I kind of discovered the heel body positioning thing a couple months ago on a tough heel hook move, and it makes a world of difference! You explained it perfectly
Another awesome video. Tom, I love how technical you are! Bringing science and theory to the subject of climbing. Great content, wonderful channel! All the best Michael Omo-Bare
Really nice video! Even though I don't consider myself a beginner, I found this foot technique explanation very useful for my own technique, especially using the tiny rubber edge of climbing shoe heel. Would love to see also a video on spotting opportunities for heel and toe hooks during climbing.
Thank you. My wife and I just started climbing. We want to learn more about technique and form in order to set ourselves up for our climbing journey! This was VERY helpful for us. We’ll be back on the wall soon to try these out.
Nice video Tom. Having climbed on Southern Sandstone for over 25 years this set of techniques is like a masterclass in how to get up the climbs at our local crags.
This was so super helpful! I just started climbing and I tend to place my foot where it's comfortable. This is gonna really help me progress. I now know better! Thank you
The intermediate version of this vid will be useful for those trying to get more out of heel hooks. Outdoors I find I heel hook on flat horizontal-ish surfaces a lot more than vertical ones and thus use more of the outside side of the heel with my hips super open. I see many people can't get much out of these types of heel hooks because they're using the direct back of the heel and can't really crank effectively. I think this was the perfect subject matter for beginners and I'm looking forward to the next one.
Today I sent my first black tape boulder (which is just the middle grade of 9 colour grades at my gym, sadly) and actually did use a heel hook on a small hold which made it much easier for me! I don't think I could've done it without that because I really lack arm, shoulder and back strength. Luckily this works wonders for my technique which has been above average since the beginning. Working on it!
I haven't been able to go climbing in about 3 months now (because of Lockdown, and there's no outside climbing opportunities where I live), but I'll keep these in mind when the gym opnes again (soon hopefully)
Great explanation - thank you! Could you do a video where you explain how to spot heel- and toehooks? I struggle with this a lot. That would be very helpful, don't know though if it is also necessary for others or if it's just me struggling... 😒
I'd love the video on this too. I love using heel hooks when I see the opportunity but I'm curious if I can improve that. And toe hooks is quite a new thing for me. Would love to learn how to apply these more.
Thanks for the effort on these videos. I love the comprehensive nature of the information. Keep em coming. (The wide boys channel has upped my crack game and also rocks!)
Fantastic video.. It would be great if you could group these tutorials together on your channel page. Also do you plan to do more? For.instance hand/finger/thumb placement? Really appreciate the video, clear, informative and useful.
@@LatticeTraining thanx! I recently tried the Lyra (l'm looking for a bit softer shoe), but i found them extremly narrow in the front foot. A couple of weeks before i already tried the Up Rise, and found them even narrower. Unfortunately I don't think the Unparallel fit is suitable for my wider feet, although I love their simple but cool design...
Imagine the outrage in the climbing community if some young unknown mofo comes out of nowhere, sends both Silcence and Bibliografie and downgrades them to 9B+ or something. That would be really hilarious af.
What is the physics behind putting as much rubber area on the wall as possible when smearing? When reality is removed from physics, in an introductory mechanics class you learn that the friction force is only proportional to the normal force and coefficient of friction, neither of which change if you have a large or small area of the shoe rubber contracting the wall. How do you reconcile this with the reality that more rubber = more friction? Until now my thought has been that more rubber contact = less pressure = rubber won't break = you won't slip.
Won't be long until shoemakers start to add more features that you can "cheat" with. In fact modern shoes definitely give you an advantage compared to what shoes used to be. I kind of hope that barefoot climbing becomes more of a thing in the future. As ridiculous as it seems initially.
Yeah. That gave me the idea. I have the impression that most people consider Charles Albert a bit of a strange character because of the barefoot thing. Which is strange since climbers tend to be quite purists in many topics like dabbing or on-sighting for example. Same thing is actually escalating in long distance running at the moment with the "trampoline" shoes...
Do you find the mechanics of smears and edges to be too different? I find I want to press the “power point” in and then get as much rubber contact as possible, with my forefoot being flexed and my heel being raised relative to the angle of the hold, for instance if you had rotated the volume then the heel would end in a raised position.
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Been climbing for 5 years now and still found this very interesting and helpful!
6 months and so did I!
2.6 years. I liked it
Every climbing video tells you to use your legs but they never show you foot and heel placement. This video is gold.
I kind of discovered the heel body positioning thing a couple months ago on a tough heel hook move, and it makes a world of difference! You explained it perfectly
Once you nail it, it makes so much sense eh?!
Another awesome video. Tom, I love how technical you are!
Bringing science and theory to the subject of climbing. Great content, wonderful channel!
All the best
Michael Omo-Bare
Thanks Michael :-)
Really nice video! Even though I don't consider myself a beginner, I found this foot technique explanation very useful for my own technique, especially using the tiny rubber edge of climbing shoe heel. Would love to see also a video on spotting opportunities for heel and toe hooks during climbing.
Thank you. My wife and I just started climbing. We want to learn more about technique and form in order to set ourselves up for our climbing journey! This was VERY helpful for us. We’ll be back on the wall soon to try these out.
Nice video Tom. Having climbed on Southern Sandstone for over 25 years this set of techniques is like a masterclass in how to get up the climbs at our local crags.
Thanks! One of the best footwork videos I ever watched!
Love the videos! My new favorite climbing channel
Thanks! You've got plenty of back library to watch now :-D
And dont forget to check out the Wide Boyz
With Tom you really see he knows his stuff backwards. Great to have him here as a coach!
I've been trying some harder bouldering problems and found the heel hooks difficult. I found this video very informative. Thank you.
This is very helpful, thanks. Just started climbing a few months ago. Your video will certainly help correct some bad techniques I didn't know I had.
Super useful! Thanks for sharing!
This was so super helpful! I just started climbing and I tend to place my foot where it's comfortable. This is gonna really help me progress. I now know better! Thank you
I'm beginner now and it was the best explanation I ever seen!
Excellent
The intermediate version of this vid will be useful for those trying to get more out of heel hooks. Outdoors I find I heel hook on flat horizontal-ish surfaces a lot more than vertical ones and thus use more of the outside side of the heel with my hips super open. I see many people can't get much out of these types of heel hooks because they're using the direct back of the heel and can't really crank effectively. I think this was the perfect subject matter for beginners and I'm looking forward to the next one.
We just released it!! 💪💪
amazing video will work harder on my footwork because of this vid!! You got my sub!
Super useful, thank you so much, so useful for intermediate climbers
Today I sent my first black tape boulder (which is just the middle grade of 9 colour grades at my gym, sadly) and actually did use a heel hook on a small hold which made it much easier for me! I don't think I could've done it without that because I really lack arm, shoulder and back strength. Luckily this works wonders for my technique which has been above average since the beginning. Working on it!
Lol, so me with slipping off. I'm getting better. Good video!
Love the videos you have some of the best beginner climbing tips
I haven't been able to go climbing in about 3 months now (because of Lockdown, and there's no outside climbing opportunities where I live), but I'll keep these in mind when the gym opnes again (soon hopefully)
This is great, I've only been climbing a few months, but most videos repeat the same info, a lot of new tips in this one though! thank you
This was incredibly useful as a beginner. Thank you so much!!
Great video! Will keep these in mond next time I'm at the wall!
so good video and explian clear into details!!!!
Very helpful, thank you for sharing! I try to do a footwork drill , particularly on traverses, every session I go.
Great stuff. Keep at it! Life of learning... :-)
Excellent tutorial with clear explanations
This was incredibly helpful and also perfectly explained, well done!
Great explanation - thank you!
Could you do a video where you explain how to spot heel- and toehooks? I struggle with this a lot. That would be very helpful, don't know though if it is also necessary for others or if it's just me struggling... 😒
I'd love the video on this too. I love using heel hooks when I see the opportunity but I'm curious if I can improve that. And toe hooks is quite a new thing for me. Would love to learn how to apply these more.
I'm a beginner and also struggle with knowing when to heel or toe hook.
Thanks for PowerPoint tips
Amazing and great quality video.
Thanks :D
Great video for this beginner, thanks!
great video - will try out the tip for the heel!
5:50 do you also push with the toe? Or do you just leave it there with weight
Thanks for the effort on these videos. I love the comprehensive nature of the information. Keep em coming. (The wide boys channel has upped my crack game and also rocks!)
Cz sweet deal!!
Loove your videos! Thanks bro!
Extremely good video!
Brilliant and informative video. Thank you.
Thanks for the lesson
Helpful thank you!
Super informative, thank you!
Thank you
Thank you! 😁
Really helpful video!
Fantastic video.. It would be great if you could group these tutorials together on your channel page. Also do you plan to do more? For.instance hand/finger/thumb placement? Really appreciate the video, clear, informative and useful.
well explained!
by the way: which unparallel model is the blue one that you are wearing? Thanx
TN Pro. The Blue one was 2021 model.
@@LatticeTraining
thanx! I recently tried the Lyra (l'm looking for a bit softer shoe), but i found them extremly narrow in the front foot. A couple of weeks before i already tried the Up Rise, and found them even narrower. Unfortunately I don't think the Unparallel fit is suitable for my wider feet, although I love their simple but cool design...
Fantastic!
Great video!
I hurt myself climbing in the gym, have to rest for a week. If I can’t train my body, might as well train my mind!
The audio for this entire video has great potential.
Great! Thank you
Last time I was this early. Silence was the only 9c....
Imagine the outrage in the climbing community if some young unknown mofo comes out of nowhere, sends both Silcence and Bibliografie and downgrades them to 9B+ or something. That would be really hilarious af.
@@5upl1an That'd be pretty sus tbh
@@5upl1an you mean DNA not bibliography
Great!
Is there a link for the intermediary foot technique video? :)
Ah it's out this weekend! Hope you can wait!!! :-D
@@LatticeTraining i will try to pace (pun intended) myself!
Do you have a link for that intermediate footwork or is it an upcoming video
Jacob Eccles it’ll be out on Sunday most likely!
Nice vid, are you guys going to talk about "smedging" in the intermediate vid?
Good suggestion.. we’ll try and do at a later date
What is the physics behind putting as much rubber area on the wall as possible when smearing?
When reality is removed from physics, in an introductory mechanics class you learn that the friction force is only proportional to the normal force and coefficient of friction, neither of which change if you have a large or small area of the shoe rubber contracting the wall.
How do you reconcile this with the reality that more rubber = more friction?
Until now my thought has been that more rubber contact = less pressure = rubber won't break = you won't slip.
good catch, friction is independent of contact area. I think you're last point is a solid explanation
The assumption in that friction model is that the two surfaces are flat, parallel and rigid. The rubber in the shoes deliberately deflects.
@@amandaklapp1171 hey Amanda, would you also agree then that the effect of the deflection is that the coefficient of friction also increases?
Some spots might be more slippery while other spots might grab a bit better (ie localized higher coefficient).
Lol as a climber of some years these beginner mistakes like using the heel on that edge at 8:02 even seem a bit funny to me xd
Could bad footwork be a factor in getting holes in my climbing shoes? It's an expensive problem I'll need to work on.
Yup can have a massive effect on this!!!
taking notes here...
Won't be long until shoemakers start to add more features that you can "cheat" with. In fact modern shoes definitely give you an advantage compared to what shoes used to be. I kind of hope that barefoot climbing becomes more of a thing in the future. As ridiculous as it seems initially.
It's a good point... have you seen the guy who boulders in Font at the very highest grade in barefoot? He contends that he's got the advantage!!
Yeah. That gave me the idea. I have the impression that most people consider Charles Albert a bit of a strange character because of the barefoot thing. Which is strange since climbers tend to be quite purists in many topics like dabbing or on-sighting for example.
Same thing is actually escalating in long distance running at the moment with the "trampoline" shoes...
Do you find the mechanics of smears and edges to be too different? I find I want to press the “power point” in and then get as much rubber contact as possible, with my forefoot being flexed and my heel being raised relative to the angle of the hold, for instance if you had rotated the volume then the heel would end in a raised position.
is tom sponsored by unparalleled shoes now? if so im curious which shoes he uses for crack climbing
@@ClimbersCrag they are supposed to resemble the older fiveten models aren't they? I love the looks of the shoes.
@@ClimbersCrag please help to distribute UP to Germany if you can. Nearly no retailers here. Would love to try them. 💪
We don’t deserve Tom.
Awesome video but Tom!!! You need to eat!!!
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