PILATE: Vewy well. I shall welease Woger! CROWD: [cheering] CENTURION: Sir, uh, we don't have a 'Woger', sir. PILATE: What? CENTURION: Uh, we don't have anyone of that name, sir. PILATE: Ah. We have no 'Woger'! CROWD: Ohhhhh!
I'm 52 years old and I have never put my hands on a Barra everything American small block Chevys big block Ford and of course hemis love the build🔥 much love from Detroit 🤙
Alan: 'we're going to use an easy-out' Everyone who's ever used an easy-out: 'don't do it, Alan!' Alan: 'it's an easy-out, they never work...' We feel your pain, yet we all keep going back to them time after time! Keep up the top work lads, it's always a pleasure to watch the latest video on a Wednesday on this side of the world. Cheers!
Hahahaha the Tugger reference had me in stitches! Also interesting to see how the workshop continues to evolve, including white walls for filming and light quality? Awesome work fellas, look forward to the end result of this build.
30:20 You're dead on, Al. The Barra is the end of a long line of modifications and design tweaks going back to the ThriftPower Six from 1960 - but obviously, there's been so many mods to the design by now that the relationship isn't really recognisable any more without seeing all the intervening versions.
@@tturi2 I think you're referring to Grandpa's axe. It's had 5 new handles and 3 new heads, but it's still Grandpa's axe. :) Let us all thank the blue oval gods that they stuck with Grandpa's axe as long as they did. I sorta feel the same way about the LS-series engines if I'm completely honest. There are so many parallels between the Commodore and the Falcon, their drivelines and performance, that it seems a little ignorant to love one and hate the other. I've had nothing but Fords (and a few turbo Subarus thrown in for a little spice), but I'd be thrilled to have a manual HSV GTS in the shed.
@@tturi2 Same idea, only no one's saying it's the same engine, but in the analogy it's argued that it's the same axe. The design began with the Thriftpower Six and has been adjusted and modified ever since with a fairly long series of design changes and improvements into what we know today as the Barra. They're far from the same, but the design lineage is traced directly from one to the other.
16:14 lol the only time I've ever used an easy out I ended up snapping it off in the lower half of the sparkplug I was trying to remove with it. Was jammed in real good (too deep into the heads to grab with any tool capable of removing it), given how hard they are it sure was fun figuring out how to drill it out once I got the heads off. A 10mm diamond core bit (like a small hole saw for drilling holes in tile) is what did the trick incase anyone is wondering (was expensive, and I probably ruined it, but that was still one of the best pieces of advice I've ever got from the internet).
Yes good advice - I always put some on the corners too - though the Barra gasket is such a beefy bit of neoprene, it probably wouldn't leak out the corners like on some cars I've done valve cover gaskets on.. I was astounded to know that 2 of the water pump bolts penetrate the jacket - I've done I think 3 Barra water pumps in my time, and never realised! None of them ever leaked, at least as far as I know, or maybe just didn't leak enough to ever notice - so I guess I got lucky there. The main thing I remember about them was every single time scraping the old factory gasket off with the engine in the car was horrific.
10:49 even the cheapest (well, not so cheap that they'd fall apart) stones are good. Just rub them together with plenty of super fine machine oil (what you'd put in Grandmama's old Singer sewing machine) and when the feel and sound of the grind action (of the same same faces) changes, and it is noticeable with new stones) that's when they are perfectly flat and perfectly ok to use. Sidenote: a trick to use them without Schmutz flying in is to just invert the motor and do it upside down. It's on the kebab stand, so use it to your (royal your) advantage. If you have to do this in the engine and can't flush it, then just stuff the passages with napkins and clay (kid's plasteline/plasticine). As long as you rub the stones together every once in a while to keep them flat and you let the weight of the stone do the work for you, it's perfectly acceptable. Machinists do this all the time on surfaces that are FAR, far more critical than an engine's deck (with the caveat that they use higher quality stones).
love all the slow mo-beauty shots guys :D :D :D And my boss would always get pissed off at me as well when I'd want to paint up stuff before putting it all back together.
Thanks for sharing your real experience and tips with this one. Was cool to see the shitty simple things you can do wrong that end up in max frustration and time. Also Woody asking the serious life questions after the credits. Best bet I just added Vegemite Shapes to my order this week as well as Cheese Shapes. Big moments in science.
call me crazy, but I have done many blocks "back yard" with sharpening stones and a straight edge. (new stone from the hardware is like $15) and get the head shaved and pressured tested. Never had one fail.. Last one I did was a 2jz holding 30psi.. works a treat... I'm all about the budget :D ( year late one the comment, I know) I still have the same old piece of 6mm flat bar from 15 years ago that has written on it, " Trust me, I'm straight"
Genuine tensioners applies to Holden too. Especially alloytecs. The number of brand new chain kits I've had to replace tensioners in, due to poor quality is unbelievable
4:18 There it is! I was waiting for it, especially with the way Woody removed the rocker cover and looked inside the engine. 10:35 - 10:51 🤣😅 I'm no Inline 6 performance engine expert, but there seem to be a lot of quirks with the bara. It's almost like it's a Ford....😅 Nice colour for the rocker cover.
I make my own easy-out. I buy end mills (broken ones that need a regrind are perfect for this) and grind them into a triangle pyramid. That thing driven not too hard into the hole grips really well and with a little bit of heat, then some compressed air from a can directly and only on the easy-out, pops them out pretty consistently. You don't even need too much heat, a heatgun does just fine, it's all about shocking the bolt through the easy-out. I sometimes use an impact driver (the mechanical kind). A store bought easy-out wouldn't take it, but the ground one can. Those flutes they have are great for bigger sizes of bolt, but for small stuff, it's just asking for trouble.
I love this style of your content. Old skool home remedies that don't work (i hate eaze outs), do's, and don'ts. Keep up the good work boys. P.s. i also had pork roast for dinner.
A polo shirt merch option would be cool (eg. with embroidered TSF or Allied words/logo). I tend to wear polos more than T-shirts when going out for "Queensland neck sunburn" and "looking a bit neater" reasons. I'm probably not the only one.
I'd reckon they use paper on the intake because its cooler temperatures and steel on the exhaust because of the extreme temperatures of the exhaust. I would imagine there's more expansion and compression on the exhaust side from the heat cycling and the steel gasket withstands that sort of abuse better over the long term than the paper would.
The tapered, spiral easy outs never work because their design is fundamentally flawed. As they dig in they push out on the threads and bind them further. Any time you wedge something tapered into a hole, it's got to push out. Left hand drills are often enough on their own but I like the Ridgid 35585/Blue Point E1020 screw extractor set. They can be had for a couple hundred bucks in Australia. It's worth it, they actually work really well. It's a set of drills and a straight spline piece that you hammer so it doesn't push out on the threads. Ditch the easy outs and get one of those.
I am joe from Malta and i have buy holden comodor vx automatic i have a barra engine i need same tip to swap the engine tks and what gear box i need to swap tks 😊
only thing I'd add is that the cam caps are directional and sided due to the line honing and cant be swapped around, or there could be issues with binding etc
As an ex mechanic myself (and having learnt the hard way when I was 17, I'm now early 40's and hesitate to use them), when using an ezy out or any screw extractor tool, never use one more than half the diameter of the bolt/stud you are trying to remove. It forces the (by then) weaker walls of the offensive material to bite harder into the material you are trying to extract it from, creating a stronger grip for that tool to overcome. If you can't remove it with something smaller than half the diameter, move straight to drilling and tapping, or get a professional to sort it.
Ah yes the lilactop barra that was built only in the second half of July in 2011 on Wednesday afternoons, designed specifically for the vegemite 300 production car races at bathurst
Yall should come out to the Pittsworth sprints this weekend to check out the plethora of falcons n commos send it around the industrial estate all weeekend :p
These are pretty neat engines and sound cool! Its a shame we didnt get them here in the states! Something Ive wondered is why doesnt anyone belt drive supercharge these to make them different?
It’s an inline so the biggest advantage of a supercharger being packaging is a moot point. V engines take advantage of the supercharger packaging. Whereas with an inline engine all exhaust ports are located on the same side, which means a single turbo is much easier to plumb and takes up much less space than a turbo install on a V engine. Turbo chargers are inherently more efficient than a supercharger because they run on wasted exhaust heat energy, versus a supercharger which are belt or gear driven which take horsepower to turn the pulley. So inline engines are naturally much easier to turbo charge than a V engine, and it doesn’t make any sense to use a less efficient forced induction method (supercharging).
Yup, superchargers use up 25% of the engines power to drive them. This is the work needed to compress the air, not the addiditonal mechanical losses. Turbos mostly use waste energy
Love the vids, been watching since you guys started (honestly, longer, since I'm a MCM fan)! Consider recording in 60fps. Video quality is great, but movement gets kind of blurry/looks weird. If your cameras can do it, 60fps would smooth that out a lot.
That's a really nice metallic lilac cam cover. Looks quite swish 😊 I like the straight 6 history. At least Ford modernised with VVT unlike the LS that's descended from Chevys 1930 boat anchor V8 and never went to VVT 😉
WRONG! There are SEVERAL LS based engines that had VVT, just a 5 min google search can prove you wrong on so many levels, and no, i'm not talking about the LT generation.
@@joealex65 I'm not an LS fan but intrigued as to why I've never seen these VVT versions used when anyone builds an LS for media content? As I'm not American then I've not had the exposure to the VVT version GM made. My bad :)
“It’s and easy out, they never work” never a truer word spoken. Used to make a lot of good money getting broken easy outs then broken studs out. A stud is a box of beer. Throw a broken off easy out in there too then you’re talking 300-400 bucks.
Nice lads, informative and enjoyable, always quality. Ive seen the Toolprox gear, can you give a a few reviews on it, interested in getting it if it’s good
I like the torque wrench but I also don't.. great for the angle torque but when it's a number I like the click click maybe I'm just old school at the old age of 30... we have the t&e that looks the same as your toolpro one
it looks like the valves were replaced or even the whole head maybe. as you said timing chain looked very good as well. that sounds to me head serviced/replaced/gasket and timing chain were replaced. the head looks cleaner than the the block side which doesn't make sense. the amount of carbon on the pistons but not in the head tells me so much that's my opinion unless they just put a bunch of seafoam down it. With the cams being notorious for pitting I noticed you reused the lifters. a good set of lifters won't cost much more. common man
I'd be interested in seeing a back to back difference in using that plenum. Maybe i'll have to make my own. I thought you made some interesting engine parts choices You mention something along the lines of "you shouldn't increase the limiter on your barra" but you are putting "b" cams in I've talked to Kelford about this very question and they said that "a" cams provide plenty and will rev over 7 if needed. He said that for my build (while I suspect will end up with the same figures as you) that "b" cams are way too much and all I'd get is more lope and another 1000rpm ontop of the spool of the turbo I'm currently at 6500rpm on stock cams and its almost peak power there. Fairly low boost up top but thats the power curve...
You guy never had it down south but it would be epic if you could do mash up with Nivlac57 and make the ultimate Barra Vs Vortec 4200(Ameri-Barra) series of video. We need an Haltech plug n harness/ecu and i know it would all happen if you end up with one of those engine.
I've heard you're supposed to pack those oil pumps with vasolene or something similar for first startup so it builds prime, not sure how much truth is to it tho
![10 SECOND SLEEPER [Toyota Cresta]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QUpfSUKVjYc/mqdefault.jpg)
Use the code "Roger" for a sneaky discount!
theskidfactory.com/
My dog was Roger don't be disrespectful
Rodger
My name is a discount code 😂
PILATE: Vewy well. I shall welease Woger!
CROWD: [cheering]
CENTURION: Sir, uh, we don't have a 'Woger', sir.
PILATE: What?
CENTURION: Uh, we don't have anyone of that name, sir.
PILATE: Ah. We have no 'Woger'!
CROWD: Ohhhhh!
@@yowie0889 (or is that actually yorie0889) Are you ... wagging me?
13:30 feedback for ToolProX: the torque wrench should moan instead of beep when it hits the setting
🤣🤣
Need to be adapted to the ”new” world. Choose between man and woman😂
Should whistle. Family Guy's Herbert whistle.
@@aserta why not a usb port, upload your own degenerate .wav file
a torque wrench that moans uwu or yamate kudesai perhaps
I'm 52 years old and I have never put my hands on a
Barra everything American small block Chevys big block Ford and of course hemis love the build🔥 much love from Detroit 🤙
Alan: 'we're going to use an easy-out'
Everyone who's ever used an easy-out: 'don't do it, Alan!'
Alan: 'it's an easy-out, they never work...'
We feel your pain, yet we all keep going back to them time after time! Keep up the top work lads, it's always a pleasure to watch the latest video on a Wednesday on this side of the world. Cheers!
Because that one time it worked was glorious. Lol
I find left hand drill bits are useful when drilling the holes 9/10 times they wind out whilst drilling
@@TheMrkylester101Yes finally someone mentions left-handed drill bits, they are awesome for extracting snapped bolts ❤️
@TheMrkylester101 just bought some for the workshop yesterday, can't wait to never use them 😂
love all the videos man that 30 years of being a mechanic is a golden line.
Watching Woody and Al "spit roast" a barra will be the higlight of my week.....😂 Needs some 80s erotica music over the top...bow chica wow wow...
Get a set of left hand drill bits.
Sometimes they are enough to get a broken bolt out of a hole.
Perfect for broken barra bolts.
11:00 The lads rubbing their deck together
Man I wish we got the Barra in the USA!
Hay there are quite a few Barra conversions in the US most 1000 Hp plus my old BA 2005 @ 200Ks ready for an upgrade !🇦🇺🇺🇸
Hahahaha the Tugger reference had me in stitches! Also interesting to see how the workshop continues to evolve, including white walls for filming and light quality? Awesome work fellas, look forward to the end result of this build.
Cool to see a skid factory V lowstandards build off , 👍👍
30:20 You're dead on, Al. The Barra is the end of a long line of modifications and design tweaks going back to the ThriftPower Six from 1960 - but obviously, there's been so many mods to the design by now that the relationship isn't really recognisable any more without seeing all the intervening versions.
you replace the axe handle with an upgraded one then you replace the axe with an upgraded axe, is it the same axe?
@@tturi2 I think you're referring to Grandpa's axe. It's had 5 new handles and 3 new heads, but it's still Grandpa's axe. :) Let us all thank the blue oval gods that they stuck with Grandpa's axe as long as they did. I sorta feel the same way about the LS-series engines if I'm completely honest. There are so many parallels between the Commodore and the Falcon, their drivelines and performance, that it seems a little ignorant to love one and hate the other. I've had nothing but Fords (and a few turbo Subarus thrown in for a little spice), but I'd be thrilled to have a manual HSV GTS in the shed.
@@tturi2 Same idea, only no one's saying it's the same engine, but in the analogy it's argued that it's the same axe. The design began with the Thriftpower Six and has been adjusted and modified ever since with a fairly long series of design changes and improvements into what we know today as the Barra. They're far from the same, but the design lineage is traced directly from one to the other.
16:14 lol the only time I've ever used an easy out I ended up snapping it off in the lower half of the sparkplug I was trying to remove with it. Was jammed in real good (too deep into the heads to grab with any tool capable of removing it), given how hard they are it sure was fun figuring out how to drill it out once I got the heads off. A 10mm diamond core bit (like a small hole saw for drilling holes in tile) is what did the trick incase anyone is wondering (was expensive, and I probably ruined it, but that was still one of the best pieces of advice I've ever got from the internet).
Don't forget some sealant on the VCT solenoid seals and under the rocker cover where the timing cover meets the block
Yes good advice - I always put some on the corners too - though the Barra gasket is such a beefy bit of neoprene, it probably wouldn't leak out the corners like on some cars I've done valve cover gaskets on.. I was astounded to know that 2 of the water pump bolts penetrate the jacket - I've done I think 3 Barra water pumps in my time, and never realised! None of them ever leaked, at least as far as I know, or maybe just didn't leak enough to ever notice - so I guess I got lucky there. The main thing I remember about them was every single time scraping the old factory gasket off with the engine in the car was horrific.
Hey woody, just want to give a heads up, throw the atomic guids in the bin and run factory fg. Been there and done that stuff around.
10:49 even the cheapest (well, not so cheap that they'd fall apart) stones are good. Just rub them together with plenty of super fine machine oil (what you'd put in Grandmama's old Singer sewing machine) and when the feel and sound of the grind action (of the same same faces) changes, and it is noticeable with new stones) that's when they are perfectly flat and perfectly ok to use.
Sidenote: a trick to use them without Schmutz flying in is to just invert the motor and do it upside down. It's on the kebab stand, so use it to your (royal your) advantage. If you have to do this in the engine and can't flush it, then just stuff the passages with napkins and clay (kid's plasteline/plasticine).
As long as you rub the stones together every once in a while to keep them flat and you let the weight of the stone do the work for you, it's perfectly acceptable. Machinists do this all the time on surfaces that are FAR, far more critical than an engine's deck (with the caveat that they use higher quality stones).
I'm using the term "kebab stand" from now on.
love all the slow mo-beauty shots guys :D :D :D And my boss would always get pissed off at me as well when I'd want to paint up stuff before putting it all back together.
After breaking many easy outs over the years, I started using reverse drill bits. So far they've been much better.
750-800 max 900 you’re pulling your leg, I’m a Barra man myself and have popped a handful myself, 800 tops on stock Rods
People have made big power with stock rods. Never seen one last though! 😂
@@Woodrigos that’s it bro,
Thanks for sharing your real experience and tips with this one. Was cool to see the shitty simple things you can do wrong that end up in max frustration and time. Also Woody asking the serious life questions after the credits. Best bet I just added Vegemite Shapes to my order this week as well as Cheese Shapes. Big moments in science.
god damn ild love to build my barra with turbo yoda. so much knowledge in his head and ive got so much to learn
I'm most impressed about the successful application of easy-outs ;)
+1 for always painting things.... Woody, you're not alone!! =D
call me crazy, but I have done many blocks "back yard" with sharpening stones and a straight edge. (new stone from the hardware is like $15) and get the head shaved and pressured tested. Never had one fail.. Last one I did was a 2jz holding 30psi.. works a treat... I'm all about the budget :D ( year late one the comment, I know) I still have the same old piece of 6mm flat bar from 15 years ago that has written on it, " Trust me, I'm straight"
Genuine tensioners applies to Holden too. Especially alloytecs. The number of brand new chain kits I've had to replace tensioners in, due to poor quality is unbelievable
4:18 There it is!
I was waiting for it, especially with the way Woody removed the rocker cover and looked inside the engine.
10:35 - 10:51 🤣😅
I'm no Inline 6 performance engine expert, but there seem to be a lot of quirks with the bara.
It's almost like it's a Ford....😅
Nice colour for the rocker cover.
Best broken bolt removal tool is a Lefthanded drill bit.👍
You can also remove the screen from the turbo block oil feed. I did this as soon as warranty was over on my stock FGT
Al's knowledge, is so good!
I was a tad bit surprised that after al said he recommends the oem timing chain tensioner he didnt backflip and say 'here is one from a subaru'....
13:08 Love that transition
I make my own easy-out. I buy end mills (broken ones that need a regrind are perfect for this) and grind them into a triangle pyramid. That thing driven not too hard into the hole grips really well and with a little bit of heat, then some compressed air from a can directly and only on the easy-out, pops them out pretty consistently. You don't even need too much heat, a heatgun does just fine, it's all about shocking the bolt through the easy-out. I sometimes use an impact driver (the mechanical kind). A store bought easy-out wouldn't take it, but the ground one can. Those flutes they have are great for bigger sizes of bolt, but for small stuff, it's just asking for trouble.
I love this style of your content. Old skool home remedies that don't work (i hate eaze outs), do's, and don'ts. Keep up the good work boys. P.s. i also had pork roast for dinner.
left hand drills are the go for drilling out broken bolts
I find beating a trx bit/socket into the hole you drilled works better than easy outs 👌💯🤙
A polo shirt merch option would be cool (eg. with embroidered TSF or Allied words/logo).
I tend to wear polos more than T-shirts when going out for "Queensland neck sunburn" and "looking a bit neater" reasons. I'm probably not the only one.
The eshay lads would love them too.
Could wear one to golf!
@@Mattstang Exactly. Also your own wedding. What could be more stylish?
I'd reckon they use paper on the intake because its cooler temperatures and steel on the exhaust because of the extreme temperatures of the exhaust. I would imagine there's more expansion and compression on the exhaust side from the heat cycling and the steel gasket withstands that sort of abuse better over the long term than the paper would.
This is next level, my eyes are glued
You do realise the notorious Al, aka "MC Motronic", aka "Turbo Yoda", aka "Dose Daddy", needs to do a rap cover now...right?
The tapered, spiral easy outs never work because their design is fundamentally flawed. As they dig in they push out on the threads and bind them further. Any time you wedge something tapered into a hole, it's got to push out. Left hand drills are often enough on their own but I like the Ridgid 35585/Blue Point E1020 screw extractor set. They can be had for a couple hundred bucks in Australia. It's worth it, they actually work really well. It's a set of drills and a straight spline piece that you hammer so it doesn't push out on the threads. Ditch the easy outs and get one of those.
Love the valve cover!
I am joe from Malta and i have buy holden comodor vx automatic i have a barra engine i need same tip to swap the engine tks and what gear box i need to swap tks 😊
only thing I'd add is that the cam caps are directional and sided due to the line honing and cant be swapped around, or there could be issues with binding etc
As an ex mechanic myself (and having learnt the hard way when I was 17, I'm now early 40's and hesitate to use them), when using an ezy out or any screw extractor tool, never use one more than half the diameter of the bolt/stud you are trying to remove. It forces the (by then) weaker walls of the offensive material to bite harder into the material you are trying to extract it from, creating a stronger grip for that tool to overcome. If you can't remove it with something smaller than half the diameter, move straight to drilling and tapping, or get a professional to sort it.
They just suck. The first one came out easily, as soon as the ezy out slipped on the second one I knew I was in for a bad time.
Before the sleezy out, I always drill with left handed drill bits, usually loosens the bolt if there is ever going to be a chance of them coming out
Who else is excited for this new electronic torque wrench from ToolproX ??? Can't wait !
In my 10 years of being a mechanic, I have broken more easy outs than I have broken bolts. Drill and retap or weld a nut is best options hands down
Nice work Fellas!
Every Barra video makes me want to import one to the states. Keep it up great content!
Why bother paying so much to get a Barra to the other side of the world? Don't you guys pay like $500 for LS engines?
@@notmyrealname7432it's an LS..
Nice to see you using oil instead of that silly pink gloop 👍
“Do them up by hand”
Rings true!
😂
It’s the shear strength that’s called into question. 😌
Love the information, hate the music the music makes me feel like clicking off but I like watching turbo Yoda, so I stuck around
Nicely done
Hello 😊
MC Motronic needs to be on a tshirt now
MC Sprocket
Woody you needed to give the timing cover some paint too, rocker cover colour is cool 👌
Ah yes the lilactop barra that was built only in the second half of July in 2011 on Wednesday afternoons, designed specifically for the vegemite 300 production car races at bathurst
Woody - channeling his inner Davin painting that block all fancy like.
It was very enjoyable to watch you do a whole engine.
MC DROPS-A-GEAR!!! I mean, it fits in so many ways... especially when you ask for a name right after he drops parts lol.
Love seeing the videos each week! Keep it up!
Yall should come out to the Pittsworth sprints this weekend to check out the plethora of falcons n commos send it around the industrial estate all weeekend :p
Loving the barra content lads👍
These are pretty neat engines and sound cool! Its a shame we didnt get them here in the states! Something Ive wondered is why doesnt anyone belt drive supercharge these to make them different?
It’s an inline so the biggest advantage of a supercharger being packaging is a moot point. V engines take advantage of the supercharger packaging. Whereas with an inline engine all exhaust ports are located on the same side, which means a single turbo is much easier to plumb and takes up much less space than a turbo install on a V engine. Turbo chargers are inherently more efficient than a supercharger because they run on wasted exhaust heat energy, versus a supercharger which are belt or gear driven which take horsepower to turn the pulley.
So inline engines are naturally much easier to turbo charge than a V engine, and it doesn’t make any sense to use a less efficient forced induction method (supercharging).
Yup, superchargers use up 25% of the engines power to drive them. This is the work needed to compress the air, not the addiditonal mechanical losses. Turbos mostly use waste energy
@@nordic5490 lol I just think they look cool!
Cheers lads.
Great video, everything except the engine block and pistons had to be replaced for one reason or another
Get a set of left hand drills for extracting screw.
Always up for a good Wallace and Gromit reference.......
20:00 Glad the only “drill” Al knows is the one used to get those valve cover bolts out.
Just needs some “BRRRT BRRRT” noises and he’s set! Lol
Love the vids, been watching since you guys started (honestly, longer, since I'm a MCM fan)!
Consider recording in 60fps. Video quality is great, but movement gets kind of blurry/looks weird. If your cameras can do it, 60fps would smooth that out a lot.
That's a really nice metallic lilac cam cover. Looks quite swish 😊 I like the straight 6 history. At least Ford modernised with VVT unlike the LS that's descended from Chevys 1930 boat anchor V8 and never went to VVT 😉
Oh they'll vary alright. Just not particularly beneficial. Like the displacement on demand. Yeesh.
Many US spec LS engines did have VVT. We never got them here in Australia
@@greasemonkeychris4128 Was that the LT variant?
WRONG! There are SEVERAL LS based engines that had VVT, just a 5 min google search can prove you wrong on so many levels, and no, i'm not talking about the LT generation.
@@joealex65 I'm not an LS fan but intrigued as to why I've never seen these VVT versions used when anyone builds an LS for media content?
As I'm not American then I've not had the exposure to the VVT version GM made. My bad :)
“It’s and easy out, they never work” never a truer word spoken. Used to make a lot of good money getting broken easy outs then broken studs out. A stud is a box of beer. Throw a broken off easy out in there too then you’re talking 300-400 bucks.
Check the sharpening stone for flatness before you do that sometimes they are not flat
Nice lads, informative and enjoyable, always quality. Ive seen the Toolprox gear, can you give a a few reviews on it, interested in getting it if it’s good
Build an intech next 😋
3.2 single point EA engine next.
whoever got paid to wash the roll up door ripped you off
A tall friend told me that digitial torque wrench should be in stores early next year
I like the torque wrench but I also don't.. great for the angle torque but when it's a number I like the click click maybe I'm just old school at the old age of 30... we have the t&e that looks the same as your toolpro one
Turn the beep alert on
I should be cooking dinner but here I am.
it looks like the valves were replaced or even the whole head maybe. as you said timing chain looked very good as well. that sounds to me head serviced/replaced/gasket and timing chain were replaced. the head looks cleaner than the the block side which doesn't make sense. the amount of carbon on the pistons but not in the head tells me so much
that's my opinion unless they just put a bunch of seafoam down it.
With the cams being notorious for pitting I noticed you reused the lifters. a good set of lifters won't cost much more. common man
I'd be interested in seeing a back to back difference in using that plenum. Maybe i'll have to make my own.
I thought you made some interesting engine parts choices
You mention something along the lines of "you shouldn't increase the limiter on your barra" but you are putting "b" cams in
I've talked to Kelford about this very question and they said that "a" cams provide plenty and will rev over 7 if needed.
He said that for my build (while I suspect will end up with the same figures as you) that "b" cams are way too much and all I'd get is more lope and another 1000rpm ontop of the spool of the turbo
I'm currently at 6500rpm on stock cams and its almost peak power there. Fairly low boost up top but thats the power curve...
Should we start calling you Tyler Thompson with the rose gold cover
Good 'ole Rodger
We need more Wrodgjer on the show!
Good video.
Woody's dad-bod is blossoming ever more with each episode... with great skill comes great man boobs :)
Cant seem to find that raceworks thermostat housing anywhere.
Vegemite on Vegemite shapes? You're an animal Woody
THANK YOU FOR VIDEO
Used to call it phasing harmonics old diesel patrol engines had it at a certain rev 🤷♂️🙈👍.
Hi is the timing chain kit genuine aswell or just the tensioner ??
Awesome lads…
You guy never had it down south but it would be epic if you could do mash up with Nivlac57 and make the ultimate Barra Vs Vortec 4200(Ameri-Barra) series of video. We need an Haltech plug n harness/ecu and i know it would all happen if you end up with one of those engine.
Vortec 4200 has the cam timing on one cam only
I would've painted the block too !!
I've heard you're supposed to pack those oil pumps with vasolene or something similar for first startup so it builds prime, not sure how much truth is to it tho
Omfg! I love the "The New Terrance and Phillip Movie Trailer" clips.... Ohhh my godddd it's Russell Crowe...😂😂😂
MAKING IT SUPER!!!!!!
Lilac AF😍
Maybe you should look at the VR6 engine
You haven't lived until you've snapped an easy out in an already stuck bolt !
Alan.... ooh that scratch is making me itch.....