I think that sometimes woodworkers have been greatly influenced by RUclips contributors and feel the need to spend tons of time sharpening instead of woodworking. I have never understood the reason going above an 8000 grit stone to get a perfectly sharp edge for most woodworking. I tend to now watch Paul Sellers as my guiding light, down to earth, very experienced and very well respected.
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment. I used to sharpen to only 8000 grit and then strop. I will say that I don't see much of a difference vs 16000 grit stone. The 8000 grit does a good job and I use that most of the time to save wear on the Sharpton stone
I’ve been using the veritas low angle Jack for a couple of years. Really high quality but… 1 that single adjuster is easy to knock out of square when you are spinning for depth. 2 Having the lock for the mouth on the front handle is troublesome . Easy to unlock when you are in difficult grain.
PM-V11 is quite difficult to sharpen. If you're just putting tiny micro-bevels on the blade right out of the box, not too bad, but try and regrind the primary bevel and you'll be there for quite a long time.
I thought on a bevel up blade, you don't need to add the bevel to the back of the blade as only the top is cutting. You could add a secondary bevel to the top bevel. But I'm perhaps wrong.
Another viewer asked a similar question. He suggested that I flatten the entire back of the blade instead of the ruler trick. The back bevel or flattening is to give you 2 polished surfaces for cutting. If you don't do either one the blade will not produce clean shavings. Thanks for leaving feedback and watching
hi, thank you for this information. i recently ordered Veritas low angle 62 recently with 3 spare blades -toothed, 38 degree n 50 degree for twisted grain to avoid tearout. The main reason i choose Veritas over other low angle planes is the screw adjustment on the sides. Can't wait to get my hands on this tool. hope it arrive soon. Its quite difficult to achieve a free tearout planing with just standard angle jack planes. hence, the decision to try low angle planes. Hope it works !!!
I've used their Jack Plane for a few years and it will easily flatten a board where as only sanding with an orbital and a hand sanding block does not do so a Jack Plane really help shape the work piece but the Jack Plane is a lot bigger than their Smooth or Smoother Planes. It removes more material so the Jack isn't really a sander replacement option but it is a must have tool. Now these smooth planes they also have blades that are 25, 38 and 50 degree blades for different wood hardness, and if you need a camber on these blades than you can make it happen with the MKII deluxe honing guide. You can get very sophisticated. One thing that it appears works too is to put the primary bevel on the blade, than the secondary bevel and than flatten the back of the blade at the very end and it won't corrupt the secondary bevel.
@@cannonwoodworking5917 They use the same 2 1/4 inch wide blade. The jointer has holes for attaching a fence, you can get the rods separately and the fence but it is a super long plane and the space opening for the blade mouth detaches from the sole on the jointer plane but not the Jack Plane. The Skew Rabbet planes (RH and LH) and the Skew Block Plane (RH and LH) seem to be unique items, the Jack Rabbet is also unique, it allows you do do deeper rabbet joints because of the rear handle adjustment plus wider than the Skew Jacks, and it has a fence which might be the same fence as the Skew Rabbet planes, not sure but it looks the same. I could find out. I myself only have the non skew block plane because at the time the skew's have been sold out whenever I was interested...plus the expense.
Oh I see, the #7 Jointer Plane is not the same Jointer as the Veritas Jointer Plane. Yeah I also see the Veritas Shooting Grip attaches to the #7 Jointer. They have that Shooting Board there too at the store.
Just a quick observation, your planing wrong, your not putting enough downward pressure on the front tote and putting too much downward pressure on the rear handle, that’s why your stuttering when planing, I cant see it but I think your body posture is wrong. Also try to put more pressure on the front tote at the beginning of the wood and on the end but loosen it a litlle in the middle of the board, if you have a constant pressure during planing your boards wil become concave. Oh yeah nice video, keep them coming
As per a wiser woodworker than I: "I avoid the Ruler Trick like the plague! The RT was designed for blade backs that are old, pitted and too much effort to get flat. David Charlesworth was inspired in this regard. BUT for BU planes they are a big no-no if you sharpen and maintain blades as I do. The thing is that I strop my BU blades as I work to maintain the edge as much as possible. You cannot strop the bevel face with the secondary bevel (I just do not have the hand- and eye skills of Superman to maintain the angle that is on the microbevel ). So all one is left with is the back of the blade, and it you add a microbevel there (in the form of the RT), then you cannot strop the back either."
@chrishoffmann5208 thank you for watching and leaving feedback. I have had no issues with the stone or windex. Paul sellers uses windex when sharpening and that is where I got that from.
Not connecting the title with the video as I was expecting a comparison of this plane to others. No question Veritas is a premium brand, perhaps THE premium brand (I think so). Maybe it’s just the promise of the title that’s the issue.
Video is a little overexposed as well. When you are planing, the shooting board on the far side of your bench shows up as almost white; it no longer has the texture of plywood. Your right index finger loses texture as well.
I typically only use the ruler "trick" when there's pitting on the cutting edge .... this being a high dollar plane I assume it would be very simple to flatten the back.... nice plane
@@cannonwoodworking5917 Following up on what Tim Jones mentioned, gain is essentially the volume. You are getting "clipping" where when you talk, you are overloading the microphone and it distorts. Easiest fix is to increase distance between you and the microphone. Another option is to lower the gain/volume of your microphone on whatever device you are recording with - but increasing the distance between the sound and the microphone is usually sufficient to start. Another quick tip, don't forget to add a touch of a neutral wax (like bees wax) to the underside of the plane - it really helps those smoothing planes glide like glass. LV/Veritas makes some quality stuff. I have their router plane and it is great for cleaning up dados and shoulders (among other things). You should try the Veritas vs. the #4 smoothing plane on something that has some swirls/figure/cross grain, or end grain. That would be a good comparison to see where it really shines!
@@AlCapwndYou Ok thank you for the feedback. I really need to get a microphone and improve my recording overall. That is a good idea to do a video comparing 2 different planes. I think I will try that
I think that sometimes woodworkers have been greatly influenced by RUclips contributors and feel the need to spend tons of time sharpening instead of woodworking. I have never understood the reason going above an 8000 grit stone to get a perfectly sharp edge for most woodworking. I tend to now watch Paul Sellers as my guiding light, down to earth, very experienced and very well respected.
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment. I used to sharpen to only 8000 grit and then strop. I will say that I don't see much of a difference vs 16000 grit stone. The 8000 grit does a good job and I use that most of the time to save wear on the Sharpton stone
I’ve been using the veritas low angle Jack for a couple of years. Really high quality but… 1 that single adjuster is easy to knock out of square when you are spinning for depth. 2 Having the lock for the mouth on the front handle is troublesome . Easy to unlock when you are in difficult grain.
Here is my latest video. Be sure to check it out
ruclips.net/video/3PIyz-uG8Ak/видео.html
PM-V11 is quite difficult to sharpen. If you're just putting tiny micro-bevels on the blade right out of the box, not too bad, but try and regrind the primary bevel and you'll be there for quite a long time.
Thank you for watching and leaving feedback.
Be sure to check out my review of the Harvey Alpha series table saw
ruclips.net/video/O_n6GVmPGEQ/видео.html
I thought on a bevel up blade, you don't need to add the bevel to the back of the blade as only the top is cutting. You could add a secondary bevel to the top bevel. But I'm perhaps wrong.
Another viewer asked a similar question. He suggested that I flatten the entire back of the blade instead of the ruler trick. The back bevel or flattening is to give you 2 polished surfaces for cutting. If you don't do either one the blade will not produce clean shavings. Thanks for leaving feedback and watching
hi, thank you for this information. i recently ordered Veritas low angle 62 recently with 3 spare blades -toothed, 38 degree n 50 degree for twisted grain to avoid tearout. The main reason i choose Veritas over other low angle planes is the screw adjustment on the sides. Can't wait to get my hands on this tool. hope it arrive soon.
Its quite difficult to achieve a free tearout planing with just standard angle jack planes. hence, the decision to try low angle planes. Hope it works !!!
Thank you for watching the video and the compliment. The planes from veritas are awesome. I hope you enjoy the hand plane.
I've used their Jack Plane for a few years and it will easily flatten a board where as only sanding with an orbital and a hand sanding block does not do so a Jack Plane really help shape the work piece but the Jack Plane is a lot bigger than their Smooth or Smoother Planes. It removes more material so the Jack isn't really a sander replacement option but it is a must have tool. Now these smooth planes they also have blades that are 25, 38 and 50 degree blades for different wood hardness, and if you need a camber on these blades than you can make it happen with the MKII deluxe honing guide. You can get very sophisticated. One thing that it appears works too is to put the primary bevel on the blade, than the secondary bevel and than flatten the back of the blade at the very end and it won't corrupt the secondary bevel.
Ok thanks for the feedback. I'll try that next time. I thinking of getting the jack plane or the no.7 jointer
@@cannonwoodworking5917 They use the same 2 1/4 inch wide blade. The jointer has holes for attaching a fence, you can get the rods separately and the fence but it is a super long plane and the space opening for the blade mouth detaches from the sole on the jointer plane but not the Jack Plane. The Skew Rabbet planes (RH and LH) and the Skew Block Plane (RH and LH) seem to be unique items, the Jack Rabbet is also unique, it allows you do do deeper rabbet joints because of the rear handle adjustment plus wider than the Skew Jacks, and it has a fence which might be the same fence as the Skew Rabbet planes, not sure but it looks the same. I could find out. I myself only have the non skew block plane because at the time the skew's have been sold out whenever I was interested...plus the expense.
Oh I see, the #7 Jointer Plane is not the same Jointer as the Veritas Jointer Plane. Yeah I also see the Veritas Shooting Grip attaches to the #7 Jointer. They have that Shooting Board there too at the store.
Just a quick observation, your planing wrong, your not putting enough downward pressure on the front tote and putting too much downward pressure on the rear handle, that’s why your stuttering when planing, I cant see it but I think your body posture is wrong. Also try to put more pressure on the front tote at the beginning of the wood and on the end but loosen it a litlle in the middle of the board, if you have a constant pressure during planing your boards wil become concave. Oh yeah nice video, keep them coming
"Your" should be you're, there is no front tote, only a a rear tote and front knob.
According to the Lee Valley/ Veritas website the totes are made from torrified maple not walnut.
Ok thanks for the info
As per a wiser woodworker than I:
"I avoid the Ruler Trick like the plague! The RT was designed for blade backs that are old, pitted and too much effort to get flat. David Charlesworth was inspired in this regard. BUT for BU planes they are a big no-no if you sharpen and maintain blades as I do.
The thing is that I strop my BU blades as I work to maintain the edge as much as possible. You cannot strop the bevel face with the secondary bevel (I just do not have the hand- and eye skills of Superman to maintain the angle that is on the microbevel ). So all one is left with is the back of the blade, and it you add a microbevel there (in the form of the RT), then you cannot strop the back either."
Ok thank you for commenting and watching the video. I will try that out on another plane iron
I just got a shapton stone and was just wondering how long youve been using windex with it and if you have had any issues with it ? Thanks
@chrishoffmann5208 thank you for watching and leaving feedback. I have had no issues with the stone or windex. Paul sellers uses windex when sharpening and that is where I got that from.
@@cannonwoodworking5917 thanks for the reply. I use windex as well with my diamond stones but didn't know if it would cause issues with the shapton
Not connecting the title with the video as I was expecting a comparison of this plane to others. No question Veritas is a premium brand, perhaps THE premium brand (I think so). Maybe it’s just the promise of the title that’s the issue.
Thank you for watching and leaving feedback. I'll tweek the title a bit
Hola much desde it cost?
About $240
Video is a little overexposed as well. When you are planing, the shooting board on the far side of your bench shows up as almost white; it no longer has the texture of plywood. Your right index finger loses texture as well.
(Turn the gain down for future reference). Is the back bevel necessary for a low angle plane?
What is the gain? The back bevel is less than 1 degree. It eliminates having to polish the entire back of the plane iron
I typically only use the ruler "trick" when there's pitting on the cutting edge .... this being a high dollar plane I assume it would be very simple to flatten the back.... nice plane
@@cannonwoodworking5917 the gain on your mic. It’s a bit ‘hot’. Hopefully there’s somewhere to turn it down.
@@cannonwoodworking5917 Following up on what Tim Jones mentioned, gain is essentially the volume. You are getting "clipping" where when you talk, you are overloading the microphone and it distorts. Easiest fix is to increase distance between you and the microphone. Another option is to lower the gain/volume of your microphone on whatever device you are recording with - but increasing the distance between the sound and the microphone is usually sufficient to start.
Another quick tip, don't forget to add a touch of a neutral wax (like bees wax) to the underside of the plane - it really helps those smoothing planes glide like glass.
LV/Veritas makes some quality stuff. I have their router plane and it is great for cleaning up dados and shoulders (among other things). You should try the Veritas vs. the #4 smoothing plane on something that has some swirls/figure/cross grain, or end grain. That would be a good comparison to see where it really shines!
@@AlCapwndYou Ok thank you for the feedback. I really need to get a microphone and improve my recording overall. That is a good idea to do a video comparing 2 different planes. I think I will try that
The plane isn't exactly the same as shown on the box. Look at the screws in the tote.