Love the video! Definitely going to try this routine. Could you also do a video for climbing specific tension in a square to the wall position on steep terrain, 30-45 degrees? I find I train my "core" and legs, but this doesn't transfer over very well to keeping tension, on small, steep foot holds. Thank you!!
...Perhaps "contact strength", or the capacity to acquire stable control of a hold dynamically approached, especially where that is a sloper. It seems that colloquially the campus board is what is recommended to train this, but I wonder what your thoughts are?
Just to say that I've been doing these exercises for around 6 months now and honestly, I've never thought that my hips would feel so different. Thank you!
Me too. I used to feel a clear upper limit for high feet as tightness in my hip flexors but I've noticed that's disappeared with regular hip mobility work.
Great video. I noticed limitations in that area before and made some progress already but I will definitely implement these in my workout. Getting a climb done in control is just so much more rewarding in my opinion then getting up there somehow.. ;)
This is great! I've never seen that frogger position before but glad to know that doing yoga in general is super useful for climbing. One question I have is surrounding high stepping all the time. I've been told by pretty accomplished climbers that stepping up too high ALL the time can be a bit of an energy sink compared to making a couple smaller movements at times. I used to make the biggest possible movements on a lot of climbs until someone told me to not be going for full extensions with arms or legs all the time. I assume with most things there's always a balance to be found between using lots of high steps with more conservative movements that still engage the legs and proper footwork? Thanks for the video, I've really been digging the content from this channel!
Yes! That is correct. There are certainly times when using lower feet and conserve energy. It's always a balance and every project needs to be examined for the best beta for each climber. Having this ability, though, can certainly save you and save energy if you are able to get the foot up and rock onto it!
Can you do an episode on stretching - short term versus long term effects? I can get benefits before a climb, but I want to know how to make long term changes to hip flexibility.
damn my hip mobility. high feet in some cases (depending on the hold as well) can be very tricky for me. definitely doing there frequently from now on.
I've done the 3 stretches for about 10 days now (once per day), but they caused my right inner thigh to hurt. It got worse every day so I stopped them now. Hopefully the pain goes away
Excellent video as always!!! On a side note, your voice sounds similar to David Spade...are you sure you aren't a professional nutritionist comedian climber? lol
Whats the end goal of the frogger stretch? Will our hips/butt eventually touch the ground in that position if we’re flexible enough? If that is so, im light years behind😅
good video except for the stretching.. studies show that static stretching before workouts can actually be very harmful for you, you should instead recommend to people some dynamic stretching, which has been scientifically proven to be better than static stretching, static stretching should only be done AFTER a workout, not before
I couldn't disagree with this video more. For 99% of climbers on 99% of routes (especially on real rock) keeping the feet low, and making lots of foot movements for each hand movement will produce huge gains. This has worked well for me, even though I have excellent hip flexibility when I need it. When I watch someone at the wall making unnecessary high foot movements, I see it as a sign of bad technique. Yes it's great to be able to do wild moves with your feet high, and it's a great technique to be able to pull out of the bag when you need to. But small, multiple foot movements should be the go-to technique. I blame indoor walls for this. In order to make routes harder, setters deliberately try to disrupt your footwork, by putting footholds in awkward places. On real rock, you can find a foothold, even if it's tiny, just where you need it 70% of the time.
Thanks Hooper! I've been doing these stretches since you released the video as a novice climber and the difference on the wall is night and day even after that short period of stretching regularly. Really hope this channel blows up soon, as a new climber looking to start strong and avoid injury, this content is gold and corrects some of the bro science that you're never quite sure whether to believe or not.
Honestly, since starting a yoga routine earlier this year, my body awareness is at it's peak. Working on my hip mobility is one of the best things that I've done for my climbing. Thanks for the beta!
Hey Dr Hooper. Wondering if you could talk about brachioradialis pain. Mine has been going on for nearly a year now and always comes back when climbing a couple sessions after a break. It always hurts with pronated elbow flexion (ie climbing). Supinated bicep curls don't do anything to hurt it.
I'm really happy about myself on that aspect. My wife is jealous of my open hips and like Margot Hayes I can put my heelhook above my head for some weird rest positions on routes.
I started on this one year ago and I can see improvements on the wall (thanks!) But my frog stretch is barely wider then when I started. Why no visible progress?
I’d love to hear some words from you about gaston move - sometime ago it triggered my shoulder injury and now I still can’t do it. But when I’ll rehab totally, I wonder how it is supposed to be done safely (or at least as safe as possible). Because for the most of the time arm is in internal rotation, which isn’t may cause some impingement there, right? Take care, have a good climb!
With excess bone on the femur heads and labrum tears, most of this is painful, but i naturally i don't have much trouble with high feet too bad. It's even worse abducting that shit hurts. So when possible, i climb with closed hips, with one side of the hips close to the wall
I’m climbing 6a and I’ve just realised just how shocking my hip and leg mobility is. I can’t even get my butt to touch my heels in child’s pose, regardless of where my torso is. With most fitness being cardio focussed in the past, stretching is about injury prevention and reducing aches but never truly essential to performance, so skipped stretching…for literally my whole life. Then building a bunch of strength without ever focussing on mobility means I’m even stiffer than I would be naturally. Sooo yeah, at least now I’m climbing I have a better motivation to stretch so I hope I see some improvement.
Oh dang yeah it definitely sounds like some stretching would be beneficial for you and your climbing! Just be patient, it can take some time to improve upon :)
@@HoopersBeta I think those people who really enjoy stretching and find it calming / endorphin boosting whatever, I don’t think they realise how lucky they are because I find it a real chore to do - but if I see some progress with leg and hip mobility on the wall then that’s good. Don’t even ask me about my shoulders ugh.
These excercises are just what I need. Thanks! As always, I also like how you present them. One question - should I worry if my hips crack when doing the excercise in front of the wall, or is that just a sign of low mobility?
If it's painfree and that reduces after working on your mobility then that's fine but if it creates pain then you'll want to get it further evaluated (or just keep working on your mobility and see if it reduces over time :))
I never knew the Garlands Pose had an actual name for it. I do that squat pose about 50 times a day, every day, as it is my dog petting position lol :)
These exercise recommendations are super helpful! Plus the fact that it's also accesible on your website in text format is a biiiiiig plus! Thanks so much!
I would likely try a standing side split, or even a single leg adductor stretch on an elevated surface and work through hip ER and IR to make it more functional.
There's a 6c(ish) boulder problem at my gym where i would need like 3 cm more hip mobility to send it. I can do every other move but it has this close-to-front-split move up high which I just can't make. Even though I pretty flexible. I hope the problem is still up...
Thanks for the great video! I have a question about mobility and high feet: I can easily get my feet up high when hold are to the side, but when a hold is in front of me, I have much less mobility. Are there exercises specifically for high feet mobility, but not in frog-like positions, but rather in positions where your foot is in front of you? Thanks!
Hey Dr. Hoop, Do you have any advice for people with unstable/hypermobile hips? I still think I could benefit from increased mobility, if it can be done safely. But when I try the exercise in part 2, I get mild pain in the hip of the leg I’m standing on - like the surrounding muscles are working really hard to keep my hip in position. Sometimes, on the wall, it'll even feel like my hip pops out of its socket partially. I have hypermobility issues in a lot of my joints (esp. wrists, fingers, and hips), but I’m trying to save my questions until they’re relevant to the video at hand. I don’t know if hypermobility is a common enough issue to justify it’s own video, but, if it is, that would be amazingly helpful for me. Thanks!
For an oversimplified way to check your mobility / see if you are hypermobile, look up the Beighton Hypermobility Score. *be gentle, don't be overly aggressive, and perform at your own risk* :) When it comes to your mobility concern. Progressive strength training of the hips and core is really important. Start with easier / more simple exercises, and progressively move into more challenging exercise (whether that in respect to resistance, or range of motion). I love side steps with band at toes for a simple yet really effect hip exercise. And Palof press with walk out for the core. *again, perform at your own risk*. There are of course many other examples but these are some great ones.
@@HoopersBeta Thanks! I’ve been diagnosed as hypermobile, so there’s no doubt there. I already do the first exercise several times per week (as prescribed by the pelvic PT I previously saw), but I had not heard of the second. I will check that out.
Would you recommend this routine for stemming flexibility? I have terrible hip flexibility and my range of motion is super limited when I am at end range (i.e. stemming). I would be psyched to make corners/stemboxes easier!
First off, love your videos! While I very much agree with everything you're saying, I wouldn't say the first example you gave was accurate. The 'Poor Technique' example (@1:28) I would argue is actually way more efficient depending on the type of climbing you're doing. Making smaller, easier, movements might be the key to unlocking a certain type of climbing. Making bigger moves isn't always the right way. While the Improved Technique method gets you up the wall faster, you're straining both your arms and your legs a whole lot more. I think a better example would have been something like having to cut feet to place a high foot/heel versus being able to keep your lower foot on, while place a high foot/heel
Thanks, glad you like the videos! And I agree with what you're saying to some extent, but here's the thing -- it's impossible to show perfect, simplified examples of complex techniques. There will always be a flaw in the presentation you can point out because of such and such situation or limitation or whatever. Even the example you propose could easily have holes poked in it. The point is never to create the most perfect example that can be applied practically in every situation because that's literally impossible with climbing. Instead, we have to create an easy-to-understand generalization illustrated in physical reality that is also interesting to look at.
@@HoopersBeta As a software developer, I very much understand the inability to always give 'perfect' examples, but there is a difference between a good example and a correct one. Sometimes in software, giving an example is harder than just telling someone, 'here's how you should do it', but the example is maybe even more important than the actual concept. Most people learn by example and they continually re-adjust their knowledge based on all those examples they've seen, especially as a beginner. So what they're visually seeing is also important to engraining the concept into their practice. Anyways, we could debate this all day and it would be an interesting one at that! But here's to amazing free content you're supplying and keep doing what you're doing!
Thanks for these amazing videos! Quick question - I get a lot of restriction/moderate pinching pain on the lateral/posterior part of my standing left leg's hamstring when doing the active range exercise - I have (suspected) sciatica on that side, would you suggest continuing on with these exercises, or is it time I see a specialist such as yourself? :)
I know it's already been said in a few forms but: Hooper's Beta is low key thee best RUclips channel for climbers! I took me a lil while to realize but now I'm totally hooked on this channel! Such high-level information and several levels above any other instructional/informational climbing channels
Definitely not underrated when you're a petite climber though ! I've been struggling with my hip mobility so thank you for those exercises that I'm gonna do religiously. Great video, super clear explanations, thank you so much.
Hey dude, thanks for the information, it's awesome. Would it be dangerous to do the stretches every day, and twice a day on climbing days? I see the recommendation is 3-6x a week so I am wondering if rest days are necessary with something like this. Cheers!
Can’t wait to try this out! Will this also help with “snapping hip”? It’s never been painful, but I’m worried it’s going to turn in to a problem down the line. If not, what can I do to fix it/prevent further damage?
Been searching for something like this for months. I have the hip flexibility of a tin man, just yesterday had to campus a move like the ignorant caveman I am 'cause I wasn't able to place a high heel hook to save my life. Time to stretch like a mat!
@@HoopersBeta by a game changer I dont talk only about the performances, I also mean it changes about the pure feeling of climbing movements, satisfaction is getting so much better because it allows to apply most of the technics in a better way with a lot more efficiency.
Don’t sleep on this stuff, I forced myself into awkward positions despite not really having the hip mobility to be in those position and it surely contributed to meniscus tear
My underrated climbing skills: Bouldering: Palming down, especially for mantles. Sport Climbing: Being comfortable with climbing above the bolt, not being afraid to whip safely.
This is great but I totally disagree with the example videos at around 1:50. It is not “inefficient” from an energy perspective to use lower feet on a vertical/ slight overhanging wall. It is inefficient to use high feet because you are using a less efficient range of your leg strength (knee angles 135 to 180) and high feet will tend to put bigger reaction forces on your hands (more pulling in needed). The reason I think high feet are so great is because it unlocks certain footholds to be usable on relatively blank walls, especially vertical walls and slabs, not for “efficiency “.
High feet can often reduce the strain on your hands IF you’re able to keep your hips close to the wall, whereas constantly using low feet will lead to many more movements which usually results in more time on the wall meaning more energy used. It all depends on the climb, though. Of course high feet can be more inefficient than low feet at certain times. There’s no rule saying “always use high feet,” however it’s an important skill to have in your bag o’ tricks :) -Emile
@@HoopersBeta Hips closer to the wall = less strain on the hands? Definitely in a drop knee, but otherwise generally why would that be true? I’m trying to imagine the physics of it and it seems like it would be harder to suck your hips into the wall than with low feet. Easier to make sure your legs are activated though compared to straight maybe. Also, I had a feeling that by efficiency you meant number of moves used. Which if you can skip holds the climb is probably inconsequential for you anyway. My gripe with this usage of efficiency is it is not the critical parameter. Having the most energy leftover at the end of the climb should be the mark of efficiency. Because if you watch videos of pros on sport climbs they make a zillion ticky tack foot moves to get their bodies in just the right position.
The easiest example is just to look at the thumbnail. It’s obviously an exaggeration, but it shows the basic point. Hips close to the wall in some situations can allow you to shift more weight directly downwards onto your feet, taking weight off your hands. (And that’s just one example. There are many, many other situations where high feet can be better than low feet or even essential to finishing the climb.) Like I said, there’s no rule that “high feet will always be best.” It’s all situation-based. Same for efficiency; there are many factors involved, which I don’t think anyone is arguing against.
@@HoopersBeta Yup, fair enough. It is totally underrated. I was the weakest beginner I've ever known (even after years of coaching) and perching on high feet whether on toes or heels was a critical part of my smart-not-strong toolbox. I just think a better visual example and more undeniable argument could be made for the usefulness of getting hyphyt. I love the vids, keep them coming.
Hi fam! What's the most underrated climbing skill in your guys' opinion?
For me that would be trying hard =) I mean this is a skill and nearly everybody I know just don't push themselve =P
Confidence/trust in yourself and your materials
this! and knowing how long to rest between attempts lol
Love the video! Definitely going to try this routine. Could you also do a video for climbing specific tension in a square to the wall position on steep terrain, 30-45 degrees? I find I train my "core" and legs, but this doesn't transfer over very well to keeping tension, on small, steep foot holds. Thank you!!
...Perhaps "contact strength", or the capacity to acquire stable control of a hold dynamically approached, especially where that is a sloper. It seems that colloquially the campus board is what is recommended to train this, but I wonder what your thoughts are?
Just to say that I've been doing these exercises for around 6 months now and honestly, I've never thought that my hips would feel so different. Thank you!
Awesome!! Thanks for posting the feedback. Happy it's working :)
Me too. I used to feel a clear upper limit for high feet as tightness in my hip flexors but I've noticed that's disappeared with regular hip mobility work.
You should have way more subscribers. One of the best climbing related channels! Thanks for the great content that always comes at the right time ;-)
Thank you! Thankful for such a great community
Is this our first time seeing you climbing in a gym? Great video as always!
Hah it might be! Since the Pandemic, I would definitely call myself an outdoor climber :) And thank you!
Great video. I noticed limitations in that area before and made some progress already but I will definitely implement these in my workout.
Getting a climb done in control is just so much more rewarding in my opinion then getting up there somehow.. ;)
This is great! I've never seen that frogger position before but glad to know that doing yoga in general is super useful for climbing. One question I have is surrounding high stepping all the time. I've been told by pretty accomplished climbers that stepping up too high ALL the time can be a bit of an energy sink compared to making a couple smaller movements at times. I used to make the biggest possible movements on a lot of climbs until someone told me to not be going for full extensions with arms or legs all the time. I assume with most things there's always a balance to be found between using lots of high steps with more conservative movements that still engage the legs and proper footwork? Thanks for the video, I've really been digging the content from this channel!
Yes! That is correct. There are certainly times when using lower feet and conserve energy. It's always a balance and every project needs to be examined for the best beta for each climber. Having this ability, though, can certainly save you and save energy if you are able to get the foot up and rock onto it!
This is what I needed. Thanks for the guidance.
Welcome!
So glad I found your channel and a ton of thanks for including the bloopers!
Glad you found us as well! Haha the bloopers are always fun :)
Climbing wall Hooper. What we've been waiting for!
Can you do an episode on stretching - short term versus long term effects? I can get benefits before a climb, but I want to know how to make long term changes to hip flexibility.
Super helpful. Thank you!! Any chance you could do a similar video for drop knee mobility? 🙏🏻
Nice and clear 👍
Glad you think so!
damn my hip mobility. high feet in some cases (depending on the hold as well) can be very tricky for me. definitely doing there frequently from now on.
If you can, it's definitely a great skill to improve!
I've done the 3 stretches for about 10 days now (once per day), but they caused my right inner thigh to hurt. It got worse every day so I stopped them now. Hopefully the pain goes away
I always just call the last one the "gonna get f*cked by my proj" stretch.
Excellent 💟🌌☮️
Excellent video as always!!! On a side note, your voice sounds similar to David Spade...are you sure you aren't a professional nutritionist comedian climber? lol
😂😂 might have to put that as my new credentials!
What if you have unusual natural flexibility? If these stretches are easy, will you benefit from these?
Whats the end goal of the frogger stretch? Will our hips/butt eventually touch the ground in that position if we’re flexible enough? If that is so, im light years behind😅
I don't think that *needs* to be the goal. Some elite climbers have wonderful mobility in this range but touching the ground? that's next level.
good video except for the stretching.. studies show that static stretching before workouts can actually be very harmful for you, you should instead recommend to people some dynamic stretching, which has been scientifically proven to be better than static stretching, static stretching should only be done AFTER a workout, not before
Remember, you're only as strong as you are flexible
I couldn't disagree with this video more. For 99% of climbers on 99% of routes (especially on real rock) keeping the feet low, and making lots of foot movements for each hand movement will produce huge gains. This has worked well for me, even though I have excellent hip flexibility when I need it. When I watch someone at the wall making unnecessary high foot movements, I see it as a sign of bad technique. Yes it's great to be able to do wild moves with your feet high, and it's a great technique to be able to pull out of the bag when you need to. But small, multiple foot movements should be the go-to technique. I blame indoor walls for this. In order to make routes harder, setters deliberately try to disrupt your footwork, by putting footholds in awkward places. On real rock, you can find a foothold, even if it's tiny, just where you need it 70% of the time.
Damn you Hooper ! Exposing my secret weapon and only climbing skill to everyone =(
Sharing is caring... 😅
Thanks Hooper! I've been doing these stretches since you released the video as a novice climber and the difference on the wall is night and day even after that short period of stretching regularly. Really hope this channel blows up soon, as a new climber looking to start strong and avoid injury, this content is gold and corrects some of the bro science that you're never quite sure whether to believe or not.
That's awesome! Thanks for the comment, Joel. Happy to hear it has helped. Thanks for following along!
Honestly, since starting a yoga routine earlier this year, my body awareness is at it's peak. Working on my hip mobility is one of the best things that I've done for my climbing. Thanks for the beta!
time to bust out the yoga mat
really informative thanks :)
As a heavier man with two knee surgeries in the past. This helps me so much! Can't wait to hit the gym to try this stuff out.
Hey Dr Hooper. Wondering if you could talk about brachioradialis pain. Mine has been going on for nearly a year now and always comes back when climbing a couple sessions after a break. It always hurts with pronated elbow flexion (ie climbing). Supinated bicep curls don't do anything to hurt it.
I'm really happy about myself on that aspect. My wife is jealous of my open hips and like Margot Hayes I can put my heelhook above my head for some weird rest positions on routes.
This is my biggest (of many) weakness. Hopefully doing these will help.
Amazing! Thank you - been looking for a good pre-climb warm-up and stretch especially for my legs as I tend to be quite stiff here! Great video
Thank you! Glad you found it to be useful
Great video. Being a tall climber this will be very helpful
From 6:55 onwords i really feel my tight tissue getting broken up... weird feeling, hope it helps :D
Good Vid!
I started on this one year ago and I can see improvements on the wall (thanks!) But my frog stretch is barely wider then when I started. Why no visible progress?
I’d love to hear some words from you about gaston move - sometime ago it triggered my shoulder injury and now I still can’t do it. But when I’ll rehab totally, I wonder how it is supposed to be done safely (or at least as safe as possible). Because for the most of the time arm is in internal rotation, which isn’t may cause some impingement there, right?
Take care, have a good climb!
Summary: One of the secrets to improving your climbing technique is incorporating yoga! 😉
My only advice while watching friends climb is "can you get your feet higher?"
I climb with a tiny box.
4:29 sheesh, i came here for my hip quest and this dude just slaps me with another sidequest...
Who else wants a video about knee pain (causes and solutions) ?!?!?! Hit that like button!
Working on it!! :)
Great to hear that!!! Thanks a lot to you and your team 🙏
With excess bone on the femur heads and labrum tears, most of this is painful, but i naturally i don't have much trouble with high feet too bad. It's even worse abducting that shit hurts. So when possible, i climb with closed hips, with one side of the hips close to the wall
Child's pose stretches my shoulders more than anything -_-
I cannot do the child's pose strech, my knees cannot bend that far :(
which pants are you using?
Vuori Fleet Pants. One of my favorite pairs!
Good video, but those streches can tense your glutes a lot, so i'd recommend streching them too at the end, to compensate. At least that's what I do.
For some reason the subtitles of this video are in chinese? Its not a problem I'm just confused
wow lucky me ive been unkowingly practising frog pose
I can't believe I'm just now finding you. This is the BEST climbing content I've ever seen. Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you!
I’ve been working on this for the last few months and it’s helped my climbing g more then anything.
Crazy how useful it can be!
It is strange to me that people can't do these easily without warmups.
I’m climbing 6a and I’ve just realised just how shocking my hip and leg mobility is. I can’t even get my butt to touch my heels in child’s pose, regardless of where my torso is. With most fitness being cardio focussed in the past, stretching is about injury prevention and reducing aches but never truly essential to performance, so skipped stretching…for literally my whole life. Then building a bunch of strength without ever focussing on mobility means I’m even stiffer than I would be naturally. Sooo yeah, at least now I’m climbing I have a better motivation to stretch so I hope I see some improvement.
Oh dang yeah it definitely sounds like some stretching would be beneficial for you and your climbing! Just be patient, it can take some time to improve upon :)
@@HoopersBeta I think those people who really enjoy stretching and find it calming / endorphin boosting whatever, I don’t think they realise how lucky they are because I find it a real chore to do - but if I see some progress with leg and hip mobility on the wall then that’s good. Don’t even ask me about my shoulders ugh.
This is very good. Simple yet informative. It is things that I have been doing but you are able to explain in more depth.
These excercises are just what I need. Thanks! As always, I also like how you present them. One question - should I worry if my hips crack when doing the excercise in front of the wall, or is that just a sign of low mobility?
If it's painfree and that reduces after working on your mobility then that's fine but if it creates pain then you'll want to get it further evaluated (or just keep working on your mobility and see if it reduces over time :))
Love this. Love ya'll.
This is so great! High feet or bust!
I never knew the Garlands Pose had an actual name for it. I do that squat pose about 50 times a day, every day, as it is my dog petting position lol :)
Hahaha best way to use it!
Cracking good tips and explanation Thankyou!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Its just the frog stretch!! What the hell is a frogger 😂😂😂 great video though some real gems in here 👍
Frogger, like the og video game :)
These exercise recommendations are super helpful! Plus the fact that it's also accesible on your website in text format is a biiiiiig plus! Thanks so much!
Awesome! Thanks for the comment. I'm always curious how helpful the show notes are to people so your feedback is appreciated!
Good stuff.
BE CAREFUL with the frog stretch. You can hurt yourself quickly. Go slow into the reverse!
all those knee serguries made it for me that its painful on my knee in this pose at 5:55.. got any alternatives?
I would likely try a standing side split, or even a single leg adductor stretch on an elevated surface and work through hip ER and IR to make it more functional.
wait this is The Wall in Vista. LOL I just started going there a few weeks ago
Sure is!
Got emotional seing my video! Great work as always
Also waiting for an ankle mobility video, I find so hard to find effective exercises :'(
Ankle mobility would be a great future vid! Added to the list :)
@@HoopersBeta Can't wait!
I actually suggested you to be invited to Climber's Crag yt channel. Hope they'll pick the suggestion up!
There's a 6c(ish) boulder problem at my gym where i would need like 3 cm more hip mobility to send it. I can do every other move but it has this close-to-front-split move up high which I just can't make. Even though I pretty flexible. I hope the problem is still up...
Thanks for the great video! I have a question about mobility and high feet: I can easily get my feet up high when hold are to the side, but when a hold is in front of me, I have much less mobility. Are there exercises specifically for high feet mobility, but not in frog-like positions, but rather in positions where your foot is in front of you? Thanks!
This was the awesome video I didn't know I needed. Thank you!
Nice! Happy to hear that. Hope it helps!
Hey Dr. Hoop,
Do you have any advice for people with unstable/hypermobile hips?
I still think I could benefit from increased mobility, if it can be done safely. But when I try the exercise in part 2, I get mild pain in the hip of the leg I’m standing on - like the surrounding muscles are working really hard to keep my hip in position. Sometimes, on the wall, it'll even feel like my hip pops out of its socket partially.
I have hypermobility issues in a lot of my joints (esp. wrists, fingers, and hips), but I’m trying to save my questions until they’re relevant to the video at hand. I don’t know if hypermobility is a common enough issue to justify it’s own video, but, if it is, that would be amazingly helpful for me.
Thanks!
For an oversimplified way to check your mobility / see if you are hypermobile, look up the Beighton Hypermobility Score. *be gentle, don't be overly aggressive, and perform at your own risk* :)
When it comes to your mobility concern. Progressive strength training of the hips and core is really important. Start with easier / more simple exercises, and progressively move into more challenging exercise (whether that in respect to resistance, or range of motion). I love side steps with band at toes for a simple yet really effect hip exercise. And Palof press with walk out for the core. *again, perform at your own risk*. There are of course many other examples but these are some great ones.
@@HoopersBeta Thanks! I’ve been diagnosed as hypermobile, so there’s no doubt there. I already do the first exercise several times per week (as prescribed by the pelvic PT I previously saw), but I had not heard of the second. I will check that out.
Woah, what is that song
Would you recommend this routine for stemming flexibility? I have terrible hip flexibility and my range of motion is super limited when I am at end range (i.e. stemming). I would be psyched to make corners/stemboxes easier!
First off, love your videos! While I very much agree with everything you're saying, I wouldn't say the first example you gave was accurate. The 'Poor Technique' example (@1:28) I would argue is actually way more efficient depending on the type of climbing you're doing. Making smaller, easier, movements might be the key to unlocking a certain type of climbing. Making bigger moves isn't always the right way. While the Improved Technique method gets you up the wall faster, you're straining both your arms and your legs a whole lot more. I think a better example would have been something like having to cut feet to place a high foot/heel versus being able to keep your lower foot on, while place a high foot/heel
Thanks, glad you like the videos! And I agree with what you're saying to some extent, but here's the thing -- it's impossible to show perfect, simplified examples of complex techniques. There will always be a flaw in the presentation you can point out because of such and such situation or limitation or whatever. Even the example you propose could easily have holes poked in it. The point is never to create the most perfect example that can be applied practically in every situation because that's literally impossible with climbing. Instead, we have to create an easy-to-understand generalization illustrated in physical reality that is also interesting to look at.
@@HoopersBeta As a software developer, I very much understand the inability to always give 'perfect' examples, but there is a difference between a good example and a correct one. Sometimes in software, giving an example is harder than just telling someone, 'here's how you should do it', but the example is maybe even more important than the actual concept. Most people learn by example and they continually re-adjust their knowledge based on all those examples they've seen, especially as a beginner. So what they're visually seeing is also important to engraining the concept into their practice. Anyways, we could debate this all day and it would be an interesting one at that! But here's to amazing free content you're supplying and keep doing what you're doing!
Nice, No captions for us deaf climbers.. no accessibility here.. would've loved to watch your content
I rarely come across gold like this! Great video!
Thank you for the kind words!
what is send?
Thanks for these amazing videos! Quick question - I get a lot of restriction/moderate pinching pain on the lateral/posterior part of my standing left leg's hamstring when doing the active range exercise - I have (suspected) sciatica on that side, would you suggest continuing on with these exercises, or is it time I see a specialist such as yourself? :)
I know it's already been said in a few forms but: Hooper's Beta is low key thee best RUclips channel for climbers!
I took me a lil while to realize but now I'm totally hooked on this channel! Such high-level information and several levels above any other instructional/informational climbing channels
Definitely not underrated when you're a petite climber though ! I've been struggling with my hip mobility so thank you for those exercises that I'm gonna do religiously. Great video, super clear explanations, thank you so much.
Hey dude, thanks for the information, it's awesome. Would it be dangerous to do the stretches every day, and twice a day on climbing days? I see the recommendation is 3-6x a week so I am wondering if rest days are necessary with something like this. Cheers!
Can’t wait to try this out! Will this also help with “snapping hip”? It’s never been painful, but I’m worried it’s going to turn in to a problem down the line. If not, what can I do to fix it/prevent further damage?
This is great! Thank you. Kind regards, Daniel
What pants are you wearing? I want some.
Vuori! **not sponsored**
Been searching for something like this for months. I have the hip flexibility of a tin man, just yesterday had to campus a move like the ignorant caveman I am 'cause I wasn't able to place a high heel hook to save my life. Time to stretch like a mat!
Thank you Mr. Hooper's
Really helpfull in a good way ! 😃
Hips flexibility and mobility is really a game changer....
Agreed!
@@HoopersBeta by a game changer I dont talk only about the performances, I also mean it changes about the pure feeling of climbing movements, satisfaction is getting so much better because it allows to apply most of the technics in a better way with a lot more efficiency.
Don’t sleep on this stuff, I forced myself into awkward positions despite not really having the hip mobility to be in those position and it surely contributed to meniscus tear
Shouldn't be "envy" more than "jealousy"?
How is it that everytime I have climbing related questions and concerns, you guys release a video about it the same week? Awesome video, thanks!
Great video and love the outtakes too!
I miss the outtakes! Those are always fun :)
Super instructive! Thanks for all the work you put in your videos!
#GoViralAlready
Supernice thanksss!!❤❤
Welcome!
Great, I will try this out. Thanks!
It would be nice to add in some hip extensor work at that end range to the routine also
You should research "knees over toes guy" and do a vid on some of the stuff he does its helped me so much in climbing
Thanks for the info, Handsome Hank Green ;)
i want to send this video to all my male climbing friends (:
When you can't do any of the static ones due to a previous torn meniscus. :(
Guter stuff :)
My underrated climbing skills:
Bouldering: Palming down, especially for mantles.
Sport Climbing: Being comfortable with climbing above the bolt, not being afraid to whip safely.
Great post... as usual 👏👏👏. Thanks Hooper!!!
what pants is he wearing???
Vuori. Love em!
This is great but I totally disagree with the example videos at around 1:50. It is not “inefficient” from an energy perspective to use lower feet on a vertical/ slight overhanging wall. It is inefficient to use high feet because you are using a less efficient range of your leg strength (knee angles 135 to 180) and high feet will tend to put bigger reaction forces on your hands (more pulling in needed). The reason I think high feet are so great is because it unlocks certain footholds to be usable on relatively blank walls, especially vertical walls and slabs, not for “efficiency “.
High feet can often reduce the strain on your hands IF you’re able to keep your hips close to the wall, whereas constantly using low feet will lead to many more movements which usually results in more time on the wall meaning more energy used. It all depends on the climb, though. Of course high feet can be more inefficient than low feet at certain times. There’s no rule saying “always use high feet,” however it’s an important skill to have in your bag o’ tricks :)
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta Hips closer to the wall = less strain on the hands? Definitely in a drop knee, but otherwise generally why would that be true? I’m trying to imagine the physics of it and it seems like it would be harder to suck your hips into the wall than with low feet. Easier to make sure your legs are activated though compared to straight maybe.
Also, I had a feeling that by efficiency you meant number of moves used. Which if you can skip holds the climb is probably inconsequential for you anyway. My gripe with this usage of efficiency is it is not the critical parameter. Having the most energy leftover at the end of the climb should be the mark of efficiency. Because if you watch videos of pros on sport climbs they make a zillion ticky tack foot moves to get their bodies in just the right position.
The easiest example is just to look at the thumbnail. It’s obviously an exaggeration, but it shows the basic point. Hips close to the wall in some situations can allow you to shift more weight directly downwards onto your feet, taking weight off your hands. (And that’s just one example. There are many, many other situations where high feet can be better than low feet or even essential to finishing the climb.) Like I said, there’s no rule that “high feet will always be best.” It’s all situation-based. Same for efficiency; there are many factors involved, which I don’t think anyone is arguing against.
@@HoopersBeta Yup, fair enough. It is totally underrated. I was the weakest beginner I've ever known (even after years of coaching) and perching on high feet whether on toes or heels was a critical part of my smart-not-strong toolbox. I just think a better visual example and more undeniable argument could be made for the usefulness of getting hyphyt. I love the vids, keep them coming.
Agreed! Having the information is one thing; presenting it well is a whole other ball game. Always room for improvement!
-Emile
The segmentation of your videos is unreal, really appreciate it