@@thegeneraljoe67 I don't have a specific brand that I use. Instead, the application dictates which chemistry I use and then I pick the brand I trust to deliver that chemistry. I also test different products in my daily driver via used oil analysis. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is what's in it now.
I graduated undergrad with Degree in physics minor in bio and chemistry and I just like but don't love this. Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos even though I only like not love them.
@@themotoroilgeekrecommendation for a 2000 Toro Groundsmaster 325-D (Mitsubishi diesel engine) with over 3,000 hours? I recently took on this mower and am in the process of changing the fluids. The engine oil had 250hrs on it & I’m unsure of age, but I would guess 5 years? The oil was BLACK. Currently have gone through 3 engine oil changes in about 1-hour of run time using Penzoil conventional 10w-30 oil and it’s finally starting to lighten-up in color. I live in MN & mow 4-8hrs/wk for roughly 26 weeks annually. I typically change my oil based on OE recommendation or when it appears to be getting dirty (darker golden brown).
Good advice here, very thorough breakdown! I was very young in 1963 but I remember my dad got a tutorial from the local Ford dealer as he was handed the keys to the baby blue Country Squire. Quick first oil change, vary highway speeds, don't race rpms especially when cold, 'baby' it from a stop. (trans care was mentioned too) After 3,000 miles he could relax but still change every 3 to 3,500 miles. The engine was a 260 v8 I remember from the cool front fender logo. Great car that served for many years until Pennsylvania road salt finally ate the body and wood grain.
@jason200912 I use the platinum mileage on my car & just platinum on my wife's. I did use Royal Purple for years and got over 300k on my G6. I then had a mechanic friend tell me they changed their formula and it wasn't as good. He recommended Amsoil and I used that for a few years without complaint. Then Project Farm turned me onto the Pennzoil products with his comparison of Amsoil and Pennzoil. They are similar, but Pennzoil is cheaper. This is just my opinion
In the transportation business, mainly as a mechanic, for almost 46 years, and I never thought I would find motor oil so interesting. Thanks for another great video!
I'm an average gear head and have tried to watch/listen to other reports on the subject, almost fell asleep a few times. You my friend, I could listen to you for hours on how to tie shoe laces, great video, been using Platinum 5w30 in everything for a long time. Thanx for quantifying my choice.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is worth the extra cost over regular Pennzoil Platinum, especially when purchased at places like Walmart where the difference in price is not that much. Mobil 1 EP is also a very good oil, definitely better than regular Mobil 1.
Wow, thanks Lake Speed Jr!!! That was better than a college class and the info kept coming, firing on every cylinder! I appreciate you hammering the point about “don’t need high TBN!”
@@EnjoyCarI don’t necessarily disagree with your position. That said, you don’t have to dig too deep to find disdainful practices of any large corporation. It’s just a matter of will and effort.
Great Video I work for SHELL and the site I'm based out of is the largest ALPHA OLEFIN Producer in the world so some amount of what we produce ends up in Motor Oils. I also worked at the GTL Plant in Qutar and it was a very impressive place. The size of the Rotating Equipment is quite impressive especially in the Oxygen Unit, since the front end of the conversion requires tremendous amounts of oxygen. Looking forward to more videos.
How is the quality of the Shell advanced ultra fully synthetic oil sir...for motorbikes...specially the Shell advanced ultra 10w 40 fully synthetic oil...please suggest...
Thanks for the great analysis and info on Pennzoil. Mobil 1 used to be my go to oil for years but now Pennzoil Platinum is and have noticed a big difference in engine performance and condition at OCI!
Just switched to Pennzoil ultra premium high mileage 5w30. 2013 Hyundai 2 liter 120k miles. Mpg increased by 2 in town and 3 highway. Was running syn 5w30 by Walmart.
Just FYI Project Farm made a test of all main Pennzoil Oils and according to their analysis Platinum demonstrated worse performance in comparison with Full Synthetic. Ultra Platinum took the 1sr place. Check this one as you may find it interesting: m.ruclips.net/video/D3qFfAEp9AU/видео.html
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil 1 EP are worth the few extra dollars (per 5-quart jug). If you really want a quality oil at a reasonable price, these are the two that should be compared, instead of regular Pennzoil Platinum or regular Mobil 1.
The reason people are questioning the new spec is because not all of the brands who manufacture GF-6/SP certified oil do a good job plain and simple. They just don't, and Pennzoil isn't who I'm referring to. Some of the others just do not have adequate additive packages. A lot SN/SN+ oil were perfectly fine but from my understanding the push for the new spec was based not on concern for longevity of the engine. Fuel economy was a big factor. Maybe I'm wrong I don't know.
The Pennzoil platinum may also contain ashless anti oxidants and organic friction modifiers that may not show up on any type of elemental analysis, consider another big part of Dexos1 Generation 3 was lowering the ash threshold from 1.0% to 0.9%. Also having less moly in the the full syn may be that the blends are using a dinuclear type of moly while the full syn is use a trinuclear variety which is more effective in a lower concentration.
Given the (to me at least) low moly levels in almost all newer oils (as compared to the older, pre-SN spec oils), I thought that they ALL are using the newer 'trimer' (trinuclear) type of moly, which is more effective than the old(er) 'dimer' (dinuclear) stuff, therefore much less of it is needed to get the same results/effect. ??
*_I noticed my 97 Honda Civic rear main seal dosent leak as much ever since I switched from cheap conventional 5w-30 oil to fully synthetic high mileage penzoil 5w-30. I can say it actually works!_*
I use Hi-Mileage and also bump up to 10w-30 during the summer months (April -Oct). 90% of my drips are gone! When I go back to 5W Hi-mileage in the winter , I hope it stays just as dry.
@@themotoroilgeek yes! I'm currently running it now. 487 miles so far on it. Btw, what would YOU use for a 1.5L direct injection turbocharged engine? There's so many choices, I had been running castrol edge 0w20 full synthetic. I wanted to switch it up though. Just curious on your thoughts.
Really appreciate your analysis breakdowns. Would like to see a Valvoline comparison sometime. I have used that brand for years, but after checking out this Pennzoil video I’m probably going to try it my next oil change.
@@themotoroilgeek - I'm with ^. Thank you for taking the time to clarify. My passion for machines and their intricate workings is something I've cherished since I was young, carrying that Honda HR217. Whether it's my choice in top-grade oils for my machines or diving into the nitty-gritty of TBN values, I strive to know and provide the best. Living in Belgium has only reinforced my appreciation for high standards and quality. I'm always eager to expand my knowledge, and I'm grateful for this clear explanation. Here's to always learning and prioritizing quality in all we do! I'm the kinda guy that puts Amso 10w30 SS Diesel in his GCV530 V-twin engine. or XL Boosted. And ZROD in in his Dolmar blowers. Rowe - hightec synth rs sae 5w-40 is next is next on the menu. Anyway. Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Could you test Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic while you're at it? I'm curious how these stack up against one another. I've used M1 for years now, and I've wondered if it's worth the extra expense.
This is why I hate the oil standards, they make changes and update certain specs but then they don't bother making the proper adjustments on things like TBN?? Another great informative video!
Thank you, people don't realize how lubricants make such a longevity difference. Even important in the days of hand cranked bulk dispensers into tin capped glass bottles.
Would you be willing to do a video comparing some of the top-of-the-line full synthetic high mileage motor oils like Pennzoil, Mobil1, Valvoline, and Castrol? I feel like it would benefit a lot of people who own and maintain older vehicles. I have been using Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage on both of my cars that are at or above 200,000mi. I've gone with this based on Project Farms video from a few years ago, but would like to see some more analysis on whether there are better options.
This would be interesting, I have an older model truck, 1992, it has the stock 5.0 liter in it with over 200k miles. I would be interested in knowing if the newer or synthetic oils would be helpful or harmful to an older engine like this that may not have been designed with the newer oils in mind.
Interesting that you mentioned a Forester boxer! Just did a rering in my '03 Forester because of it's drinking problem of 1 qt per 1000 miles or less. Didn't do anything else but changed the rings. Well, of course, new head gaskets and other related gaskets. I found the oil return holes behind the oil rings to be completely plugged full of brown carbon. I started attempting to clean them with a drill bit and my fingers. Moved up to putting that bit into a drill, and it still was tough cleaning them! I've put just about a 1000 miles on the new rings and haven't noticed any oil consumption. Power is up as well as millage from 22 to pushing 26. There's over 200,000 miles on the car. Crosshatch still visible in the cylinders.
I can tell you from experience, these are all very good quality oils. The first 75,000 miles, almost every single oil change was Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional. After that I started using Pennzoil 5W-30 high mileage oil. Normally use a Bosch premium oil filter or other premium filter. I’ve never tried the fully synthetic. I change my oil every 4000 - 5000 miles. I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4.0 V6 with 145,000 miles that I bought brand new, and it still runs like brand new. It’s very easy changing the oil myself.
I pretty much have no clue what you were talking about through this entire video. But what it did make me realize is that oil is complicated and that I need to stick to whatever oil the manufacturer recommends and change it often.
Very interesting. I just change oil every 5k miles. Of course, i believe these differences will show up over time. With frequent changes i think that time will be will into the future, unless youre driving a Hyundai or a Chrysler
I am at the same level of comprehension. Fortunately, one doesn't have to know much to be able to function in this world. All one has to do is pay attention to the car servicing, do it earlier than the manual suggests (all the mfg. wants is for the car to do 3 years or 36,000 miles -which is really only two years). Oil changes? I take a factory filter in. I give multiple copies of what is to be examined or lubed (oh, yes, you can lube places under the car although the mfgs. don't say so). The family has had 4 of the same generation of a car model. Three are gone and attained over 250,000 miles each. Mine is the last, 20 years old and running like the first day, brand new. It will outlive me.
THANK YOU, Son.!! That old saying that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree is true here.! Your an awesome man like your Dad.! I always pulled for your Dad every Sunday.! I liked all the underdogs, and cheered them on against the Big Money teams. Lake Speed, Dave Marcus, Jimmy Means, and the others. There are millions of guys all over the world who are interested, and will be thankful for the time, and hard work, and knowledge you are offering to us.! I first saw you on another channel. The one where you,, and your Dad gave the Grand Tour of his shop, and the old Cars, engines, trophies, and everything else you could possibly think of. I have seen you on the Australians channel, LUBRICATION Explained. I know you will have millions of subscribers worldwide if RUclips's algorithm is ever overcome. Question. ?? Whatever happened to all the WYNN'S PRODUCTS locally for sale in the UNITED STATES.?? I remember when they were available in about any store you could go to.!??? I tried years ago to find them, but only saw them available in other countries.! You take care, and take care of your family, and Dad.!! Tell him his old fans still care about him.!!! THANKS AGAIN, for All the help.! I'm just north of you, to the west of CAMEL CITY.!!! Not far at all.!! I've known Mike Dillon since the 5th grade, and been friends since. We know alot of the same people, and places but for everyone's personal privacy, I leave it at that.!! GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CHANNEL, AND FUTURE.!!! 😉😉😉🙂🙂😁❤🥇🥇🥇🙏🙏🙏🙏
I absolutely love your videos and thank you for making this one. It's really helpful to hear a real expert break things down for consumers like me instead of just judging a product entirely off some random oil analysis (which is still helpful but not complete). If possible I would love to hear your thoughts on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as that tends to be my first choice for modern performance street engines. I'm also still trying to figure out which 0w-16 oils I prefer since I have a few newer Toyota's in my family. So far Mobil 1 extended performance and Pennzoil Platinum are all I can find, but it seems that Valvoline advanced 0w-16 might be a better option.
Pennzoil ultra platinum SRT 0W40 is the only oil that keeps my hemi lifters quiet and i have MDS disabled. I've Tried different grades of royal purple, Pennzoil conventional, mobil 1 and amsoil. None of them worked as well has Pennzoil 0w40 but I also use a moly additive. Oil pressure is a few numbers higher, engine is quieter and i see 23mpg highway often with that oil so I know it's doing something. Definitely sticking with them for every vehicle
I have a SRT 6.4 Hemi also. I also feel the Penzzoil I very good. Now tgat my warranty i switched to Ansoil Signature from what i understand Amsoil has better base stock with pao, and easter, higher ZDDP, and seal conditioners. I've also tried the Redline easter core high performance. Between all three oil brands I feel the Amsoil helps tge engine run smoother . I'm curious if you used the Ams Signature, ir Oem ? Also tge additive your using us the Ceratec ?
I can say this is true. I owned a 17 scat pack for a year, when i picked it up used from the dealership (Chevy dealer) it had a slight hemi tick. It had 22k miles on it. I changed the oil to penzoil with the “srt” on the bottle, and the tick went away! And never returned. I now have a 5.7 hemi, I use penzoil platinum full synthetic 5w20 and it does really good.
I think you would find that Valvoline would also be like the Pennzoil with the quiet factor. I say that from experience with them also. With Mobil 1 I always had the slight tick noise.
My experience working at GM dealershis, and also had it explained by GM representatives, that the additives in the High Mileage oils that are meant to stop oil leaks actually swell seals and lead to quickly failure. Even more killing the good seals in a short period of time. I also saw this happen in vehicles being serviced in our shops. Just take care of your vehicle or pay the price later.
Pennzoils new SP /GF-6 rated synthetic blend & full synthetic engine oils are best overall "off the shelf" oils you can buy today. Period. There use of GTL base stock is cleaner & more pure than refined mineral oil base stocks in all OTHER premium oils such as Mobil1, Castrol Edge etc. I've used Pennzoil Platinum / Ultra Platinum in my newer GTDI Ecoboost F150 trucks w/ excellent results. Used oil analysis by Blackstone Labs showed low wear metals present always/overall outstanding engine cond @ 168k mis on my '18 F150 Lariat FX4. Thus im running Pennzoil Platinum in my '22 F150 XLT Tremor w/ OEM Motorcraft filters. -NY
Might be off topic but I gotta agree Penz is the best; I just bought my truck a while back, dark brown oil My first mpg was around 16, 17 on real good days and after their high millage oil. I was consistently and easily pulling off 19 mpg and 18 Never dipped under 18 until I drove really sporty!
You can’t use a UOA to show any oil being superior to another wear wise. You could run mobil 1 vs Pennzoil synthetic side by side on chassis dynos and there would be virtually zero difference in wear between them. It’s actually been done in taxis (white papers are available online). When you get into synthetics (GTL, PAO, polyol ester, hydro cracked group III… there just isn’t any huge advantage one oil base over another unless you are in EXTREME cold or you need a long OCI… just the facts. You can like Pennzoil all day long and it’s a great product. But saying it’s the best oil….theres no such thing
It’s always been my understanding that high milage oils just have more seal conditioners in it. I’m glad i understood correctly. Now, the big question is what is more cost effective, the high milage oil or an off the shelf additive added to regular oil? Which has more conditioner? The HM oil at 6qt or the additive diluted over 6qts? Then you can deduce the price per qt of the conditioner.
I've used high mileage Castrol for many years without failure. If the so called GM dealers theory's were true, you'd hear more complaints about seal failure, and that subject who be more carefully scrutinized. There's no evidence that high mileage oil damages seals. None! The contrary actually!
I’ve been using Mobil 1 synthetic 10 w 30 for years and I recently got interested in the switching. This was a big help towards understanding what they’re doing with the natural gas to motor oil thing. It would appear to be a lot cleaner
Would love to see a video on oil additives. Ceratec, MOS2, STP Ceramic etc etc. Just your thoughts on if they work at all and if there is ever a time / situation to use them
I have used Pennzoil products for years now, in five Honda V6 engines. Our 2006 Odyssey went 200K on 5W-20 and never needed additional oil between changes. Have driven my 2013 Accord 142K so far. Also have 2016, '17, and '18 vehicles... all four using recommended 0W-20 full synthetic, changed according to the built in reminder, and none burn any oil. Some of the quick change places try to up-sell the high mileage oil. I see no reason to shift when they all run like new engines on the recommended fill. Great info... keep the great vids coming!
Just found your channel. Sub'd. Very interesting content for me. I ran a PAO unit back in the 80's down near Deer Park Texas. We used the normal Decene feedstock and Boron fluoride / normal propanol super acid catalyst. Was a good running plant. But we were limited in throughput. So I was put in charge to build a second production unit to triple the capacity. I know the PAO is quite difficult to get almost anything to dissolve in it. And it is fairly difficult to oxidize, as we had only a couple of small fires out in the tank farm area. But once on fire, it was extremely difficult to put out as the water just doesn't stay close to the oil on fire so we did things on an overkill basis and tried to overwhelm it with volume... I also had a friend working just down the street at Lubrizol and he told me that the additive packages for PAO are in his words extreme to get things to work. I will start now, going back and watching a bunch of your older and newer videos. I was friends with several of the researchers up in Cincinnati research and we discussed this topic often, and it seems when I was doing this (for about 5 years or so) the additive package was very dependent on the ester they used to blend with, now it seems I know a bit more about why. For background....... Chem Engineer, getting old now, and retired. But always interested in the chemistry more than the engineering. But sadly, the graduate salaries on the Chem Engineer was about double the Chemist salary so my choice was prudent for my goals...
Great comment! Do you think compiter scuence and AI will disrupt what it is to be a chemist/material science engineer? How would that change the job opportunities of this field?
@gatorstupor I do think that AI will point the future engineers towards solutions they would not otherwise consider. And with more and more younger engineers veering off the hard science topics and towards computer based engineering, some of the "harder" thinkers will get left behind. Sometimes, the simpler solution is the better solution...
For those watching from Oceania/Australia. Sulfur content in petrol/gasoline in Australia is up to 500% (5 times) higher than US standards, up to 50 ppm (vs 10 PPM in USA), used to be up to 150ppm....
Some combinations do have their advantages though. I used to have a 2006 Grand Caravan with a slightly abused 3.8L V6 (prior owner). Day one, it was burning oil at a rate of 1-1/2 quarts per 5,000 mile oil change using 5w20. I'm not much into addditives, so i tried Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, even Kendall oil. Even ran some Lucas oil. The magic combo was the Valvoline MaxLife synthetic blend oil, as it reduced my burn rate to less than 1/2 a quart between oil changes. Since then, I've been a strong supporter of Valvoline high mileage motor oils. And yes, the brand of oil filters does aid in the longevity of oils as well. Used to be a Wix user, but saw lots of cut open inspections and saw glue chunks floating around in their canisters from factory. New filters, too. I'm more into either Mobil 1 or NAPA premium filters now, even Motorcraft.
I believe WIX is the manufacturer of the Napa Gold oil filters, although if memory serves they're better quality than the standard WIX ones. Used to work for a Hyundai dealership and one of the parts guys cut open a Napa and a WIX and the Napa was better constructed
Really absorbing the meaning of the oil recipes, thx. Are you going to do a series on oil friction reducing additives? I've been die hard for Prolong for all my gas engines for thirty years and would appreciate your analysis.
Very interesting, I bought Pennzoil ultra platinum, truck has over 80,000 miles. Doesn't use oil, will the ultra be as good as anything or should I use a high mileage or another oil?
Hey, Lake, I hear people say all the time that Pennzoil and Quaker State are the same stuff in different color bottles. How about a test to clear the air? 5w30 QS Syn VS 5w30 PZ Syn.
Hey yes I like to know what the difference is in Castrol oil . Some people say it’s wax based and gums up engines. Well how about their synthetic line ?
That's what all the old guys used to say I think it's because all the Pennsylvania grade oils were high paraffin especially the non-detergent ones and they would gum up the engines if you didn't change them on a regular basis I used to hear that growing up a lot about Pennzoil Quaker State and castrol
I really appreciate your knowledge, your enthusiasm & your civility. I watch several auto presenters who have great ethics & knowledge. ------- You're one of the good guy's! 🙂
Love listening to you explain all the components of motor oil! Really wish you would leave the background noise out. It's a distraction and you just don't need the fill.
A few years ago in my 4.6 crown vic, went to a synthetic, what I noticed was oil usage was half QT to 3000 miles. I switched back to conventional oil and did not have that problem anymore. Why would that be?
@@themotoroilgeek it’s because the synthetic oil thins down at operating temperature. Synthetic oils and conventional oils use the same additive detergents
@@tundy4959 nyet! u watched any of these vid's?! the whole point is that each oil is different in additive detergent levels and other chemicals that all together, do this, that or another thing. Might want to learn things before making stmts here!
On your advice, I'm using Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic in my 06 Duratec 3.0L V6. It has 236,000 miles and it leaks a little bit of oil from everywhere. Maybe the seal conditioners will help with that. I'll be doing my 3rd oil change in about 800 miles. Changing at a 3,000 interval.
Just a shame that the oil companies don't put a lot of this information on the bottle or their website. Most people wouldn't care, but some of us nutters do care about this sort of thing! Interested with your comments re Ca in the oil affecting other additives and the whole TBN stuff. I drive a diesel....food for thought on next oil change!
I had a Cruze that got totaled with over 200,000 miles that required Dexos oil. I used the cheapest oil that I could find on the shelf, mixed brands, viscosities, types, changed it every 10,000 miles and it ran perfect. I am sure this Platinum oil may be better but I think it is an overkill for a daily driver. Loved the video and am subscribing.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Companies spend billions on marketing and the majority of the people fall for it. I myself like to think outside the box and prove it can be done with no negative consequences. Since the Cruze, I now have a G6 and have been following the same routine for years and it gets me to work Monday through Friday.
@@Olds_Pwr It's not "falling for" something. The engines are specifically designed to use a certain oil. Many modern engines have very narrow oil passages, thus need very light oils. Changing oils was fine on old cars, and people did that, but everything now needs very specific fluids and oils.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Thank you for your concern on this subject but do you have any thoughts on how I am able to get hundreds of thousands of miles on engines while doing what I have been doing for years?
@@Olds_Pwr All I’m saying is you’re supposed to use the recommended viscosity. You don’t have to buy the expensive brands, that’s not what I’m saying, but modern engines need very specific viscosities. Either you lucked out or have an older engine with a wider tolerance. Ask any mechanic worth his salt and he’ll tell you to not mess around with viscosity, use what the manual says. It’s also a good idea to find a favorite brand and stick with it.
This is best video yet from L.S Jr. 🎉🎉🎉 Many thumbs up. Pls do one test for Shell Ultra 5W 40. Boron said to be 200ppm and 464 degree F flash point. GTL base oil. Why they would not stick onto container a label stating the typical spec of their additives in the oil?. Just as an example. "magnesium 300 to 350ppm, calcium 800 to 900ppm, boron 100 to 125ppm, zinc 800 to 900ppm. Phosporous 600 to 625. Moly 60 to 80ppm. POA ester 8 to 10%. Etc etc" Will make buyer's selection & buying secision much easier.
I remember when detergent motor oil came out. Yes i am old. I remember people saying that stuff has additives and it will ruin your engine. From a man thatvworked on engines inthe late 50s and early 60s oil today is so much better today but also the engines are so much better
Today's engines don't have the tolerance of the older motors, I had a 62 Chevy with a rod knock drove it that way for almost 2 years back in the 70s try that with today's engines.
I learned that even if your oil filler cap calls for 5W-20 you can use 5W-30 especially, if you have oil consumption it will reduce oil consumption with the thicker oil it will slow down the consumption and will increase mpg. 🙂
Thicker oil will not always reduce consumption. Many years ago, I had an old Ford 400, which had drain back issues out of the head, the oil would pool and destroy the valve seals on the cylinders at the back of the engine. The motor would suck the oil into the cylinder and burn it, until the spark plug would coke up and stop it from firing, the gunked up the rings, so more oil in cylinder. Using a higher heat range spark plug kept it running, replaced head to fix valve seals but still burned a lot of oil. If I put 10w-30 in it would burn more, but 5w-30 would not burn as much, but would rattle too much. Settled on just adding a quart of each when the oil light would blink at idle. It was bad enough, I would buy two cases of Sears cheapest oil, one 5w, one 10w-30 and put them in the rear seat footwells. Had the car a couple years before selling it to a guy with an old f-150 that wanted the block.
This is the sort of information I have been looking for. I've a new vehicle with 2.0L Ecoboost, and before I decide on which oil I want to use for the long haul, I want to learn something about the oils themselves and their differing characteristics and potential benefits over each other. As I am leaning towards a small number of brands, Pennzoil being one of them, this has been really quite helpful in educating myself. Now I need to scour your channel and see if you mention the other brands I'm considering too. BTW: I work in a dealership and can use the OEM grade full synthetic Motorcraft oil, and get it at a discount, but I want to be assured I'm protecting my investment the best way possible, even if it costs me a couple dollars more w/each oil change. And I don't recommend or subscribe to the manufacturers extended oil change intervals as I've seen the good and bad to following that practice. One needs to be honest with the affects of their operating environment and the demands their driving habits on what required maintenance should be followed.
Thanks for the comment. We have several other videos on the channel that should be helpful. The key is not picking a brand first. That should be the last choice. Start with the application and work from there. Then choose the brand you trust to deliver that product consistently. Since you have an EcoBoost, the key is getting a product designed for direct injection engines. The Motorcraft is a great oil to start with. Do used oil analysis to establish a baseline and then try a different oil (like the Pennzoil Ultra) to see if it actually reduces wear for your engine.
@@themotoroilgeek My big concern it first matching the recommended specifications, then determining which one might be less prone to promote varnish and reduce wear. I do not plan to exceed 4K intervals, keeping closer to 3-3.5K as my standard. Much of that is based on my environment, living in the north east, then on the style and type of driving I do. Since I'm older now I don't outright run my vehicles hard, but more spirited, nonetheless. Am I wrong in thinking something like the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Castrol Edge full synthetic would be better again varnish production and wear vs. the OEM semi-synthetic oil?
@@staciecarverd8136 i like your line of thinking! Match the specs and then go with a full synthetic. That will reduce varnish formation and handle the turbo heat better. Used oil analysis is the best way to determine which oil provides the best wear protection for your environment and driving style.
I just found this channel and I can't get enough. Ive been using pennzoil platinum or ultra platinum and wix synthetic filters for over 20 years. One of our vehicles is a 2010 dodge with the 3.5 V6. It just turned 200k and is still quiet as a mouse. Isn't that unheard of? It's got to be the oil.
So I got Mobile one high millage oil and changed the oil after over 200 K in miles then got 5 MPG better in millage. Thanks so much for your tips and results are there. On a Prius V. I am sold!
Do a before and after video of high mileage engine cylinders before and after adding coolant to engine intake, and compare to using seafoam and techron. Amazing videos, thanks !
I exclusively have used Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic in all my twenty year old/plus 200K cars (Honda/Toyota). Maybe if I owned a Ford EcoBoost or Dodge Hemi I would change to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Some engines need all the help they can get.
Thank you. Finally, someone setting the world straight on TBN. I also hope the Amsoil "experts" listened to what you said about PAO and additives and realize the term 10-0% and full mean the same thing. Amsoil has some Group III in them so the additives can mix. I think Amsoil makes a great product but they should teach all of their "experts" it is their additive package that makes their oil perform, not the "100%" synthetic base, which it is not.
Exactly. There is no such thing as a "100% synthetic" oil. All motor oils come from the ground as crude. What you're paying extra for is more refining and a better additive package. Amsoil does not even make their own oil, they buy it from a bulk dealer and just add their additive package.
Is oxidation measured as per ASTM E2412? I know Aral 0w40 is fully synthetic by the German definition (Vollsynthetisches) but on the German oil-club they say that while it has an oxidation value of 10.0 it has no esters! How can that be possible?
Yes, Oxidation is measured via FTIR, and for a PAO oil to have a new Oxidation value of 10, there is an Ester in the additive package (most likely a dispersant), but not as a co-base stock.
Great stuff! Would love to see a comparo/discussion about the Euro oils...VW502 vs. 504 etc. 0W40 M1, Liquimoly 5W40s, etc. The LM MoS2 or Ceratec woudl be cool to hear about your take.
Euro formula oil is fine, so long as you use in an engine that specifies that kind of oil. Euro formula oils contain additives that American and Asian auto manufacturers don't want you using, because of the effect on the engine and/or emissions system. High quality API certified oils like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1 EP provide more than enough protection for US and Asian engines and meet all manufacturer specifications for oil used in their vehicles.
I've been using Pennzoil Platinum in my 2014 Ram 5.7 and 2014 Ford Fusion 1.5 Eco Boost since we bought them. 212K on the Fusion, 185K on the Ram. They both still run great. Looks like I'll switch to the high mileage flavor. I've been going 7500 miles between changes.
Congratulations for the wonderful video! I know that the reverse hydrolysis of ESTER produces weak acids, since Calcium acts only on strong acids, isn't it dangerous to have a high ESTER content in the engine? Regarding PAO, I know that it is not very compatible with the elastomers of the gaskets, is it also for this reason that it is mixed with ESTER?
Great question! A high ester content oil is more susceptible to hydrolysis, so that is a good reason not to run a fully Ester oil in a daily driver. In regards to the seals, a specific type of ester can be used to help with seals (if needed).
I been using valvoline, they were out of the regular high mileage I got the synthetic one. Which seemed to help my oil burning problems greatly. I figure it helped to free up piston rings in my 260,000 mile car.
My 1999 Camry 2.2l LOVES Pennzoils Platinum High Mileage 5W-30. I was using Walmart synthetic but was getting smoke at startup. That's changed to no to minimal smoke at start up with the Pennzoil.
My car does not leak oil. I switched from Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5W-30 to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30. My oil consumption reduced from one quart in 1800 miles to one quart in 4000 miles. Does the high mileage oil also reduce oil consumption due to losing oil by the piston rings?
Please do a Platinum vs Ultra Platinum comparison. Not only Please but Pretty Please. 😁😁 I have switched from Mobil One to Penzoil Platinum to Pennzoil ultra platinum. Oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum is much less than with Mobil One. Thanks for the Great videos.
Do you have a video regarding Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 vs Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w-30? I'm wondering the difference between the two, but can't find a video on that.
Most high mileage oil will be slightly higher viscosity when new and contain higher amount of seal conditioner to help with an engine that has been loosened up over time.
I bought a 93 Ford ranger with 223,000 miles for a work rat, 13 years ago. It has the 2.3l 5sp 2wd. I'm an asphalt guy and always had a work vehicle that had gotten descent mileage and one that didn't break the bank because I get pretty dirty working and don't want to have to worry about a car or truck because of work sites. So, I run Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend in ranger since I bought it and it now has 508,000+ miles and still rocking the original engine transmission and rear end! No leaks or ticks taps or raps. 3000-3500 oil changes
What should I use in a tired Chevy 350? I believe it’s around a 1975? Can’t see the casting numbers as they are tucked into the firewall. It’s all stock as far as I can tell.
5:55 so what’s the restrictions on a 10w40? If I jump up to a 10w40 would I get more zddp in the oil? This would be used in my lawnmower so the higher zinc would be nice.
lawn mowers run HOTTER than ur car, so u should use an oil like AMSOIL small engine oil, 'ASEQT'/10w30, it will take the HEAT ur small engine makes... lawn mowers do run HOTTER than ur car...
If you ever wrote a book I wanna buy 2. One autographed and the other as a textbook that I would refer to on a daily basis. So much damn good information.
A lot of this went over my head, maybe a chart at the very end to see the differences back to back on the three oils might have been helpful
I concur. maybe more charts with comparisons to other oils. charts, graphs, etc.
or at least a nice Venn Diagram.
-Ktoes Harris
its really simple tho lol
I agree with all the above, the bottom line is ???
Definitely needs a chart summary. Too much talk. More charts.
I graduated in 1984 with a degree in Chemistry. I absolutely love stuff like this. Thanks for taking the time to produce these vids.
Glad you enjoy it!
Thanx for your work. Can you tell everyone what brand & type oil you personally use in your vehicles please?@@themotoroilgeek
@@thegeneraljoe67 I don't have a specific brand that I use. Instead, the application dictates which chemistry I use and then I pick the brand I trust to deliver that chemistry. I also test different products in my daily driver via used oil analysis. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is what's in it now.
I graduated undergrad with Degree in physics minor in bio and chemistry and I just like but don't love this. Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos even though I only like not love them.
@@themotoroilgeekrecommendation for a 2000 Toro Groundsmaster 325-D (Mitsubishi diesel engine) with over 3,000 hours? I recently took on this mower and am in the process of changing the fluids. The engine oil had 250hrs on it & I’m unsure of age, but I would guess 5 years? The oil was BLACK. Currently have gone through 3 engine oil changes in about 1-hour of run time using Penzoil conventional 10w-30 oil and it’s finally starting to lighten-up in color. I live in MN & mow 4-8hrs/wk for roughly 26 weeks annually. I typically change my oil based on OE recommendation or when it appears to be getting dirty (darker golden brown).
I started watching these videos yesterday. I've learned more about oils in the last 2 days than I learned in the last 15 years. I love these videos
Thank you!
Good advice here, very thorough breakdown! I was very young in 1963 but I remember my dad got a tutorial from the local Ford dealer as he was handed the keys to the baby blue Country Squire. Quick first oil change, vary highway speeds, don't race rpms especially when cold, 'baby' it from a stop. (trans care was mentioned too) After 3,000 miles he could relax but still change every 3 to 3,500 miles. The engine was a 260 v8 I remember from the cool front fender logo. Great car that served for many years until Pennsylvania road salt finally ate the body and wood grain.
Salt is really a killer man I hate it.... So many good vehicles go to waste it's just sad :(
Yes all good advice. That fake woodgrain suffers from road salt...
Fluid Flim really helps prevent salt corruption!
Your Dad was on to it. Those rules still apply.
I live in PA as well. Road salt is a KILLER!
I started using Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic platinum after watching Project Farm videos on the best oils. This confirms his findings.
But his results differ based on the viscosity😬😬😬
@@TGears314 such as?
@@TGears314 no shit
What about pennzoil ultra platinum vs pennzoil high mileage vs pennzoil plat
@jason200912 I use the platinum mileage on my car & just platinum on my wife's. I did use Royal Purple for years and got over 300k on my G6. I then had a mechanic friend tell me they changed their formula and it wasn't as good. He recommended Amsoil and I used that for a few years without complaint. Then Project Farm turned me onto the Pennzoil products with his comparison of Amsoil and Pennzoil. They are similar, but Pennzoil is cheaper. This is just my opinion
In the transportation business, mainly as a mechanic, for almost 46 years, and I never thought I would find motor oil so interesting. Thanks for another great video!
So happy you teach us to learn chemistry without being afraid. I actually learned a lot. I wish all the science teachers could warch and learn too.
Thanks!
I'm an average gear head and have tried to watch/listen to other reports on the subject, almost fell asleep a few times. You my friend, I could listen to you for hours on how to tie shoe laces, great video, been using Platinum 5w30 in everything for a long time. Thanx for quantifying my choice.
Thanks!
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is worth the extra cost over regular Pennzoil Platinum, especially when purchased at places like Walmart where the difference in price is not that much. Mobil 1 EP is also a very good oil, definitely better than regular Mobil 1.
Great job again Lake! Really appreciate your professionalism and passion to educate the masses on lubrication. Many thanks!
Thank you
Wow, thanks Lake Speed Jr!!!
That was better than a college class and the info kept coming, firing on every cylinder!
I appreciate you hammering the point about “don’t need high TBN!”
Started running penzoil thanks to project farm oil video from many years ago. Was impressed how it was just a few points behind AMS oil.
Far cheaper too.
*pennzoil ultra platinum
@@kanyeeastlolz yes I use ultra platinum on my raptor, platinum on my wife’s car and AMS oil on my ZL1.
Amsoil over pencil, less sludge over time if you’ve ever torn your engine apart
@@EnjoyCarI don’t necessarily disagree with your position. That said, you don’t have to dig too deep to find disdainful practices of any large corporation. It’s just a matter of will and effort.
Great Video I work for SHELL and the site I'm based out of is the largest ALPHA OLEFIN Producer in the world so some amount of what we produce ends up in Motor Oils. I also worked at the GTL Plant in Qutar and it was a very impressive place. The size of the Rotating Equipment is quite impressive especially in the Oxygen Unit, since the front end of the conversion requires tremendous amounts of oxygen. Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks!
How is the quality of the Shell advanced ultra fully synthetic oil sir...for motorbikes...specially the Shell advanced ultra 10w 40 fully synthetic oil...please suggest...
So refreshing to get knowledge and science based comments instead of opinion and belief driven affirmations ! Thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'd rather go with the belief based verdict
Looking forward to your observations after running the Synthetic in your Porsche. Always interesting videos, THANKS!
Thanks for the great analysis and info on Pennzoil. Mobil 1 used to be my go to oil for years but now Pennzoil Platinum is and have noticed a big difference in engine performance and condition at OCI!
Thanks for sharing!
Just switched to Pennzoil ultra premium high mileage 5w30. 2013 Hyundai 2 liter 120k miles. Mpg increased by 2 in town and 3 highway. Was running syn 5w30 by Walmart.
@@oldgringo66 Hands down the best oil I’ve ever used!!
Just FYI Project Farm made a test of all main Pennzoil Oils and according to their analysis Platinum demonstrated worse performance in comparison with Full Synthetic. Ultra Platinum took the 1sr place. Check this one as you may find it interesting: m.ruclips.net/video/D3qFfAEp9AU/видео.html
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil 1 EP are worth the few extra dollars (per 5-quart jug). If you really want a quality oil at a reasonable price, these are the two that should be compared, instead of regular Pennzoil Platinum or regular Mobil 1.
I’m only 5 minutes in and already love your TBN/SP opinion. First I’ve heard someone explain it like that instead of poo-pooing the new oils.
The reason people are questioning the new spec is because not all of the brands who manufacture GF-6/SP certified oil do a good job plain and simple. They just don't, and Pennzoil isn't who I'm referring to.
Some of the others just do not have adequate additive packages. A lot SN/SN+ oil were perfectly fine but from my understanding the push for the new spec was based not on concern for longevity of the engine. Fuel economy was a big factor. Maybe I'm wrong I don't know.
@@DavidTMSNi first thought that too, but he has videos showing why these new low viscosidade oils work different....
The Pennzoil platinum may also contain ashless anti oxidants and organic friction modifiers that may not show up on any type of elemental analysis, consider another big part of Dexos1 Generation 3 was lowering the ash threshold from 1.0% to 0.9%. Also having less moly in the the full syn may be that the blends are using a dinuclear type of moly while the full syn is use a trinuclear variety which is more effective in a lower concentration.
Some nerdy stuff, I like it.
Some nerdy stuff, I like it.
Indubitably 😅
Huh
Given the (to me at least) low moly levels in almost all newer oils (as compared to the older, pre-SN spec oils), I thought that they ALL are using the newer 'trimer' (trinuclear) type of moly, which is more effective than the old(er) 'dimer' (dinuclear) stuff, therefore much less of it is needed to get the same results/effect. ??
*_I noticed my 97 Honda Civic rear main seal dosent leak as much ever since I switched from cheap conventional 5w-30 oil to fully synthetic high mileage penzoil 5w-30. I can say it actually works!_*
Use AT-205
@@paularc1899 Yes, but the price of At-205 has risen 50% in 3 years.
I use Hi-Mileage and also bump up to 10w-30 during the summer months (April -Oct). 90% of my drips are gone! When I go back to 5W Hi-mileage in the winter , I hope it stays just as dry.
I had seal leaks stop completely with pp hm oil. A car that was dripping down the pan to no longer dripping the next change.
Great for beaters
The synthetic causes the seals to expand in conventional engines.
I'd like to see a Valvoline 3 oil comparison like this. Very informative. Thank you!
Thank you!
Yes please do a valvoline breakdown
@@themotoroilgeek please review the new valvoline restore and protect.
@@vermontvermont9292 Coming soon!
@@themotoroilgeek yes! I'm currently running it now. 487 miles so far on it. Btw, what would YOU use for a 1.5L direct injection turbocharged engine? There's so many choices, I had been running castrol edge 0w20 full synthetic. I wanted to switch it up though. Just curious on your thoughts.
Really appreciate your analysis breakdowns. Would like to see a Valvoline comparison sometime. I have used that brand for years, but after checking out this Pennzoil video I’m probably going to try it my next oil change.
Great suggestion!
@@themotoroilgeek - I'm with ^.
Thank you for taking the time to clarify. My passion for machines and their intricate workings is something I've cherished since I was young, carrying that Honda HR217. Whether it's my choice in top-grade oils for my machines or diving into the nitty-gritty of TBN values, I strive to know and provide the best. Living in Belgium has only reinforced my appreciation for high standards and quality. I'm always eager to expand my knowledge, and I'm grateful for this clear explanation. Here's to always learning and prioritizing quality in all we do!
I'm the kinda guy that puts Amso 10w30 SS Diesel in his GCV530 V-twin engine. or XL Boosted. And ZROD in in his Dolmar blowers. Rowe - hightec synth rs sae 5w-40 is next is next on the menu.
Anyway. Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Could you test Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic while you're at it? I'm curious how these stack up against one another. I've used M1 for years now, and I've wondered if it's worth the extra expense.
This is why I hate the oil standards, they make changes and update certain specs but then they don't bother making the proper adjustments on things like TBN?? Another great informative video!
Please do a Platinum vs Ultra Platinum comparison
Please
Please do. when I saw project farms results I was surprised. I heard someone say Platinum= Ultra platinum + Full synthetic.
They're both base GTL oils, The ultra has a better add pack
@@TonyTundra5.7 Agree, regarding the add pack, as confirmed by my Blackstone test reports.
Im not living in a little town and you cant find ultra platinum anywhere.
@@metatronmen2431 Amazon
Thank you, people don't realize how lubricants make such a longevity difference. Even important in the days of hand cranked bulk dispensers into tin capped glass bottles.
Great hearing an expert break down the components of different oils and additives, that even I can understand !!! Great Video, THANKS
Thank you
Thanks for the great info NOT for the distracting background music.
Thanks for the feedback.
Hey, thanks for the enlightening info.@@themotoroilgeek
everyone's a critic. I thought the music was low enough...
@@bjfire01 I guess you're right, everyone is a critic.
Would you be willing to do a video comparing some of the top-of-the-line full synthetic high mileage motor oils like Pennzoil, Mobil1, Valvoline, and Castrol? I feel like it would benefit a lot of people who own and maintain older vehicles. I have been using Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage on both of my cars that are at or above 200,000mi. I've gone with this based on Project Farms video from a few years ago, but would like to see some more analysis on whether there are better options.
This would be interesting, I have an older model truck, 1992, it has the stock 5.0 liter in it with over 200k miles. I would be interested in knowing if the newer or synthetic oils would be helpful or harmful to an older engine like this that may not have been designed with the newer oils in mind.
Lake another great video. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.
Interesting that you mentioned a Forester boxer! Just did a rering in my '03 Forester because of it's drinking problem of 1 qt per 1000 miles or less. Didn't do anything else but changed the rings. Well, of course, new head gaskets and other related gaskets.
I found the oil return holes behind the oil rings to be completely plugged full of brown carbon. I started attempting to clean them with a drill bit and my fingers. Moved up to putting that bit into a drill, and it still was tough cleaning them!
I've put just about a 1000 miles on the new rings and haven't noticed any oil consumption. Power is up as well as millage from 22 to pushing 26.
There's over 200,000 miles on the car. Crosshatch still visible in the cylinders.
I can tell you from experience, these are all very good quality oils. The first 75,000 miles, almost every single oil change was Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional. After that I started using Pennzoil 5W-30 high mileage oil. Normally use a Bosch premium oil filter or other premium filter. I’ve never tried the fully synthetic. I change my oil every 4000 - 5000 miles. I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4.0 V6 with 145,000 miles that I bought brand new, and it still runs like brand new. It’s very easy changing the oil myself.
I have a 04 Dodge Ram Hemi with 300,000 on it. Runs like brand new.
@@rdallas81 I have a 2003 Corolla with 395,000 and it still drive like brand new.
Change every 3000
@@HubG950I have 2005 corolla with 330000....on supertech conventional 5w30 running like brand new.
New subscriber! My 2003 Avalon runs great on Pennzoil full synthetic-256 k and counting. 5 K change interval! Thanks for all your hard work 🙏👍
I pretty much have no clue what you were talking about through this entire video. But what it did make me realize is that oil is complicated and that I need to stick to whatever oil the manufacturer recommends and change it often.
LOL, sorry about that, but you did come to the right conclusion.
🤣😂👍
Very interesting. I just change oil every 5k miles. Of course, i believe these differences will show up over time. With frequent changes i think that time will be will into the future, unless youre driving a Hyundai or a Chrysler
I am at the same level of comprehension. Fortunately, one doesn't have to know much to be able to function in this world. All one has to do is pay attention to the car servicing, do it earlier than the manual suggests (all the mfg. wants is for the car to do 3 years or 36,000 miles -which is really only two years). Oil changes? I take a factory filter in. I give multiple copies of what is to be examined or lubed (oh, yes, you can lube places under the car although the mfgs. don't say so). The family has had 4 of the same generation of a car model. Three are gone and attained over 250,000 miles each. Mine is the last, 20 years old and running like the first day, brand new. It will outlive me.
THANK YOU, Son.!! That old saying that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree is true here.! Your an awesome man like your Dad.! I always pulled for your Dad every Sunday.! I liked all the underdogs, and cheered them on against the Big Money teams. Lake Speed, Dave Marcus, Jimmy Means, and the others. There are millions of guys all over the world who are interested, and will be thankful for the time, and hard work, and knowledge you are offering to us.! I first saw you on another channel. The one where you,, and your Dad gave the Grand Tour of his shop, and the old Cars, engines, trophies, and everything else you could possibly think of. I have seen you on the Australians channel, LUBRICATION Explained. I know you will have millions of subscribers worldwide if RUclips's algorithm is ever overcome. Question. ?? Whatever happened to all the WYNN'S PRODUCTS locally for sale in the UNITED STATES.?? I remember when they were available in about any store you could go to.!??? I tried years ago to find them, but only saw them available in other countries.! You take care, and take care of your family, and Dad.!! Tell him his old fans still care about him.!!! THANKS AGAIN, for All the help.! I'm just north of you, to the west of CAMEL CITY.!!! Not far at all.!! I've known Mike Dillon since the 5th grade, and been friends since. We know alot of the same people, and places but for everyone's personal privacy, I leave it at that.!! GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CHANNEL, AND FUTURE.!!! 😉😉😉🙂🙂😁❤🥇🥇🥇🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for the very kind words.
I absolutely love your videos and thank you for making this one. It's really helpful to hear a real expert break things down for consumers like me instead of just judging a product entirely off some random oil analysis (which is still helpful but not complete). If possible I would love to hear your thoughts on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as that tends to be my first choice for modern performance street engines.
I'm also still trying to figure out which 0w-16 oils I prefer since I have a few newer Toyota's in my family. So far Mobil 1 extended performance and Pennzoil Platinum are all I can find, but it seems that Valvoline advanced 0w-16 might be a better option.
How about you sending a small sample of Toyota's own 0W16 or 0W20 engine for L.S. Jr to do a test in his lab? 🤔🤔👏👏👏
@@whlawson5812 might have to look into, I was thinking of comparing Toyota oem oil with valvoline advanced
I learned more in this video then 14 years of following BITOG forum
AMS Oil makes a full synthetic 0w-16 its suspost to be of high quality
I occasionally hang out on BITOG but the the arrogance there is palpable 😄@@pacsunzr2
Pennzoil ultra platinum SRT 0W40 is the only oil that keeps my hemi lifters quiet and i have MDS disabled. I've Tried different grades of royal purple, Pennzoil conventional, mobil 1 and amsoil. None of them worked as well has Pennzoil 0w40 but I also use a moly additive. Oil pressure is a few numbers higher, engine is quieter and i see 23mpg highway often with that oil so I know it's doing something. Definitely sticking with them for every vehicle
The moly engine additive is amazing!
I have a SRT 6.4 Hemi also. I also feel the Penzzoil I very good. Now tgat my warranty i switched to Ansoil Signature from what i understand Amsoil has better base stock with pao, and easter, higher ZDDP, and seal conditioners. I've also tried the Redline easter core high performance. Between all three oil brands I feel the Amsoil helps tge engine run smoother . I'm curious if you used the Ams Signature, ir Oem ?
Also tge additive your using us the Ceratec ?
I can say this is true. I owned a 17 scat pack for a year, when i picked it up used from the dealership (Chevy dealer) it had a slight hemi tick. It had 22k miles on it. I changed the oil to penzoil with the “srt” on the bottle, and the tick went away! And never returned. I now have a 5.7 hemi, I use penzoil platinum full synthetic 5w20 and it does really good.
I think you would find that Valvoline would also be like the Pennzoil with the quiet factor. I say that from experience with them also. With Mobil 1 I always had the slight tick noise.
My experience working at GM dealershis, and also had it explained by GM representatives, that the additives in the High Mileage oils that are meant to stop oil leaks actually swell seals and lead to quickly failure. Even more killing the good seals in a short period of time. I also saw this happen in vehicles being serviced in our shops. Just take care of your vehicle or pay the price later.
Pennzoils new SP /GF-6 rated synthetic blend & full synthetic engine oils are best overall "off the shelf" oils you can buy today. Period. There use of GTL base stock is cleaner & more pure than refined mineral oil base stocks in all OTHER premium oils such as Mobil1, Castrol Edge etc. I've used Pennzoil Platinum / Ultra Platinum in my newer GTDI Ecoboost F150 trucks w/ excellent results. Used oil analysis by Blackstone Labs showed low wear metals present always/overall outstanding engine cond @ 168k mis on my '18 F150 Lariat FX4. Thus im running Pennzoil Platinum in my '22 F150 XLT Tremor w/ OEM Motorcraft filters. -NY
Might be off topic but I gotta agree Penz is the best; I just bought my truck a while back, dark brown oil
My first mpg was around 16, 17 on real good days and after their high millage oil. I was consistently and easily pulling off 19 mpg and 18
Never dipped under 18 until I drove really sporty!
You can’t use a UOA to show any oil being superior to another wear wise. You could run mobil 1 vs Pennzoil synthetic side by side on chassis dynos and there would be virtually zero difference in wear between them. It’s actually been done in taxis (white papers are available online). When you get into synthetics (GTL, PAO, polyol ester, hydro cracked group III… there just isn’t any huge advantage one oil base over another unless you are in EXTREME cold or you need a long OCI… just the facts. You can like Pennzoil all day long and it’s a great product. But saying it’s the best oil….theres no such thing
mobil buys gtl base stocks from sopus now. tell us more how mobil isnt as good
Finally Someone I feel I can trust, and with all the knowledge and expertise and REAL WORLD experience to be able to tell the truth!
Thank you!
i was hoping you had your own channel! saw you on Stapleton's channel and thought you'd be an interesting one to crank out some videos. Glad you do!
Thanks!
It’s always been my understanding that high milage oils just have more seal conditioners in it. I’m glad i understood correctly.
Now, the big question is what is more cost effective, the high milage oil or an off the shelf additive added to regular oil? Which has more conditioner? The HM oil at 6qt or the additive diluted over 6qts? Then you can deduce the price per qt of the conditioner.
I've used high mileage Castrol for many years without failure. If the so called GM dealers theory's were true, you'd hear more complaints about seal failure, and that subject who be more carefully scrutinized. There's no evidence that high mileage oil damages seals. None! The contrary actually!
Thanks Lake. Great job. Good info. God bless. Happy trails.
I’ve been using Mobil 1 synthetic 10 w 30 for years and I recently got interested in the switching. This was a big help towards understanding what they’re doing with the natural gas to motor oil thing. It would appear to be a lot cleaner
Thank you for dispelling the TBN test! Too many people base their decision on that single number.
You are welcome and I agree. Too many people are hung up on TBN.
Probably I commented already. Seen this video like 5 times. Great content as usual. Love the info you provide always on each one of your videos.
Would love to see a video on oil additives. Ceratec, MOS2, STP Ceramic etc etc. Just your thoughts on if they work at all and if there is ever a time / situation to use them
+ LubeGard BioTech, Molygen, RLI, Torco Moly additives, the good ol' boy truckers fave MotorKote, etc.
I have used Pennzoil products for years now, in five Honda V6 engines. Our 2006 Odyssey went 200K on 5W-20 and never needed additional oil between changes. Have driven my 2013 Accord 142K so far. Also have 2016, '17, and '18 vehicles... all four using recommended 0W-20 full synthetic, changed according to the built in reminder, and none burn any oil. Some of the quick change places try to up-sell the high mileage oil. I see no reason to shift when they all run like new engines on the recommended fill. Great info... keep the great vids coming!
Just found your channel. Sub'd. Very interesting content for me. I ran a PAO unit back in the 80's down near Deer Park Texas. We used the normal Decene feedstock and Boron fluoride / normal propanol super acid catalyst. Was a good running plant. But we were limited in throughput. So I was put in charge to build a second production unit to triple the capacity.
I know the PAO is quite difficult to get almost anything to dissolve in it. And it is fairly difficult to oxidize, as we had only a couple of small fires out in the tank farm area. But once on fire, it was extremely difficult to put out as the water just doesn't stay close to the oil on fire so we did things on an overkill basis and tried to overwhelm it with volume...
I also had a friend working just down the street at Lubrizol and he told me that the additive packages for PAO are in his words extreme to get things to work.
I will start now, going back and watching a bunch of your older and newer videos. I was friends with several of the researchers up in Cincinnati research and we discussed this topic often, and it seems when I was doing this (for about 5 years or so) the additive package was very dependent on the ester they used to blend with, now it seems I know a bit more about why.
For background....... Chem Engineer, getting old now, and retired. But always interested in the chemistry more than the engineering. But sadly, the graduate salaries on the Chem Engineer was about double the Chemist salary so my choice was prudent for my goals...
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. We are going to get deeper into the chemistry in future videos.
Great comment! Do you think compiter scuence and AI will disrupt what it is to be a chemist/material science engineer? How would that change the job opportunities of this field?
@gatorstupor I do think that AI will point the future engineers towards solutions they would not otherwise consider. And with more and more younger engineers veering off the hard science topics and towards computer based engineering, some of the "harder" thinkers will get left behind. Sometimes, the simpler solution is the better solution...
@lpconserv6074 hey thanks for your input!
For those watching from Oceania/Australia.
Sulfur content in petrol/gasoline in Australia is up to 500% (5 times) higher than US standards, up to 50 ppm (vs 10 PPM in USA), used to be up to 150ppm....
Some combinations do have their advantages though. I used to have a 2006 Grand Caravan with a slightly abused 3.8L V6 (prior owner). Day one, it was burning oil at a rate of 1-1/2 quarts per 5,000 mile oil change using 5w20. I'm not much into addditives, so i tried Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, even Kendall oil. Even ran some Lucas oil. The magic combo was the Valvoline MaxLife synthetic blend oil, as it reduced my burn rate to less than 1/2 a quart between oil changes. Since then, I've been a strong supporter of Valvoline high mileage motor oils.
And yes, the brand of oil filters does aid in the longevity of oils as well. Used to be a Wix user, but saw lots of cut open inspections and saw glue chunks floating around in their canisters from factory. New filters, too. I'm more into either Mobil 1 or NAPA premium filters now, even Motorcraft.
The Valvoline Max Life Blend is an amazing oil. I've seen great results with that oil in many engines.
I believe WIX is the manufacturer of the Napa Gold oil filters, although if memory serves they're better quality than the standard WIX ones. Used to work for a Hyundai dealership and one of the parts guys cut open a Napa and a WIX and the Napa was better constructed
😂😂WIX,, MAKES NAPA ,, ALL NAPA FILTERS!!
Really absorbing the meaning of the oil recipes, thx. Are you going to do a series on oil friction reducing additives? I've been die hard for Prolong for all my gas engines for thirty years and would appreciate your analysis.
Yes, we are going to do a deep dive on additives.
@@themotoroilgeek sweet! Can't wait. Thx
Very interesting, I bought Pennzoil ultra platinum, truck has over 80,000 miles. Doesn't use oil, will the ultra be as good as anything or should I use a high mileage or another oil?
The most important thing in a car, is often the hardest to replace for many people. Change it every 5.000 and you are as safe as can be.
Hey, Lake, I hear people say all the time that Pennzoil and Quaker State are the same stuff in different color bottles. How about a test to clear the air?
5w30 QS Syn VS 5w30 PZ Syn.
Great Suggestion! I'll add that one to the list.
Hey yes I like to know what the difference is in Castrol oil . Some people say it’s wax based and gums up engines. Well how about their synthetic line ?
That's what all the old guys used to say I think it's because all the Pennsylvania grade oils were high paraffin especially the non-detergent ones and they would gum up the engines if you didn't change them on a regular basis I used to hear that growing up a lot about Pennzoil Quaker State and castrol
I really appreciate your knowledge, your enthusiasm & your civility. I watch several auto presenters who have great ethics & knowledge. ------- You're one of the good guy's! 🙂
Thanks!
For 111K miles, would you go with Pennzoil Ultra, or a high mileage?
Love listening to you explain all the components of motor oil! Really wish you would leave the background noise out. It's a distraction and you just don't need the fill.
A few years ago in my 4.6 crown vic, went to a synthetic, what I noticed was oil usage was half QT to 3000 miles. I switched back to conventional oil and did not have that problem anymore. Why would that be?
The higher detergent package likely cleaned the carbon from the piston ring grooves. As the rings are freed up, oil consumption would decrease.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you very much for explaining, that makes a lot of sense.
@@themotoroilgeek it’s because the synthetic oil thins down at operating temperature. Synthetic oils and conventional oils use the same additive detergents
@@tundy4959 nyet! u watched any of these vid's?! the whole point is that each oil is different in additive detergent levels and other chemicals that all together, do this, that or another thing. Might want to learn things before making stmts here!
On your advice, I'm using Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic in my 06 Duratec 3.0L V6. It has 236,000 miles and it leaks a little bit of oil from everywhere. Maybe the seal conditioners will help with that. I'll be doing my 3rd oil change in about 800 miles. Changing at a 3,000 interval.
Just a shame that the oil companies don't put a lot of this information on the bottle or their website. Most people wouldn't care, but some of us nutters do care about this sort of thing! Interested with your comments re Ca in the oil affecting other additives and the whole TBN stuff. I drive a diesel....food for thought on next oil change!
Monday morning nerding out on oil tech. Thanks :)
I had a Cruze that got totaled with over 200,000 miles that required Dexos oil. I used the cheapest oil that I could find on the shelf, mixed brands, viscosities, types, changed it every 10,000 miles and it ran perfect. I am sure this Platinum oil may be better but I think it is an overkill for a daily driver. Loved the video and am subscribing.
You're not really supposed to change viscosities lol. You put in what is recommended for the engine, nothing else.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Companies spend billions on marketing and the majority of the people fall for it. I myself like to think outside the box and prove it can be done with no negative consequences. Since the Cruze, I now have a G6 and have been following the same routine for years and it gets me to work Monday through Friday.
@@Olds_Pwr It's not "falling for" something. The engines are specifically designed to use a certain oil. Many modern engines have very narrow oil passages, thus need very light oils. Changing oils was fine on old cars, and people did that, but everything now needs very specific fluids and oils.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Thank you for your concern on this subject but do you have any thoughts on how I am able to get hundreds of thousands of miles on engines while doing what I have been doing for years?
@@Olds_Pwr All I’m saying is you’re supposed to use the recommended viscosity. You don’t have to buy the expensive brands, that’s not what I’m saying, but modern engines need very specific viscosities. Either you lucked out or have an older engine with a wider tolerance. Ask any mechanic worth his salt and he’ll tell you to not mess around with viscosity, use what the manual says. It’s also a good idea to find a favorite brand and stick with it.
Amazing that so much goes into modern oil. Starting to understand a little more on the 3rd viewing.
This is outstanding data! Simply superb info and explanations!
Glad it was helpful!
@@themotoroilgeek Do you have anywhere oil report for Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W20 ?
@@nicholaspetre1 stay tuned! That video is coming soon.
This is best video yet from L.S Jr. 🎉🎉🎉 Many thumbs up. Pls do one test for Shell Ultra 5W 40. Boron said to be 200ppm and 464 degree F flash point. GTL base oil.
Why they would not stick onto container a label stating the typical spec of their additives in the oil?. Just as an example.
"magnesium 300 to 350ppm, calcium 800 to 900ppm, boron 100 to 125ppm, zinc 800 to 900ppm. Phosporous 600 to 625. Moly 60 to 80ppm. POA ester 8 to 10%. Etc etc"
Will make buyer's selection & buying secision much easier.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
I remember when detergent motor oil came out. Yes i am old. I remember people saying that stuff has additives and it will ruin your engine. From a man thatvworked on engines inthe late 50s and early 60s oil today is so much better today but also the engines are so much better
Today's engines don't have the tolerance of the older motors, I had a 62 Chevy with a rod knock drove it that way for almost 2 years back in the 70s try that with today's engines.
I learned that even if your oil filler cap calls for 5W-20 you can use 5W-30 especially, if you have oil consumption it will reduce oil consumption with the thicker oil it will slow down the consumption and will increase mpg. 🙂
Thicker oil will not always reduce consumption. Many years ago, I had an old Ford 400, which had drain back issues out of the head, the oil would pool and destroy the valve seals on the cylinders at the back of the engine. The motor would suck the oil into the cylinder and burn it, until the spark plug would coke up and stop it from firing, the gunked up the rings, so more oil in cylinder. Using a higher heat range spark plug kept it running, replaced head to fix valve seals but still burned a lot of oil. If I put 10w-30 in it would burn more, but 5w-30 would not burn as much, but would rattle too much. Settled on just adding a quart of each when the oil light would blink at idle. It was bad enough, I would buy two cases of Sears cheapest oil, one 5w, one 10w-30 and put them in the rear seat footwells. Had the car a couple years before selling it to a guy with an old f-150 that wanted the block.
This is the sort of information I have been looking for. I've a new vehicle with 2.0L Ecoboost, and before I decide on which oil I want to use for the long haul, I want to learn something about the oils themselves and their differing characteristics and potential benefits over each other. As I am leaning towards a small number of brands, Pennzoil being one of them, this has been really quite helpful in educating myself. Now I need to scour your channel and see if you mention the other brands I'm considering too.
BTW: I work in a dealership and can use the OEM grade full synthetic Motorcraft oil, and get it at a discount, but I want to be assured I'm protecting my investment the best way possible, even if it costs me a couple dollars more w/each oil change. And I don't recommend or subscribe to the manufacturers extended oil change intervals as I've seen the good and bad to following that practice. One needs to be honest with the affects of their operating environment and the demands their driving habits on what required maintenance should be followed.
Thanks for the comment. We have several other videos on the channel that should be helpful. The key is not picking a brand first. That should be the last choice. Start with the application and work from there. Then choose the brand you trust to deliver that product consistently.
Since you have an EcoBoost, the key is getting a product designed for direct injection engines. The Motorcraft is a great oil to start with. Do used oil analysis to establish a baseline and then try a different oil (like the Pennzoil Ultra) to see if it actually reduces wear for your engine.
@@themotoroilgeek My big concern it first matching the recommended specifications, then determining which one might be less prone to promote varnish and reduce wear. I do not plan to exceed 4K intervals, keeping closer to 3-3.5K as my standard. Much of that is based on my environment, living in the north east, then on the style and type of driving I do. Since I'm older now I don't outright run my vehicles hard, but more spirited, nonetheless. Am I wrong in thinking something like the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Castrol Edge full synthetic would be better again varnish production and wear vs. the OEM semi-synthetic oil?
@@staciecarverd8136 i like your line of thinking! Match the specs and then go with a full synthetic. That will reduce varnish formation and handle the turbo heat better.
Used oil analysis is the best way to determine which oil provides the best wear protection for your environment and driving style.
@@themotoroilgeekWhy didn’t you include the Ultra I your review?
@@saulespino2510 we have a different video that covers Ultra vs Platinum
I just found this channel and I can't get enough. Ive been using pennzoil platinum or ultra platinum and wix synthetic filters for over 20 years. One of our vehicles is a 2010 dodge with the 3.5 V6. It just turned 200k and is still quiet as a mouse. Isn't that unheard of? It's got to be the oil.
Could you cover the Pennzoil ultra platinum? How much does it vary from the platinum?
So I got Mobile one high millage oil and changed the oil after over 200 K in miles then got 5 MPG better in millage. Thanks so much for your tips and results are there. On a Prius V. I am sold!
Great to hear!
So you used Mobil 1 high mileage and got 5 mpg more?
Glad I found your channel. I've been going down the oil rabbit hole and there is lots of disinformation out there.
Thanks, that's why I'm doing this. Trying to get the correct info out there.
I'm starting to get interested in tribology...BTW, the Ultra Platinum is even better!
Do a before and after video of high mileage engine cylinders before and after adding coolant to engine intake, and compare to using seafoam and techron.
Amazing videos, thanks !
Thanks for the suggestion.
I exclusively have used Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic in all my twenty year old/plus 200K cars (Honda/Toyota). Maybe if I owned a Ford EcoBoost or Dodge Hemi I would change to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Some engines need all the help they can get.
I also was
Wondering how the ultra platinum performs with the group!
Thanks!
Thank you. Finally, someone setting the world straight on TBN. I also hope the Amsoil "experts" listened to what you said about PAO and additives and realize the term 10-0% and full mean the same thing. Amsoil has some Group III in them so the additives can mix. I think Amsoil makes a great product but they should teach all of their "experts" it is their additive package that makes their oil perform, not the "100%" synthetic base, which it is not.
Thanks!
Exactly. There is no such thing as a "100% synthetic" oil. All motor oils come from the ground as crude. What you're paying extra for is more refining and a better additive package. Amsoil does not even make their own oil, they buy it from a bulk dealer and just add their additive package.
Is oxidation measured as per ASTM E2412? I know Aral 0w40 is fully synthetic by the German definition (Vollsynthetisches) but on the German oil-club they say that while it has an oxidation value of 10.0 it has no esters! How can that be possible?
Yes, Oxidation is measured via FTIR, and for a PAO oil to have a new Oxidation value of 10, there is an Ester in the additive package (most likely a dispersant), but not as a co-base stock.
Great stuff! Would love to see a comparo/discussion about the Euro oils...VW502 vs. 504 etc. 0W40 M1, Liquimoly 5W40s, etc. The LM MoS2 or Ceratec woudl be cool to hear about your take.
Euro formula oil is fine, so long as you use in an engine that specifies that kind of oil. Euro formula oils contain additives that American and Asian auto manufacturers don't want you using, because of the effect on the engine and/or emissions system. High quality API certified oils like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1 EP provide more than enough protection for US and Asian engines and meet all manufacturer specifications for oil used in their vehicles.
@@Mark-rw3kw yes....that's why I made the comment....for those of with Euro vehicles...
+ The higher end Ravenol and Eurol brand oils. ;)
I've been using Pennzoil Platinum in my 2014 Ram 5.7 and 2014 Ford Fusion 1.5 Eco Boost since we bought them. 212K on the Fusion, 185K on the Ram. They both still run great. Looks like I'll switch to the high mileage flavor. I've been going 7500 miles between changes.
Congratulations for the wonderful video!
I know that the reverse hydrolysis of ESTER produces weak acids, since Calcium acts only on strong acids, isn't it dangerous to have a high ESTER content in the engine?
Regarding PAO, I know that it is not very compatible with the elastomers of the gaskets, is it also for this reason that it is mixed with ESTER?
Great question! A high ester content oil is more susceptible to hydrolysis, so that is a good reason not to run a fully Ester oil in a daily driver.
In regards to the seals, a specific type of ester can be used to help with seals (if needed).
@@themotoroilgeek Does 100% (or close to it) ester base stock, automotive engine oil even exist??
I been using valvoline, they were out of the regular high mileage I got the synthetic one. Which seemed to help my oil burning problems greatly. I figure it helped to free up piston rings in my 260,000 mile car.
Very interesting. So a lower oxidation number is better?
Yes, the lower the oxidation value of the fresh oil, the higher the quality of the base oil.
My 1999 Camry 2.2l LOVES Pennzoils Platinum High Mileage 5W-30. I was using Walmart synthetic but was getting smoke at startup. That's changed to no to minimal smoke at start up with the Pennzoil.
How many miles on your 2.2? My ‘99 2.2 is at 339,000 and I’m thinking of changing to Pennzoil Platinum at my next oil change.
So every vehicle except one in our little household Fleet uses 5w 30 full synthetic. this helps so much Lake thank you..
My car does not leak oil. I switched from Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5W-30 to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30. My oil consumption reduced from one quart in 1800 miles to one quart in 4000 miles. Does the high mileage oil also reduce oil consumption due to losing oil by the piston rings?
That's interesting...
i add a qt of slightly thicker oil, f/a 5w30 to a 5w40..as an example... has worked in a couple of cars...
Interesting how two are the same with minor tweaks, and the third one has a lot of differences! 🐺🔧
Yep. This was a fun one.
Great information. Great learning experience. I do oil analysis at work. I love it.
Please do a Platinum vs Ultra Platinum comparison.
Not only Please but Pretty Please. 😁😁
I have switched from Mobil One to Penzoil Platinum to Pennzoil ultra platinum. Oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum is much less than with Mobil One. Thanks for the Great videos.
m1 = crap 💩
Do you have a video regarding Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 vs Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w-30? I'm wondering the difference between the two, but can't find a video on that.
Don't forget the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum haha
For real where’s the top shelf stuff??
In the corner of my garage.
I agree 100% Pennzoil ultra Platinum is one of the best top performing oils on the market
@@johnfleming68 Not really.
In my garage and in my truck.
Most high mileage oil will be slightly higher viscosity when new and contain higher amount of seal conditioner to help with an engine that has been loosened up over time.
Awesome channel and explained in a way we can all understand Thank you You have a new subscriber
Thanks!
I bought a 93 Ford ranger with 223,000 miles for a work rat, 13 years ago. It has the 2.3l 5sp 2wd. I'm an asphalt guy and always had a work vehicle that had gotten descent mileage and one that didn't break the bank because I get pretty dirty working and don't want to have to worry about a car or truck because of work sites. So, I run Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend in ranger since I bought it and it now has 508,000+ miles and still rocking the original engine transmission and rear end! No leaks or ticks taps or raps. 3000-3500 oil changes
Would love for you to analyze Valvoline high mileage full synthetic, and Valvoline semi-synthetic high mileage 150k!
Great suggestion!
y wood u think that a product w/sum REAL oil could possibly b any better ? ? ? 'full syn' iz really over refined real oil, junk... 🤯
@@brucek.hoffman5868 WTH are you talking about?
What are your thoughts about liquid titanium additives?
Always enjoy your videos 👍
Thanks!
What should I use in a tired Chevy 350? I believe it’s around a 1975? Can’t see the casting numbers as they are tucked into the firewall. It’s all stock as far as I can tell.
Is there a large difference between Platinum and Ultra Platinum?
Already discussed. Find it.
@@pepeshopping I don't see it on this channel.
You find it, wackjob. Jag off.
Yes. One is more expensive than the other
5:55 so what’s the restrictions on a 10w40? If I jump up to a 10w40 would I get more zddp in the oil? This would be used in my lawnmower so the higher zinc would be nice.
There is not a restriction on ZDDP levels for oils higher in viscosity than 10W-30, so a 10W-40 may have more ZDDP.
@@themotoroilgeek catalytic converters don't like ZINC 🥵
lawn mowers run HOTTER than ur car, so u should use an oil like AMSOIL small engine oil, 'ASEQT'/10w30, it will take the HEAT ur small engine makes... lawn mowers do run HOTTER than ur car...
If you ever wrote a book I wanna buy 2. One autographed and the other as a textbook that I would refer to on a daily basis. So much damn good information.
Thanks!
Not just guys😂...prompting a motivation to learn that field I know so little about. Much needed when raking my brain at every oil change