This is a great case lube, will not go back to store bought lube. This also lasts a long time, I've used on over 1000 cases, plus on our sliding door and haven't even used half the 1st batch yet.
My only addition is a ziploc bag. I use this process with the spray lube but I have a one gallon ziploc bag dedicated to lubing. Just dump your cases in, a few squirts in the bag, work the air out, seal the bag and roll the cases around. It works beautifully to coat the cases evenly.
You'll know through experience. All you really have to accomplish is coating the inside of the bag well enough to do the "shake and bake" method.@@nathanlamberson1256
If you poured it in yes. If you spray the bag then roll the cases around it has enough alcohol to dry and not make problems. I only use the bag if I'm doing a lot of cases, generally I load 40 or 50 rifle cases at a time and just spray them as they stand in a loading block and I make sure to get a bit inside the neck to help with sizing.@@joshnavarre9807
I'be been using this combo for a while now and never had a stuck case since. I bought a Dillon case lube and just used that for my stray bottle. Great video.
Just discovered your channel a few weeks back!! Been trying to catch up watching the videos that fit my needs. I am down in South Louisiana and a hobby shooter and re-loader. Just discovered YOUR case lube formula. (seen it on other reloading channels also). Finally found the ingredients in a local Pharmacy and made a small batch. I mixed it 10 to 12 to 1. It works great. Reduces de-priming and case sizing effort by at least 1/3 when tested against normal un-lubed cases. Added the lanolin first then the alcohol. I had to clear the pick-up tube a couple of times before it would spray in a fine mist. You need a high quality strong spraying bottle!!! I think it will extend the life of my dies a lot, But you will need to clean the dies more frequently to get rid of lube build-up. Thanks for all the great videos. I have learned a lot so far.
This is excellent info. Thank you! I will, however, forever wonder why you didn't use 5" of alcohol and .5" of Lanolin. After all, .5 (1/2") is an easier measurement than .4.
Piggybacking on your comment to say: lanolin case lube is garbage. The lanolin itself is relatively expensive even with Amazon Prime and can rarely be sourced locally. Plus if you let this lube dry on your brass, heaven help you. It turns into a sticky film that is almost impossible to wash off (lanolin is, after all, what makes sheep's wool waterproof) and turns your brass a dull grey from all the microparticles that stick to it. Instead, use mineral oil. You can get it at CVS for dirt cheap, it's non-toxic and can even be ingested. A 1:24 mixture is perfect (conveniently, that's 1 tablespoon of mineral oil into a 12oz bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol). It's a light oil so you won't get dinged case shoulders, stays liquid and doesn't dry into a sticky mess at room temperature, and washes right off with a 5min tumble in warm soapy water. After using mineral oil I can't believe how much time I wasted with lanolin.
@@paintballplayer700 I've seen mineral oil used, but some claim since it is petroleum based, it has potential to mess with primers. Another alternative is to use HEET and castor oil since castor oil is organic. Personally, I think if you toss all the sized brass in the tumbler afterward, I don't think it really matters which one you use. Good point on lanolin turning to a sticky film.
@@edwardlance2379 I would not recommend using the mineral oil and then loading/priming the brass without washing it thoroughly first. I continue to use mineral oil and am super satisfied with its performance.
I was putting off refilling mine but seeing how you can pick any amount I added 3" to mine then added .33" of lanolin. I measure the 1" that was in there so just filled with alcohol up to the 4" mark then added .33" more. Was so easy. You don't need a funnel but for the video it makes it easier to film that way but if you pour carefully just pour and it doesn't matter which goes first even if the bottle is dry. It will all mix. Pouring into alcohol is probably slightly easier vs letting the lanolin settle on dry plastic but it will all mix. Now it's time to write the bible =P
I've made this before but as I recall the lanolin seemed thicker and wouldn't stay suspended in the alcohol. I went to use it yesterday and the sprayer was completely clogged. Worked great when I first made it though. So I put my brass in a big zip lock bag and sprayed the lube in the bag and then sealed the bag and shook it up. That seemed to do a good job coating the brass.
Gavin makes good quality videos. Good job Gavin. The only thing I would add is to use "PEG 75" lanolin instead of liquid lanolin. It is formulated to be water soluble and will wash off brass easily where liquid lanolin will not.
I tried the liquid lanolin mix, and in spite of it working well, I also quickly grew tired of effort required for removing it from the brass. So several years ago I switched to using RCBS Case Lube-2 in the mix. So far it seems to work just fine and washes off brass with just a hot water rinse.
Yup. The "good" is you will probably never stick a case. The "bad" is that lanolin is sticky as hell. I still use it but afterward I give my cases an acetone wash. If only it weren't so damn sticky...
I’m going to try this out. I’ll put the lanolin mark on the bottom of the bottle and pour it first, then when I pour the alcohol, it cleans the funnel.
This is great, and I know from experience that this mixture works well, but by the time you buy the components to make 16 oz of the homemade stuff, you can buy 24 oz of Dillon or Hornady one-shot. That's assuming you need to buy a chemical resistant spray bottle for the first batch, subsequent batches would be less. Even so, I like the idea of making my own. 10:1 is the best ratio, other guys are doing 8:1 which is s big too thick. Thanks for another great UR video.
After watching this video and experiencing chattering and binding loading my 6.5 Creedmoor on my 550, I decided to give it a try. Followed the instructions and just gave it a spin. Man... Smooth as glass... Spot on recommendation! This will be my case lube of choice moving forward with all my rifle stuff! Thanks for the video...
If you experience a case where you have to exert more than 4 or 5 pounds of downforce (usually about half way down the case, STOP! Back out the die, coat the case lightly with Hornady Unique case lube (I don't even remove the case from the shell holder), then proceed. I never have to do this with my cases that I have fired, It's mostly when I buy once fired brass that were fired in a larger chamber.
If I get any of this in the shell and when I go to load it with powder Will that affect the load in a shot ? I'm new at this and I'm still learning By the way Great videos Thanks Rodney
This stuff works wayyy better than imperial die wax from what I found, and INCREDIBLY faster, just get a bag/bucket of tumbled, dry brass, and give it a healthy 4-5 sprays and mix gently, every brass cartridge will have a thin layer on it, and you won't get a single stuck shell with it. I've gotten a couple stuck shells from just finger applying imperial die wax, either too much or not enough, but either way this method seems to apply the perfect amount every time and is faster. Not to mention one bottle lasts you about 5k rounds of brass which is cheaper than die wax
So I'm new to reloading and like the idea of using this mix... but due to the recent Corona virus debacle, finding 99% is nigh impossible. Would denatured be an acceptable alternative? I've had a gallon of that stuff sitting around for a while and it's still fairly easy to find at Home Depot, etc. Great videos, I'm learning a lot. Cheers!
I don't know why not. Isopropyl is used when denatured is not available, and both have the same uses in general. Denatured alcohol may or may not evaporate off quicker. Slower would be better, giving the lanolin more time to disperse across the case surface. My best suggestion would be is mix a batch, and give it a test. Just be careful. Does the case feel slick, inspect cases closely after sizing. You don't want to ruin a die. Hope my thoughts helps you some. A chemist, or someone whos already tried using denatured alcohol will be the ones best suited to answer your question. I will go check for other home brew case lube videos. Hope the revenuers don't find out were making our own "Moon Lube"
...50 years ago when I got home from the better part of three years with the army in Germany i brought an RCBS RockChucker with me and the Ammo Crafter kit with its lube pad & tube o' lube...I still have that original tube, but by the 1990s I'd graduated to spray lubes...I've been using Dillon spray lubes - but this this what I've been looking for - a formula and demo to DYI...thanx
I really like how you mark the bottle! And thanks for giving a shout out to us the 6.5 Guys! Over time you will notice that a precipitant will settle to the bottom of the lube. Not sure what it is, but we simply decant the lube into another bottle and leave the precipitant behind. The first time I used the lube I got an.....let's just say there was a tingling feeling.
That is odd. I have a dillon lube bottle and do not see any particulant separation. I will watch for this with my homemade stuff. Thanks for the heads up. I do, though, what that material is. Guess I will have to wait and see.
Just starting my reloading adventure, and wanted to try this out. Hovever, i can't get the lanolin to dissolve. I am using 95% alcohol, and pure lanolin. Any dvice?
Love your videos, been using your method for the last 3 yrs and have recently switched the lanolin out for the RCBS-2 case lube in the same ratio. It does as great a job if not slicker and it’s water soluble for an easier cleanup.
Gavin, lanolin case lube is garbage. The lanolin itself is relatively expensive even with Amazon Prime and can rarely be sourced locally. Plus if you let this lube dry on your brass, heaven help you. It turns into a sticky film that is almost impossible to wash off (lanolin is, after all, what makes sheep's wool waterproof) and turns your brass a dull grey from all the microparticles that stick to it. Instead, use mineral oil. You can get it at CVS for dirt cheap, it's non-toxic and can even be ingested. A 1:24 mixture is perfect (conveniently, that's 1 tablespoon of mineral oil into a 12oz bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol). It's a light oil so you won't get dinged case shoulders, stays liquid and doesn't dry into a sticky mess at room temperature, and washes right off with a 5min tumble in warm soapy water. After using mineral oil I can't believe how much time I wasted with lanolin.
@@Maine307 Let me know what you think. I've been preaching about mineral oil for a while now but most people still continue to use this horrible lanolin garbage.
I realize this video is several years old, and has been dormant for a while... so, I'm late to the party with this question: The PEG-75 I've located is shown as amber-colored waxy flakes -- any tips on how to mix this with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or Iso Heet)? Disolve in H2O first, mix directly w/alcohol, or? I ordered 100 grams of PEG-75 lanolin which is approx. 3.5-ounces (wt). Mixing / Blending process tips would be very helpful. I'd like to achieve a case lube that is similar to the Hornady One Shot aerosol spray - which has become rather pricey. I run all my brass through an aqueous solution after sizing and depriming with the SS pins (rotary tumbler) so being able to remove the lube in a wet-wash process is a requirement for me. Thanks, @MJBulletMaster
I have the exact same bottle of lanolin I got from amazon I'm 15 and I recently bought my first progressive press reloading 9mm and so far love it, it's a Lee pro 1000 and was hoping you could make a video on it reloading 223 or any other cartridge thanks.
Thanks for the awesome videos!! Quick question about case lube. I use denatured alcohol and glycerin in wood working applications and have them on hand. Any thoughts on this recipe for a case lube?
I have been reloading for only a year and a half, but this is the only case lube I have used. Made up a bottle, the same ratio, over a year ago and will probably get another year out of that bottle. the stuff goes a long way. Plus the lanolin will make your hands nice and soft, the wife does not mind that.
Gavin this is off topic, but you need to check out a video by Shapes Ltd. titled Lee Loadmaster with load monitor computer. He designed/built it himself and shows it in use. This guy is onto something that could be big.
don't other reloaders say lube on the case shoulders cause denting when you come out of the resizing die? i have reloaded for about 30 years now and every once in a while i have noted a dented shoulder on a bottleneck case. i always hand lubricate my cases and try not to get it on the shoulders, but i imagine it still gets on there while handling,. trip through the decaping/sizing die, etc. what say you? otherwise your spray bottle approach looks pretty good to me, though i have never used one shot, etc, thanks for your old, but still good video on this!
Thanks for this video! Do you clean the cases again prior to priming, so as not to affect the powder charge or cross-contaminate other dies with the lube?
08/12/18 Went on a hunt for the ingredients: IPA (alcohol) Walgreens 91% @ 16oz bottle for $3.00 Liquid lanolin- Sprouts 4oz bottle @ $14.50 I use a vibrating bowl to clean my brass, here are the ingredients: Ground walnuts shells (reptile bedding) Petsmart 10lb bag @ $18.00 (untreated) Nu-Shine car polish (NO ammonia) Walmart @ $8.00 I haven’t reloaded for awhile (family and work), had throw out my old case lube and lube pad. My vibrator media has to be replace and they need to be cleaned away. When I went to shop for replacement cleaning supplies; sticker shock. So, with about $40.00 invested, instead of the normal $80.00, I thought that I would give it a try. Thanks for the info out there. At least RUclips hasn’t censored this so far.
usarmypat I made some of this lube over 10 years ago and shared it on a reloading forum, after looking at my notes, my first batch was using 91% ISA. It worked well. Your mixture looks interesting?
I have been using that lube for many years, I got the recipe off an old New Zealand hunter who reloaded all his calibers using it, I have never had a problem with it and I use the old guys 15:1 mix
OK it's good to make your own but my big issue is not putting the stuff ON it's getting it OFF. Rolling cases on a pad is no big chore but then you have to tumble them again or wipe them with rags THAT is a pain. Is there a case lube that you fire and forget?
Thanks bro. I have been using this for a short while, thanks to your video. I love it plus it sure beats the $9 Dillon price tag. Also, as you pointed out, this mixture is somewhat smoother than the commercial products I have been using. Thanks again
If you use a smaller container and spray the bottom, sides & top...thens add cases...shake, rattle, & roll them around..... take off the top and let them dry...works very well....... Have used it for tens of thousands of rounds!
Dudes… it’s great stuff but builds up in the die and dents shoulders. If it sits to long on cases the alcohol evaporates and lanolin is too stiff to lube
Nice video with excellent information. My materials list is a little different for cost effectiveness. I use Iso Heet. It's 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (and the remaining 1% has never caused any problems. Walmart sells 4 (12oz) bottles for just under $7 and the liquid lanolin is slightly over $8. Mix 3 bottles of Heet with the 4 oz bottle of lanolin and you have 40 oz of a 10% lanolin solution. The Heet is just cheaper than the bottle of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. And, you'll have an extra bottle of Heet to put in your gas tank. Seriously, you're not using the alcohol to sanitize your skin. Why pay the extra money?
Since the late 70s I've used a 50/50 mix of STP Oil Treatment and Marvel Mystery Oil, loaded into a non-inked stamp pad, and cases rolled across the pad. It goes on uniformly and in almost 50 years I've never had a stuck case. Works well for case forming, too. Wipes off resized cases with denatured alcohol on a dollar store washcloth.
The problem I keep running into is the lube is usually to much. I then end up bumping the shoulders back more than I want. I'm aiming for 2 thou bump and sometimes end up as much as 4 thou. I usually have to check each case after resizing to ensure I haven't bumped back to much. Very frustrating.
This is a great mixture, but if you add the oil first the alcohol will clean the funnel so you don’t get the oil drip for a day later. Also when I use sizing lube I put my cartridges in a 1 gallon zip lock bag. I spray the lube and then seal the bag, I roll the cases side to side, end over end until they mix really well. Then open the zip lock 5-10 minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and then your ready to roll without losing 1 drop of the lube.
I was wondering what do you do to help prevent rifle cases (i.e. .223, 300AAC) from getting the flared depriming pin from getting stuck in the case. I lube the outside of the case but seem to get quite a few cases stuck in the flared depriving pin.
I've had success using a saturated solution of lanolin wax or the liquid in ultra dry isopropyl alcohol and a spray bottle. Use of a 4 Angstrom molecular sieve will keep the isopropyl in an ultra dry state prior to use and insure a quicker evaporation of the alcohol and a more uniform film.
If you can get an even coat of lube by putting the cases in a zip lock bag, spraying them, sealing the bag, & tumbling the cases around. Plus the lanolin doesn’t get all over your bench that way.
Has anybody had a problem with stuck cases with this lube? Since going to this I've probably loaded about 2500 223 with this lube and gotten two stuck cases in the lee sizing die. I was able to get them out by removing the pin and tapping them out but then all cases no matter how lubed would stick even after cleaning the die.
I've been using isoheet w/ lanoline. Any comparisons between using isoheet instead of alcohol? I think it would be probably healthier to switch to alcohol. But finding the 99% takes some effort. Seems the local distributor pushes the 70% everywhere. I'll keep an eye out for the 99% to try it out. Thanks.
I am wondering if denatured alcohol would work okay for this application. I don't know how it would compare price wise but it would make it a lot easier to find because Walmart and pretty much any hardware store with a paint section should carry it.
Excellent video brotha! Thank you for sharing. when you said it's better that DCL I was sold! just bought a house and will be reloading again soon! I can't wait!! Take care!! Thumbs up from me!!!
Hey J2K...been using this for a long time...works very well.... and easy...the only hard part is finding 99% alcohol & the lanolin.......I use 91% and had to order lanolin on line......
Hi Neil, yeah, I just can't find it at any store around here.........the 91% works fine...found it at Dollar tree..a quart for a dollar....but had to order lanolin online 4oz was about $10.......so for about $3 it will lube around 10,000 cases......I love it.......
I made this lube up over a year ago but have not used it yet. Now with all the negative comments about getting the lanolin off the cases has me looking at another way to lube. I do not like 1 shot as I destroyed a lee full length sizing die when a 30-06 case broke off up in side the die.
so, i had to get the cream pure lanolin, i melted the cream down to a liquid, then mixed it with the alcohol. although it will clump, a few quick shakes mixes it back up and works. we just dont have access to the stuff in a bottle. i have been looking. still a wonderful trick that works.. FYI u can use this on other stuff around the house, that deals with animals, and u dont want to risk using a oil chemical. ..soo there is a few uses for this.. especially in the summah.
good news: case lube works like a charm. Bad news: case lube sticks to plastic reloading trays like a charm. all it does is build up and is hell to get off with a simply soap and water solution. may be a bit late to the game on this one, but in case anyone else is having trouble getting the lanolin residue off their plastic reloading trays, toss your trays in the sonic cleaner with whatever case cleaning solution you have, soap may work too, but I used case cleaner and it got the residue off no problem. give it about 15min. on the hottest setting, be sure to de-gas and you're set.
Great video. Question for you once you resize them do you tumble them again to remove the lube from it or just leave it on since it's a small amount of lube?
If my math is correct, 10 parts alcohol and 1 part lanolin give an 11 part mix. Some guys use an 8:1 ratio which gets you a 9 part mix. I'm sure the slight differences won't matter much. I've tried it a couple different ratios and can't really tell the difference.
I found that putting a couple squirts into a gallon freezer bag rubbing it all around then dumping in a big batch of casings.. shake well and pour out into a paper bag or box works best.
I used this mix alot. Over the years the tray I have used to spray the cases has become coated with this. Any suggestions on cleaning up the tray. Yes they are NICE trays and won't toss them.
I did this. The alcohol was about $2 for 16 oz and 4 oz of lanolin was $8 incl shipping. I looked at the bottle of Dillon 8 oz bottle and I had spent >$9. So 11 oz costs me about $3.25 now and I have it right here at home whenever I need it.
Same lube I have used for a few years. Something I learned was my spray bottle spray tip was not air tight and I had some of the alcohol evaporate. I removed the sprayer and put a good cap on it and that stopped.
Nutze ich schon länger. Liquid Lanolin ist in Deutschland leider fast nicht zu bekommen. Daher nehme ich festes Lanolin und verflüssige es mir mit erwärmen im Isopropanol in einem Warmwasserbad. Funktioniert auch super.
Good video man. Thanks. One question. How to you remove the excess lube when you're done reloading? I wouldn't want to run bullets through my guns with it on there.
In the 10 to 1 ratio I find that the alcohol flashes pretty quick and if not careful you can get a stuck case. For the application to the brass you can spray directly or you can put the brass in a baggie, spray 3 or 4 squirts into the bag and shake for equal coverage. Take only the a number of brass pieces that you can size in a couple of minutes.
I don't use it till the water and alcohol are totally gone. I set them out to dry. weeks later I have zero problem with them. If they are going to sit around awhile I just leave them in the bag to keep dust off of them.
This is a great case lube, will not go back to store bought lube. This also lasts a long time, I've used on over 1000 cases, plus on our sliding door and haven't even used half the 1st batch yet.
My only addition is a ziploc bag. I use this process with the spray lube but I have a one gallon ziploc bag dedicated to lubing. Just dump your cases in, a few squirts in the bag, work the air out, seal the bag and roll the cases around. It works beautifully to coat the cases evenly.
how many squirts into the bag?
You'll know through experience. All you really have to accomplish is coating the inside of the bag well enough to do the "shake and bake" method.@@nathanlamberson1256
Does it affect powder and primers if it gets into case?
If you poured it in yes. If you spray the bag then roll the cases around it has enough alcohol to dry and not make problems. I only use the bag if I'm doing a lot of cases, generally I load 40 or 50 rifle cases at a time and just spray them as they stand in a loading block and I make sure to get a bit inside the neck to help with sizing.@@joshnavarre9807
@joshnavarre9807 I can't speak for everyone, but I clean my cases after the prep-work.
I'be been using this combo for a while now and never had a stuck case since. I bought a Dillon case lube and just used that for my stray bottle. Great video.
Cat misbehaves in the reloading shed. Long story short; my cat is necked down to 308win
Quick tip. Replace the alcohol with iso-heet from Walmart or a parts store. It dries super fast.
Just discovered your channel a few weeks back!! Been trying to catch up watching the videos that fit my needs. I am down in South Louisiana and a hobby shooter and re-loader. Just discovered YOUR case lube formula. (seen it on other reloading channels also). Finally found the ingredients in a local Pharmacy
and made a small batch. I mixed it 10 to 12 to 1. It works great. Reduces de-priming and case sizing effort by at least 1/3 when tested against normal un-lubed cases. Added the lanolin first then the alcohol. I had to clear the pick-up tube a couple of times before it would spray in a fine mist. You need a high quality strong spraying bottle!!! I think it will extend the life of my dies a lot, But you will need to clean the dies more frequently to get rid of lube build-up.
Thanks for all the great videos. I have learned a lot so far.
This is excellent info. Thank you! I will, however, forever wonder why you didn't use 5" of alcohol and .5" of Lanolin. After all, .5 (1/2") is an easier measurement than .4.
Piggybacking on your comment to say: lanolin case lube is garbage. The lanolin itself is relatively expensive even with Amazon Prime and can rarely be sourced locally. Plus if you let this lube dry on your brass, heaven help you. It turns into a sticky film that is almost impossible to wash off (lanolin is, after all, what makes sheep's wool waterproof) and turns your brass a dull grey from all the microparticles that stick to it. Instead, use mineral oil. You can get it at CVS for dirt cheap, it's non-toxic and can even be ingested. A 1:24 mixture is perfect (conveniently, that's 1 tablespoon of mineral oil into a 12oz bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol). It's a light oil so you won't get dinged case shoulders, stays liquid and doesn't dry into a sticky mess at room temperature, and washes right off with a 5min tumble in warm soapy water. After using mineral oil I can't believe how much time I wasted with lanolin.
@@paintballplayer700 This is very good information ! I’m going to try this for sure ! Thank you !
@@paintballplayer700 I've seen mineral oil used, but some claim since it is petroleum based, it has potential to mess with primers. Another alternative is to use HEET and castor oil since castor oil is organic.
Personally, I think if you toss all the sized brass in the tumbler afterward, I don't think it really matters which one you use. Good point on lanolin turning to a sticky film.
@@edwardlance2379 I would not recommend using the mineral oil and then loading/priming the brass without washing it thoroughly first. I continue to use mineral oil and am super satisfied with its performance.
Ever thought of pouring in the lube then the alcohol to rinse the funnel? Great video.
Good call, .4" bottom line, then 4" above that :) (or .5" and 5")
It seems to mix better doing the alcohol last as well.
I was putting off refilling mine but seeing how you can pick any amount I added 3" to mine then added .33" of lanolin. I measure the 1" that was in there so just filled with alcohol up to the 4" mark then added .33" more. Was so easy. You don't need a funnel but for the video it makes it easier to film that way but if you pour carefully just pour and it doesn't matter which goes first even if the bottle is dry. It will all mix. Pouring into alcohol is probably slightly easier vs letting the lanolin settle on dry plastic but it will all mix. Now it's time to write the bible =P
I've made this before but as I recall the lanolin seemed thicker and wouldn't stay suspended in the alcohol. I went to use it yesterday and the sprayer was completely clogged. Worked great when I first made it though.
So I put my brass in a big zip lock bag and sprayed the lube in the bag and then sealed the bag and shook it up. That seemed to do a good job coating the brass.
That's all I have been using for years!
Gavin makes good quality videos. Good job Gavin. The only thing I would add is to use "PEG 75" lanolin instead of liquid lanolin. It is formulated to be water soluble and will wash off brass easily where liquid lanolin will not.
I tried the liquid lanolin mix, and in spite of it working well, I also quickly grew tired of effort required for removing it from the brass. So several years ago I switched to using RCBS Case Lube-2 in the mix. So far it seems to work just fine and washes off brass with just a hot water rinse.
Yup. The "good" is you will probably never stick a case. The "bad" is that lanolin is sticky as hell. I still use it but afterward I give my cases an acetone wash. If only it weren't so damn sticky...
I use 12 oz. ISO-HEET Gas-Line Anti-Freeze in place of (99% Isopropyl Alcohol). It's 98.5% and available locally at many stores
I’m going to try this out. I’ll put the lanolin mark on the bottom of the bottle and pour it first, then when I pour the alcohol, it cleans the funnel.
This is great, and I know from experience that this mixture works well, but by the time you buy the components to make 16 oz of the homemade stuff, you can buy 24 oz of Dillon or Hornady one-shot. That's assuming you need to buy a chemical resistant spray bottle for the first batch, subsequent batches would be less. Even so, I like the idea of making my own. 10:1 is the best ratio, other guys are doing 8:1 which is s big too thick. Thanks for another great UR video.
After watching this video and experiencing chattering and binding loading my 6.5 Creedmoor on my 550, I decided to give it a try. Followed the instructions and just gave it a spin. Man... Smooth as glass... Spot on recommendation! This will be my case lube of choice moving forward with all my rifle stuff! Thanks for the video...
If you experience a case where you have to exert more than 4 or 5 pounds of downforce (usually about half way down the case, STOP! Back out the die, coat the case lightly with Hornady Unique case lube (I don't even remove the case from the shell holder), then proceed. I never have to do this with my cases that I have fired, It's mostly when I buy once fired brass that were fired in a larger chamber.
Thanks Gavin great tip. I am getting into reloading myself and you8r videos are great help.
Thanks Again
If I get any of this in the shell and when I go to load it with powder Will that affect the load in a shot ? I'm new at this and I'm still learning By the way Great videos
Thanks Rodney
Gavin you said .4. Is that 0.4 of an inch on a caliper. I'm not good with ratios. Sorry if that is a terrible question.
This stuff works wayyy better than imperial die wax from what I found, and INCREDIBLY faster, just get a bag/bucket of tumbled, dry brass, and give it a healthy 4-5 sprays and mix gently, every brass cartridge will have a thin layer on it, and you won't get a single stuck shell with it. I've gotten a couple stuck shells from just finger applying imperial die wax, either too much or not enough, but either way this method seems to apply the perfect amount every time and is faster. Not to mention one bottle lasts you about 5k rounds of brass which is cheaper than die wax
So I'm new to reloading and like the idea of using this mix... but due to the recent Corona virus debacle, finding 99% is nigh impossible. Would denatured be an acceptable alternative? I've had a gallon of that stuff sitting around for a while and it's still fairly easy to find at Home Depot, etc. Great videos, I'm learning a lot. Cheers!
I don't know why not. Isopropyl is used when denatured is not available, and both have the same uses in general. Denatured alcohol may or may not evaporate off quicker. Slower would be better, giving the lanolin more time to disperse across the case surface. My best suggestion would be is mix a batch, and give it a test. Just be careful. Does the case feel slick, inspect cases closely after sizing. You don't want to ruin a die. Hope my thoughts helps you some. A chemist, or someone whos already tried using denatured alcohol will be the ones best suited to answer your question. I will go check for other home brew case lube videos. Hope the revenuers don't find out were making our own "Moon Lube"
Hello, You said a 4 inch line and I thought you said .4 inch line meaning almost a half inch? correct?
thank you
Best case lube I've ever used. Can't recommend this enough. Thanks.
...50 years ago when I got home from the better part of three years with the army in Germany i brought an RCBS RockChucker with me and the Ammo Crafter kit with its lube pad & tube o' lube...I still have that original tube, but by the 1990s I'd graduated to spray lubes...I've been using Dillon spray lubes - but this this what I've been looking for - a formula and demo to DYI...thanx
I really like how you mark the bottle! And thanks for giving a shout out to us the 6.5 Guys!
Over time you will notice that a precipitant will settle to the bottom of the lube. Not sure what it is, but we simply decant the lube into another bottle and leave the precipitant behind.
The first time I used the lube I got an.....let's just say there was a tingling feeling.
Thanks for the idea and guidance Ed, it's great stuff isn't it!!! Looking forward to our next video together 6.5 Guys + UR! :)
That is odd. I have a dillon lube bottle and do not see any particulant separation. I will watch for this with my homemade stuff. Thanks for the heads up. I do, though, what that material is. Guess I will have to wait and see.
Just starting my reloading adventure, and wanted to try this out. Hovever, i can't get the lanolin to dissolve. I am using 95% alcohol, and pure lanolin.
Any dvice?
The formula is great, IMO way to much lanolin could reduce by half.
Love your videos, been using your method for the last 3 yrs and have recently switched the lanolin out for the RCBS-2 case lube in the same ratio. It does as great a job if not slicker and it’s water soluble for an easier cleanup.
I’m going to try this so 10 to 1 with rcbs-2 instead of lanolin?
Yes, same ratio as in the video but with RCBS-2, just as good if not better with easier clean up
So take the RCBS and mix it with alcohol?@hank3152
@@humansvd3269yes, in the same ratio. After sizing just rinse the brass in warm water and the lube is gone
@@humansvd3269 yes, same ratio as the lanolin
Gavin, lanolin case lube is garbage. The lanolin itself is relatively expensive even with Amazon Prime and can rarely be sourced locally. Plus if you let this lube dry on your brass, heaven help you. It turns into a sticky film that is almost impossible to wash off (lanolin is, after all, what makes sheep's wool waterproof) and turns your brass a dull grey from all the microparticles that stick to it. Instead, use mineral oil. You can get it at CVS for dirt cheap, it's non-toxic and can even be ingested. A 1:24 mixture is perfect (conveniently, that's 1 tablespoon of mineral oil into a 12oz bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol). It's a light oil so you won't get dinged case shoulders, stays liquid and doesn't dry into a sticky mess at room temperature, and washes right off with a 5min tumble in warm soapy water. After using mineral oil I can't believe how much time I wasted with lanolin.
i am gonna try this. i have found exactly what u described after practice. i figured it was "just me".
@@Maine307 Let me know what you think. I've been preaching about mineral oil for a while now but most people still continue to use this horrible lanolin garbage.
I was about to go to Sportsmans Warehouse to buy some case lube... glad i saw this! Thanks!
I use castor oil. Easier to find in the local pharmacy and a fraction of the cost.
Lanolin is oil from wool. Castor is made from castor beans
I spray the lube on my case lube pad and roll my cases on the pad. Works great. Keeps me from over lubing
I realize this video is several years old, and has been dormant for a while... so, I'm late to the party with this question:
The PEG-75 I've located is shown as amber-colored waxy flakes -- any tips on how to mix this with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or Iso Heet)? Disolve in H2O first, mix directly w/alcohol, or?
I ordered 100 grams of PEG-75 lanolin which is approx. 3.5-ounces (wt).
Mixing / Blending process tips would be very helpful.
I'd like to achieve a case lube that is similar to the Hornady One Shot aerosol spray - which has become rather pricey.
I run all my brass through an aqueous solution after sizing and depriming with the SS pins (rotary tumbler) so being able to remove the lube in a wet-wash process is a requirement for me.
Thanks,
@MJBulletMaster
I have the exact same bottle of lanolin I got from amazon I'm 15 and I recently bought my first progressive press reloading 9mm and so far love it, it's a Lee pro 1000 and was hoping you could make a video on it reloading 223 or any other cartridge thanks.
Thanks for the awesome videos!! Quick question about case lube.
I use denatured alcohol and glycerin in wood working applications and have them on hand. Any thoughts on this recipe for a case lube?
I have been reloading for only a year and a half, but this is the only case lube I have used. Made up a bottle, the same ratio, over a year ago and will probably get another year out of that bottle. the stuff goes a long way. Plus the lanolin will make your hands nice and soft, the wife does not mind that.
Gavin this is off topic, but you need to check out a video by Shapes Ltd. titled Lee Loadmaster with load monitor computer. He designed/built it himself and shows it in use. This guy is onto something that could be big.
Nice video with great information - I cannot wait to try it out - I have been using everybody’s commercial product and not been very pleased
don't other reloaders say lube on the case shoulders cause denting when you come out of the resizing die? i have reloaded for about 30 years now and every once in a while i have noted a dented shoulder on a bottleneck case. i always hand lubricate my cases and try not to get it on the shoulders, but i imagine it still gets on there while handling,. trip through the decaping/sizing die, etc. what say you? otherwise your spray bottle approach looks pretty good to me, though i have never used one shot, etc, thanks for your old, but still good video on this!
Great brass lube mixture recipe!!! Thank you Gavin your awesome
Thanks for this video! Do you clean the cases again prior to priming, so as not to affect the powder charge or cross-contaminate other dies with the lube?
08/12/18 Went on a hunt for the ingredients: IPA (alcohol) Walgreens 91% @ 16oz bottle for $3.00
Liquid lanolin- Sprouts 4oz bottle @ $14.50
I use a vibrating bowl to clean my brass, here are the ingredients:
Ground walnuts shells (reptile bedding) Petsmart 10lb bag @ $18.00 (untreated)
Nu-Shine car polish (NO ammonia) Walmart @ $8.00
I haven’t reloaded for awhile (family and work), had throw out my old case lube and lube pad. My vibrator media has to be replace and they need to be cleaned away. When I went to shop for replacement cleaning supplies; sticker shock. So, with about $40.00 invested, instead of the normal $80.00, I thought that I would give it a try. Thanks for the info out there. At least RUclips hasn’t censored this so far.
usarmypat I made some of this lube over 10 years ago and shared it on a reloading forum, after looking at my notes, my first batch was using 91% ISA. It worked well. Your mixture looks interesting?
Is this affect to a powder or not?
I have been using that lube for many years, I got the recipe off an old New Zealand hunter who reloaded all his calibers using it, I have never had a problem with it and I use the old guys 15:1 mix
been making my own with lee lube in a tube amd alcohol, will have to try the lanolin.
OK it's good to make your own but my big issue is not putting the stuff ON it's getting it OFF. Rolling cases on a pad is no big chore but then you have to tumble them again or wipe them with rags THAT is a pain. Is there a case lube that you fire and forget?
You can bulk tumble in a vibratory tumbler with corncob media- very fast. This stuff doesn't leave as heavy a residue as roll-on or wipe on (wax).
Thanks bro. I have been using this for a short while, thanks to your video. I love it plus it sure beats the $9 Dillon price tag. Also, as you pointed out, this mixture is somewhat smoother than the commercial products I have been using. Thanks again
Good deal!!!!! I love this stuff too...
If you use a smaller container and spray the bottom, sides & top...thens add cases...shake, rattle, & roll them around..... take off the top and let them dry...works very well....... Have used it for tens of thousands of rounds!
Cmax Arms or plastic bag - even better
Put your lanolin mark at the bottom of the bottle, then when you add the alcohol in slowly it should wash the funnel down ?
Dudes… it’s great stuff but builds up in the die and dents shoulders. If it sits to long on cases the alcohol evaporates and lanolin is too stiff to lube
The new chemical guys bottles have dilution ratios printed on the side of the bottle.
Same ratio, Lanolin and denatured alcohol, this alcohol evaporates faster. Get it at any hardware store in the paint section.
Thanks. I am a woodworker so it just so happens I have denatured alcohol on hand, and a gallon of mineral oil (used on cutting boards)! :)
Nice video with excellent information. My materials list is a little different for cost effectiveness. I use Iso Heet. It's 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (and the remaining 1% has never caused any problems. Walmart sells 4 (12oz) bottles for just under $7 and the liquid lanolin is slightly over $8. Mix 3 bottles of Heet with the 4 oz bottle of lanolin and you have 40 oz of a 10% lanolin solution. The Heet is just cheaper than the bottle of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. And, you'll have an extra bottle of Heet to put in your gas tank. Seriously, you're not using the alcohol to sanitize your skin. Why pay the extra money?
Since the late 70s I've used a 50/50 mix of STP Oil Treatment and Marvel Mystery Oil, loaded into a non-inked stamp pad, and cases rolled across the pad. It goes on uniformly and in almost 50 years I've never had a stuck case. Works well for case forming, too. Wipes off resized cases with denatured alcohol on a dollar store washcloth.
Tried this and it worked really well for .303 British.
Thank you for the great info. Plan to try this since it seems like it could be a great reloading cost reducer.
The problem I keep running into is the lube is usually to much. I then end up bumping the shoulders back more than I want. I'm aiming for 2 thou bump and sometimes end up as much as 4 thou. I usually have to check each case after resizing to ensure I haven't bumped back to much. Very frustrating.
12:1 is the best ratio. Never a stuck case with this recipe. Thanks Gavin, although, I see you use FA case lube now. Why the change? Sponsorship?
This is a great mixture, but if you add the oil first the alcohol will clean the funnel so you don’t get the oil drip for a day later. Also when I use sizing lube I put my cartridges in a 1 gallon zip lock bag. I spray the lube and then seal the bag, I roll the cases side to side, end over end until they mix really well. Then open the zip lock 5-10 minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and then your ready to roll without losing 1 drop of the lube.
I was wondering what do you do to help prevent rifle cases (i.e. .223, 300AAC) from getting the flared depriming pin from getting stuck in the case. I lube the outside of the case but seem to get quite a few cases stuck in the flared depriving pin.
I've had success using a saturated solution of lanolin wax or the liquid in ultra dry isopropyl alcohol and a spray bottle. Use of a 4 Angstrom molecular sieve will keep the isopropyl in an ultra dry state prior to use and insure a quicker evaporation of the alcohol and a more uniform film.
If you can get an even coat of lube by putting the cases in a zip lock bag, spraying them, sealing the bag, & tumbling the cases around.
Plus the lanolin doesn’t get all over your bench that way.
Has anybody had a problem with stuck cases with this lube? Since going to this I've probably loaded about 2500 223 with this lube and gotten two stuck cases in the lee sizing die. I was able to get them out by removing the pin and tapping them out but then all cases no matter how lubed would stick even after cleaning the die.
For those who wet tumble, the lanolin does NOT come off and makes a huge mess of your drum FYI. Good lube, terrible clean up IMHO.
I've been using isoheet w/ lanoline. Any comparisons between using isoheet instead of alcohol? I think it would be probably healthier to switch to alcohol. But finding the 99% takes some effort. Seems the local distributor pushes the 70% everywhere. I'll keep an eye out for the 99% to try it out. Thanks.
No effort at all. Amazon is my superstore. Don't wait for local yokels to stock 99%.
I am wondering if denatured alcohol would work okay for this application. I don't know how it would compare price wise but it would make it a lot easier to find because Walmart and pretty much any hardware store with a paint section should carry it.
Store bought 01 % Alcohol works also if you can not find the 99%
Excellent video brotha! Thank you for sharing. when you said it's better that DCL I was sold! just bought a house and will be reloading again soon! I can't wait!! Take care!! Thumbs up from me!!!
Awesome, make up a batch, and be happy! :) Thanks.
Hey J2K...been using this for a long time...works very well.... and easy...the only hard part is finding 99% alcohol & the lanolin.......I use 91% and had to order lanolin on line......
Cmax Arms you can get both the lanolin and the 99% alcohol from Amazon.
Hi Neil, yeah, I just can't find it at any store around here.........the 91% works fine...found it at Dollar tree..a quart for a dollar....but had to order lanolin online 4oz was about $10.......so for about $3 it will lube around 10,000 cases......I love it.......
I made this lube up over a year ago but have not used it yet. Now with all the negative comments about getting the lanolin off the cases has me looking at another way to lube. I do not like 1 shot as I destroyed a lee full length sizing die when a 30-06 case broke off up in side the die.
so, i had to get the cream pure lanolin, i melted the cream down to a liquid, then mixed it with the alcohol. although it will clump, a few quick shakes mixes it back up and works. we just dont have access to the stuff in a bottle. i have been looking. still a wonderful trick that works.. FYI u can use this on other stuff around the house, that deals with animals, and u dont want to risk using a oil chemical. ..soo there is a few uses for this.. especially in the summah.
I deprime and size as step 1 in the reloading process. This stuff works great and clean-up is simple with "Dawn". Thank you!
I use a small bottle that i got at walmart, that lil shit has lasted me a long as time lol
I’ve been using this recipe for a while and started having issues with brass coming out of the wet tumbler gun grey vs shiny brass, any correlation?
I already have a jar on anhydrous lanolin in grease form. What is best way to turn it liquid for mixing with alcohol?
good news: case lube works like a charm. Bad news: case lube sticks to plastic reloading trays like a charm. all it does is build up and is hell to get off with a simply soap and water solution. may be a bit late to the game on this one, but in case anyone else is having trouble getting the lanolin residue off their plastic reloading trays, toss your trays in the sonic cleaner with whatever case cleaning solution you have, soap may work too, but I used case cleaner and it got the residue off no problem. give it about 15min. on the hottest setting, be sure to de-gas and you're set.
ISO HEET in red bottle (not the yellow bottle ) can be bought at Walmart auto section, red bottle is almost pure alcohol
Great video. Question for you once you resize them do you tumble them again to remove the lube from it or just leave it on since it's a small amount of lube?
Are the cases cleaned after sizing,my concern is the effect on the powder charge burning properly.
This is good. Today, it is hard to get 70% alcohol, bet I wont see 99% alcohol for awhile.
Excellent, thanks UR. Any good DIY recipies for ultrasonic solutions?
I'm new to reloading, I thought you shouldn't get case lube on riffle cartridge shoulders?
And thanks to the gun community really great people some of the best people I’ve ever met 🤙
Put the lanolin first then the alcohol will rinse out the funnel, put the brass cases in a plastic bag and shake, no fuss no waste.
I tried this on some 308 cases. Then I learned how to remove stuck cases. Back to the tried and true case lubes.
Good video, but has got me wondering if I could a bit leaner and do rinse for wet tumbled brass for storage?
If my math is correct, 10 parts alcohol and 1 part lanolin give an 11 part mix. Some guys use an 8:1 ratio which gets you a 9 part mix. I'm sure the slight differences won't matter much. I've tried it a couple different ratios and can't really tell the difference.
Excellent idea, thanks!
I found that putting a couple squirts into a gallon freezer bag rubbing it all around then dumping in a big batch of casings.. shake well and pour out into a paper bag or box works best.
Once the two are mixed will it seperate if left standing unused for a while???
I used this mix alot. Over the years the tray I have used to spray the cases has become coated with this. Any suggestions on cleaning up the tray. Yes they are NICE trays and won't toss them.
I did this. The alcohol was about $2 for 16 oz and 4 oz of lanolin was $8 incl shipping. I looked at the bottle of Dillon 8 oz bottle and I had spent >$9. So 11 oz costs me about $3.25 now and I have it right here at home whenever I need it.
How much case lube does this make? Is it really cheaper or worth it than just buying Dillon case lube?
Same lube I have used for a few years. Something I learned was my spray bottle spray tip was not air tight and I had some of the alcohol evaporate. I removed the sprayer and put a good cap on it and that stopped.
Merci beaucoup pour cette recette ! 👍👌
Nutze ich schon länger. Liquid Lanolin ist in Deutschland leider fast nicht zu bekommen. Daher nehme ich festes Lanolin und verflüssige es mir mit erwärmen im Isopropanol in einem Warmwasserbad.
Funktioniert auch super.
Great solution! (pun intended.)
my formula is the same but i use coleman lantern fuel or white gas.
DIY spray lube is ok, best part is its easy to make and super cheap. but i still prefer wax even though it's more work to use.
I’ll never be as organized as you
Good video man. Thanks. One question. How to you remove the excess lube when you're done reloading? I wouldn't want to run bullets through my guns with it on there.
In the 10 to 1 ratio I find that the alcohol flashes pretty quick and if not careful you can get a stuck case. For the application to the brass you can spray directly or you can put the brass in a baggie, spray 3 or 4 squirts into the bag and shake for equal coverage. Take only the a number of brass pieces that you can size in a couple of minutes.
I don't use it till the water and alcohol are totally gone. I set them out to dry. weeks later I have zero problem with them. If they are going to sit around awhile I just leave them in the bag to keep dust off of them.
Is the Lanolin left on the cases after the IPA flashes, is it more like oily, or waxy?