Case resizing lubes~How to select, properly use them, and hassles to avoid
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- Опубликовано: 27 апр 2017
- Learn how to correctly lube your cases, whether one at a time or 1,000, easily, inexpensively, in a matter of seconds, and just as swiftly clean and remove the lube, without any mess or hassle. Learn how to avoid common problems with case lubrication that cause case dents, stuck cases, contaminated primers, and many other nuisances that create both bad looking and poor functioning ammo that are signs of the amateur. Discover how to choose one lubricant with all the countless products, hype, and the often exaggerated claims. It's a lot simpler than you might be led to believe!
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you are a wonderful teacher. you put a large amount of information into a condensed amount of time without anything useless.
You are quickly becoming my go to advisor and I am in my 73rd year. Thank you so much. Dr. K
Lots of learning going on here on this channel. Instead of some egomaniac throwing words like "tactical" around. And a true patriot at that.
I’ve been reloading for almost 10 years. And I learned SO much from this video! I wish he was my grandfather!
Years pass and all your videos are still helping countless people. I look at the stats as I type this, and I see you have something upwards of 51,000 subscribers, this video has been viewed by 24,587 times, and yet only 617 people clicked thumbs up / like. I have to assume that is just because folks have come to simply _expect_ interesting, informative, and well narrated videos from you, and so they just take them for granted. Expecting good as only normal is a compliment in itself.
As far as the 15 thumbs down / dislikes - those clearly must be from owners and employees of various overpriced case lube companies. You are costing them money. :-)
Thank you sir. Great vid and I feel like I'm 12 back at my grandpas work bench watching him explain reloading 30 06. I thank you for that. God bless and great knowledge
I'm always learning new tidbits and tricks, and love learning about how you're saving money with Lee Products by watching your channel.
I am amazed at the amount of information I just absorbed in just 38 minutes. Thank you, sir!
Still relevant! I just started delving into .223 with my LM. Faced with the, apparently common, issue of stuck cases, I got to the point where I was spraying enuff lanolin mix on them to oil up a good sized sumo, and spraying on a coat of one-shot too! Still had stuck cases. A tube of Lee lube, a tub, and a little experimentation to make sure I am using enough and problem solved. Thanks
Good on you Gun Blue.Ive been shooting all my life since i was 3 years old and reloading for the past 45 years and your video has shown me that Ive been wasting a lot of time lubing cases individually and cleaning them individually.Thanking you for another great video and God Bless you and your family.
I try to watch at least 1 video of yours a week, they're long but very detailed and informative. I'm glad I watched this, I just started getting into reloading and this is probably going to save me money, and be less wasteful
Started reloading in the late 1970s. Went with the standard RCBS stuff to put on their pad and was very dissatisfied with it, gummy junk. Perhaps I used too much but eventually it built up in my die and I was experiencing dents when reloading for .25-20WIN. Cleaned my die(s) with brake cleaner spray and blown out with compressed air. Repeated with rubbing alcohol and air to make sure all was clean and dry. Then I went with the thinner Dillon pump spray and have had zero problems since. You are slowly changing me and now I will try this Lee resizing goop. THANK YOU. Old dogs can learn new tricks. Luckily I have never experienced a stuck case(except in a .223/5.56 chamber). I sure never want that headache!
All my pistol dies and some of my rifle dies are carbide. For those rifle calibers that have carbide dies I still lube about 20% of my cases in fear of a stuck case. Maybe I don't need it but I find it makes all the resizing smooth as butter. Butter! Now that's an idea, "organic" and I can lick the cases clean! Vegans can use coconut butter.
As a new handloader, I appreciate the knowledge shared on this video.
Wow. Your videos are so informative. Thank you for taking the time to do this. It really helps a relatively new reloader like myself.
You sir are a good Elmer! Much appreciate you passing on your knowledge to us wipper snappers, and making the follow generation better for it.
This is becoming one of my favorites. You actually LEARN something. Am thinking about a "one load for everything" concept. Become "field familiar" with this load, be ready the day I can afford to hunt dangerous game in Alaska.
Thank you sir! I sat down at my computer looking for a more efficient way to lube my brass with the Lee lube and you provided the answer...godspeed.
You're my boy, Blue! You're my boy.
Thank you so much. I've been asking myself the same questions the past month processing brass.
Thank you for patient way of presenting different products. My first time watching you and I am informed. Thanks again.
Brilliant video was having problems with stuck cases in 223 and 243 useing spray lube had some lee lubricant but was using it all wrong just putting around the neck applied it to the case as you did and I have not had a problem.
Thank you Steve Shipley UK.
Great Apron!!!I live down by New Orleans and Love Muffulettas from Central Grocery when I go down to the French Quarter.. I am enjoying your Re-loading videos and getting a lot of info!!! Thanks!!
Lee, says to thin this lube with water or alcohol. Alcohol is better it evaporates quicker. Can also use it wet. Best on the market.
great info site. been reloading over 40 years but still learn more here. subscribed
As an Engineer I appreciate your common sense! Redding sells a dry graphite neck lube. It works well for me.
Your videos are excellent! I've learned so much from you and I'm not expecting my press and reloading supplies to be delivered until Saturday , LOL
Thank you for taking the time and the detail. I alway learn something new whenI watch your videos and I like your no nonsense style. 😎👍
Thank you so much for your videos! I got a little over ambitious with the amount of lee lube today. With the size of a almond of lee lube tried to resize 150 223 cases and had my first stuck case lol got it take care of and realized It was my fault lol keep up the great videos!
I'm always amazed by your knowledge,patience, and attention to detail. How does it feel to be still that good, at your stage in life. Believe me, I didn't know the best way to word that compliment. Thanks for your willingness to share knowledge. It has helped, greatly.
Very helpful video. I especially like the tip for lubing then cleaning multiple cases. Thanks!
Awesome videos. So glad i found your channel.
I’ll keep watching
Very interesting video. Informative, straightforward, and pragmatic. Thanks for the tips on how to be time efficient without the use of aerosols.
Sir! You've enriched the experience of my introduction. To this rewarding pastime.
By removing the mysterious veneer.
Of the volumeous knowledge required.
To safely conduct our activities.
Kudos and bravo Zulu.
Thanks Chief. Fond regards sir.
Great video, you answered many questions. Crisco I didn't know about.
Good video. I'm a BIG fan of the Imperial Sizing Die wax, which I believe has a lanolin base. It's "perfect", just like all of the rest of them! :)
I came a little late to reloading but man I love your videos , your so informative, I'm learning and I really soak up you're videos. Please keep them up 🙏 thanks
Welcome to the channel, and thank you.
Always informative. Appreciate the videos
Many thanks! You helped me eliminate case dents!
Well sir, you've opened my eyes. The tube of Lee resizing lubricant that I ordered up to try arrived today. Much nicer to use than the Imperial that I normally use, and the option to use it either wet or dry is handy. I find it to wipe off just as easily with the microfiber rag I normally use. Sure glad I gave it a try.
Allan Bazinet
The microfiber is great for a few, but may I suggest the following. Loaded ammo is totally waterproof. Place the ammo in the same plastic container that is used to coat the brass for sizing. Put a squirt of Dawn dish detergent in and fill with hot, not scalding water, suds up and agitate for 30 seconds or so, just like doing silverware. Rinse thoroughly and dump onto a heavy towell, and dry. I've done as many as two hundred 223 rounds at a time that way, and it makes short work of an otherwise tedious job, and they sparkle!
Thank you sir, you have been a wealth of help. Cheers from Australia 👍
This is a MARVELOUS video - keeping it real and in perspective, almost always lacking in other videos. I do find it interesting with your "reveal" of the Castrol Iloform PS700 drawing paste - looking at the MSDS they write, "Not recommended for yellow metal." And still, hard to argue with the results, right ? There is the saying, "He who says it can't be done, should step aside for one who is doing it." Thank you ! For anyone so interested, they also say (as Lee now prints on their packaging) that this can be diluted with water (Lee says "four parts water"). The Castrol MSDS explicitly states that when diluting, (they call it "extending") water should be added slowly to the paste while mixing, and never add the paste to the water. This is curious for a chemist anyway, as we learn that just the opposite is generally true, with the nemonic "one can add a substance to the river - one cannot add the river to the substance".
Appreciate your video's. Very informative, and thank you!
A nice segue from your 270 super accurate ammo series! I use the Dillon lanolin mixture and spritz it on rifle cases. Now I have a use for that very old can of Crisco and maybe even some bacon grease!
great video, I use the Lee case lube myself, I last bought a tube in 2012 2k + 40 S&W, 1k 45 acp, 2k 45 colt, looks like I will have to get another tube this year. 2019
wonderfully simple. thank you
Great video! Learned a lot from it.
That’s a brilliant video. Very useful. You have earned yourself a subscriber 😁
I too really like the wipe-on lubricants as opposed to the sprays; I just lost too many cases to dents with sprays, though they are convenient. Imperial Wax for me; I like how it just wipes off with a microfiber rag, and as with the Lee, you just need a tiny, tiny amount.
I do also like the dry neck lube that you apply using a small tub of ceramic balls; very convenient method. If your necks are very clean, as happens with wet tumbling or ultrasonic cleaning, they can be a bit tight through the expander ball, even with a carbide expander -- the dry lube really helps with that situation.
+1 on RCBS Imperial Sizing Wax and the graphite in clay balls stuff for inside the neck. Graphite first or you’ll have a ball of goo quickly.
Good video and loved watching the Holly Cross on your bench.
I agree 100% with the Lee lube. Crisco? You can't even make decent pastry with that. Lard is king.
Thank you for all your advice
Your an excellent teacher!
Great video! Lots of great info!
Cough, Cough...retrieves jaw from lap....YOU SOLD YOUR 7-08? Where's my nitro? Someone call the nurse? I can't see the numbers on the phone to call for 911....on a side note- Indeed, Lee's Lube is the tried and true goto product. May God Bless You & Yours for many many to come-
Fantastic information thank you sir keep up the good work 👍
I am a neophyte to reloading which means I'm impressionable to the experienced folks to whom I have access. Thankfully the Lord has given me a measure of common sense and I consider myself using it well, when I gravitate toward these types of instructionals. I know the point you were conveying in this video, but I think I'll leave the gear oil in my gear box, leave the bearing grease on my spindles, the shortening in the kitchen, and the toxic substances in things that it is needed for. That leaves the water based waxy substance that will last me 5 years at the cost of $5.00. The substance that won't get sprayed all over my workspace or cause powder charges to lose uniformity. I just bought four tubes of Lee Resizing Lube. One less decision where I don't have to spend a lot for better performance. Thank you and may God bless!
Thank you for the heads up sir. 👍
I love your channel I used to reload constantly rifle and shotgun being born and raised in NV I had a lot of areas to shoot my dad's reloader had this sticky carp for a lube. I don't remember why I tried it but I took a plastic case that held electrical tape. I filled one have of the case with powdered graphite to my kneck depth for my 243 and dipped it in I never used anything else again my brass lasted forever and even full re s sizing took half the effort I'm going to get back into reloading now that I'm retired and I'm going to try hexagonal born the nickname for it is white graphite maybe I almost caused an atomic explosion but it worked great with no buildup and being graphite a wipe down before putting it in the box give it a try on a small batch and see what you think thanks for the great videos
Great video!!!! Thanks for the information!
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please
I spray my Tupperware container with Pam nonstick cooking spray put my brass inside put the lid on and shake it and never had a problem
Great post👍the best on line I've seen. Thank you sirus. 🇺🇸 2A 🇺🇸
Finally found someone who mentions that carbide tubes are only available in one diameter and therefore carbide dies are not available in the likes of a 223 neckdown. Thanks....
GunBlue- I highly recommend you to a serious look at Browning's ABolt III if you find yourself itching for a new rifle. I've found their design overwhelmingly intriguing and probably will set the standard for some years to come, and your mechanical knowledge on firearm assembly and employment would give viewers a standing room only audience.
I will have to take a look at one soon. No particular itches at this moment!
Regarding the Lee lube: I live in an arid climate, and it seams that allowing it to dry between one and three hours seems to be perfect. I'm using a Lee Hand Press, and the effort needed to pull the ram back down increases greatly if it dries more.
You have really proven a point. I will be spraying my lube pad with Amsoil firearm lube.
I liked the, I think it's made by Hornady...One Shot spray lube. You could lube lots of cases really fast. Recently I have been introduced to Imperial Sizing Wax and a neck lube called Redding Imperial Convenien........be Plus Application Media. I typed this exactly as it reads on the tube it comes in. These two lubes are great!! It takes just a hint to lube the case and I don't know how the necks get lubed but they do. Not as fast as One Shot but a lot less messy and easy to wipe clean with a cloth. Thanks for the video Cap.
I'm going to have to try this again. Years back, I tried running a 30-06 case through the 270 Win. dies to shrink it down. However, it was a bear to do. I got half way through the stroke on the press when it became stuck, and I do mean stuck. I had to literally put all my weight on the lever to complete the re-size. I was very fearful of breaking the press. The press didn't break, however, but I got a pretty significant dent in the mid section of the case. Worried about having pressure issues from the damaged case, I loaded it with a lite load and fire formed it.
Another great video
When resizing 200 pieces of mil-surp once fired 50 BMG brass that had been shot in a loose chamber machine gun, I got a good lesson in resizing lube. You do NOT want to get one of those stuck in a resizing die. I actually found that the best lube for volume applications was synthetic motor oil, because it was the easiest to apply by hand. Now, I use my rotary tumbler for most reloading chores and a lot of other shop purposes as well. It's great for lubing brass similar to the shaken tub method you showed in the video. I use two gallon wide mouth plastic jugs, and they're each dedicated to a certain task so I never need to clean them to use them for something else. I also tumble clean the brass to remove the case lube. I have jugs for cold bluing steel parts, powder coating cast bullets (a real time saver and great quality), etc.
The video didn't mention lubing the inside of the case neck, and that's not a problem when sizing 7mm down to 6mm, but in the normal resizing process the neck is undersized a bit and then expanded back out, and a tiny bit of lube for the case neck expander is a good thing. Lee recommends wiping a tiny bit across the neck after rolling the outside of the brass between your finger and thumb to lube the outside of the case using their case lube.
The point is to lubricate as necessary, and however necessary, but not because it's a religion. Lubrication issues are of two types: None and too much. I have never used a case lubricant that worked finer than the Lee lubricant, which is an industrial metal drawing product made by Castrol, just for metal drawing. You can put as much on as you like, and will not collapse shoulders when used dry, inside and out.
I too have had very good luck with Lee case lube. I particularly like that it's easy to remove with water. It's also great that it's so cheap. I've used Castrol synthetic oil because it was easier to apply by hand, but I'll tumble lube rifle cases in a manner that is the automated version pf your tumble lube method, even though I was surprised at how quickly you were able to tumble them by hand. I may just keep a gallon jug next to the reloading bench rather than mess with the tumbler. I also love how the Lee lubed brass quickly dries and isn't wet and sticky to handle. Thanks again for the great video.
Have used Lee lubricant thinned with alcohol in a small spray bottle to spritz cases 2 or 3 squirts. You can put cases in a bowl and shake them or lay them on a shop towel or lube pad to spread the lube. Twenty five percent lube to seventy five percent alcohol works well and the alcohol evaporates quickly. A tube of Lee lube lasts me about 10 years.
Excellent.... this. Explains. Many. Things..8. And. That. Mostly .. You. Don.t. need. To. Fear. These. Things. Just. Pay. Attention.. to. Instructions ... and. The. Finest. Of. Details... look. For.... And. Notice. Differences.... then. Use. These. Things...To. their. Maximum.. potential... as. Often. As. Physically. Possible. Good. Craftsmanship....takes. care... and. Experience... that. Will. Produce. The. Quality. Needed..... thankyou. Very. Much... and. Have. A. Nice. Day....
Very instructive. I am about to begin reloading 223 which will be my first rifle rounds to prep and reload. I am reloading for accuracy in a bolt action that I want to use in 3 gun matches. I have a progressive Dillon 550 press and am trying to come up with minimal but necessary steps for the whole process.
My idea is to take uncleaned previously fire formed brass from my rifle and
1. Mass lube, resize and deprime
2. Wet tumble to clean lube off and get primer pockets cleaner
3. Swage primer pocket (if necessary) and trim if necessary, deburr case mouth
4. Simply run remaining steps of priming only in station one, drop powder in station 2, seat bullet in station 3 and finally crimp in station 4 if necessary.
My only concern is not cleaning cases prior to resizing and depriming. I don't think that will be an issue. BTW, I want to wet tumble as that is how I prep my 9mm cases which I reload about 1000/month. Your thoughts.
Prioritize things in a different order. Case preparation comes before anything, and the first order of case prep is not cleaning. Primer pocket cleaning receives incredible press, but is 100 percent waste of time, so I wouldn't fuss over it. I shoot benchrest accuracy with my rifles and stopped doing it 40 years ago. Mixed brass have far more velocity variations than any other irregularities! First, cull out any military cases and separate them aside. Buy a simple one-stage press and mount a Lee universal decapping die on it, and run all your crimped military cases through it, then swage them. Trim all cases to length. NOW is the time to clean them. I dry tumble all my cases in walnut media, and it's perfect. I see absolutely no purpose for fussing over this extraordinarily unimportant and overblown part of the reloading procedure. Like dirty primer pockets, dirty interiors make no difference whatsoever. It's just a powder compartment, and burnng powder granules could care less and are not going to change their burning rate or efficiency. Does a person polish the inside of his wood stove every night before adding logs? I vastly prefer Lee case lube to ANY other lube, and I've used them all. A very, very, very, little goes a long way. You can thin it with a small amount of alcohol. Just put all your cases in a plastic tub with a lid on it and shake them with the lube until each case has a haze on them. A haze, not a layer. Allow for the haze to dry. It may take as much as two minutes on a bad day. Load them through all stages of the Dillon. When done, your ammo is completely water proof. Put them all back into that lubrication tub and fill it with warm water and a few drops of Dawn dish detergent. Use both hands to agitate them thoroughly until squeaky clean. Rinse completely. Spread out on a large bath towel and dry them off. Typing this took longer than doing it.
I use common coconut oil. I apply either with fingertips (like lube wax) or roll on a pad. Very inexpensive, clean, easy to wipe off (removes residues on the case too). You only need a very little to get butter-smooth FL resizing.
I use RCBS Case Lube 2 (water-based) for neck lube just before sizing with a nylon bore brush. The coconut oil is too oily for inside the neck.
After sizing, I roll the cases on a terrycloth towel, heat them up and shake them for a few seconds.
Simple, easy-peasy! Try it and you will abandon all other case lubes.
Great video!!!
Nice video, thanks
Thanks for another great video I'm going to resize some 308 brass to 7mm-08 it's cheaper to buy.
Nice video! I'm a fan of the lanolin and alcohol spray method myself. I do get a dented neck once in a while. Next time I'll try wiping the necks clean beforehand. Thanks for the tip!
SomeGuyInSandy
I'm well aware of Lanolin and alcohol, which I used in the 70s. Lanolin is one of the oldest case lubricants that was used 100 years ago, but it's unnecessarily sticky and thick, and very prone to denting cases and even distorting them. There's no need whatsoever to use such antiquated methods when much better alternatives are available, that are easier, less costly, easier to wash off, and are nowhere near such a nuisance. I appreciate your faithful adherence to tradition, but lubing cases is not dry fly fishing, and there is no cult associated with lubing cases that needs historic preservation. Understand that the best lube is the one that gets the job done with the least physical presence and minimal viscosity.
Meh, 100 years old or not, I spray on a very small amount, and run them. Pretty easy, even if it is outdated. Thanks.
@@SomeGuyInSandy I agree with you, i like DCL lube its a lanolin case lube, i spray in a bag then i never dent cases because i use mutch less in a closed bag. I would die if would have to use Lee shit lube on like 1000 shells.
Thank you!
I did not think Crisco would work so well. I use with my black powder guns never thought it would work for sizing cases. I am starting to get the feeling a lot of specialty products you see people selling really arn't needed.
Thank you
your videos are great, I'm working on watching all of them. I was my resized cases in Dawn before I load them, did I hear you correctly that you wash your loaded cases in water and Dawn, you don't have any fear of possible water contamination to your loaded rounds. I know primers and bullets are seated tight but there could be a chance of water getting in.
Good video. Some of those...petroleum-based, I don't think I'd ever use though. For clarification, did you say "never use graphite" on the outside of cases for full length resizing...or are you averse to using it for case necks too? I really like the Lee case lube myself. If I do large quantities, I will use the homemade lanolin/iso-heet spray. However, I then wet tumble them after resizing to remove any possibility of it inside the case, necks and primer pockets. I'm sure that additional step would drive most people crazy!
Very educational video thank you for it. I do have a question, what would happen if you accidentally loaded that resized round into 7 mm-08 and fired it?
Thanks.
Yes, yet another great vid. I was wondering if you could help me understand something better? I was quite surprised when you didn't lube the neck area. I understand watching your video the concerns shoulder with denting. When you run that case into the die I would expect the neck to be experiencing the most deformation since it's being squeezed down to a smaller caliber. How come no lube is required here? Is it because the smaller surface area doesn't generated enough surface tension to cause problems? Sorry if I'm geeking out just trying to understand it a little better and you're the only one who explains these things real clear! BTW, thanks for making me smarter....
Never, ever, lube above the shoulder of the case, which causes hydraulic dents, except with very light amounts of tossed Lee lube or similar drying lubricant when allowed to fully dry. Lubrication has nothing to do with the effects of case stretching nor the mechanical function of sizing. It is only used to prevent seizure in the die. The small surface area and ductility of the neck and shoulder provide the means to resize that section without lube. It is the hard case body that gets stuck. Even dry lubes, when used excessively, will dent cases when applied on the neck or shoulder. A very light amount may be applied with a nylon case neck brush to the inside of the neck, if the sizing ball is sticking. Apply lubrication only to the body of the case, using the lightest possible application, but NEVER to the neck and shoulder.
I use the Lee sizing lube but for years used beeswax based boot water proofing.
Have you ever used Imperial sizing lube? Also about the static electricity I heard you could use a dryer sheet to help the problem is that true? Thank you for your valuable time and information!
No one ever told me to not lube the shoulder? Do we also not lube the neck? I have learned a lot from your video's! I shoot F-Class T/R with Win .308 and a 6.5-06 out of 32inch cut rifled barrel in Unlimited. Always learning. I use a single shot rifled slug gun 12ga., 10/22 and 45/70 Lever Action for hunting. My Dad was self taught and he taught me so we are always learning! Thanks for your video's!
buckaroobonsi555
Any wet lubrication of the outside of the neck will gather onto the shoulder, which can create hydraulic compression between the shoulder and die and make wrinkles or dents. The sharper shouldered cases are more prone to such issues. That's why I prefer Lee case lube, which I can toss on the entire case, and allow to dry, eliminating the hydraulic effect. If tossed wet, just wipe the neck and shoulder off. Good old case lube pads sold everywhere are great for small amounts of cases, as they allow you to roll half a dozen cases neatly, where no lube contacts the shoulder. I used them for many years and they were foolproof.
Yes my Dad and I use Lee Case Lube. We use a Lee Anniversary set to develop loads than a DIllion 550B to mass produce them after we work up a good load. Sinclair is just too expensive for me so I use Lee and Hornady and RCBS dies in that order. I compete on a budget. I go their to win obviously but I am not willing to spend what it would cost to be truly competitive plus I have to work and go to school etc....I am not retired so I cannot sit around shooting and reloading all day like some of those retired Doctors, Lawyers and Engieers.....LOL Most of all I do it to have fun.
I sometimes get dents on the shoulders when reloading 300 Win Mag for my Dad. I am guessing I am over lubing and I need to stop lubing the short neck and the shoulder. Thanks!
Great video as usual. Can a carbide resizing die be used on a slightly tapered 'straight-wall' case like a 350 legend?
1 part of lanolin / 8 to 12 part of isopropanol alcohol (depend of the consistancy you want), works very well (that's probably the same recipe than Dillon and RCBS case lube, and certainly others)
Yes, it's the most messy, antiquated, costly, difficult to remove, and unnecessary lubricant ever devised. The ONLY lube I have used for 20 years and which I assuredly advise over any other, is Lee case lube. It's an industrial metal FORMING lubricant, made specifically for extreme pressure forming, it's extremely efficient, requiring a bare trace, it is super cheap and economical (one small tube lasts me for 3 years), it's water soluble, and washes off with warm water and dish detergent, or it can be wiped off with a wet cloth, and it works wet or dry. It's superior to anything I have ever used, because it's the only lubricant that started life as a metal reforming lube and not as boot wax or hair grease (that's where the lanolin recipe came from). I have used every possible lubricant available, including the ancient lanolin recipe, and I have used the best and the worst, and have sized big 30-06 cases down to 22-250 cases, and I know what works. The last lubricant I would ever recommend is that lanolin recipe or any of those gunky commercial versions used by your great great grandfather to keep his hair down and his mustache up.
Yes, but I wonder how toxic that stuff is??
@@GunBlue490As a former lanolin case lube guy, I couldn’t agree with you more. Thank you for educating me - again!
NICE SELECTION OF CASE LUBES I HAVE BEEN LOADING FOR OVER 40 YEARS & THE BEST LUBE I HAVE FOUND IS MARVEL MYSTERY OIL OR AUTOMATIC TRANS OIL THEY ALSO HELP CLEAN THE BRASS.
Thanks but I think you can understand that most of us want NOTHING to do with anything related to "trannies"!
For case lube I use a mixture of HEET carb cleaner and Lanolin. I get the Lanolin from the local health food store and HEET from the local auto parts store. Mix a whole bottle of HEET with a quarter bottle of Lanolin and put into a spray bottle. I then take a couple of hundred cases and put them in a plastic drum with a clean rag sprayed with the HEET/Lanolin. Shake for a minute or two and you will have perfectly lubed cases.
Cases sprayed with this stay lubed for a long time. This mixture is the same stuff that a lot of manufacturers use like Dillon. The HEET evaporates quickly and the Lanolin lubes the cases as good as or better than commercially available products at a much lower cost. 2 bucks for HEET and about 5 bucks for Lanolin for thousands of rounds of reloading!
HEET is 91% isopropyl alcohol. Iso is cheaper than HEET.
Thank you for this video, Sir. It has a lot of good information.
I'm going to size a bunch of new .30-'06 brass up to .338-'06 A-Square, and I'm wondering if I need to also use a very small amount of lube on the inside of the case mouths(as well as the outside of the case walls) when I do this. These cases haven't been annealed yet, and I'm assuming that there was a small amount of work - hardening that occurred when they were formed at the factory. Is annealing something that should be done, and how often?
Thanks again for your channel, and for your help!
How about Redding Imperial Sizing Wax, can it be cleaned off cases via the Dawn soap method you describe?
I'm a big fan of your videos, but I will have to disagree with you a bit on this one. My dad started me reloading in 1965 when I was ten years old, so I have more than a small amount of experience. I started reloading using lanolin as a reloading lubricant. It works well, though it can be a bit stiff when cold. I used to warm it a bit with a hair dryer, then apply it with my fingers. It not only works as a case lube, but when you apply it with your fingers, it also keeps the skin on your fingers and hands from cracking. Lanolin is the base lubricant in some spray case lubes like the stuff sold by Dillon. Their spray lube is simply lanolin dissolved in isopropyl alcohol. When the alcohol evaporates, it leaves the lanolin behind. It is a great lube, and it comes off with relative ease by wiping it with a rag, though I don't like the smell of isopropyl alcohol. When I lived in Idaho in the second half of the 1970s and through the 1980s I started using the Lee case lube when Lee introduced it. It worked well in the dry climate of Idaho, but when I moved to Southeast Alaska in 1990, where it rains from 90 inches to 170 inches a year, I began having problems with the Lee case lube. Although it still worked fine for lubing cases, I soon discovered Lee case lube is not only water soluble, it is also hygroscopic (it attracts water). After a reloading session, I would oil the outside of my reloading dies (mostly RCBS dies) and put them back in the plastic box they came in. When I came back to use my dies again, I discovered that the inside of the sizing dies had rusted!! I checked the sizing dies in every one of my dies sets and discovered that any that had been used with Lee case lube had rusted to some extent. The die sets I had used most recently just had light coats of rust in the sizing die that cleaned out easily, but some calibers I hadn't reloaded for awhile had heavy rust. The sizing dies for two cartridges had to be replaced due to rust pits. I went back to lanolin for sizing, but a friend told me to try Imperial sizing die wax. I have been very happy with it. It seems to work very well, and a light rubbing with a clean rag removes the lubricant from the cases. To remove Imperial Sizing Die Wax, I usually put all of my cases, after they have been sized, in an old towel and by raising and lowering the alternate ends of the towel, simply roll the cases around in the towel. I have tried a number of other commercial case lubes, but I've been happiest with Imperial Sizing Die Wax or lanolin. I have discovered that the Hornady "One Shot" spray case lube will soften or partially dissolve the surface of some commercial plastic loading blocks. My RCBS plastic loading blocks were the most affected. They have been permanently discolored and the edges rounded by the "One Shot" lube. For this reason, plus the fact that I don't like its smell, I don't like to use Hornady "One Shot" lubricant. I have never had a sizing die rust when lanolin, Imperial Sizing Die Wax, or Hornady "One Shot" have been used for sizing cases. Although Crisco may work to lube cases, I don't suggest using it. Crisco can get rancid and quite nasty if it sits around for too long. I don't know what rancid Crisco might do to the inside of a sizing die. Imperial Sizing Die Wax used to be a bit hard to find at times. Several years ago, Redding began producing Imperial Sizing Die Wax, so now it is much easier to find. About 45 years ago I went into a pharmacy in Moscow, Idaho and asked if they had lanolin for sale. They had to order it in, but they got a one pound container of anhydrous lanolin for me. I still have over half of that container left, and of the almost half that was used, I gave away most of it to friends who took up reloading. I gave it to them in plastic film containers (does anyone remember film for taking photographs?) Several of those people who reload regularly still have some of that lanolin left.
Aerosol spray works great if you barely spray the inside of a big ziplock bag, then pour in your brass and roll it around. Doesn't get on the inside of the brass. Coats very well, and it last forever.
I do the same thing, it works great, requires a minimum amount of aerosol, it is fast and efficient
Do you have any videos on full length resizing and bumping the shoulder of your brass I'm having a problem where my cases are getting stuck in the chamber I'm shooting a 220 Swift and have trimmed all the cases to spec but they're still getting stuck in the chamber so I figured the shoulder needs to be bumped could I have your opinion on this matter it seems I'm always going. I always reference your videos if I want to do something you seem to be very knowledgeable
Like SomeGuyInSandy said , I have heard about the lanolin and alcohol method , and no where on YT did anyone say things were as easy as you showed and explained . Thank you so much for the awesome info and en depth descriptions of what you actually do . Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us , keep up the great work , have fun and be safe .
Donald R
I apply a standard rule of thumb in my life. I consistently find that simplicity is inversely proportional to the complications described. To put it another way; the more complex and confusing an issue appears, the easier and less complex it really is. My grandmother taught me not to make mountains out of molehills, and to find more constructive things to do with my time than to invent trouble.
I appreciate that , thank you again . Your grandfather was very right on that point , about not making mountains out of mole hills . I also like the idea of Keep It Simple , the KISS method of things, yeah , I know other words go into the saying , but some can just be really derogatory . Thank you again , love your videos , have watched almost all of them over the past few months .
Thanks for your support.
Do you use the neck brush in addition to running brass through a tumbler?