how did you flush up the window opening to the foam? if I use 2" foam over framing, do I bring the foam to the edge of the opening and nail the flange through the foam into the wood frame? or do I fur out the window frame opening and butt the foam up against that?
Im looking for an answer to the same question. If you figured it out could you answer for me ? or could anyone else ? It would be big time appreciated.
You get :-3 cans of foam make sure you get it in the 10 inch can. White cans only. Then you attach flange to top at window header. Then stick hardened flange to bottom of window sill and the pull on both sides of side of window making sure to take hands and wipe down the 2 side jams of window flange. Foam will ooz spend sides. Top and bottoms of all four sides. But no needs for worry have your helper to take a warm clean clothe and wipe clean window. There beutiful lady of a window installed by professionals. Another happy happy happy home owner.
yes! in fact that entire opening is waaaay too narrow. there should be 1/2 minimum all the way around the window. by the way tyvek over foam? its not incorrect per say, but its way harder to put on in the wind when you can only use cap nails. normally it would be stapled to the sheathing, which apparently this building doent have any as hes nailing it to the studs and theframed window sill is exposed. what the fuck is this guy doing?
Hi. As I research how to install house wrap, I have noticed a lot of talk regarding cap nails or staples in terms of keeping the water out when attaching the wrap. But, I’m thinking… as soon as the cedar shingles are installed over this air and water barrier, the house wrap then has hundreds of additional punctures wounds by the two nails per shingle. It seems a moot point. Same goes for Huber Zip System. Yes, there are no holes from from wrap attachment because there is none. But again, it gets riddled with potential leak hole from the shingles put over it.
I have seen it recommended when doing a rain drain siding to housewrap over the sheathing and then again over the rigid foam board, then apply the strapping for the siding. In which case what is the proper procedure around the window box with the first layer?
I would suggest you redo this video. Add a head flashing Learn to apply foam insulation in cavities. The foam should be sprayed in two application from the backside of the flange and a final coat to fill the gap. It should fill the gap completely.
nobody even noticed theres no sheathing on the walls. they just put 1 inch foam on the outside of the framing. crazy. hope youre dead on with those cap nails cause if not tuor gonna pounding holes through foam board. idiots.
The jury is still out, but "belt and suspenders" approach does not hurt. It can be either way ( www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/where-does-housewrap-go ) 1. Sheathing/wrap/rigid foam (wrap is nicely sandwiched and protected, foam provides extra water-resistive barrier (WRB) but is not critical 2. Sheathing/rigid foam/wrap 3. Sheathing/rigid foam; no housewrap - with 2+ layer staggered foam and all seams taped you can skip housewrap but it's cheap enough to include it, and not all foam types are approved for WRB, and some can also shrink over time creating gaps.
@@gratefulaya192 yes and a wrap of sum kind kinda required if you have any kinda caviry insulation!!! that said. 15 and 30 felt tar paper is also expectable in maney areas as it repels water. doesn't do nada for air but another option. oh and good luck on corners.
It would be wise to add a head drip flashing prior to folding the top piece you taped out of the way.
Does Residential Sealant adheres to Homewrap with no problem? Thank you
how did you flush up the window opening to the foam? if I use 2" foam over framing, do I bring the foam to the edge of the opening and nail the flange through the foam into the wood frame? or do I fur out the window frame opening and butt the foam up against that?
Im looking for an answer to the same question. If you figured it out could you answer for me ? or could anyone else ? It would be big time appreciated.
You get :-3 cans of foam make sure you get it in the 10 inch can. White cans only. Then you attach flange to top at window header. Then stick hardened flange to bottom of window sill and the pull on both sides of side of window making sure to take hands and wipe down the 2 side jams of window flange. Foam will ooz spend sides. Top and bottoms of all four sides. But no needs for worry have your helper to take a warm clean clothe and wipe clean window. There beutiful lady of a window installed by professionals. Another happy happy happy home owner.
Shouldn't the window have been shimmed up a bit to allow equal foam along the sill plate?
YES
The bottom of the window will always be cold
I use 3/8" ply blocks to elevate the window leaving 3/8" space all around for foam.
Yep
yes! in fact that entire opening is waaaay too narrow. there should be 1/2 minimum all the way around the window. by the way tyvek over foam? its not incorrect per say, but its way harder to put on in the wind when you can only use cap nails. normally it would be stapled to the sheathing, which apparently this building doent have any as hes nailing it to the studs and theframed window sill is exposed. what the fuck is this guy doing?
I was going to add this same comment. Also, FHB recommends caulking over the fin nail holes. Second, don't use sheetrock screws....
I wonder how hard it will be to replace this window.
Hi. As I research how to install house wrap, I have noticed a lot of talk regarding cap nails or staples in terms of keeping the water out when attaching the wrap. But, I’m thinking… as soon as the cedar shingles are installed over this air and water barrier, the house wrap then has hundreds of additional punctures wounds by the two nails per shingle. It seems a moot point. Same goes for Huber Zip System. Yes, there are no holes from from wrap attachment because there is none. But again, it gets riddled with potential leak hole from the shingles put over it.
Different vapor barrier for roof that addresses this.
I have seen it recommended when doing a rain drain siding to housewrap over the sheathing and then again over the rigid foam board, then apply the strapping for the siding. In which case what is the proper procedure around the window box with the first layer?
Thanks for sharing.
I would suggest you redo this video.
Add a head flashing
Learn to apply foam insulation in cavities.
The foam should be sprayed in two application from the backside of the flange and a final coat to fill the gap.
It should fill the gap completely.
nobody even noticed theres no sheathing on the walls. they just put 1 inch foam on the outside of the framing. crazy. hope youre dead on with those cap nails cause if not tuor gonna pounding holes through foam board. idiots.
I agree foam should be oozing from cracks and crevisis. Need a heavy application of foam. On all four corners. Then allow helper to clean window.
tyvek over foam is a waste. but you guys can't admit that, can you?
The jury is still out, but "belt and suspenders" approach does not hurt.
It can be either way ( www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/where-does-housewrap-go )
1. Sheathing/wrap/rigid foam (wrap is nicely sandwiched and protected, foam provides extra water-resistive barrier (WRB) but is not critical
2. Sheathing/rigid foam/wrap
3. Sheathing/rigid foam; no housewrap - with 2+ layer staggered foam and all seams taped you can skip housewrap but it's cheap enough to include it, and not all foam types are approved for WRB, and some can also shrink over time creating gaps.
my damn city code makes us use house wrap no matter what, so it doesn't matter if we use foam or OSB.
@@gratefulaya192 yes and a wrap of sum kind kinda required if you have any kinda caviry insulation!!! that said. 15 and 30 felt tar paper is also expectable in maney areas as it repels water. doesn't do nada for air but another option. oh and good luck on corners.