Mr Cortina, just want to say thank you for your time and effort. I am in England and we are in the dark ages sort of blind following the partially sighted. Many people probably laugh at me but to me having these videos is like Michael Schumacher teaching somebody how to take a corner from basis. Thank you
Your kind of like Quigley when he sent a representative target to a ranch owner in Aus. as a resume for his marksmanship. Bovine scatology walks targets talk. Thank you for your very fine and clear lecture on reloading. Like every everybody else out in ammo land I was not getting the performance out of my rifles that I wanted,. I was leaving the range frustrated and disappointed time after time. On a few occasions I was getting 100 meter cloverleaf with my 338/378 Weatherby but could not get cloverleafs consistently.. I now know why, bullet seating depth I was not paying close attention. I am a bit miffed at u because I now have to purchase a 249 dollar Amp annealing machine that I did not know I needed before I watched your video. Only kidding of course, thanks for the video and keep em coming
Mr. Matt Davidson, good luck to you in your efforts. Good on you for learning about ballistics and firearms while living in a country which has outlawed them. You're a patriot for your nation and I hope God blesses you in your pursuit of knowledge. Much love from the States to you.
@@JohnDoe-l1kmya5s the irony of your comment is that precision target shooting with custom bolt actions is one the popular types of shooting you can do in the UK.
I do it SLIGHTLY different but you blew my mind with using the calipers on the die... THATS a repeatable way to do it. Thanks for the tip man! Game changer!
I'm glad you showed how "sensitive" the dies are. I've heard people say just move the die down 1/4 turn at a time until the brass chambers easily. 1/4 turn is about 18 thousandths!
As a fellow machine shop owner and hand loader, I always key in on how someone uses calipers. It's always easy to spot someone that knows how to hold, operate, and get correct measurements using them. I know it's a stupid observation, but we in the industry just know a professional when we see one. Thanks for the content Erik.
Not a stupid observation at all. I had watched this video a year or more ago and didn’t notice how Erik uses the calipers. This time it jumped out at me.
It isn't rocket science , but you really take the time to explain it where anyone can understand. That is truly understanding your craft ! And the best part is your ease at which you SHARE your success !
Erik this has to be the best video on setting up your sizing die for proper shoulder bump that I have ever seen. I find all of your videos to be extremely well done and very informative. I have been loading since I was 16 years old and I'm now 74 and I still learn a lot from your videos. Thank you so much.
when i rebarrel a comp. rifle for a customer. i take the 1" i cut off the muzzle end and chuck it up square it up and make the customer a bump gauge with the reamer i used to chamber their barrel with and stencil the caliber on it as a service to them so they get an accurate bump gauge.
@@hazcat640 I would say that there were two points of view to Erik's response. Erik could have just said that's great and moved on, no one would have learned a thing other than the obvious that Mark Skaggs goes above and beyond for his customers. On the other hand Erik gave a tip about doing something that a lot of people can use even if they are not getting a custom barrel. Or if they are getting a custom barrel an easy way to get a custom bump gauge with out part of all of the work to do the machining of the stub of the barrel. Maybe more custom barrel work would come with a bump gauge if most of the work is done already. Time is money or more time to do other things.
I'm actually really good at reloading and know allot about it, but saying that I still learn something new from you in every video you make. I really appreciate you making these.
Been shooting Senior Olympic pistol. Just started precision rifle. I'd like to give a big thank you for ALL your videos. Proves your never too old to learn.
Perfect vid thanks Erik. I've been searching for ages to find how to setup a FL sizing die properly for shoulder bump and strangely very little info on youtube on how to do this. Except for this vid ... well done, from the antipodes I appreciate. Very generous of you to share your knowledge and in such a clear manner. Thank you.
This works perfectly! I didnt realize I was resizing my brass .007 too much. When raising the ram my shellholder lightly touched the die before adjusting and after adjusting, so without this measuring I'd never know. This is the best way I've seen to get there. I had to swap the lock ring on my RCBS die to one that clamps because the RCBS set screw isn't consistent for this. Thanks Erik!
I'm a subscriber Eric and I watch most of your content. I just gote a new rifle and because I didn't have anything else to do I set up my FL Redding Match sizing die like you describe. One thing I don't feel competent enough to do is remove the extractor/ejector from my bolt. Removing the firing pin let the bolt drop freely in the action and I went from there. I'm not a precision shooter ( I'm 78 and have a large Cataract in my shooting eye) but I really enjoy "messing"with my rifles and every advantage I can gain helps. Thanks for this video and others that are similar.
I am a slow learner for openers and have always had a lot of difficulty keeping track of multiple details at the same time. Good checklists are my salvation. Erik and F-Class John have made it possible for me to reload precision ammunition with a high degree of confidence,. I can't think you enough.
Thank you very much for the detailed video. You have saved me from destroying a ton of brass! Your channel should really have a million subscribers. Greeting from South Africa.
I do something similar but use shims under the lock ring to make the fine adjustments. Once I get my desired case headspace, I record the shim thickness for future reference. Being a cheapskate, I use the same set resizing die on different rifles of the same caliber and install the required shims needed for that particular rifle. Then I don't need to worry with resetting the lock ring.
@@jasonbroom7147 Well, I shoot a Ren 788 in .223 and an AR in 5.56, and I use the same dies for both, so there is that. I can adjust the shims to set the headspace for either firearm without having to readjust the die setting. I have two different .30-06s I reload for, using the same dies. Both have different head spacing.
You sir are the most knowledgable reloading expert on the internet. There may be others out here that can top your ability to educate us, bet they are not on the web. Thank you.
All of this information is outstanding thank you sir. And sweet bang stick! I wanted to note also that the use of quality calipers like this man has is a must. I had a 0.004" difference between 10 rounds OAL (ogive) using the cheap $50.00 hornady and rcbs Chinese calipers. They all read zero, then I used my Mitutoyo calipers I use on my metal lathe and found the error! Do yourself a huge favor folks and spend the money on Mitutoyo or Starrett. The few extra dollars you spend may save you a gun in the end!
Eric I just want to say Thank You Sir for always taking the time to try to explain what it takes to get to that high level of accuracy. So many people have no idea that small details make a huge difference in a rifle. Don't ever let those that feed negative things to u stop u from what u do. God Bless U hope u do great at all ur matches. Please keep the great info coming I watch them all
Genius on making your DIY Die" Best Instruction on you tube yet ! Simple straight foward language on point & Easy to understamd Total Process !" Finally a Great Specific Instruction by A Great Instructor ! Thank You Friend !"
Everything I've seen you do makes sense and its quick and effective I've reloaded shotshells for ducks,geese and turkeys for 20+ years but this gig is more math and I appreciate your help and time making it easier to get to BZO
I just set up my 7mm rem mag FL die using your method. Took me 5 minutes and my first piece of brass that was “over” bumped is still longer than factory brass so it’s still serviceable. Thanks for making it quick easy and accurate!
Thanks Erik, really appreciate the time you take to make great content for us all to watch! Been reloading for a few years but just got into long range where these details really matter.
Mr. Cortina, Always an awesome video sir and thank you so much for your posts. I am an avid Reloader and shooter from Northwest Louisiana and I appreciate your instructional videos so much! I always learn a lot and you have helped me be a better Reloader and shooter. Thank you sir!
Hi Erik; I enjoyed your well done and informative video for the long range set. I think I've kind of been doing what you do for about the last 50 years, although a lot slower, sneaking up on end result from the other end of the resizing operation. About 1972, I got a steal of a deal on a Husqvarna Featherweight in 30 Newton, complete with reloading dies and a 100 pieces of Speer brass. Somebody bought the rifle new and had the gunsmith who also owned the shop rebarrel it to 30 Newton. He never came back. So I got the original light sheep hunting rifle in a flat shooting cartridge (but already an orphan) for dirt cheap. He was honest enough to tell me that might be the last brass I would ever find for 30 Newton, and told me how to extend case life by both sizing die adjustment and annealing. Anyways, he showed me 'press' or 'crush' fit resizing as well as annealing in an alcohol lamp flame. So by successively screwing the FL sizing die down, you first got to a point where the sized brass wouldn't come close to chambering (only body being sized and shoulder being pushed forward I've always assumed), to where it would finally close with some effort. From that point, kept turning the die down until I hit the point where it would reliably close with some resistance - and no worries about finding myself on the top of a mountain on a hot day with a big full curl bighorn or Dall sheep, and a bolt that wouldn't close. That was with my Baer C-press, although that might date me a bit; it was replaced about 1974 by a Bonanza Co-Ax that I still use for all non-bulk reloading. I don't think comparators and other tools existed back in the early 70's. Or if they did, it was the benchrest boys who had them and they weren't telling us about them in Handloader Magazine. It was slower than what you do, but it worked. Has worked on all the rifles I bought since then, come to think of it. One thing I do that I notice you don't do - I expect you've thought of it but have decided it isn't worth it.. As I'm adjusting my dies, I leave the lock ring fairly loose as they turn them looking for the sweet spot of bolt closure. When I have the right amount of resizing, I put the next case in and run it up into the FL die with the lock ring still loose. After the press is cammed over into TDC, THEN I tighten the die lock ring. My thinking when I started doing this with the Co-Ax was that the shellholder at the base, the case with it's base sitting flat in the shell holder, and the die having some wiggle room in the slot that it slides in to, perhaps leaving the die locking ring loose initially would allow the case sliding into the die to move into best alignment around a central axis. If I tightened the die lock ring then, hopefully everything would be tightened while in best alignment. I don't see any reason to change that now for my hunting and varmint rifles, and I've never shot at distances like you do since retiring from the military. But - just curious - do you do anything similar with how and when you tighten down the lock rings in order to get everything in best alignment? Anyways, thanks for entertaining and informative videos. Best...
Great video! Thanks for all you are doing! I have always had an interest in long range shooting and reloading, so your videos have been great! Just got my wife onboard with getting me into my first PRS match, we will see if it happens!
Wow! No more quarter turns, half turns and all kinds of guess work. Thanks, another great and informative video. Can't want to start loading for my 7mm Rem Mag.
Thank you Erik, your instructions are always clear and precise, as such the information you give "freely" is extremely valuable, instantly useful and so greatly appreciated.
Thanks Erik for that tutorial. I followed your die body thread math a little further and found the following. Every five degrees of lock ring rotation will yield one thousandth of an inch of lift or drop on the die body. While this is not necessary to know for your adjustment method it gives a frame of reference for why this procedure can be so difficult. All the best to you.
I love how this video isn’t 45 minutes long. Pretty sad you have to elaborate like you do for these videos for some people and critics but thanks for the short and simple videos!
I adjust my dies and cases samething to you Erick.Thanks for your great video.I live in Quebec,Canada,i dont speak english very well,just a little bit.
👍 my dad has an antique gunsmithing all the way through to handloading that tape tree. My dad’s been using it before I was ever born my dad’s 83. He hasn’t hand loaded for the last 45 years. That is an old trick but it’s proven, and it is true. I use the same method on my lock ring also. 👍 I’m looking forward to some more knowledge. Have a great day. God bless.
Hey Erik. Thanks for cranking out all the content lately. I have been hand loading for many years myself, but it's always good to see another perspective.
Now that is slick! Never would have thought about doing it that way. I normally end up under sizing way too much brass to get my dies setup. Will definitely be giving this a try.
Mr. Cortina, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. This video has been such a wonderful learning addition to my new experiences in reloading. I particularly took note of your comment when you said we should not rely on 0.002 bump if the case does not feed as you mentioned. I found this to be very relevant with my factory hunting rifle. I zeroed a fired case and started bumping the shoulder at 0.002 increments, just to stay on par with your guidance. I found that my bolt did not close freely / almost freely when I initially bumped it only by 0.002. I proceed to go down and feed the case until I felt the bolt close freely / almost freely. I applied a piece of tape at the rear and attempted to close it. I succeeded with the bolt not wanting to close. With that said, according to your advice, I was able to have only a 0.003 difference between the taped and non-taped case. I ended up bumping my case shoulder by 0.030 to achieve this level op precision. To add, resizing according to your advice, I have achieved much greater load consistancy and is well on my way to achieve a solid load for my rifle for the upconing hunting season.🎉🎉
I had to watch this twice (getting old) but this is amazing. I will do this and report back. Makes a whole lotta sense to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Erik- thanks for this- of all the tasks and processes involved in reloading, this was the one I hated most. This is a great concept and look forward to using it.
Another excellent and informative video that highlights some ‘tricks of the trade’! The tape trick is very cool, great stuff! These videos share your hard earned wisdom, we appreciate it sir!!!! Good luck and good skill at the match!!
It's also a cheap, more efficient way of checking headspace for field expediency (use two pieces of tape). Instead of spending hundreds on go, no-go gages (still worth every penny if you do have them).
Thanks for posting, this was very helpful. Although I've read a lot about what shoulder bumping is, it has never been explained in this way so your explanation was a lot more clear about how to exactly do it. Looks like I'm going to buy myself the brass comparator now
Great video - you have made sanity out of a frustrating task - I always tried to think of the ring like a clock face and move it from 8:00 to 8:20 to get .002’’ - chasing it all over the place - I can’t wait to try your method!!
Interesting to see the proper shoulder bump. The tool that I have developed lets you set the bump even more exactly than your method and it is not expensive. Regard Martin from UK.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge (you solve few of my problems, I was able to understand what I was looking for (always a good start :) You improve and open the discipline to a lot of new shooters! Cheers from Australia 🦘
You are an outstanding teacher. Thanks for your clear, concise instruction, it is very much appreciated. I have learned a great deal from your videos. Thanks again!
Thank you for doing this video it was extremely informative and extremely helpful for someone (me) who is just getting into reloading. Again, thank you.
That’s certainly a good point and thank you for the great video. I had to size with each of my competition shell holders and do comparator against fireformed to find my 1-2thou bump. And I think that trick with the tape was awesome!
Fantastic Erik, very concise and scientific by definition, theory, aim, test, verify results and conclusion. I am brand new to PRS and haven’t even fired my first shot through my brand new RPR. I intend to reload and your video has made me 100% confident in the task of resizing at least. I was an aircraft mechanic so to me knowing what you are doing (especially when it’s this important) is paramount. I have watched tons of videos on this subject but yours instills that confidence. It was the verifying of the brass in the chamber it’s going to be fired from that did it for me. It’s obvious now but like I tell my kids, you don’t know unless you KNOW. I’ve subscribed and look forward to seeing more. Only wish I lived closer to your shop and not all the way down here in Oz. Cheers mate, keep up the the great content.
@@ErikCortina Eric I’m messaging gunblue a utube gun guy old guy says neck sizing is the way. I told em everyone is full sizing he says it’s not precise etc I said even bench rest shooters full size. What is your take is neck sizing best for total accuracy? Do bench rest shooters only neck size???
Nice video, interesting and I'm super Intrigued...but I can't do this with my tikka as I have the extractor on the bolt which will not permit the bolt fall loosely with an empty case. How would you do it then?
Nice. I’ve had these Mitotoyo calipers that can measure things precisely and not once in years have I thought about measuring my sizing die. 😅. thank you for this video.
Loving all the videos and knowledge. I like that you are referenceing from bolt operation. The proof is in the puddin' so to speak. Since it's a hard contact referenced measurement anyway. I check the bottomed out measurement, back the die out, and then use a shim gage under the die to change the offset as required so I'm getting the offset directly from the press and die. I use the witness mark too, but I put it where the split in the ring is and then put that spot lined up with the left side of the U in my Forster so it is in the same spot every time I use the die. I think I picked that up from Zediker, but I've been doing it so long I really don't remember anymore. I know Glen recommends locking the ring in the press with brass in the die so you are holding everything concentric and not inducing any cant from the thread engagement as you tighten. Keep'em small.
Thanks Erik! This way is more precise than mine. Question: Could I measure from the top of the sizing die to the lock ring? It would save me a lot of time as I don't own a CO Ax yet.
Erik, Thank you for keeping it simple. I notice on your rifle has a Kahles scope mounted on a Near Manufacturing scope mount from Alberta, Canada. I know Richard personally and have 5 of his mounts on different rifles. Probably the one best scope mounts made. And I like to support small business.
Great explanation Erik! Thank you. I bumped mine back 0.003" (not using this method) and the bolt is still a bit sticky to close. Is this safe? Also, is it necessary to strip the bolt and remove firing pin, to do this? Thanks
Are we ok with sticking to .002" bump across the board on our off the shelf rifles that require some force to close the bolt with an empty chamber? Thank you!
I fix the die upside down in a vice and measure the distance between die bottom and the lock ring the way Erik shows in this video. A Hornady lock ring can be tightened, so that it can be turned carefully with a plier. By attaching a modified paperclip into the gap of the lock ring, it is possible to get a pretty good indication about small increments and .001 turns can be applied in a controlled way. Best regards from Germany
David Tubbs does not do this. He uses a Neil Jones custom die that has the custom neck/shoulder bushing that resizes the neck and bumps the shoulder simultaneously. He measures a fired case with the comparator, then bumps the shoulder back 4 to 5 thou. Your brass is worked harder in the AR10/15 platforms.
Yes if you bump the shoulder back..004to.005 in any brake action,bolt,auto feed rifle pistol exc you will work your brass alot. And all auto loaders especially ar10/15s. Are very hard on brass due to extractor and feed the variables are numbered.. as for David tubb let him speak for himself.plus every chamber and cal, is different in all not being the same or wanting the same IE for all
I am using a Redding S type die. I size my cases (Lapua brass) and I get some different measurements. For example, using my comparator I get 1.5525, 1.5535, and 1.5530. Is this acceptable? I notice when I measure new Lapua brass it’s the same way- and it’s even a wider range of headspace variance. I am using an RCBS single stage press and Hornady one shot case lube.
Graynote Media I just took 4 cases that all measured 1.5530 and resized them, wiped off case lube and measured them again. 2 measure 1.5520, the other two measure 1.5525
Graynote Media Thats just 4 cases, I think if I sized more there would be more of a headspace variance, that seems to be what happens when I do like 25 cases at a time
S. Manuel Hornady headspace comparator kit says different lots of fire-formed brass may measure differently. Also work-hardening. The type and amount of lubrication applied to the cases can have an effect on the re-sized dimensions. A variation in your lube technique can and will be detected by the gauge.
Mr Cortina, just want to say thank you for your time and effort. I am in England and we are in the dark ages sort of blind following the partially sighted. Many people probably laugh at me but to me having these videos is like Michael Schumacher teaching somebody how to take a corner from basis. Thank you
Your kind of like Quigley when he sent a representative target to a ranch owner in Aus. as a resume for his marksmanship. Bovine scatology walks targets talk. Thank you for your very fine and clear lecture on reloading. Like every everybody else out in ammo land I was not getting the performance out of my rifles that I wanted,. I was leaving the range frustrated and disappointed time after time. On a few occasions I was getting 100 meter cloverleaf with my 338/378 Weatherby but could not get cloverleafs consistently.. I now know why, bullet seating depth I was not paying close attention. I am a bit miffed at u because I now have to purchase a 249 dollar Amp annealing machine that I did not know I needed before I watched your video. Only kidding of course, thanks for the video and keep em coming
Mr. Matt Davidson, good luck to you in your efforts. Good on you for learning about ballistics and firearms while living in a country which has outlawed them. You're a patriot for your nation and I hope God blesses you in your pursuit of knowledge. Much love from the States to you.
@@JohnDoe-l1kmya5s the irony of your comment is that precision target shooting with custom bolt actions is one the popular types of shooting you can do in the UK.
I do it SLIGHTLY different but you blew my mind with using the calipers on the die... THATS a repeatable way to do it. Thanks for the tip man! Game changer!
I'm glad you showed how "sensitive" the dies are. I've heard people say just move the die down 1/4 turn at a time until the brass chambers easily. 1/4 turn is about 18 thousandths!
As a fellow machine shop owner and hand loader, I always key in on how someone uses calipers. It's always easy to spot someone that knows how to hold, operate, and get correct measurements using them. I know it's a stupid observation, but we in the industry just know a professional when we see one. Thanks for the content Erik.
Very true. Not a machinist, but I noticed it as well.
Not a stupid observation at all. I had watched this video a year or more ago and didn’t notice how Erik uses the calipers. This time it jumped out at me.
Also a Machinist, I liked how he remeasured after tightening the screws!
Mr. Cortina, there are times when your genius shines. This how-to vid, is one of those times. Thanks a bunch!
It isn't rocket science , but you really take the time to explain it where anyone can understand. That is truly understanding your craft ! And the best part is your ease at which you SHARE your success !
Long range precision shooting and reloading is rocket science.
Erik this has to be the best video on setting up your sizing die for proper shoulder bump that I have ever seen. I find all of your videos to be extremely well done and very informative. I have been loading since I was 16 years old and I'm now 74 and I still learn a lot from your videos. Thank you so much.
Thanks I have been reloading since 85 and I pick up something every time I watch you
when i rebarrel a comp. rifle for a customer. i take the 1" i cut off the muzzle end and chuck it up square it up and make the customer a bump gauge with the reamer i used to chamber their barrel with and stencil the caliber on it as a service to them so they get an accurate bump gauge.
Just run their reamer shoulder into Hornady comparator. That’s what I did with mine and works perfectly.
Eric wasn't gracious enough to say it but that is a really nice service you provide for your customers and the mark of a craftsman.
@@hazcat640 I would say that there were two points of view to Erik's response. Erik could have just said that's great and moved on, no one would have learned a thing other than the obvious that Mark Skaggs goes above and beyond for his customers. On the other hand Erik gave a tip about doing something that a lot of people can use even if they are not getting a custom barrel. Or if they are getting a custom barrel an easy way to get a custom bump gauge with out part of all of the work to do the machining of the stub of the barrel. Maybe more custom barrel work would come with a bump gauge if most of the work is done already. Time is money or more time to do other things.
Very Nice Mark Skaggs
My smith, Jon Beanland, did the same for me. It is also useful for seeing, measuring, and setting the trim to gap.
That might be the most helpful thing I've learned down this rabbit hole of reloading
I'm actually really good at reloading and know allot about it, but saying that I still learn something new from you in every video you make. I really appreciate you making these.
A lotta mates are learning from you in Aussy mate!
Been shooting Senior Olympic pistol. Just started precision rifle. I'd like to give a big thank you for ALL your videos. Proves your never too old to learn.
Perfect vid thanks Erik. I've been searching for ages to find how to setup a FL sizing die properly for shoulder bump and strangely very little info on youtube on how to do this. Except for this vid ... well done, from the antipodes I appreciate. Very generous of you to share your knowledge and in such a clear manner. Thank you.
This works perfectly! I didnt realize I was resizing my brass .007 too much. When raising the ram my shellholder lightly touched the die before adjusting and after adjusting, so without this measuring I'd never know. This is the best way I've seen to get there. I had to swap the lock ring on my RCBS die to one that clamps because the RCBS set screw isn't consistent for this. Thanks Erik!
I am 81 years old and I countinually learn from you when I watch your presentation
I like using Redding's .002" graduaded competition shellholder set and set the die so the press won't cam over. Makes it easy and repeatable.
I'm a subscriber Eric and I watch most of your content. I just gote a new rifle and because I didn't have anything else to do I set up my FL Redding Match sizing die like you describe. One thing I don't feel competent enough to do is remove the extractor/ejector from my bolt. Removing the firing pin let the bolt drop freely in the action and I went from there. I'm not a precision shooter ( I'm 78 and have a large Cataract in my shooting eye) but I really enjoy "messing"with my rifles and every advantage I can gain helps. Thanks for this video and others that are similar.
I am a slow learner for openers and have always had a lot of difficulty keeping track of multiple details at the same time. Good checklists are my salvation. Erik and F-Class John have
made it possible for me to reload precision ammunition with a high degree of confidence,. I can't think you enough.
Myself
Thank you very much for the detailed video. You have saved me from destroying a ton of brass!
Your channel should really have a million subscribers.
Greeting from South Africa.
I do something similar but use shims under the lock ring to make the fine adjustments. Once I get my desired case headspace, I record the shim thickness for future reference. Being a cheapskate, I use the same set resizing die on different rifles of the same caliber and install the required shims needed for that particular rifle. Then I don't need to worry with resetting the lock ring.
Barry that's a great idea.
That only works if you have two cartridges with the same caliber, case diameter AND shoulder angle. How many of those are there, exactly?
@@jasonbroom7147 Well, I shoot a Ren 788 in .223 and an AR in 5.56, and I use the same dies for both, so there is that. I can adjust the shims to set the headspace for either firearm without having to readjust the die setting.
I have two different .30-06s I reload for, using the same dies. Both have different head spacing.
You sir are the most knowledgable reloading expert on the internet. There may be others out here that can top your ability to educate us, bet they are not on the web.
Thank you.
A straightforward process to follow and an actual example of using your calipers in a unique way, a hidden feature.
All of this information is outstanding thank you sir. And sweet bang stick!
I wanted to note also that the use of quality calipers like this man has is a must. I had a 0.004" difference between 10 rounds OAL (ogive) using the cheap $50.00 hornady and rcbs Chinese calipers. They all read zero, then I used my Mitutoyo calipers I use on my metal lathe and found the error! Do yourself a huge favor folks and spend the money on Mitutoyo or Starrett. The few extra dollars you spend may save you a gun in the end!
Eric I just want to say Thank You Sir for always taking the time to try to explain what it takes to get to that high level of accuracy. So many people have no idea that small details make a huge difference in a rifle. Don't ever let those that feed negative things to u stop u from what u do. God Bless U hope u do great at all ur matches. Please keep the great info coming I watch them all
Genius on making your DIY Die"
Best Instruction on you tube yet !
Simple straight foward language on point &
Easy to understamd
Total Process !"
Finally a Great Specific Instruction by A Great Instructor !
Thank You Friend !"
Everything I've seen you do makes sense and its quick and effective
I've reloaded shotshells for ducks,geese and turkeys for 20+ years but this gig is more math and I appreciate your help and time making it easier to get to BZO
I just set up my 7mm rem mag FL die using your method. Took me 5 minutes and my first piece of brass that was “over” bumped is still longer than factory brass so it’s still serviceable. Thanks for making it quick easy and accurate!
You are such a wealth of information. Just starting into reloading so some of this is going over my head but if I watch enough, I'll get it. Thanks
I never thought of measuring from the base to the ring on the sizing die. Thanks!
Thanks Erik, really appreciate the time you take to make great content for us all to watch! Been reloading for a few years but just got into long range where these details really matter.
You have no idea how much your videos help out this new reloader. Thank you.
I’ve never seen this way of doing it but I like it . I’ll have to try it . Thanks Erik 👍 . Best of luck for the PRS match . Cheers 🍻
I had to come up with it because I got tired of doing it the “trial and error” way that everyone else shows.
@@ErikCortina Eric,are you reaming your own chambers,cutting shanks and threading your own barrels?
Mr. Cortina,
Always an awesome video sir and thank you so much for your posts. I am an avid Reloader and shooter from Northwest Louisiana and I appreciate your instructional videos so much! I always learn a lot and you have helped me be a better Reloader and shooter. Thank you sir!
Thanks for the great info, from a eastern Canadian Shooter, wish we had more 1000 yd ranges up this way.
Hi Erik; I enjoyed your well done and informative video for the long range set. I think I've kind of been doing what you do for about the last 50 years, although a lot slower, sneaking up on end result from the other end of the resizing operation. About 1972, I got a steal of a deal on a Husqvarna Featherweight in 30 Newton, complete with reloading dies and a 100 pieces of Speer brass. Somebody bought the rifle new and had the gunsmith who also owned the shop rebarrel it to 30 Newton. He never came back. So I got the original light sheep hunting rifle in a flat shooting cartridge (but already an orphan) for dirt cheap. He was honest enough to tell me that might be the last brass I would ever find for 30 Newton, and told me how to extend case life by both sizing die adjustment and annealing.
Anyways, he showed me 'press' or 'crush' fit resizing as well as annealing in an alcohol lamp flame. So by successively screwing the FL sizing die down, you first got to a point where the sized brass wouldn't come close to chambering (only body being sized and shoulder being pushed forward I've always assumed), to where it would finally close with some effort. From that point, kept turning the die down until I hit the point where it would reliably close with some resistance - and no worries about finding myself on the top of a mountain on a hot day with a big full curl bighorn or Dall sheep, and a bolt that wouldn't close. That was with my Baer C-press, although that might date me a bit; it was replaced about 1974 by a Bonanza Co-Ax that I still use for all non-bulk reloading.
I don't think comparators and other tools existed back in the early 70's. Or if they did, it was the benchrest boys who had them and they weren't telling us about them in Handloader Magazine. It was slower than what you do, but it worked. Has worked on all the rifles I bought since then, come to think of it.
One thing I do that I notice you don't do - I expect you've thought of it but have decided it isn't worth it.. As I'm adjusting my dies, I leave the lock ring fairly loose as they turn them looking for the sweet spot of bolt closure. When I have the right amount of resizing, I put the next case in and run it up into the FL die with the lock ring still loose. After the press is cammed over into TDC, THEN I tighten the die lock ring. My thinking when I started doing this with the Co-Ax was that the shellholder at the base, the case with it's base sitting flat in the shell holder, and the die having some wiggle room in the slot that it slides in to, perhaps leaving the die locking ring loose initially would allow the case sliding into the die to move into best alignment around a central axis. If I tightened the die lock ring then, hopefully everything would be tightened while in best alignment.
I don't see any reason to change that now for my hunting and varmint rifles, and I've never shot at distances like you do since retiring from the military. But - just curious - do you do anything similar with how and when you tighten down the lock rings in order to get everything in best alignment?
Anyways, thanks for entertaining and informative videos. Best...
Great video! Thanks for all you are doing! I have always had an interest in long range shooting and reloading, so your videos have been great! Just got my wife onboard with getting me into my first PRS match, we will see if it happens!
Wow! No more quarter turns, half turns and all kinds of guess work. Thanks, another great and informative video. Can't want to start loading for my 7mm Rem Mag.
Wow,this is real deal,👍, never seen this before, great reload tip.
Thank you Erik 🙏
Probably the single best piece of reloading advice i have gotten on sizing brass. No nonsense, straight to the point and works great! Thanks!
Thank you Erik, your instructions are always clear and precise, as such the information you give "freely" is extremely valuable, instantly useful and so greatly appreciated.
Thanks Erik for that tutorial. I followed your die body thread math a little further and found the following. Every five degrees of lock ring rotation will yield one thousandth of an inch of lift or drop on the die body. While this is not necessary to know for your adjustment method it gives a frame of reference for why this procedure can be so difficult. All the best to you.
I love how this video isn’t 45 minutes long. Pretty sad you have to elaborate like you do for these videos for some people and critics but thanks for the short and simple videos!
To be fair to the viewers you are referring to, this video is very poorly edited and could have been presented in a much more efficient manner.
I adjust my dies and cases samething to you Erick.Thanks for your great video.I live in Quebec,Canada,i dont speak english very well,just a little bit.
Nicely presented, and without the sensationalism I’ve seen in other videos on the topic. Well done. 👍
👍 my dad has an antique gunsmithing all the way through to handloading that tape tree. My dad’s been using it before I was ever born my dad’s 83. He hasn’t hand loaded for the last 45 years. That is an old trick but it’s proven, and it is true. I use the same method on my lock ring also. 👍 I’m looking forward to some more knowledge. Have a great day. God bless.
Hey Erik. Thanks for cranking out all the content lately. I have been hand loading for many years myself, but it's always good to see another perspective.
Now that is slick! Never would have thought about doing it that way. I normally end up under sizing way too much brass to get my dies setup. Will definitely be giving this a try.
And this is why your PRS/F-class competitors keep telling you to stop sharing the secrets... Thank you!
Mr. Cortina, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. This video has been such a wonderful learning addition to my new experiences in reloading.
I particularly took note of your comment when you said we should not rely on 0.002 bump if the case does not feed as you mentioned. I found this to be very relevant with my factory hunting rifle. I zeroed a fired case and started bumping the shoulder at 0.002 increments, just to stay on par with your guidance. I found that my bolt did not close freely / almost freely when I initially bumped it only by 0.002. I proceed to go down and feed the case until I felt the bolt close freely / almost freely. I applied a piece of tape at the rear and attempted to close it. I succeeded with the bolt not wanting to close.
With that said, according to your advice, I was able to have only a 0.003 difference between the taped and non-taped case. I ended up bumping my case shoulder by 0.030 to achieve this level op precision.
To add, resizing according to your advice, I have achieved much greater load consistancy and is well on my way to achieve a solid load for my rifle for the upconing hunting season.🎉🎉
I can't believe I've never thought of this. Good video
I had to watch this twice (getting old) but this is amazing. I will do this and report back. Makes a whole lotta sense to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Erik- thanks for this- of all the tasks and processes involved in reloading, this was the one I hated most. This is a great concept and look forward to using it.
I can say this, you can teach a old dog new tricks. Keep up the great work brother.. Awesome video... I know what I will be doing this weekend....
Another excellent and informative video that highlights some ‘tricks of the trade’! The tape trick is very cool, great stuff! These videos share your hard earned wisdom, we appreciate it sir!!!! Good luck and good skill at the match!!
It's also a cheap, more efficient way of checking headspace for field expediency (use two pieces of tape). Instead of spending hundreds on go, no-go gages (still worth every penny if you do have them).
This is why you always learn from professionals, they know all of the tricks of the trade. Thanks
That tape trick is the same thing I do to my head space go gauge to turn it into a no go gauge when I'm installing a prefit barrel.
I always ask this question, who gives a thumbs down to these videos. Erik takes time to share information and people don't like it?
Neck sizers is all I can figure. 😂
Thanks for posting, this was very helpful. Although I've read a lot about what shoulder bumping is, it has never been explained in this way so your explanation was a lot more clear about how to exactly do it. Looks like I'm going to buy myself the brass comparator now
Great video - you have made sanity out of a frustrating task - I always tried to think of the ring like a clock face and move it from 8:00 to 8:20 to get .002’’ - chasing it all over the place - I can’t wait to try your method!!
I feel smarter every time I watch one of your videos.
Interesting to see the proper shoulder bump. The tool that I have developed lets you set the bump even more exactly than your method and it is not expensive. Regard Martin from UK.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge (you solve few of my problems, I was able to understand what I was looking for (always a good start :) You improve and open the discipline to a lot of new shooters! Cheers from Australia 🦘
This is the best method I have ever seen on RUclips.
Thanks it’s always good to see how other people bump there shoulders back
Thank you so much for those tips! I will be trying that on my next sizing die setup. Great content and look forward to your next videos!
I just got a set of dies for my newest rifle. I'm looking forward to trying this method out. It really makes sense. Thanks Erik.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. That’s much easier than the way I was doing it.
You are an outstanding teacher. Thanks for your clear, concise instruction, it is very much appreciated. I have learned a great deal from your videos. Thanks again!
Thank you sir, good stuff. The tape trick is slick and crazy simple.
I'm using Hornady comparator for .223 and .308 with very consistent results. Thank you very much for those instructive video, Mr. Cortina.
I just got smarter, thanks Erik!
Thank you for doing this video it was extremely informative and extremely helpful for someone (me) who is just getting into reloading. Again, thank you.
And all of sudden, Redding sales of competition shell holder sets went to zero... I use the Co-Ax so I've never used them, but still.
😂
Dang it, I just bough a set for my .308
I think I still prefer the competition shell holders because I always like contact on my shell holders
Frank Kalisz
It still makes it easy to figure out which one to use.
That’s certainly a good point and thank you for the great video. I had to size with each of my competition shell holders and do comparator against fireformed to find my 1-2thou bump. And I think that trick with the tape was awesome!
Excellent information. Thanks for taking your time to share some tips that will save many of us a lot of frustration.
Great tricks to share! Nice paint on that rifle.
Fantastic Erik, very concise and scientific by definition, theory, aim, test, verify results and conclusion. I am brand new to PRS and haven’t even fired my first shot through my brand new RPR. I intend to reload and your video has made me 100% confident in the task of resizing at least. I was an aircraft mechanic so to me knowing what you are doing (especially when it’s this important) is paramount. I have watched tons of videos on this subject but yours instills that confidence. It was the verifying of the brass in the chamber it’s going to be fired from that did it for me. It’s obvious now but like I tell my kids, you don’t know unless you KNOW.
I’ve subscribed and look forward to seeing more. Only wish I lived closer to your shop and not all the way down here in Oz.
Cheers mate, keep up the the great content.
Glad it helped.
@@ErikCortina Eric I’m messaging gunblue a utube gun guy old guy says neck sizing is the way. I told em everyone is full sizing he says it’s not precise etc I said even bench rest shooters full size. What is your take is neck sizing best for total accuracy? Do bench rest shooters only neck size???
Nice video, interesting and I'm super Intrigued...but I can't do this with my tikka as I have the extractor on the bolt which will not permit the bolt fall loosely with an empty case. How would you do it then?
Nice. I’ve had these Mitotoyo calipers that can measure things precisely and not once in years have I thought about measuring my sizing die. 😅. thank you for this video.
simple and elegant! Thanks so much!
Loving all the videos and knowledge. I like that you are referenceing from bolt operation. The proof is in the puddin' so to speak. Since it's a hard contact referenced measurement anyway. I check the bottomed out measurement, back the die out, and then use a shim gage under the die to change the offset as required so I'm getting the offset directly from the press and die. I use the witness mark too, but I put it where the split in the ring is and then put that spot lined up with the left side of the U in my Forster so it is in the same spot every time I use the die. I think I picked that up from Zediker, but I've been doing it so long I really don't remember anymore. I know Glen recommends locking the ring in the press with brass in the die so you are holding everything concentric and not inducing any cant from the thread engagement as you tighten. Keep'em small.
Thanks Erik! This way is more precise than mine. Question: Could I measure from the top of the sizing die to the lock ring? It would save me a lot of time as I don't own a CO Ax yet.
Yes
I used a feeler Guage between the shell holder and the sizing dies and it worked.
I took your advice and use this method. It’s so easy. No looking back
I like the idea of using the chamber reamer in comparator. Keeps everything identical. Thanks!
Erik, Thank you for keeping it simple.
I notice on your rifle has a Kahles scope mounted on a Near Manufacturing scope mount from Alberta, Canada. I know Richard personally and have 5 of his mounts on different rifles. Probably the one best scope mounts made. And I like to support small business.
I learned a new way to do it , thanks .
Thank you I’ve been nick sizing for years but going for the bump now
Great explanation Erik! Thank you. I bumped mine back 0.003" (not using this method) and the bolt is still a bit sticky to close. Is this safe? Also, is it necessary to strip the bolt and remove firing pin, to do this? Thanks
Thanks for the superb video! Can you give me a tip how to do this with a Blaser R8?
Thank you for this video, I feel vindicated and am going to show my doubting Thomas of a range partner.
😂
Awesome!! just did this and checked it with tape and its perfect!!!! Beautiful job.
Are we ok with sticking to .002" bump across the board on our off the shelf rifles that require some force to close the bolt with an empty chamber? Thank you!
Yes
I fix the die upside down in a vice and measure the distance between die bottom and the lock ring the way Erik shows in this video. A Hornady lock ring can be tightened, so that it can be turned carefully with a plier. By attaching a modified paperclip into the gap of the lock ring, it is possible to get a pretty good indication about small increments and .001 turns can be applied in a controlled way. Best regards from Germany
when starting with virgin brass, do we still go for node or just blow them out as inexpensively as possible?
Hell yes!’ Nice to see some common sense here on this subject and the internet!!! Much appreciated !!
Thank you for that demo I learned alot . I have one question how ❓ do u do this with a AR15/10 MY NEW AR15 IS IN 6.5grendel and Tubbs 6mmbr
Yes
David Tubbs does not do this. He uses a Neil Jones custom die that has the custom neck/shoulder bushing that resizes the neck and bumps the shoulder simultaneously. He measures a fired case with the comparator, then bumps the shoulder back 4 to 5 thou. Your brass is worked harder in the AR10/15 platforms.
Yes if you bump the shoulder back..004to.005 in any brake action,bolt,auto feed rifle pistol exc you will work your brass alot. And all auto loaders especially ar10/15s. Are very hard on brass due to extractor and feed the variables are numbered.. as for David tubb let him speak for himself.plus every chamber and cal, is different in all not being the same or wanting the same IE for all
Thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule, to share your knowledge.
Where can i buy a sizing die for the shehane I'm building?
Excellent video. I'm new to reloading. Could the firing pin and spring stay in the bolt . Would results be the same? Thanks Dave.
Erik, is there a commercial sizing die that you would recommend over all the others?
Redding Type S
I am using a Redding S type die. I size my cases (Lapua brass) and I get some different measurements. For example, using my comparator I get 1.5525, 1.5535, and 1.5530. Is this acceptable? I notice when I measure new Lapua brass it’s the same way- and it’s even a wider range of headspace variance. I am using an RCBS single stage press and Hornady one shot case lube.
Graynote Media I just took 4 cases that all measured 1.5530 and resized them, wiped off case lube and measured them again. 2 measure 1.5520, the other two measure 1.5525
Graynote Media Thats just 4 cases, I think if I sized more there would be more of a headspace variance, that seems to be what happens when I do like 25 cases at a time
S. Manuel Hornady headspace comparator kit says different lots of fire-formed brass may measure differently. Also work-hardening. The type and amount of lubrication applied to the cases can have an effect on the re-sized dimensions. A variation in your lube technique can and will be detected by the gauge.