My experience with good wall insulation/sealing is then the windows become the colder areas. But worst is the fogging around the bottoms - frost - ice I would like to see / hear those solutions for this. Double pane vinyl isn’t it ! Lower humidity either ! I think we need to update n upgrade here !
Awesome video, I wish they were all like this. Note that some details are important, e.g.: (1) You do really want to use cap nails or cap staples (as shown), not regular staples. (2) Don't skip rolling the tape with a J roller to get it to adhere well. (3) The special DrainWrap is indeed superior to standard HomeWrap when you're installing under foamboard.
When building up the frames around the window, what are the specific steps to make those water tight? Am I caulking around the bottom of the jam buildup and then the trim to the wall and then trim to siding? Otherwise this was easily the best instructional video I have seen.
@@johnbutter7305 I did not, I went with installation basically just like this although I did tape with the tyvek tape the board to the window flange on all four sides. I don't know if this is correct but it seemed to make sense to stop air infiltration
You taped what board to the window flange? This process looks ok except the furring strips are too close to the window nailing flange. You don’t want to nail through and add leak paths through the window nailing flange which could get inside. The window build out box is kind of weird.
Replacing that window is going to be time consuming. You have to cut through the insulation and remove multiple layers of tape and caulk and then figure out how to put it all together again while keeping the drainage plain intact.
if over and water/humidity goes behing foam panels , your sheating will be exposed ( no gap between ply/osb and foam ) . if Air barrier ( rain wrap ) is under the panels , it will protect the ply/osb allowing the water/humidity to dry .
Nope, foam first, frame oyg windows, do window flashing protocols as per regular on "outie" windows ...no confusion. Wrb ahiukd ve directly behind cladding
Don't like the recessed window. Cuts down on viewing angle from inside, and wasted an opportunity to have deep interior sills which most people like. Build out the window frame with Zip R 12 to get thermal break and the additional push out to butt the insulation flush against.
Yes, but I wonder here in Canada if we can get Zip R sheathing? I am looking around, in Atlantic Canada, and what homedepot has is this product shown in vid, the grey coloured. And double yes, Build OUT that WINDOW! I follow Matt Risinger YT vids. He uses Joseph Lstiburek Engineer , science building techniques. Hope we can find a contractor who has experience with outer envelope insulating and making sure those window sills are water tight...patience galore is needed to get construction done on a home. Glad this video is available for viewing, cheers East Canada
+DuPontWeatherization Do you know what the component is at the base of the OSB? It looks like a grey drip channel of sorts although I dont see a mention of it anywhere in the details.
Rain screen furring is the stupidest thing they've come up with yet to increase the cost of building. If you get rain behind the siding you didn't do it right in the first place.
Wow, this was the perfect video to show how the material is laid.
finally the instructions i've been searching for the past 3 months!
Please supply information on firing strips used
My experience with good wall insulation/sealing is then the windows become the colder areas. But worst is the fogging around the bottoms - frost - ice I would like to see / hear those solutions for this. Double pane vinyl isn’t it ! Lower humidity either ! I think we need to update n upgrade here !
wow, if only every how-to video was like this
Thanks GrandPixel!
Awesome video, I wish they were all like this. Note that some details are important, e.g.:
(1) You do really want to use cap nails or cap staples (as shown), not regular staples.
(2) Don't skip rolling the tape with a J roller to get it to adhere well.
(3) The special DrainWrap is indeed superior to standard HomeWrap when you're installing under foamboard.
When building up the frames around the window, what are the specific steps to make those water tight? Am I caulking around the bottom of the jam buildup and then the trim to the wall and then trim to siding?
Otherwise this was easily the best instructional video I have seen.
YT Did you ever get a reply? I have the same question.
@@johnbutter7305 I did not, I went with installation basically just like this although I did tape with the tyvek tape the board to the window flange on all four sides. I don't know if this is correct but it seemed to make sense to stop air infiltration
You taped what board to the window flange? This process looks ok except the furring strips are too close to the window nailing flange. You don’t want to nail through and add leak paths through the window nailing flange which could get inside. The window build out box is kind of weird.
YT This how I think I’m going to do it: ruclips.net/video/vsDKqvY23lk/видео.html
@@johnbutter7305 yes I wish I would have done it this way! My way sucks compared to this
They forgot to tape the joints of the foam insulation, at around the 2:00 mark in the video.
Replacing that window is going to be time consuming. You have to cut through the insulation and remove multiple layers of tape and caulk and then figure out how to put it all together again while keeping the drainage plain intact.
Metal flashing over and under windows missing....an important detail
This video is from before there was sound.
Past times now it's future times
What was that at 2:15 and at 2:23 around the window. It doesn’t explain. I thought that after the foam it was just tape and siding.
this is an excellent video. very helpful.
why not go over foamboard? seems like a win win, your thoughts?
if over and water/humidity goes behing foam panels , your sheating will be exposed ( no gap between ply/osb and foam ) . if Air barrier ( rain wrap ) is under the panels , it will protect the ply/osb allowing the water/humidity to dry .
@@alexbigwata2638 i was wondering the same thing.
very good video
Nope, foam first, frame oyg windows, do window flashing protocols as per regular on "outie" windows ...no confusion. Wrb ahiukd ve directly behind cladding
great product
A Thermal Buck should be used here to prevent thermal bridgeing.
Super.
Lewis Frank Hall Jason White Donald
You don't need house wrap if you're using exterior foam board.
Don't like the recessed window. Cuts down on viewing angle from inside, and wasted an opportunity to have deep interior sills which most people like. Build out the window frame with Zip R 12 to get thermal break and the additional push out to butt the insulation flush against.
Yes, but I wonder here in Canada if we can get Zip R sheathing? I am looking around, in Atlantic Canada, and what homedepot has is this product shown in vid, the grey coloured. And double yes, Build OUT that WINDOW! I follow Matt Risinger YT vids. He uses Joseph Lstiburek Engineer , science building techniques. Hope we can find a contractor who has experience with outer envelope insulating and making sure those window sills are water tight...patience galore is needed to get construction done on a home. Glad this video is available for viewing, cheers East Canada
Viewing angle? C’mon man! Recessed windows make your house stand out.
What
Thanks bgregg551!
+DuPontWeatherization Do you know what the component is at the base of the OSB? It looks like a grey drip channel of sorts although I dont see a mention of it anywhere in the details.
Rain screen furring is the stupidest thing they've come up with yet to increase the cost of building. If you get rain behind the siding you didn't do it right in the first place.
Overkill !! House needs to be able to breath!!!!
That's what the Drainwrap and vented furring strips are for. Breathes like crazy.
@@zmccllc2096 yeah sure
@@junkyarddawgs9956 watch the cold weather climate youtube for alaska or canada. push vapor barrior to the outside.
Get real your contractor will not do this lengthy work. Tyvek Materials are expensive.
overkill