Top 12 WORST Exercises for Climbers (THAT EVERYONE DOES!)
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- Опубликовано: 3 июн 2024
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// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 116
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/t...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Boxing bell: Benboncan at freesound.org/s/66951/
Shoulder: The Joint Clinic, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Calf muscles: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en via Wikimedia Commons
Kettlebell Swing, Kettlebell Snatch, Deadlift, Bench Press, Single Arm External Rotation, Bicep Curl, Situps, Crunches, High Row, Plank, Behind the Neck Overhead Press, Shoulder Shrug, Tricep Dip, Upright Row
#trainclimbsendrepeat #doctorofphysicaltherapy @AnnaHazelnutt 
Спорт
STILL wondering why the plural of "moose" isn't "mooses"...
NOTE: Use this video as a *guide* NOT a *rulebook*. We shouldn't be dogmatic about any of this stuff; whether or not an exercise is "good" is almost entirely dependent on what you're trying to achieve and your personal strengths and weaknesses.
If you want to see more of Anna check out her RUclips channel and Insta! She has some awesome inspiring videos and happens to be besties with the Wide Boyz.
You mean "meese"? After all the plural of "goose" is "geese".
What about hipthrusts, are those effectice or ineffective for hamstring and posterior chain, would you reccomend romain deadlift over hipthrusts, reguar deadlifts, something else, or just hipthrust.
the plual of moose is moice
Dont climb but knowledge is king.
Thanks for the No.1 exercise as have a crunchy shoulder and this exercise won't be helping. Lots of issues so will follow for info.
For the al gorithem.
I was expecting one of them to be back squats
Well now that you established what to do and not to do. Could you do a workout routine video of the ones we should do? That would be a great follow along video for anyone training.
How about this ruclips.net/video/bEaqJ4Cc1Fo/видео.html
Thank you for all the likes. But seriously would be an awesome video. Thank you for all that you do
They offered alternative excercises after everyone they said not to do...
@@dylankerfoot6027 correct, but what I am saying is to do a follow along instructional video...
@@trigun00365 they offered alternatives, if you need more just look at the muscle groups they’re targeting and do further research
Great to Anna joining you guys for a video. Plus, this was very useful and reinforced my current training exercises. So I’m not doing stupid exercises after all!
I personally love deadlifts. Not because I think they'll make me a better climber, but because they feel good to do. Which is also important! Thank you for compiling this list.
Deadlifts in some capacity are a must imo
Agreed! The enjoyment factor is super important!
The only problem is that deadlifts require a ton of recovery.
@@Mike-oz4cv conventional deadlifts at a high 1rm require a lot of recovery. If your goal is only to climb then you can do trap bar dead’s, sumo, rdls, or other hip hinges like good mornings. Plus deadlift recovery shouldn’t really impede much of your climbing especially if you use straps. If you just do a lower fatigue variations and don’t push too close to failure you’ll still make respectable gains without affecting anything else.
@@Mike-oz4cv recovery shouldn’t be a concern for most climbers unless they’re pulling 400+ pounds, and you can always use a belt for even less recovery demands
Love including Anna as she has such a positive personality and video presence!
the crossover we didn’t know we needed
Great video ! I love that you address the biomechanical issues with these exercises which helps understand why they’re bad for you
jeeeez! upright rows!! this must be the reason why i got constant shoulder problems for a few years. thanks for making this video! i also did a few of those common workouts for general fitness. gonna get rid of them and will include all of your recommendations to my routines. i already notice improvements following the exercises using therabands, etc. zero injuries! thanks also to Anna! shes amazing! followed her already for a while.
I recently injured my fingers so I am going to the gym while rehab and this video is amazing, thank you
Thank you this was very informative!!
I love doing face pulls! Been using those in my warmup routine to get my shoulders ready for a climbing session
Hello friend! Love to hear that :)
Very good video, and useful tips, which I will definitely incorporate. Love the mountain climber plank. I did side arm resistance band work (with a towel between elbow and ribs) as part of a successful shoulder rehab. Doing it on one arm helped to focus the work, as well as doing it in both directions. The secret there was to go as slowly, if not more so, on the return leg.
Great, it seems I've been doing my homework with your videos and gymnastics youtubers so I hadn't incorporated any of those in my training. Great material as always.
All amazingly explained and talked through! Love seeing this content:)
Thank you, Tyler! Appreciate the kind words :)
Thanks for all the beta! I have a nagging shoulder injury, and was wondering if you could do a video on strained deltoids. Not a lot of info out there on them, and I always find your videos helpful. Thanks!
Really dope video. Produced well and to the point.
Two of my favourite channels 😻 big love to all three of you ❤ p.s, inverted rows on rings are lush, I did my three sets yesterday 😎
I partially disagree with the bits about abs. I removed targeted ab training ~1yr ago in favor of a more generic powerlifting style supplementary program. In recent months I’ve noticed that ab/core strength is now a significant blocker in my climbing progression. I’ve started to add some targeted core work back in and have definitely noticed a difference.
Stopping the swing takes abs. Precisely and quickly reestablishing feet takes abs. Abs are an essential part of maintaining a totally solid core which keeps your upper and lower half connected. One of the biggest problems I see at the gym is people letting their bottom half drag them off the wall. Focusing on a tight abs helps prevent that from happening.
Doing hundreds of regular crunches might not be my go to, but more comprehensive targeted ab/core work can be great. Things like windshield wipers, leg raises, and bicycles will directly translate to climbing gains. Abs are a critical part of core and you’d be doing yourself a disservice to ignore them.
I agree with Hooper, my abs have never held me back in climbing. The only move where I consider strong abs necessary is when you have to do an upside crunch from a bat hang/foot jam.
@@BlackSpiderPro Nah, being able to hold stable positions is critical in climbing, and abs are necessary for that. It's never really going to be something you feel if you're deficient the way your grip strength or pulling strength is, which is why its easy to overlook.
Hooper is correct about abs being less of a factor in body tension than other muscle groups though.
I also think it depends on what level you are at.
I can only do 100 seconds of plank. So if the argument is that you don't need to plank more than an hour a week, it doesn't really hold water.
@@16m49x3 it definitely depends on the level you're at. Personally, I've never been held back by my abs, but everyone's different.
Yeah, sad about the lack of climbing specific ab workouts too. Also cuz I don't understand the lingo ad I don't understand the difference between abs and core and what exercises help me achieve that.
Thanks for the cool video ! It was cool seeing Anna on this channel :)
Agreed!
Great video, thanks
Please do another video like this, super informative
Loved the video and Anna is a super nice guest!!❤️ How about facepulls with overhead press, is that even better then normal facepulls or doesn't it add much to the excercise for climbing specific gains?
They are a great option! If you maintain the proper scapular recruitment, you'll get training of the lower traps as well as you press overhead. Win win!
Very good tips.
I love seeing Anna popping up everywhere now
Thanks for these really good ideas! Also huge shoutout to heavy deadlifts!
Thank you! I am just recovering from a subluxation/ SLAP tear and a few of these excercises are done in classic PT. I will swap them now. Hope to get back to bouldering without operation 😢❤
so good video, watched it twice!
A couple of those exercises were in a prescribed (and paid) climbing training program I did some years ago. Thanks for setting this straight since I didn't see climbing gains with the exercises.
New climber and follower of this channel here 🤚🏻. Do you have a good strength regimen for someone transitioning from high impact training such as CrossFit to things more static like climbing? CF was really taking a toll on me so I’ve switched to climbing as my primary focus, and I’m starting to hit a point where supplemental training would be beneficial, but can’t seem to find a good program that maximizes my time spent in the gym. Love the content so far!
Hi!
Question: I do the single arm band pulls to warm up, and I like them because I can pull and push, depending where the anchor point is in relation to my body.
Any idea how I can use bilateral external rotation with scapular retraction to work on the opposite motion? Meaning, the bilateral external rotation with scapular retraction opens the shoulder outwards; what can I do to do something that makes me push it in? I hope I explained this correctly...
Great video, total gold
Thank you!
Great video :) absolutely love the cooperation of the two. Is there already a specific video on how to rehab after a shoulder subluxation? Would love that since it happened to me :(
I'll ask the same questions I asked on the short about inverted rows: Does it make a difference what grip we use (neutral, palms facing away, palms facing towards)? How does it differ from a pullup ito muscle activation? And what is the significance of closed chain vs open chain in rows v pullups?
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Very interesting, thanks!
You got it! 🙏
How many Anna’s are there? She seems to be in every climbing related video at the moment and I’m all for it! But how she finds the time to be everywhere at once is beyond me!
It is rather impressive!
That woman is a ball of energy! Thankfully!!
90% extrovert haha
Smashingly good insight for an amateur climber with too much gym access and not enough knowledge of how to use it wisely!
Glad it was helpful!
This is the RUclips Collab that I never knew I needed.
I speak for both me and my friend Nikken when I say we are PERSONALLY offended to see deadlifts and bench press on the “don’t-do” list. Bro, like.. bro?!?
(*collapses in tears*)
Haha sorry Emil!! I know... deadlifts were definitely hard for me to include! But... with good reason for the points listed ;) And don't worry we definitely were not specifically targeting you and Nikken...
(JK we totally were)
Haha you and Nikken are both strong AF so clearly you've found a way to incorporate them into your training well! Maybe THAT'S the "one simple trick" to climbing V14? 🤔😂
@@EmileModesitt (*me, scripting the next video titled “The ONLY exercise you need to climb V14*)
Sorry what’s that? I couldn’t hear you over the sound of my bro science
I'd watch that... 😉
Thanks, this is very useful. Will try the mountain climbers with bands. And face pulls, never done them. Surprise ending, the upright row was a staple excersise as a gym goer, looks cool with above lighting, luckily I've very dependable shoulders.
One thing I wanted to note: a lot of the resistance band exercises you do can be done with dumbbells as well. In a previous video you (correctly) noted that if you do them standing with dumbbells, they just become delt exercises because the direction of pull is down instead of forward like with the resistance bands. But there's an easy fix for this: face down, using a bench! You can either lie chest down on the bench and do the exercises with dumbbells in each hand, or you can place a hand and knee on the bench, and the other hand on the floor and do the exercise one handed--which one works better depends on the exercise.
I do this bench/dumbbell approach with angels, y's, t's, and w's, and it can work well even with your beloved face pulls! This approach still won't work well with certain resistance band exercises like drawing the sword, however.
Agree with this 100%. Here’s a video by SHIFT Movement Science and Gymnastics that shows how to do them. ruclips.net/video/zTZDNMUz5zI/видео.html I do this routine once or twice a week and it has really helped me with overall shoulder stability, in addition to inverted rows, feet elevated pike push-ups, and ring dips.
Another banger dude, I’ve taken notes.
I just can’t give up my bench press though... yet! I have a once weekly antagonistic push session to keep me balanced and the bench is a key part of that. I also just enjoy the motion, so glad you said it’s okay to do eve. If not ideal
Giving up bench for climbing is like giving up beer for climbing; I get it but it's not going to happen.
If you enjoy it and you don’t feel it holds you back from your goals I say go for it!! :)
As long as you build up to a high working capacity and aren't handicapping your recover (eg low amount of sleep) its fine.
I also don't think rings are necessarily better. Climbing has more overlap with ring dips, which means you are less likely to reach optimal load than with bench, which means you'll end up training push at a lower intensity than pull, which means imbalances. For beginners who don't really train ring dips are going to be better, but for people who are going for optimal strength and training heavily for climbing, bench is arguably better.
Very good video, not trashing each exercise but instead showing better ones for climbing specifically
Thank you!
I’d love a video on how to assess whether ab strength (and/or other components of core strength) are holding back your climbing and exercises you’d recommend to target those weaknesses 😊
[edit for clarity: are there certain compensatory injuries/soreness associated with weakness in all or parts of the abdominal musculature? Particular types of movement that are more difficult if you have weakness in any or all of these muscles? Movement patterns, deviations in form, etc. you could identify in a video of yourself climbing that would point to this weakness (Thinking similarly to the video on identifying scapular dyskinesis/general shoulder weakness)?] Thanks!
it’s not abs are not important for climbing-somebody that had been training abs for a decade
@@sebastian-ez1dj oh yeah, they’re definitely important-the fact that mine have been sore after sessions recently proves as much 😅😂
@@SpookySmurph777 soreness shouldn't be taken as a sign of weakness nor of work! Just that you gave your body a different type of stimulus! Anyway, I would say that there is no upper bound for core strenght in climbing. The more is always better. The question is how strong is your core compared to the other abilities that you have. If you have bigger weaknesses, maybe it's better to spend your time and energies on something different.
@@AllegraClimbingPsychologist thanks for your input! I am asking about abdominal muscles (including transverse and rectos abdominus and internal and external obliques) as discrete from other components of a “strong climber core,” based on the Hooper’s Beta adage that one’s “abs” are rarely the site of weakness and in need of additional training as many of us imagine. My questions are, then, what types of movement *stimulate* those muscle groups? How do I assess whether weakness in these specific muscle groups within the larger “core” framework are an issue? For example, are there certain types of movement that are more difficult; compensatory muscle soreness and even injury one might experience; or visual indicators one could identify in a video that would implicate weakness of the abdominal and oblique muscle groups, in specific? I’m asking because I strongly suspect this is the case for me; however, I have recently seen a lot of conflicting information circulating recently about whether, which components, and how “core,” writ large, should be trained in climbing. Thanks again for your input!
Another hoped-for collab ticked off my list ;) Anna and Jason really hit it off. Thoughtful suggestions were set in scene so gracefully 🤣. PS: Picto-shirt👌
What about bicep curls with the palm facing down (I like to bring the thumb to the same side as the orther fingers too)?
I feel like it is more focused on the upper forearm muscle (not sure the actual name), which I also feel very activated during real climbing
In terms of this type of antagonist strengthening, what is a good frequency? Is once a week sufficient to form a good foundation ?
I totally agree that you should be very aware of why you're doing the big compound movements, like bench and deadlift, but I actually think for the right people they're fantastic. I started doing specifically deadlift and bench press a couple months ago, to focus on strengthening my posterior chain and getting my most underdeveloped muscles in my body (triceps and pecs) up to snuff respectively. Both were incredibly effective, and I saw rapid benefits to both that transferred to my climbing well.
It did take months of consideration and research to come to the conclusion that they were worthwhile for my climbing though, and I'm certain for every person like me who it greatly benefitted there's another 4 or 5 who are doing them for less than optimal reasons. Excellent video overall, certainly a useful piece for people getting into accessory work for climbing, and what to generally look out for.
That’s awesome! I love deadlifts and bench press and definitely would recommend them for some people as there can be significant benefits if it’s the right fit 🤙
I almost expected dumbbell/barbell rows since inverted rows are more mechanically inclined to climbing. Is there a time where those could have their specific benefit?
Facepulls ending with full overhead arm extension for the full-on climbing specific movement! With a plate and cable machine I can only do about 15 or 20 lb of these, they are crazy hard to stabilize
Agree! I love Facepulls with the overhead press :) Adds some great work in for the lower trap.
Nice content ❤
Thank you!
A Hoppers Beta video with ANNA where they constantly recommend JEFF CAVALIER'S favorite exercise (the face pull)? Climbing youtube just peaked and its all downhill from now.
Loved this colab ❤️
That's most kind of you to say, thank you :)
I've spent the last year weight lifting, with two separate plans, and although I have gotten stronger and put on muscle. It also meant quite a bit more weight was added onto my body.
What can I do to get stronger w/o the added bulk?
Eat less
one of the best videos out there coudnt agree more , thats the way to train proper and healthy body its better not only for climbing most of the worst excersises are actually worse than you think
Great video!! Question on this theme: I usually down climb boulders to spare my knees, but is down climbing beneficial (for technique development and muscle engagement) or am I wasting energy? I have read opposing views on this, maybe would be good for you guys to explore in a video? :) Keep up the awesome work.
I wouldn’t worry about down climbing
It's not harmful. But it's not very useful either. Basically, downclimbing is "antagonist climbing" : you'll work muscle groups in opposite regime relatively to what you usually do when you climb. While it may improve stability and overall balance of your posture, that's about it. The technique that you can develop by doing that is...useless to climbing upward, mostly.
Sparing your knees, however, is a good idea. You can do that by downcmibing the first meter of the problem (remember : kinetic energy accumulated by a free fall is not linear to the height, but exponential, so downclimbing the highest meter greatly reduce the impact).
Jeff Cavaliere needs to see this and compliment you on the really good exercise choice. I only nearly spit out my coffee as you mentioned deadlifts, but as you explained i heavily nodded. My lower back is very sore from yesterdays deadlift session and I know for sure today would be a high risk bouldering day, so need to wait another day ;)
Haha :) Yes, it was even hard for me to include them in the list! But I'm glad that you agree with the points we brought up. Great example though! That is definitely affecting your climbing goals today lol.
To an extent I agree, however with the banded rotar cuff, it is better as isolation.
I always use some planking in my warmup, not sure if I should keep doing it or move on to something harder
If you like it, no reason to stop! But the priority for warming up for climbing should generally go to exercises that target more relevant soft tissues (fingers, elbows, rotator cuff, hips, hanstrings, etc), so best to make sure you have those covered.
-Emile
Yo, Jason. There's some research saying face pulls are bad. But I see a slight issue with the study. They used a wooden plank connected to some resistance bands... They kept bashing their nose in...
I know.. it was a REALLY bad joke, but I had to. :D Love your videos. Also. I love Bicep Curls not because it's cool or because of climbing, but because of strength reasons of carrying stuff. :)
First time RDLs today.. and damn does this hit my hamstrings... so much more than regular deadlifts, which I've been doing for a long time. Keep it up :)
Have 2 of them on my training routine 😅 1 arm external rotation and planks...
i know this is a slightly older video but it would be interesting to see a video where you focus on building a foundation for climbers. i am a bit heavier set so sometimes i cant do the exercises that are recomended. right now im just trying to build my foundation and i would totally mess my shoulders up if i did some of the exercises shown to specifically build shoulders.
this is gold
thx
Wait you would consider dips on gymnast's rings to be closed chain? Is there a specific reason why or major significance to this classification?
Modified close chain. A great way to simplify / understand open vs closed is about relative motion of the external force compared to your body. With a closed chain activity (dips, push ups, pull ups, squats) you're body is moving relative to the unchanging position of the force/your extremity. With an open chain activity, your extremity is moving the weight/resistance but your body/trunk remains unchanged. The easiest clarification I like to give is with the pull up vs pull down. Pull up: the hands grab the bar, the body moves relative to the bars position. Pull downs with a cable machine: your hands move the resistance/bar/cable while your body stays in a relatively stationary position. While yes, rings are now more mobile, the relativity remains unchanged. Your body is moving relative to your hands. Hope that makes sense!
Tried face pulls today and I'm a convert! Thanks for the video!
Hello, Friend! :)
Good to know planking doesn't help as much. It indeed costs quite some time every workout. Will also start doing face pulls :D
Hello friend! 🙏
I Bench press and deadlift once a week and probably at much heavier weights than necessary for my climbing goals, but I just really enjoy it. Sometimes loving an exercise can make all the difference, if it wasn't for the fact I was excited to do them I might not train at all. for me, they're at the top of my exercise "to do" list
That makes sense! It's important to do the exercises you love doing :)
I love this video!!! Excellent info with good sense of humor is always a win in my book
Glad you enjoyed it!
I think doing face pull instead of the high row makes it kind of a different exercise, because the weight you can lift is very different, so from mid trap point of view it is not really that good for progress. What do you think? Interesting video!
I think you are correct, this is exactly what I thought. You can use at least twice as much weight for a regular high row, no way the face pull will overload your traps adequately. Shoulders will be the limiting factor
So I was doing high face rows because I thought that was what facepulls are. Thanks for the help!
same!
Glad you caught this video then!
I am surprised that you didn't talk about any of the 500 deadbug variations. Since it's quickly becoming the most recommended core exercise
Superb combination.
💚💛🧡❤️
Awesome video guys! thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
So on brench press, what about regular push ups? I feel like my upper body is super strong (I climb v10, and i can do one arm pull ups), but i notice my chest is just super weak, like I strugle to do 10 regular push ups lol, it's crazy, should i start traning chest, or I don't need it, my focus is only climb, maybe climb v11 now and get stronger overall for bouldering.
It certainly could be worthwhile to train your chest if you feel it’s a significant weakness. You could try incorporating some chest training for a training cycle to see how you respond - you may end up seeing some benefits or you may feel like it’s taking time and energy away from more productive things. Either way it’s useful to know. Push-ups will be pretty limiting since you can’t progress them nearly as easily as bench press, but if that’s your only option there are push-up progressions you could try.
-Emile
I train my legs by biking and my hands and arms while kayaking (and some gardening work) and it works 😁
I'm surprised heavy squats aren't on this list. They're almost as taxing as deadlifts and not as good for the posterior chain. I'm glad they aren't but I'm not sure why especially when bench press made the list
A good one to add for similar reasons! Thanks for sharing 🙏
How about regular barbell overhead press? I understand that dumbbell OHP or the arnold press variation are generally better options since they incorporate more stability work into the exercise, but why compare them against the behind-the-back barbell variation that you rarely see being performed at a climbing gym anyway? I only ask because the OHP is my favorite exercise lol.
That variation is certainly better! I don't think you *have* to change it to the Arnold press if you love the dumbbell OHP! But, you could incorporate the Arnold Press into your routine for variety, or just put each one in a different phase of training.
Liked and subscribed because of the intro 👍
Thank you! Hah yeah that one was fun :) great editing and creativity by Emile!
Do you think ‘close grip’ benchpress is a better alternative? It makes my triceps work harder and I still get to do my fav. exercise
It certainly would work the triceps more which may be more beneficial but the most important part is that you said it's one of your favorite exercises. That's an important factor to consider!
A note on compound lifts (Squat/bench/deadlift/OHP): It's also your central nervous system that fatigues, not just your muscles and back. You might not perceive it, but these lifts (deadlifts especially) actually interfere with the synaptic potential of the nerves in your muscles, lowering their strength potential. Lots of additional chemistry at work, but carbs and caffeine can help to alleviate if you program these!
This is only temporary right? If I do deadlifts on non-climbing days, will my climbing strength be affected?
@@cynicallemon6948 basically your CNS needs time to recover too. so dont be discouraged you have a bad climbing session the day after a deadlift session. so yes, temporary.
Is normal shoulder press okay? I’ve been doing 3 sets of 5 rep with last set to failure after my climbing workouts
Do you like it?
It took me way too long to get that pictogram shirt, but that's a really good one! 😂
Haha thanks! Yeah those shirts are fun.
Just curious as to why you opted to suggest the Arnold Press instead of just doing a normal strict overhead press as the alternative to a behind the head press? I'd have thought it would be much easier to achieve progressive overload with a barbell as the rotation of an Arnold Press would potentially awkward as the weight gets much heavier?
I think their logic is that using the dumbbells and adding the rotation bring in a shoulder stability component that a barbell doesn't provide since it can be adjust through more planes of motion
I think Caleb added a great note! I would add that, especially for climbers, progressing the stability component would be much more beneficial than solely progressing the weight.
Most people just need to be ‘strong enough’ as well, so using a barbell to progressively overload is unnecessary IMO.
Definitely an interesting discussion, although I'm not 100% sure I'd agree. At the moment you rotate it doesn't have any effect on the load as the weight at that point is directly above the joint. The stabilisation of the movement and subsequent load on the muscles wouldn't change? Wrist rotation doesn't have a bearing on the mechanics of your delts pressing up. I can see the argument for stabilising being a bigger priority than progressive overload but the difference in weight moving from dumbbells to barbell would be huge that one might expect the stabilisation from controlling the heavier weight to be sufficient, with the additional benefit of strength gains
@@michaelgaston9567 Like someone else commented, I prefer dumbells because your weaker side will not be helped by your stronger side, so stability and unilateral development are simultaneous wins. As for the rotation of an Arnold press I’m not really sure either tbh, I have an inkling we’re talking about a minor difference in gains and/or stability. IMO the best thing is to just include some sensible overhead pressing for general health reasons
- No 11: I actually would prefer KB swings to Dl because they're easier to perform and many still benefit! Best leg work I found is all kind of lunges, split squats
- Bench can be used for general upper body strength with very weak climbers who just started out. Because of the fixed shoulder blades it doesn't translate to the sport very well though
- would't recommend the Arnold Press!! Many people's shoulders don't tolerate the rotation (over time).. strict dumbbell press is enough
Thanks for the share / comment! In that case, might I offer the modified Arnold press which essentially moves into the conventional dumbbell press but encourages better mid/low trap recruitment? :) (or just good coaching to make sure the conventional press is done with proper form)
I'm never going to stop shrugging !!!! Trap bar deadlifts and then shrugs for juicy traps are too fun! I even shrug when I'm holding pinch blocks for time!
Going to do a lot more face pulls and inverted rows tho
💪💪 get after it!!
Power cleans are back on the menu boys!
Did the last 18months weighted Dips instead of bench press. Started to do bench press again and for some reason that works so much better for me, also in terms of climbing. Could imagine it's the same with deadlifts (but I hate them... ^^). But maybe that just plays a role if body weight exercise are too easy (+20 reps) or it's just me
I’m confused about the plank being in this list because of your other video “Beginner core training for climbers” where plank is the base for almost all of the workouts there. What am I missing?
Great question! Planks with appropriate progressions can have a much larger/more significant benefit than just a standard plank (hence, the progressions in those videos). When it comes to approachability, they are hard to beat (which makes them great for newer climbers), but there can be better exercises for more advanced climbers.
Just tried face pulls for the first time and yeah FairPlay, i see why you can’t shut up about them. Felt a great burn. Will see if I see an improvement bin a few weeks
great content, thanks a lot!
Our pleasure!
wish i saw this a week earlier... i literally started getting shoulder pain doing a new workout routine for my arms and wondered why??? what did I do??? It was the UPRIGHT ROWS!!! AAAH! Thank you so much for the video, I now know why my shoulder rotator hurts so much :(
Oh dang! Well better late than never! I hope your shoulder starts to feel better!
I don't know if this is part of your content, but how about a video about callouses? It's one of my pet peeves of climbing... Hurting hands. After every session they feel like the very first time climbing.
Almost all of this exercises are for advanced people. Could you also make a video for beginners with modifications on thise exercises?
Up rigth row if done with wide grip or with dumbels does not damage the sholder. But yeh for climbing is not super important.
What about squats or some kind of jump explosions. It shold be good for big dynos
Jason deserves an Oscar for the acting in this one 😂. And yeah, you got me on some of these. But now I know what to do thanks to Anna!
Haha the years of practice are paying off finally! 😅🙏
Is there any cardio you'd recommend for climbers? If so, what?
I would only recommend it if it fit your goals and is enjoyable. In fact, we have a full length video on "shoulder climbers run" that may help answer some of those questions :)
I did power lifting before I started climbing. Pretty much everyone I know from power lifting who started working the behind-the-head overhead press has stopped due to shoulder impingement within a few weeks. I definitely agree that's a terrible exercise--I'd even put it up there on the same level as your #1.
With forward rows, again, I agree that's a bad exercise, but I was hoping that for your alternative you'd suggest Pendlay rows (see here ruclips.net/video/kmFx0tti3ds/видео.html for a pretty good example). The one thing they don't focus on enough in that video is that the back should be horizontal--this moves the work into the lower traps, lats, and a bunch of scapular stabilizers. The bar should touch the bottom of the chest every rep or it doesn't count.
Pendlay rows are hugely useful: I find it's kinder to my elbows than pull-ups if I'm having a flare up of elbow tendinosis (which I am prone to occasionally) but works many of the same muscles. Some people also say it bothers their shoulders less than overhead exercises. It also hits many of the same posterior chain muscles as the deadlift, and mimics the motion of pulling yourself into the wall either to get over your feet more on vert/slab, or up on overhangs. For climbers who can't do a pull-up yet, this can be a great alternative because you can start with much lower weight.
Competitive powerlifter and bjj guy here. Excellent set of exercises. I would mirror almost all of it.
Only thing I would do differently is keep deadlifts. It's not necessary of course for climbers, but it does prove a solid foundation for grip strength as well as core strength.
Upright rows are an exercise I do to warm up the rotator cuff and open the subacromial space for my tight shoulders just before doing squats.
I will typically superset light weight upright rows and facepulls in the squat rack for about 3 sets, starting squats with 3 sets of front squats.
However, I'm not a climber, so I can see how you wouldn't need to do that.
Great share! I appreciate the insight with your routine and your approach! Glad you've found a good routine/warm up that is working well for you :)
How long has Anna been climbing? I never knew she was actually a professional climber until now
What everyone does? Most climbers I meet absolutely detest the idea of lifting weights because they find it "boring".