By Annie Soft & Stable comes in black and white. It is clingy and you don't need to quilt it to attach it to the outer fabric. This is a nice option. I buy Soft & Stable in the largest size. If you open the bag and undo it, it will relax and any folds that came from being in the bag disappears. That of course requires some extra room to store it. Well worth it if you can. As you mentioned, it depends on the style of bag, but for "fashion" bags as opposed to totes and shopping bags, I have come to use Soft and Stable exclusively. It is wonderful in Lazy Girl Design bags. Pellon SF101 is definitely my goto for lining, pockets, etc. One tip, if you want to use a fusible batting for a slouchy bag or shopping bag, you can make your own. If you are a quilter as I am, I always have a lot of batting scraps around; but, they are not fusible. Just cut a piece of Pellon Wonder Under the size of your batting and fuse it to batting scraps.Voila!! Fusible batting. I buy Wonder Under by the bolt (just like SF101) when there are 50% off or more sales.
Very helpful info.!! I used to use a lot of fusible products for basting and now steer away from it when I can because it causes the sewing needle to get gunky with adhesives. That causes all sorts of trouble until I replace the needle. I now rely more on good pressing and clips or pins to hold things in place. TFS
Great video. Really helpful in clarifying the sometimes confusing world of bag interfacing. Thank you. Look forward to watching your By Annie Get Out of Town video as well because it is my next project
I would suggest that a person try a few times with the fusible. After a little practice, there is no better look to the finished Tote, purse, etc. And quilting is never needed but does beautifully with this method. I have made many totes this way, for years and practice is the key. Even though it's scary at first, you quickly get used to handling it. Maybe this will encourage people to try it.
I've done a Sew Sweetness bag that uses fusible foam (Bosel). I've never encountered any problems with wrinkling as you mention when "birthing the bag." I simply iron the bag when it's complete and it looks great.
Hey, I'm a "bag lady" too - Sew Sweetness patterns are great; yes, a lot of birthing of bags! Sew in foam is my favorite. I had used one of the fusible foam products and after total completion I went to put a few finishing ironing touches on the exterior of the bag & doggone, I got a wrinkle where the fused foam shifted. So from then on I've been a sew in foam gal only. I know you said you're ironing the foam to remove the folds; I found if I hover my iron with plenty of steam going that it really helps, almost like it's rehydrating the foam (tip from Crafty Gemini and it really helps). Look forward to your how to sew the By Annie's duffle. Thank you for a great video!
Hovering over the foam with steam is a great idea. Crafty Gemini is always a great resource for crafting techniques of all kinds. I was really nervous to put an iron directly on the foam. The duffle has been a great project. I'm still not sure if I prefer binding or the linings Sew Sweetness uses in her bags. Thanks,
Just what I was asking today. I've made many bags mostly utilitarian with mainly pack fabrics of every kind utilized. So I decided to make a YARN bag for a friend. My own design as my usual when an idea pops into my head. So what's been tripping me up from moving forward after making the cording & cutting out the basic fabrics is I do need it to be a stand up bag. And it also needs to have 6-8 grommets set around the upper 1/3 of the bag to allow yarns to come out of each. I count base fabric side and front as 2 layers, pockets with lining 4 more layers, vinyl cording another 2. My machine is known to handle thick heavy fabrics so far I'm good. But never having used the foam or bag stiffeners to stabilize the sides to insure it stands up? That will add yet two more layers. UNLESS I've seen several bag makers demonstrate cutting the fusible stabilizer foam out that's one sided but cutting it smaller than the width of the machine foot and using either a narrow machine foot or even the zipper foot right up to the stabilizer to help reduce thickness and still get great results. Never having done that I'm not sure it'll look good all the seams. I intend to have a loose lining so it won't be constructed into the main fabric of the bags only attached at t he very top. And of course when the grommets are set that will also secure the lining further to the bag. I also would like to do a double pocket on front side of bag adding yet another single layer to each of the side seams. I'm not so much worried about the fabric puckering if using fusible and plan to use just one side fusible not double. again not seating the bag lining to the bag in that way. I made similar cordura large tote and dual rucksack utilizing the shoulder straps into hidden corner D rings and middle at top D ring if need be as a wedding gift that wrapped the missionary couples gifts instead of spending money on fancy wrapping paper etc. I did the math and the cost of the gift wrappings and all it's trappings would cost about what it would to make the very pretty light blue tote with 5 pockets. And interior pockets. Was beautiful when complete. I was asked by several other people to please make them one. I don't make patterns I tend to sew what ever pattern if any as I go along. In the end I quickly forget what size a bag was or what how in their case I installed a hidden bottom zippered compartment into the outside of the bag. No idea to this day. The bag pretty much stood on it's own due to the stiffness of the cordura pack cloth. But not all pack cloth is stiff it varies a lot even cordura in the same weight can vary and if it's washed can loose it's ability to stand up. Cording will help. As far as zippers go I intend to use the fabric tabs on the ends to help reduce the problem of sewing over them in already over layered side seams. I think it's coming down to my making a smaller trial run more simple bag to see how the addition of pellon or similar media works with cut slightly shorter than the seam itself and of course fusing the one side. I just would prefer not having to experiment. Then again due to the pandemic I had trouble getting all the right fabrics and materials together and I ended up with smaller yardages and now have those odds and ends in pink to do something with. And my usual circle of friends and family members none are into PINK. I'm an anything brown and green person. Fingers crossed I start construction tomorrow.
hi im want to make a denim bag i saw on youtube, it said to use polyester interfacing, but no number or brand was given, it looks like make be 1/4 thickness, and she sprayed adhesive. Do you know any good recommendations? i asked her, but no response.
Loved your video. I was wondering if you have worked with craft fuse by Pelion. Any information on your experience with this interfacing as far as bags are concerned would be most appreciated
i started making jean Totes that are 15" X 15" (4 panels on each side to make ht e15 by 15) and I was using extra firm 809. That doesn't seem to be what I should be using and I do want it stiffer. Which one for jean tote would you suggest? and would you make the interfacing the same size as fabric so it is in the seam allowance? I will definitely use the SF101 for the lining
I am making a bag, and it has a drop in lining, and my question is I have the Flex Foam 1 sided fusible...can you fuse the cut piece to your fabric, and then cut out your piece so that you don't have to cut twice (fabric and then the flex foam)? I want to make sure both pieces are even, and not crooked as sometimes the cut can be off a little bit on either piece. I also have to cut 2" squares at the bottom sides of the front and back of the bag. I noticed you only made referrence to birthing a bag, and not anything about a drop in lining, so that is why I'm asking. Thank you!
Sounds like a good idea but you would have a lot of waste after cutting out the pattern unless it is a simple pattern that would only be rectangle pieces, squares, etc.
I just bought that pattern, “GET OUUT OF TOWN DUFFLE 2.0” and am lost with the directions. Do you have a video available on the instructions to sew this pattern. Please I need help. Debbie
If I quilt the pattern with the sew in foam how much will the fabric shrink from the original cut? When I embroider on quilt squares I typically see a loss of 1/4 inch on all sides.
The rare time that I have used the non-fusible foam is when I quilt the entire piece, and then cut out my pattern pieces. I use fusible flex foam on a regular basis and never have had it wrinkle.
I thought about trying that but I was worried that if an iron or other extreme heat was exposed to the sides it would adhere unevenly. If you try it let us know how it turned out.
Unfortunately she didn’t differentiate between which have 1-sided fusing, 2sided fusing (Bosal In-R-Foam Plus is 2 Sided! And that’s the 2nd one she presents, u can read it on the label!)
I think they all have the option of buying a two and single sided fusible product or no adhesive versions. She favors the ones with no adhesive properties. She's just primarily attempting to give you the brand names out there not so much as show you each brand not specifics to the brand other than stating they do come both ways with and without adhesive qualities. I'm not confused at all. And not worried that she had any given with or without adhesive in her stacks. I know what she meant by having issues with folds in the products that are difficult to get out. I've on occasion had to cut out pieces of folded fabric like pack cloth which often have a coated back side to make it more weather and water resistant and also stabilizers so I cut a piece a bit larger than my pattern will use and dampen it with water and try to dry iron out. If that fails I wet the entire item but not soak and put into a mesh laundry bag and run on low through my drier. The smaller pieces in my larger mesh laundry bags usually prevent any new formed folds. A pillow case might work too for larger pieces. Anyway this would be for non fused stabilizer with or without the adhesive properties. Thus the cool to no heat drier setting if it has the adhesive properties. So I didn't find it unfortunate that she didn't go into detail about differentiating between the brands properties about fusing or not, one sided or two. Her favorite was no adhesive and why. Her title of this article clearly states HER FAVORITE and WHY. Not a complete overview of brands and their properties. My search today has been to figure out how some bag makers use fusible one sided or two but trim it short of the actual seam line. If you want your bag to be occasional washable I'd worry adhesive might not hold up to that. I am not aware of the full properties or expectations of such adhesives for laundry soaps and solutions. Oh which reminds me NEVER EVER use any of the oxy products that are in detergents or stand alone in coated fabrics like pack cloth because it destroys it. And my guess is it would destroy in a few washings the adhesive between the fabric and the stabilizer. I'm guessing but on experience to date it would be a good educational guess. Stay safe everyone and have fun making STUFF you then gift.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
By Annie Soft & Stable comes in black and white. It is clingy and you don't need to quilt it to attach it to the outer fabric. This is a nice option. I buy Soft & Stable in the largest size. If you open the bag and undo it, it will relax and any folds that came from being in the bag disappears. That of course requires some extra room to store it. Well worth it if you can. As you mentioned, it depends on the style of bag, but for "fashion" bags as opposed to totes and shopping bags, I have come to use Soft and Stable exclusively. It is wonderful in Lazy Girl Design bags. Pellon SF101 is definitely my goto for lining, pockets, etc. One tip, if you want to use a fusible batting for a slouchy bag or shopping bag, you can make your own. If you are a quilter as I am, I always have a lot of batting scraps around; but, they are not fusible. Just cut a piece of Pellon Wonder Under the size of your batting and fuse it to batting scraps.Voila!! Fusible batting. I buy Wonder Under by the bolt (just like SF101) when there are 50% off or more sales.
Very helpful info.!! I used to use a lot of fusible products for basting and now steer away from it when I can because it causes the sewing needle to get gunky with adhesives. That causes all sorts of trouble until I replace the needle. I now rely more on good pressing and clips or pins to hold things in place. TFS
This was very helpful, as well as a couple of comments. Thank you❣️
Great video. Really helpful in clarifying the sometimes confusing world of bag interfacing. Thank you. Look forward to watching your By Annie Get Out of Town video as well because it is my next project
I would suggest that a person try a few times with the fusible. After a little practice, there is no better look to the finished Tote, purse, etc. And quilting is never needed but does beautifully with this method. I have made many totes this way, for years and practice is the key. Even though it's scary at first, you quickly get used to handling it. Maybe this will encourage people to try it.
@Vickie I would like to hear your tips on using the fusible as I struggle with getting the wrinkles out.
I've done a Sew Sweetness bag that uses fusible foam (Bosel). I've never encountered any problems with wrinkling as you mention when "birthing the bag." I simply iron the bag when it's complete and it looks great.
Thank goodness for your video.
Thanks for the info! Great description.
Hey, I'm a "bag lady" too - Sew Sweetness patterns are great; yes, a lot of birthing of bags! Sew in foam is my favorite. I had used one of the fusible foam products and after total completion I went to put a few finishing ironing touches on the exterior of the bag & doggone, I got a wrinkle where the fused foam shifted. So from then on I've been a sew in foam gal only.
I know you said you're ironing the foam to remove the folds; I found if I hover my iron with plenty of steam going that it really helps, almost like it's rehydrating the foam (tip from Crafty Gemini and it really helps). Look forward to your how to sew the By Annie's duffle. Thank you for a great video!
Hovering over the foam with steam is a great idea. Crafty Gemini is always a great resource for crafting techniques of all kinds. I was really nervous to put an iron directly on the foam.
The duffle has been a great project. I'm still not sure if I prefer binding or the linings Sew Sweetness uses in her bags.
Thanks,
Very nice content I learned alot just getting into bab making thank you
Glad to help
Just what I was asking today. I've made many bags mostly utilitarian with mainly pack fabrics of every kind utilized. So I decided to make a YARN bag for a friend. My own design as my usual when an idea pops into my head. So what's been tripping me up from moving forward after making the cording & cutting out the basic fabrics is I do need it to be a stand up bag. And it also needs to have 6-8 grommets set around the upper 1/3 of the bag to allow yarns to come out of each. I count base fabric side and front as 2 layers, pockets with lining 4 more layers, vinyl cording another 2. My machine is known to handle thick heavy fabrics so far I'm good. But never having used the foam or bag stiffeners to stabilize the sides to insure it stands up? That will add yet two more layers. UNLESS I've seen several bag makers demonstrate cutting the fusible stabilizer foam out that's one sided but cutting it smaller than the width of the machine foot and using either a narrow machine foot or even the zipper foot right up to the stabilizer to help reduce thickness and still get great results. Never having done that I'm not sure it'll look good all the seams. I intend to have a loose lining so it won't be constructed into the main fabric of the bags only attached at t he very top. And of course when the grommets are set that will also secure the lining further to the bag. I also would like to do a double pocket on front side of bag adding yet another single layer to each of the side seams. I'm not so much worried about the fabric puckering if using fusible and plan to use just one side fusible not double. again not seating the bag lining to the bag in that way. I made similar cordura large tote and dual rucksack utilizing the shoulder straps into hidden corner D rings and middle at top D ring if need be as a wedding gift that wrapped the missionary couples gifts instead of spending money on fancy wrapping paper etc. I did the math and the cost of the gift wrappings and all it's trappings would cost about what it would to make the very pretty light blue tote with 5 pockets. And interior pockets. Was beautiful when complete. I was asked by several other people to please make them one. I don't make patterns I tend to sew what ever pattern if any as I go along. In the end I quickly forget what size a bag was or what how in their case I installed a hidden bottom zippered compartment into the outside of the bag. No idea to this day. The bag pretty much stood on it's own due to the stiffness of the cordura pack cloth. But not all pack cloth is stiff it varies a lot even cordura in the same weight can vary and if it's washed can loose it's ability to stand up. Cording will help. As far as zippers go I intend to use the fabric tabs on the ends to help reduce the problem of sewing over them in already over layered side seams. I think it's coming down to my making a smaller trial run more simple bag to see how the addition of pellon or similar media works with cut slightly shorter than the seam itself and of course fusing the one side. I just would prefer not having to experiment. Then again due to the pandemic I had trouble getting all the right fabrics and materials together and I ended up with smaller yardages and now have those odds and ends in pink to do something with. And my usual circle of friends and family members none are into PINK. I'm an anything brown and green person. Fingers crossed I start construction tomorrow.
hi im want to make a denim bag i saw on youtube, it said to use polyester interfacing, but no number or brand was given, it looks like make be 1/4 thickness, and she sprayed adhesive. Do you know any good recommendations? i asked her, but no response.
Very good info. Thank you.
Thank you! Very helpful!
I like the sew in types
Loved your video. I was wondering if you have worked with craft fuse by Pelion. Any information on your experience with this interfacing as far as bags are concerned would be most appreciated
I haven't used craft fuse. I have used SF101 and I love it for giving body to a project.
great video how can you get discount coupons for interfacings
By Annies has black soft & stable
i started making jean Totes that are 15" X 15" (4 panels on each side to make ht e15 by 15) and I was using extra firm 809. That doesn't seem to be what I should be using and I do want it stiffer. Which one for jean tote would you suggest? and would you make the interfacing the same size as fabric so it is in the seam allowance? I will definitely use the SF101 for the lining
I am making a bag, and it has a drop in lining, and my question is I have the Flex Foam 1 sided fusible...can you fuse the cut piece to your fabric, and then cut out your piece so that you don't have to cut twice (fabric and then the flex foam)? I want to make sure both pieces are even, and not crooked as sometimes the cut can be off a little bit on either piece. I also have to cut 2" squares at the bottom sides of the front and back of the bag. I noticed you only made referrence to birthing a bag, and not anything about a drop in lining, so that is why I'm asking. Thank you!
Sounds like a good idea but you would have a lot of waste after cutting out the pattern unless it is a simple pattern that would only be rectangle pieces, squares, etc.
I just bought that pattern, “GET OUUT OF TOWN DUFFLE 2.0” and am lost with the directions. Do you have a video available on the instructions to sew this pattern. Please I need help.
Debbie
If I quilt the pattern with the sew in foam how much will the fabric shrink from the original cut? When I embroider on quilt squares I typically see a loss of 1/4 inch on all sides.
I always allow an inch just to be sure.
When using the non fusible foam, how do you attach it to the fabric?
The rare time that I have used the non-fusible foam is when I quilt the entire piece, and then cut out my pattern pieces. I use fusible flex foam on a regular basis and never have had it wrinkle.
If you have fusible can you just sew it in?
I was wondering this as well.
I thought about trying that but I was worried that if an iron or other extreme heat was exposed to the sides it would adhere unevenly. If you try it let us know how it turned out.
Unfortunately she didn’t differentiate between which have 1-sided fusing, 2sided fusing (Bosal In-R-Foam Plus is 2 Sided! And that’s the 2nd one she presents, u can read it on the label!)
I think they all have the option of buying a two and single sided fusible product or no adhesive versions. She favors the ones with no adhesive properties. She's just primarily attempting to give you the brand names out there not so much as show you each brand not specifics to the brand other than stating they do come both ways with and without adhesive qualities. I'm not confused at all. And not worried that she had any given with or without adhesive in her stacks. I know what she meant by having issues with folds in the products that are difficult to get out. I've on occasion had to cut out pieces of folded fabric like pack cloth which often have a coated back side to make it more weather and water resistant and also stabilizers so I cut a piece a bit larger than my pattern will use and dampen it with water and try to dry iron out. If that fails I wet the entire item but not soak and put into a mesh laundry bag and run on low through my drier. The smaller pieces in my larger mesh laundry bags usually prevent any new formed folds. A pillow case might work too for larger pieces. Anyway this would be for non fused stabilizer with or without the adhesive properties. Thus the cool to no heat drier setting if it has the adhesive properties. So I didn't find it unfortunate that she didn't go into detail about differentiating between the brands properties about fusing or not, one sided or two. Her favorite was no adhesive and why. Her title of this article clearly states HER FAVORITE and WHY. Not a complete overview of brands and their properties. My search today has been to figure out how some bag makers use fusible one sided or two but trim it short of the actual seam line. If you want your bag to be occasional washable I'd worry adhesive might not hold up to that. I am not aware of the full properties or expectations of such adhesives for laundry soaps and solutions. Oh which reminds me NEVER EVER use any of the oxy products that are in detergents or stand alone in coated fabrics like pack cloth because it destroys it. And my guess is it would destroy in a few washings the adhesive between the fabric and the stabilizer. I'm guessing but on experience to date it would be a good educational guess. Stay safe everyone and have fun making STUFF you then gift.
Does the sew in foam separate from the fabric? I dont understand how the foam stays put if its not fused in? 😳
It is sewn into the seam allowances. I hope that helps. Thank you,
As per Annie, it will fold where you stitch for instance on the corners.
12:00 Ha HA HAA JoAnn's is a joke. I get all my materials when I go to Shady Maple and they give me great deals!).
Carolyn you speak for yourself obviously.
The Joann were I live is great and helpful .we don't have to many places to choose from