Love this esc, its something I recommend a lot in the drift world for people who get disheartened when they find out everyone is running £200+ esc's. Works really well and the advanced timing allows them that elusive 'turbo' they all want. Just for context though, I run 25deg boost timing, 45deg turbo timing and 25deg endbell timing and no motor fan with 20+ min run times, its amazing what you can get away with when you don't have any grip lol
@@fiveeight0sixsix it's actually what we would refer to as 'turbo' but yes it does have it, it comes in at full throttle exactly like turbo on any drift specific esc. I ran one for nearly a year in a drift car I know what they can and can't do. I will always correct bad advice on these when it comes to using them for drifting.
Somebodies watching me! I just bought one of these today and hey presto your video pops up in my feed! I have to say your video is superbly do and super help, thanku and you have a new subscriber to boot
Excellent and in depth. I have had problems with this, but you just showed me how to set it up. I was having reciever brownouts and run aways. I now know to set lvc to 3.2-3.4 and lower the punch. The punch at 7 was giving me low voltage and amps to bec. Thank you great video
@@rccarsandmusic2641 I think hobbywing should really be putting more info on there packaging and in the instructions if it's not just plug in and play, if I new what I know now I wouldn't of bought it. TBH I might leave it out and run brushed again for a while as I'm using a Tamiya TA05 and not all parts are readily available, and it's in nearly mint condition so I can't risk another run away, a massive thanks for commenting back it's appreciated 👍
I tried to program it for so longthen watched the beginnign of thisvideo. after disconnecting the esc from the receiver i finally could enter the programming mode.
great review, I won't bother with the card just like using LRP esc's (after seeing you demo it via the set button)! Was thinking getting a 3rd v2.1 but cheaped out and got one for 76$ AUD ! Not bad since esc's are ridic costly now, at least any 120a ones ...
Hi need some help if you can? when i try and set this up i press the set up button and turn on and get the beeps , then when i touch it again it is just one long beep and nothing happens ?
Awesome video - thanks. Quick question - do you know what a constant red blinking (1/sec) LED means? I am unable to complete the calibration, enter any program modes or reset the ESC - just get a red blinking LED regardless of how long the 'set' button is pressed / held...
Possibly no signal. Make sure radio is on and bound correctly to receiver. Check esc is plugged into receiver correctly (signal wire in correct orientation)
@@fiveeight0sixsix Thanks for the reply. The receiver is bound, as the steering works as expected. There should be a signal, as I can move the steering to a number of channels and it works fine - but when I use that channel for the ESC, just a red blinking light.
Thanks for the video. I am building a 1/7 scale and looking for a combo for 1/7 Rally car not a monster truck. .. Any suggestions and what kv. Not crazy about speed. Just looking for good quality or a value for money combo and what kv? !
Good review thank you. It was vey clear to understand the button configuration and the program card. Does this come with the sensor cable in the box? Or does one need to be purchased and does it have to be hobbywing specific? TIA.
Hi great review! Thanks helps a lot! I've managed to calibrate but I don't get the solid green when in full throttle or in full reverse. Is there something that I'm doing wrong?
Thank you very much for covering the setup process using the led card and for the settings advices..I just installed mine (10BL120) with 10.5T Hobbywing Justock G2.1 4000KV motor..I made the first calibration and everything is ok,but the fan is blasting at full speed all the time,soo loud,is this normal?When I start the ESC the fan is gradually reving up till it sounds like a turbojet and when reaches maximum revs stays there all the time.
Totally normal, it's a powerful little fan. If it bothers you you can unplug it, although the ESC is more likely to overheat, I wouldn't recommend removing it.
Hi bro, setup this ESC with 3650 Rocket unsensored motor for my speedrun build. I have an issue with full throttle, when I do that at lets say 10 mph I have delay of 2-3 second and can't control anything, just rolling can't stear can't brake nothing.. after 2-3 seconds the ESC responds again.. what do you think? When I drive lets say 30 mph and full throttle than its ok.. Running it with 2s lipo and mod1 gears on wltoys 124019... Not tried with 3s yet. My program card is on the way maybe need to configure something but what?
Great video, and overall a great ESC. I have a couple of these, and I still have the almost identical Speed Passion Version and the HW v2.1 which were high end ESC's back in the day! I do have an issue with one practically brand new one, the puch control seems to make very little difference. Racing 2wd 1/10 on very low traction dirt/dust. I have tried different batteries, sensor cables, motors. Punch is at 1, pickup is incredibly harsh. Any ideas? Trying the same equipment on an Xerun V3.1 is so noticeably smoother in my 1/10 Short Course!
If it's really harsh that would suggest sensor issues, maybe a fault with the port in the ESC. Otherwise I'd maybe check the transmitter settings and throttle calibration. I'm sure the Xerun is much smoother than this at the limit.
@@fiveeight0sixsix thanks for your reply. My next move is to ensure its that by trying the other one i have....the affected one maybe fine for stock touring on carpet or something.
@@chrisdutcher9565 reverse rotation motors are not common outside of some crawlers. If you do not have a crawler (this isn't a system suited to crawlers), you may have built the drivetrain backwards, or set up your transmitter/esc incorrectly.
@sosidge gotcha. Im pretty new to all of it but i do have a crawler and a drift car. This 10bl120 was going in the drift car. Ill do some more research and see what i did wrong.
help me please! I bought the hobbywing quickrun 120a version 1 esc I did the correct calibration, but the forward and backward acceleration commands are inverted! When I accelerate it goes backwards, and when I reverse it goes forwards! I already reversed the control but it didn't solve it! Even the reverse force is much stronger than the forward acceleration force! what could I do?
@@fiveeight0sixsixI redid the calibration again and in different ways and it didn't work! I calibrated in all different possibilities and it didn't work! I've already reversed channel two but it doesn't work either!
I’ve got three runs out of mine ,it now just runs the motor flat out as soon as you turn it on ,yes I did turn the transmitter on first,it will not now recalibrate to set end points on throttle ,first time it worked great but now all it does is beep .when you release the set up button ,seems like there’s a few people having problems with this esc after so many runs .some are getting burning smells ,some no motor power ,some the same problem as mine ,it’s got to be the worst esc hobbywing make for unreliability.
I have some of these and I really want to solder on fresh wires. I can't even see the soldering post on mine though. How did you solder on new motor wires on this ESC?
The soldering posts are in a row along the side of the ESC. If they're missing they've either been removed by a previous owner or you don't actually have this ESC.
I'm struggling to de solder the standard cables, I have a 30wt iron and it's not melting the solder. I need to remove the standard cabling as they are all far too long to fit under my WLToys 124017 body shell. Should I buy a more powerful soldering iron? The iron I have is 100% fine with everything else I work and I've never had a single problem with it until now.
The factory solder needs a very high temperature to melt. A more powerful iron will help with a small chisel tip. Also cut the original wires short so they don't act as a heatsink, just enough to pull them away with your pliers.
If you just heat up banana terminals with small torch and and dip the pre soldered ends in will melt and fit like factory , other then that you need a high temp soldiering gun also from my experience big difference with a good soldering gun and soldering wire
bro, how to setting this esc for 3s battery?, because my 10bl120 wont start when i plug 3s battery, i dont know what happen.. can you help me? thankyou
That looks like the program box that comes with the brushed 1080 hobbywing ESC. Can u use that one on a brushless 10bl120 ESC? I thought the label was blue on the brushless HW program boxes. I'm wondering cause I have the brushed program box and if u can use it wud save the $10 on buying the blue label box
Is there an option to reverse motor direction? Mine is running backwards. If you can't switch through programming, can you switch wires on motor or is this an issue because it's sensored.
No, there is no option to reverse the motor rotation and sensored motors have to be wired in the correct order. If yours is running backwards it's because you are using it in a car that requires a reverse rotation motor (eg some crawlers) or because you have built the gearboxes backwards (like you can with some shaft drive cars).
I followed your steps, and my car doesn’t engage reverse at all. Nothing happens. It goes forward and brakes, but no reverse. I’ve used the card to make sure it’s selected . Any ideas ?
You have a very clear communication style that really lends itself to videos like this. I feel you should do more.
Thank you
Thank you for the clear instructions!
Thank you very very much for the explanation
Helpful information well explained, thank you!
Love this esc, its something I recommend a lot in the drift world for people who get disheartened when they find out everyone is running £200+ esc's. Works really well and the advanced timing allows them that elusive 'turbo' they all want. Just for context though, I run 25deg boost timing, 45deg turbo timing and 25deg endbell timing and no motor fan with 20+ min run times, its amazing what you can get away with when you don't have any grip lol
Does this part (quickrun) come with boost?
@@aacgaming9023 yeah the setting is called advanced timing, look it up in the manual. It's not as good as a proper drift esc but it gets you started..
The timing adjustment on this is not boost, it is static timing advance, I would recommend leaving at zero.
No boost on these
@@fiveeight0sixsix it's actually what we would refer to as 'turbo' but yes it does have it, it comes in at full throttle exactly like turbo on any drift specific esc. I ran one for nearly a year in a drift car I know what they can and can't do. I will always correct bad advice on these when it comes to using them for drifting.
Somebodies watching me! I just bought one of these today and hey presto your video pops up in my feed! I have to say your video is superbly do and super help, thanku and you have a new subscriber to boot
AWESOME INFO, SO GRATEFUL FOR EASY-TO-FOLLOW TUTORIAL
Excellent mate, nicely explained, the instructions for the set button programming were really confusing me.
Much appreciated, Thanks again.
Excellent and in depth. I have had problems with this, but you just showed me how to set it up. I was having reciever brownouts and run aways. I now know to set lvc to 3.2-3.4 and lower the punch. The punch at 7 was giving me low voltage and amps to bec. Thank you great video
Just had a run away with mine and luckily the car flipped before hitting the kerb at 50mph
@@wayneyates700 if using flyshy radio set the fail safe. Replace the cap pack with at least 6600uf
@@rccarsandmusic2641 I am using flysky, so thanks for the information 👍. I've tried looking into it more but there's only so much I can find. 👍
@@wayneyates700 I did that than it ran faultless
@@rccarsandmusic2641 I think hobbywing should really be putting more info on there packaging and in the instructions if it's not just plug in and play, if I new what I know now I wouldn't of bought it. TBH I might leave it out and run brushed again for a while as I'm using a Tamiya TA05 and not all parts are readily available, and it's in nearly mint condition so I can't risk another run away,
a massive thanks for commenting back it's appreciated 👍
Very helpful video - Thanks.
thanks for the thorough review💯
Its a very good ESC for the price!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Had two of these esc’s and both went out after three months
Mine is still going strong
Overheating it?
Thank you 🙏🏻 was just what I needed
It is actually a Speed Passion GT2, which itself is a derivative of an Xerun v2
No, the case may look the same on the outside but the boards inside are completely different.
Great video. Thanks for the explanation of the setting. Now I know what they all mean.
Even a stupid person can understand this and im well stupid . Works a treat thanks
Great informative video thankyou 👍
You don't know if these are compatible with the hobbywing Bluetooth programmer by anychance ?
It won't be.
I tried to program it for so longthen watched the beginnign of thisvideo. after disconnecting the esc from the receiver i finally could enter the programming mode.
great review, I won't bother with the card just like using LRP esc's (after seeing you demo it via the set button)!
Was thinking getting a 3rd v2.1 but cheaped out and got one for 76$ AUD ! Not bad since esc's are ridic costly now, at least any 120a ones ...
Hi need some help if you can? when i try and set this up i press the set up button and turn on and get the beeps , then when i touch it again it is just one long beep and nothing happens ?
Awesome video - thanks. Quick question - do you know what a constant red blinking (1/sec) LED means? I am unable to complete the calibration, enter any program modes or reset the ESC - just get a red blinking LED regardless of how long the 'set' button is pressed / held...
Possibly no signal. Make sure radio is on and bound correctly to receiver. Check esc is plugged into receiver correctly (signal wire in correct orientation)
@@fiveeight0sixsix Thanks for the reply. The receiver is bound, as the steering works as expected. There should be a signal, as I can move the steering to a number of channels and it works fine - but when I use that channel for the ESC, just a red blinking light.
Thanks for the video. I am building a 1/7 scale and looking for a combo for 1/7 Rally car not a monster truck. .. Any suggestions and what kv. Not crazy about speed. Just looking for good quality or a value for money combo and what kv? !
Sorry I don't know what motor would suit a 1/7th scale car
Good review thank you. It was vey clear to understand the button configuration and the program card. Does this come with the sensor cable in the box? Or does one need to be purchased and does it have to be hobbywing specific? TIA.
I don't remember if it came with a sensor wire. 1/10th scale sensor wires all use the same plug.
Well done!
where on the esc did you connect the cable for programming? any port on the esc?
No, you need to pull the cable from the receiver
Hi great review! Thanks helps a lot! I've managed to calibrate but I don't get the solid green when in full throttle or in full reverse. Is there something that I'm doing wrong?
Make sure the radio is in its default settings with no travel limits applied.
Thank you! It was the transmitter
Thank you very much for covering the setup process using the led card and for the settings advices..I just installed mine (10BL120) with 10.5T Hobbywing Justock G2.1 4000KV motor..I made the first calibration and everything is ok,but the fan is blasting at full speed all the time,soo loud,is this normal?When I start the ESC the fan is gradually reving up till it sounds like a turbojet and when reaches maximum revs stays there all the time.
Totally normal, it's a powerful little fan. If it bothers you you can unplug it, although the ESC is more likely to overheat, I wouldn't recommend removing it.
@@fiveeight0sixsix ok,thank you for quick answer.
Hi bro, setup this ESC with 3650 Rocket unsensored motor for my speedrun build. I have an issue with full throttle, when I do that at lets say 10 mph I have delay of 2-3 second and can't control anything, just rolling can't stear can't brake nothing.. after 2-3 seconds the ESC responds again.. what do you think? When I drive lets say 30 mph and full throttle than its ok.. Running it with 2s lipo and mod1 gears on wltoys 124019... Not tried with 3s yet. My program card is on the way maybe need to configure something but what?
Amazing esc
my quicrun 16BL30 has no external plug, can I connect the one from ESC that is connected to the transmitter module?
Thank u for this
Thanks this was helpful one, got mine pretty nicely dialed. But what are the boost and turbo what some are talking about? Some higher end stuff?
Features to advance the motor timing dynamically for more performance. High end. Rarely used in racing any more.
@@fiveeight0sixsix but this esc doesn't have them?
No it doesn't
Great video just one question. If my program card was set item 9 at value 4 should I set it to 1 or leave it?
Hey man, I build my own rc cars and I really love that chassis you have there do you know what the name of the chassis is ?
well described im off to buy a card
Great video, and overall a great ESC. I have a couple of these, and I still have the almost identical Speed Passion Version and the HW v2.1 which were high end ESC's back in the day! I do have an issue with one practically brand new one, the puch control seems to make very little difference. Racing 2wd 1/10 on very low traction dirt/dust. I have tried different batteries, sensor cables, motors. Punch is at 1, pickup is incredibly harsh. Any ideas? Trying the same equipment on an Xerun V3.1 is so noticeably smoother in my 1/10 Short Course!
If it's really harsh that would suggest sensor issues, maybe a fault with the port in the ESC. Otherwise I'd maybe check the transmitter settings and throttle calibration.
I'm sure the Xerun is much smoother than this at the limit.
@@fiveeight0sixsix thanks for your reply. My next move is to ensure its that by trying the other one i have....the affected one maybe fine for stock touring on carpet or something.
This video is so helpful! I was wondering if you could help me with the reversing motor rotation?
You can't reverse motor rotation on this.
@fiveeight0sixsix oh wow that really sucks. do I just need to shop for a motor that already has the rotation i need? Thanks for the help!
@@chrisdutcher9565 reverse rotation motors are not common outside of some crawlers. If you do not have a crawler (this isn't a system suited to crawlers), you may have built the drivetrain backwards, or set up your transmitter/esc incorrectly.
@sosidge gotcha. Im pretty new to all of it but i do have a crawler and a drift car. This 10bl120 was going in the drift car. Ill do some more research and see what i did wrong.
@fiveeight0sixsix
Your link takes me to QuicRun 10BL60, that's really just a broken link to nowhere(AKA: Error).
Thanks, I've updated the link to a more permanent location
help me please! I bought the hobbywing quickrun 120a version 1 esc I did the correct calibration, but the forward and backward acceleration commands are inverted! When I accelerate it goes backwards, and when I reverse it goes forwards! I already reversed the control but it didn't solve it! Even the reverse force is much stronger than the forward acceleration force! what could I do?
You've done the calibration wrong, you've set reverse as forwards. Start again.
@@fiveeight0sixsixI redid the calibration again and in different ways and it didn't work! I calibrated in all different possibilities and it didn't work! I've already reversed channel two but it doesn't work either!
I’ve got three runs out of mine ,it now just runs the motor flat out as soon as you turn it on ,yes I did turn the transmitter on first,it will not now recalibrate to set end points on throttle ,first time it worked great but now all it does is beep .when you release the set up button ,seems like there’s a few people having problems with this esc after so many runs .some are getting burning smells ,some no motor power ,some the same problem as mine ,it’s got to be the worst esc hobbywing make for unreliability.
I have some of these and I really want to solder on fresh wires. I can't even see the soldering post on mine though. How did you solder on new motor wires on this ESC?
The soldering posts are in a row along the side of the ESC. If they're missing they've either been removed by a previous owner or you don't actually have this ESC.
I'm struggling to de solder the standard cables, I have a 30wt iron and it's not melting the solder. I need to remove the standard cabling as they are all far too long to fit under my WLToys 124017 body shell. Should I buy a more powerful soldering iron? The iron I have is 100% fine with everything else I work and I've never had a single problem with it until now.
The factory solder needs a very high temperature to melt. A more powerful iron will help with a small chisel tip. Also cut the original wires short so they don't act as a heatsink, just enough to pull them away with your pliers.
If you just heat up banana terminals with small torch and and dip the pre soldered ends in will melt and fit like factory , other then that you need a high temp soldiering gun also from my experience big difference with a good soldering gun and soldering wire
bro, how to setting this esc for 3s battery?, because my 10bl120 wont start when i plug 3s battery, i dont know what happen.. can you help me? thankyou
It should just work, no extra settings required.
Hello, nice video. Can you please explain how can I reset the first calibration? The neutral, acceleration and braking calibration? Thank you.
Same process as setting it for the first time.
How do you reverse the motor? Mine has more power in reverse than it does forward.
No reverse rotation on these. If it is faster in reverse it is a radio calibration issue and/or the car is built for reverse rotation motors.
I have the same esc with the quicrun 10.5 motor. My car goes faster in reverse than forward.
What car?
I have exactly the same problem,car is much faster in reverse.Have you figured out what the issue is?
That looks like the program box that comes with the brushed 1080 hobbywing ESC. Can u use that one on a brushless 10bl120 ESC? I thought the label was blue on the brushless HW program boxes. I'm wondering cause I have the brushed program box and if u can use it wud save the $10 on buying the blue label box
The LED program boxes are all the same on the inside, they just come with different labels.
Will this be okay for a 1/10th 2wd traxxas stampede or will I need something bigger?
Depends on the motor you are running
@@fiveeight0sixsix how about the Hobbywing Quikrun 3660 3150kv on 3s
Question: how did you connect the motor fan to the ESC? I have just bought this ESC but there is not port to hook up my motor fan?
The fan on the ESC is driven by the two small pins on the top. You don't drive a motor fan from the ESC.
@@fiveeight0sixsix To what do you connect the motor fan then? (sorry.. I'm just getting started with this hobby)
Receiver usually
@@fiveeight0sixsix Ah, alright. Thank you! :)
what to you think to put 10BL120 with 7700kv motor?
As it's a sensored ESC the motor limits are in turns, so compare the motor specs against the manual.
Which turn of kv motor does this eac accept? Is there a limit? Which motor are you racibg with?
The motor limits are listed in the manual which I have linked to in the description. I'm currently running with a 7.5 motor in 2wd.
Thanks I will have a look
@@fiveeight0sixsixso I can run a 6.5t?
Should be ok
Is there an option to reverse motor direction? Mine is running backwards. If you can't switch through programming, can you switch wires on motor or is this an issue because it's sensored.
No, there is no option to reverse the motor rotation and sensored motors have to be wired in the correct order.
If yours is running backwards it's because you are using it in a car that requires a reverse rotation motor (eg some crawlers) or because you have built the gearboxes backwards (like you can with some shaft drive cars).
@@fiveeight0sixsix What about unplugging the sensor wire? Can the wires then be reversed, so I can use the car untill I get the correct motor.
By all means try it.
Its says battery type for #2 on programmer no?
Can you really get 2400W out of that ESC? I want to use it for my bycicle in combination with 4000W 6384 motor.
😂
Yea no problem. It’s rated 10 000 watts continuous
would this esc be ok for out doors dirt in a B6.4D?
Yes but check rules as this is not a blinky esc
My esc has blinking red and green light. What does it represents?
Did you read the manual? The answer is in there. It's a sensor issue.
I followed your steps, and my car doesn’t engage reverse at all. Nothing happens. It goes forward and brakes, but no reverse.
I’ve used the card to make sure it’s selected .
Any ideas ?
Check your transmitter settings, reset it to defaults first.
Suggested esc settings for punch for 17.5 stock class?
7 and above
How do i manually set punch without the program card? (10BL120 with 17.5 quicrun)
I've covered this in the video
What mode to be in to make the 21.5 motor a little faster
You can try increasing the Timing setting but be careful of motor temperatures. Check your track rules on timing if you are racing.
Can it do blinky mode?
The LED does not blink when the timing is set to zero. So it depends on your local rules.
does this too work for other hobbywing esc ?
Hard to say. Hobbywing ESCs are similar but not all the same.
How to set a blinky mode?🙏
There is no blinky mode on this
@@fiveeight0sixsix how about boost or turbo?
No. You need a more expensive esc if you want those features
Why is the capacitor pack wrapped in plastic? Should this not be removed?
Heatshrink for protection. Comes like this in the box.
thats lot ofhelp
Will the ota programmer work with these
No
@@fiveeight0sixsix okay thank you for answering bro appreciate it
Does this allow boost and turbo functionality?
No
Will this work with a sensor less motor??
According to Hobbywing it will.
Yep ,you can