First of all, absolutely top notch video. Excellent step by step instruction, you named every part, hose and connector you touched, showed how best to make the approach for some of the more difficult spots, and edited it so it moved quickly but showed everything. I’ve watched a lot of RUclips automotive videos and this is easily one of the best. After finishing this job today myself-and it was a real PITA-I’ll add a few of my own observations. First, when you say those valves in the back are the most difficult part of the job, good lord was that correct. I ended up removing the coolant pipe entirely, suffering the coolant loss and cleaning it up later, just so I had more play to move the plastic electrical harness to access those bolts. Also, you mentioned this in the video, but I’ll reiterate - do NOT tighten the mounting bolts on the valves until you have the side mounted lines seated. I made this mistake, had no play whatsoever with those lines, almost cross threaded one, and finally had to take the piece completely out, fix the threading and try again. Leave the mounting bolts really loose and you’ll have a much easier time getting those side pieces threaded. Just a bit of advice for anyone watching this video from someone who just had their ass kicked by it. After finishing the job two of the old codes cleared but now I have a pending P2445 after the drive back. I’m hoping this will reset itself, there’s no drivability issues, no MIL, just the pending code. We did not however replace the pump, only the check valves and the diverted valve, so I guess we’ll wait and see. Anyways thanks again for a fantastic video, this mechanic thanks you 👍🏻👍🏻
Just finished doing this job on my dad’s Tundra with the Toyota OEM part. Everything went smoothly, mostly thanks to the wonderful instructions in this video. I can tell this guy has lots of experience and knows what he is talking about. I was able to replace the air pump without moving the coolant pipe. Managed to have it all done in about 3 hours while moving along at a comfortable pace. Highly recommend placing the nuts/bolts back where they were taken from as there is a lot of them that are similar. Thanks for saving me $1800 in labor at our local mechanic. Keep it up!
Thanks for taking the time and recording the video. It was very helpful, I watched the video once couple of weeks ago, got the part numbers and ordered from e-bay. Got all the parts, watched the video once more and tackled the job. Of course it took me whole day, but the end of the day job is done and the truck accelerates like a new car.It's a 2006 Tundra with just about 80k miles. Toyota dealer in LA quoted me $2,311 for for the air pump and brake light switch. Cost me about $850 from e-bay. Thanks a million.
My 2005 tundra just gave me the P1444 and P2440 codes this morning. Finding this video and comment/post encourages me to work this repair myself. Thanks to Brian and VTV!
Hey Brian ... thanks for the great explanation and video! Followed it step by step to clear my p1441 and p1445 check engine light codes. You saved me about $2000 (shop wanted $3000 for the pump and valves replacement alone). I did get another code (p1516) after getting everything everything back together but was an easy fix with a thorough cleaning of the throttle body (with CRC throttle body cleaner). Those doing this replacement might look into cleaning their throttle body at the same time if it has not been done in a while. It did take me about a whole day to do this one (getting those valves in back out and in was the major time consumer for me).
This just hit home. My 2010 Tundra needs the air pump replaced and my mechanic said to watch your video. He didn't know that I knew you. lol Thanks, Brian for sharing your wisdom.
Absolutely, 2nd the Motion !! I've seen several videos on this topic and your video by far the most professional, clear and precise video !!! Thanks so much and keep up the Great Work !!!
Excellent video! Well narrated and great video coverage of all parts removed. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this quality video. You saved me a lot of labor costs.
I just finished my truck, I am so thankful for your excellent video and professionalism, for months trying to get the money together to fix it and the person to do it, finally I decided to go forward and do it myself, thanks so much for sharing!
when i took mine apart i found acorns in the check valves and diverter valve.I cleaned out the diverter valve and replaced check valves worked great ,under 200 bucks an about 3 hours of mine time awesome video thanks
Man you you’re amazing you did it like nothing and the way you explain everything so good I think my 10 year old son can do it watching your video thank you for your help and time.
Do you know if all the electrical connections are dedicated so there is no chance of hooking the wrong ones up to say a different connector? I have a 2001 Tundra and because of the cost of replacing these things, I'm going to have to start doing these myself. I can spin wrenches by the way. Thanks, Garry.
You saved me a few thousand dollars today. thank you. In trying to reach those hard to get at bolts, instead of a magnet I've always found that a small piece of masking tape. to the bolt & socket always worked best for me. Also keep a 10 & 12 mm bolt extractor around. A 10 mil on a vacuum pump was an answer to prayer for me. u
Great tutorial! I did mine with an eBay $75 aftermarket one. Works perfectly. Only things I would say is that if you buy the eBay one, you don’t have to remove the entire support bracket beneath the secondary air pump. Just remove the air pump and the control valve. NO need to even touch the metal coolant pipe. And the eBay air pump fins are made out of metal from what I can see.
Did you only replace the air pump or did you replace the check valves and everything else too? My code is only for the pump being stuck. I ordered a new secondary air pump off eBay for $56
@@Dr.Smartbrain you should replace everything else. The debris did travel down the system and cause me to replace those items you mention a few month later.
Excellent video! I'm working through this job on my V8 4Runner... BIG pain with the smaller engine bay. there's only about 0.5" between the top of the bolt head that secures the check valve and the firewall. Do you know if there's a documented torque spec for the fasteners on check valves? Either the ones that secure them to the bracket, or for the ports?
I just did this job for the first time yesterday. Pump was burnt out I’m a professional technician and have to give credit that this video is excellent. Although I’m finding that the pump still does not activate. Suspecting a bad relay as the 50 amp fuse is intact
You can check pump operation easily; key ON; behind Lg Relay and Fuse Block there’s a grey plug with large red & blue wires coming out of it; this is next to/below brake master cylinder; unplug and jumper contacts for red & blue and pump should run; make sure key is ON. 2005
Brian.....excellent video....great job.......My 2006 Toyota Sequoia is throwing P1442 and/or P1445 ........I clear them and they return after so many miles of driving ( 50-60 miles or so )............Do you suggest replacing all parts ( air pump, diverter valve, and both air switching valves #2 ) ? Isn't the problem most likely the diaphrams in the air switching valves #2 ? But I read a comment below by you indicating possible the paper filter in the pump disintegrating & clogging the other parts.... Cant the problem be isolated to a specific part ? Instead of just replacing all the parts......I didnt even mention the VSV valves or the vacuum lines themselves. I am in California so bypassing is not an option...... Thanks and awaiting your reply.... Keep up the great work......Much appreciated.....
Bilge what you can do is once you have the intake off is test each one of them individually. What I have found is two things one of the check valves will malfunction in the open position allowing hot gas from the exhaust to go backwards up the system damaging it. Or the air pump has a filter inside of that comes apart and the debris flow through the system causing it to hold the valves open allowing the hot gases to come backwards through the system which interns damages pretty much everything. But you can test each individual part once you’re in there and determine if it all needs to be replaced or just one or two parts.
P1442 and/or P1445 indicate that the air switching valves #2 are stuck closed on bank 1 or 2....... Does this suggest that maybe the diaphrams are bad in the ASV #2 or maybe the smog pump is not powering on at startup....? Just a thought..... As you suggested....I will probably have to test each part after teardown per the OEM factory service manual. Is the smog pump rebuildable? You indicated maybe the paper filter disintegrates ? This part is very expensive. Thanks and looking forward to your reply...
I have tore down to the parts......smog pump has tested good.......diverter valve has tested good.....have not gotten the 2 ASV #2 valves off yet to test but I suspect these 2 valves are bad.....I applied 4.35 psi vacuum to them but it did not hold....will do further test when removed from vehicle ( the blow test with and without vac applied ) ........I dont want to replace parts that test good because I am in there....the pump and diverter valve are expensive and have tested OK so no replacement.....
Some have said there are TWO pumps, true for 2005’s? My pump runs when jumpering at “relay” but is not super loud like a vacuum cleaner, would you skip and just replace valves?
My Sequoia was only throwing a code for the secondary air injection pump. I plan to replace the secondary air injection pump and the main valve, but what about the check valves? Should I just do those also while I’m in there or leave them?
The small piece of hose that connects the air pump to the diverter valve... do you know the part number for that? If not, would you happen to know what size and length is needed? Thank you.
Thank you, this is an excellent video! One of the best walkthroughs on RUclips. I was able to do the whole thing in 7-8 hours this weekend. One thing I will add - I wouldn't loosen the water pipe unless necessary, I had some coolant leak as a result of miving the pipe too much. Anyway, it cleared the P0412 code on my Sequoia, but the P0031 and P0051 remain (even after new upstream O2 sensors and a new secondary air injection system). Hopefully I can figure out what else could possibly throw those codes. Nice work on the video!
I got a question. So if you can hear the "whirring sound" of the secondary air pump on cold start, does that mean you have to replace it already? Is it a sign of pump failure when you hear that sound? It goes away after 20 seconds though and does not re-appear until the next cold start (about more than 5 hrs since the engine was turned off).
@@hyperstguy I have the same problem with my 07 GX470. Went cheap and just replaced a secondary air injection pump only. I opened up the old one and saw black foam piece and the plastic turbine beneath missing some blades. So where does all these pieces go? May have to get new diverter valve and check valves.
I have a 2005 With intermittent Rough idle and p1442 p 1442. The check engine light went off after scan. Do you think this is what I need? Thanks you and great video.
No kidding. What ever happened to the days of bolt off and bolt on starters and alternators that were pretty easy to get to! Remember the days when you could actually see your engine?
I have a 2004 Tundra 4.7 and want to remove the fuel injectors for cleaning, would you remove the manifold to get better access to remove/install them or just pull out the fuel rails/injectors and leave the manifold in place?
I noticed that the pump is on a mounting plate and it looked liked you bought the pump with a new mounting plate. Does the pump just bolt onto the plate? Asking because the dealership seems to sell both just the pump and the pump on that plate. Seems it would be cheaper just to buy the pump.
Thank you very much. I needed instructions for a 2005 4 runner with the same motor and this video was great. There are a couple subtle differences but for the most part it was spot on. Thank you. You saved me $1700. I used your affiliate links for parts but where is your tip Jar? I cant thank you enough!
great video , for removed the check valve ,i removed the joint , right there where mount the valves ,gasket part is JOINT GASKET - TOYOTA (16341-50020) water outlet gasket for water by-pass joint
Hey great video , I have a 4 runner 2007 4.7 and I recently changed all the gasket and it was fine until last week that the check engine light comes on with the codes p2444 p418 You have any advice for me?
Excellent video congratulations! I’m currently experiencing the same issue on a 06 lexus gx470 and don’t know if I should install the bypass kit to save some money but at the same time not sure if doing so will make the car fail the smog check. What do you recommend? Thanks in advance really appreciate it.
Thanks for the great video. If I was only going to replace the secondary injection check valves, do I need to take the intake manifold out as well to get access to the secondary injection check valves or not?
You are a lifesaver. I removed my intake and thought the return fuel line was just a regular hose and I broke it. Wondering if I can get away with a standard hose clamp or do I have to try and pull that line off that fuel rail?
No one seems to be able to get an answer to this question. I got the same code last night and just ordered the pump. I might try just replacing the pump and manifold gaskets (while i have it off)
I have followed your instructions, by the way great video. After putting everything back, the truck turns on and after a few seconds turns off, second try and truck runs fine. Driving about 50mph, truck loose power - iddle, and goes back to normal this a cycle. Codes sent me to look deeper, and I have replaced o2 sensors, but no luck, trucks still have engine light on and same issues.
Nyto MunFer what is the code. From my experience with something like this happens if you don’t have a large vacuum leak or something did not get plugged back in. Also double check for wiring being pinched between something.
How to Automotive Hello! Thanks for your quick respond. I took my truck to Autozone to use their scanner, here are the codes:P1440, P0037, P0057, P0102, P1443.
i had the dealer do this under warranty 4 years and 60k miles ago. i just got a p2442 code for the secondary pump. can i just replace the secondary pump or does the entire job need to be redone?
Hi Brian, Im getting code P0418 which lead me to your video, Also getting code C1201 and P2445, if replacing this pump and check valves, take care of all these codes? Also getting the ABS and TRAC off light and also VSC light, part of this fix? Thanks!
Yes I fix it, replace the pump and put a custom screen on the intake. A mouse got in there and was grinned up into pieces. I recommend that if anybody is in there to replace that pump to put a screen over that intake.
I've got a Celica with a code for secondary air injection. The brake pedal is good, until I start car, then it goes to the floor. Could they be related?
Just did this for the second time on a 4runner. First time took two nights to do. It took me less than two hours to take off the manifold this time around. That experience/muscle memory really helps.
Great video. How did you release the pressure from the gas? I have a 2007 sequioa limited and it’s getting code P1444. Only happens after I switch my 4x4 on
Update 2nd attempt--What this video dosen't explain, is that u need to put a fine wire mesh filter on intake of air pump. Keep acron debris and other from mice and chick monks. Also can clean valves out and system out. I figured it out the hard way, 2nd time around. 1st attempt Great video, Thanks alot 06 Toyota tundra 4.7liter with p1441 code. Replaced all parts myself, bought on ebay. Did the trick. Power is back and shifts better than ever has.
Just tried this on my 07 4Runner with the 4.7 V8 and I absolutely could not get the valves out from the back. For the driver side one I managed to take out the two side nuts and the top bolt, but could not reach the bottom bolt with any tool. Attempted for hours. I gave up and put everything back together. Going to take it to the dealership.
Just did one myself and he’s had practice from what I notice. It took me a few hours to finagle the bolts out in the very back, but the setup is ever so slightly different.
@ yep I ended up doing this job years ago, I was able to pull it off but it took a lot of time, energy, and patience. I think the 4Runner has slightly less hood space than the sequoia
When would you also replace the vacuum valves feeding the air valves? Did you know they were ok? Nice video, now I’m more confident to do the job and save the $2k Thanks!
How to Automotive Thanks for replaying. Quick question, I’m getting codes P1442, P1445 and P2441 secondary air injection system switching valve stuck closed. Should I change only the air injection pump with the house or all the parts in the video. Thanks again.
Do you happen to know the Oring size that you replaced the undersized dealer oring with? Just trying to avoid an additional trip during the install. Thanks .
Wow, very impressive how easy you made this look. . . and I know it's NOT easy. I'm almost tempted to give it a stab myself, but not sure yet. Trying to decide if I wan't to try the bypass kit, or dive deep into it and attempt what you did. My 06 Tundra only has 67K miles on it and it needs this done, (same codes). Just can't decide if I wanna go through this to rebuild a weak system. Hhhmmmmmm
I have a bypass kit and am tempted to replace the pump and valves. I still get a code , but I'm not In limp mode. I hear these pumps dont last very long before needing to be replaced.
Michael Nicholson I will be having A diagnostic video coming out on this topic soon. The most common reason for it to fail is a filter inside the pump that comes apart and spreads the Debree through the whole system. So you can have a little particles hold the valves open and not work.
How to Automotive Thanks for your quick reply. I understand now. That makes the job costly as well. I agree that it’s needed so you don’t have a comeback and have to go back in it... thanks again man.
How to Automotive Hey there, I disassembled it today. Found open pump motor and filter material in the pump hose. It's getting it all . Your video made the tear down alot easier than going into it blind. Thanks for your time and quick response. Keep up the good work! Techs need these kind of videos and diagnostic videos two. Dealerships are working hard to push us out. Thanks again from Tennessee Mike.
On Toyota and Lexus the air injection pump has a filter inside of it that comes apart and plugs up all the valves. That cause check engine lights and also make noise.
On some bottles it will go into limp mode. Meaning that it will not have full acceleration and other things may be shut down to help prevent the vehicle from damage. But that’s not all models.Most likely you’ll be OK running it but if another problem pops up you won’t know because the check engine light will be on all the time.
@@HowtoAutomotive ahh gotcha what exactly is the air pump n other part for? Whats their function? Is just emission stuff? Cause where i live theres no emission test
1 MAN ARMY Guzman Yes it is in missions related. It pumps oxygen into the exhaust system to help heated up it’s kind a like fainting a fire to make it hotter. It only comes on when you first started vehicle to help warm it up faster.
@@HowtoAutomotive ooo ok i thought it was something more serious! Kinda relieved! What causes this to fail?... Why would toyota make a design like this? Like what r the benefits to this warming up faster?
I replaced everything and I am still getting the P2445 cel. Anybody have experience with this? I even went so far as to change the driver. If I force the pump to kick on I can hear it running.
This truck is put together so whack that any time you have to remove anything you may as well replace everything that you can while you have things pulled off/out.
Incredible!! I’m fairly confident working on the Ford trucks I’ve owned my entire life, but this 05 4Runner is a different animal. I have the bypass kit installed, but during cold weather I get the “cold weather glitch” that causes the system to run while driving and it throws the code. Never on start up. Sucks, because now I’m going to have to replace the system unless I can find a dealership that can find the calibration file that reflashes the ECM to correct that glitch. So far no luck there. Guess they’d rather try to charge me $3500 to fix it.
Brian Johnson I don’t know have anybody program them out but one thing I would look into is your coolant temp sensor or thermostat may be stuck open causing the vehicle to think it still cold. Both of those are simple fixes.
No it isn't I just did it today. The 08 has the check valves on the sides of the valve covers just elevated near the back of the engine. very easy to get to. The pump is still under the manifold and there is also one under the fender of the passenger side. I'm having the dreaded limp mode from the valve sticking. And I replaced it but that didn't solve my problem. If I were you I would just buy the bypass system found on Ebay for 199 bucks. That's the route I'm going now.
Everything was good in my repair except for the 2 air check valves. On an 06 4runner its near impossible without taking that whole cross over tube in front of them.
First of all, absolutely top notch video. Excellent step by step instruction, you named every part, hose and connector you touched, showed how best to make the approach for some of the more difficult spots, and edited it so it moved quickly but showed everything. I’ve watched a lot of RUclips automotive videos and this is easily one of the best.
After finishing this job today myself-and it was a real PITA-I’ll add a few of my own observations. First, when you say those valves in the back are the most difficult part of the job, good lord was that correct. I ended up removing the coolant pipe entirely, suffering the coolant loss and cleaning it up later, just so I had more play to move the plastic electrical harness to access those bolts. Also, you mentioned this in the video, but I’ll reiterate - do NOT tighten the mounting bolts on the valves until you have the side mounted lines seated. I made this mistake, had no play whatsoever with those lines, almost cross threaded one, and finally had to take the piece completely out, fix the threading and try again. Leave the mounting bolts really loose and you’ll have a much easier time getting those side pieces threaded. Just a bit of advice for anyone watching this video from someone who just had their ass kicked by it. After finishing the job two of the old codes cleared but now I have a pending P2445 after the drive back. I’m hoping this will reset itself, there’s no drivability issues, no MIL, just the pending code. We did not however replace the pump, only the check valves and the diverted valve, so I guess we’ll wait and see.
Anyways thanks again for a fantastic video, this mechanic thanks you 👍🏻👍🏻
Hello Tom. Did you ever get that code p2445 cleared out? I have that same code and I would like to know how you fixed it. Thank s.
Just finished doing this job on my dad’s Tundra with the Toyota OEM part. Everything went smoothly, mostly thanks to the wonderful instructions in this video. I can tell this guy has lots of experience and knows what he is talking about. I was able to replace the air pump without moving the coolant pipe. Managed to have it all done in about 3 hours while moving along at a comfortable pace. Highly recommend placing the nuts/bolts back where they were taken from as there is a lot of them that are similar. Thanks for saving me $1800 in labor at our local mechanic. Keep it up!
Oliver Anic always happy to help someone saying. Glad it all worked out thank you for watching!
Did you only replace the air pump and leave everything else alone? I just ordered the pump.
Thank you from Kenya 🇰🇪. You saved me a lot of money. I used this video step by step and I fixed my truck myself. 🙏🏾 thank you
How much did you save?
On a big job like this, I have found it handy to take pictures of the engine bay before disassembly. Helps with reassembly.
Possibly the best disassembly/assembly video I have ever seen. Well done, Mr. Eslick!
Jim H thank you and thank you for watching!
Thanks for taking the time and recording the video. It was very helpful, I watched the video once couple of weeks ago, got the part numbers and ordered from e-bay. Got all the parts, watched the video once more and tackled the job. Of course it took me whole day, but the end of the day job is done and the truck accelerates like a new car.It's a 2006 Tundra with just about 80k miles. Toyota dealer in LA quoted me $2,311 for for the air pump and brake light switch. Cost me about $850 from e-bay. Thanks a million.
VTV that’s some big saving love to hear that. Thank you for sharing and watching!
My 2005 tundra just gave me the P1444 and P2440 codes this morning. Finding this video and comment/post encourages me to work this repair myself. Thanks to Brian and VTV!
This is the best video so far to how to replace those parts!!!!!
Hey Brian ... thanks for the great explanation and video! Followed it step by step to clear my p1441 and p1445 check engine light codes. You saved me about $2000 (shop wanted $3000 for the pump and valves replacement alone). I did get another code (p1516) after getting everything everything back together but was an easy fix with a thorough cleaning of the throttle body (with CRC throttle body cleaner). Those doing this replacement might look into cleaning their throttle body at the same time if it has not been done in a while. It did take me about a whole day to do this one (getting those valves in back out and in was the major time consumer for me).
This just hit home. My 2010 Tundra needs the air pump replaced and my mechanic said to watch your video. He didn't know that I knew you. lol Thanks, Brian for sharing your wisdom.
2010 is totally different- uts outside the motor from what I understand
Absolutely, 2nd the Motion !! I've seen several videos on this topic and your video by far the most professional, clear and precise video !!! Thanks so much and keep up the Great Work !!!
Best video by far. You are such an asset to us RUclips Certified mechanics lol
@@jacobtrumble3689 glad you like the video. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Took me about 5 hrs and everything was back in shape. Keep up the good work!
Excellent video! Well narrated and great video coverage of all parts removed. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this quality video. You saved me a lot of labor costs.
I just finished my truck, I am so thankful for your excellent video and professionalism, for months trying to get the money together to fix it and the person to do it, finally I decided to go forward and do it myself, thanks so much for sharing!
when i took mine apart i found acorns in the check valves and diverter valve.I cleaned out the diverter valve and replaced check valves worked great ,under 200 bucks an about 3 hours of mine time awesome video thanks
Joe Parker Awesome glad it all worked out. Thank you for watching!
just dont see how you would get acorns in the diverter valve.....
I found acorns under the intake. It was rats or squirrels and they chewed the wires!
Man you you’re amazing you did it like nothing and the way you explain everything so good I think my 10 year old son can do it watching your video thank you for your help and time.
Thank you!
I can’t believe how easily this dude did this job one handed! Very impressive.
vineyardintern that you. I’ve done this job a hundred times so I know it inside and out.
Great explanation and tutorial. One of the best I’ve seen
Toyota wanted $1700 to change mine
Troy M that’s a lot of money. Have you done the repair yet and did it go smooth? How much do you think you saved?
They wanted to charge me $2,400...
It may have been a perfect time to replace the starter as well. What a spot to put the starter!
Do you know if all the electrical connections are dedicated so there is no chance of hooking the wrong ones up to say a different connector? I have a 2001 Tundra and because of the cost of replacing these things, I'm going to have to start doing these myself. I can spin wrenches by the way. Thanks, Garry.
Great video, went ahead and changed the starter and injectors while all was disassembled!
You saved me a few thousand dollars today. thank you. In trying to reach those hard to get at bolts, instead of a magnet I've always found that a small piece of masking tape. to the bolt & socket always worked best for me. Also keep a 10 & 12 mm bolt extractor around. A 10 mil on a vacuum pump was an answer to prayer for me. u
Great tutorial!
I did mine with an eBay $75 aftermarket one. Works perfectly.
Only things I would say is that if you buy the eBay one, you don’t have to remove the entire support bracket beneath the secondary air pump. Just remove the air pump and the control valve. NO need to even touch the metal coolant pipe.
And the eBay air pump fins are made out of metal from what I can see.
Did you only replace the air pump or did you replace the check valves and everything else too? My code is only for the pump being stuck. I ordered a new secondary air pump off eBay for $56
@@Dr.Smartbrain you should replace everything else. The debris did travel down the system and cause me to replace those items you mention a few month later.
Excellent video! I'm working through this job on my V8 4Runner... BIG pain with the smaller engine bay. there's only about 0.5" between the top of the bolt head that secures the check valve and the firewall. Do you know if there's a documented torque spec for the fasteners on check valves? Either the ones that secure them to the bracket, or for the ports?
I just did this job for the first time yesterday. Pump was burnt out
I’m a professional technician and have to give credit that this video is excellent.
Although I’m finding that the pump still does not activate.
Suspecting a bad relay as the 50 amp fuse is intact
You can check pump operation easily; key ON; behind Lg Relay and Fuse Block there’s a grey plug with large red & blue wires coming out of it; this is next to/below brake master cylinder; unplug and jumper contacts for red & blue and pump should run; make sure key is ON.
2005
@@rossr6616 thanks. I remember this job from a couple of years ago.
Ended up being the relay 👍
Brian.....excellent video....great job.......My 2006 Toyota Sequoia is throwing P1442 and/or P1445 ........I clear them and they return after so many miles of driving ( 50-60 miles or so )............Do you suggest replacing all parts ( air pump, diverter valve, and both air switching valves #2 ) ? Isn't the problem most likely the diaphrams in the air switching valves #2 ? But I read a comment below by you indicating possible the paper filter in the pump disintegrating & clogging the other parts.... Cant the problem be isolated to a specific part ? Instead of just replacing all the parts......I didnt even mention the VSV valves or the vacuum lines themselves. I am in California so bypassing is not an option...... Thanks and awaiting your reply.... Keep up the great work......Much appreciated.....
Bilge what you can do is once you have the intake off is test each one of them individually. What I have found is two things one of the check valves will malfunction in the open position allowing hot gas from the exhaust to go backwards up the system damaging it. Or the air pump has a filter inside of that comes apart and the debris flow through the system causing it to hold the valves open allowing the hot gases to come backwards through the system which interns damages pretty much everything. But you can test each individual part once you’re in there and determine if it all needs to be replaced or just one or two parts.
P1442 and/or P1445 indicate that the air switching valves #2 are stuck closed on bank 1 or 2.......
Does this suggest that maybe the diaphrams are bad in the ASV #2 or maybe the smog pump is not powering on at startup....? Just a thought.....
As you suggested....I will probably have to test each part after teardown per the OEM factory service manual.
Is the smog pump rebuildable? You indicated maybe the paper filter disintegrates ? This part is very expensive.
Thanks and looking forward to your reply...
I have tore down to the parts......smog pump has tested good.......diverter valve has tested good.....have not gotten the 2 ASV #2 valves off yet to test but I suspect these 2 valves are bad.....I applied 4.35 psi vacuum to them but it did not hold....will do further test when removed from vehicle ( the blow test with and without vac applied ) ........I dont want to replace parts that test good because I am in there....the pump and diverter valve are expensive and have tested OK so no replacement.....
Some have said there are TWO pumps, true for 2005’s?
My pump runs when jumpering at “relay” but is not super loud like a vacuum cleaner, would you skip and just replace valves?
My Sequoia was only throwing a code for the secondary air injection pump. I plan to replace the secondary air injection pump and the main valve, but what about the check valves? Should I just do those also while I’m in there or leave them?
The small piece of hose that connects the air pump to the diverter valve... do you know the part number for that? If not, would you happen to know what size and length is needed? Thank you.
Found it.... Part # 17341-50180
Thank you, this is an excellent video! One of the best walkthroughs on RUclips. I was able to do the whole thing in 7-8 hours this weekend. One thing I will add - I wouldn't loosen the water pipe unless necessary, I had some coolant leak as a result of miving the pipe too much.
Anyway, it cleared the P0412 code on my Sequoia, but the P0031 and P0051 remain (even after new upstream O2 sensors and a new secondary air injection system). Hopefully I can figure out what else could possibly throw those codes.
Nice work on the video!
Exactly. That stupid o ring from Toyota is $11. No joke!
I got a question. So if you can hear the "whirring sound" of the secondary air pump on cold start, does that mean you have to replace it already?
Is it a sign of pump failure when you hear that sound? It goes away after 20 seconds though and does not re-appear until the next cold start (about more than 5 hrs since the engine was turned off).
@@hyperstguy I have the same problem with my 07 GX470. Went cheap and just replaced a secondary air injection pump only. I opened up the old one and saw black foam piece and the plastic turbine beneath missing some blades. So where does all these pieces go? May have to get new diverter valve and check valves.
I have a 2005 With intermittent Rough idle and p1442 p 1442. The check engine light went off after scan. Do you think this is what I need? Thanks you and great video.
Great explanation and i'll buy you a hug TOYOTA dealer in NYC
I love the starter location in these engines. So accessible.
No kidding. What ever happened to the days of bolt off and bolt on starters and alternators that were pretty easy to get to! Remember the days when you could actually see your engine?
I have a 2004 Tundra 4.7 and want to remove the fuel injectors for cleaning, would you remove the manifold to get better access to remove/install them or just pull out the fuel rails/injectors and leave the manifold in place?
I noticed that the pump is on a mounting plate and it looked liked you bought the pump with a new mounting plate. Does the pump just bolt onto the plate? Asking because the dealership seems to sell both just the pump and the pump on that plate. Seems it would be cheaper just to buy the pump.
Thank you very much. I needed instructions for a 2005 4 runner with the same motor and this video was great. There are a couple subtle differences but for the most part it was spot on. Thank you. You saved me $1700. I used your affiliate links for parts but where is your tip Jar? I cant thank you enough!
That’s awesome the video helped you save. No need to tip. Thank you for watching!
I have a 2007 Tundra...same procedure I assume? And u would not do the valves without doing the pumps? Thanks
great video , for removed the check valve ,i removed the joint , right there where mount the valves ,gasket part is JOINT GASKET - TOYOTA (16341-50020)
water outlet gasket for water by-pass joint
Hey great video , I have a 4 runner 2007 4.7 and I recently changed all the gasket and it was fine until last week that the check engine light comes on with the codes p2444 p418
You have any advice for me?
P2445 sorry
What kind of wrench did you use to fit the back of the valve too tight due to firewall
Thanks for your video. You saved me a lot of money
Glad the video help you save. Thank you so much for watching!
I only have the p1445 code.
If I ONLY change my pump will this solve the issue?
Outstanding video, my man. Thanks so much for this.
Thank you for watching!
Excellent video congratulations! I’m currently experiencing the same issue on a 06 lexus gx470 and don’t know if I should install the bypass kit to save some money but at the same time not sure if doing so will make the car fail the smog check. What do you recommend? Thanks in advance really appreciate it.
Awesome video thank you for taking the time to explain step-by-step Most people don’t do that
How much were the parts?
Thanks for the great video. If I was only going to replace the secondary injection check valves, do I need to take the intake manifold out as well to get access to the secondary injection check valves or not?
Shawn Vue you can try but I don’t think there’s enough room to get your hands back there.
@@HowtoAutomotive I was thinking the same as well, thanks!
How this repair service cost in total? I have same problem with same engine and year?
You are a lifesaver. I removed my intake and thought the return fuel line was just a regular hose and I broke it. Wondering if I can get away with a standard hose clamp or do I have to try and pull that line off that fuel rail?
Does anyone know (or has owned and used) magnetic sockets instead of extension magnets like that used in the video?
Great explanation and i'll buy you a hug TOYOTA dealer in NYC...
Brian, I could not find the link with all the parts and numbers that you used for this repair. I need the same repair done on my 2006 Tundra.
Great video , where do I find the list of tools and or parts
In the description of the video. Click on it where it says see more and it will drop down.
If a P1442 code pops up is it necessary to replace all these parts?
No one seems to be able to get an answer to this question. I got the same code last night and just ordered the pump. I might try just replacing the pump and manifold gaskets (while i have it off)
Thanks Brian, [Q] Does a failing SAIS system failure create a WHOO noise?
I have followed your instructions, by the way great video. After putting everything back, the truck turns on and after a few seconds turns off, second try and truck runs fine. Driving about 50mph, truck loose power - iddle, and goes back to normal this a cycle. Codes sent me to look deeper, and I have replaced o2 sensors, but no luck, trucks still have engine light on and same issues.
Nyto MunFer what is the code. From my experience with something like this happens if you don’t have a large vacuum leak or something did not get plugged back in. Also double check for wiring being pinched between something.
How to Automotive Hello! Thanks for your quick respond. I took my truck to Autozone to use their scanner, here are the codes:P1440, P0037, P0057, P0102, P1443.
Nyto MunFer The P0102 mass airflow sensor code is the one causing your car to stall. I would look for pinched wires and blown fuses.
How to Automotive Hi there, thank you for all of the helpful information, my truck roars again.
Nyto MunFer glad to help. Thank you for watching!
I have the p1442 code. Do I need all parts listed above to clear the code ?
Same code I have. And I’m wondering if I can just replace the secondary air pump and leave everything Else alone.
i had the dealer do this under warranty 4 years and 60k miles ago. i just got a p2442 code for the secondary pump. can i just replace the secondary pump or does the entire job need to be redone?
Since the manifold is out are there any sensor you can change
Great video. My lower back hurts just watching this. lol
Will replacing the pump will that solve the codes p2441,p1445 and p1442
Would you recommend any thread treatment such Loctite when reassembling? If so, what grade or color Loctite? Thanks, Garry.
It didn’t come with any on the threads from the factory. You could always use some. If you do I would use the blue
What is suggested torque number for manifold to block bolts?
Hi Brian, Im getting code P0418 which lead me to your video, Also getting code C1201 and P2445, if replacing this pump and check valves, take care of all these codes? Also getting the ABS and TRAC off light and also VSC light, part of this fix? Thanks!
I have read on blogs that the ABS and TRAC off lights come on whenever the check engine light comes on. Some safety feature.
Hey John Cooper did you fix the problem on the code PO418? What parts did you replace? am also getting that code on my sequoia. Thks.
Yes I fix it, replace the pump and put a custom screen on the intake. A mouse got in there and was grinned up into pieces. I recommend that if anybody is in there to replace that pump to put a screen over that intake.
I've got a Celica with a code for secondary air injection. The brake pedal is good, until I start car, then it goes to the floor. Could they be related?
Wow. very nice quality demonstration.
Just did this for the second time on a 4runner. First time took two nights to do. It took me less than two hours to take off the manifold this time around. That experience/muscle memory really helps.
is this the same UZ motor found in a 2008 tundra?
Sean Naramore yes it’s the same
Great video. How did you release the pressure from the gas? I have a 2007 sequioa limited and it’s getting code P1444. Only happens after I switch my 4x4 on
Is the part the same
Hi, I was looking to buy a first generation Sequoia. I read online that 2004 and earlier did not have this issue. Can anyone clarify??
Update 2nd attempt--What this video dosen't explain, is that u need to put a fine wire mesh filter on intake of air pump. Keep acron debris and other from mice and chick monks. Also can clean valves out and system out. I figured it out the hard way, 2nd time around.
1st attempt Great video, Thanks alot
06 Toyota tundra 4.7liter with p1441 code. Replaced all parts myself, bought on ebay. Did the trick. Power is back and shifts better than ever has.
Great work Brian. I don't know if I'd wanna tackle that one ✋, even as easy as you make it seem. 😁🙄👍
Rob's Wrenches is about a 4 to 5 hour job not super hard but a lot of little things going on.
That equates to an entire weekend for my skill level. LOL Doable though.
Did you change the orings of the fuel injectors
Just tried this on my 07 4Runner with the 4.7 V8 and I absolutely could not get the valves out from the back. For the driver side one I managed to take out the two side nuts and the top bolt, but could not reach the bottom bolt with any tool. Attempted for hours. I gave up and put everything back together. Going to take it to the dealership.
Just did one myself and he’s had practice from what I notice.
It took me a few hours to finagle the bolts out in the very back, but the setup is ever so slightly different.
@ yep I ended up doing this job years ago, I was able to pull it off but it took a lot of time, energy, and patience. I think the 4Runner has slightly less hood space than the sequoia
When would you also replace the vacuum valves feeding the air valves?
Did you know they were ok?
Nice video, now I’m more confident to do the job and save the $2k
Thanks!
great video. does this instructions works just fine for a 2005 4runner V8 4.7L?
Olver Macias yes it's the same. Thank you for watching!
How to Automotive Thanks for replaying. Quick question, I’m getting codes P1442, P1445 and P2441 secondary air injection system switching valve stuck closed. Should I change only the air injection pump with the house or all the parts in the video.
Thanks again.
I'm getting the P1442 code. Oliver Macias, what did you end up doing? Did it fix the problems?
Do you happen to know the Oring size that you replaced the undersized dealer oring with? Just trying to avoid an additional trip during the install. Thanks .
Nathaniel Pelletier I don't know or remember the Oring size but all the parts I used are link in the description if that will help you.
Wow, very impressive how easy you made this look. . . and I know it's NOT easy. I'm almost tempted to give it a stab myself, but not sure yet. Trying to decide if I wan't to try the bypass kit, or dive deep into it and attempt what you did. My 06 Tundra only has 67K miles on it and it needs this done, (same codes). Just can't decide if I wanna go through this to rebuild a weak system. Hhhmmmmmm
I have a bypass kit and am tempted to replace the pump and valves. I still get a code , but I'm not In limp mode. I hear these pumps dont last very long before needing to be replaced.
Best on the net thank you
Does this cover the 2007 landcruiser? they put the VVTI 2UZ in them so i'd assume so.
SteroidalTacoSauce yes but I believe they have more room so it should be easier.
Hey great video. Do you have the diag part of the video? Is it necessary to replace all those parts? Just got one in the shop today. P0418 and P2445
Michael Nicholson I will be having A diagnostic video coming out on this topic soon. The most common reason for it to fail is a filter inside the pump that comes apart and spreads the Debree through the whole system. So you can have a little particles hold the valves open and not work.
How to Automotive Thanks for your quick reply. I understand now. That makes the job costly as well. I agree that it’s needed so you don’t have a comeback and have to go back in it... thanks again man.
Michael Nicholson if you take it apart and find that the Filter did not come apart then you may be ok just replacing the parts that failed.
How to Automotive Hey there, I disassembled it today. Found open pump motor and filter material in the pump hose. It's getting it all . Your video made the tear down alot easier than going into it blind. Thanks for your time and quick response. Keep up the good work! Techs need these kind of videos and diagnostic videos two. Dealerships are working hard to push us out. Thanks again from Tennessee Mike.
Michael Nicholson glad to help. Sounds like I was right about the filter coming apart.
Nice work what was the problem or code that lead you to replace all this parts
On Toyota and Lexus the air injection pump has a filter inside of it that comes apart and plugs up all the valves. That cause check engine lights and also make noise.
My codes where p0418, p2445.
Good video. Thanks Brian for sharing.
Whats the worst that can happen if u just keep driving? Seqioua runs good and turns on right away but check engine light on n vsc light
On some bottles it will go into limp mode. Meaning that it will not have full acceleration and other things may be shut down to help prevent the vehicle from damage. But that’s not all models.Most likely you’ll be OK running it but if another problem pops up you won’t know because the check engine light will be on all the time.
@@HowtoAutomotive ahh gotcha what exactly is the air pump n other part for? Whats their function? Is just emission stuff? Cause where i live theres no emission test
1 MAN ARMY Guzman Yes it is in missions related. It pumps oxygen into the exhaust system to help heated up it’s kind a like fainting a fire to make it hotter. It only comes on when you first started vehicle to help warm it up faster.
@@HowtoAutomotive ooo ok i thought it was something more serious! Kinda relieved! What causes this to fail?... Why would toyota make a design like this? Like what r the benefits to this warming up faster?
My question is about the check valves what happens if you do the job without replacing them I have a stuck fan code?
I have the same question
Why do some of the part numbers in the video not match the ones you listed in the item description?
I replaced everything and I am still getting the P2445 cel. Anybody have experience with this? I even went so far as to change the driver. If I force the pump to kick on I can hear it running.
You lost me after 2nd hose unplugged 🤣
Pretty good for a one handed mechanic!
Is it a good idea to change the starter too
This truck is put together so whack that any time you have to remove anything you may as well replace everything that you can while you have things pulled off/out.
Good info fixed my sequoia no more light on
Incredible!! I’m fairly confident working on the Ford trucks I’ve owned my entire life, but this 05 4Runner is a different animal. I have the bypass kit installed, but during cold weather I get the “cold weather glitch” that causes the system to run while driving and it throws the code. Never on start up. Sucks, because now I’m going to have to replace the system unless I can find a dealership that can find the calibration file that reflashes the ECM to correct that glitch. So far no luck there. Guess they’d rather try to charge me $3500 to fix it.
Brian Johnson I don’t know have anybody program them out but one thing I would look into is your coolant temp sensor or thermostat may be stuck open causing the vehicle to think it still cold. Both of those are simple fixes.
Perfect Video, thank you!
I have p2445 will that fix this code ?
Is this exactly the same for the 2008 tundra 4.7?
Yes it’s the same.
No it isn't I just did it today. The 08 has the check valves on the sides of the valve covers just elevated near the back of the engine. very easy to get to. The pump is still under the manifold and there is also one under the fender of the passenger side. I'm having the dreaded limp mode from the valve sticking. And I replaced it but that didn't solve my problem. If I were you I would just buy the bypass system found on Ebay for 199 bucks. That's the route I'm going now.
Everything was good in my repair except for the 2 air check valves. On an 06 4runner its near impossible without taking that whole cross over tube in front of them.
Awesome video! So helpful! Mahalo nui!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
does error code P1442 mean it cannot be fixed without replacement?
Bobby Walker I just got p1442 also, did you ever get any more info on this?
Very nice working
WWE FUN ENTERTAINMENT thank you. Did everything go smooth for you?