2006-2010 Ford Fusion: Intermittent Loss of Brakes
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- **UPDATE** Ford now has a Recall for this concern, please reference FSA 19S54 when contacting dealer personal.
In this video I go over the main reason these car have low or soft brake pedals at times and how I narrowed it down to the HCU.
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***UPDATE*** Ford now has a Recall for this concern, please reference FSA 19S54 when contacting dealer personal.
FordTechMakuloco I am have a similar problem with my 2011 Ford Focus were the brake pedal is not as hard as it used to be, the ABS light stays on with the Anti-Skid light and the brake light comes one after a 1/4 of driving. It also says check the brake system. Does the focus and fusion share the same abs parts and where should I start my investigation of the possible source of my problem?
Great video - thank you so much! This describes the issue that I'm seeing on my 2010 Ford Fusion almost to the tee. However, my VIN number isn't showing up in the recall notice. Any suggestions? Thx!!
Now there is also NHTSA Recall 19V-904. This video perfectly explains the result. Well done. The logic and explanation are spot on for the cause of this issue. Thank you.
Same problem on my 2008 Ford Focus SES 2.0L. I’ve kind of fixed it a few times with a power bleed via my scan tool. This time it didn’t work. Unfortunately the Focus isn’t listed under the recall. I’m tempted to mail my bad part to the Agency conducting the investigation in order to help others out by adding my vehicle to the recall.
I’m curious why I don’t get an ABS light and no ABS codes. This weekend I’m gonna try and check wheel sensors but probably a waste of time.
This guy knows what he's taking about. New master cylinder cost me £400 on a UK Fiesta Mk7 2009 with no difference ! It was the abs / esp valve. Wish I'd seen this video first !
Ran into two issues in the last two months on a edge and a escape, I sent both of my customers this video, thank you for explaining a very frustrating issue.
You NAILED it! Great description, dialogue and explanation. 2009 Fusion, early build, 75,000 miles. Exactly the issue. Bought a low mileage used unit (internally still had fluid), did a bench bleed, and a line bleed at the attachment points. I was lucky and did not need the ABS service bleed. 16 months now, and issue has not resurfaced. Less than $100 in parts and materials. Whew! Thanks again.......
you are one of the best mechanics ive seen.most shops would never take the time to properly diagnose this issue
I don't like to guess that's for sure, this stuff is expensive.
Yup..... exactly. Thank you, I am a technician.... not an automotive technician, I work on million dollar machines with hydraulic and pneumatic control systems. I suspected this was my problem the first time it happened but you sir are the first person I was able to find that concurred with my suspicion. Dealers are worthless since they refuse to make an effort to recreate the scenario that brings on the problem.
FWIW.... I own a 2012 Ford Edge and have googled a great number of fellow owners with the same problem, so Ford is most definitely aware of the issue with their HCU unit.
Thank you. Very helpful video. Our 2009 Ford Fusion has had two such events recently. The first took place in August 2016 when driving on a wet road. This week (November 2016) it occurred on a perfect dry road with a moderately hard stop. In both cases, the ABS activated and then immediately after that we lost almost all breaking ability. It nearly caused an accident. Things did eventually return to a slightly soft but usable level after turning the car off and restarting, then pumping the brakes hard a number of times. I took the car to the local dealership after the second event. They tested the entire braking system and could find nothing wrong with it. When I mentioned the known issue with the ABS/HCU, they told me they could replace the HCU if I wanted, but it would cost $1,400-1,500. This is a very scary situation. You never know when your brakes are going to fail. Why won't Ford do something to fix this? I found a link to the NHTSA and plan to file a complaint.
B. B
Love how you show us the Hyrdaulic Schematic, really helps me wrap my head around the why. 10/10 would sub again if I could.
+DoomsdayMelody91 I figured it would help.
Yes it can be replaced separately and no you don't have to reprogram it. I worked at ford 30 years
John you're wrong, the module needs to be programmed to the VIN of the vehicle when replacing the module. The HCU can be swapped out with no programming, been there DONE THAT
I bought a 2008 Ford Fusion for my daughter and it is doing the same thing. We’ve replaced brakes, rotors, calipers and the master cylinder. It still demonstrates as this video explains. Ford dealers state there is no open recalls or warranty enhancements on her VIN. I ended up putting in a complaint with the NHTSA. I hope they do something for us. Thank you for the video, it was very informative.
this is by far the best explanation for this issue.
I've heard others mention stuck valves but it just didn't understand why that would cause a soft pedal. it's a sealed hydraulic system, if no air then the pedal shouldn't sink regardless of what the ABS unit is doing.
the accumulators explain everything
I just had recall/warranty work done on my 2009 Fusion concerning HCU recall 19S54. I never had a braking problem before but had the recall work done at a Ford dealer. My brakes are now soft and the pedal nearly hits the floorboard to get the car to slow down. Supposedly tge HCU passed and they flushed the system and added new Dot 3 fluid and filled cap. It is going back to the dealer.
Same with my 2010 sport.. Did they offer any solutions?
@@Opallovers I returned my car to the dealer and they retested brake component in question and it tested as non-conforming and subject to recall. Part was ordered and eventually was installed and my braking has improved greatly.
same thing happened to me. They replaced then 3 moths later failed. Fault code now it says its the abs ecu which isnt covered under the recall(even though i believe it was installed with the new hcu in one piece.
I dont have the weak brake problem, but I recently got an ABS fault code B1342 on my 09 Lincoln MKZ w/86,000 miles. I started my car up after stopping in a place and I got a check brake system warning, accompanied by my trac control/abs/parking brake warning lights coming on. Took it to a shop and I got that code B1342. They diagnosed it to the ABS module and it sucks because its going to cost around $800 plus whatever it costs to get the new module re-flashed. Seems like a bad design for this to just go out. Its weird though because there is literally no change to how the car drives. I will update when I get the module replaced.
NHTSA is FINALLY investigating this. They started in 2016 and ramped it up in April. A recall should hopefully be coming soon.
Any updates on a recall?
Any updates?
Hey Raymond, have you seen any updates on this? Just got my master cylinder replaced 🤬
No updates yet. You all can google it for yourself too y'know?
I know someone having this issue with her 2010 Milan. Unfortunately its just out of the recall numbers and the dealerships are giving her the runaround. Wanting to charge her for a diagnosis and bring in the car. First off, she cant drive it, and second, cant afford that or to just throw parts at it. Having already changed the master, and this occurring after she had to slam on her brakes, its pretty explicitly obvious what is happening. According to the recall page, Ford blames it on DOT 3 fluid ruining the valve components? and suggest switching to DOT 4 after the fix? That's a pathetic excuse. We have been using DOT 3 since before I was born. We know which materials it will affect or not. My 91 gt still scoots and stops just fine, from the ancient past when everything wasnt made by the lowest bidder sitting just outside of quality controls reach. They just need to accept responsibility and replace the parts. Its going to be ALL of them. But ford is letting it happen one by one and leaving individuals without a clue to sort it out. Not having a car right now can literally ruin somebodies career/income/current life and she is lucky she has help, but cant do this for long. I cant find any source online guaranteeing the part you get will not just do the same thing. Does anybody who has been through this process have any advice on getting this done? She has been juggling cars for over two weeks now just trying to figure out what the **** to do. Extremely disappointed with any cars on the road which have been made after 2004. But especially ford. Honestly about to machine a hydraulic split block and just bypass this BS, she needs her car
Excellent video!! I've been searching for an answer on this problem since it seemed to happen randomly on my wife's 2006 Ford Escape. I called her after watching this video and she confirmed that she had hit a bump in the road when the pedal went to the floor. Then she recalled a certain road where this happens frequently.
Thank you so much for posting this! Last weekend I experienced this issue with my 2012 Ford Fusion. Upon making a turn at a very slow speed, I wanted to brake a little to make the turn, but the pedal went down to the floor without slowing. Yet, moments later when I was parking the car, the car stopped fine and there was no brake issue. It was not wet or icy, but it was cold, and I am not certain if there were pot holes that I may have gone over -- as the roads have a lot of them this time of year in particular. I didn't think much of it because the car stopped fine when I parked and the brake felt ok.
Later in the morning, after driving a bit and making another stop, where the car was parked without incident, I was coming to a light and had taken my foot off the gas and was coasting at slow speed, but when I put on the brake to stop, the same thing happened -- the pedal was "soft" and I pushed again as hard as I could but it went to the floor and didn't stop, causing me to hit the back of a car stopped in front of me at the light. Again, there were likely some bumps in the road or potholes but it was not ice. I am trying to think of what would have caused one or more of the wheels to be not level and cause the ABS incident you described -- and it is most likely just rough roads.There was definitely something wrong, though the auto body shop working on external body repairs hasn't been able to duplicate the situation on gravel as yet.
You noted that this is something seen in the second generation of Fusions from 2008 - 2012, but it had not been a subject for recall as Ford considers it to be parts that are subject to wear and tear over time.
This isn't something I would really expect for a 2012 model as it isn't that old and only had approximately 34,000 miles on the car. It had just been serviced earlier in the week for an oil change and tire rotation and routine check, and nothing was noted. I don't want to drive this car when it comes back from the body work. It is under warranty, and has cost me quite a lot in time and money already since it resulted in an accident. It actually could have resulted in a lot worse had no car been in front of me and I had gone through the light into oncoming traffic.
Can you tell me if a mechanic can look at the car and see if this HCU needs to be replaced -- like if looking at the part visually shows that it is bad? Are the 2013-15 models having this problem too, or has the HCU been improved?
I am amazed that there has not been a recall given that others with Fusions of various years have had the same problem, and it is a safety concern not just for me but likely for many other Fusion owners.
THANK YOU!
+NJMOM2X2 My Mercury Milan had the same thing go wrong. My friend put his scan tool on the car and went to the ABS section on his scan tool and did he re bleed the system and after that my Brakes worked fine after that.
Question for Brian: Can this "event" occur, then the HCU starts working properly again?? My son had TWO wrecks in my 2008 Fusion and he swears that the car was stopping fine (under hard braking) then suddenly it 'lost' the ability to slow down. I explained to him that the ABS system would kick-in and allow the wheels to 'slip' to prevent a total locking-up of the wheels. What he said next puzzled me: "Dad, why was I stopping faster BEFORE the ABS kicked in? Shouldn't it stop FASTER once the ABS engaged?"
I wired the car back together to get it home, and the brake seemed fine.
To add salt to the wound, we got a recall notice from Ford the day of the second wreck! The recall reads as follows:
"On your vehicle, a chemical reaction between aged DOT 3 brake fluid and the zinc plating inside your hydraulic control unit (HCU) may result in a gel formation, which may cause the HCU valve to be stuck open.
If the HCU valve is stuck open, this may result in extended brake pedal travel required to stop the vehicle, increasing the risk of a crash. The condition does not result in a loss of braking function and the vehicle can be brought to a controlled stop."
I looked online and the recall repair is to flush out the HCU with DOT 4 fluid, electronically test the HCU and replace the Master Cylinder cap that now reads DOT 4 ONLY.
I'd appreciate a reply when you get a minute.
Just like he says in the video, its intermittant. The valve "unsticks" and breaking returns to normal. I like your story, my daughter was in a fender bender in my 08 5 years ago. She said the same thing. I found out during an ice storm we had 2 years ago, she wasnt making it up after all. Went to the floor, wouldnt stop!
Thanks SOOO much for this! After seeing your explanation, I'm now 99% sure this is what's happening to my truck. Had just about everything in the brake system replace (including the MC) except for the ABS. But it fits my symptoms exaclty, spongy but not all the way to the floor.
Lol, I removed the headlight and hit the hydraulic control unit a couple times til it acted right (with a hammer while running ) the vibrations must’ve freed the valve. Btw this was after I did a full brake flush with new brake fluid and removed any air bubbles. I’m not paying $500, brake indicator went away too :)
hydraulic control unit failed no pressure to front left caliper after abs event and brake pedal going to the floor. Replaced hydraulic control module by keeping the original abs module and fitted to the replacement control unit as I think it's programed to the car. My car probably would have been beyond economical repair in a shop. You really have helped me with these informative tips and great videos. Ford Falcon back on the road thanks Brian from down under Australia Vic
There is a common ABS pump malfunction for European Fords where the brakes bind/lock-up after depressing the brake pedal. This is said to be due to internal component failure of the ABS, caused by a manufacturing defect, which will prevent the brake calipers from releasing. I am not certain what the root cause of the brake lock-up malfunction is, but in a sense this could be the opposite of your problem so rather than both valves being open simultaneously, both valves would be closed simultaneously. I am not aware of a recall for this fault, but several companies (e.g. ECU Testing in the UK) will rebuild your ABS unit to fix the malfunction.
As usual, Brian is spot on. Why do techs fix things that common sense should scream otherwise. I believe a master cylinder would be a problem every time a person brakes or at least very often. Ford Edge 2012 is having this problem. We'll see what the tech wants to do. I'm tempted to have them commit to a full refund if they're wrong and let them do the Master Cylinder. Then pay for the real problem. Two repairs for the price of one. But, we won't do that.
Just watched this after several months of my 2011 Ford Fiesta doing the exact same thing. Usually after a few days the brakes will go back to normal. But like you explained in the video if I hit a rough patch as I brake the pedal goes to floor. Makes perfect sense to me now. Thanks
This is a Great video! Thank you! My 08 milan has the exact symptoms. I took it to my local dealer, they did the dot 4 fluid change, but would not replace the hcu. The symptoms still exist during a panic stop, its super dangerous. From what I read techs only drive it on the dealership grounds and check for pedal travel, then run scantool. How can they know if they dont actually simulate a panic stop? The service writer at my dealer told me they cant get parts anyway, and said to look in a junkyard! To replace a recalled part with another!
FINALLY! I have had this on my Chevrolet HHR and this is the first well thought out solution I have found. EXCELLENT JOB!
2009 Fusion, 140,000 Miles. ABS event 1 month ago, ABS went into Fred Flintstone mode. Your info nailed it. Got all parts + strut parts from your earlier vid. $1000.00 invested in Ford parts. Went to several local mechanics, would not touch the job due to Fusion needing dealer reprogrammed(?) Dealership here wants $160.00 Hr (1-3 hr) and still balking at the thought of bringing my parts. The question is, what programming is needed AND CAN I do the programming w/o the $1800 dongle?
+lmgk77II Fred flintstone mode that too funny. If you are only replacing the HCU then all they need to do is an ABS service bleed on the system which take 5 minutes.
yes these hydraulic control units are known for failing but before you go through the expense and the time of replacing this try bleeding the brakes with the car running that's what works for me about 95% of the time
I was thinking ABS when you started explaining the problem at the beginning. You taught me good so far.
Dude, thanks a million. I went through everything. Master cylinder, pads and rotors, brake lines, even suspected I had glazed my new pads and rotors. After it happened again last night, while it was raining pretty hard, I'm pretty sure this is the culprit.
How did you make out ultimately? Was that the problem?
It actually only happens when abs is activated and then goes away shortly after. So my hypothesis is that the HCU sticks and then slowly closes to allow brake fluid pressure to return to normal. Hopefully it doesn't become more consistent, as a 600-800 part doesn't seem to agree with my checking account. Lol.
Strizzy Streets
Thanks. Yours sounds like it's the problem in the vid. If you can live with it than I suppose its OK.
Thanks again tho man, I had racked my brain trying to figure it out for a while, but when I saw your video I knew that was what the situation most likely was. I'm no mechanic, but I would like to have a decent idea about what's going on with my vehicles, less I bring my car to a garage and let them tell me whatever they want. Lol
This just happened to me in my '08 Escape. I hit some black ice and the Anti-lock engaged and now the pedal goes to the floor. I have to pump the pedal now before stopping to get any good braking. Thanks Brian. Going to need a video from you on replacing this.
My 2011 Fusion has sometimes problem with weak brakes - It's not weak enough to feel it during normal driving conditions, but when I want to brake more aggresively or when trying to emergency brake. It feels like for the half of the pedal is ok (it brakes normally) but everything beyond that makes no difference on stopping power. It looks like it is on "cold car", and goes away after one strong braking, especially when ABS is kicking in. After that my brakes are very good - every time, effortless to stop. Is this related to that? It does sounds like anything with brake booster (I performed common test already, no issues), master cylinder (intermittent pressure? I don't buy that), brake lines or air in the system (it would be weak all the times). Any ideas?
Thank you Brian! I bought a 2011 Fusion a few months ago without knowing about this issue and have noticed for a while. I searched online and closest thing to an answer I found was the brake master cylinder. Really appreciate the info.
I have a 2010 Fusion Sport and am getting a B1342 code and a check brake system, service advancetrac light and message on cluster. I have ran the abs test and cleared the code, but the code comes back instantly. All the wheel speed sensors are reading. What else can I test prior to replacing the ABS module??
Brilliant advice that the general public definitely won't find anywhere else.
Thanks again Makuloco!
Five thousand ***********************************************************stars!
watershed44 Thanks
I have a 2010 and I know for sure that my car has this issue. I’ve also got the recall letter. But my question is , could this be the culprit that makes my TCS / ABS / Brake lights on the dash activate at about 15mph ? Sometimes the lights are on without me even driving.
Makes me cautious driving this car during the rain because most of the time I don’t have ABS when driving around.
Nice explanation. That pretty much confirms my suspicions regarding the brakes on my 05 Super Duty. Something I need to look into.
Thanks!
Investing into the part is not a concern of mine however, what is one is that I invest into this repair and within a short amount of time I find myself having to make the same repair. So, will this be a one time repair or will I need to periodically do this throughout my vehicles' life span? And of course if I were to invest into this it would be with a new HCU module.
Mine does this if braking hard over a large bump or going thru a dip. Don't lose all brake but down to like 10%. Never returns to normal unless I find a parking lot to reverse and then slam on brakes hard. Guys at shops say this is not possible(only on old drum brakes) but only thing that fixes it. Any thoughts???
May be you have some brake pad which doesn't slide or doesn't fit well into a caliper.
Overall very nice educational video explaining the Ford issue, abs brakes in general and bleeding procedure involved
That was VERY helpful! I think that's the exact problem. I'll get it checked out next week.
I just bought this car in March and my brakes are already giving me issues...... grrrr
I'm having the same issue of low brake pedal but still able to stop on my 2005 Scion xB.
I changed the rear brake cylinders, adjusted the shoes, and installed new springs. I service the front calipers. I bled, bled then bled the brakes again. I figured it must be the master cylinder. Changed that but still the same issue. I even ordered a new brake booster knowing that couldn't be the problem.
It wasn't till I tested the abs by locking up the brakes and realized I had no abs that my mind turned to the abs system.
My 2009 XLS Escape is doing it again... This is ridiculous. Only has 30K miles on it. Garage kept. I have a vacuum device and thought about flushing out that old brake fluid but not sure if worth the aggravation, I have the scan tool with auto bleed function too. ... FORD needs to repair these faulty units.
Thank you. I just traded my explorer for a new 2015 hyundai sonata. No more brake problem.
What scan tool? which brand of software do you use to program the HCU? if the valves are not fully stuck is it possible to disconnect the ABS from the battery and take the HCU apart clean the valves inside with brake cleaner before they stick open or shut? and can this HCU problem keep brake fluid from bleding out the rear wheel bleeder?
Thanks, Brian, for the concise and informative video. 01 S10 x2 Mc replacements/warranty swaps and I still have a sinking pedal until the last 20% of travel. I'm Confident calipers and wheel cylinders are bled with uncontaminated brake fluid and all slaves move freely as intended. The pedal sinks 100% of the time, not just during an abs event. Is it possible, maybe I misunderstood the failure mode/conditions details, that an abs event left a valve stuck open permanently resulting in this consistent sinking brake pedal?
-james
I have a 2008 Ford Fusion, my breaks either go all the way to the ground or they become very stiff. I've had new breaks put on my car and still have the same issues took it to Dick Smith Ford in Raytown TWICE just to hear nothing is wrong. No lights have popped up on my dash and other wise the car runs great. What do I do???
+Nyeesha Rushing-Brooks For the low brake concern especially that year I would replace the HCU as it is very common and intermittent.
2009 mkx in the shop today ...same problem. Grrr!
Changed the ABS module, master cylinder, break booster and ran computer to run the ABS while bleeding the brakes several times with no luck. Still soft pedal. Checked all the calibers. I'm lost for what it could be???
I believe this is the problem with my 2010 Milan, but I’m curious as to why I had low fluid in my reservoir after my ABS event of slamming on my brakes in traffic. Could the ABS module leak?
Thanks for the video! Have this issue with an '08 Lincoln MKZ. Very glad I found this info and could pass it on to the mechanic.
That’s also a problem on 2013 MKX, 62.000 miles, ask me how I know ! $736.00 just for the part,
we got a recall notice for a 2009 Fusion. wife took it to the local ford dealer and the "mechanic" said "since the ABS light was on, he would have to fix that first, before he can run his diagnostic test. " The fix would cost $800, which I assume would be replacing the bad HCU. Then and only then, he can run his test to see if the HCU is working.
I call BS, since the KNOWN problem is the HCU and that is what the recall is for, we shouldn't have to pay for the replacement part before he can "check" the system.
thank you for the info been racking our brain multiple calipers on rear drivers side
Can't say I seen this but Thanks a lot for the info Brian..
I would imagine the Milan would be the same?
Great tutorial on complex issue. Got my recall 19S54 completed! dont wait if you havent! Brian , Is there a vid or others report recurring/repeated failure of Motocraft Rear ABS sensor ? (rear wheel abs sensor goes bad c1276 within 600miles/8weeks after replaced w OEM Motorcraft at dealer) after 3rd sensor failed, also replaced HUB assy (includes tone ring and bearing) still c1276! with dealer provided 3rd Motorcraft wheel speed sensor. Traction control also affected, so power loss when merging /low speed right turns occurs when ABS is out due to c1276. this doesn't occur when sensor is working ( during first few weeks after each replacement.)
Relates to 2006 -2009 gen zepher , fusion, MK, milan.
My brakes go out and then come back. It happens when it's hot
I think it is the pressure sensor on the power booster. My vehicle is a 2009 Escape Hybrid.
When bleeding the HCU with the scan tool, does it open both isolation and dump valves concurrently to force hydraulic fluid through both paths and push air towards the calipers? If so, should the caliper nearest to the HCU have the bleeder valve open to allow fluid to move easily through the HCU and air to move to the caliper bleeder value with little to no resistance?
I know this is old, but question. Why can't the valves be unstuck? Like cycling it with a scan tool and running some cleaner or something through the unit. Is it a hang-up, caused by varnish, or just complete mechanical valve failure? Just some thoughts, thanks
ive seen this on a trailblazer too, i think its caused by really dirty brake fluid trapped in the hcu, normal brake flush doesnt get it out, have to use a scan tool , but that would be just as a preventative
srv3fender It can be caused but that yes but this is a flaw in design that make these more common. I have seen lots of cars with horrible brake fluid and no abs valve problems and this one had nice clean fluid in it.
Can you just replace the mechanical pump part or do I need to do both mechanical and electrical? Even the one part is 1100 for the whole thing.
Also is there a way to confirm it's the abs module v. The master cylinder? Mine are also intermittent so I figured that was the deciding factor?
Great video. My 2009 Escape has this same problem. I am going to try a vacuum flush with new DOT 4 brake fluid.
Does ABS light come on?? I yot a 2010 in now dual rear grinder...dors scanner show this outlet valve stuck and code , my fusion wont bleed anywhere really barley get lf/rr..its getting a Master cylinder
Can you please post a Ford Service Bleed Procedure, and tell us which inexpensive scan tools have this capability for do it yourself ears? Thanks
going through this issue on a 2009 flex, will be installing a used hcu. hope it works.
Aren't the new unit HCU's defective also? Isn't this a design flaw? Why would a new one not act the same way as an older one?
please, recommend scantool for ABS bleeding on 2001 Ford Focus.
hello! very good video and spotless explanation! my 2001 Ford Focus having same isssue, that ABS valve(s) stuck open, so spongy break pedal. I'm sure, there is a good service tool to bleed the ABS unit. but which one?
Fantastic expert analysis and the perfect explanation...THANKS
I have similar issue on a 2013 3.5 L Edge. Front pads are a year old and rears just changed 2 weeks ago System has been bled 20 times or more Master cylinder has been changed 5 times, Brake Booster has been changed ABS pump has been changed with used one from junk yard since I can't afford $900 to buy new one from Ford. Yet the pedal is still soft and goes almost all the way to the floor. It has been to 3 different shops now and nobody can fix this issue. Please Help!!!!
Hello, thanks for the good video. Is it possible for the ABS module to work with only one speed sensor? Actually, I am a student and I want to present the operation of ABS with a single tire and a brake unit using a single speed sensor.
I'm just wondering what happens if you block off the abs
Nice tip and explanation...you're the man Brian!
Thanks a lot for this! I have a 2009 Escape with the same issue, and I always tought it could be related to ABS, because it happend every time I went to a hard break on a bad floor. It got back to normal after a few pumps. Unfortunately, last time it never got back to normal.
Now I have to deal with this problem, knowing that it's gonna be almost impossible to find a brand new hydraulic control unit where I live.
But also, I'm really grateful with you for sharing your knowledge. Your videos have always helped me fix any issue with my truck, and I'll always be in debt with you.
Greetings from Morelia, Mexico!
And of course, thank you!
Is this the same system problem on European C-Max?? Looks like exactly the same ABS/ESP module?? Recall on European C-Max too??
Have a 2011 fusion replaced a master cylinder and abs module assembly. Programed the abs module, bled the system with scan tool multiple times. Finally got some pressure from right rear and left feont but noting on right feont or left rear. Bled some more and now jave no pressure at any wheel. Any suggestions?
I am having this exact problem. Local brakes place diagnosing as bad master cylinder. Got second opinion from dealership after finding this information online. They say master cylinder seal is bad and is leaking into brake booster. Brake fluid level is good. Not sure I trust them given all the info I have read online surrounding this issue. My ultimate question is, is it safe if I do not replace the HCU and just live with the difference in brake pedal feel? Based on your diagram of the problem it would seem like this problem shouldn't suddenly result in complete loss of brakes, it is more about a difference in pedal feel compared to with a fully functional HCU.
i did everything possible. change the abs pump change the master cylinder bleed the brakes and still pedal goes all the down to the floor and doesnt harden at all. no leaks in the lines and no fluid loss. what could possibly be? 2011 ford fusion
The best way to do this is to block off one port at the master cylinder at a time to isolate the front or rear. Then go right after the brake hoses to make sure they are not ballooning. One thing to check is has there been any recent brake work in the rear like pads and rotors?
FordTechMakuloco it has brand new front caliber and rotors. i tried blocking off like you said the rubber hose at the begining of it by vise grip locking pliers with no success as that came to my mind too if its balooning
As a Ford Tech, you need to pressure bleed the brakes with over 40psi pressure, there are "high" lines that are tough to bleed
Thanks for this info. Now to get the BG flusher to hold over 30, stupid cap is leaking
I do have a low brake petal. My ABS light keeps going on and off so I don't know what's going on. The code was C1095, I have a 2008 Milan FWF I4.
I have this same unit in our 2008 Ford Escape disk's up front and drums on the rear. The pedal goes to the floor, checked all pads, shoes and master cylinder found all to be are good working condition and no leaks. Check recall on line however the Escape is not listed on the recall do you have an recent information about Ford recalling his for the Escape?
I'm guessing the ABS light doesn't come on if this issue is being incorrectly diagnosed?
+Three60Crusader no light comes on
Hi, I have a 2008 Fusion giving me soft brakes after ABS events. I was wondering two things. First, how difficult is this to change for someone with moderate home repair experience and where is it located on the car? Second, if I don't repair it can I just disable the ABS as all of my other vehicles are non-ABS anyway or will that affect other systems? Thanks so much for your time spent answering me.
+Matthew Herch Anyone with a mechanical skills can change it but it will still need to be bled by the scan tool
Hey man, thanks for your videos! Im currently struggling with a spongy brake pedal. I had a frozen caliper and I ended up replacing the caliper and the brake hose (no fluid was passing through). After replacing I Still had a spongy pedal, so I replaced the master cylinder, and have no pedal now. I have no ABS lights or codes and I was wondering if a stuck valve on the HCU, will cause an no ABS codes and loss of brakes? I’m currently thinking about replacing the HCU. Any feedback will help, thank you. I have a Ford Fusion 2010.
Are all 2008 Ford Fusions affected because I just bought one and I don't want to find out the hard way
This video describes exactly what my car was doing, I took it to my mechanic and he bled the system with his scan tool, the lines have never been opened but it somehow got air in it. It only took him five minutes and the brakes are right where they belong. Thanks
Thanks for this and all of your videos! Just got one in for this same issue!
Starting to have this problen with a 2010 Ford escape with little over 200xxxx KM .
Is there any way to reset the "HCU"? You're the only one that seems to have this problem figured out. Thank you for sharing your findings. I've had enough of Ford brake issues!
+Elstevo Mac No the valves are internal no way to even get at them.
When using the scan tool to cycle the ABS unit, do the brake bleeder valves need to be open?
This exact issue happened to me [I was lucky i didnt get into a wreck! This could cause serious injuries] and ford WONT COVER IT! They want $1200+ to fix it. I have gotten TWO recalls for it, neither stating they have the parts to fix it yet. How can you have a known issue like this for so many YEARS and not have the parts to fix it!? Guess our safety is not their top priority. My next car will NOT be a ford!
Did you ever get it resolved? I had gotten it repaired before the recall, I gave up on it when the issue persisted and lost $1.8k on it. Biggest regret. Now I'm going to go back and see if it was the same issue. I want to be refunded my money!
@@VGBNDGRL Yes, they[ford company] finally sent me a letter telling me they finally got the parts in to fix it and so i went back to ford and told them and they reimbursed my money. I would definitely pursue it, as it was not a cheap fix!
I have a similar issue with my 2009 Ford Taurus. Brake pedal sinks to the floor. Here is everything I have replaced.
Front and rear brake pads
Front and rear rotors
Bleed the breaks
Brake Master cylinder
ABS control unit
I m facing a weird issue in my Hyundai verna sx 2010 . Front passenger side breaks caliper doesn't working,break fluid not coming to this caliper from ABS motor. What can be problem ...
Thanks Brian, your content is just great. But I have a question for anybody reading this. Why after a brake pads replacement job I have a thumping on both front wheels while braking? Like if the ABS for these two is working at the pace of one thump per tire rev? (double checked everything is ok) Is it a reset or something that needs to be done afterward? No DTCs present. Thanks for sharing your experience.
When will FORD recall this?
Robert Harrison I totally agree
Today, apparently.
Now if they would just do it for 2011 and 2012s.
Currently dealing with this after a master cylinder repair
@@zacharydoebler3703 my 2011 mkz damn bullshit never buying a ford again
@@shmo3723 you can find the original NHS documents pertaining to the research into the recall. Apparently, while 2010 and 2011 are the only years that ended up officially recalled, the 2011 and 2012 were part of the original study. Lame.
Here question some videos claim if you pull the abs fuse your breaks should go back normal like they was If abs pump vs was bad kinda like fail safe thing but can you still have issue if the abs solenoid stuck open or closed even after pulling fuse ?
I have a stupid question: If the valves sticks, what can't it be un-stuck?
Great video explaining such an obscure problem. I wish I had watched this before I spent money on bleeding brake fluid and replacing master cylinder. :(
is it possible to repair it instead of purchasing a new unit? do you know why the valves stick? will cleaning the valves and ports solve the sticking valves from sticking again? thanks!
This guy makes no sense in stating a unit from another vehicle is GOING to fail. I totally disagree. He is admitting THEY ARE ALL JUNK, and that is just not true. If thats the case, there would have been a recall. No, go with one from a wrecking yard. inspect it really well first. These guys LOVE to go by the manual. I have rewritten manuals. Typical mechanic trying to sell parts.
So which part is the true failure, is it the alluminium valves or the plastics electrical control?
test drove an 07ish fusion that i was considering to buy, drove down the road just fine. took it on a highway and tested the brake, first time stopped fine, however, after i speed up and tried to brake again, pedal went straight to the floor and i got no brakes at 100kph, luckily it was a manual trans car, i was able to engine brake it and limp it back to the seller. pretty scary.
I have the problem with it a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid abs , Tcs and check brake system lights on. Code c0022 brake booster solenoid and u3000
Hey mate. My brakes need more foot force to stop the car like there is a lack of vacuum in the booster, i have added a vacuum canister to try resolve the issue but made no difference. Both the canister and booster hold vacuum with no issue. Can u please explain how the abs causes this issue? As that is one of the symptoms of a failing abs module.