Is Synthetic Motor Oil Bad For Old Cars?
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- Опубликовано: 13 май 2024
- Can you use synthetic oil in old cars? Can synthetic oil cause leaks?
Sponsored by Mobil 1 motor oil - You can find Mobil 1 synthetic at a wide variety of retailers and service stations near you. bit.ly/2FOBrVJ
We’re tackling many heavily debated subjects about motor oil in this video and learning how specially formulated motor oil can help new and old engines add more miles to the odometer! Can you use synthetic motor oil in old cars? Can synthetic oils cause leaks in old cars and engines? Where did the idea originate that synthetic oils are not compatible with old engines? If your car is consuming a lot of oil, should you use a thicker oil grade? Finally, when should you use a high mileage oil? I spent time discussing these questions and more with Mobil 1 engineers. Watch for all the details! #Mobil1Partner
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I used to be in charge of a large haulage fleet running heavy trucks,we used to use sae30 in summer and sae20 in winter,one of the engines failed and seized up the crankshaft,we put that down to oil pump failure. A Chemist came in from Shell at the Bosses request and we discussed this multigrade thing at length with regards to thick and thinner oils which made me think about things in a different way. I was always in favour of thicker oils to maintain oil pressure at running temperatures,he explained to me that thinner oils flow easier at low temperatures so lubricate better when the engine needs it most at cold starts,he also said that engine oil was not just for lubrication it’s was there to cool the moving parts by keeping the friction between them to a minimum. A thin oil will pump round the engine quicker than a thick oil so the more oil circulating the more cooling is taking place even if the oil pressure isn’t quite as high,he convinced me and the boss and we changed to 10w30 in winter and 15w40 in summer, some of our engines went on to do over 1-5 million miles without any problems so I think he proved his point.
"he also said that engine oil was not just for lubrication it’s was there to cool the moving parts by keeping the friction between them to a minimum".
lmfao he literally said "its not just there for lubrication" and then proceeded to just explain what lubrication is. cooling parts by reducing friction is like a core part of the definition of lubrication.
@@realyopikechannel You're being too literal. Yes, "lubrication" does involve cooling because you're reducing the heat of friction, like you said. But he was referring to the popular meaning of lubrication, which is how the general public understands it -- that lubrication is simply to reduce contact between surfaces.
Great example! Made me shift the way I think about lubrication.
Just curious were those company cars a ford e series? Hahahaha
@@realyopikechannel yes but it literally cools the metal because it's just like a radiator. The oil flows through cooler parts of the motor and brings the temperature to a uniform amount. It also cools the piston and cylinder wall.
So these are the essential oils I’ve been hearing about
and the only useful crystals are in radios and clocks
Lavender purple please
Send me a message and I can set you up as your own work from home boss and distributor....... Grow your network today! LOL
No no that's Amsoil
Haha, yeahhhh
Hasn't anyone noticed that most oil companies have quietly switched to synthetic blends?? It seems harder to find straight up conventional oil anymore.
Meijer sells conventional oil
@@austinsnider5836 I gave up trying to find it at Walmart but they did have a hybrid version at the same price so I bought it for my S-10.
why would you use out dated oil??
Because everything I do is "outdated"....My cars and old school heavy metal
@@robs1852 Old cars are easier to work on..
I think another issue is the longer oil change interval. Whether conventional or synthetic more frequent oil changes help.
Bingo. It doesn't matter how magic your fancy oil formulation is, metal shavings and combustion products are still abrasive/acidic and the best thing you can do is not let them build up in the engine.
That's why oil filters exist. They go bad before the oil does. If you're dropping synthetic oil at 4k or 5k, you're wasting good oil. Only change the oil filter at 5k and replace the oil that's lost from replacing it.
This video is going to get a lot of views once people start linking it in forums for the weekly "what oil do I need" question
Hey my truck needs 10w40 but I have 250 galloms of -20w80 can I use it?
@@Ayeitsscott i think...you should run to your glovebox and check it out
Lol facts
Obvious answer is extra virgin olive oil, duh
Hey I read my owner's manual, looked at my oil cap, and asked a service technician what oil my car needs, but I haven't found my answer on Facebook yet. What oil does my car need?
I only put the purest olive oil in cars
Italian identified
I like your style, Dude
Extra virgin baby!! Lol
Double virgin Royal Purple?
🙄
I had a customer who was a mechanical engineer, although not in the automotive industry. He was very meticulous and studied everything. He bought a used '85 Lincoln Town Car with a F.I. 5.0 liter. It used a lot of oil but had no visible leaks. He was sold on synthetic oil and it's improved detergents. He changed to Mobil 1 and then after 500 miles changed again and then after 500 more miles changed again. After each change his oil consumption dropped and continued to drop. After the 3rd change he ran the oil for 5000 miles and changed it at that point there after. It had very minimal oil consumption after that, approximately 1 quart between oil changes. The car had about 70k miles on it when he originally purchased it and it had about 130k when I met him and took over as his mechanic. I know the car had been owned by an elderly couple before he purchased it so I assume many years of low engine speeds and probably poor maintenance had resulted in carboned up rings but the fact that using regular Mobil 1 cleaned the engine up so fast was pretty impressive.
Thanks for sharing. Just curious, do you remember what sae grade of oil he used in that car?, perhaps 0w40? Since it has an overall better base stock than a 5w30 semi synthetic or a 15w40 mineral oil group 2 with low quality detergent components?
That's the opposite of most people's experience; my consumption went way up on synthetic
Quel grade ?
5w30 , 10w40 , ... ?
Instead of such repeated changes, he could simply have used engine oil flush that would have done the trick in a single oil change
@@shrujanamsyama9940 That will clog the oil pump screen, not a good idea.
Jason your videos are always top notch. I like them because I learn stuff, and you never over burden our ears with annoying music that so many others feel is needed---instead you give s more information than us "regular guys" can mentally absorb in one viewing. So I generally watch them more than once.
This is the first of this bloke's video's I've seen
If the rest are of this standard I have something interesting & useful to look forward too
Cheers Mate
This video has been needed for a long time, I’ve been fighting this myth for 40 years of my 45 years as a mechanic and shop owner
dear Anthony,
and what are you thinking about that?
Would honestly interest me.
I'm 50 years old and I think it's different from engine to engine.
Same thing is with 'oil change' in older gears or rear diffs.
greetings from Switzerland
Marcel 👋😉🇨🇭
PS:
sorry Sir for my strange English.
My native language is German/ Swiss-german.
Same here.
Def not a myth. I've been wrenching on cars for 40 years, full shop with a lift so I would consider myself a pretty advanced DIY guy. I had a Lexus LS400 with about 100k miles on it and always had conventional oil changes. I decided to switch to synthetic and parked the car for about 5 days after a change. I walked out to a huge puddle of oil from the RMS. The car didn't leak a drop prior to the switch. As a hail mary, I immediately changed BACK to conventional oil and within 100 miles it was back to bone dry. I put another 100k miles on it before I sold it and oil never hit the ground again. I am 100% in favor of synthetic oil and use it in all my cars. BUT, those cars have always run it from the factory. I would never do a switch again on a car that has used conventional oil for 10's of thousands of miles.
@@tombiondi9969 YOU NEEDED much heavier sythn. Oil! We use 15 W 4O
@@captainamericaamerica8090 why? It used 5w30. That's a terrible idea. I shouldn't have to change viscosity so it doesn't leak.
Finally a Engineering Explained video which I may understand
Did you?
*AN
Thanks for posting this. It contained quite a bit of useful information. Back in the OLD days, rear main seals were made of rope, and as time went on, those seals turned into almost like wood, and the sealing swelling issues failed, causing those seals to leak.
Hence my rear main seal leaking on my 01 Infiniti i30T that I have to move tranny to chamge
What years exactly you are referring to sir thanks
Rope?????? Which cars, what years and where was this
@@marcussok6469 Jaguar uses rope seals for the cranshaft..
Olds also uses rope seals throughout ros and 80s .jags also has leather for a diff seal.maybe you heard of a seal company called cr seals C is Chicago r is Rawhide
Valvoline full synthetic I've used since I bought my car and change it every 3000 miles and it's never dirty or broke down .Great stuff ! I use Valvoline full synthetic 5w30.Also use Toro full synthetic in my tractor , mower , power washer , snow blower .
I hated dealing with old farts at Autozone that would run 20w50 in their 2015 Corolla because “that’s what I ran in my 87 Chevy truck”
And that's why their gas mileage is trashed.
I'm a dealership mechanic and we often have customers do stuff like that. Had a customer with a 2018 RAV4 who insisted we used 5W30 because his previous RAV4 ran 5W30 and it's $5 cheaper than the 0W20 synthetic Toyota recommends. Very common for customers to challenge us and "know more" than the guys who wrench on these everyday.
They would be idiots for that in an 87 truck. The TBI-V8 had tight play and the metal was hard. anyting over 10W is hindering the oil reaching where it needs to be.
Coworker of mine looked up online what oil was needed for his 4cyl Escape and he found 10w40. I opened his hood and pointed to the oil cap which read 5w30. I told him to always look at the cap, never look it up. Now, we did his oil change with the heavier oil anyway because when he got it from his uncle, it had been sitting for a couple of years and I told him it would be ok to run it for a couple of months during the summer just to make sure everything is flushed out, but that we were going to have to do another oil change before winter because it could cause problems. He doesn't drive it more than a few miles at a time within town and not for very long, but I told him that if it doesn't get replaced before winter, it'll be harder starting and will kill his gas mileage. So, he learned a lesson.
@@impalaSS65 Not after 200k miles lol...
Absolutely brilliant video, Jason. You are a world-class communicator.
Nicely done. My 2001 VW Passat wagon, with its longitudinally mounted 1.8T engine and undersized oil sump, has thrived on Mobil1 0W-40 "[Spoiled] European Car Formula" and the largest oil filter I can cram between the oil cooler and the left engine mount, a Mann 950/4. When we replaced the valve cover gasket last year, the top of this "sludge monster" engine was clean.
Rotary Head here I am glad you touch base on the rotary engine in the end. I have been using synthetic oil since my '91 RX-7 Turbo II back in 91. Also in 93 RX-7 R1 and 07 RX-8. The only time I was told not to use synthetic oil was having mineral oil in the rotary engine long time and switching over. But I have always removed the original mineral oil from new and switched over to synthetic. I have also talked to a lot of rotary engine builders and all say the same.
Again thank you for touching on the rotary engine and the myth about synthetic oil
Thank you for explaining the history behind some of the reasons they initially got a bad rap. And why you would use different viscosities vs different additives, high mileage etc... great vid!
Don't know about high mileage oils BUT my 2000 Chevy 5.3 started lifter ticking on start up . Changed oil n filter @ 5 K with one quart trans fluid at 275 K . Now1500 miles later noise gone . ( It worked for me ) . Rick bruggner Miami fla .
I love how the top of those jugs line up with the lines in the wall.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil is my favorite oil. I've used it on my Ford F-150 with a 3.7 L V-6 engine for 11 years and at around 149K miles the engine runs as well as when it was new. Thank you, Mobil 1 and Engineering Explained! 👍👍👍👍👍
been using mobil1 in every car an mower back i 75 ...thanks to it ..my vw bug started when we had the big snow in 78...
I've been using Mobile1 since I bought my '04 F250. Now has 342K and I often don't change oil for 10K - 15K miles. Of, course I pray for protection also.
Thank you for the bonus on the rotary lol I was hoping to hear about them and I'm glad you mentioned them
One thing you missed:
Regarding high mileage oils, they usually have higher concentrations of detergents and dispersants than "low mileage" oils, in addition to seal conditioners. This is intended to gradually clean the engine over time, rather than using a "flush" which can clear buildup quickly enough to clog filters, screens or orifices.
had a girl that ran great, then we got married, and she got all clogged up, guess she must have used the wrong oil
@@thunderbird97 sounds like a bit of contamination might have gotten in her
@@thunderbird97 sounds like it’s time to give her a service.
I was going to ask about the flushing of an old high mileage car. I heard it shouldn't be done as it can cause damage bc of the debris and sludge clogging and getting moved into areas it shouldn't be. I was wondering if I should use a high mileage oil, but I feel better about it now as you pointed out the differences between that and flushing.
You got that from Google and copy/paste huh. L 😒😒
My brother recently bought a Daihatsu HiJet (one of those cool little mini trucks with the steering wheel on the right). Interestingly, the service manual contains a clear warning NOT to use higher viscosity oil than recommended as it will create a risk of damaging seals and gaskets due to over-pressurization, thus causing leaks.
I was expecting him to drink oil out of that beaker, and judging by how he looked at it, he was probably thinking the same.
😂😂😂
The f o r b i d d e n j u i c e
delicious on pancakes
So did I! Chug!
My dad ran the section at Mobil that developed Mobil 1 if you are interested in doing another video on the topic that goes even further in depth.
Would love to see your dad addressing some frequently asked questions
He needs to see this
Show your dad this vid maybe he can send him an email and they can collab
Very cool!
Well, I guess he must be 100 years old by now.
Good video! Another reason to not use synthetic in an old car that already burns oil, is the cost associated with burning the expensive oil! I think I would buy the cheapest oil until I could replace the car. Amsoil advises to install their oil in mechanically sound engines. A car that has been running on conventional oil for 150,000 miles probably isn’t all that sound any more due to wear and sludge build up, even if changed often,because of higher volatility and lower maximum operating temperatures compared to synthetic oil.
For me with my 1967 Wolseley Hornet I use a conventional, 20w50 blended specifically for classic engines. The A-series engine has larger tolerences so the thicker oil is recommended.
Debunking car myths one oil at a time. Good work as always my man. ❤️
I've been using synthetics in old cars ever since Mobil One was first available to me in 1976. Never had a problem. Haven't had any mechanical engine failures, either. It was a great advancement in motor oils, and proved that thin oils can lubricate just as well as thick ones.
provided it had enough additives.
@@humansvd3269 ALL motor oils have 'additives'.
D.E.B. B You're wise beyond your years.
Mobile 1 Forever.
Doesent work well om early turbo vehicles they always had very light leaks ..drips the synthetics..fly right through..and remember that graphite oli back in 70s...fouled up plugs and valves
That’s all the evidence I need , oh while I have you here what’s your take on earth , round or flat . I await your findings
This guy is a tremendous communicator of knowledge.
So am me
As true on my self
Thanks for the video! It made my decision easier. I have an old '99 suzuki car with moderate/high milage(at least about 170 000km) and I switched from part synthetic/hc synthase (10w-40) to a synthetic oil (5w-40). No problemes so far, car starts a bit easier. I didn't have any bad experience, just positive. I mainly switched due to extreme weather conditions in Europe (cold winter days, really hot summer days) and it should be cleaning and protecting the engine more effectively. at this age, it might be even more important. I rather go with a cheaper, but quality brand, but put synthetic from now on. Next time I'm thinking of trying a full synthetic of this grade.
whats the diff between synth and full synth
Can’t see the logic in using semi synthetic oils because it’s a mixture of both mineral and synthetic which rather defeats the objective,it is of course your decision and if it works for you then no problem,I always use 0w40 in my 150,000 mile BMW X3 diesel and change it every Spring along with the filter,I only do about 6,000 miles a year so it’s probably a bit overkill really,the engine inside looks as though it’s just been assembled with NO sigh of sludging or carbon deposits anywhere,being a diesel mechanic this is very important to me, I’ve had dozens of diesels since my first one in 1985 and NEVER had any sort of engine problem so what I’m doing can’t be that bad, wouldn’t go back to Mineral or Semi Synthetic oils now after the success I’ve had over the years with fully synthetic.
I've driven nearly a million miles between 5 different cars all older than 2002 (delivery driver) using only Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 16 years and I've never once had an oil related problem. I change it about every 8k miles.
Nice try Mobil 1 representative!
@Darren Munsell When I was a tech for GM I'd see people change their oil going off the oil change maintenance life and come in for their first oil change at 20k miles once it finally hit 0% with an engine that looked like an 80 year old smokers room after taking the oil cap off.
@@watersauce3998 amazes me how people will spend thousands on a new car and not take care of it.
@@CloroxGodThe1st that's exactly what I don't understand. A lot of money is being spent, but there is savings on maintenance. I had exactly this problem with my used car when I bought it. because it had only a low mileage, i thought the engine would be in good shape, at least i thought ... the previous owners were using cheap engine oil with the wrong viscosity. in combination with high change intervals and short-distance operation, that messed up the engine. only with many oil changes within a very short time and the use of engine cleaners has the oil consumption sunk to a level that is hardly measurable. i was very lucky.
Thats good! But you change the oil ! Theres the magic with oils and engines ,you change the oil when its time. 👏
Loving this one brother thank's for sharing very important information giving blessed love to all knowledge is power hopefully everyone pays attention keep up the good work 🙏🙏🙏🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲💪💪💪
As a 3rd generation mechanic I always chose Valvoline in my fleet and use OEM agency filters ie Motorcraft Or AC and so on.. always use the appropriate API grade
Your videos are thee most informative & thorough on the net. Thank you, sir 👍
The single most informative video on car engines I've ever watched
Thank you for that. Cleared up a lot of questions I had.
As long as your engine isn't burning alot of oil due to poor maintenance. Increasing the viscosity can help. The bottom line is to decide if the synthetic oil is actually worth the extra cost. More frequent oil changes can never be a waste of money or time if the engine is only driven for short runs or non freeway use. Freeway driven miles, in my opinion is better for the engine. The engine has a better chance to burn off the accumulated contamination like carbon and sulfur.
dont forget water
You’re living in the 80s brother. Use the recommended oil thickness, and it is wasteful, modern oil is good for at least 5k miles. If you’re changing convential at 3k under most workloads you’re wasting money
I had two motorcycles which were two cycles. I used synthetics to eliminate exhaust smoke. The synthetics also eliminated the carbon deposits on the piston crown.
That's what people do to pass the smog test of an engine that smoked they would put synthetic oil in which doesn't burn blue 🔵
on those 2 strokes carbon can be holding together some things will fail after switching.
@@southpark159753If that were true, then wouldn't a new engine with zero build-up fail?
Moving out on your own and realizing(but already knowing) that your truck-driving dad was a genious.
Thank you for debunking old myths!
Switching from conventional oil to synthetic caused leaks in a couple of old cars that I owned too. That is the main reason many people won't switch in older cars (70s-90s). In a newer car, I would only run Synthetic.
I ran synthetics in a 74' Chev pickup 350, 81' Dodge Mirada, no problems. Synthetics only leak if you have bad seals, synthetics have more detergents than conventional, so if sludge is keeping your engine from leaking, ya, it's a problem.
Try Lucas oil stabilizer to help slow the leaks . It also helps to minimize dry starts by staying on the piston walls
@@lonniebeal6032
nice! using 5w40 100% synt in a old chevrolet 153 (2.5 L4) engine. smooth and clean.
good job of explaining old questions that I have argued both sides of! Thanks
From my own experience, when i changed from a mineral oil to a semi synthetic oil on an old hilux, i needed to change the filter after a couple of 1000 kilometers, it was full! Then I changed the oil and filter again after like 5000 kilometers, after that back to normal intervals.
Love your videos! So informative, entertaining and aesthetically pleasing lol
Great video and education. Thanks for sharing!!!! I learned so much.
Perhaps the most extreme example of burning oil might be my '53 Johnson Seahorse 2-stroke running on a gas oil mixture of 15-to-1! Using non-synthetic oil, I had to clean or change the spark plugs after about 10 hours of operation. Once I switched to synthetic oil (still using the 15:1 ratio), I never had to change the spark plugs again!!! This made such an impression on me that I started to use synthetic oil exclusively when I bought my '79 RX7, that burns crankcase oil by design to lubricate the rotor. In 23 years of driving, I got 320.000 miles on that engine and it was running fine and smoke-free when ! finally sold it for a larger car!
As usual, your explanations make total sense. Your flickering oil pressure light hit a nerve with me. My 96 Impala SS (purchased new) had about 275,000 miles on its 5.7 liter LT1 when I started noticing the dreaded flickering oil pressure light. No oil pressure gage came with the 96 Impala. The engine has never seen any oil except Mobil One 10W-30 - changed every 5,000 miles without fail. The light would only flicker on a hot summer day while idling at a red light with the AC blasting on high. I tried switching to Mobil One 10W-40. I could not see any significant improvement. I finally had to admit that the old LT1 is worn out. It has since been replaced with a rebuilt LT1. No more flickering oil pressure light. 8-)
I love the absolute correct info you share.
I don't love imagining the looks of horrid confusion on many peoples faces, that are trying to keep up with you. They're still pondering on the 'early Ester formulations'. 'Who the heck is Ester!?!?!'
They told me the same thing, use thicker oil and I did switched from the factory recommended 10/40 to 20/50. The engine started to rattle and vibrates (very similar to a bad engine mount), harsh cold start and slightly worse fuel economy. Switched back to the regular 10/40 and the engine back in shape immediately. Its debatable but from my personal experience ALWAYS stick to factory recommended viscosity.
I second the advice to stick to factory recommended params, but also, maybe you should have chosen 10W-50 instead of 20W-50. The first number is the cold viscosity, the second number is hot viscosity. 10W-50 is the logical choice for a thicker version of 10W-40.
Many good points made here. Confirmed many of my own theories about motor oil.
Great job once again!
FWIW, I’ve been using synthetic, usually Mobil 1, for about 15 years in my ‘91 RX7, which sees a lot of track use. It’s still on the original, unopened factory engine, with good compression at 170K kms, although an internal coolant seal has failed, so I’m finally going to have to crack the keg.
I've actually got an engine that suggests a thinner oil for the winter with a thicker oil for spring and if opperating in desert climates, even heavier oil so, yes there may be a valid reason to switch to a thicker/heavier oil even in a synthectic
100%, my first gen rav4 manual suggests anywhere from 5w-20 to 20w-50 depending on the lowest temperature you're likely to experience.
Wow really great content. Great work guys respect
This is a very good and informative video. Thank you Dexter Manley.
Thx for the rotary excursion in the end. :)
Very informative. Excellent job explaining
Very good video.
I believe there's plenty of common sense to suggest there is no issue with synthetic oil use in older engines.
The high mileage oil use should be weighed against cost/benefit.
All things being equal, higher levels of ZDDP's (not Zinc by itself) are useful for some older flat tappet street engines.
These are found to be present in much lower quantities than in pre-90's motor oil.
In the case of the older flat tappet engines, this is not a major issue after break-in. (Still important however.) The consensus amongst some oil chemistry experts and engine builders supports this.
Use a ZDDP=rich oil in air-cooled VWs.
Thanks for the bonus rotary fact. I've been scared into buying conventional for my 85 RX7 by the guys on the RX7 Club forum for a few years now!
Your Spinner engine will run perfectly on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum -- just make sure you use the viscosity that's recommended by the manufacturer !
Great presentation again as usual. I've corrected or should I say improved low oil pressure at idol by dropping the pan and replacing the rod bearings. That's all. No resurfacing the journals. Those fixes made it possible for another 50,000 miles on an old chevy corsica.
Only 50k miles on the Corsica? You must be s racedriver!
You should get 250k miles.
@@bobvido9875 Yeah that little V6 eventually went over 300K. I sold it to a high school student who for all I know might be still driving it.
I like the synthetic blend High Mileage oils. My wife’s 2010 Chrysler town and country with a 3.8 liter V6 had a TSB on these engines were prone to consume a quart of oil between 700 to 1,100 miles from the factory. Our van already had 101,000 miles when we bought it. First time I used what the engine called for which was 5w20 and by the time it was due for change it used 2quarts of oil. I’ve tried many brands of 10w30 but no success. Finally I was suggested to use a High Mileage synthetic blend oil which was Castrol High Mileage synthetic blend 10w30. By the third oil change it reduced consumption in half and I’ve been sold ever since.
Can you do a video about the primary differences between conventional, hybrid, and full synthetic oils?
Thanks!
I can speak for all of us m50/m52 boys on this one, but this was actually really helpful
I was confidently rebuilding engines at 19 years old, and applaud your video - online with my experience - that synthetic is the way to go. The last bastion of fighting a thicker oil is variable valve timing mechanisms being knocked out of sync. And of course syn's are thinner than comparable standard oils.
My dad had been using conventional 10w-10 motor oil in his cars since at least 1960 so synthetic doesn’t have the corner of working in cars. As long as you don’t use heavier motor oil for a while and try to switch back thinner oil will continue to work fine. When heavy oil is used the clearances has to wear before the heavy oil will circulate where the thin oil had no problem.
@joe pimental who the heck taught you about oil? A viscosity weight oil is no different on conventional or synthetic. You obviously don't know what your talking about.
joe, I think you're addressin two issues, as the video did. That 1) sythetics are good, and (2) (not as clear) that the thicker oil argument (also a tangent in the video, not specific to synthetics) is also a concern for VVT. I don't work on others' cars but I do review many, and I've seen the issues you're alluding to, I think. Timing chains/tensioners too. Stay in spec...
Thanks for the info regarding the Rotary engine, was interested in that!
Decades ago my dealer asked me not to use synthetic in my Mazda RX-7 Rotary Engine. Mazda also had a sticker with the same statement under the hood. I was told that the rotary engine did not get hot enough for synthetic oil use in the 1990s. I moved a few times and multiple Mazda dealer service shops enforced high quality conventional oil for rotary engines as they ran cooler.
When all is said and done :-)
Good video, as always.
You haven't addressed the need for ZDDP in "old" engines, those with flat tappet cams. Much more important than leaking seals.
Yes would be helpful
i was waiting for him to talk flat tappet high spring pressure cars, didn't happen
You tell tell them. This guy doesn't tell the whole story! I had a two flat tappet jeep one got over 400000k on it !the second just over a 100k ! Found out the U.S. government had oil companies change their formula for fuel economy .this new formula oil is find for roller motors but not flat hydraulic cams! Why this information isn't main stream news is beyond me! Thanks A lot you all good for nothing left .
While it cost me thousands!!!
Reg Fake thanks!!
@@Roadking556 IMO because rollers started being mainstream in the mid 80s, and the number of 40+ y/o cars out there is low. If its a built motor you should know what is needed.
All motor oils now have seal conditioner, both synthetic and non-synthetic and not just high mileage oils, which are slightly higher in viscosity. The one engine I remember higher viscosity oil fixing excessive oil consumption, is the old Ford Escort, that had crankcase ventilation issues. Just going from a 5W30 to a 10W30 oil, actually reduced oil consumption to an acceptable amount in those engines.
Just for informational reasons. If your oil light flickers and the oil level is okay check the oil psi sensor before switching to a higher viscosity oil. I have found this issue on several vehicals.
*vehicles
The leaks were there already, synthetic just allowed the hidden to be apparent.
Sometimes I just want it to stay hidden
@@evilkillerwhale7078 that way, your engine will die sooner. Great thought.
@@R4M_Tommy no it won’t lol if gunk is holding that oil in let it!
@@mercury0214 And if that gunk blocks oil getting to where it's really needed and it dies even sooner? Fix the real problem - the seals, before you destroy the whole engine! A stitch in time saves nine!
@@ValkyrieStarTV oil leaks outside your engine big Brain how is gunk on the outside gonna clog your engine you mong?
I use AmsOil in my 79 Continental, 86 Grand Marquis and 86 F-250. All are getting old, and all of them run GREAT on high end synthetic. If anything, it has greatly reduced oil burning and leaking.
This was a great video. Thankyou. 👍
Outstanding video on the topic.
I've just passed 300,000km in my car running Mobil1 since day 1, maybe it's time to switch to high mileage stuff as my consumption has reached 1L/1500km,
although I found one of the two PCV ports under the throttle plate clogged which once un plugged seems to have reduced the consumption a bit.
Still, no leaks, no visible smoke and no loss of performance at this mileage made the premium oil investment well worthwhile long term.
Your choice - I went to this product with above excellent result
Interestingly about the same here on M1....
Why not fix the clogs?
When i had a RX7 i never thought about adding some 2-stroke oil to the fuel.
Might have helped the wear my car engine experienced.
I sold my RX7 6 months after I bought it new because it used as much oil as gas
@@alanpoh3386 There is a regulator on the engine, might not have been set right.
One thing that's very important when using any modern oil in an old engine is zinc additives for very old cars with flat tappet camshafts
Thank you for the great info and great video
Removing the oil metering and premixing making the rotary what it should be from the beginning: a rotary 2 cycle-ish.
Also, synthetics got their reputation for leaking from the very first ones. (I think Mobil was there too) They didn't even "look" like oil, but were a silvery/ graphite color and thin as water. Those even came with a notice on the can that you oil pressure light or gauge would flicker at idel and not to be concerned about it. "Your engine is still being properly lubricated" .
Anyone else remember those?
my dad ruined an opel gt engine with graphite oil it wasnt a modern synthetic oil though.
ive noticed synthetics or perhaps specific mixtures going black and watery more quickly than blends or conventional. that said the top end of my engines has improved as i do regular oil changes. magnatec kind of scares me at how fast it burned of by comparion. supertechs high mileage seems to be pretty good at lubricating and cleaning the engine.
ran supertech in my 2.3 Ranger from 66 k miles to 292 k and had a head gasket go bad, took apart the motor and had almost zero wear , even the valve guides were perfect, always changed a 3 k miles.
this video never gets old.
I had two vehicles in the late 80s (1981 Buick Regal, and 1984 Buick Rivera) that always had used conventional oil. I switched to Mobile1 synthetic in each one after I got the vehicles because I wanted to run the best oil I could. Both developed valve cover gasket oil leaks shortly thereafter. I know of multiple other guys who had the same problem. I think that it had to do with the age and type of gaskets used at that time ..... probably cork that were set and the smaller particles of the synthetic oil were able to penetrate and cause the leaks. This was only for the valve cover gaskets that leaked, everything else was fine. That was my thinking anyway.
With that being said. I only use Mobile1 full synthetic now in all of my cars and there are no issues.
Yes. Same here...
I always heard years ago that syn oil would clean the engine especially were the inner side of the seal make contact to the surface of the crank or cam on high mileage older engine. but that old news now with the newer syn oil!
Love the lecture. Good info.
Thanks for posting
240k on my 99 civic used on my courier job. Supertech high mileage synthetic oil keeps it running great
One additional thing you should’ve touched on is the lack of zddp in modern synthetic oils that were used to protect flat tappet cams in old engines.
Thankfully new oils compensate by using higher levels of Boron, Molybdenum Disulfide, and Titanium Oxide, which is enough protection for new engines. But still not enough for flat tappet cam engines
Diesel oils still have plenty of it. Or you need to go to something like amsoil z-rod.
Another old wives tale...quality synthetics have more than enough ZDDP for older engines. All you need is the proper viscosity to maintain correct oil pressure.
I have a jeep 4.0 and I recently read in the Jeep forums people saying these old flat tappet cams need sync or you'll ruin them. So guys run different diesel oils etc. I have been running supertech 5w-30 for years without a problem. Jeep has 212k miles.
ZDDP is the last line of defense when the oil film is displaced. Or so I am led to understand. And it’s fatal to modern catalytic converters. Bye-bye zinc additives at high levels like in the past.
Love our videos, I could really use videos in at around 5mins though...
Love it though, keep going!
Best information & review!
Hey brother. I have always highly valued your education on these in depth subjects. During my time in the field I have personally seen vehicles that started leaking oil almost immedietly after switching to a full synthetic. At these times, we have found things like SOLID valve cover gaskets. which has turned to more of a plastic than a rubber. I have personally seen this take place, multiple times over my years in the field. lets say about half a dozen times.
Can there be a situation we're not entirely covering? Could full synthetic FNISH OFF an already failing seal? This last vehicle,a subaru, LITERALLY was POURING out from the valve cover gasket(and I get that its sideways and gravity helps vs a horizontal valve cover) and I trully feel that their is something more to this discussion. This is the ONLY reson I have ever found to NOT "upgrade" to a full synthetic. Never learned it from anyone, and they didnt teach it in college, but my own personal experience tells me there is merit to the discussion. For the record were talking of course modern cars(say 1996 and newer) and oils. I get that debris being dislodged and the extra detergents COULD remove a leak stopping block, but I find it extremely difficult to believe that is what made the difference between a bone dry motor, and a day later a pouring oilfall. I would love to hear your thoughts on this in more detail. If you end up with the time, thank you ahead of time. Please keep up the excellent work.
Just came across this video today. I have a 2010 impala that had virtually no oil leaking. The last oil change or two I used a thinner synthetic (5w30) vs conventional 10w30, and it now has a quite a bit of leaking. I'm not sure it's caused by the synthetic aspect of the oil, but likely more the viscosity. I'll switch back to conventional on the next oil change and see if that changes anything.
@@johnsawatzky9380 i recommend going for a full synthetic 10w30 just to see if its the viscosity or the fact its synthetic. If it stops leaking while using full synthetic 10w30 then you know its the viscosity
@@johnsawatzky9380 Never change the viscosity on your vehicle, especially going to a thinner oil on an older vehicle. I suspect if you went to a similar weight synthetic it should stop the leak, theoretically speaking.
Older bikes can have clutch issues as the engine and transmission share oil. Pre 2000 and full synthetic can great slipping. You should use a good synthetic if you can. I have for 2 decades with no oil related issues on 4 cars.
100%. Its like pouring water into a basket. Or in the engine. Besides. Read my post. Its all hype. No petro no hype.
Mobil 1 high-mileage synthetic has saved 3 of my old vehicles by stopping minor leaks that would be too expensive for me to fix otherwise. One has been leak free for over a decade since I started using high mileage synthetic oil.
I had the same experience, but it was with Valvoline Maxlife initially. I've used about all the other hi-mileage oils and they all work well...synthetic or not.
@@trpbee Yup, it's great stuff, I hope more people learn about them and use them.
about the thicker oil for worn out engines: I've been doing that for years to buy me time to get the parts for a rebuild or replace. My old Dodge Dakota's 3.9 got to where it wouldn't hold oil pressure at idle in the summer when running the A/C. I simply started adding Lucas to the oil at oil changes. I bought a new engine to put in it, and drove on for 50K miles before other issues made the replacement required. Still wasn't having oil pressure issues so long as I added the Lucas. When I tore the engine down, I found the rod bearings to be fairly worn, and the mains to have a good deal of wear as well. The issue that pressed me into replacing the engine?... a belly pan gasket on the intake failed and it was inhaling oil from the valley.
Thanks for the video. Going to the store now to get some high mileage mobil 1
Switched my old impala over to synthetic and have had zero issues
What synthetic oil did you use? Most synthetic on the market now days is not full synthetic!
@@Roadking556 GM Dexos
@@Mr-zi2bn sorry not familiar with that oil. Not sure if it is a true synthetic
@@Mr-zi2bn and unfortunately outr government here in the us lets manufacture advertise full.synthetic when in fact it is not .and your screen name makes me uncomfortable.
@@Mr-zi2bn GM Dexos is a synthetic blend, and a 30% synthetic, 70% conventional blend at that. Not really equivalent to the synthetic being tested here.
I have been running Synthetic oils in my Hi Mile Cars for the past 15 yrs. Some were switched with over 200,000 on them, no problems
Thank you very much for explaining in detail.
Thank you sir, great video!