Things Most Ski-Doo REVs Need Fixed (from factory)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- If you have a Ski-Doo REV platform machine from 2003-2007, you'll probably want to do at least one of these fixes to your machine "before" you end up stuck on the trail. I hope this video saves some headaches! More recent sleds may also have some of these issues. But I hope not.
Disclaimer
This video is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The content creator is “not” claiming that the techniques used in this video are the only nor safest means of DIY building, repair, maintenance, etc. This video is merely a representation of one means chosen in this circumstance by this person. When in doubt about a project, please contact a professional. There are many more ways to improve safety and efficiency than those presented in this video. Retrospect is a useful educational opportunity. If you have any tips or suggestions on how to improve on the DIY techniques used, please post in the comments section.
Thanks for the tip on the radiator Cap.
Mine clearly out of round and I struggle to get the cap on.
The insert is brilliant... Thanks
I've had problems with the oil cap until i put a sleeve inside like you did with the rad cap. Night and day difference and never had a problem since
I have a 2007 GSX SDI 600. I keep the starter lubricated with a good spray weekly. A new belt needs a break in period to perform well and last longer. I also lubricate the throttle bodies, the oil injector & springs you showed, the throttle cable and the suspension. If you're gong to change springs of any kind to aftermarket, just be careful how much they affect the performance, especially anything to do with the engine. It's good you look the sled over and look for any way to improve it. Maintenance gets you back home. :)
Also keep the battery connections clean and apply some dielectric grease.
Nice: "Maintenance gets you back home." I'm going to use that!
lol... you should try throttling a 97,98,99 ski doo with dual 40 to 44 mikunis all day. you got it made.
I was thinking the same thing. Lol
Awesome video, very useful info. Do you have any other videos with this machine?
You sound like eric the car guy. Good video don't have a skidoo but gotta switch from Yamaha
Now I want to go clean my engine.
I like your channel man been there since last year wasn’t expecting to see you here haha
I have an 05 600. Mine doesn’t have a starter. Is it possible to easily add one?
You are the guy that calls the dealer 110 times with questions and looses sleep over a spring.
Ha. As if the dealer would know anything about it. You're funny.
Hey great vid!
Do you have P/N for those front shocks? Also, did you upgrade the center and rear shock too?
Sorry. No P/N for those. I went to a local guy who specializes in shocks (rebuildable shocks). Yes, the centre-rears did eventually get upgraded, as well as springs (doing one but not the other less than ideal). Shocks are silly expensive so shopping around locally with people who do it professional (rebuild them) proved the best deal.
I was hoping you could show more detail on issue number 2.......Thanks
1st thing I noticed was the vForce reeds...lol.
Is there an American part number for the coolant sleeve I’ve looked and can’t find it
Sorry. I got it through a Canadian distributor. No specific part number on part.
I have a possibly silly question, I’m going over my daughters Rev for winter (2005) and the Belt has a mark on the outside that looks like the Bendix is extending out while it’s running and hitting the belt. Sounds strange I know.
My question would be if you had any of that issue before you changed that spring?
I’m also in canada, Ontario.
Thanks for any reply.
If the belt was up on the clutch really high I guess it might be a possible problem. Unfortunately that is one of the few problems I've never had so I cannot comment. Could it be the wrong starter (wrong model)? Therefore sticking out just a little to far (too long?)? Tough call. I hope you get a solution.
I have a 2005 1000 and have a problem with it on my last ride last year with it shutting down & then the Ele start won’t start it back up but I wiggled the fuse wires & the fuse is melted buy the battery but it did start back up, any suggestions or videos on the fuse by the battery on what to do? I would appreciate it.
When things start melting in terms of electric I take it to the pros. Too many ways to burn the unit down. It's worth the cost of a dealership.
I took panty hose and rubber banded it to the round inlet hole so nothing gets in there.. also the pre filter I did..I can't believe when I open the side panel, once it was a price of straw, then foam from the pre filter and brake dust...
what about the Boots for the Carb intakes - they are probablimatic as well prones to cracks and may need replacement
Yep. Good point. I needed to replace mine too.
Just changed mine on my Can Am Outlander. Huge performance improvement. For 63 bucks I hopebit lasts.
Hey my skidoo is nothing this what did u do to fix it
looks like you changed the reed valves. i was told they had problems with the factory ones
It is one of those things most people seem to do early on. Sadly it ain't cheap. Better safe ...
A lot of starter bendix stick cause nobody lubes them causing issues.
Hi, Do you have a part number/supplier for those tunnel braces ? thanks
Sorry. No. Those are from a few years ago.
@@TheGarage656 thanks
how do you keep your engine so clean
josh obrien hes doesn't ride it, lol
Or someone had sled fully apart, probably for the 9th engine swap or rebuild, lol and yhey powerwashed the shit outa it to find some sucker to buy it cause it was clean. Truth
Chrome cleaner for wheels works wonders ... just be careful with the water and dry the area extremely well after. I'd only wash it when it is out of the sled.
Use your tongue and the shit out of it
Fyi, extra oil going through the motor wont cause a lean condition. The oil and fuel are fed through completely separate systems. The worst thing you’ll do is foul spark plugs. It’s more wasteful than anything. Good oil isn’t cheap!
According to Wiseco, that is precisely why you don't add extra oil when breaking in an engine after installing new top end.....so either they are wrong, or you are.
@@davidstephenson7194 in their case you dont want to add extra oil during break in because the rings they use are made of a harder metal than most and take much longer to break in. The extra oil makes rings take longer to break in on any motor. Synthetic oil is also not recommended during break in because it prevents faster ring seating due to superior lubricating properties. If you dont break in wiseco rings before riding your engine hard they can expand too much and bind up in the cylinder causing major piston damage. Once they are worn in the ring gap will be large enough to allow for proper heat expansion during high engine loading.
Put a powerbloc 80 primary clutch on there less moving parts equals cooler clutch and itll go faster
Skidoo primary clutches are actually pretty nice. You can adjust ramp angles on the trail really easily from the factory with ‘clicker’ adjustments.
My 2006 renegade 800 has this weird thingy going on where it has a clicking sound every time i speed up. Do you have any tips on what it might be. I have already checked throught the clutch and didn't find anything wrong with it.
Sorry. No idea. It typically takes a lot of trial and error to locate noises. So many pieces ...
@@TheGarage656 okay, I am pretty sure it's the bendix that is making the sound. I ordered a new one and hopefully it will fix the issues. Anyways thank you for helping my situation:)
If it's your bending you should see wear on your ring gear.
@@warddan2002 I changed the whole bendix and it stopped for a while. I don't know if it still does it, because I sold the sled a few weeks ago
2003-2007
I am having issues with my elec start on my 2005
Water in your oil will not dry out with cap off! When riding and shacking around it DOES mix and it will go thru your pump and into motor and try to burn it! No Good! Drain it out and start over with the skidoo cap. Another thing, these motors get no oil to bottom end, bearings are packed grease! So thats another reason they want these motors using extra oil, cause the bottom end is non lubed and they hope the excess unburn oil will eventually drip down to bottom end and somewhat help lube the 2 center bearings that ARENT changeable unless u buy a reman crank! Crank is 2pc and need special alignment blocks to basically time crank when pressed back together after bearing swap. Not many do this, thats why u just spend 800-1000 on a reman. Let that motor EAT OIL! Itll be the only saving grace for it! Good luck
Log on to REV Nation on FB if u want true rider tips and fixes. Not a fourm that shit the bed with kids on these sleds
If you are referring to the return spring on the oil pump arm, I'm not sure that I follow you. The purpose of the spring is to make sure the oil arm is doing exactly what you want (returning correctly). That's all. The amount of oil that enters the engine is then entirely controlled by the oil cable adjuster (a pain to adjust perfectly). Without the spring, the amount of oil (if the oil pump starts to fail open, or merely weaken with time) is guess work. In my case the return spring made a huge difference, which means I am only now able to regulate oil to factory specs. The oil cap is another story ... still not trusting it entirely.
Garage Philosopher weather u have that spring on or not, when the pump fails, it fails open inside. Not by the outer arm. All that spring is for is to return to neutral so to say when u let of throttle. Nothing more. If adding that spring changed oil usage then something else is wrong, or its making it too lean, not enough oil. And it will blow up in sooner time. These 800s were problematic, the good dealers that know these motors adj them to use extra oil compared to factory setting, just cause they had so many issues. A good day of riding, u should be using around half a tank. 140-180mi day. Any less these motors dont last if u ride them hard
not supposed to get coolant on my hands... guess us heavy equipment techs who fix rads and hoses on the fly are kinda fucked lol
was lol'ing at this as well
Too much oil causes a lean condition? Wrong!!! And what you said about water in the oil is totally wrong, it will go to the bottom of the oil reservoir and freeze, causing your engine to seize. Same thing happens with water in your gas tank, water is heavier than both gas and oil.
Uh oh ski-doo re-doo?
Well lady u spray everything. Why don't u spray your belt. With belt dressing
Cancel the oil pump n mix your gaz
LOL coolant does not chew through paint
Depends on who you listen to on the topic. Seems to be some debate online, especially for older paint. I'm not about to find out myself.
@@TheGarage656 It might do damage on paint from before the 80's but nothing will happen on any sleds this new.
Holy man buy a new sled, all these problems are gone now plus 850 etec is key
you paid 30 bucks for 2 TINY springs???????????
30 bucks is the cheapest thing on the entire sled. I'm not sure if I could even buy a bolt for it that costs less. Maybe a half a bolt. Nah.
i mean, not really
Throw away that cheap oil cap #1
Extra oil in gas is not LEAN condition! It makes it RICH! On skidoo motors, specially those PowerTek 800s after they blow up, a GOOD dealer that rebuilds it turns up the pump to use MORE oil and adds Fuel , so they wont BLOW up again, causing the sled to use a lot of oil and get around 10-12mpg on gas! So the 2 fixes u just did, might help cause a catastrophic failure to your poorly designed 800 Donkey motor. Just sayin! Went thru 3 800 , buddy 2 , till we found the right dealer that knew these motors from rebuilding tons of them. The 2 sleds we bought new from 06 one made it 800mi, the other made it 1700 before blowing up/ burning down cause lean tuning from factory.
I beg to differ. I will agree most people talk about rich and lean being the ratio of oil and gas. So more oil equals a rich oil mixture. However once that mixture starts burning it becomes the opposite. The more oil you have in the mix means less fuel that is being burned in the engine. That creates a lean condition. It took me a while to comprehend this.
Kwmike-D the factory should pay for a new one! I’ve heard a lot of bad stuff about the 800.
Tristan Munger that is wrong. Like 50:1 ratio is leaner than 32:1. I’ve always ran my race bikes with more oil than recommend before fouling which also brings up compression by a little cause it seals better. There has been research on this method later on as well. Never have I blew up my motors and they look good when tore down.
The 800 is definitely junk. But a skidoo 600 will last 10k miles or better
@@tristanmunger157 in a EFI sled that is correct
*03-07
freak
you need to sell it you worry to much about everything!!!!!!!!!!!!drive the fing sled
Nuns lol cheap bullshit chassis
Say three hail Mary's and stop playing with yourself.