Can you get better in one day? Coaching from Mat Wright

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  • Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 331

  • @Mat_Wright
    @Mat_Wright 2 месяца назад +826

    You did so well Mike! Really looking forward to climbing with you again soon 😁👌

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +68

      thanks Mat. These techniques have really changed my climbing. Feels like I've unlocked the next level! I can't thank you enough 💪

    • @TobiasSample
      @TobiasSample 2 месяца назад +1

      Hope to see more from you Mat as well! Gonna check out your vids next lol

    • @DaneRossenrode
      @DaneRossenrode 2 месяца назад +1

      Fantastic coaching in this video; I might soon get in contact to ask for some coaching myself (v7 and up) 😄

  • @snababo3914
    @snababo3914 2 месяца назад +198

    I will say that there is nothing quite like having someone talk you through the little things in bouldering. I had someone that was just an enthusiastic climber egging me on and giving me little hints in my last session, never have I pushed so hard or done so well, didn't crush anything above my current level, but I know that I definitely can next time.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +17

      It makes a huge difference. Especially on limit problems. The tiniest bit of beta changes everything!

    • @D0h1000
      @D0h1000 Месяц назад

      Yup, I can attest to that tiny bit of beta!
      Last week i was struggling tons on a v4 project and a friend pointed out that I should shift my weight left over my knee... and I pretty promptly got my first v4! That simple sentence somehow brought me a massive accomplishment.

  • @MikeBoydClimbs
    @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +420

    should we do more coaching together? Let me know below what we should work on 👇

    • @heraclitus4884
      @heraclitus4884 2 месяца назад +17

      Yes please! Mat is cool, maybe do outdoor stuff together or try boardclimbing with him!

    • @marijngrashoff30
      @marijngrashoff30 2 месяца назад +4

      I'd love to see you work a hard slab together or something technical and dynamic like a peddal Dyno or running into a heel or toe hook... Maybe even set it yourself? Would be cool to set something you can't climb and than project it.

    • @Kiwua91
      @Kiwua91 2 месяца назад +3

      Outdoor Bouldering !!

    • @IMTURTLE92
      @IMTURTLE92 2 месяца назад +3

      Kilter board climbing with Mat would be a great video. I’m at a similar level to you and find board climbing very difficult would be awesome to see Matt coaching you on climbing on the board!

    • @geoffersmaher
      @geoffersmaher 2 месяца назад +3

      +1 for this, im a firm believer that people put too much on progression rather than enjoyment in bouldering especially around this sort of level ( i max out at a 6c as well) especially on youtube and i think this leads to people being a bit hard on themselves, but thats a whole other thing. but back to the original point it was great to see mat get you out of your comfort zone, get you thinking and making changes.
      great video mike! loving this climbing channel, thank you.

  • @elliott9628
    @elliott9628 2 месяца назад +96

    Something so unique about your channel - its a small thing but its feel very unique and no one else is doing it - is the last 3 minutes of the video. Most channels just show the coaching session and end, but taking it that extra step and showing your session taking those things onboard is really great in my opinion

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +21

      Such a nice comment. That means a lot. Thanks for watching.

    • @madmonk4214
      @madmonk4214 2 месяца назад

      agreeeed

  • @ianwashington4114
    @ianwashington4114 2 месяца назад +204

    I’m at around V7-8 and my girlfriend is climbing at around a v3. I’d absolutely love to see more content like this because it can sometimes be pretty difficult for me to try and coach her on some of these things. Thank you! God bless, my friend.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +21

      More to come! Thanks for watching

    • @Aaron-xq6hv
      @Aaron-xq6hv 2 месяца назад +1

      Yea, as a V15 climber that's how I feel too.

    • @flynryan3053
      @flynryan3053 2 месяца назад +15

      @@Aaron-xq6hv As a V30 climber i feel it too.

    • @ezra8001
      @ezra8001 2 месяца назад

      @@flynryan3053 v30 doesnt exist buddy

  • @Jovi_97
    @Jovi_97 2 месяца назад +49

    You should absolutely do more coaching with this guy. I feel like I learned a TONNE from this.

  • @imyabota5785
    @imyabota5785 2 месяца назад +69

    Mike unlocked a new ability: Projecting!
    But besides that I want to highlight the mental aspect shown in this video. Mike went from 11:52 full of disbelief to be able to send it to 20:18 . I think Magnus said it too but the thing that holds back most climbers is their mindset. It was very obvious that Mike won't become stronger after 1 coaching session, but that isn't the goal of single session videos like these. The goal and something the coach has to achieve is bringing out the best of the client. Mat did a wonderful job in that.
    And a few site notes:
    -Doing the "projecting dance" is very valid and won't be judged on except by newbies who don't know much yet.
    -Doing no warm up still sounds so crazy to me. I'm just 21 years old and already got multiple pulley injuries and even a capsule rupture. I can't imagine climbing to my absolute max and beyond without warming up very intensively. (1 hour usually).
    -Having a coach is good, but not necessary. Climbing with stronger people has a similiar effect as you will soak up all of their technique and skills like a sponge. I always try to go to the gym crushers and try to learn from them which helps me improve significantly.

    • @loquito57
      @loquito57 2 месяца назад +7

      Before that he unlocked: Footwork :)

    • @noahmay7708
      @noahmay7708 2 месяца назад +3

      1 hour warmup is very long. Respect.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +6

      Very insightful comment. Thanks for watching!

    • @5tr4nge75
      @5tr4nge75 2 месяца назад +3

      As a very keen climber, I can say with 90% certainty that Magnus is right.
      Most climbers just don’t want to unlock that try hard mindset, whether it’s fear, or lack of experience, or just not feeling great.
      I know that I’m guilty of it, I’ll frequently get to a hard or scary move and just give up. But I’m working on learning how to actually try hard

  • @Allen_lena
    @Allen_lena 2 месяца назад +51

    Those climbs are nowhere near your current limit!! You really have the fingers and strength for it, it's time to project a lot more!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +14

      definitely! I hope with the new approach I can start on limit boulders!

  • @jackandrew-q9e
    @jackandrew-q9e 2 месяца назад +32

    Always liked Mat, I had some coaching with him in my early days of climbing. Remember a coaching session where I went from struggling on my gyms v3-5 set to doing about 5 of them in an hour. Knows his stuff.

  • @Toalen
    @Toalen 2 месяца назад +17

    I'm currently on the edge of 6c(v5v6), looking for higher for a while now. I know I have enough strength for many of these higher boulders, but I've never done any drills, visualization, meditation, segmenting yet. This video is released at the right timing for me. I will try to apply all of these advice, take bouldering a little bit more seriously. Thank you

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +4

      Good luck! I'm sure you'll see an improvement with these tips

  • @FinEckermann
    @FinEckermann 2 месяца назад +18

    Yes Mike, I’ve been waiting patiently for another one of these vids!!!

  • @unvexis
    @unvexis 2 месяца назад +19

    As soon as you said you were getting stronger and fitter but not climbing harder, I was certain a single coaching session would have a significant effect. That situation is usually mental, and a good coach can identify what’s going wrong upstairs.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +10

      Totally. I'm glad that 1 session had such an effect. Definitely doing more!

  • @Daan_Music_
    @Daan_Music_ 2 месяца назад +10

    Was just watching your routesetting video and went back to my home page to see you posted another climbing video! So stoked! Perfect timing haha

  • @UnknownChimera
    @UnknownChimera 2 месяца назад +2

    What a great video! Need more content like that :) I am around V4, and I went to the gym yesterday and applied most of the techniques shown in the video: longer warm-up, ultra-light weight, stretches, and fingerboarding. Then I climbed V1 and V2 routes, using the 3-seconds rule before grabbing handholds, and being super cautious with my techniques, especially my hips. I immediately felt more confidence in my climbing, and my core strength was somehow much better than usual.
    I then proceeded to some slabs and vertical routes at my current level; it went fine. I even tried to apply the 3-seconds rule when I could. I've always struggled with overhang climbs, so it felt natural to keep a V5 overhang route as a small project. I started climbing from the middle of the route, felt super strong, and managed to climb all the way up. Gave myself a good 5 minutes of rest and focused on my breathing. Started the climb from the beginning, and... I sent it! It felt easy too! Thanks for this great video and looking forward to the next one with Mat.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Absolutely brilliant that this works for you. I'm psyched that you tried it out!

  • @123024119
    @123024119 2 месяца назад +1

    Mike..this video is me all over, thank you for this I've been stuck at v3-v4 so really looking forward to trying this out! Thank you for sharing keep the good vids coming and yes more coaching sessions would be great to see 👍

  • @shadowcraftersr
    @shadowcraftersr Месяц назад

    That's awesome. I remember seeing your first video about climbing on your other channel. Amazing how far you've come!

  • @j-d1389
    @j-d1389 2 месяца назад +1

    Very good video, thanks for sharing the tips @Mat_Wright! Hearing tips and seeing them being done makes it very nice to learn from. Thanks both of you!

  • @brennen_b635
    @brennen_b635 2 месяца назад +2

    I’m at the v9 level and this video was very helpful. It’s good to go back to the basics and focus on technique. You can forget sometimes. So it’s helpful to revisit it. Thanks for the great video.

  • @jrisner6535
    @jrisner6535 2 месяца назад +2

    So easy to forget how much of bouldering is technique!
    Living in Sheffield - you see some people who just flow up the walls 😍

  • @tobytee7883
    @tobytee7883 2 месяца назад +2

    I’m now thinking my 2 minute warm up isn’t really enough. I’ll definitely be trying the top down approach and visualisation next bouldering session too. Thanks Mike and Matt for the useful tips.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Cheers Tobs! 💪 Can't wait to see you crush it!

  • @sumpin_or_other
    @sumpin_or_other 2 месяца назад

    Great stuff. Love other stuff Mat has been in and felt his contributions here were pretty straightforward yet very important. Looking forward to trying to incorporate this in both my bouldering and wall climbing. Would love to see him back on the channel!

  • @upzang
    @upzang 2 месяца назад

    Very helpful video. Yes, please make more of these. The possibilities are endless and they really help the typical gym climber. 🙏

  • @D4NKN4
    @D4NKN4 2 месяца назад

    Hello! Amazing progress Mike, Glad to see you build Tension. He didn't mention it or showed it to you directly, but Mat often used a Drop Knee (You can see at 16:46), notice how he pushes down on the right foot, rotates the knee inside then down, forcing his right hip to almost touch the wall, while maintaining push force on his left foot. This right here, will save you from cutting loose many times!
    This hip thing also applies for heel hooks! if the heel is semi good, instead of placing the "back" of your heel on the hold and pulling, what you could do is place the outer side of the heel! Once you place it, point your knee outwards, and pull in with your hamstring and glutes. (You can see Mat do it @12:11, he places his Left Heel on the outer side and @12:04 where places the heel hook on a very positive hold, points his left knee out, pulls in with his glutes) Notice how @22:35, you're pulling as hard as you can but due to your calf muscle you can't bring your hips closer. You can try and mess around with this on many climbs lower grade climbs. However, be careful of your knee as it does require mobility.
    Best of luck!

  • @bentucker5009
    @bentucker5009 2 месяца назад

    Thanks Mike. Great video, and excellent sends. Hopefully we will see more videos with Matt Wright.

  • @boulderup9c
    @boulderup9c 2 месяца назад +1

    Wow, game changing video! Can't wait to use these techniques. I am exactly where you were, Mike.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      That's brilliant that you got something with the video! Hopefully your grades shoot up!

  • @galaxie12
    @galaxie12 2 месяца назад

    great job, with the climbing and the video.. the whole package really came together 😎

  • @eskillokke
    @eskillokke 2 месяца назад

    Love these videos and seeing good tips for us lowly V4 climbers

  • @atomic7680
    @atomic7680 2 месяца назад

    Thanks for the wonderful coaching insights 😊

  • @IMTURTLE92
    @IMTURTLE92 2 месяца назад +2

    Awesome video Mike. I’m stuck at 6c/V5 at the moment. I’m looking forward to using the technique Matt has shown you for projecting the rest of the 6c climbs at my gym and some of the 7a’s!
    Mat is clearly a fantastic coach. This video is a great advert for his services!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      I look forward to hearing from you when you break through the plateau!

  • @LadyLaddy
    @LadyLaddy 2 месяца назад

    That was awesome! Of course, I would like to see more coaching videos. They are always interesting, and Mat is very good at explaining.
    Hihi, I think you are right: When I started climbing with my friends, I was the "weakest", so from the beginning on, I watched videos, tried out some drills and worked very hard on route reading and warmup drills. So the gap wasn't that big anymore, and now, on slightly harder climbs, being patient is helping a lot (I just need more confidence)^^.

  • @emanuelmalm9076
    @emanuelmalm9076 2 месяца назад +1

    Ive been stuck around 6b+/6c for like a year now so i went out and tried this. Immediately sent 6c+. This works.

  • @ClarkieUK
    @ClarkieUK 2 месяца назад +1

    I've had the pleasure of running into Mat at a local crag and he is honestly one of the most sound guys around. Very lucky ! :).

  • @0-Will-0
    @0-Will-0 2 месяца назад

    Already follow Mat and know he's good. Was still surprised how effective his coaching was though and it's one of the best coaching videos I've seen ever probably. Nice work both of you.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Really happy you got something from the video. Thanks for watching!

  • @marialamle6958
    @marialamle6958 Месяц назад

    Great video! The 'top down' approach is really useful - will defo bear that in mind next time I'm climbing.

  • @nguyenproas
    @nguyenproas 2 месяца назад

    This is super insipiring, keep climbing man! Please do make more vids with Matt as your coach. I learned a lot here

  • @Lincoln-fz4gv
    @Lincoln-fz4gv 2 месяца назад +1

    Well done Mike, it was amazing to see how much you improved just by slowing things down and visualising the roots, I will have to try that in my next session!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      Good luck. I'm sure it will work out for you too

  • @sneasing6050
    @sneasing6050 2 месяца назад

    huge vouch for matt , really opened my eyes to climbing better and harder

  • @kram14490
    @kram14490 2 месяца назад

    As always an excellent video Mike and excellent coaching from Mat! Keep em coming

  • @Choshinable
    @Choshinable Месяц назад

    I learned so much! Great video

  • @jean-paulkorkmaz659
    @jean-paulkorkmaz659 2 месяца назад

    Appreciate you sharing this! Psyched to see how far this can go for ya

  • @ranchjr.6432
    @ranchjr.6432 2 месяца назад

    super awesome stuff, really cool to see you sticking with the climbing journey!!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      No sign of me getting bored of it yet 💪😄

  • @robvp71
    @robvp71 2 месяца назад

    Inspiring.. still hanging around 5C and having a hard time getting better but this sounds like excellent advice! Thx 🙏🏼

  • @loganwalsh1729
    @loganwalsh1729 2 месяца назад +1

    Great video, gonna use all these tips!

  • @johnl4213
    @johnl4213 2 месяца назад +1

    Great video as always!

  • @vefunen6766
    @vefunen6766 2 месяца назад

    Ive been climbing for around 5-6 months and been stuck on progression on the past couple weeks and this video explained why. Now i realize why and what i have to do to progress more! Thank you so much and this helped so much 🙌

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      Great! I'm glad this resonated with you

  • @leorizzi3599
    @leorizzi3599 2 месяца назад

    Really cool video. Congrats on the send 🎉 I'm psyched for my session tomorrow

  • @hypnogri5457
    @hypnogri5457 2 месяца назад

    I just started climbing and I was suprised to see that you have videos on it. Amazing

  • @iamhocus
    @iamhocus 2 месяца назад

    What an amazing teacher and super chill guy Mat is

  • @jamoinmoin
    @jamoinmoin 2 месяца назад

    Love watching your climbing videos Mike, Mat is a great coach. I've never used the visualizing with your eyes shut method, will have to try it out!

  • @kato2048
    @kato2048 2 месяца назад

    I think my favourite part of your content is just how genuine you are. Other channels tend to hide their mistakes, but watching your videos always feels like I'm just seeing my friend improve at climbing along side me.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Thanks a lot for the kind words. I strive to keep it as authentic as possible

  • @AnnaNibbs
    @AnnaNibbs 2 месяца назад

    This video was AWESOME, Mike! I'd love to see you do more with Mat - he's got a real skill in being able to keep everything chill while encouraging you out of your comfort zone.
    I need to try this approach. I've been climbing for a similar length of time to you but lack your strength - I've had no choice but to focus on footwork and body positioning simply to get anywhere! Now making an effort to get stronger through supplementary conditioning (still working towards my first pull-up 🥲.). But I'm certainly stronger than the stuff I'm climbing, and I've got a mental block about committing to the finishing holds on higher blocs, so the top-down approach looks like a game-changer 🎉.
    Keep up the good work, brother 👏

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      hopefully with this approach you unlock your potential! Glad you enjoyed this video

  • @questpatch4527
    @questpatch4527 2 месяца назад

    This was lowkey enlightening. Things I heard before but just put so well and simply together

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      I'm glad you found it enlightening. Thanks for watching

  • @nsiepmann
    @nsiepmann 2 месяца назад

    I love that idea of going top-down - so by the time you're climbing the whole boulder the bit you've rehearsed the most is the hardest, not just the first! Really cool

  • @MasthaX
    @MasthaX 2 месяца назад

    Looking good Mike! From what I've seen (before) this bit of coaching is really something you needed. Keep that technique up, climb light, let the body flow! Warmup is also something I really advice to always do, as it also reduces the risk of injury. I really feel the difference in perfomance myself when I barely warm up, or even not at all and trying harder climbs.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      I feel i really benefitted from coaching. I'm definitely going to do more

  • @WWEFAN952
    @WWEFAN952 2 месяца назад

    awesome insights man! this video really gave me a unique perspective into improving my climbs, im also around V4 climbeer and cannot wait to put these tips into practice! Thanks Mat and thanks Mike!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      can't wait to hear how you get on!

  • @ianlucht3121
    @ianlucht3121 2 месяца назад

    Oh my god Mike I’ve needed a video like this that’s this well done for a while, I’m stuck at the v4 area too! Hope I can apply some of this with my session tomorrow!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      You can do it!

    • @ianlucht3121
      @ianlucht3121 Месяц назад

      @@MikeBoydClimbswell here to let you know in the last few weeks I went from v4 to v6 myself thanks for the video, helped a lot with improving strength and session length!

  • @ArturTriesThings
    @ArturTriesThings 2 месяца назад

    Wow! There is so much value in this video 😮 I feel l can climb better after watching it. Thanks Mike and Mat. Incredible🙌🧘‍♂️

  • @samgeelzzz2229
    @samgeelzzz2229 2 месяца назад

    This was a great watch, Mike explains things very well. Being someone who consistently decides a climb is too hard for me based on the first couple of moves I will definitely be approaching projecting differently using these tips!

  • @kylerclarke2689
    @kylerclarke2689 2 месяца назад

    Inspirational stuff. You've got me stoked to get back out to the gym

  • @peanutsraisins
    @peanutsraisins 2 месяца назад

    Love your videos and Matt's videos! The tips are really helpful to me, thanks!

  • @adammartinguitar5436
    @adammartinguitar5436 2 месяца назад

    Loving these videos, got into climbing properly about a month ago and Im trying to get up past V3 so these will help!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      You'll get past it soon enough! Thanks for watching!

  • @PinoBooba
    @PinoBooba 2 месяца назад

    mad respect on the climb it looked insane !

  • @eyelessjack817
    @eyelessjack817 2 месяца назад

    Was awesome to see you at the gym Mike, great job on sending the blue.

  •  2 месяца назад

    Yes, definitely more of these please!

  • @nickcarter6628
    @nickcarter6628 2 месяца назад

    That was great! Mat is such a good coach, even watching this i took away points to work on, im sure in person it was even better. 😀

  • @rockstarjazzcat
    @rockstarjazzcat 2 месяца назад

    Really enjoyed this one! Yes, more work with Mat please! 🤙🏻

  • @alakabaz3
    @alakabaz3 2 месяца назад

    Matt is a beast and from all the videos I’ve watched of him seems like such a nice guy. His partner Anna is a helluva climber too. Absolute power couple.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Anna is a crusher too! Lovely couple

  • @KieranJDuncan
    @KieranJDuncan 2 месяца назад

    Great video Mike... Mat did such a good job of explaining the projecting process. Apply this to some long routes and you'll see massive gains there too, I'm psyched for Kalymnos in a couple of months! Yer gonna smash it.

  • @Simi-fi7qj
    @Simi-fi7qj 2 месяца назад

    This was really inspiring. I'm going to try this routine tomorrow 💪

  • @chrissellers4519
    @chrissellers4519 2 месяца назад

    Great watch, enjoying your content. Bar better tactic, I think self belief is also key. That blue probably wasn't soft, it suits you - you crushed it!

  • @samuelpierini5189
    @samuelpierini5189 2 месяца назад

    Man, such great tips in here. Great video!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Really happy you got something from it!

  • @marijngrashoff30
    @marijngrashoff30 2 месяца назад

    LETZGO MIKE!! this is awesome to see I know the dreaded feeling of being stuck awesome to see you work through it and I'm sure you got it aswell but bouldering is at least 50% a mental sport you gotta get your head in the game... Awesome stuff :D

    • @marijngrashoff30
      @marijngrashoff30 2 месяца назад

      It's also great to have someone to talk you through it this is why I love climbing with friends that are at my level or higher projecting together is awesome

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      I'm glad other people feel the same way as I do. Thanks for watching!

  • @daveatutube
    @daveatutube 2 месяца назад

    Couch coach from the other side of the world here, but the sequence from about 16:40 to 17:10 is interesting. Look at how much more Mat turns in his right leg. I'm not sure how much is flexibility, how much is oddball hip strength and how much is technique, but working on standing on your toe and rotating your knee in might be a good thing in your warm ups.
    Love that you've got the climbing bug, yell if you're ever in Oz and want to play.

  • @Garnc2
    @Garnc2 Месяц назад

    Incredible work, fascinating to see how such straight forward advice makes a world of difference! In fact, it seems the hardest part is simply being disciplined enough to continuously keep up with long warmups and drills!
    Also, the V6/7 isn't necessarily 'soft' just because it's suited to your style, no need to be so hard on yourself - but if you can climb a few more blues then that'll really solidify your working grade.

  • @DeshDance
    @DeshDance 2 месяца назад

    What an amazing climbing video. I learnt a lot and would love to watch more. Subscribed!

  • @angko-pe
    @angko-pe 2 месяца назад

    This was super inspiring. I started climbing because we signed our daughter up for lessons, and I was bored of just sitting around waiting for her lessons to finish.
    Bouldring is definitely where i struggle the most. I am short and kind of heavy, and I lack the confidence to ask for help or guidance. I'll watch this video a couple of more times to get as much out of it as possible, and then I'll hopefully feel confident to try out some of the techniques the next time Im at the climbing gym.
    Ta.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      Good luck! Glad you felt it was useful!

  • @illustrationmaking
    @illustrationmaking 2 месяца назад

    absolutely excellent. I think what it gives me is confidence that the approach I've been using to improve has been the right one - in fact if I take on something that's going to take a few weeks I do what I can, learn something new, then rehearse that new part until I've got it down. usually its an energy thing that lets me down. working on that. What I haven't tried is decide on the crux and then work forwards and backwards on it. Cool stuff.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Nice. Hopefully tweaking your approach with the top down method works for you. Thanks for watching!

    • @illustrationmaking
      @illustrationmaking 2 месяца назад

      @@MikeBoydClimbs I’ll be giving it a go for certain!

  • @azndraon
    @azndraon 2 месяца назад

    great vid! i can def apply these tactics too to my own climbing. a part 2 or follow-up would be cool to see your improvement, and see you get coached on harder grades !

  • @aaronhauptmann869
    @aaronhauptmann869 2 месяца назад

    Fantastic progress, tactics have such a huge impact on performance. Its going a step further and ironing out the little imperfections on these harder climbs even past the send. Make sure you learn to seat the heel more accurately with more tension through your body. Really own every move. That will help you level up real fast!

  • @gingagingerful
    @gingagingerful 2 месяца назад

    Absolutely loved this, especially since that's the yellow I am currently struggling on! I think I'm definitely the guy that goes on a climb, tries the first move and gives up, I'll try this next time.

  • @pyre753
    @pyre753 Месяц назад

    banger vid. thanks for sharing

  • @ScobieClimbs
    @ScobieClimbs 2 месяца назад

    Class vid Mike! Good to see you and mat together 🎉

  • @sebarrow663
    @sebarrow663 2 месяца назад

    Great video! Instant subscription 👍👏👏👏

  • @daanmarchal8503
    @daanmarchal8503 2 месяца назад

    Really cool video! Engaging and insanely educational. I couldn't help myself but cheer you on, when you were climbing the blue route :) you've got a new sub!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад

      Welcome 😁 thanks for the support.

  • @qweasd9153
    @qweasd9153 2 месяца назад +5

    Bouldering is such a technical sport. People underestimate all the nuance and tatics in bouldering. Usually, sport climbing can feel a bit easier to progress because once you've done all the moves it is mostly about endurance, and traning it is mostly about doing more and more volume.
    While in bouldering you can't suddenly develop loads of power just by doing more of the same thing. You have to clean up your technique, find all the microbeta and rest a lot so you can give good burns. Obviously you must do all the physical training in the mean time but to unlock a new move you must learn how to climb better and spend a lot of time thinkg about body position, ways to grab the hold, ways to move from one position to another, etc...
    It can feel quite frustrating because in bouldering you don't get the sense of progress like sport climbing, since you wont climb 1 or 2 moves extra every session. You either do the new move or you don't.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      Well said. This is inline with what I've experienced too

  • @hotbeefo
    @hotbeefo 2 месяца назад

    Working the crux while fresh and adding moves before or after it is really useful advice. I need to start doing this more on routes near my limit even if they are indoors

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      great. hopefully it works for you as well as it did for me!

  • @CGPOOP
    @CGPOOP 2 месяца назад

    was very cool, would definitely watch another one of these!

  • @meninoglipster
    @meninoglipster 2 месяца назад

    9:36 hearing his tip of always get your hip perpendicular and seeing this climb after is crazy… Thanks mike

  • @idoido9590
    @idoido9590 2 месяца назад

    Mat is a brilliant coach!

  • @MrRadicalsheep
    @MrRadicalsheep 2 месяца назад

    Great video and some wounderful ideas that I want to add to my routine thanks for sharing!. I was yelling breath on that last climb hehe

  • @Dorderhan
    @Dorderhan 2 месяца назад

    Such a useful video!

  • @MarcoClimbsClassics
    @MarcoClimbsClassics 2 месяца назад

    Mat is an amazing coach, helped me break through my plateau

  • @NoahPrentice
    @NoahPrentice 2 месяца назад

    Great vid, keep it up!

  • @frits8986
    @frits8986 20 дней назад

    This guy is a natural talent in coaching.

  • @jaredogrady7513
    @jaredogrady7513 2 месяца назад

    Really helpful video, good work

  • @soejrd24978
    @soejrd24978 2 месяца назад

    Really like this coaching content! Although one thing I dislike a bit about pro/coach -content is that most of us aren't able to put in that much time and work. Maybe we're not even that motivated or interested in it. I really like bouldering as a sport, but it's just one of the many things in life I like, I'm not gonna commit 6+ hours to it in a week, even though I enjoy it deeply. All in all, I did really like this video. Some good tips I'll for sure try myself. Thanks Mike.

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      Hopefully you can incorporate these drills into your warmup and see results even if you only boulder a few hours a week. Thanks for watching!

  • @samericson3820
    @samericson3820 2 месяца назад

    Niiice!
    So awesome to see you learning fundamentals and movement from Mat like this. Can't wait to see more of your progression.... I guess competition climbing/style climbing is next ;)
    Battle of Britain 2024 climbing comp? 👀

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      I think comp style is something I have to address. It's a problem for me!

  • @jahshuah
    @jahshuah 2 месяца назад +1

    I'm convinced that 80% of climbing success is just getting over feeling like a dufus because other climbers saw you doing something "embarrassing." Whether that's visualizing something "easy" or falling off the wall or whatever. How much of our success is stunted because we're afraid of what other people might think? Great video and great tips. Thanks for putting this together, Mike-and thanks to Mat for his coaching!

    • @MikeBoydClimbs
      @MikeBoydClimbs  2 месяца назад +1

      Wise words here. I don't get embarrassed much at the gym anymore but it used to happen a lot! Thanks for watching!

  • @AnorexicPandas
    @AnorexicPandas 2 месяца назад

    Damn this is a great way to project

  • @headmanp
    @headmanp 2 месяца назад

    I had a plateau at v4 and recently got past it like a month ago did my first v6 yesterday and hope to improve like you did