I really need to brush more. A power spotter would also be nice. I have sent zero X+2s ever, where X is my guaranteed flash grade. Despite spending 6 weeks on each project, falling many dozens of times and ultimately failing every one, the thing that keeps me going is knowing that progress is measured in years, not months. The gaps between grades are huge. Thanks for the video.
For sure! Brushing is key but power-spotting is equally important. If you’re genuinely trying hard climbs (for you), learning the positions and taking weight off is the way! Thanks for watching
If you’re flashing Vx most of the time Vx+2 should be done in one session and Vx+4 would be a multi week project so definitely have a lot of low hanging progress to make
14:14 you almost said my favorite point: You can’t have good days without bad days, unless you’re climbing well below your limit - so embrace the days where things don’t click, means you’re closer to having a peak session.
I had years and years of just pottering around the easy stuff at the gym. Unsurprisingly, I got bored, then a friend ordered me to project. Much more fun now that I am challenging myself and, despite my fears, my sketchy shoulder has been completely fine.
Sometimes too long (sorry for that)! Aiming to do 1 a week. Just super busy with coaching atm, but lining things up to make it happen! Thanks for your support
Power spotting and practice falling as you go up are great tips. Better to be a V10 faller / V6 climber than a V10 climber but only a V6 faller, if that makes sense long term.
I've been trying to get a friend to practice progressive falling with me on a run out section of a sport climb we've projected this year. It isn't even a hard section, but it looks like you could deck if you fall from the bolt. You probably wouldn't. It's the mental crux of the route, so knowing you aren't going to die would make a huge difference 😅
Great advice, Robin and Alex. I sport climb and, when on top rope, I have begun to ask my belay partner to lower me to crux sections so that I can try and work through the moves. 👍
Exactly that!! Dissecting the moves 1 by 1 will allow you to perfect the movement and climb a lot(!) harder. Robin’s dad climbed 8a+/13c at 65 by learning the moves of projects. Allows you to push yourself to the limit!
6 месяцев назад+2
thank you very much for your content. I love the fact that each step, each reflection is detailed. for a beginner like me this is what allows me real compression and real theoretical learning initially which I can then implement during my sessions. 👏👏👏👍
Ego and brushing were the biggest ones for me. Brushing can turn a slopper from horrible to great or a scary volume to a secure one. Ego is something I still struggle with, when i change gyms or go outdoors I always have a high expectation to send but the pressure doesnt help
Absolutely. Brushing is just something many climbers don't do. Obviously on rock it is more common, but indoors, people just don't bother unless it's their project. This culture, unfortunately, passes on to the training boards. Ego is also obviously the biggest stopper in progression! Thanks for sharing and for watching!
In the first 3 months of this year I had to slow because of a injury and after starting to slowly go up to my grade that i did before, I had a big improvement and jumped into the next grade So I'll do a endurence month from time to time
Endurance months/phases are really important. A lot of our plans for new clients start in this way as many people don't have capacity. Capacity and strength can also be trained simultaneous (different sessions) as they are polar opposites. Short and quality sessions (high intensity) and then a high volume/low intensity session - with appropriate rests involved of course. Thanks for sharing and good luck with your progress!
Great, video! Just wanted to ask how often would you say to project? I love the idea but then the gym sets a new area so off I go! 😅 I normally climb 3 times a week. Any suggestions gratefully received 👍
Good question and it really depends on skill level (experience) as well as goals. If you are pre-season - then volume is better, but if you are in a project/strength phase then 2-3 times a week (3 being ideal as long as you are having one session a week that is focused on movement and volume).
Good question...many more are coming, but ultimately feet, attempts, HR, time. We are currently watching blood o2 in relation to HR to see if we can understand more about lactate thresholds - so the HR is more relevant like it would be in running or using larger muscle groups.
Thank you, Alex! You guys produce fantastic videos. Straight o the point! I DO climb better partially because of your channel. And I do recommend it to all my buddies. Gruß aus Österreich :)
I really need to brush more. A power spotter would also be nice. I have sent zero X+2s ever, where X is my guaranteed flash grade. Despite spending 6 weeks on each project, falling many dozens of times and ultimately failing every one, the thing that keeps me going is knowing that progress is measured in years, not months. The gaps between grades are huge. Thanks for the video.
For sure! Brushing is key but power-spotting is equally important. If you’re genuinely trying hard climbs (for you), learning the positions and taking weight off is the way! Thanks for watching
If you’re flashing Vx most of the time Vx+2 should be done in one session and Vx+4 would be a multi week project so definitely have a lot of low hanging progress to make
14:14 you almost said my favorite point: You can’t have good days without bad days, unless you’re climbing well below your limit - so embrace the days where things don’t click, means you’re closer to having a peak session.
Very true!!!
I had years and years of just pottering around the easy stuff at the gym. Unsurprisingly, I got bored, then a friend ordered me to project. Much more fun now that I am challenging myself and, despite my fears, my sketchy shoulder has been completely fine.
Glad you got shown the way…fun to “potter” and nice when you go to new gyms, but not the way to see bigger gains!
Thank you for your content. Always waiting for a new video.
Sometimes too long (sorry for that)! Aiming to do 1 a week. Just super busy with coaching atm, but lining things up to make it happen! Thanks for your support
These are solid tips! Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much, we appreciate it 😊
Power spotting and practice falling as you go up are great tips. Better to be a V10 faller / V6 climber than a V10 climber but only a V6 faller, if that makes sense long term.
Absolutely!! Haha, I think I am a v6 faller! There are some ninja cars out there!!!
I've been trying to get a friend to practice progressive falling with me on a run out section of a sport climb we've projected this year. It isn't even a hard section, but it looks like you could deck if you fall from the bolt. You probably wouldn't. It's the mental crux of the route, so knowing you aren't going to die would make a huge difference 😅
Super cool video, thank you! Please, do more of these. :)
Thank you so much! Yes, more coming your way. Filmed today, filming tomo for Sunday release hopefully!
So many great nuggets in this one!
Thank you so much!!
Great advice, Robin and Alex. I sport climb and, when on top rope, I have begun to ask my belay partner to lower me to crux sections so that I can try and work through the moves. 👍
Exactly that!! Dissecting the moves 1 by 1 will allow you to perfect the movement and climb a lot(!) harder. Robin’s dad climbed 8a+/13c at 65 by learning the moves of projects. Allows you to push yourself to the limit!
thank you very much for your content. I love the fact that each step, each reflection is detailed. for a beginner like me this is what allows me real compression and real theoretical learning initially which I can then implement during my sessions. 👏👏👏👍
Excellent, glad you liked it! We tried to condense it a little to make it a bit more bite sized too!
Thanks for watching
im in my first year of climbing and you guys have been an immense help in my journey~ ty for your vids (:
Thank you for the kind words! Glad we can help! Many more tech vids coming
Another banger ep!!! Looking forward for more 💪
Mega! Thank you so much! Thanks for watching!
Ego and brushing were the biggest ones for me. Brushing can turn a slopper from horrible to great or a scary volume to a secure one. Ego is something I still struggle with, when i change gyms or go outdoors I always have a high expectation to send but the pressure doesnt help
Absolutely. Brushing is just something many climbers don't do. Obviously on rock it is more common, but indoors, people just don't bother unless it's their project. This culture, unfortunately, passes on to the training boards. Ego is also obviously the biggest stopper in progression! Thanks for sharing and for watching!
Thank you for your excellent recommendations to improve my technique more and more every day!
Thank you so much and you are more than welcome! More coming your way too
Good tips! Thanks!
Another (obvious) one: projecting is much more fun if you're not alone.
Too true!!! Especially if your “friends” are on the same climb and similar ability!
In the first 3 months of this year I had to slow because of a injury and after starting to slowly go up to my grade that i did before, I had a big improvement and jumped into the next grade
So I'll do a endurence month from time to time
Endurance months/phases are really important. A lot of our plans for new clients start in this way as many people don't have capacity. Capacity and strength can also be trained simultaneous (different sessions) as they are polar opposites. Short and quality sessions (high intensity) and then a high volume/low intensity session - with appropriate rests involved of course. Thanks for sharing and good luck with your progress!
Robins T shirt is awesome!
Haha, it’s hilarious! I think only a few remain now
Power spotters are everything.
This. Is. True! ❤️
Great, video! Just wanted to ask how often would you say to project? I love the idea but then the gym sets a new area so off I go! 😅 I normally climb 3 times a week. Any suggestions gratefully received 👍
Good question and it really depends on skill level (experience) as well as goals. If you are pre-season - then volume is better, but if you are in a project/strength phase then 2-3 times a week (3 being ideal as long as you are having one session a week that is focused on movement and volume).
@roapcoaching917 that's great thank you for replying 👍
What metrics do you track and analyse specifically with the coros watch?
Good question...many more are coming, but ultimately feet, attempts, HR, time. We are currently watching blood o2 in relation to HR to see if we can understand more about lactate thresholds - so the HR is more relevant like it would be in running or using larger muscle groups.
2:33 peso pluma on the background music? hahaha Greetings from Mexico!
You got it!!! 🎶 👂 👍
Thank you, Alex! You guys produce fantastic videos. Straight o the point! I DO climb better partially because of your channel. And I do recommend it to all my buddies. Gruß aus Österreich :)
Thank you so much! We need and appreciate viewers like you! 😊
More coming your way! Keep trying hard and having fun!
Love the shirt. Alex's picture its from is so badass.
Haha! Yes!!! 🙏
Nice one guys
Thanks Huffy!!! We want to do the series with you still!!
👍
Thank you!
Grrrrrr 🤘
🤗🤗💥
So was that toe hook just a red herring or what?
Good Q!? I think they set it for the “average height” climber (5”6-5”9) and it didn’t work for neither Robin (too scrunched) nor me (as you saw).
Real question is how i get my gym to play Peso Pluma
Haha, we've heard the from a few!
Insta like just for the thumbnail
Haha! Thank you!!
I’ve just gotta have that white Tee that Robin is wearing!!
If you’re in the first 200, you’ve got one!!!
When do we find out? The suspense is killing me!
I can understand why she won’t wear a shirt depicting herself. That does sound pretty cringey, lol.
Hahaha! It’s understandable right?! 😆