Another good video, Gavin. I am using Hornady’s OneShot as I typically default to what a manufacturer recommends to use, but I am certain your method is effective also. It is alarming at just how fast/easy it is for Hornady’s dies and powder measures to rust. So one has to be diligent on rust protection.
I got my start in reloading by watching your videos. I'm very grateful for all your work. And one other thing to mention: Out of all the reloading channels, you have the best theme music.
I use a glass canning jar. Glass can break, so I am careful not to shake it with the dies inside. I tried peanut butter jars, but I noticed the cases smelled like Mr. Peanut when run thru the dies cleaned in the peanut butter jar. I also found that wearing comfortable clothes makes reloading much more pleasant. Tight pants affect seating depth, while an uncomfortable hat of course can change headspace.
92k views a whopping 99 comments?, nothing even remotely bad(very very unusual) all praise gavin..too..be? Whatever that means, if I had to guess I'd say there was censorship goin on here, I mean he is "the ultimate reloader" lololol
Great point!!! I Found this out the hard way myself on not 1 but 2 GMM micrometer seater does and couldn't figure out why. I was mad because I never used to remove the factory gunk and had no issues with rust, then I try to prevent ruining my $100 + dies and it's rust city. Live and learn I guess
Great advice, as always. Small ultrasonic cleaners are relatively inexpensive these days. I use a 1.5 gallon capacity unit for small parts like these. What I like to do is use a variant of Gavin's method that includes the ultrasonic cleaner. Fill the basin with plain water, minus the volume of the jar you're using. Add your cleaning solution and parts to the jar, just as Gavin does. Drop the jar into the basin and turn on the unit. The ultrasonic waves will pass right through the jar and clean the parts beautifully. Remove the jar and the parts from it. Blow them off and allow to dry, as in the video. You can discard the cleaning fluid or reuse it. The best part is that you use a minimal amount of solvent, it's contained in the jar (less hazardous) and there is no filth to clean out of your ultrasonic cleaner afterward. Drain the water and it's good to go for next time.
Never use WD40 as a lubricant or for a protective film on firearms or there component parts. It evaporates and can leave a residue. WD40 is for water displacement. Use a very light film of gun oil
W D 40 is not a lubricant or a protectant. W D 40 is a moisture dispersant. You spray it on wet electrical components to dry them out if they happened to have gotten wet. NOWHERE on the can does it say anything about being a lubricant. I cringe every time I hear somebody say that they are putting WD 40 on their guns. It all evaporates shortly after you spray it on. I guess if you oil them with a GOOD gun oil after using it it probably won’t hurt anything. Get all the moisture out of you gun !!! SHOOT SAFE!!!!!!!!!!
Always wear a chemical resistant glove when blowing off the parts with compressed air, you don't want to be blowing that stuff into your skin. Nasty stuff Gavintoobe
I don't have mineral spirits or paint thinner I do have acetone but I normally use brake parts cleaner and just kind of blasted and that's done the trick to me so far but I don't have any today I was wondering would acetone also strip oil off the metal surface
When using an air compressor make sure you have an water/air separator on it! Why? Condensation can get in your air tank when the air gets compressed. Then when you use that air to "dry" off parts or clean debris off of items, the water in the air line can then get onto whatever you are trying to dry off or clean then Rust or corrosion can form on any untreated surfaces. How do I know that? I worked at a company that used an Air compressor that had an water/air separator on it, because the equipment the air was used to operate was very sensitive to water/moisture in the airlines. Because of a lot of sawdust around and in the equipment any moisture in the airlines would cause the equipment to get "gummed" up and stop working. Here is a tip: if your hands get dried out when using Mineral Spirits or Denatured Alcohol you can always wear gloves. Great video!
@@Ultimatereloader Test is for yourself. Clean a die you don't use, then spray it with WD. Let it set 6 mouths, in a non climate controlled environment, I think you will be shocked.
I usually just wipe the dies with RemOil as a better version of WD-40 solvent and preservative. RemOil leaves a very thin Teflon oil finish that doesn't turn nasty gummy yellow like WD-40. Be sure to wipe out the inside of dies to remove the polishing abrasive grit. For really nasty parts, I toss them in a jar of solvent on my rotary tumbler for a couple of minutes. I also use different jars for rotary tumble bluing. polishing, stone wash finishing with ceramic media, etc. I never knew how handy a rotary tumbler is until I bought a 2 gallon rotary tumbler several years ago. I can tumble 100 rounds of 50 BMG brass with stainless pins or I can tumble quart jars for various small jobs.
I live in a very humid area and I have countless anti-corrosive products. I've had the best success with liquid wrench corrosive inhibitor. You can find it at Ollie's Discount Store. It is inexpensive and it works great. Great cleaning tip and thanks for the video
After all my years of reloading and cleaning my dies, I thought I was doing a good job. I took a set of my 9mm Hornady dies, which I had cleaned and for the heck of it I tried your method, After soaking for about 20 minutes I could not believe the junk was at the bottom of the jar,and these were dies I had just cleaned.
A few weeks ago I left a comment relative to another posted question and your reply to the question.. The questions was as to whether you had cleaned Redding Pro Series Competition dies with this method, and if so, did it affect the white markings on the micrometer seating die. You answered that you had, and it did not affect the white markings. I watch your videos and am a fan of your site. However, I tried your method on my recently received set of Redding dies and it DID IN FACT AFFECT THE WHITE MARKINGS. Most were faded and some were completely gone. I thought others should know about this. I am curious now as to why the original question posted by another subscriber is now gone as well as my posting?
Thanks, GavinToob I really enjoy your videos and I love your previous set up for the bench . have you done a video of your bench design and construction.
Since many (most) dies I use have rubber o-rings in some way, is there a risk of the mineral spirits degrading those? Great idea and fantastic channel. Thanks.
If your in a high humidity area especially if your reloading area is not climate controlled make sure you oil the inside too and wipe any excess off the inside surface that sizes the brass before using or it will rust up which isn't good.
I store my Lee press turrets with the dies setup in 1 lb plastic coffee cans witha bit of foam rubber to keep them secure. I put freshly charged dessicant packet in each. No rust issues.
Doesn’t WD40 evaporate? I personally use a little CorrosionX HD on the outside of the dies as it is intended for long term storage. The thing you definitely wouldn’t want to use is an oil: while they are great to protect steel, if any of it gets into your case and contaminates your powder, you could have a squib or hang fire. Edit: reading Redding’s instructions, they advise to remove the factory antioxidant oil with a bore cleaner and then apply with a cotton swab a thin coat of sizing lube (like imperial wax) on the inside of the sizing die to create a layer to protect the metal from the elements.
This is a fantastic way to get that preservative lubricant off of dies and other reloading accessories. Paint thinner is much safer to plastic parts than alternatives such as brake cleaner aerosols. Thanks for sharing it. And if you know if you want to take it one little step further, You can take your jar of mineral spirits with the parts inside and you can place it inside your ultrasonic bath that is filled correctly with water. The ultrasound energy will travel through the walls of the jar and will give you an added bit of agitation for your parts. Just practice safe judgment in doing so. I'm not suggesting that you put solvents directly into the pan of your ultrasonic system and that would be potentially very dangerous. Safety is number one!
Hornady one shot is what Hornady recommends, it works great but it's pricy. I also found that a rubbing alcohol in spray bottle and oversize baby swabs work really well too and without nasty acetone smell. In fact it's so convenient I wanted to make my own video on how easy it is to clean with it.
gavintoobe 90% even better, i just use cheap 70%. Swabs are for inside cleaning where you get frequent build up of brass shavings because I flare case mouth on 38 special.
No lie, had a jar of PB and i just tried this......in less than 1 min the mineral spirits ate thru the bottom of the jar and started leaking. When I saw this video, my first thought was, "How is that jar not melting?".....sure enough, you have one mighty PB jar. Most plastics are made of stuff paint thinner will break down. I'd suggest the same method, but a Solvent Jar with a 2 HDPE rating and/or the classic glass Jelly Jar. Great video, love your channel. Keep up the good work!
Hi Gavin, would you use the same cleaning procedure you showed for new dies for cleaning well- used dies? Thanks for your contributions to the shooting community.
For well-used dies, I'd use an ultrasonic cleaner or scrub the insides with a brush (like a chamber brush for a rifle)- the gunk gets worked into the dies pretty good.
Nice an simple process. Good tip indeed. Your method also saves in many cans of whatever a person uses at $10 a can over the years. With multiple die sets, etc, that saves at a much faster rate. I use nitrile gloves. When I use the air compressor, I backstop the overspray, wear eye pro and hepa mask.
Another good video, Gavin. I am using Hornady’s OneShot as I typically default to what a manufacturer recommends to use, but I am certain your method is effective also. It is alarming at just how fast/easy it is for Hornady’s dies and powder measures to rust. So one has to be diligent on rust protection.
just use some brake cleaner..
Agreed
Yup
What do you recommend using as a rust preventative after you have cleaned the factory preservative off the dies?
I got my start in reloading by watching your videos. I'm very grateful for all your work. And one other thing to mention:
Out of all the reloading channels, you have the best theme music.
Wish I watched this 250 rounds ago!...
Amen I have reloaded aswell with doing this I hope this was okay :\
It’s gonna be fine he is definitely over exaggerating on “absolutely needing” to clean your dies when you first get them.
Janus Westraat
Wish i watched this 12,500 rounds ago !
@@fjb4932 oh no!
I use a glass canning jar. Glass can break, so I am careful not to shake it with the dies inside. I tried peanut butter jars, but I noticed the cases smelled like Mr. Peanut when run thru the dies cleaned in the peanut butter jar. I also found that wearing comfortable clothes makes reloading much more pleasant. Tight pants affect seating depth, while an uncomfortable hat of course can change headspace.
I use a bacon bits jar because I like my dies to smell like bacon. It’s kind of like having breakfast while reloading.
@@skyt54Plus if taliban ever shows up and extra zing.
92k views a whopping 99 comments?, nothing even remotely bad(very very unusual) all praise gavin..too..be? Whatever that means, if I had to guess I'd say there was censorship goin on here, I mean he is "the ultimate reloader" lololol
Someone who uses WD-40 on their dies also uses nails in carpentry.
Someone who uses Ballistol on on their dies uses screws in carpentry.
Nice video, just a quick tip: do not use acetone, it is slightly corrosive to carbon steel and it will actually cause rust spots.
Thanks, and good tip!
Great point!!! I Found this out the hard way myself on not 1 but 2 GMM micrometer seater does and couldn't figure out why. I was mad because I never used to remove the factory gunk and had no issues with rust, then I try to prevent ruining my $100 + dies and it's rust city. Live and learn I guess
Great advice, as always. Small ultrasonic cleaners are relatively inexpensive these days. I use a 1.5 gallon capacity unit for small parts like these. What I like to do is use a variant of Gavin's method that includes the ultrasonic cleaner. Fill the basin with plain water, minus the volume of the jar you're using. Add your cleaning solution and parts to the jar, just as Gavin does. Drop the jar into the basin and turn on the unit. The ultrasonic waves will pass right through the jar and clean the parts beautifully. Remove the jar and the parts from it. Blow them off and allow to dry, as in the video. You can discard the cleaning fluid or reuse it. The best part is that you use a minimal amount of solvent, it's contained in the jar (less hazardous) and there is no filth to clean out of your ultrasonic cleaner afterward. Drain the water and it's good to go for next time.
Never use WD40 as a lubricant or for a protective film on firearms or there component parts. It evaporates and can leave a residue. WD40 is for water displacement. Use a very light film of gun oil
Geoff Pickford or car oil. like Mobil 1 or any kind of
Great tip for guys who dont have an ultrasonic cleaner
Seems to me rust build up on the inside would be a bigger problem than a little bit of oil. But that's just me.
W D 40 is not a lubricant or a protectant. W D 40 is a moisture dispersant. You spray it on wet electrical components to dry them out if they happened to have gotten wet. NOWHERE on the can does it say anything about being a lubricant. I cringe every time I hear somebody say that they are putting WD 40 on their guns. It all evaporates shortly after you spray it on. I guess if you oil them with a GOOD gun oil after using it it probably won’t hurt anything. Get all the moisture out of you gun !!! SHOOT SAFE!!!!!!!!!!
Great advice, thank you!
Hornady one-shot is quicker. And its non-flammable so no worries of possible powder contamination
Always wear a chemical resistant glove when blowing off the parts with compressed air, you don't want to be blowing that stuff into your skin. Nasty stuff Gavintoobe
I don't have mineral spirits or paint thinner I do have acetone but I normally use brake parts cleaner and just kind of blasted and that's done the trick to me so far but I don't have any today I was wondering would acetone also strip oil off the metal surface
Never use WD40 ! It gums up tremendously! Ask me how I know! You will thank me. Your welcome.🇬🇧🏴
When using an air compressor make sure you have an water/air separator on it! Why? Condensation can get in your air tank when the air gets compressed. Then when you use that air to "dry" off parts or clean debris off of items, the water in the air line can then get onto whatever you are trying to dry off or clean then Rust or corrosion can form on any untreated surfaces. How do I know that? I worked at a company that used an Air compressor that had an water/air separator on it, because the equipment the air was used to operate was very sensitive to water/moisture in the airlines. Because of a lot of sawdust around and in the equipment any moisture in the airlines would cause the equipment to get "gummed" up and stop working.
Here is a tip: if your hands get dried out when using Mineral Spirits or Denatured Alcohol you can always wear gloves.
Great video!
Good point, dry air is super-important!
Seams like brake cleaner would make quick work of cleaning dies, is this something anyone has tried?
Any try the common cleaner used in all household cleaners called ( white vinegar ) just curious? 50/50 solution if anyone is curious
....what's the best way (or is there a way) to remove rust from dies??? I've got some dies that are fairly well rusted...
WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor... DO NOT used it.
WD-40 *IS* a rust inhibitor- not the best rust inhibitor, but it *DOES* serve that purpose.
@@Ultimatereloader Test is for yourself. Clean a die you don't use, then spray it with WD. Let it set 6 mouths, in a non climate controlled environment, I think you will be shocked.
Good solid information & would be good to do this after every couple thousand rounds reloaded, thanks
I usually just wipe the dies with RemOil as a better version of WD-40 solvent and preservative. RemOil leaves a very thin Teflon oil finish that doesn't turn nasty gummy yellow like WD-40. Be sure to wipe out the inside of dies to remove the polishing abrasive grit. For really nasty parts, I toss them in a jar of solvent on my rotary tumbler for a couple of minutes. I also use different jars for rotary tumble bluing. polishing, stone wash finishing with ceramic media, etc. I never knew how handy a rotary tumbler is until I bought a 2 gallon rotary tumbler several years ago. I can tumble 100 rounds of 50 BMG brass with stainless pins or I can tumble quart jars for various small jobs.
Can you do a video on how to degrease and setup a powder dropper?
solvent resistant gloves can save your hands and fingers from the oil-leeching action of solvents as well as adequate ventilation.
wide mouth canning jars ... found cheap at thrift store.
I live in a very humid area and I have countless anti-corrosive products. I've had the best success with liquid wrench corrosive inhibitor. You can find it at Ollie's Discount Store. It is inexpensive and it works great. Great cleaning tip and thanks for the video
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to try that...
Great Tip! Thank You, Sir.
After all my years of reloading and cleaning my dies, I thought I was doing a good job. I took a set of my
9mm Hornady dies, which I had cleaned and for the heck of it I tried your method, After soaking for about 20 minutes
I could not believe the junk was at the bottom of the jar,and these were dies I had just cleaned.
Were these dies that you speak of. Were they one's you had already using to reload with
What do you do with grommets and seals, how do you relobe them.
So, what do you guys do to prevent the tools/dies etc. from rusting at home? All cool and stuff that they use a material which is prone to rust...
Never cleaned my dies before. Guess I should.
A few weeks ago I left a comment relative to another posted question and your reply to the question.. The questions was as to whether you had cleaned Redding Pro Series Competition dies with this method, and if so, did it affect the white markings on the micrometer seating die. You answered that you had, and it did not affect the white markings. I watch your videos and am a fan of your site. However, I tried your method on my recently received set of Redding dies and it DID IN FACT AFFECT THE WHITE MARKINGS. Most were faded and some were completely gone. I thought others should know about this. I am curious now as to why the original question posted by another subscriber is now gone as well as my posting?
I use non chlorinated brake cleaner to clean my dies.
Thanks, GavinToob I really enjoy your videos and I love your previous set up for the bench . have you done a video of your bench design and construction.
Sorry I have not finished the video o-rings.
Since many (most) dies I use have rubber o-rings in some way, is there a risk of the mineral spirits degrading those? Great idea
and fantastic channel. Thanks.
I had the same question. Is anyone able to chime in on this? :)
I'm surprised at how cloudy the jar of spirits got from that little wash. 👍
Can i dip my new dies set in alcohol ?
Quick question, I'm new to reloading and would like to know if this initial cleaning process applies to seating dies as well?
Honestly any die boss
Not good for any rubber o rings....
Can you just brake cleaner?
How do you prevent rust on the inside of a die?
Hornady reloading hardware rusts when you look at it funny. Takes no time at all. I wish they’d use a steel with just a little corrosion resistance.
Use gun oil, not WD40. That's a penetrant and a cleaner not a lubricant. It will cause your parts to rust faster.
If your in a high humidity area especially if your reloading area is not climate controlled make sure you oil the inside too and wipe any excess off the inside surface that sizes the brass before using or it will rust up which isn't good.
Will some clp be ok?
Gavin, in your opinion, who makes the best Die “Lock rings” for a RCBS Rock Chucker with the Hornady Lock-N-Load system? Thanks
Your thoughts on substituting paint thinner with:
Denatured alcohol,
Acetone,
MEK, or
Lacquer thinner?
Best reloading channel
Thanks Mike!!!
Thanks didn't know to do that.
Should I do my new Lee single stage press? Thanks for the video
Brother. 🇺🇸 2A 🇺🇸
I store my Lee press turrets with the dies setup in 1 lb plastic coffee cans witha bit of foam rubber to keep them secure. I put freshly charged dessicant packet in each. No rust issues.
Doesn’t WD40 evaporate?
I personally use a little CorrosionX HD on the outside of the dies as it is intended for long term storage.
The thing you definitely wouldn’t want to use is an oil: while they are great to protect steel, if any of it gets into your case and contaminates your powder, you could have a squib or hang fire.
Edit: reading Redding’s instructions, they advise to remove the factory antioxidant oil with a bore cleaner and then apply with a cotton swab a thin coat of sizing lube (like imperial wax) on the inside of the sizing die to create a layer to protect the metal from the elements.
I kind of do the same for my bicycle chains. 4h gas, 4h mineral spirit, 30min degreaser! Et voilà, ready to be waxed 🤷
This is a fantastic way to get that preservative lubricant off of dies and other reloading accessories. Paint thinner is much safer to plastic parts than alternatives such as brake cleaner aerosols. Thanks for sharing it. And if you know if you want to take it one little step further, You can take your jar of mineral spirits with the parts inside and you can place it inside your ultrasonic bath that is filled correctly with water. The ultrasound energy will travel through the walls of the jar and will give you an added bit of agitation for your parts. Just practice safe judgment in doing so. I'm not suggesting that you put solvents directly into the pan of your ultrasonic system and that would be potentially very dangerous. Safety is number one!
Does anyone know what Shooters Choice is? I also used lighter fluid.
I use Eds red for cleaning my reloading Dies in my opinion it is the best cleaner, de-greaser and lubricator there is and you can make it at home
When I used my Hornady Sonic cleaner they looked like they came from fire. Not impressed
Best cleaner (Mineral Spirits) for firearms as well. Used it for over 40 years.
Can mineral spirits or paint thinner also be used to clean bullet molds aluminum molds or otherwise.
This is overkill, You need to clean the inside of the die and the mandrel that's it.
I like acetone its stronger and drys before you can get it sat back down
What are your thoughts about using this process on micrometer bullet seater dies?
using the mineral spirits, does it matter if its a normal die or carbide die?
Hornady one shot is what Hornady recommends, it works great but it's pricy. I also found that a rubbing alcohol in spray bottle and oversize baby swabs work really well too and without nasty acetone smell. In fact it's so convenient I wanted to make my own video on how easy it is to clean with it.
90% + rubbing alcohol?
gavintoobe 90% even better, i just use cheap 70%. Swabs are for inside cleaning where you get frequent build up of brass shavings because I flare case mouth on 38 special.
Dima Prok have you made the video?
@@BORNAGAINKJB You want to use 99.9 % if you can as the rest of the contents are water
Can’t you also use carburetor or brake cleaner also?
Very nice! I have used brake cleaner spray....
Dont forget to oil them before storage. Do not use a kerosene like wd40 or they will rust
Another great "how to". Thanks Gavin
don't use WD40! Balistol is ok.
I am guessing i can use same method to clean my old dies
Can I clean carbide dies the same way?
No lie, had a jar of PB and i just tried this......in less than 1 min the mineral spirits ate thru the bottom of the jar and started leaking. When I saw this video, my first thought was, "How is that jar not melting?".....sure enough, you have one mighty PB jar. Most plastics are made of stuff paint thinner will break down. I'd suggest the same method, but a Solvent Jar with a 2 HDPE rating and/or the classic glass Jelly Jar. Great video, love your channel. Keep up the good work!
Also, make sure you're putting mineral spirits, not lacquer thinner, in the plastic jar.
Thanks for the video
Gracias por el video.
I swab the smaller ID's with a Qtip also
No video all black
Hi Gavin, would you use the same cleaning procedure you showed for new dies for cleaning well- used dies?
Thanks for your contributions to the shooting community.
For well-used dies, I'd use an ultrasonic cleaner or scrub the insides with a brush (like a chamber brush for a rifle)- the gunk gets worked into the dies pretty good.
Why is my Jasco mineral spirits (Lowes) white and milky?
Dougie Fresh You purchased odorless mineral spirits.
Thank you!!!
Thanks man!
Excellent.
I cleaned my dies how the manufacturer said. Take it apart and spray it with One Shot. Took about a minute or two.
Can I use contact cleaner instead?
Be carefull some contact cleaners have a lubricant in them.
👍👍
The chemicals used to recycle are actually more harmful to the environment than not recycling...
Nice an simple process. Good tip indeed. Your method also saves in many cans of whatever a person uses at $10 a can over the years. With multiple die sets, etc, that saves at a much faster rate. I use nitrile gloves. When I use the air compressor, I backstop the overspray, wear eye pro and hepa mask.
Good tips!
Should you ever clean your dies after regular use?
Yes, it's great routine maintenance. Dies can get really gummed up with lube (your sizer) and brass debris!
How should I go about cleaning? Brake clean, Dry, Light oil on the outside?