How To Progress Faster As A Boulderer - Simple Training Session
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2024
- For any new boulderer looking to progress, this video is a must watch! This video, a simple follow-along climbing session, shows how applying 4 easy concepts to your typical climbing session can catapult you from a beginner to an advanced boulderer. Follow these concepts and you'll progress WAY faster.
From start to finish, this session covers the basics of skill training 🧗♀️ and strength training 🏋️♀️. But not in an overly prescriptive way. We give you the concepts and examples but it can be modified for any beginner if they want to put a personal spin on things.
To summarise here, we describe;
1. What NOT to neglect in your warm-up 🔥
2. How to LEARN new skills without boring drills 🧗♀️
3. What climbing session pay off and WHY 💸
4. How to build a HEALTHY body off the wall 🏋️♀️
If you are looking to go one step further, for personalised plans, check out our website - latticetraining.com/product/b...
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My routine
1. NO warmup
2. Only limit bouldering, try to pull harder than last time
A common routine this one 😅
@@LatticeTrainingujjjjjjn un nn n nnnnnnnn nos non nnnn no es nnnn nnnn n nnnn nnnnnnnn nnnnnnnn nnnn nnnn no nnnn no nnnn no nn nnnn nnnnnnnn nos n nnnnnnnn nnnnn nnn nnnnn nnnnnnnn nnnnnnnn nnnn nnnnnnnn nnnn nnnn no nnnnnnnn nnnn nnnnnnnn nnnnnnnnnninnnin no n n nn nnnnnnnn nnnnnnnn nnnnnnnnnninnnin nnnnnnnn nos n nnnn nnnnnnnnnninnnin na mas nnnnnnnn nnnnnnnn
omae wa mou shindeiru
Your routine got me to V8 in six months so in my experience it works 🤷♂️
@@ironmooss1946From V1 ?? That looks like an incredible progression !
This is wonderful advice but nobody should be anxious to get to V6 in a hurry. Ignore the feckn grades and make it all about learning new ways of moving - especially smoother, easier ways of moving.
Love it, already enjoy most of these in my warm-up. When doing the "butterfly" I like to also then from sitting rotate one knee in at 90 degrees and then rock the knees over from side-to side; gets the internal rotation of the hips ready for drop knees.
I'm still doing the level 4 Home workout you guys uploaded 2 years ago regularly 1-2 times per week. This video helps me to structure my sessions in the gym as well.
I feel like having structure in your training at the gym, but also off the wall, is key.
Thanks for the great content!
Love this video! My bouldering sessions are way too social for me to structure them this perfectly though (especially the middle sections haha)
Enjoyed watching this video, which covers many aspects of gym training and climbing. Well done
Im around V3 right now, so this is perfect!
Amazing video with some advice which remains forever applicable
top quality video. Love it! Thank you!
Been watching out for a video like this from you guys. Thank you for the consistently high quality content 🙏
Thanks Elliot!
my warmup routine;
1. 30 minutes of yoga before i goto the gym
2. squeeze on a stress ball for 3-5 seconds 20 times on each hand
3. complete all boulders below my grade before i attemtpt my normal set.
i've not tried the fingerboard yet, but i'll be sure to add it.
Very helpful video!
Some cues for beginners with the deadlift would have been very good here :) Like
1. Proper breathing & bracing
2. No excessive arching of the back forward or backward (neutral spine)
3. Engaging the lats before lifting
Great video, I learned a lot
Loved this video! Please do a video in this style (structure of a climbing session with specific recommendations) for stronger climbers. Maybe a V7 and up video.
I currently boulder outdoors around the V9-V10 range and I still have no idea what I'm doing in my climbing sessions.
Everybody could improve their climbing 😅
Thanks Jack! I'll think about an advanced structure video. It's harder to give common advise at the level increases because recommendations get more specific to the individual. But there will be some common rules that apply.
@@LatticeTrainingthis would be super!! I’m currently in that v6-v7 transition and a video on the differences from beginner routines to more advanced ones would be awesome (if there are differences at all)
Great video! Just curious whether the static warm-up stretches would be better served with dynamic ones? I thought static stretches may decrease strength
They don't. The study that did looked at this observed the strength immediately after stretching. If you just wait 5 min, there is no difference in strength output. And if you stretch first and then warm up your fingers you are fine
Excellent video! Thank you so much! Took many notes! I've been bouldering for about 3 months and I am climbing V2+, trying to push to V3s. However, my climbing gym is tiny, and at any given time we only have about 4 to 6 boulders at the level of V0-V2. In that case, how should I do the Boulder Mileage kind of session that you suggested? How can I do 20 boulders if I only have 4 flashable boulders in the gym at any time?
Thanks! If you are really limited by the number of climbs you have it can really help to get creative and make up your own problems that link any holds or sections of climbs together. It is good to do this with friends. A common game is "+1", where you take turns to add one new hold unit you've created a new climb/challenge out of what already exist on the wall.
can you make a video for V6-V10!!! great content, we need something for the mid tier climbers!
Mid tier would be around V4-V6, climbing a V10 is pretty advanced
Okay so I’ve been stuck in the seated straddle position for days now. Any tips on getting out of it?
Hi, do you mind sharing the brand of your pants? They look so comfy! Thank you :)
I have a pull up bar cant I just use that for training with like 3 fingers etc should work fine too right?
After a bad injury and surgery I'm basically back to zero strength wise. So I'm trying to use these beginner training tips. Being extremely weak while having still good-ish technique feels it's somehow harder to build strength?
Awesome content. Could you make a similar for bouldering V6-V11? A lot of people would appreciate I believe!
Thanks! Had a similar comment to this. I'll have a think about it :)
@@LatticeTraining Awsome, thanks for the reply
super close to my first v5 in just over 3 weeks of bouldering and this'll be a big help 😃
burger andy
For as long as I can remember (not from overuse), my left hip always felt pain in the joint when doing a straddle or splits-esque stretching. Any suggestions for reducing this pain? I don't want to hurt something, of course. The pain makes it much more difficult for me to comfortably make such positions, and it sometimes limits my climbing.
Worth asking a physio/PT about this. You want to rule out a machinal issue such as FAI or labarum tear.
Any chance of a review of those Unparallel Qubits seen as you've sneaked an early pair? 😅 how do they compare to the TN Pros width wise?
Similar fit, but more roomy in the heel. Very stiff toe, so performs really well on edges. Not great for smearing which is also why I had a hard time on the comp slab 😅
@@LatticeTraining thanks! Gutted, I've been hoping for wider toed unparallels for some time. Their small heels fit me so well (better than all other brands), but the toeboxes are all just too narrow.
would love this vid for v8-11 boulders as well. gr8 vid
V8-V11 😳 i dont know man, if you climb at that level i dont think youtube videos are helping much to be honest haha
@@Andre-lv9bsthere are some channels that help with those grades but are usually micro beta for specific problems. One good channel would be Hoopers beta
@@Andre-lv9bs lol.
I’m just getting 9s on the tension board now but vids have still been helping for designing training cycles so far 🤷
I learned a lot from the shoulder stability workouts they have been posting
Nice dude! Going strooong 🔥🔥🔥
Well then i take back what i said.... im glad to hear videos are helping you forward in your climbing. Keep up the good work.
Thought this was a really good video. Even as a V7 climber I think I had plenty to take away from it.
However, I'm sceptical of the advice to warm up fingers on a 20mm half crimp. I do this (as I said, as a V7 climber) but is it really right for beginner climbers? If you look at the problems they'll be doing at V0-V3, there aren't any 20mm edges! I would think that the top jug of the board you used would be a more suitable warm up for beginner climbers.
It's good to questions this! Like you say, it does not seem that specific to climbing on jugs/large profile holds. However the intension is to apply controlled load to the finger flexors and flexor pulleys of the hand. The half crimp does this better than hanging from a bar/jug where the grip is more passive and pulleys supported by the hold itself. The grip is not specific to V0-V3 climbs but rather specific to the aims of muscles and tendon loading at this early stage. The intensity can be very low and controlled and so is perfectly safe. If this becomes a habit, when the climber progresses to V4-V5 and will undoubtably be climbing on crimps, they'll have a solid foundation of loading in this position which is a secondary benefit. Also we say 20-30mm is fine. Smaller hands work well on 20mm but I have advanced climbers still training on 30mm because they have big hands. The anatomy dictates the size of edge, not necessarily strength or training history.
@@LatticeTraining really interesting, thanks for taking the time to reply!
Is the Boulder Mileage version you prescribed supposed to be an 'easier' version of the one that currently exists in the Crimpd App? The latter doesn't have as much rest built into it.
Probably as it is aimed at beginners. All excercises can be adjusted with the rules of progressive overload or regressed. Time under tension, intensity and rest can be all adjusted.
I have a couple of problems with the "warm up". Studies have shown that static stretches actually impair athletic performance. What you should be doing are dynamic stretches to warm up, eg leg swings. Preferably whatever motion imitates what you'll be doing. Also, static stretches should be done after you are already warm; this decreases chances of injury. It's generally recommended to do static stretches at the end of a work out, when you're already warm and the muscles/tendons/ligaments are more relaxed. This will also increase your "gains" in stretching.
Yes to warming up muscles before stretching AND doing more intense and longer stretches after climbing for long term gains. We can agree on that front. BUT stretching in a warm-up is still helpful for athletic performance in a number of contexts. The "impairments" are overstated and the research outdated. I made a video on that here -> ruclips.net/video/t0Wyo1nvV8s/видео.htmlsi=cXyrsDe4CRftzz65
I can only consistently get to the climbing gym twice a week. Would a good split be Day 1: climbing miles with a pull and hinge centric weight session afterwards; and Day 2: limit climbing with push and squat centric weight session afterwards? And then a third day of technique centric climbing if I can fit it in?
Yeah this sounds like a really good split! I like the optional 3rd session too. This is how we commonly programme in our training plans because we work with lots of busy climbers.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply. I’ll start being more intentional about my sessions and hopefully I can get over this V4/5 block
A question about doing stretching when warming up: A lot of people around me claim that it increases risk of injury when you stretch before your session, is this true? Thanks for the great video's!
I was just about to ask the same question! I've always avoided deep stretches like these based on those claims for fear of causing weakness or injury when climbing. Maybe that advice is more relevant to more high impact activities running or weightlifting though? Id be interested to hear Lattice's take.
oh my god no!! it reduces your chances of pulling any muscles, + if you target a weak point, for example shoulders, you can GREATLY reduce risk…
I worry about a slightly different problem: doing static stretches before my connective tissue is properly warmed-up. I prefer to keep my warm-up stretching light and do some longer stretches afterwards but I think the newer academic evidence is that stretching before training doesn't do any harm, hopefully Lattice can give us the low-down.
I think the general consensus is to do dynamic stretches before climbing and static stretches after. I've always done this and most people I see at my climbing gym do the same.
@@simonrobbins815im a bit the same, I've strained groin muscles in the Cossack, straddle and butterfly before so I'm particularly scared of doing these when too cold.
As a former powerlifter, I might be a bit nitpicky, but at 19:29 your dl technique is great, BUT.. I would try to get those knee way back and hips higher. Now your starting position is a bit uncomfortable and you have to elevate your hips first to get the knees out of the way to start the movement. Ideally you would start at the same position when the bar breaks the floor. Now it looks too much like I squat, and less like a hip hinge.
Anyway, great video. warm up, flexibility, basic climbing, projecting, some general strength training. This is pretty much what I do. Just more focus on finger strength.
Haha thanks. I do agree. It was the first time I'd deadlifted in over a year and with no warm-up. I do think if I added more weight my form would have changed a bit, its hard to lift like normal with such a light weight sometimes.
@@LatticeTraining is there a specific reason why you start with the lowest weight exercise and progress up to deadlifts? I'd have thought to start with the most taxing (which for most people would arguably be the DL) and then move to the "easier" exercises.
Having recently gotten into bouldering this was a treasure trove of information. Thank you!
@@Tarabulus Yeah good point. We always suggest starting with the heaviest and largest compound movements then progress to more isolated supplementary exercises. So yeah, deadlifts first. This was simply the way we edited the video but in hindsight we should have edited the other way around to be clear.
@@LatticeTraining cheers
hey, about shoulder warm ups:
i warm up my shoulders pretty casually, big to small circles and stuff like that but when i start climbing easy boulders, i still often get some weird pain as soon as i deload my shoulders by standing up. do you have any idea what that is and how i could prevent it?
thanks for everything you guys do!
I would not be able to confidently say, especially over comments. I definitely recommend seeing a physio/PT for diagnosing pain when climbing. It's much better to catch these things early and prevent them from getting worse.
As a boulder, i am a rock.
Due to my schedule, I have like 5 to 10 minutes to warm-up (cardio not included, I run to my climbing gym) and only 45 minutes of climbing (my boss needs me after that). I do spend time on skill practice, first the easy routes to master then the challenging ones. The problem comes here, I have 25 minutes left for the "real climbing session". So I only do projects, never mileage. Worst than this, I NEVER train strength. My core sucks, I can't pull-up, not even push-up properly. I wonder if it exists some specific advice for short sessions? I know there is no shortcut, it will take more time, but I don't know how to manage my 55 minutes to include everything here.
I'm not a trainer or anything but I would recommend having multiple "specialised" sessions every week. For example if you climb 3 times a week spend 1 session only working on mileage/endurance, 1 session only doing hard climbing/projecting and 1 session doing strength training. I think this would be a better approach then trying to squeeze everything into every session.
@@jackvermaak9800 I go 5 times a week before work and that's the thing, I don't know how to manage which training should go where during the week. :/
A couple simple tips that might help; 1. Stretch at home in the evening or when convenient. 2. Save the off-the-wall strength stuff for at home. Likely better this way if you are working on the pull-up/press-up because you'll want to be fresh and focused. 3. Alternate between a project or mileage focus depending on how you feel on the day. Lots of energy? Project!... not feeling so fresh? Mileage.
Im in a bit of a pickle finger training wise and can't decide what to do. Naturally with my finger lengths, when i grab a half crimp. My 2 middles crimp, but my index finger is the exact length that it is in a drag still. If i try to crimp the index, it fails horribly. So i have accidentally never trained my index crimps and they are desperately behind. Does it even matter? In full crimp it get the thumb assistance. I guess it couldnt hurt to train it but like, maybe its actually better the natural way for me. Thats kinda how chris sharma holds his fingers too.
If you're worried about it, do some front two, back two training.
@TheTonVeron that's a good idea. I'm more interested in if YOU are worried about it hahaha. I could feasibly always use this hybrid grip, but since I'm not an expert I'd like to hear others opinions. Would it be better in the long run to just step back and train the undex to crimp? Why? Or better to follow my biomechanics and use the hybrid? These are the opinions I'd like to hear from people.
Everyone's hands are different. For me, my pinky is always in a drag position and really doesn't get much pull at all, which is why my 3 finger drag is almost on par with my half crimp. If i try to pull my pink into a full 90 degree angle, I get the same position as your hands which feels worse to me. I'd say just stick with it and find your most comfortable grip position. if your index is straight, leave it be. Chris sharma's pinky is fully extended in the drag position even when full crimping, check out some videos and watch his hands.
I'd love to see a video for "older" climbers. E.g. is the hangboard even safe after a certain age?
I'm 62. Hangboards are awesome for oldies if you keep your feet on the floor and use them as a warmup tool, exactly as this video shows. Not so good if you are using them the way people usually do. Do deadlifts for general grip strength and work your crimp strength on the wall.
@@billking8843 Thanks! Can you expand on that last one - about crimp strength?
@@sdaiwepm The short answer is older climbers need to avoid being too focused on building crimp strength and be as sparing as possible with how often they do crimps. I had achy fingers all winter, even though I don't have much arthritis in my hands. Climbing through winter was all about getting enough rest and recovery between sessions. Don't tire your fingers too much on the hang board and then leave them sore so that doing crimps on the problems you are working becomes really uncomfortable.
If you see problems with lots of crimps but also with good feet so you won't find yourself having to hang all your weight off your fingers at some points, get on them!
@@billking8843 I figured this was the reality. Appreciate it. Climbing internet is full of advice of, by, and for twenty-somethings, and it's hard to get the facts.
I boulder therefore I rock
limit bouldering for V0 climber?
Yes. You would just be working on V0-V1 climbs were you need to work hard and problem solve. At this level it's a lot about problem solving. It's the Boulder Mileage session that would be tricky to complete, as it's hard to drop the intensity much lower in many gyms. Here I would recommend only repeating climbs you feel confident on, and build up to 15-20 climbs over several weeks.
bold of you to assume that a V0 - V3 climbers' forearm muscles and fingers can endure so long xD
Personally I 'm a V3 climber, I started climbing just over 1 month ago or sth and if I were to warmup my fingers, then try "warm-up" boulders and after all that try some techniques, my forearms/fingers would have given up before I even reached the boulders that I 'm actually interested in doing. Instead, all I 'm doing is some shoulder rotations and like 2-3 easy boulders (VB - V2) for warmup and then I just start trying V3s or V4s and I haven't had any problems with injuries or anything yet.
I think it's perfectly reasonable for climbers of V0-V3 can sustain this kind of session if they are fit and healthy. Through the first years of climbing it's important to climb a lot and build up the capacity to climb more. This is how you'll learn good technique. If you personally are are trying V3-V4's as a V0-V3 climber, you are 'projecting' boulders. Which is the second session option we mention in the video. In this session, we suggest you only try 3 boulders in total. So I don't think your session is that different and you'd only need to extend your warm-up/skill practice to complete what we've outlined in this video. A few extra important notes; 1. If you tire really quickly, check how long you are resting for between climbs. We say "20-30 mins of skill practice" but a lot of this will just be resting on the mats and visualising climbs or reflecting on your movement. 2. You say you've only been climbing for just over a month, I expect your capacity to climb will improve very quickly across the next 3-6 months. Be patient, it's very early days in your climbing and this session works for people years into their climbing journey. 3. We do mention you should adapt the volume/number of climbs based on your training history. Regress the session as much as you need.
@@LatticeTraining thank you for the response, I 'll keep all that in mind and I 'll try to get better.
are those new shoes from UP?
Yep, but coming out next season.
It's a shame almost all videos like this are always aimed at boulderers. Sport climbing needs more love
The benefit is we get quieter climbs outdoors when all the indoor climbers are in the gym!
Took me 1 and a half years to get my first V7 I started climbing at age 37 I'm happy to never do a V8.
Pooping is the best warmup. Reduce weight.
Y’all do realize that it takes months to even be able to half crimp at all let alone most of your body weight.. every beginner climber ever starts with open hand / natural grips, not a crimp, those take a long time to be able to even do. Every video is just like “do a half crimp” like bro you have no idea what it’s like to be a beginner!
They're saying leave your feet on the ground. If you have a hangboard at home, you can put a scale under yourself to see how much weight you're pulling. If I weigh 70kg/155lbs and see that the scale says 60kg/130lbs I am only pulling 10kg/25lbs (yes I know those arent the kg to lbs conversions, just for an example). Another option would be using a portable hangboard like the tension block and doing weighted pulls, that can be easier to control the weight so it's consistent.
+1 for feet down. Also using a deeper edge (30mm or 40mm) is good for training the form at a lower intensity.
What this video talks about for beginner hangboarding is 'no-hangs' where you never let your feet off the floor, and adjust intensity accordingly with how much weight is being supported by your fingers. Its a good tool for recovery and beginner training. Do a few sets of no hangs every few days a week and you will definitely notice gains on the wall. Of course, the main priority for beginners is to climb frequently.
Hi Nick. Yes, it's very true some new climbers struggle with the half crimp position. But we quite explicitly say you don't need to hang bodyweight in this video. Keep you feet on the floor and you can put very low loads into the fingers in this position. As we say in the video, this is to become familiar with the grip type because we recognise it doesn't always come naturally. Personally we think its fine for beginners to learn this position with low intensity and as far as know, there is not a grade or strength level where climbers should apparently graduate to half crimp.
i was able to do a half crimp after days of hangboarding with no previous climbing or exercise experience.
Static stretching at the beginning of activity is a great way to, at best, waste time, or tire out muscles, and, at worst, increase the likelihood of injury. I know there are people everywhere doing things that aren't considered best practice and it works for them, but a video showcasing a supposed professional encouraging beginners to do the exact opposite of what research shows to be safest and most beneficial is irresponsible in the highest regard. Please stop making videos without a disclaimer stating that you have no education or expertise to guide anyone in physical activity.
Hi Nick. The research that says stretching increases injury risk and reduces performance is either outdated or out of context to sports that require a large ROM. It's simply not true that stretching is a waste of time for a sport such as climbing. Similarly, you would not see gymnasts, dancers or martial artists avoiding stretching before a performance. If you need to kick to a height of 6ft or perform an arial staddle, warming up flexibility IS performance enhancing. The same is true for maximising open hips and foot-to-hand matches etc. Arguably trying to achieve these large ROM techniques without stretching poses a greater risk of injury. The "tire out muscles" comment has truth but the research I've read that puts this into a sporting context (included in a normal warm-up), shows a >3% drop in maximum force output. A negligible decrease for most climbers especially when considering the muscle groups like the adductors which rarely are working at 100% capacity while climbing, and the confounding performance increase stretching has for many techniques. Bad for sprinting or weightlifting maybe, but less so for climbing. I understand the concerns but if you think stretching is an irresponsible recommendation I'd like to see the evidence because I've not seen adequate research to say the contrary. I am always open to change my mind (I used to have your view in fact) but it's a pretty bold claim to say this advise is unfounded or unwarranted.
The single arm row technique was very poor. Eccentric was way too quick and the scapula should protract all the way. No form cues on the bench press. Dont give advice on strength training if you are not an expert!
beginner should rather do push ups instead of bench press. climbing is whole body sport. you should skip isolated excercises when possible