Been climbing for a handful of years~v7 indoor climber and I’m still learning a ton in your videos! Awesome work educating everyone of all levels. You’re explaining why I do things that I didn’t quite understand the reason I was doing it. Nice videos!
Love the more analytical approach to these videos compared to the many other footwork videos on here. Applying these tips however becomes much more complex on steeper terrain because driving the knee forward and hips up changes your body position on hand holds especially if they aren’t incut. Another video addressing how to not just push yourself up and out with your feet but instead create tension between hands and feet would be great
Absolutely! It’s n the agenda very soon. A few more footwork vids to get through and then we get to play with body movement which is when it gets really fun.
I really appreciate how you break down the mechanisms behind good footwork here. Super interesting. Have you considered doing a video on the mechanisms of toe and heel hooking?
Very nice explanation, much better than the videos that just say "drop your heals you'll stick better". I love that you talked about the position of the ankle changing where your centre of mass is, so many people miss that! One slight change I'd make to the explanation (coming from a physics background) is that the surface area has nothing to do with friction, to get the maximum friction the force you apply to the hold needs to be at 90 degrees to the surface. So for the small positive holds which have a horizontal lip, your foot is above them as you described so that the force is at 90 degrees to the hold, for the slopers you drop your heal, which brings the hips out and the force is again applied at 90 degrees to the surface. The actual surface area in contact doesn't matter, just the direction of force. (this is still the best video I've seen out there and is incredibly useful) =)
Hey Holly, you’re absolutely right. It is all about the force going through it the area. When explaining this principle to less experienced climbers, we’ve found teaching them about maximizing surface area initially is easier for comprehension and then discuss forces and the application of pressure subsequently, but you are absolutely right.
@@roapcoaching917 That makes perfect sense! Good to hear the reasoning behind it, there's so much going on when you're learning that I presume (for most people) a physics lecture isn't what they're looking for
I was curious about this statement as it contradicts all the common climbing knowledge basicaly lol. But doing some research seems like surface area does in fact matter for rubber. Lots of infos I found talked about tires and race cars but the conclusion is that the high school/college formula and experiment with flat volumes sliding on top of each other with a mass attached does not apply to the situation of car tire or climbing shoes.
@@tpa3437 I agree that high school physics is no where near enough for this, the physics of racing tires is particularly interesting! So many variables! I gues the main problem with rubber is that it's so bendy, so you get more than 1 type of friction. Its a wonderful subject 😃
Awesome, I've been looking for a video about applications of pressure when I'm climbing. You did a fantastic job of explaining the concept! Keep up the great work man. Looking forward to other videos.
With really small edges, the smedging technique, which contradicts everything you said, even if the holds are positive, you want to drop your heel to have the positive edge of the hold catch on the sole of the shoe, not the edge. This footwork technique brought me from 5.11+ to 5.13.
This has always made sense as when youre using a smeared foot it really only works when your hips are really far from the wall, but how do you engage a dropped heel when the hand is very slopey or going for a dynamic move where getting you body closer to the wall will make you feet slip?
Great question. The smear is a great example and as a supporting or driving leg it can create a lot of energy which has to be harnessed by technique throughout the rest of the body - be it the other ankle/foot, knees, hips etc. with slopers you will obviously have to be below it for maximum efficiency and bringing your hips out will worsen optimal directional force. At times like this, our ankle flexion is incredibly important in helping us keep hips closer to the wall.
Does curling toes with raised heels ( non-slopey foot holds) and spreading toes with dropped heels (slopey foot holds) add more pressure on feet when climbing?
Absolutely, depending on the move. Ankle articulation really helps bring the hips closer to the wall. Obviously if you’re in a position that requires you to be front on, then it’s less effective. But with drop knees, absolutely!!
The driving up of the heel for the more positive footholds feels very much like something I've been missing. Trying it now and feel like I've had a bit of an epiphanette. Any drills that you'd recommend to make this more intuitive? I've been trying ti add this awareness to my warm ups, but its easy to loose sight of. Thanks!
Yes, practicing this in your warm-up routine on easier ground is crucial. Essentially, on larger holds and vertical walls, where you can really focus on perfect movement. Start low, place the heel, then try to keep the hanf=d low to help you pivot over the pivot point (heel). Obviously drilling one legged squats (TRX assistance) helps too.
Hey! How does this work for little knuckle holds (you know, the little nubs that maybe don't have the +'ve lip, still extruded, but not exactly a -'ve sloper hold)
@@roapcoaching917 Sorry for nitpicking. Clickbaitey titles turn me into a hateful man. Really. Dont we all need some cardio haha. I must say you keep pretty good quality for such a fresh channel. Good luck.
Overall, great video, but it feels a bit verbose at the moment. There aren't logical points for me, as the viewer, to pause and reflect on the content being presented. Might I suggest breaking the video into chapters that include the content you aim to each followed by a single slide that consists of 3-4 bullet points which convey the key takeaways? There is currently a lot to digest and apply from this 11 minute video. I realize y'all are still in the early stages of this channel, so just some food for thought in terms of future editing. Also, I recommend making use of socials such as reddit's /r/climbharder sub to signal boost your videos, and also solicit for future video ideas. Good luck.
@@roapcoaching917 also, I would urge both Alex and Robin to think about how you plan to differentiate the content on this channel vs the dozens of other climbing channels out there (lattice, hoopers beta, Hannah Morris, etc).
Yes - this is absolutely in the pipeline. We obviously want to focus on some basics as there is a demand here and many of the topics that have been covered by other brands have failed to do so with enough accuracy and detail - so some of this won't be new in terms of "topics" but hopefully in terms of content. That said, we have many videos lined up which no-one has covered yet, which is exciting and we will very shortly lean to you, the viewer to share with us what content you want to see as well - feel free to share this with us if you want to.
As an alternative, as a trad climber it can be equally important to try and keep your calves fresh, so constantly keeping your heels high isn't ideal. Learning to move with less heel engagement is really important
Absolutely. I think we touched on crack climbing and multi-pitch climbers not specifically focusing on this as much, that said for cruxes or shorter, more intense trad it still applies.
Hi Jerry, yes, the first 4 videos were filmed with Rode, but we switched to DJI mics following which have been far better. The feedback is appreciated though.
So helpful. Awesome explanation of a seemingly simple concept but genuinely never talked about in this way. That step analogy was SO useful. Thank you!!
Thank you Elmir! Yeah, it's hard to actually try to disengage your core as we are so in tune with keeping it active in our daily lives. But this is the kinetic knock-on effect of dropping your heels on positive holds. I hope it helps with your training/climbing.
Love how the step off illustrates the footwork mechanic and the importance of adding in exercises like glute thrust and RDL to a routine. Also wanted to add I’ve been doing my RDLs with a ‘landmine’ set-up which allows you to press up on the balls of your feet to complete the rep. Really enjoyed this video!
This is super helpful for beginner like me who doesn't have a coach or climbing peers to learn from, and usually don't know what to do when get on the wall 😭 Can't wait to get back to the gym and do the practice that I learnt from this video!
Glad it was helpful and let us know how you get on. You'd be Surprised how many climbers who climb 5.13 and V10 (and above) who don't know how to activate their heels well. It's something that, if you fix now, will be huge in your climbing! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Please keep doing man. I promise i will keep watching your videos. very clearly describe and shows . I am a beginner climber , and you give the knowlage that i will be use tommorow. Thanx
Thanks for the tips I've only recently started getting the hang of sloppers so this will help. Also if you read this if you can give tips on how to do foot holds when climbing with your back facing the ground that would be appreciated. I am slowly figuring it out myself but it takes a lot of trial and error.
Awesome video! So when placing a foot on a small positive hold, do you typically want to place it with the heel already up, or would you place it with the heel around parallel, pushing into the toe and lifting the heel once you’re ready to stand up to the next hold?
Great question. Place with heel low to roll onto the toe and then apply pressure accordingly. The biggest recommendation is to play around with it. You don’t want to just focus on lifting the heel, but applying the suitable pressure. If you’re really drilling down you’ll need a higher heel, but a positive hold needing less pressure will warrant a slightly lower heel.
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These are the best climbing technique videos I have ever seen. Huge thank you for making them!
Thank you so much
More coming your way soon!!
This is the best footwork video I've seen to date - great teaching! Thank you!
Wow, thank you for the kind words. Stay tuned for more.
This is excellent and very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words, for watching and your support! We appreciate it
Been climbing for a handful of years~v7 indoor climber and I’m still learning a ton in your videos!
Awesome work educating everyone of all levels. You’re explaining why I do things that I didn’t quite understand the reason I was doing it. Nice videos!
Great to hear and thank you for the kind words. Looking forward to helping you further your climbing and increasing that grade!
this video is excellent, much better and helpful than many other training videos
Thanks, glad you found it better! 😃
Love the more analytical approach to these videos compared to the many other footwork videos on here. Applying these tips however becomes much more complex on steeper terrain because driving the knee forward and hips up changes your body position on hand holds especially if they aren’t incut.
Another video addressing how to not just push yourself up and out with your feet but instead create tension between hands and feet would be great
Absolutely! It’s n the agenda very soon. A few more footwork vids to get through and then we get to play with body movement which is when it gets really fun.
enlightening, good explanations and examples, thanks!
Excellent news, we appreciate your feedback! Thanks for your support
Really enjoyed it and a good reminder of one of my biggest faults. Looking forward to the next vid.
Thanks Chris!! Looking forward to showing you the next few too.
I really appreciate how you break down the mechanisms behind good footwork here. Super interesting. Have you considered doing a video on the mechanisms of toe and heel hooking?
Thanks Stephen - yep, both filmed and on the way. Foot matching is next, then heel hooking, then toe hooking after that one :)
Very nice explanation, much better than the videos that just say "drop your heals you'll stick better". I love that you talked about the position of the ankle changing where your centre of mass is, so many people miss that!
One slight change I'd make to the explanation (coming from a physics background) is that the surface area has nothing to do with friction, to get the maximum friction the force you apply to the hold needs to be at 90 degrees to the surface. So for the small positive holds which have a horizontal lip, your foot is above them as you described so that the force is at 90 degrees to the hold, for the slopers you drop your heal, which brings the hips out and the force is again applied at 90 degrees to the surface. The actual surface area in contact doesn't matter, just the direction of force. (this is still the best video I've seen out there and is incredibly useful) =)
Hey Holly, you’re absolutely right. It is all about the force going through it the area. When explaining this principle to less experienced climbers, we’ve found teaching them about maximizing surface area initially is easier for comprehension and then discuss forces and the application of pressure subsequently, but you are absolutely right.
@@roapcoaching917 That makes perfect sense! Good to hear the reasoning behind it, there's so much going on when you're learning that I presume (for most people) a physics lecture isn't what they're looking for
True, but we do love that element - perhaps we can do a video in the future talking physics!!
I was curious about this statement as it contradicts all the common climbing knowledge basicaly lol. But doing some research seems like surface area does in fact matter for rubber. Lots of infos I found talked about tires and race cars but the conclusion is that the high school/college formula and experiment with flat volumes sliding on top of each other with a mass attached does not apply to the situation of car tire or climbing shoes.
@@tpa3437 I agree that high school physics is no where near enough for this, the physics of racing tires is particularly interesting! So many variables! I gues the main problem with rubber is that it's so bendy, so you get more than 1 type of friction. Its a wonderful subject 😃
Can’t wait for some climbing drill videos. Learned a lot here
Yes! We can’t wait either. Coming very soon
Great video! Please keep on with footwork!
Thanks @Ezequiel, we will for a few more vids for sure!
Awesome, I've been looking for a video about applications of pressure when I'm climbing. You did a fantastic job of explaining the concept! Keep up the great work man. Looking forward to other videos.
Excellent, glad you liked it and thank you for your kind words. Yep, excited to release more :)
Great video, glad your channel was recommended
Ahhh, great news. Thank you. Many more vids to come
So informative and explained in a great way. Will be trying the footwork this week. Thank you.
Thank you Aamir, hope you will find it helpful.
Keep Up The Good Work
Thanks, will do!
Low heels are for long slabs, high heels are for steep terrain
Depending on the actual foothold, but in a nutshell
very nice breakdown. thanks!
Thank you!
Nice video product❤️💙❤️💙❤️
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, never saw the explanation for different footholds 🎉
Awesome, glad it was helpful, thanks for watching and the comment!
Super clear and to the point great video
Thank you, much appreciated. Many more videos coming your way!
waiting on next one📍
Thanks, next one is on the foot match :)
Wow this might be a game changer for me. Explains a lot of my issues
We hope do Chuck!! Let us know
Best ever🔥
Thank you!
Excellent and very helpful technique explanations!
Thank you!
Great No Nonsense Video!!.........Subbed
Thank you Frankie!!
Great video keep it up. This may just help me get my first V7 where my feet have been slipping on a poor foothold
Well, we certainly hope so! Report back if it does and let us know what other areas you want us to focus on!
Great video!
Thank you Damien. Stay tuned for more!
Drink every time he say "on the flip side"
Haha - I think you'll have fun on the next video too. One team drinks on OK and the other on SO!
Excellent info and teaching! Thank you 🙏 liked and subscribed ✅
Brilliant, glad you like it. Thanks for the like, comment and subscription
nice!💝
Thanks!!
Ojooo supernicee
Appreciate it, thanks for watching!
With really small edges, the smedging technique, which contradicts everything you said, even if the holds are positive, you want to drop your heel to have the positive edge of the hold catch on the sole of the shoe, not the edge. This footwork technique brought me from 5.11+ to 5.13.
A smeary edge? If there is an edge, even if it is 5mm, you'll need stiff shoes and a positive angle. If it is a smear, you drop your heel.
This has always made sense as when youre using a smeared foot it really only works when your hips are really far from the wall, but how do you engage a dropped heel when the hand is very slopey or going for a dynamic move where getting you body closer to the wall will make you feet slip?
Great question. The smear is a great example and as a supporting or driving leg it can create a lot of energy which has to be harnessed by technique throughout the rest of the body - be it the other ankle/foot, knees, hips etc.
with slopers you will obviously have to be below it for maximum efficiency and bringing your hips out will worsen optimal directional force. At times like this, our ankle flexion is incredibly important in helping us keep hips closer to the wall.
Does curling toes with raised heels ( non-slopey foot holds) and spreading toes with dropped heels (slopey foot holds) add more pressure on feet when climbing?
Good question. If you can do this, your shoes are probably too big
Does it also help to twist the heel into the wall? This brings the leg closer...
Absolutely, depending on the move. Ankle articulation really helps bring the hips closer to the wall. Obviously if you’re in a position that requires you to be front on, then it’s less effective. But with drop knees, absolutely!!
The driving up of the heel for the more positive footholds feels very much like something I've been missing. Trying it now and feel like I've had a bit of an epiphanette. Any drills that you'd recommend to make this more intuitive? I've been trying ti add this awareness to my warm ups, but its easy to loose sight of. Thanks!
Yes, practicing this in your warm-up routine on easier ground is crucial. Essentially, on larger holds and vertical walls, where you can really focus on perfect movement. Start low, place the heel, then try to keep the hanf=d low to help you pivot over the pivot point (heel). Obviously drilling one legged squats (TRX assistance) helps too.
You are literally god 😍
Haha, I'll tell him!
Hey! How does this work for little knuckle holds (you know, the little nubs that maybe don't have the +'ve lip, still extruded, but not exactly a -'ve sloper hold)
Like a chicken head?
not sure i love the mic you're using here. sounds a bit blown out.
He's 3 videos in, give the guy a break.
Thanks, changed to DJI mics! We thought the same
Haha, we like constructive feedback though
Friction is independent of surface area. The amount of rubber you’re using on your shoe is irrelevant.
True, it is the application of pressure through the contact area, but this is a video to help people understand easily.
That is only true as long as the materials are not being abraded.
Man that mic makes you sound like you need to do some cardio :D
Haha - probably does need to ;) We've changed to DJI mics now
@@roapcoaching917 Sorry for nitpicking. Clickbaitey titles turn me into a hateful man. Really. Dont we all need some cardio haha. I must say you keep pretty good quality for such a fresh channel. Good luck.
Overall, great video, but it feels a bit verbose at the moment. There aren't logical points for me, as the viewer, to pause and reflect on the content being presented. Might I suggest breaking the video into chapters that include the content you aim to each followed by a single slide that consists of 3-4 bullet points which convey the key takeaways?
There is currently a lot to digest and apply from this 11 minute video. I realize y'all are still in the early stages of this channel, so just some food for thought in terms of future editing.
Also, I recommend making use of socials such as reddit's /r/climbharder sub to signal boost your videos, and also solicit for future video ideas. Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback, we can make them more bitesized for sure!
@@roapcoaching917 also, I would urge both Alex and Robin to think about how you plan to differentiate the content on this channel vs the dozens of other climbing channels out there (lattice, hoopers beta, Hannah Morris, etc).
Yes - this is absolutely in the pipeline. We obviously want to focus on some basics as there is a demand here and many of the topics that have been covered by other brands have failed to do so with enough accuracy and detail - so some of this won't be new in terms of "topics" but hopefully in terms of content. That said, we have many videos lined up which no-one has covered yet, which is exciting and we will very shortly lean to you, the viewer to share with us what content you want to see as well - feel free to share this with us if you want to.
As an alternative, as a trad climber it can be equally important to try and keep your calves fresh, so constantly keeping your heels high isn't ideal. Learning to move with less heel engagement is really important
Of course, calf pump isn't a consideration for bouldering and sport climbing
Absolutely. I think we touched on crack climbing and multi-pitch climbers not specifically focusing on this as much, that said for cruxes or shorter, more intense trad it still applies.
Oh yeah baby!!! Another must watch episode.❤
YAAAAS! Thank you Changyue!!
Fantastic instructional video! I am learning so much from your videos. Thank you!!
Thank you so much, glad you’re finding it helpful! We appreciate your support
My man you need a new mic. But otherwise a great video!
Hi Jerry, yes, the first 4 videos were filmed with Rode, but we switched to DJI mics following which have been far better. The feedback is appreciated though.
0:11 the automatically generated subtitles went mad there
Oh really? Funny, annoying?
Just saw it!!! NOT a good auto subtitle!!! Sorry
Adjusted - thank you for highlighting this!
So helpful. Awesome explanation of a seemingly simple concept but genuinely never talked about in this way. That step analogy was SO useful. Thank you!!
Thank you Elmir! Yeah, it's hard to actually try to disengage your core as we are so in tune with keeping it active in our daily lives. But this is the kinetic knock-on effect of dropping your heels on positive holds. I hope it helps with your training/climbing.
Love how the step off illustrates the footwork mechanic and the importance of adding in exercises like glute thrust and RDL to a routine. Also wanted to add I’ve been doing my RDLs with a ‘landmine’ set-up which allows you to press up on the balls of your feet to complete the rep. Really enjoyed this video!
Great exercise!!!
Great set-up and exercise!!!
This is super helpful for beginner like me who doesn't have a coach or climbing peers to learn from, and usually don't know what to do when get on the wall 😭 Can't wait to get back to the gym and do the practice that I learnt from this video!
Glad it was helpful and let us know how you get on. You'd be Surprised how many climbers who climb 5.13 and V10 (and above) who don't know how to activate their heels well. It's something that, if you fix now, will be huge in your climbing!
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Please keep doing man. I promise i will keep watching your videos. very clearly describe and shows . I am a beginner climber , and you give the knowlage that i will be use tommorow. Thanx
Thank you, and we will. Hopefully try to stick to at least 1 video each week. Stay tuned for more Alex too :)
Thanks for the tips I've only recently started getting the hang of sloppers so this will help. Also if you read this if you can give tips on how to do foot holds when climbing with your back facing the ground that would be appreciated. I am slowly figuring it out myself but it takes a lot of trial and error.
I.e. roof climbing? An episode is coming on this :)
Awesome video! So when placing a foot on a small positive hold, do you typically want to place it with the heel already up, or would you place it with the heel around parallel, pushing into the toe and lifting the heel once you’re ready to stand up to the next hold?
Great question. Place with heel low to roll onto the toe and then apply pressure accordingly. The biggest recommendation is to play around with it. You don’t want to just focus on lifting the heel, but applying the suitable pressure. If you’re really drilling down you’ll need a higher heel, but a positive hold needing less pressure will warrant a slightly lower heel.
perfection 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks
Another excellent video. Really enjoying the series
Thank you so much! We are excited to grow, learn and produce more content. :)