Well this certainly explained to me how rifle dies are designed to work if used correctly. My reloading press is a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP. All of my dies for 9mm and .45 ACP are Hornady with the addition of a Lee Factory Crimp die for each. Thankfully I ran across a video last year that explained why it is better to use a Lee factory crimp die and not the Hornady crimp which is incorporated into the bullet seating die. After watching this video, when I get ready to expand my reloading capabilities to include 30-06 and Rem .223 I will defiantly be going with Lee dies which work great on the Hornady Lock-n-Load press with the bushing system that it has. Yet again, I have more valuable Knowledge that you have provided me. Thank you sir!! I think that I should insist to my 25 year old son to watch all of your hand loading videos as a prerequisite before I show and teach him what I know as he learns the process of reloading. Thanks again!!
I agree about Lee dies. When I started loading, I bought all brands, and although I don't buy many these days, Lee is the first maker that I shop. Initially, I thought they must be cheap in quality, because the price was so reasonable compared with other manufacturers. When I used them, I realized how great they were. I love being able to charge the case during the expanding operation on straight wall cases. Great video. Thanks as always.
Proverbs 27:17 Iron sharpeneth iron; So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof: So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured. Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Wow! I'm just getting into reloading. I was like most other people... I just assumed that Lee dies were inferior, because of the price. They're actually innovative, in several aspects. I'll be looking to buy some Lee dies, for ease of extracting a stuck case, and for the genius engineering of them. Plus, I'll save quite a few bucks. This video was VERY helpful.
I know this is years late, but ... I've been reloading for 40 years and I've used Lee Products for about 40 of those years (I started with a .303Br Lee Loader I bought at a flea market), even though I've been laughed at for 40 years. But here is a company customer story. About 10 years ago, I had an issue with my neck-sizer die. I was using it for .303Br cases on a turret press (NOT the Classic Cast press). I had already loaded a dozen cases and was working on another, when my wife came downstairs to see me. I stopped what I was doing and when she left, I began again. I could not get the case into the die, no matter how hard I pushed. And, believe me, I pushed. Suddenly, the press made a loud pop and the turret jumped about 6 inches in the air. The turret was bent and my press was broken. I called Lee Precision and was honest with them. This was a second-hand press I had had for 10 years. It came to me with one of the cams already cracked, but it never caused a problem. What had I done? I emailed pictures as well. The person I spoke with told me to pack it all up and send it to them and if it was determined to be faulty, they would fix it. Packed up the press, the turret with the dies still in it, and the case I was trying to size (it was crushed), sent it from Alberta, Canada to Wisconsin. Three weeks later, I got it back with a letter explaining what had happened. I had started the case up into the die which started to close the neck-sizing collet, but then I withdrew it when my wife came in. When I tried to insert the case again, it came up against the closed (locked) collet and my continued effort caused the fatal destruction of my press. Then it told me that they had replaced EVERYTHING on my press that was broken as well as replaced the turret and the collet in the die so that it would work perfectly and charged me NOT ONE RED CENT!!! NONE of that damage was their fault, but because I had been straight up honest from the word go, they felt it was only fair of them to keep me as a customer. It is often repeated that the gauge of a man's intelligence is how much he thinks like you applies here. While this man and I reload for different reasons, we both enjoy quality equipment that didn't require me to go with out food for a month to get started. Thanks for these videos.
My videos remain current as long as they are posted. This is not a time stamped blog thread. You are welcome to comment on any video, and your comments will be as relevant as the day I launched the video. To that end, I desire to answer and instruct as I can. Thank you.
@@GunBlue490 you do a great job. Keep doing it. You remind me of a gentleman who chose to mentor me when I was a young man in my early twenties. He was in his 60's and actually knew (and regularly corresponded with) Dick Lee, Bruce Hodgdon, Elmer Keith, and many more. We were members of the same local gun club and in my hubris, I considered myself a "wildcatter". I thought I had "wildcatted" a round because I had a 762X39mm case, replaced the bullet with a 180gn RN bullet and using a 7gn load of Unique, made that subsonic. I was bragging about my wildcatting skills one evening and got laughed at pretty good. Cliff took me under his wing and taught me from memory more than I thought even existed in this world of handloading. He also nicknamed me "Rookie Wildcat" which I wore in that club for the next 20 years until I left that area. Thank you for putting out such real, sensible, hands-on information. I enjoy your process, and while you and I are now closer in age than Cliff and I were, I still hear that massive knowledge and experience behind your instruction.
So a couple days ago I commented on one of these reloading vids about my purchasing a Lee powder measure and how it looked like the silliest thing compared to my old RCBS powder measure that had rusted up a bit due to disuse. I didn't care to revitalize the old measure. Well the new Lee powder measure turns out to be remarkably accurate. However quite fiddly as to setting the volume of powder. I still have not mastered that aspect of it and just set the amount by weighing a few dumps til I got it exact. And EXACT it was.
Thank You for the education. I purchased a set of Lee Precision pistol dies and basically had no idea how they worked. I have a much better understanding now. the only small difference I noticed is that the Lee crimping die for the 40 caliber is a simple neck sizing press without the inner collet.
Absolutely loving this series Sir! Thank you for sharing your knowledge about handloading. My dad just gave me all of his old reloading gear and I'm excited to start my reloading hobby. He has old pistol cases and bullets from the 90's. Are those safe to reuse considering their age? Thanks again.
This is truly a wonderful and informative series, thank you! One question: If I've heard this correctly, when reusing the same brass multiple times, it seems to make better sense to use the neck-sizing die rather than the full-length die. If that's the case, then why not always use the neck-sizing die to be safe? Sorry if that's a dumb question; I could have missed something completely. Cheers!
It's not a dumb question, and it deserves an answer! Besides being generally more accurate, neck sizing does indeed preserve brass far longer, because the main body of the case does not repeatedly go through work hardening imposed by the firing/stretching, and resizing/compressing cycle. As with most good things, the advantage comes with limitations. There are three: 1. Because the brass becomes a mirror fit in the rifle in which it was fired, it will rarely chamber in another rifle, so neck sizing produces strictly custom ammo for one rifle. 2. Neck sized ammo is a tight fit, so it requires an action with sufficient camming leverage to close. It's entirely unsuited for anything except bolt actions and certain single shot rifles. 3. The tight fit greatly increases chambering effort and can require forceful and sometimes difficult closure, and the slightest bit of dirt, dent, or lint can forbid chambering. That makes it very unsuited for a valuable game hunt. So, while I will neck size loads for target shooting or varmint hunting with my bolt action rifles, I never use anything except brand new, or once fired, fully resized brass for my game hunts. As a note, necks do endure the work hardening cycle, and will require periodic annealing, to ensure tight bullet grasp, and to prevent splitting.
The Lee resizing dies are the best I've used and for the best price. The design of the decapping pin has saved it from breaking several times when I've pulled down on berdan brass.
I've had the opposite experience. It may be my inexperience, but my full length sizer, decapper pin broke on some particularly stubborn 223. Now I have a broke ass pin 🤫
What should I do if the neck is a little too wide and the bullet falls into the cartridge can I resize the neck and with what tool? I have the lee dies?
Could you clarify something? I am a bit confused by what you were saying with regards to a taper crimping die vs a collet / factory crimp die. If the bullet has a cannelure do I use taper crimp or factory? If the bullet does NOT have a cannelure, which die?
Dale Medin Sorry, but I just found your question. Lee Factory Crimp dies work with or without a cannelure. Crimping rifle cases is only necessary for rough handling, as with magazine fed high capacity autos, or guns with very high recoil forces, and is entirely unnecessary with most rifles. Crimping rifle cases that don't require it does work harden the brass and can lead to somewhat premature case neck splitting, unless the brass is annealed. Even with 200 grain bullets in my 300 Winchester Magnum, bullets remain secure affter repeated battering in the magazine. With an AR or Mini using a high cap magazine, I doubt 55 grain bullets would move, but I apply a very light crimp into the cannelure, emphasis on very. Lee Factory Crimp dies will create a perfect crimp into non cannelured bullets, too. Lee FC dies for handguns use a full length crimp that resizes the case all the way to the base with a carbide resizing ring. Auto pistol cases that headspace at the mouth, ie 45, 9mm, 40 S&W, are never roll crimped. Rimmed cases, ie 38 Spl., 357 Mag, 44 Spl, 44 Mag, require varying degrees of roll crimp, depending on recoil levels. Never crimp more than necessary. A 38 Spl with lightweight bullets or light target loads require none, while heavier bullets and powder charges do. A 44 or 357 Magnum always requires a very tight roll crimp to prevent bullet movement, and some of the slow burning powders such as H110 and Winchester 296 need heavy bullet retention to burn correctly, or to even ignite. Lee has extremely good directions packed with their FC die.
On the Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die, do you recommend any lubrication or sanding to smooth the tapered collet surface? I saw someone else make that recommendation but I would really be grateful to know your opinion.
Of a number of such dies that I've owned, I have had only one that jammed on rare occasion. I did polish the tapered cone of the collet, and applied some plain mineral oil to the surface, which eliminated the problem. I don't find it to be a problem that should be expected, based on my overall experience, which is very favorable.
Having got back into hand loading after a three year's sabbatical and now having only one rifle per caliber, I had decided to eschew full resizing and embrace neck sizing. A prominent professional competition rifle shooter on you tube ( yeah yeah I know ) has made the statement that "nobody does that anymore" and it's a bad idea. Thoughts?
Why work the brass more than necessary, I only neck size ,there was a saying in my Regiment ( The Royal Green Jackets) " Do what is necessary, and nothing that is not " . Not always true but in this case I believe it is .
I'm at a point when I'm ready for hand loading. I'm loading for marksmanship, not hunting. Is there a real difference in dies labeled "Competition" or "Match" grade versus regular dies other than price? BTW, I'm really enjoying your videos.
Well, I'm hoping you still read comments on your older videos. I'm new to reloading and seeking clarification. When using the Collet Neck Sizing Die and brass that has already been fired with the intended rifle, do you need to trim the case to length?
This is not a dated public blog, because I'm not generating a thread to be responded to. I produce information, and it never gets old. Every day, I answer questions on any videos that I ever produced. In answer to your question, the die is used no differently than any other. Cases must be trimmed when they reach or exceed the published maximum length, which prevents bullet siezure. Trim length should be set .010" less than the maximum, though no harm is done if accidentally trimmed somewhat less. The collet die must be set as directed. I have had one die out of many where the inside collet was rough on the tapered exterior, and occasionally jammed, collapsing cases. If you have that issue, contact Lee for advice or replacement.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you good sir, as always, you do an amazing job explaining things. I would like advise in one other area; After watching your videos on the .257 Roberts (and reading up on the cartridge), I am considering purchasing one (a new Kimber Classic Select Grade). This being a new rifle, I would shoot factory ammunition for the few trips to the range just for warranty purposes. Since this factory ammo will be +P (and I know very little about +P cartridges), I'm wondering if there are any peculiarities when it comes to reloading these cases vs standard loads? I'm assuming that the +P brass will have a thicker case wall than standard but don't know that for a fact. Do you have any experience when it comes to reloading these +P stamped cases and if not, is that something you would recommend trying or should I try to find standard .257 Roberts brass?
Gunblue490 Does the reseating die with the o ring you are demonstrating come standard with a set or is it bought separately? please bear with me. I am new to all of this.. thank you.
tjmooremusic The Lee dies that I demonstrated come as shown. That single feature is absolutely far ahead of antiquated set screws that become loose, or jam, and are always difficult to adjust. With the O ring, one simply adjusts the die as required, then the lock ring is secured finger tight. Use of a wrench is entirel optional, and entirely unnecessary. Removal of the die without altering the lock ring position is simplicity itself, because the O ring is also firm againt the threads. One loosens the lock ring, and the die will turn with it.
Again, thank you very much! I'm looking forward to getting started. I will be reloading 38 special , 357 magnum. I have a mini 14 ranch so will eventually start on 233. Oh and as my Ruger blackhawk has a cylinder for 9mm I will be reloading them as well. That ought to keep this old guy happily busy. First I have to recover from a recent back surgery.
To fix a slipping set screw on the threads of a die, take out the set screw and then insert a small lead shot into the hole. Reinstall the set screw. The lead will form to the threads and will grip the die better. I have also snipped the lead tip off a bullet in place of the shot pellet in a pinch.
I broke the decapping pin on the 300 BLK converting brass. It ALWAYS got stuck on the draw stroke, it let me get a few thousandths and then BOOM the rim pops. USUALLY I know when I'm FUBAR and I'll try and tap gently for 20min and itl unseat. But I believe I have an error of setting my die too far 'down' I bought a universal decapper to just leave that "error" up to God. (We know it's me but don't tell anyone) And I have an RCBS because the local shop had a good deal on '06 full length set $25 for a good used die set. Versus $90 at sportsman's. If I have the opportunity, I will order a Lee set for my needs. Their customer service is BEYOND amazing. (They helped me with missing parts from a ram prime) And I'm surprised the Lee loader I'm using doesn't bite me for putting that '06 RCBS in it. Very good manners as well, Lee.
I have a question about the Lee Bullet Seating die. I find that my bullet fitting does not fit very well over the bullets that I use - it pushes against the tip of the bullet rather than to grab against the ogive. Can I drill and grind the inside of my bullet fitting so that it fits my bullet better?
There are numerous bullet tapers, and no one seating die stem can possibly accommodate every style. Certain shapes such as V-Max can be too sharp to fit. You can try drilling the recess, but use actreme care to be centered, and remove only the minimum of metal. Lee will also make you a seating punch fitted to your bullet, which is a better alternative.
Thank you for your reply. I understand that there are many types of bullet shapes so I decided to give it a go with my drill press and fine sandpaper (1500 grit) to get a smooth face inside the stem. I found the stem very easy to work with because it’s soft aluminum. The bullet seems to fit better in the cup now but I’ll have to test if repeatability improves with my bullet comparator, and maybe also check bullet concentricity. If it doesn’t work out, I can always send off to Lee for a custom stem per your good suggestion. Have a good one!
FYI.. The bullet in question is a .308-caliber Hornady 165-grain Interlock SP soft point flat base. I have bullet length uniformity issues because the soft lead point of this bullet tends to vary a lot - so I need the stem to grab the ogive rather than to push against the point.
I ran into a problem with neck sizing for my 308win where cartridges became hard to chamber after a few firings. Do you recommend bump sizing (using Redding Comp Shell Holders or similar) or do you recommend I just full size every few firings? I currently use all the Lee dies for everything, and I also have a Redding Body Die.
Neck sizing and firm bolt closure are companions, which is why it's more accurate. As cases are fired repeatedly, the brass hardens, which increases resistance, and is a signal to anneal. See my annealing video. A standard sizing die will set back the shoulder to any degree you wish, by simply adjusting it minimally. No special brand does it better than another. A die is only a specified chamber created by a reamer of SAAMI dimension which every manufacturers uses. The procedure, after annealing, is to size a case incrementally with a full length die until it chambers with acceptable resistance, without being overly loose.
I am also well aware that you advised against military brass in one of your other videos, and I do understand the challenges with it. I might not have ever tried it except for fact that a friend gave me a bunch to try, and that I found a pretty tight group with them using a very moderate load of Varget powder in my 308win Browning ab3 bolt gun. I’m trying to improve my consistency now to hunt wild boar. Thank you for helping a new shooter.
Watch carefully as some not all Lee reloading equipment is junk, and some is real good and I use a lot of Hornady dies and Redding body dies, they are all made here in the USA as most of them are,good luck.
"Competition shooters" is a broad category, describing nothing. It certainly does not include competition benchrest shooters who have been neck sizing for 80 years. I've explained that neck sizing is for benchrest (competition shooters) and varmint rifles desiring the utmost accuracy. I explained that it requires strong bolt effort. I explained that it's not for those needing the assurance of rapid follow up shots. I think that covers it.
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This dude has the BEST home loading tutorials. Hands down.
he is the only one whom im listening to .. gem of knowledge and experience
Well this certainly explained to me how rifle dies are designed to work if used correctly. My reloading press is a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP. All of my dies for 9mm and .45 ACP are Hornady with the addition of a Lee Factory Crimp die for each. Thankfully I ran across a video last year that explained why it is better to use a Lee factory crimp die and not the Hornady crimp which is incorporated into the bullet seating die. After watching this video, when I get ready to expand my reloading capabilities to include 30-06 and Rem .223 I will defiantly be going with Lee dies which work great on the Hornady Lock-n-Load press with the bushing system that it has. Yet again, I have more valuable Knowledge that you have provided me. Thank you sir!! I think that I should insist to my 25 year old son to watch all of your hand loading videos as a prerequisite before I show and teach him what I know as he learns the process of reloading. Thanks again!!
Great points- just got a Hornady L&L AP so I'll listen.
What did the video explain about the Hornady and Lee dies?
I agree about Lee dies. When I started loading, I bought all brands, and although I don't buy many these days, Lee is the first maker that I shop. Initially, I thought they must be cheap in quality, because the price was so reasonable compared with other manufacturers. When I used them, I realized how great they were. I love being able to charge the case during the expanding operation on straight wall cases. Great video. Thanks as always.
Proverbs 27:17
Iron sharpeneth iron;
So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend.
Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof:
So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured.
Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Wow! I'm just getting into reloading. I was like most other people... I just assumed that Lee dies were inferior, because of the price. They're actually innovative, in several aspects. I'll be looking to buy some Lee dies, for ease of extracting a stuck case, and for the genius engineering of them. Plus, I'll save quite a few bucks. This video was VERY helpful.
I bought my first set of lee dies a few years back for 38/357 they are very nice. Wish I had known they were the quality they were years ago.
This is an excellent video and explains the various Lee dies very well .
Thank you .
I know this is years late, but ... I've been reloading for 40 years and I've used Lee Products for about 40 of those years (I started with a .303Br Lee Loader I bought at a flea market), even though I've been laughed at for 40 years. But here is a company customer story.
About 10 years ago, I had an issue with my neck-sizer die. I was using it for .303Br cases on a turret press (NOT the Classic Cast press). I had already loaded a dozen cases and was working on another, when my wife came downstairs to see me. I stopped what I was doing and when she left, I began again. I could not get the case into the die, no matter how hard I pushed. And, believe me, I pushed. Suddenly, the press made a loud pop and the turret jumped about 6 inches in the air. The turret was bent and my press was broken. I called Lee Precision and was honest with them. This was a second-hand press I had had for 10 years. It came to me with one of the cams already cracked, but it never caused a problem. What had I done? I emailed pictures as well.
The person I spoke with told me to pack it all up and send it to them and if it was determined to be faulty, they would fix it.
Packed up the press, the turret with the dies still in it, and the case I was trying to size (it was crushed), sent it from Alberta, Canada to Wisconsin. Three weeks later, I got it back with a letter explaining what had happened. I had started the case up into the die which started to close the neck-sizing collet, but then I withdrew it when my wife came in. When I tried to insert the case again, it came up against the closed (locked) collet and my continued effort caused the fatal destruction of my press.
Then it told me that they had replaced EVERYTHING on my press that was broken as well as replaced the turret and the collet in the die so that it would work perfectly and charged me NOT ONE RED CENT!!! NONE of that damage was their fault, but because I had been straight up honest from the word go, they felt it was only fair of them to keep me as a customer.
It is often repeated that the gauge of a man's intelligence is how much he thinks like you applies here.
While this man and I reload for different reasons, we both enjoy quality equipment that didn't require me to go with out food for a month to get started.
Thanks for these videos.
My videos remain current as long as they are posted. This is not a time stamped blog thread. You are welcome to comment on any video, and your comments will be as relevant as the day I launched the video. To that end, I desire to answer and instruct as I can. Thank you.
@@GunBlue490 you do a great job. Keep doing it. You remind me of a gentleman who chose to mentor me when I was a young man in my early twenties. He was in his 60's and actually knew (and regularly corresponded with) Dick Lee, Bruce Hodgdon, Elmer Keith, and many more. We were members of the same local gun club and in my hubris, I considered myself a "wildcatter". I thought I had "wildcatted" a round because I had a 762X39mm case, replaced the bullet with a 180gn RN bullet and using a 7gn load of Unique, made that subsonic.
I was bragging about my wildcatting skills one evening and got laughed at pretty good. Cliff took me under his wing and taught me from memory more than I thought even existed in this world of handloading. He also nicknamed me "Rookie Wildcat" which I wore in that club for the next 20 years until I left that area.
Thank you for putting out such real, sensible, hands-on information. I enjoy your process, and while you and I are now closer in age than Cliff and I were, I still hear that massive knowledge and experience behind your instruction.
So a couple days ago I commented on one of these reloading vids about my purchasing a Lee powder measure and how it looked like the silliest thing compared to my old RCBS powder measure that had rusted up a bit due to disuse. I didn't care to revitalize the old measure. Well the new Lee powder measure turns out to be remarkably accurate. However quite fiddly as to setting the volume of powder. I still have not mastered that aspect of it and just set the amount by weighing a few dumps til I got it exact. And EXACT it was.
wow!!! AMAZING Thank You. I learned something I did not understand today. Will be watching all your excellent videos.
Thank You for the education. I purchased a set of Lee Precision pistol dies and basically had no idea how they worked. I have a much better understanding now. the only small difference I noticed is that the Lee crimping die for the 40 caliber is a simple neck sizing press without the inner collet.
Captain so appreciate your wealth of information . Amazed with your analogies and explanations.
priceless knowledge for new 63 yr old reloader
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Absolutely loving this series Sir! Thank you for sharing your knowledge about handloading. My dad just gave me all of his old reloading gear and I'm excited to start my reloading hobby.
He has old pistol cases and bullets from the 90's. Are those safe to reuse considering their age? Thanks again.
Brass cases do not go bad normally. Bullets the same. As long as they are stored inside and not where high h,umidity can make them corrode. Stay safe.
This is truly a wonderful and informative series, thank you! One question: If I've heard this correctly, when reusing the same brass multiple times, it seems to make better sense to use the neck-sizing die rather than the full-length die. If that's the case, then why not always use the neck-sizing die to be safe? Sorry if that's a dumb question; I could have missed something completely. Cheers!
It's not a dumb question, and it deserves an answer! Besides being generally more accurate, neck sizing does indeed preserve brass far longer, because the main body of the case does not repeatedly go through work hardening imposed by the firing/stretching, and resizing/compressing cycle. As with most good things, the advantage comes with limitations. There are three:
1. Because the brass becomes a mirror fit in the rifle in which it was fired, it will rarely chamber in another rifle, so neck sizing produces strictly custom ammo for one rifle.
2. Neck sized ammo is a tight fit, so it requires an action with sufficient camming leverage to close. It's entirely unsuited for anything except bolt actions and certain single shot rifles.
3. The tight fit greatly increases chambering effort and can require forceful and sometimes difficult closure, and the slightest bit of dirt, dent, or lint can forbid chambering. That makes it very unsuited for a valuable game hunt.
So, while I will neck size loads for target shooting or varmint hunting with my bolt action rifles, I never use anything except brand new, or once fired, fully resized brass for my game hunts.
As a note, necks do endure the work hardening cycle, and will require periodic annealing, to ensure tight bullet grasp, and to prevent splitting.
@@GunBlue490 Ah, that makes complete sense, now I get it. Thanks so much for your detailed reply. Love all your videos!
The Lee resizing dies are the best I've used and for the best price. The design of the decapping pin has saved it from breaking several times when I've pulled down on berdan brass.
I've had the opposite experience.
It may be my inexperience, but my full length sizer, decapper pin broke on some particularly stubborn 223.
Now I have a broke ass pin 🤫
Very interested in your opinion re undersized vs standard dies. Don't quite understand why a Udie would be needed. Thanks.
What should I do if the neck is a little too wide and the bullet falls into the cartridge can I resize the neck and with what tool? I have the lee dies?
Could you clarify something?
I am a bit confused by what you were saying with regards to a taper crimping die vs a collet / factory crimp die.
If the bullet has a cannelure do I use taper crimp or factory?
If the bullet does NOT have a cannelure, which die?
Dale Medin
Sorry, but I just found your question. Lee Factory Crimp dies work with or without a cannelure. Crimping rifle cases is only necessary for rough handling, as with magazine fed high capacity autos, or guns with very high recoil forces, and is entirely unnecessary with most rifles. Crimping rifle cases that don't require it does work harden the brass and can lead to somewhat premature case neck splitting, unless the brass is annealed. Even with 200 grain bullets in my 300 Winchester Magnum, bullets remain secure affter repeated battering in the magazine. With an AR or Mini using a high cap magazine, I doubt 55 grain bullets would move, but I apply a very light crimp into the cannelure, emphasis on very. Lee Factory Crimp dies will create a perfect crimp into non cannelured bullets, too. Lee FC dies for handguns use a full length crimp that resizes the case all the way to the base with a carbide resizing ring. Auto pistol cases that headspace at the mouth, ie 45, 9mm, 40 S&W, are never roll crimped. Rimmed cases, ie 38 Spl., 357 Mag, 44 Spl, 44 Mag, require varying degrees of roll crimp, depending on recoil levels. Never crimp more than necessary. A 38 Spl with lightweight bullets or light target loads require none, while heavier bullets and powder charges do. A 44 or 357 Magnum always requires a very tight roll crimp to prevent bullet movement, and some of the slow burning powders such as H110 and Winchester 296 need heavy bullet retention to burn correctly, or to even ignite. Lee has extremely good directions packed with their FC die.
On the Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die, do you recommend any lubrication or sanding to smooth the tapered collet surface? I saw someone else make that recommendation but I would really be grateful to know your opinion.
Of a number of such dies that I've owned, I have had only one that jammed on rare occasion. I did polish the tapered cone of the collet, and applied some plain mineral oil to the surface, which eliminated the problem. I don't find it to be a problem that should be expected, based on my overall experience, which is very favorable.
Having got back into hand loading after a three year's sabbatical and now having only one rifle per caliber, I had decided to eschew full resizing and embrace neck sizing. A prominent professional competition rifle shooter on you tube ( yeah yeah I know ) has made the statement that "nobody does that anymore" and it's a bad idea. Thoughts?
Why work the brass more than necessary, I only neck size ,there was a saying in my Regiment ( The Royal Green Jackets) " Do what is necessary, and nothing that is not " . Not always true but in this case I believe it is .
Awesome learning experience.....thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I'm at a point when I'm ready for hand loading. I'm loading for marksmanship, not hunting. Is there a real difference in dies labeled "Competition" or "Match" grade versus regular dies other than price?
BTW, I'm really enjoying your videos.
Well, I'm hoping you still read comments on your older videos. I'm new to reloading and seeking clarification. When using the Collet Neck Sizing Die and brass that has already been fired with the intended rifle, do you need to trim the case to length?
This is not a dated public blog, because I'm not generating a thread to be responded to. I produce information, and it never gets old. Every day, I answer questions on any videos that I ever produced. In answer to your question, the die is used no differently than any other. Cases must be trimmed when they reach or exceed the published maximum length, which prevents bullet siezure. Trim length should be set .010" less than the maximum, though no harm is done if accidentally trimmed somewhat less. The collet die must be set as directed. I have had one die out of many where the inside collet was rough on the tapered exterior, and occasionally jammed, collapsing cases. If you have that issue, contact Lee for advice or replacement.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you good sir, as always, you do an amazing job explaining things. I would like advise in one other area;
After watching your videos on the .257 Roberts (and reading up on the cartridge), I am considering purchasing one (a new Kimber Classic Select Grade). This being a new rifle, I would shoot factory ammunition for the few trips to the range just for warranty purposes. Since this factory ammo will be +P (and I know very little about +P cartridges), I'm wondering if there are any peculiarities when it comes to reloading these cases vs standard loads? I'm assuming that the +P brass will have a thicker case wall than standard but don't know that for a fact. Do you have any experience when it comes to reloading these +P stamped cases and if not, is that something you would recommend trying or should I try to find standard .257 Roberts brass?
You better start moving these videos to bitchute before RUclips deletes this wonderful info
Gunblue490
Does the reseating die with the o ring you are demonstrating come standard with a set or is it bought separately?
please bear with me. I am new to all of this..
thank you.
tjmooremusic
The Lee dies that I demonstrated come as shown. That single feature is absolutely far ahead of antiquated set screws that become loose, or jam, and are always difficult to adjust. With the O ring, one simply adjusts the die as required, then the lock ring is secured finger tight. Use of a wrench is entirel optional, and entirely unnecessary. Removal of the die without altering the lock ring position is simplicity itself, because the O ring is also firm againt the threads. One loosens the lock ring, and the die will turn with it.
Again, thank you very much!
I'm looking forward to getting started.
I will be reloading 38 special , 357 magnum. I have a mini 14 ranch so will eventually start on 233.
Oh and as my Ruger blackhawk has a cylinder for 9mm I will be reloading them as well.
That ought to keep this old guy happily busy. First I have to recover from a recent back surgery.
Master teacher
Lee's carbide dies, for pistol, do not need lube. Correct? I'm starting to buy LEE dies. You are their best salesman!!!!!
correct...
@@dougb3157 Thank you!
To fix a slipping set screw on the threads of a die, take out the set screw and then insert a small lead shot into the hole. Reinstall the set screw. The lead will form to the threads and will grip the die better. I have also snipped the lead tip off a bullet in place of the shot pellet in a pinch.
It's a bad system. Even RCBS no longer uses it and went to a split ring lock screw with an Allen screw.
@@nohandle257 The hell they did! Just ordered a set from Hornady for my RCBS dies.
I broke the decapping pin on the 300 BLK converting brass.
It ALWAYS got stuck on the draw stroke, it let me get a few thousandths and then BOOM the rim pops.
USUALLY I know when I'm FUBAR and I'll try and tap gently for 20min and itl unseat.
But I believe I have an error of setting my die too far 'down'
I bought a universal decapper to just leave that "error" up to God.
(We know it's me but don't tell anyone)
And I have an RCBS because the local shop had a good deal on '06 full length set $25 for a good used die set. Versus $90 at sportsman's.
If I have the opportunity, I will order a Lee set for my needs. Their customer service is BEYOND amazing. (They helped me with missing parts from a ram prime)
And I'm surprised the Lee loader I'm using doesn't bite me for putting that '06 RCBS in it. Very good manners as well, Lee.
I have a question about the Lee Bullet Seating die. I find that my bullet fitting does not fit very well over the bullets that I use - it pushes against the tip of the bullet rather than to grab against the ogive. Can I drill and grind the inside of my bullet fitting so that it fits my bullet better?
There are numerous bullet tapers, and no one seating die stem can possibly accommodate every style. Certain shapes such as V-Max can be too sharp to fit. You can try drilling the recess, but use actreme care to be centered, and remove only the minimum of metal. Lee will also make you a seating punch fitted to your bullet, which is a better alternative.
Thank you for your reply. I understand that there are many types of bullet shapes so I decided to give it a go with my drill press and fine sandpaper (1500 grit) to get a smooth face inside the stem. I found the stem very easy to work with because it’s soft aluminum. The bullet seems to fit better in the cup now but I’ll have to test if repeatability improves with my bullet comparator, and maybe also check bullet concentricity. If it doesn’t work out, I can always send off to Lee for a custom stem per your good suggestion. Have a good one!
FYI.. The bullet in question is a .308-caliber Hornady 165-grain Interlock SP soft point flat base. I have bullet length uniformity issues because the soft lead point of this bullet tends to vary a lot - so I need the stem to grab the ogive rather than to push against the point.
will the lee dies work on a RCBS press
I ran into a problem with neck sizing for my 308win where cartridges became hard to chamber after a few firings. Do you recommend bump sizing (using Redding Comp Shell Holders or similar) or do you recommend I just full size every few firings? I currently use all the Lee dies for everything, and I also have a Redding Body Die.
Neck sizing and firm bolt closure are companions, which is why it's more accurate. As cases are fired repeatedly, the brass hardens, which increases resistance, and is a signal to anneal. See my annealing video. A standard sizing die will set back the shoulder to any degree you wish, by simply adjusting it minimally. No special brand does it better than another. A die is only a specified chamber created by a reamer of SAAMI dimension which every manufacturers uses. The procedure, after annealing, is to size a case incrementally with a full length die until it chambers with acceptable resistance, without being overly loose.
I am also well aware that you advised against military brass in one of your other videos, and I do understand the challenges with it. I might not have ever tried it except for fact that a friend gave me a bunch to try, and that I found a pretty tight group with them using a very moderate load of Varget powder in my 308win Browning ab3 bolt gun. I’m trying to improve my consistency now to hunt wild boar. Thank you for helping a new shooter.
Can I crimp using a hornady full sizing die .
Watch carefully as some not all Lee reloading equipment is junk, and some is real good and I use a lot of Hornady dies and Redding body dies, they are all made here in the USA as most of them are,good luck.
Necksizing is not recommended, when the cases are shot in hot chambers. That's why competition shooter full resize.
"Competition shooters" is a broad category, describing nothing. It certainly does not include competition benchrest shooters who have been neck sizing for 80 years. I've explained that neck sizing is for benchrest (competition shooters) and varmint rifles desiring the utmost accuracy. I explained that it requires strong bolt effort. I explained that it's not for those needing the assurance of rapid follow up shots. I think that covers it.
I do not know of any brand of die sets not made in the US, and I know of none made in chi-na I don't know where that comes from.
I really need to know how a man who works with his hands as much as you do keeps his fingernails so nicely manicured? 🙃