Just a note, but one of the best ways I improved my climbing was a guy telling me to slow down. I used to rush up the wall since stamina is one of my rather big downsides. This advice got me way further than I had been and did a lot for my climbing.
Slow down to learn the correct technique, then speed up while maintaining good technique, and you'll be good to go ✌️ definitely worth experimenting with different speeds and styles, fast flowy dynamic Vs slow and steady static climbing
I love how you focus on having your hips close to the wall. Once I started focusing on that, most other techniques (that I had never heard about) just came to me naturally. I did hit my hip bone on the wall pretty badly once though.
Love the explanations and demonstrations in this video. Please consider making a public playlist of just the technique videos. They are a bit difficult to find among all the training vids.
The precision in this description is so helpful. Outside edge sounds like the pinky toe (opposite of the big toe), but it's not! It's all the other toes so you still have strength in the foot. Massively underexplained point which I didn't get for ages!
The heel plant is amazing if you can get it in, allows so much weight to get taken of the fingers and always great to get an interim rest in somewhere where you would otherwise be having to be pull very hard. Best tip of the Video. Cannot wait for the advanced Video.
I hadn't heard of a heel plant before but I definitely started doing that intuitively + seeing other people doing it early into climbing. Great explanation of all of these techniques!
Tom Randall Cool! One general thing I‘ve been thinking about: how about an episode sometime where you really try to go above most people‘s head in terms of high end tips / ideas? I‘ve often found to profit a lot from suggestions that I didn‘t understand at first, but which stuck in my head until I learned to appreciate them in time... (if that makes any sense...) thanks for all the great content, it‘s much appreciated!!
One of the most technical videos and well explained. Looking forward to the advanced one. The work in the background looks well on its way in the lockup.....
By far the best instructions I've seen for foot work! I'm garbage at toe hooks and I thought I had nailed the foot plant(apparently not) so I have loads of fun stuff to improve now! Thanks, great vid!
11:12 - could do with a bit of advice on ensuring you can release a heel-toe jam (particularly when the sole is towards the wall) - I always find it a bit sketchy when I have that much torque through my knee, spend up avoiding it if I’m not sure I can release on the next move.
Really like how well your explanations are very good video to help build technique this is very helpful to someone like me who doesn’t have a climbing facility nearby
Any advise for how to engage really slabby, flat footholds? Like when its basically a flat pancake that you can't edge on (at least I can't) ? Id love to see a video about how to properly utilize them.
Very good video! I realized I have been using heel toe jams and side heel rollup without knowing the technique. But be careful with both as I have a history of cross ligament rupture you shouldn't fall or slip on these moves ;)
Madlad here, but you can train your toehooks on a bike, by pulling with your toes instead of pressing with your feet. It's a bit awkward, but it kind-of works
I am 2m (6.7 ft) tall and live in asia. I always feel that i am super crunched when toe hooking, either because i need to flex knees or hips because the distance between holds is just too short for me where the short asians have extended joints. Is there a technical way to compensate for the height difference? Sometimes i can use a heel hook instead but the angles of the hold dont always allow for it.
Hey guys, I love the content. Just have one semi related question regarding your 7/3 x6 x10 protocol for building up aerobic base. Do you suggest getting to the point where you can add weight, or do the program twice in a row? I've had amazing progress in my endurance for it so far. Currently I do it twice in a row, once on ice tools with added weight, and then again on the 20mm edge with a bit of weight taken off. Appreciate it!
I’m watching this much later because I’m struggling with a toe hook start move and it occurs to me that I would find this video more helpful if they had an intermediate climber present to teach the technique. Tom is a crack climber and probably has good shin strength, so having a climber I can relate to would help me get more out of the video.
my current project has a heel plant but its not on a vertical wall its on a overhang, right on a lip of it. So when my right foot is planted my left leg is just hanging in the air which sucks.
Hey Tom, really nice video. I have a question though. Don't you need to be a bit careful when positioning your heel the way you showed it at the end? I once worked on a heel hook problem where I had my heel/foot in such a position but not just for a brief moment but a bit longer. And it felt like I had quite some body weight on it. In the end my heel started hurting quite a lot after I tried the problem several times so that I could not heel hook properly for a few days. Maybe I just executed it poorly but I was wondering whether maybe in general you need to be a bit careful about how long you are in this position and how much weight you apply on your heel in this position. Thanks in advance.
Yup it's definitely a technique that requires some care and understanding of climbing as a whole. It's a technique we'd recommend using more once you progress from beginner stage of climbing. Like many things in climbing, it comes with a level of risk! Take it easy, only go as far as you are confident and have an exit plan!!
you should definetely already have some climbing experience and regular exercise before you move into the more "brutal" heel plants. But then - oh boy - they can be glorious.
Depends how deep! In a way, it’s a technique that goes across the entire spectrum. We’ve covered the drop knee / twisting in our 5.12/7a video but we’ll definitely aim to do more!
Thanks for the video!! The details are amazing as always! What about the context in which to use a heelhook rather than a toehook and viceversa? (Speaking as a default-heelhooking kind of guy)
Just a note, but one of the best ways I improved my climbing was a guy telling me to slow down. I used to rush up the wall since stamina is one of my rather big downsides. This advice got me way further than I had been and did a lot for my climbing.
Thats funny, one of the best tips I got for sport climbing was to climb faster😂😂😂
Slow down to learn the correct technique, then speed up while maintaining good technique, and you'll be good to go ✌️ definitely worth experimenting with different speeds and styles, fast flowy dynamic Vs slow and steady static climbing
Lattice training has the best, most concise explanations of climbing techniques on youtube, hands down.
Keep up the great content!
yandra bouteflika thanks so much!!! We’ll keep trying to do our best!!
This isn't the kind on 'edging' i normally watch on the internet.....
That being said, this is also such great content. Nice one lads.
m w hate to think what that’s all about but there’s no way we’re googling what that means 😅
I love how you focus on having your hips close to the wall. Once I started focusing on that, most other techniques (that I had never heard about) just came to me naturally. I did hit my hip bone on the wall pretty badly once though.
some pain is part of a proper session usually :D
Love the explanations and demonstrations in this video. Please consider making a public playlist of just the technique videos. They are a bit difficult to find among all the training vids.
The precision in this description is so helpful. Outside edge sounds like the pinky toe (opposite of the big toe), but it's not! It's all the other toes so you still have strength in the foot. Massively underexplained point which I didn't get for ages!
The heel plant is amazing if you can get it in, allows so much weight to get taken of the fingers and always great to get an interim rest in somewhere where you would otherwise be having to be pull very hard. Best tip of the Video. Cannot wait for the advanced Video.
You’re an awesome instructor, Tom!
I hadn't heard of a heel plant before but I definitely started doing that intuitively + seeing other people doing it early into climbing. Great explanation of all of these techniques!
love how you were using the shoes to explain and illustrate the technique before demonstrating the moves on the wall. helps a great deal 👍👍👍
Great video! But now I need the advanced version!
Tom Randall Cool! One general thing I‘ve been thinking about: how about an episode sometime where you really try to go above most people‘s head in terms of high end tips / ideas? I‘ve often found to profit a lot from suggestions that I didn‘t understand at first, but which stuck in my head until I learned to appreciate them in time... (if that makes any sense...)
thanks for all the great content, it‘s much appreciated!!
@@BrunoAxhausen like for me it was "apply body tension!" and me thinking "what do they talk about?" ;)
One of the most technical videos and well explained. Looking forward to the advanced one. The work in the background looks well on its way in the lockup.....
I've been looking for ways to train my technique and this is very helpful, thanks!
You are explaining extremely well, this is very helpful, thank you so much!!!
By far the best instructions I've seen for foot work! I'm garbage at toe hooks and I thought I had nailed the foot plant(apparently not) so I have loads of fun stuff to improve now! Thanks, great vid!
11:12 - could do with a bit of advice on ensuring you can release a heel-toe jam (particularly when the sole is towards the wall) - I always find it a bit sketchy when I have that much torque through my knee, spend up avoiding it if I’m not sure I can release on the next move.
Always love the intro. Thanks for this session! I can already see many past climbs that would have benefitted from this :)
Keep practicing! 😊
Edging can be very frustrating, but after t doing it for a while, the end result is so satisfying ;)
Another. Great. Video!
RiccoB thanks!
This guy is a great coach!
Good video!I can climb V4+ ,my goal is V5 next year.
Really like how well your explanations are very good video to help build technique this is very helpful to someone like me who doesn’t have a climbing facility nearby
Really like these technique vids
Love these intermediate/more advanced technique videos
Brilliant! Great teaching--as usual!
Brilliant video. Thank you. Hope your channel continues to grow as it deserves!
Such an excellent teacher.
Have yall already done a video on exercises to strengthen heeling hook pulling?
You are the best coach
This guy is legendary!
So edging is goated
Thanks so much! I can't believe this is free
Best video so far
Thanks for these great explanations 😍
Awesome video Mate. Thank you 😀👍
Absolutely awesome
ok, I see. Masterclass will be THE KNEEBAR :)
+1 for the safety advise :*
Yes we have this in the pipeline!
Amazing video thank you!
This is so freaking helpful
Great video as always, can you also cover ways to weight much smaller holds and climb hard slabs?
Any advise for how to engage really slabby, flat footholds? Like when its basically a flat pancake that you can't edge on (at least I can't) ? Id love to see a video about how to properly utilize them.
Another great video!
Great explanation, thanks!
Well done video
bro bent leg toe hooks are great use them all the time
Great video thanks for sharing! Could you do a grit specific footwork video? Thank you
Excellent video - thank you. Clear and concise with great demonstrations!
Woohoo! Thank you guys!
How do you remove the foot at the toe-heel lock if you fall? Got the shivers at 11.16. how can you apply it without risking your knee?
Thank you
watching this because i miss climbing so much...
Very good video! I realized I have been using heel toe jams and side heel rollup without knowing the technique. But be careful with both as I have a history of cross ligament rupture you shouldn't fall or slip on these moves ;)
Incredibly helpful and informative. Thanks for uploading!
Madlad here, but you can train your toehooks on a bike, by pulling with your toes instead of pressing with your feet. It's a bit awkward, but it kind-of works
I am 2m (6.7 ft) tall and live in asia. I always feel that i am super crunched when toe hooking, either because i need to flex knees or hips because the distance between holds is just too short for me where the short asians have extended joints. Is there a technical way to compensate for the height difference? Sometimes i can use a heel hook instead but the angles of the hold dont always allow for it.
Hey guys, I love the content.
Just have one semi related question regarding your 7/3 x6 x10 protocol for building up aerobic base. Do you suggest getting to the point where you can add weight, or do the program twice in a row? I've had amazing progress in my endurance for it so far. Currently I do it twice in a row, once on ice tools with added weight, and then again on the 20mm edge with a bit of weight taken off.
Appreciate it!
Eric William normally you would look to increase volume on this one, unless you were in peak phase.
@@LatticeTraining appreciate it! That program has been incredible for me. Thanks for you all you guys do for the climbing community.
Unintentionally been using some of these techniques because I'm short and the only way I can reach holds is to push my hips closer to the wall
I’m watching this much later because I’m struggling with a toe hook start move and it occurs to me that I would find this video more helpful if they had an intermediate climber present to teach the technique. Tom is a crack climber and probably has good shin strength, so having a climber I can relate to would help me get more out of the video.
my current project has a heel plant but its not on a vertical wall its on a overhang, right on a lip of it. So when my right foot is planted my left leg is just hanging in the air which sucks.
Hey Tom, really nice video. I have a question though. Don't you need to be a bit careful when positioning your heel the way you showed it at the end? I once worked on a heel hook problem where I had my heel/foot in such a position but not just for a brief moment but a bit longer. And it felt like I had quite some body weight on it. In the end my heel started hurting quite a lot after I tried the problem several times so that I could not heel hook properly for a few days. Maybe I just executed it poorly but I was wondering whether maybe in general you need to be a bit careful about how long you are in this position and how much weight you apply on your heel in this position. Thanks in advance.
Yup it's definitely a technique that requires some care and understanding of climbing as a whole. It's a technique we'd recommend using more once you progress from beginner stage of climbing. Like many things in climbing, it comes with a level of risk! Take it easy, only go as far as you are confident and have an exit plan!!
Lovely accent you have there. New Jersey?
Great!
Tom, what is that sweet looking teal shoe you are toe hooking with?
A mystery to this day
🐱👤The heel-toe-jam looks a bit scary for me.
.
Yep, if you fall and your foot is stuck...
Jonnes __ yup, you’ve got to be really careful with this one. Get a nice strong spotter and don’t lock it in too hard when first starting!
Be careful with the last technique. I tore my meniscus in a position like that...
you should definetely already have some climbing experience and regular exercise before you move into the more "brutal" heel plants. But then - oh boy - they can be glorious.
Are drop knees considered an advanced technique?
Depends how deep! In a way, it’s a technique that goes across the entire spectrum. We’ve covered the drop knee / twisting in our 5.12/7a video but we’ll definitely aim to do more!
#climbing
Sub
and almost no crack xD
👨🏫🐒
@7:06 that's racist
Thanks for the video!! The details are amazing as always!
What about the context in which to use a heelhook rather than a toehook and viceversa? (Speaking as a default-heelhooking kind of guy)
We'll see if we can cover this in future episodes!