Footwork for Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- When we start climbing, we are so fixated on our arms. Due to daily life, we have a sense of security. Our hands and our arms are going to provide us security and safety, but in reality, the localized energy from the forearms is finite. These are a small group of muscles that we need to use as efficiently as possible. Our legs and core are very powerful and can not only create the drive, but can also take the weight off our arms - ONLY if you have confidence in your foot placement.
There are 4 key stages to footwork:
1. Precision & Accuracy leads to the
2. Confidence in order to apply
3 Pressure so that you can gain
4. Trust
This video is focused on (1) - precision and accuracy.
In a nutshell it ALL comes down to watching your big toe go onto the hold.
Pre-empting movement so you can pivot, twist and turn. By watching your toe place, you will not have to adjust, bounce, tap or have doubt.
You be confident and therefore can relax your arms and drive with your feet.
This is one of the key techniques for climbing you can immediately apply to every climb you ever get on. Find yourself bouncing, looking up last second etc, repeat in better form.
Whilst learning, it is natural that you may over-grip. Acknowledge this and then relax.
A big thank you to Galen Peterson for filming and editing this video. Check out his RUclips @galenpeterson5015
Big thanks to @movementgyms for letting us film at their Denver Baker location.
Enjoy and tag us in your Instagram posts
Tag @roap.c @alex_puccio89 and @robinoleary on Instagram for us to see your progress.
If you are interested in training with Robin O'Leary & Alex Puccio (ROAP), please check out www.roapcoachi... for more info.
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Really like this video! I shared it with friends who like to kick the wall while climbing
Thank you CHANGYUE!!!❤
you’re extremely articulate and precise with your words and descriptions. great video!
Wow, thank you!
It's interesting not just cool!
Excellent - we thought so too! :)
Can you talk about Footwork on a large module? should the foot be close or far from the wall?
Obviously we can do more videos on this topic, but as a “general” rule, you always want to lessen the angle of the wall, so standing further away from the wall can and will do this.
Especially when I am sport climbing, I feel like I need to move quickly on the wall to not get fatigued. Do you think being slow and deliberate with my feet could be costly on endurance climbs? Conversely, how do I speed up my movements when needed without compromising technique? I find that I can practice solid technique on easy terrain, but when the difficulty ramps, I fall back into old movement habits.
Anecdotally I've found that visualising/solidifying the next foot sequence whilst you're climbing (in combination with reading the route from the ground) helps reduce the time it takes to look at each foot placement, due to being more confident in the placement if you commit to the sequence.
Excellent questions. I (Robin) remember being over at Sportiva in Italy with Ondra when he warmed up on a 13b/8a. He climbed it so quickly and made errors, his feet slipped here and there and I asked him about this exact point. He said that he sometimes focuses on speed - that being the primary focus and expects to lose some control - as long as it is not catastrophic. In this circumstance he expected to make errors as he was essentially speed climbing a 13b. That said, when he focuses on speed + precision - an onsight or redpoint attempt, he will not willingly make errors, so it's a bit like a tug of war I guess - take and give where necessary - but when it counts, you can't sacrifice precision.
Interesting concept. Essentially the more detailed route read, i.e. "feeling the hold" with your hands and doing the same with the feet! Keen to try it!
All your videos are so helpfull and precise. A gold mine for the great beginner i am (1 month of climbing - 5c+ and some easy 6a max...but also 1m92 😅).
Thanks a lot from France ✌️
Ahhh, merci beaucoup!!
Glad they are serving the purpose and helping!
Thanks for your support! 🙏
Great job on the first video! Looking forward to more
Thanks Kevin! Yes, looking forward to releasing more!
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Nice camera work. Well articulate. Straight to the point. Great examples with exgeration so we really understand what is wrong and then well explained. Im looking forward for the future of this channel !
Great, thanks for the comment and feedback!
I like how accurate your presentation is. It's easy to follow and fun to watch. Thank you for sharing!!
Ahh, thank you! Thanks for watching!
Great video. I wish you all the succes in this new endeavour! You guys are the best 💪🔥
Thank you Etienne!
Pysched.
Whoop!! Thanks Jesster
Very original you guys are impressive
Thank you! Not super original, but an essential technique video
Really Helpful..Thank you.
Great to hear, thank you Frankie!
pretty😍
Thank you! Galen did the filming and editing!
movement baker?
Yes!!!!
Such useful content. Thank you.
Quickly becoming a loyal subscriber!! thank you
decent😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thanks, stay tuned for more videos. Hopefully one a week.
Excellent. Learnt a lot
Brilliant, glad to know. Thanks for the like and comment.
Great video!
Thank you again Damien!!!
nice!💝
Thank you!