Installing Tyvek Weather Barrier House Wrap: How To Build A Shed ep 12
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- Come learn how you can build your own shed! In this video I show you how to properly install a weather, water and wind barrier house wrap using DuPont Tyvek.
NOTE: Several times in the video I erroneously refer to this as a "vapor barrier" - this is incorrect. This Tyvek wrap is a water and wind barrier, that specifically allows vapor to permeate though so that the structure can breathe. Sorry for any confusion!
This video series will show you step-by-step everything required to build an 8' x 16' shed. Are you going to build a shed too? Mash that subscribe button to follow along!
Materials needed:
Weather barrier of your choice
Seam tape
Painter's pole, pvc pipe, or long broom handle.
Nails or staples
Patience.
Tools required:
Razor Blade
Level
Hammer or Staple Gun
Ladders
#TyvekHomeWrap #InstallTyvek #DupontTyvek
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The painter's extendable pole is a great tip. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
or you could just get a case of beer and invite a friend over.
That's a good tip!
@@fiercenet I don’t have friends though.
Great tip. House wrap is always a good idea no matter what the building is building is being used for. It protects the sheathing if any water gets behind the finished siding.
Great job. It's important for people to realize that it prevents water from getting in but lets air breathe out. This is super important in Northern areas where you want a vapor barrier on the inside and let the air breathe out. If you're using ZIP system in the North you're doing it wrong.
This guy is an excellent teacher has some valuable home improvement videos. The one on the water heater maintenance was also good.
Everyone's always a critic. Thank you for showing us no matter what it's called 🙂
Excellent tip on the pole. I’ll definitely be using that. I am at the house wrap stage on my 12x16 shed. I’ve built it by myself, and I’ve scoured RUclips for tricks like this that might make it easier to work alone. Thanks for sharing.
This must be like a test of DIY manhood, lol. I too am embarking on my own 12x18 single-handed shed build and I am also scouring the RUclipss looking for one-man construction tips. The painters pole makes the list, for sure.
Loved your video. You explained in detail, including what type of fastener you used. Very few people mention that. You could also be an English teacher. Your speech and language is well synchronized for all to understand each and every bit you wanted to communicate. Your wife and kids are lucky to have a man like you in your family. Thanks for the lovely video.
Thank you!
Love the pole and clamp... Life just got so much easier. Thank you.
Great suggestions for us DYI ers. easy to follow and practical. Will listen to more of your videos. Thanks.
Thank you SO MUCH for the pole/clamp trick. Saved me hours of showing my true rookie tyvek status!!
So glad it was helpful!
Great video for learning the easy way...... the mistakes are humble teaching, good job!!
❤️ that is working smarter! That pole... takes the fear out of diy
Brilliant move with the wrap on the pole! Thank you!
Wow!! You made that look easy! Thanks for the vlog. 👍🏽🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟👍🏽
Awesome video. I have an elevated shed that I turned into a hunting box blind. I'm going to side it this spring and yes I will be putting wrap before the siding.
Awesome tips. Thank you very much!!
Love the painter pole idea!!!
Thank you for making this video now I can get to working on my shed.
Forgot to mention awesome video very informative thank you
Great video Brother, Thank you for sharing.
Agree, that'
s a patentable idea btw. Perfect the tool to do the job perfectly, and sell it at home improvement stores.
Thank you for this great video!
Great video , Like the pole trick,, If you dont nail the top of the rolls your nail hits both on the lap of the next roll and saves nails.
good Job. Thanks for sharing this video clip
Too late for you now, but I think I would have suggested shingling the bottom flange of the gable vent over the wrap. Any water coming down the face of the vent you want to have end up on the outside of the wrap. Thanks for sharing!
People wrap the whole building after framing. Go over windows and openings. Cut an x and fold over ledges/openings, going inside of the building. I tack on the inside, cut later. That way when windows/doors/vents are installed, all openings are covered. Tape the corners where they meet, this is where the leaks will come. . I’m in Telecom and I know this.
Helpful video! Thanks! 😁
good straight to the point and not to much bla bla bla . thanks
Great video, thanks!
Great info, Thanks!
Thanks for the tips
Great video .... thanks buddy !!
Great teaching video - thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips
Great Job.
Good job
Great video!!!
Thank you!!
Dude, the threshold trick is sooooooo bad ass!
Thanks, Chuck Norris!
Unwanted water is afraid to come into Chuck Norris' shed
@@chrischurch4551Hahaha this comment went unthumbed up? Hahaha your comment won the internet today (at least for me).
Great job!
Thank you! Cheers!
I can work with only my left hand. The clamp is the key to keep the roll steady so simple Thanks
Good tip
Glad you liked it!
nice, thanks
You do not have to nail only to studs. The OSB is the nailbase and code says you can nail right to it with the same fastener type and intervals as if you were nailing straight to framing, though few do that anymore.
to Cool! great ideas.. thanks 🙂
Glad you liked it!
nice video. Just a heads up that tyvek is an air barrier and moisture barrier, not a vapour barrier, as it is vapour permeable and designed that way. Vapour barrier is typically the poly that is stapled up inside over the insulation, in a northern climate anyways. Various other materials such as spray foam can also act as a vapour barrier opposed to the typical poly over insulation batts.
Nice trick. I’ve got a wrap job to do on a MH and can’t afford a helper. I’m certainly going to try this.
Hey Roland - I'd love to hear how it works out for you. Good luck with the wrap!
wow great trick
Thanks, Ramon!
Thank you for this video. We have a window that is only seen on the outside with drywall and insulation on the inside. I wanted to remove the window and close it to include plywood, siding and of course the wrap. This video gives me the perfect way on how to do it. I rather pay a friend to help me since the window is about 12 feet in the air. I'm sure a typical contractor would charge me hundreds to do it.
Glad it was helpful, and good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY it went great. I wish I could post before and after pics.
I always wonder how they wrap a house, we don’t wrap our houses back home when building it. Thanks for your video.
Excellent tips, thanks.
Are you using a drip edge flashing on the bottom of wall under the tyvek?
Great video with some very good tips. Did you need to cover roofing nails with the tape as well to prevent the moisture penetration?
Hi Andy - no, as long as the siding is installed correctly, there is little concern about moisture getting in through the nail holes. Great question, and thanks for watching!
Help. I'm purchasing a TuffShed which I will finish as a tiny cottage in Phoenix, AZ. I asked why the TuffShed rep marked that I would not be insulting it. He said so I would get the radiant barrier. Otherwise I'd only get the house wrap. The radiant barrier is supposed to keep the shed cooler. What are your thoughts?
Vapor barrier also protects the wood sheets from water.
What do you do if your shed is on concrete blocks? Where to attach at the bottom edge?
If you are using a level you should turn it overol as you go down the wall. If level is off a little it is more a currarse as it re sets every time you turn overol or end to end.
Great tip, Eileen!
Painters pole is good as long as the ground surrounding the structure is all relatively leveled out at the same height all the way around. When I work alone with just the little 3 foot rolls I get my starting edge stapled in well at the right height, roll out roughly 4 feet hold the roll up and taught with my left hand then staple a row with my right and continue all the way around. Follow up after the row is fully in and cut to length and finish tacking it in everywhere
When you’re working with the 9’ rolls though good luck doing that alone I always get someone to help me out with them
Yeah, with the bigger rolls, you'll definitely need an extra set of hands. Thanks for watching!
Instead of folding (thus wasting) such expensive tape, put a nail or paper clip on the end, instead. You can still peel it back up later but you don't have to cut off the folded edge :)
Good tip - thanks Simply Saida!
I use those little plastic clips from the bags on loaves of bread, rolls etc on ALL of my rolls of tape.
Just used your pole tricks! Genius! Did you tape the very bottom of the wrap to the shed? Or does that stay open? Also what about the very top?
Glad my tip was useful! I believe I did tape the top, but not the bottom as I let the wrap extend about a quarter inch below the bottom edge of the wall sheeting. When I installed the siding I let it extend another quarter inch below the wrap. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Phew, That's exactly what I did!
The ICC-ESR number is: 2375, this has the “Manufacturers printed installation instructions”
How did you finish off the top edges? Did you place the wrap over the top boards and/or tape?
Hi Joseph - I ran the Tyvek all the way up the wall above where the soffit would land, then taped it flush. Thanks for watching!
Hi! I have never built anything, and im loving this american way of building (Im from mexico). In other videos builders tape or seal the sheathing, was there a reason why you didnt tape or seal the sheathing? Thanks!
Frankly, I didn't tape the sheathing because I'm not trying to build a "tight" building. This is just a shed. However, opinions are also mixed on whether taping sheathing is a good idea or not. The point of taping sheathing is to add another layer of vapor barrier, but taping OSB is not a great idea, as moisture cannot permeate it as well as regular plywood.
I think the rule of thumb is that if you are building a house and trying to make it as tight as possible, and you are using plywood for the sheathing, go ahead and tape the seams.
Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY maybe he seen zip sheathing
I seen someone have this on there house for a couple of years , you think this will hold up good against rain and snow ?
A couple of YEARS without any siding? That’s not a good idea at all. Sunlight breaks this stuff down. It should not be left uncovered for very long-I forget how long, exactly, but I believe it is something like a maximum of 90 days.
Nice work. When the bottom edge of the wrap is nailed those nails also support the top edge of the lapped wrap. Use minimal nails or another method like tape to hold top edge in place until the bottom edge of over-lapping sheet is nailed down. Saves nails and reduces holes. Hope you sealed the cut ends of the treated wood.
+Michael Dvorak good tip on using the fasteners athe the bottom of a row to secure the top of the row below. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Thank you, and your welcome.
What are your thoughts on a standard wrap like tyvek vs zip system?
They are different tools for different jobs. Zip system provides some insulation as well as moisture protection, so it's great on a house. However, it's also more expensive and some would argue more difficult (or at least time consuming) to install. For a shed, I think Zip is the wrong choice. However, if I was building a new house, I'd probably try to insist on using Zip. Great question!
Do you just leave the tyvek wrap up as weatherproofing against water? Does it protect untreated wood? And how long will that last? I guess what I'm asking is would this be a temporary solution or long term against rain and weather?
It’s left on forever, but covered with siding pretty quickly. It’s meant to be sandwiched between the osb and siding, to provide a moisture barrier. It should not be left out exposed to sunlight for more than a few weeks.
Look up 100 year wall. It breaks down the philosophy of wall layers that manages weather, moisture, temperature, etc...
The materials behind the wall panel will last as long or longer than the outer panels if done right.
Did you wrap the top of the window inwards? Didn't quite see the details. Be careful as it's supposed to shingle over the top of openings.
Actually, yes, I did wrap the top of the window inwards because the window I installed did not have a flange to overlap. When I installed the windows, I put in a drip edge that I taped along the top edge to the tyvek - it's not necessarily the best way to do it, but in this case it'll be fine. Thanks for watching!
Hi. Did you tape the bottom edge of the Tyvek also?
Hi Blair - no, I did not tape the bottom edge of the tyvek. I only taped seams between pieces of tyvek. Good question, and thanks for watching!
Great video ! Just wondering , did you tape the bottom of the wrap to the concrete ?
Heya SneakyPete - no I did not tape it to the concrete. You want to leave the bottom set up so that any moisture that collects between the Tyvek and the OSB will have a place to drain. Taping the Tyvek to the concrete provides a place for it to pool. Great question, and thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Awesome , thank you
I understand why you didn’t tape it to the concrete, but won’t this allow water to come in from below? Say, you have a lot of rain at on time and it pools up on the ground.
What is the ICC-ESR number for Tyvek paper?
When the roll runs out and you need to have a vertical lap, how much do you overlap the vertical?
I'd recommend at least 16"... but check with Tyvek. They have good instructions on their website.
I don't see any video of how you secured the top or bottom edges.
is one roll enough for a 15ft x 15ft shed? Idk how much to get and where to get it from, Home Depot you said? lol
Hi Aaron - depends on how much actual square footage you need. As I recall, I used less than 1 full roll, and this was an 8x16 shed, though most of the 8' sides were door openings that did not need the weather barrier. I believe I picked mine up at Lowes, but any home improvement store should carry it. Good luck!
Hello, can i drill a hole Through the barrier wrap for power cable, without compromise it to much or seal it some how after the cable is Through?
Yes, drilling a hole through it should not be a problem at all. However, usually you would sheet or install siding on the outside of the wrap layer, then run your electrical. That way you only have to drill through everything once.
Any electricians out there who can chime in with better advice?
@@AmplifyDIY thank you very much.
Yes as long as you layer the Tyvek so rain can run off and around the outlet, much like you would form house wrap around a window or door.
@@vikingofengland hi, the problem is the shed is completely build and i have no chance to wrap anything anymore over a cable, 1 was thinking to drill a hole straight throughout the shed wall and put silicone around the cable on the outside and inside the hole.
@@WaschyNumber1 I see sorry misunderstood your post. The only thing I can suggest is to fit a weather proof electrical box on the outside and run the cable inside to that. I am thinking of something that is IP rated with maybe a socket to plug in from the outside or run conduit to. You could also fit a drip edge trim above it to direct water over it for extra protection.
What finish are you putting? Stucco or Siding
Siding - hardiboard. Thanks for watching!
Maybe I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that Tyvek tape is just USPS packing tape, it feels and smells exactly the same. Next time I'll probably just use that.
Tyvek's marketing department would like to have a word.
Lol
Is there a specific exterior side (Tyvek identification) or can I reverse it so the exterior is white without the labeling. Mine is for a cottage shed and I doubt I will be adding siding so prefer a solid white colour.
According to the FAQ on DuPont's site about Tyvek: the direction for HouseWrap does not matter. However, for you the bigger issue is that sunlight will break down the wrap relatively quickly over time. It should be permanently covered within 120 days.
More info here:www.dupont.com/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems/faqs/wb-faq.html
well it depends on the inside walls vapor barrier! at most house wrappings we get in norway at least is designd to LET MOISTURE OUT OF THE WALL!
If you turn it it will let moisture in but not out and you risk the walls turn in to a rotting pool.
i have seen it first hand on a shrimp boiling factory where the beams in the wall and roof turnd in to dirt and the building collapsed after 4,5 years. hehe
but they didnt have vapor barriors ore wrapping on any side,, but the roof and outside walls was sheet metal,, and the inside was some sort of plastic plates.
not a god combination... when we rebuildt the building we used corrosion coated metal beams insted of wood, hehe
@@samkom33 Why ignore, and actually contradict, the answer by the OP and the manufacturer's claim he links to?
@@WeTubule im not ignoring ore contradicting anything. hehe
Im just saying that things can go wrong if you use things the wrong way!
the most modern shrimp boiling factorys i have visited didnt have moisture problems becouse they use chimneys with fans over each boiling station sucking out the moisture, while convertors inside the chimneys heated the dry air coming in becouse of the vacum created by the fans.
@@samkom33 The question was about which side of Tyvek to face outward. According to OP and to the DuPont link there is no "wrong way". (So your warning is false and contradicts them.)
Semi-permiable membranes such as Tyvek and Gortex do not have one-way properties. They block liquid water both directions and permit water vapour both directions.
yo could have nailed both top and bottom where they overlap with same screw.
Good tip. Thanks!
Is there an alternative to the Tyvek tape?
There may be other WRB (weather resistive barrier) tapes out there that may work, but the adhesive in the Tyvek tape is specifically engineered not to lose adhesion with the weather barrier over time and through temperature extremes.
Definitely don’t use packing tape or duct tape, it just won’t hold up.
There are. HOWEVER, Tyvek does specify with the installation instructions they issue their Tyvek WRB tape so for safety's sake we usually go with it, plus the alternatives we had commercially available were only about a $2 cost savings per roll and we only needed 4 rolls at $12.
Do you know how hurricane resistant are these houses?
I don't know - I was not considering hurricanes when I built this shed, as I don't live in an area where they occur.
Quick question. Why not use a 9ft tall roll of house wrap and not have to tape the joints? instead of 3ft sections. Save time and money on the expensive tape.
Hi Tim - I considered it, but my walls were not that tall. Hanging it would be considerably more difficult, as I'd have to pull out the full length of a wall on the ground in my back yard, then cut off a long strip about a foot or so wide all the way along one edge, then drag that whole thing over to the shed where I'd have to wrestle it into position. It was just SO much easier to use the smaller widths and overlap. Thanks for watching!
AmplifyDIY, you should extend your index finger down the side of a handsaw. That is the correct way to hold a saw and gives you greater control. You will find cutting a lot easier and you will get better results.
Good tip, thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥
Very good instruction video. 1 question: why not use a (hammer) stapler? Or are these nails recommended by Dupont?
Hi Colonel Mustard,
Lots of people use staplers to attach Tyvek, but they can tear through in a stiff breeze. These nails make it nearly impossible to rip a hole through the Tyvek. If you know you'll be getting your siding installed quickly and there won't be much wind, staples are fine.
@@AmplifyDIY Thanx for the info. Was just wondering. Again, you make great videos.
Technically you're only supposed to tape seems that go vertical not horizontal. You don't want to have a water trap if you have an interior leak
Good tip, thanks!
Aren't you meant to install Tyvek over 1/2" battens to create moisture drip layer?
Battens??? What do you mean??
I noticed my builder used a lot of regular staples to install the wrap. Is there a concern with that?
Staples are ok, as long as the siding goes up pretty quickly. The concern with staples is if the tyvek is left out in windy conditions the staples may tear through, leaving larger holes.
@@AmplifyDIY thank you for the reply. So they are installing a metal mesh on top of the tyvek drainwrap for stucco later in the year. I am guessing that should be enough to hold the wrap in place?
@@stevestevenson3633 Yes, that should be fine. You just don't want the Tyvek flapping in the wind - as long as it is held securely it'll be fine. Good luck with your house!
@@AmplifyDIY awesome thank you!
What type of treated lumber is that?
Hey Nathaniel - good question! The only treated lumber in the shed is the bottom plates of the walls. They are just pressure treated 2x4’s, picked up at either Lowes or Home Depot - I don’t recall which.
Thanks!
@@AmplifyDIY Thanks, it just looks brown and I thought treated lumber usually has a greenish color.
+Nathaniel Bradley I’m pretty sure that Lowes has one color and HD carries another. I’m not positive, but I think HD’s is the greener kind.
After vapor barrier what is the next step of construction?
Siding. I have a whole playlist that covers every step in the build of this shed.
Did you tape over the nails?
Hi Refugee - no, there is no need. Thanks for watching!
Do you paint over it next?
Hi WalkPastime - no, next is to install siding: ruclips.net/video/QpXslCwUrXI/видео.html
I have a whole playlist of how I built this shed that shows each step in order here: ruclips.net/video/hLePzShui4Y/видео.html
Can I use this in the basement Interior walls against the concrete as a moisture barrier. If yes then does it matter which side is facing the concrete?. Tx
No, you really should not use Tyvek there. Here's more info: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/25428/should-i-use-tyvek-or-tar-paper-on-basement-walls
Is this the same process for a house? & is your roof vented?
Hi Ken - yes, same process for a house. My shed has gable vents at the tops of both gable walls, very near the roof line. The roof itself does not have gable vents in it.
@@AmplifyDIY Can this be insulated and turned into a tiny house? Would insulating your roof cause any mositure problems in cold climates?
Hi Ken - the way I built this, yes, you could insulate this shed and make it climate controlled. As tiny houses go, though, this one is REALLY tiny. The footprint is only 8' x 16', or 128 square feet. It would be very difficult to fit a basic kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, and living space in such a small footprint. Also, you would need to deal with moisture build up in the roof as you mention, probably by adding a full-length gable vent along the roof ridge in addition to the soffit vents I installed. This would allow you to insulate the roof and have a finished ceiling. You'd also need to use exterior-grade insulated doors with a proper threshold, etc.
Does Tyvec not come in 8 foot tall? I can only find 9 foot but my walls are 8 foot tall
Hi William - I'm not sure of the sizes it comes in. If you ask around at your local suppliers they will know for sure what they carry. In your case, if all you can find is 9' rolls I'd suggest buying that and trimming off the extra foot as you install. Good luck!
How about using flex tape?
Hi Jamie - I'm not familiar enough with flex tape to be able to recommend one way or the other. Will it hold up to decades of large temperature swings and potential water ingress?
It's not a vapor barrier. Vapor barriers have a perm rating of less than 1. Tyvek has a perm rating of around 58. It is a great product for cooler drier climates. If we are going to be completely scientifically accurate, it is a WRB which stands for Weather Resistive Barrier. It's designed to block bulk solid water, while controlling moisture vapor (humidity) which collects and condenses inside the wall. It is only an air barrier if you seal it completely at the top plate and bottom plates.
Yup, I misspoke when I called it a vapor barrier. Thanks for the extra info!
If you dont have a vapor barrier on your shed when it was built, can you still install a vapor barrier several years down the line, then convert it to an insulated workshop? or is it too late being exposed to moisture at that point?
Hi Tony - you can install a vapor barrier, but you'll need to pull off the siding to do it properly. Good luck!
Stupid question here. Is the tape necessary in this process?
For me, it's somewhere between required and a really good idea. For things that will be covered with other layers of stuff and will be difficult to correct in the future, I tend to do my best to stick to the manufacturer recommendations - which are to use the tape.
Wow, any tape would work or staples, your siding will cover all of that anyways.
So this might be a complete waste of material, but would it make any sense to attach a piece of tyvek wrap around the bottom of the sheathing before installing maybe 6" up either side to create a complete wrap under the bottom of the sheathing? I'm thinking of minimizing moisture exposure at the bottom of my wall, even with vinyl siding installed over it. Or would that just be a complete waste?
That's an interesting idea, but I would not do it. If you wrap the tyvek under the bottom edge of the sheathing and back up the inside of the sheathing, you'll effectively create a trough at the bottom of the sheathing where water can pool. The tyvek is there to encourage the water to roll down and drip off the outside, and it also allows water vapor to permeate through from the inside to the outside, so that the inside does not become overly damp. In my case, I simply let the tyvek overhang the bottom edge of the sheathing by an inch or so, and then placed the siding such that it overhung the bottom of the tyvek by another inch or so. This effectively creates a nice shedding path for any water which does manage to make its way behind the siding without any possibility of it collecting or pooling anywhere.
I hope that all makes sense. Good luck with your project!
@@AmplifyDIY that' an excellent point and weeping holes probably wouldn't do much to let anything drain if there was an issue. I think I'm going to opt for pressure treated plywood for the bottom 2' of my wall for a bit more protection. Just trying to make sure this shed (which will be around water sprinklers) is as protected as possible. Thanks for the video!
Sounds sensible. Good luck!
Ok ... I would go for a MAN CAVE buddy... !!!