Thanks for the video! The correct screwdriver to use for removing the rotor screws is a #3 Japanese industrial standard screwdriver. Those screws came out way too easy!
Thanks for this video, it was very well filmed and the steps were clearly explained. I did buy the Vessel Impacta crosspoint screwdriver to help with those difficult screws on the rotor, and I believe it was well worth having it.
IMPORTANT PRO TIP NOT SHOWN HERE: as a 30+ year master tech, I've learend many years ago directly from brake a Bendix class to wash the rotors with soap and water, even if you've already used brake cleaner for degreasing. Why? Soap will lift and remove the micro-fine magnetic maching dust left behind from the lathe. Solvent will not. That dust acts just like tiny little ball bearings or even graphite grease between the pad and rotor making it more difficult to seat in the new surface together. The sympton is always "the new brakes take longer to stop so they need break-in." Pros that know this never need to "break-in" pads...ever! This is especially true if the rotors were just resurface on a brake lathe. New rotors in a box are pretty clean already, but try this anyway to be sure: grab a tissue and wipe it over the face of the rotor. If you see any gray on the tissue, that's the dust that needs to be washed off.
Take that little rubber plug out first and if you rotate the disc so it is just forward of bottom centre you can then access the parking break adjuster and loosen off the brake shoes and make removing the disk a lot easier. just use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate the little toothed adjuster. you will need to readjust after fitting the new disc by tightening until the break locks then backing off until it is free again. also make sure you clean inside the drum part of the disc with break cleaner otherwise your parking break will slip/
I noticed you installed the rusty calliper but when you put the tire back there was a new calliper. What was wrong with the old one and how did you know you needed to replace it? Good video, thanks
Good video. I like the fact Honda allows you to compress the rear brake pistons, rather than the infamous GM crank and turn. (PITA). P.S Why the tapered screws on the rotors? Car would never miss them.
I see you didn't change the spring clip as most caliper kits dont come with it, would that be a problem later as far as squeaking or vibration, or do you think you can just leave it
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Amir Salib
Note for most people they will need to use a impact hammer to remove those two Philips screws on the rotor. It’s a special Japan type screw and normal Philips bit will strip under load. Yet a cheep workaround is the $8 impact hammer screwdriver from harbor freight. The screws are not needed once removed, they are only there as convenience when the car was built. Also many will need to loosen the Parking brake, that’s what that little rubber hole is for. To get access to the praise adjuster
I love your videos, but I will never purchase another product from this company and I would warn others to do the same. Defective products right out of the box and the customer has to eat the shipping cost to return it. Never again.
you never open the cap unless you are installing new calipers. all you'll do is introduce air and moisture into your lines which will give you major problems.
@@tyler8076 I always thought that you had to remove the reservoir cap to allow the piston to retract back to its original position, otherwise you would get pushback on the piston and would make it hard to retract.
@@bahhaziz its what is makes the gloves dirty that is the problem you dont want any oil or grease on your brakes if you can help it but thats why you use brake cleaner.
I have watched quite a few of these crv rear brake videos and no one is replacing the main caliper spring clip. I got a new one with my kit. How the heck do you remove it? Pry with screwdriver???
Great video though. Very informative, had never seen that type of caliper clip on a break pad before. What about the clip mounted inside the caliper on the top?
Weird, your front video calls for 101 ft lbs on caliper bolts and this video (rear) calls for 79 ft lbs. The specs are that different on the front and back?
At the 7 minute mark when they are comparing the OEM and A1Auto rotors does the A1 rotor look a lot thinner and single wslled unlike the double walled OEM rotor?
The brake pad wear indicators always go on the trailing edge of the rotor. This means it'll always be the side facing the front of the car, doesn't matter if it's inside or outside as long as it's the trailing edge and not the leading edge. Trailing edge means it's the last point the rotor touches as it slides through the pad when rolling forward.
No. All they do is hold the rotor in place at production. They serve no purpose. As rusty as this car is, I'm surprised they've survived this long on this car 😂
Why didn't you clean the rust from the brake caliper and brake piston? Why didn't you lubricate the copper plates in the brake calipers with ceramic paste. Why you didn't replace them with new ones? Why didn't you clean the brake piston and lubricate the brake piston seal? Such a rusted and uncleaned brake caliper reflects very badly on the mechanic who replaced it. What about pad spring? These visible on your movie in 14:59. Why didn't you clean them of rust?
This 2009 Honda CR-V has so much rust, as if it got submerged in the water for two weeks. I have a 2007 Honda CR-V that is very clean and no rust at all.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
It’s amazing how clean you got the caliper With that wire brush at 8:43 LMAO 😂
I really appreciate the barely audible cowbell in the background, really helps bring the video together.
The transition from 8:41 to 8:43 is actually funny.
Everything is very specific very clear 👌
Thanks for the video! The correct screwdriver to use for removing the rotor screws is a #3 Japanese industrial standard screwdriver. Those screws came out way too easy!
Could not have done this in 2 hrs without the help of this tutorial. Thanks Very much!
+Steven Haley Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs to save both time and money! 1aauto.com
Thanks for this video, it was very well filmed and the steps were clearly explained. I did buy the Vessel Impacta crosspoint screwdriver to help with those difficult screws on the rotor, and I believe it was well worth having it.
At 8:42 this guy really trying to get us to think he cleaned that caliper that well hahahahhaha - you must have scrubbed it for weeks!
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Jordan Penley
Ya how did he clean that that clear?
I need one of those brushes apparently
@@footage6402 Looks like it's a brand new caliper bracket.
They reused some of the same video clips with their guide on changing the entire caliper on the same car.
"And you just scrub it a bit"
*new part appears*
"now it's nice and clean"
😂😂😂 lol
Thanks for the video though! It's very helpful.
IMPORTANT PRO TIP NOT SHOWN HERE: as a 30+ year master tech, I've learend many years ago directly from brake a Bendix class to wash the rotors with soap and water, even if you've already used brake cleaner for degreasing. Why? Soap will lift and remove the micro-fine magnetic maching dust left behind from the lathe. Solvent will not. That dust acts just like tiny little ball bearings or even graphite grease between the pad and rotor making it more difficult to seat in the new surface together. The sympton is always "the new brakes take longer to stop so they need break-in." Pros that know this never need to "break-in" pads...ever! This is especially true if the rotors were just resurface on a brake lathe. New rotors in a box are pretty clean already, but try this anyway to be sure: grab a tissue and wipe it over the face of the rotor. If you see any gray on the tissue, that's the dust that needs to be washed off.
Take that little rubber plug out first and if you rotate the disc so it is just forward of bottom centre you can then access the parking break adjuster and loosen off the brake shoes and make removing the disk a lot easier. just use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate the little toothed adjuster. you will need to readjust after fitting the new disc by tightening until the break locks then backing off until it is free again. also make sure you clean inside the drum part of the disc with break cleaner otherwise your parking break will slip/
Caliper bracket 79 ft/lb
Caliper 17 ft/lb
Wheel nuts 80 ft/lb
Excellent explanation
All I can say is thank you
I noticed you installed the rusty calliper but when you put the tire back there was a new calliper. What was wrong with the old one and how did you know you needed to replace it? Good video, thanks
That's a caliper carrier.
Good video. I like the fact Honda allows you to compress the rear brake pistons, rather than the infamous GM crank and turn. (PITA). P.S Why the tapered screws on the rotors? Car would never miss them.
Great video once again! Legend
+Reg Ryan Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I see you didn't change the spring clip as most caliper kits dont come with it, would that be a problem later as far as squeaking or vibration, or do you think you can just leave it
I really learned much
21 feb 2020 5:35 pm est:thanks
+gue st Thanks for checking us out!
God bless you man
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Amir Salib
Dam, my calipers would not come off. It was like the pads were stuck. You made that look so easy.
+Tom’s Video Collection Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
If only all rotor screws came out that easily
Note for most people they will need to use a impact hammer to remove those two Philips screws on the rotor. It’s a special Japan type screw and normal Philips bit will strip under load. Yet a cheep workaround is the $8 impact hammer screwdriver from harbor freight. The screws are not needed once removed, they are only there as convenience when the car was built. Also many will need to loosen the Parking brake, that’s what that little rubber hole is for. To get access to the praise adjuster
Awesome man
I love your videos, but I will never purchase another product from this company and I would warn others to do the same.
Defective products right out of the box and the customer has to eat the shipping cost to return it. Never again.
I prefer using the OEM metal parts and cleaning like you did in the video.
+Tom’s Video Collection Thanks for checking us out!
Can this be done without that caliper compressor tool?
You dont open the cap on the fluid reservoir? Thanks for the info.
you never open the cap unless you are installing new calipers. all you'll do is introduce air and moisture into your lines which will give you major problems.
@@tyler8076 I always thought that you had to remove the reservoir cap to allow the piston to retract back to its original position, otherwise you would get pushback on the piston and would make it hard to retract.
@@gr2262 yOU'RE CORRECT
For anybody watching this, DO NOT TOUCH THE PADS OR ROTORS WITH DIRTY GLOVES DURING INSTALL!!!
why
Pads and rotors collect dirt all the time, so what's gonna happen if touched with dirty gloves ????
@@bahhaziz its what is makes the gloves dirty that is the problem you dont want any oil or grease on your brakes if you can help it but thats why you use brake cleaner.
How the old caliper became a new one 😂
I have watched quite a few of these crv rear brake videos and no one is replacing the main caliper spring clip. I got a new one with my kit. How the heck do you remove it? Pry with screwdriver???
+Mike Arceri Using needle nosed pliers and a flat blade screwdriver, you can remove these spring clips. Thanks for watching.
The pads are specific for the driver's and passenger side? I don't see a difference and just did my rear brakes.
If you remove the bolts and damage them, is it necessary to put them back?
Or loosen prakimg brake adjuster to get rotir off if brakes to tight
Brand new caliper and bracket when he's putting the wheel back on. Magic?
Great video though. Very informative, had never seen that type of caliper clip on a break pad before. What about the clip mounted inside the caliper on the top?
I did all the steps and comes perfect, but after I finish the light vsa and abs comes on, any idea !?
Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is completely full. Not sure why, but this worked for me when I had the same problem.
you might have removed the sensor by accident
Anyone have issues with a whirring or loud noise after using the VSA?
My Honda has clips on calipers
Weird, your front video calls for 101 ft lbs on caliper bolts and this video (rear) calls for 79 ft lbs. The specs are that different on the front and back?
They could be different
Thank god , my Crv is not so rusty .
Is the rubber cap absolutely necessary? There wasn't any on my existing rotors.
It is if you have a drum style parking brake.
IT’S TRICKY TO ROCK A RHYME, TOO ROCK A RHYME THAT’S RIGHT ON TIME, IT’S TRICKY! 14:11
At the 7 minute mark when they are comparing the OEM and A1Auto rotors does the A1 rotor look a lot thinner and single wslled unlike the double walled OEM rotor?
+Rahil Modi It appears to be the camera angle, it is the same thickness as the OE. Thanks for checking us out!
Im just here for the comments of you ase certified mechanics
You mean you tube certified mechanics 😁
Sensor for the brake pad goes on the inside of the wheel and does it go on top or bottom or doesn't matter?
The brake pad wear indicators always go on the trailing edge of the rotor. This means it'll always be the side facing the front of the car, doesn't matter if it's inside or outside as long as it's the trailing edge and not the leading edge. Trailing edge means it's the last point the rotor touches as it slides through the pad when rolling forward.
Is it necessary to remove the two Phillips screws to take off the caliper? My caliper is sorta stuck on, and I can't figure out why.
No. All they do is hold the rotor in place at production. They serve no purpose. As rusty as this car is, I'm surprised they've survived this long on this car 😂
Do you have to change the rotors everytime you change the brakes .
+Glen McKelvey It is not necessary for the rotors and pads to be changed at the same time but it is easier for the parts to all be changed at once.
@@1AAuto
Thanks .
Anyone know if these guys ship to Canada 🇨🇦? I live in Toronto
+boom suga We do ship to Canada for most of our parts. Please do not hesitate to contact us with any further questions.
Why didn't you clean the rust from the brake caliper and brake piston? Why didn't you lubricate the copper plates in the brake calipers with ceramic paste. Why you didn't replace them with new ones?
Why didn't you clean the brake piston and lubricate the brake piston seal?
Such a rusted and uncleaned brake caliper reflects very badly on the mechanic who replaced it.
What about pad spring? These visible on your movie in 14:59. Why didn't you clean them of rust?
East Coast Car ..
On a 2007 its a 17mm and 14mm bolts… not 12mm
More rust on those brakes than the Titanic
or just use a c clamp
This 2009 Honda CR-V has so much rust, as if it got submerged in the water for two weeks. I have a 2007 Honda CR-V that is very clean and no rust at all.
The car is probably from up north. It really does a number on our vehicles up here on Ohio.
Seems like every Michigan car I've ever seen.
Wow. People who live with snow sure have rusty cars.
Hi
You just completely ignore the position of the adjusting hole which you pull the rubber plug off.