2000-2006 toyota tundra Secondary Air Injection Check Valve replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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On my 05 Tundra I had a stuck bank 1 Sec air inj ck valve code P2440, but I ended up pulling the valve without removing the intake sys. Enough room exists in the back providing you lay a thick foam cushion across your engine and lay on the pad. Also, you'll need a 1/4" swivel head ratchet with tight gearing. I bought the Titan 90 tooth swivel head from O'rielly Auto Parts for $17. This is critical to get the two long 10mm bolts on the valve. You should disconnect the vacuum lines that run to the passenger side solenoids because it makes it easier to get the valve out before you disconnect the vacuum line on the removed valve. I ended up cleaning my valve with brake parts cleaner and removed two small pieces of plastic that prevented the check valve from closing. After testing the vacuum with my MityVac to make sure the valve holds vacuum I reinstalled it and the Shop-Vac sound went away, the engine light has stayed off and no fault codes show on my OBD. I ordered two Dorman check valves to replace at a later date, but its an easy job when you don't have to remove the intake assembly.
This is an excellent video. It is easy to understand and the presentor takes his time to explain everything.
Nice & clear presentation, thank you. I estimate it will take me 3 days to do same job. Professional mechanics are amazing, and tough....and they have the experience and tools and workspace.
professional straight and to the point
Nice camera work. 👍🏽 If the air pump or the diverter valve was bad would you see this in a code. And is that why only the one secondary air valve was replaced?
tip : to make it easier to reach everything deflate the front tires and you gain more reach probably 6 inches or more
Just finished this job today.
Just want to add a couple things;
1) During removal, I got hung up from removing intake manifold by a 2nd 10mm bolt holding the wiring harness on PASSENGER side.
2) I'd suggest first Vacuuming all around edge of manifold as I somehow had SAND and lots of debris, some abrasive, some not which could easily fall into intake ports!
3) I like someone's idea, before reassembly, to place some screen or mesh over fan intake port as the fan impellers are plastic and sometimes get damaged by incoming debris.
Great video others make it look impossible to try it by yourself 🤣👍👍👍
Those check valves was a bitch to get on for me, thanks for the video.
Why would a 2000 4.7 not have these air valves? Would it have some sort of secondary air injection in a different location? I am certain they are not behind/under the manifold on mine. Asking just in case you have an answer nobody else seems to have. Thanks and great job and video. You are a skilled person.
Emissions were not as strict on first year tundras.
Thanks 🙏
I have a 2003 4.7 tundra. My intake manifold is aluminum and I don’t have any of the solenoids on the side, pump, or diverter valves underneath. How come?
Anyone know how to check the Diverter Valve?
Is it straight 12V operation?
What was the fault code or symptoms
My pump stays on and never stops running. You know what it could be ?
My 2001 Toyota Tundra v8 just started having a humming sound by the Engine when I accelerate. Im thinking its the secondary air pump. Did yours have that symptom too?
No this just turned on the light
what code did you get?
How do you know that Check Valves are broken and not Secondary Air Injection Pump?
easy to check pump; between fuse boxes and brake master, pull big grey connector and short (jumper) the two contacts within, and pump should run without crunchy sounds. that's it!
Very easy to check air pump; between fuse boxes and brake master there's a big grey connector; disconnect and firmly short(jumper) the two contacts within(needlenose pliers work well) and the fan motor should run smoothly without clunkiness or crunchiness, If it doesn't then most likely the fan is bad.
Some guy skipped all these steps and took it out through the back 😂 without having to take out the rest
Nice fricking yellow headlights...WTF