Proverbs 27:17 Iron sharpeneth iron; So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof: So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured. Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
I am so happy to have come across your channel. At 63 years old, its so refreshing to be learn, re-learn and to have a presenter who can explain the why. Einstein said only those who understand their subject can explain it simply, and you, Sir, know your subjects. I am working through all your videos and have changed a few of my practices here and there after what I learned from you. Keep up the great work.
Great channel. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge. I do believe people will be watching your videos for many years to come. Quite a wonderful legacy.
The subject of annealing cartridge brass has intrigued me the the 37 yrs I've been a reloader and yet I've never felt educated enough on the subject to try it. Safety has always been my concern. I'm finally going to tackle it with the knowledge you've just imparted to me. Your an incredible teacher. Thank You and may God Bless you too.
This is the best video I have seen on this topic. Thank you for taking the time to pass on your knowledge. You are a great asset to the hunting, shooting and reloading community.
Im missing my regular gunblue video education. I hope all is well with you and yours sir. I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge that you share with the reloading, shooting, 2nd ammendment community as a whole and me specifically. Ive learned more about reloading general information, what to concerns to address as well as things that arent necessary but are commonly suggested by others, Some of which could be counter productive, and at the very least a waist of time. Its important for the community to have experts like yourself that we can trust. God bless and hope to see you in a new video soon.
I have been watching your videos for over a year now, and I want to thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with me, the average Joe. (with respect to firearms) The other factor that demands my respect for you is the fact that you sell nothing, but offer your library of skills, for the benefit of your fellow man. All of this is magnified to ME, because of your previous video that brought attention to your (and my) faith in Our Father God. May He continue to bless you as you bring attention to Him. Larry Venice,FL
Great and useful information. I have just began to consider annealing my brass and the thought of paying hundreds or thousands of dollars was really turning me off to it. Thanks for all the great videos.
I guess I really haven't placed a lot of thought that when I pick up a cartridge I holding my hand a carefully engineered piece of metallurgy. Thank you for the intellectual nourishment that is fun to learn about our sport. As my brass becomes ripe for annealing I will know why I'm doing what I'm doing. I'm very grateful thank you
Thanks for your patience and thoroughness in answering my questions. You are certainly an expert. I will be reloading more safely thanks to you. Thanks again.
I have been reloading for about 20 years, now. I have never really been able to get my head around the whole process - and even the reason for the whole process - of annealing. This tutorial has nailed it! I get it, and I now want to do it! Thank you, sir, for taking the time to make this instructional video.
Just want to say thank you. I bought a 338 lm and was only able to get 70 rds of expensive factory ammo for it. I have been on the fence about annealing it since i ordered new projectiles for them. I put a terrocatta pot base on top of an engine pully and filled it with water and feel like i just got good results for no money spent. You are my favorite gun channel since i found it. Thank you and happy holidays and an amazing new year to you and yours sir.
Always a learning experience. Thorough, methodical, with safety at the forefront. I appreciate your knowledge and your willingness to share. I have a lower cost setup arriving soon, and wanted this lesson before ruining...I mean properly annealing my first converted 300 BLK cases.
My primary rifle reloading caliber is .308 which is plentiful so I never considered annealing. I’ve recently began reloading 300 WSM which is considerably more expensive. Thanks for demonstrating the various methods and instructions.
I’ve soldered pipes, copper and brass for more than 45 years, when needed for plumbing, projects or artworks. I even remember that I scanned instructions with each new torch, but I guess I was only informed on how to set up a flame through practice. Great stuff, thanks.
FINALLY!! Someone that truly understands the process. I have been involved in working metals ( machining , forming , welding and even casting ) for 45 years. You nailed it with your explanation of the work hardening of brass. One thing nobody mentions is how little " working " it takes to measurably harden brass. I am a bench shooter. My competition rifles are , short range small bore-- Remington 22 single shot bolt action , Military rifle--custom built AR-15 where we shoot 100 and 200 yards , long range big bore--Russian Mosin nagant with a Finnish M-39 barrel and lots of after market parts and extensive machining , 200yd. +. I have found that if I anneal every time before resizing my necked brass dead soft , by the time the bullet is seated the temper on the neck is perfect. I know this is much more work than most would want to do ( including me ) so I built a machine that does it for me. It does each case one at a time , same way every time and it can hold 500 7.62x54R at a time. Since I have been doing this my scores have gone up about 4% at 100yd and almost 9% at 200yd.
Excellent! Anneal for at least 2 reasons: 1) Longer case life...no split necks 2) More consistent neck tension...F-class (bench rest) shooters typically anneal before each resizing of brass. Excellent suggestion to use Tempilaq as a temperature threshold indicator. Good safety tips...most safe annealing outdoors if possible with a fire extinguisher handy. Bench source annealer is $550 at Brownells where you can also purchase Temiplaq.
I have all your videos, just about all your subjects for reference when I start venturing in reloading annealing brass and otherwise valuable information you provided us with! I tell my friends I bought your videos and information you provide most viewers that are into this sport as well as anti-God bless you sir✝️
Tremendous teacher and an incredible representative for our firearms community. No question that you would have been one heck of a shop class teacher. Your LSA video on proper lubrication of the AR 15 really opened my eyes. I used it on my AR 10 as you instructed with great success. It’s just mind boggling how marketing has sent the masses running in circles forever chasing the latest gimmicks. Thank you for your time and energy. I know it takes a lot to make a presentation like this. God bless.
Mate your metallurgy is a bit off. Cartridge brass is copper and mainly zinc to make it brass. TIN additions make it bronze. A completely different kettle o fish. You keep saying elasticity, the word you are looking for is ductiliity. Sorry to pull you up but as it's metallurgy you are espousing best get it right. And talking over a burning torch is a bit daft when the process took 5 seconds!
Thank you so much for such a comprehensive tutorial that's useful for anyone at any budget. There's no need to watch any other tutorials on annealing. This is the only one anyone needs to watch. Full Stop.
I’d like to thank you for this annealing video - I found it very helpful when dealing with my stretched 7.62 military cases. I made a rotating water pan based on this video with an 18rpm motor that I got from Amazon. I used 700degF Tempilaq heat sensitive paint inside of several necks to decide I should do 6 seconds with my particular torch.
Good info! I'm glad I saw this one with you. I just ordered me an annealeez. I've been reloading for a while and wanting to anneal after my second reloading. Now I can. But I could have if I had seen your first time annealing, I liked that too! Thank you, sir!.
For a man with so much knowledge in the gun and ammunition area you should have so many more followers. I thank you for taking your time to make these interesting videos and I will continue to watch.
Thank you so much sir, I did my first annealing the other day using this, they look good and hopefully i will see my ES/SD tighten up back to the single digits i got when my brass was new. God bless
Warning about the manual annealing: I did that w the socket and a drive several years back. I then dumped the brass into a metal pan, one after the other. The first time I shot the brass I blew primers. I could just drop the primers back into the pockets, zero force needed. I solved the problem by immediately dropping each piece into a water bath to stop the heat from reaching and relaxing the case head. There was too much heat that soaked the head and they softened enough that a stiff load immediately blew the pocket out. It's not a bad way to anneal the brass, but stopping that heat creep is important in my experience.
Great Video! You must have taught. I was a Metals and Welding Instructor for the Military years ago. Your Information is (SPOT) on! Wonderful methods and ability to teach the beginner was perfect. Thank you very much!
Thanks GunBlue.I have used your socket method in a cordless drill but use a deep socket for 22/250.308.and 30/06 and have had great success Usually after 4 reloads.Great video as always So easy to understand when you explain everything so thoroughly. Cheers.
The first video I watched of yours I said this guy knows what he is talking about. I subscribed instantly. Keep up the good work and great videos. Thank you sir.
Well worth the time. Many thanks. Been reloading since the early 1980s, so there is always more to learn. Your accent reminds of my ex-wife! (That’s not a bad thing). As all reloaders, sometimes I think Rube Goldberg was a close relative.
Nice video. Thank you. I purchased the Bench Source Annealer. Sure it was a little pricey but very well made and rather compact. Works better for me using a standard grill size propane tank, splitter Y and two hoses to torches.
Excellent video! Removes the mystery and explains annealing in simple terms. One recommendation I would like to make. Anytime your working around a lighted torch, please wear safety glasses! Keep up the good work GunBlue490.
Great vid, it reminded me of somethings i had forgotten nice to see you going all the way back to the NRA water bath method which is how I still anneal my brass.
I place the torch in the vise and start annealing brass. I drop the annealed brass in a metal pan to cool off. I would love to get a AMP annealer in the future.
Just watched Eric Cortina on annealing. He brings his brass to a slight red glow using the same Bench Source machine set at about 4 seconds with two torches (one torch was map gas). He also did some longer to a bright red glow and then tested them all by reloading and shooting them. He concluded that the hotter cases were still annealed without damaging them but it was not necessary to get them that hot to properly anneal. With the lights off you could see a slight reddish glow when he does his normal process. You are saying that is too hot...never see a reddish glow?
When I bought my benchsource I spent some time talking to the developer. Simple: Use a torch with the pointed tip and aim it 20-30 deg downwards to the neck base. This is so the shoulder/case body absorbs more heat so the thin neck dosent over heat prematurely. And use very low light and look INSIDE the case neck to id that dark cherry red glow spot. As soon as see this you are done!
You have done a great thing with this video. I am sure that I will work more safely and likely others will too as a result of watching this video. Thank you and God bless you. -John Simmons
The water method would give consistent properties as long as the water temp, level and flame are consistent. High Powered Rifle Reloading (with G. David Tubb) is a great in depth video, perhaps 30 years ago, that does the precision end of this reloading. GunBlue490's videos are also quite good. I've not reloaded a single round but would consider both to be helpful. I may begin loading 5.56 soon because the ammo loading I like are quite expensive. 77 grain otm and heavier, longer projectiles for a 1 in 7 twist barrel. The difference in accuracy for the longer projectiles is great.
worddunlap It's not at all that precise, and such a method is intended only to extend case life, not to expect such methods to win gold. I have used the water bath method with very good results to extend cases for far more than 30 years, and it certainly does not require anything more than the attention I demonstrated.
Thank you for a very informative demonstration! I have seen and heard so many guys saying you need to heat the brass till it turns a light pink color/light red, surely at this stage its been over heated ? I will follow your very simplified method of the brown to slight blue coloration!
What has black neck/shoulder have to do with annealing if anything? I'm obviously new to this ... your videos are the best I have oserved thus far. Thank you for sharing this info. God Bless.
First I want to thank you for your excellent presentations. I am both an avid watcher and referrer to others. I hold you in great respect and please understand my comment here is not meant to be a criticism, just a correction for people who may not know. You indicated that cartridge brass is an alloy of copper and tin. I think that was a slip of the tongue, because all brass, including cartridge brass, is an alloy of copper and zinc (other trace elements will also be present). The alloy of copper and tin makes bronze, thus I expect that was just a slip of the tongue on your part. As a point of interest, cartridge brass is commonly known as "70/30" brass due to its typical 70% copper 30% zinc content. It is more officially categorized as C26000 brass, or C260 for short. Despite the common idea that it is 70% copper and 30% zinc, the C26000 industrial standard is actually a range that requires between 68.5% to 71.5% copper (as established by a joint committee of the American Water Works Association and National Association of Brass Manufacturers in November 1921; the standard may even predate that). What makes brass truly remarkable as a manufacturing material is its elasticity all the way up to 16,000 ksi (ksi = 1,000 pounds per square inch, thus up to 16 million psi). Anyway, thank you again for all that you do to educate us with your fantastic wealth of knowledge. You are greatly appreciated.
I almost don't like the tempilaq because it hides the colour of the brass: since there are colour indications on the brass I think I prefer to use that (obviously if there weren't colour indications I'd be happy to have it, but since you show such good examples of colour, I don't see a reason). Thank you for the video
GB... Thank you so much for taking the time to pass along your knowledge.. It is greatly appreciated. I make it a point to watch as many of your 'lessons' as I can. FWITW, I have read all of your reply's in the comments section multiple times so I can further learn. (Love your assessment on Salt Bath method.!!). While you addressed the minimal effects effects of brass hardening while fire forming or expanding brass to a larger cartridge I have a question about brass stretching. I did read, quite closely, and appreciate your commentary on Head Space factors So here is a question if you have time to respond that would be great. I acquired some time ago a 310 Martini Cadet that had been re chambered to 32 Winchester Special. The .321 factory bullets are way oversized for the .311/.316 rifling, so cast bullets are the answer. I did a chamber cast with Cerrosafe which revealed that the chamber is 2.065" which makes it .025 longer than the SAAMI specification of 2.040" Due to availability and cost I recently acquired a 100 Hornady 30-30 cases which are very close to the 32 Win Sp case (same OAL, SAMMI Spec) which I plan to either fire form or re form with the 32 Win Sp dies. So which would you do, anneal first, then fire form or run them through the dies. Or skip the annealing and do one or the other...? The other potential issue is that the new 30-30 Hornady cases only measure 2.030" So my brass in order to properly fit the chamber must be stretched or expanded by .035" I know I could just experiment with both methods but wanted to know if you thought annealing first was better and if you thought fire forming was a better way to expand the brass... Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. TIA Bob in St. Augustine
The nation's first community! Bob, Annealing is entirely unnecessary until after at least 3 or 4 reloads, especially with such low intensity cartridges. As a .32 Winchester Special owner, I frequently resize easily available 30-30 cases. The process is a matter of just running the cases into the .32 Special die, as you would normally. I do however, strongly recommend Lee dies especially for any neck enlargement, because they use a long tapered neck expanding shaft, which gently and gradually opens the neck, as opposed to balls that aggressively yank them open. As for the length, you have no concerns either. I believe that length you are referring to may be the extended leade before the rifling, rather than the case neck region. Some old chambers were not cut with a separate neck to leade junction. In any event, that amount of bullet jump is of absolutely no concern. Proprietary Weatherby rifles chambered for his cartridges, and 5.56mm NATO chambers have extended freebore. Due to their small shoulder taper and low intensity, I've seen no stretching of .32 Special cases, and have yet to trim one. As for your bullets, I understand that your lands measure .311" and grooves measure .316". If that's correct, you indeed must cast. FYI, .303 British bullets measure .311", but that would be too small if I understand correctly. If you are familiar with casting, you know that your bullets should be cast .001" larger than the groove diameter, and I would recommend using gas checks. I'm sure that .32 gas checks would work fine. All gas checks are made by Hornady, regardless of the name on the box, and their tapered heel holds tightly. I've shot Lee 8mm cast, sized down with their sizing die in my .32 Special extensively, and they are very, very accurate. Lee will make custom anything. FYI, in testing, bullets sufficiently hard for hunting velocities are utterly worthless for game, as they plow through oak and come out like they went in like a military FMJ. Have fun with your project, and God bless.
As a kid, I use to have a manual crank spring run record player for kid's songs. Would be just the ticket. Basically you're looking for uniformity in your process and make it repeatable. The water bath scenario appeals most to me without the expenses.
Up front, I don't have the ability to anneal at home. After a few reloadings, I toss the cases. I'm kind of a student of 8541 tactical, and find his methods of sizing and neck control work for me.
Worthy Brother, It's seven years later now and I am curious to know how this Vertex Bench-Source has held up. I have retired and looking at the price I'll stick with doing it the poor-mans way. But I'm still curious as to how well it's held up all these years. My older brother gave me his 721 in .300 Winchester Magnum. I took it to the range the other week and found out how hard hitting the recoil is. Thank goodness for lead sled's. Peace be with you.
As I was sitting here pondering the purchase of an Oehler Ballistic Chronograph it crossed my mind that the Lee Case Collator and loading tubes might be adapted to work with the Vertex Bench Source case annealer. But placing things by hand may be relaxing for some of us. Just a thought though.
Patman Crowley I've considered my Lee feeder too, but I actually enjoy feeding them, and if I put it in automated mode, what would I do except watch it and get bored... The first chronograph I used back in the early 70s was an Oehler, owned by my friend the first that used sky screens. I can't remember the model or price, but it was a lot, on the order of a high grade gun. He bought it, and I used it. LOL. Took a while to set up and was a bit finicky, as they had not yet figured out sky difusers, so sunlight played havoc. I was muttering about it to my local gun store owner, when he pulled a $79.95 Chrony off the shelf and showed it to me. My bride gave it to me a couple of weeks later for Christmas, and it's been doping out countless thousands of accurate velocities since 1988. My late dad used to wear out barrels testing loads with that thing, and I don't recall changing many batteries. It's clunky, and has their old cardboard windows, but every time I look at new ones, I just can't think if a good reason, and shooting through windows in cardboard isn't all that tough from 15 feet. LOL. Thanks for watching.
I have seen your bedding part 1 & 2. I have bought a parker hale C (detachable clip, would have prefered a floor plate) 300 Win. Mag. I was planning to free float it because the barrel was tight in the stock like you have explained why its done from the factory. When I removed the stock the forend was already glass beded to keep the barrel tight in the stock but not around the recoil lug or crossbolt. This will also be tricky atound the back of the trigger guard assembly. May I send you a few pictures for advice. Thx Roy
I do it in the dark so i can stop when the neck of the case just begin to glow, if you dont go further it won't destroy the brass. To know if you annealed the brass correctly you can do some test with some bad cases, by tring to crush them with some pliers to see its hardness. The only way to do it evenly is to use a machine, there are plenty of videos explaining how to make one.
LOL, yes but I am sure that you would still learn something by watching that video, he is a great trainer and is very methodical and a bit of an inventor, tinkerer to some degree. Thank you for all your experience and guidance in these days, and we are still having fun too, which is good.
I didn't hear abour the water pan method before! Currently I'm simply neck sizing my brass until one in the batch starts to split at the neck, which is usually 7-15 reloadings depending on the make and caliber.
sir, you really should organize your videos into playlist. I love your videos ans how you explain things. I recently watched your newer video on oiling guns and thought learned more in that hour that months of researching myself. but its hard to find. especially if you arent looking for that video specifically, it will be found easier. I say this as a new subscriber who is in the process if going through many many videos you have uploaded trying to soak up as much Info as I can. But its difficult trying to find spacificly handgun videos or maintenance videos etc. Not knocking on your work beacuse the way you explain things really leave no room for "maybe this is what he ment".
Wish I lived in NH...I could listen to him talk gun stuff all day...watched this vid all the way thru twice
Proverbs 27:17
Iron sharpeneth iron;
So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend.
Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof:
So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured.
Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
At 75 and reloaded for 50 years I and plenty of others enjoy and learn each time this great man takes his time to teach
I am so happy to have come across your channel. At 63 years old, its so refreshing to be learn, re-learn and to have a presenter who can explain the why. Einstein said only those who understand their subject can explain it simply, and you, Sir, know your subjects. I am working through all your videos and have changed a few of my practices here and there after what I learned from you. Keep up the great work.
instablaster.
Great channel. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge. I do believe people will be watching your videos for many years to come. Quite a wonderful legacy.
You, Sir, are a national treasure! Thank you for all of your exceptionally educational videos!
The subject of annealing cartridge brass has intrigued me the the 37 yrs I've been a reloader and yet I've never felt educated enough on the subject to try it. Safety has always been my concern. I'm finally going to tackle it with the knowledge you've just imparted to me. Your an incredible teacher. Thank You and may God Bless you too.
This is the best video I have seen on this topic. Thank you for taking the time to pass on your knowledge. You are a great asset to the hunting, shooting and reloading community.
Thx for taking the time, very much appreciated.
I was about to spend $2000 but was able to do it nicely for $100. Even more satisfying on a budget.
Im missing my regular gunblue video education. I hope all is well with you and yours sir.
I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge that you share with the reloading, shooting, 2nd ammendment community as a whole and me specifically. Ive learned more about reloading general information, what to concerns to address as well as things that arent necessary but are commonly suggested by others, Some of which could be counter productive, and at the very least a waist of time. Its important for the community to have experts like yourself that we can trust.
God bless and hope to see you in a new video soon.
I have been watching your videos for over a year now, and I want to thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with me, the average Joe. (with respect to firearms) The other factor that demands my respect for you is the fact that you sell nothing, but offer your library of skills, for the benefit of your fellow man. All of this is magnified to ME, because of your previous video that brought attention to your (and my) faith in Our Father God. May He continue to bless you as you bring attention to Him.
Larry
Venice,FL
This is by far the best presentation I've seen on this topic.
Great deal of knowledge . Thank you . I have one question when annealing brass and you do not reload it for some time will it spring back with age ?
I think you'll find that all of his lectures will meet that standard.
@@DANIEL2423able no, it will not change with time, in storage.
Great and useful information. I have just began to consider annealing my brass and the thought of paying hundreds or thousands of dollars was really turning me off to it. Thanks for all the great videos.
I've learned more about reloading in 2 videos than in a year of reading and reloading. thanks - subscribed
I guess I really haven't placed a lot of thought that when I pick up a cartridge I holding my hand a carefully engineered piece of metallurgy. Thank you for the intellectual nourishment that is fun to learn about our sport. As my brass becomes ripe for annealing I will know why I'm doing what I'm doing. I'm very grateful thank you
Thanks for your patience and thoroughness in answering my questions. You are certainly an expert. I will be reloading more safely thanks to you. Thanks again.
I have been reloading for about 20 years, now. I have never really been able to get my head around the whole process - and even the reason for the whole process - of annealing. This tutorial has nailed it! I get it, and I now want to do it! Thank you, sir, for taking the time to make this instructional video.
Just want to say thank you. I bought a 338 lm and was only able to get 70 rds of expensive factory ammo for it. I have been on the fence about annealing it since i ordered new projectiles for them. I put a terrocatta pot base on top of an engine pully and filled it with water and feel like i just got good results for no money spent. You are my favorite gun channel since i found it. Thank you and happy holidays and an amazing new year to you and yours sir.
Always a learning experience. Thorough, methodical, with safety at the forefront. I appreciate your knowledge and your willingness to share. I have a lower cost setup arriving soon, and wanted this lesson before ruining...I mean properly annealing my first converted 300 BLK cases.
I'm going to start annealing and you answered all my questions. Thanks for sharing!
old timers in reloading are loaded with something we all don't have......experience! Listen up!
Professor GunBlue490, you are the technical expert on firearms. Again, thank you for another highly informative but entertaining presentation.
Thank you for teaching this. Especially the simple, inexpensive methods.
My primary rifle reloading caliber is .308 which is plentiful so I never considered annealing. I’ve recently began reloading 300 WSM which is considerably more expensive. Thanks for demonstrating the various methods and instructions.
I’ve soldered pipes, copper and brass for more than 45 years, when needed for plumbing, projects or artworks. I even remember that I scanned instructions with each new torch, but I guess I was only informed on how to set up a flame through practice. Great stuff, thanks.
FINALLY!! Someone that truly understands the process. I have been involved in working metals ( machining , forming , welding and even casting ) for 45 years. You nailed it with your explanation of the work hardening of brass. One thing nobody mentions is how little " working " it takes to measurably harden brass. I am a bench shooter. My competition rifles are , short range small bore-- Remington 22 single shot bolt action , Military rifle--custom built AR-15 where we shoot 100 and 200 yards , long range big bore--Russian Mosin nagant with a Finnish M-39 barrel and lots of after market parts and extensive machining , 200yd. +.
I have found that if I anneal every time before resizing my necked brass dead soft , by the time the bullet is seated the temper on the neck is perfect. I know this is much more work than most would want to do ( including me ) so I built a machine that does it for me. It does each case one at a time , same way every time and it can hold 500 7.62x54R at a time. Since I have been doing this my scores have gone up about 4% at 100yd and almost 9% at 200yd.
Underscore the statement about using PROPANE and NOT MAPP, I ruined bunch of brass with the excessive heat from MAPP, thanks for pointing that out!!
Excellent! Anneal for at least 2 reasons: 1) Longer case life...no split necks 2) More consistent neck tension...F-class (bench rest) shooters typically anneal before each resizing of brass. Excellent suggestion to use Tempilaq as a temperature threshold indicator.
Good safety tips...most safe annealing outdoors if possible with a fire extinguisher handy.
Bench source annealer is $550 at Brownells where you can also purchase Temiplaq.
I have all your videos, just about all your subjects for reference when I start venturing in reloading annealing brass and otherwise valuable information you provided us with! I tell my friends I bought your videos and information you provide most viewers that are into this sport as well as anti-God bless you sir✝️
Tremendous teacher and an incredible representative for our firearms community. No question that you would have been one heck of a shop class teacher. Your LSA video on proper lubrication of the AR 15 really opened my eyes. I used it on my AR 10 as you instructed with great success. It’s just mind boggling how marketing has sent the masses running in circles forever chasing the latest gimmicks. Thank you for your time and energy. I know it takes a lot to make a presentation like this. God bless.
Mate your metallurgy is a bit off. Cartridge brass is copper and mainly zinc to make it brass. TIN additions make it bronze. A completely different kettle o fish. You keep saying elasticity, the word you are looking for is ductiliity. Sorry to pull you up but as it's metallurgy you are espousing best get it right. And talking over a burning torch is a bit daft when the process took 5 seconds!
Thank you so much for such a comprehensive tutorial that's useful for anyone at any budget. There's no need to watch any other tutorials on annealing. This is the only one anyone needs to watch. Full Stop.
I’d like to thank you for this annealing video - I found it very helpful when dealing with my stretched 7.62 military cases. I made a rotating water pan based on this video with an 18rpm motor that I got from Amazon. I used 700degF Tempilaq heat sensitive paint inside of several necks to decide I should do 6 seconds with my particular torch.
Good info! I'm glad I saw this one with you. I just ordered me an annealeez. I've been reloading for a while and wanting to anneal after my second reloading. Now I can. But I could have if I had seen your first time annealing, I liked that too! Thank you, sir!.
For a man with so much knowledge in the gun and ammunition area you should have so many more followers. I thank you for taking your time to make these interesting videos and I will continue to watch.
I am currently only reloading 9mm but once I step it up to rifle I will be using your videos!! Thank you for such good information.
Thank you so much sir, I did my first annealing the other day using this, they look good and hopefully i will see my ES/SD tighten up back to the single digits i got when my brass was new.
God bless
Warning about the manual annealing: I did that w the socket and a drive several years back. I then dumped the brass into a metal pan, one after the other. The first time I shot the brass I blew primers. I could just drop the primers back into the pockets, zero force needed. I solved the problem by immediately dropping each piece into a water bath to stop the heat from reaching and relaxing the case head. There was too much heat that soaked the head and they softened enough that a stiff load immediately blew the pocket out. It's not a bad way to anneal the brass, but stopping that heat creep is important in my experience.
Thanks a million, Gunblue490! What a terrific resource you are.
Great Video! You must have taught. I was a Metals and Welding Instructor for the Military years ago. Your Information is (SPOT) on! Wonderful methods and ability to teach the beginner was perfect. Thank you very much!
Thanks GunBlue.I have used your socket method in a cordless drill but use a deep socket for 22/250.308.and 30/06 and have had great success
Usually after 4 reloads.Great video as always
So easy to understand when you explain everything so thoroughly. Cheers.
Thank you. I'm new to bottle neck reloading. I've found a teacher.
The first video I watched of yours I said this guy knows what he is talking about. I subscribed instantly. Keep up the good work and great videos. Thank you sir.
Wow! At $529.00 for that machine, it sure makes that old drill look good!
Helped a lot showing different methods! Thank you!
Well worth the time. Many thanks. Been reloading since the early 1980s, so there is always more to learn. Your accent reminds of my ex-wife! (That’s not a bad thing). As all reloaders, sometimes I think Rube Goldberg was a close relative.
Nice video. Thank you. I purchased the Bench Source Annealer. Sure it was a little pricey but very well made and rather compact. Works better for me using a standard grill size propane tank, splitter Y and two hoses to torches.
I agree with Alen Bazinet. Thanks for sharing your down to earth common sense and know how.
This is a great video. Thank you very much. I have only reloaded handgun rounds, but I am getting ready to load 5.56.
Best channel on RUclips. Excellent work Gunblue490.
Wow. Wow. Wow. Thank you for all of this. Best spent hour researching reloading yet.
I enjoyed watching you play with your favorite toy! Thanks for the education.
Excellent video! Removes the mystery and explains annealing in simple terms. One recommendation I would like to make. Anytime your working around a lighted torch, please wear safety glasses! Keep up the good work GunBlue490.
Great vid, it reminded me of somethings i had forgotten nice to see you going all the way back to the NRA water bath method which is how I still anneal my brass.
I place the torch in the vise and start annealing brass. I drop the annealed brass in a metal pan to cool off. I would love to get a AMP annealer in the future.
I really enjoyed this video and looked for the bench source but couldn't find one. But for my needs I think the cheap way will be fine. Thanks
Good video. Thanks. Lots of information. I didn't realize that cartridge brass had tin in the alloy. I thought in was just copper and zinc.
Deep well sockets work great for keeping the heat located only to where you need it.
Just watched Eric Cortina on annealing. He brings his brass to a slight red glow using the same Bench Source machine set at about 4 seconds with two torches (one torch was map gas). He also did some longer to a bright red glow and then tested them all by reloading and shooting them. He concluded that the hotter cases were still annealed without damaging them but it was not necessary to get them that hot to properly anneal. With the lights off you could see a slight reddish glow when he does his normal process. You are saying that is too hot...never see a reddish glow?
When I bought my benchsource I spent some time talking to the developer. Simple: Use a torch with the pointed tip and aim it 20-30 deg downwards to the neck base. This is so the shoulder/case body absorbs more heat so the thin neck dosent over heat prematurely. And use very low light and look INSIDE the case neck to id that dark cherry red glow spot. As soon as see this you are done!
You have done a great thing with this video. I am sure that I will work more safely and likely others will too as a result of watching this video. Thank you and God bless you. -John Simmons
I am glad I found this help me save my nice brass. Been a while since I done this
I really enjoy your channel. Thanks for all the free content.
The water method would give consistent properties as long as the water temp, level and flame are consistent. High Powered Rifle Reloading (with G. David Tubb) is a great in depth video, perhaps 30 years ago, that does the precision end of this reloading. GunBlue490's videos are also quite good. I've not reloaded a single round but would consider both to be helpful. I may begin loading 5.56 soon because the ammo loading I like are quite expensive. 77 grain otm and heavier, longer projectiles for a 1 in 7 twist barrel. The difference in accuracy for the longer projectiles is great.
worddunlap
It's not at all that precise, and such a method is intended only to extend case life, not to expect such methods to win gold. I have used the water bath method with very good results to extend cases for far more than 30 years, and it certainly does not require anything more than the attention I demonstrated.
Thank you for a very informative demonstration! I have seen and heard so many guys saying you need to heat the brass till it turns a light pink color/light red, surely at this stage its been over heated ? I will follow your very simplified method of the brown to slight blue coloration!
Any redness is certainly too hot, and will damage the brass.
Another great detailed video.
Thank you for your time
What has black neck/shoulder have to do with annealing if anything? I'm obviously new to this ... your videos are the best I have oserved thus far. Thank you for sharing this info. God Bless.
First I want to thank you for your excellent presentations. I am both an avid watcher and referrer to others. I hold you in great respect and please understand my comment here is not meant to be a criticism, just a correction for people who may not know. You indicated that cartridge brass is an alloy of copper and tin. I think that was a slip of the tongue, because all brass, including cartridge brass, is an alloy of copper and zinc (other trace elements will also be present). The alloy of copper and tin makes bronze, thus I expect that was just a slip of the tongue on your part.
As a point of interest, cartridge brass is commonly known as "70/30" brass due to its typical 70% copper 30% zinc content. It is more officially categorized as C26000 brass, or C260 for short. Despite the common idea that it is 70% copper and 30% zinc, the C26000 industrial standard is actually a range that requires between 68.5% to 71.5% copper (as established by a joint committee of the American Water Works Association and National Association of Brass Manufacturers in November 1921; the standard may even predate that). What makes brass truly remarkable as a manufacturing material is its elasticity all the way up to 16,000 ksi (ksi = 1,000 pounds per square inch, thus up to 16 million psi).
Anyway, thank you again for all that you do to educate us with your fantastic wealth of knowledge. You are greatly appreciated.
I spin the brass in the drill method and use a small spark plug socket to heat the brass and protect the case.
I almost don't like the tempilaq because it hides the colour of the brass: since there are colour indications on the brass I think I prefer to use that (obviously if there weren't colour indications I'd be happy to have it, but since you show such good examples of colour, I don't see a reason). Thank you for the video
Love your videos. I always get great info from you. Thank you
GB... Thank you so much for taking the time to pass along your knowledge.. It is greatly appreciated. I make it a point to watch as many of your 'lessons' as I can. FWITW, I have read all of your reply's in the comments section multiple times so I can further learn. (Love your assessment on Salt Bath method.!!).
While you addressed the minimal effects effects of brass hardening while fire forming or expanding brass to a larger cartridge I have a question about brass stretching. I did read, quite closely, and appreciate your commentary on Head Space factors
So here is a question if you have time to respond that would be great.
I acquired some time ago a 310 Martini Cadet that had been re chambered to 32 Winchester Special.
The .321 factory bullets are way oversized for the .311/.316 rifling, so cast bullets are the answer.
I did a chamber cast with Cerrosafe which revealed that the chamber is 2.065" which makes it .025 longer than the SAAMI specification of 2.040"
Due to availability and cost I recently acquired a 100 Hornady 30-30 cases which are very close to the 32 Win Sp case (same OAL, SAMMI Spec)
which I plan to either fire form or re form with the 32 Win Sp dies.
So which would you do,
anneal first,
then fire form or run them through the dies.
Or skip the annealing and do one or the other...?
The other potential issue is that the new 30-30 Hornady cases only measure 2.030"
So my brass in order to properly fit the chamber must be stretched or expanded by .035"
I know I could just experiment with both methods but wanted to know if you thought annealing first was better and if you thought fire forming was a better way to expand the brass...
Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Bob in St. Augustine
The nation's first community! Bob, Annealing is entirely unnecessary until after at least 3 or 4 reloads, especially with such low intensity cartridges. As a .32 Winchester Special owner, I frequently resize easily available 30-30 cases. The process is a matter of just running the cases into the .32 Special die, as you would normally. I do however, strongly recommend Lee dies especially for any neck enlargement, because they use a long tapered neck expanding shaft, which gently and gradually opens the neck, as opposed to balls that aggressively yank them open.
As for the length, you have no concerns either. I believe that length you are referring to may be the extended leade before the rifling, rather than the case neck region. Some old chambers were not cut with a separate neck to leade junction. In any event, that amount of bullet jump is of absolutely no concern. Proprietary Weatherby rifles chambered for his cartridges, and 5.56mm NATO chambers have extended freebore. Due to their small shoulder taper and low intensity, I've seen no stretching of .32 Special cases, and have yet to trim one.
As for your bullets, I understand that your lands measure .311" and grooves measure .316". If that's correct, you indeed must cast. FYI, .303 British bullets measure .311", but that would be too small if I understand correctly. If you are familiar with casting, you know that your bullets should be cast .001" larger than the groove diameter, and I would recommend using gas checks. I'm sure that .32 gas checks would work fine. All gas checks are made by Hornady, regardless of the name on the box, and their tapered heel holds tightly. I've shot Lee 8mm cast, sized down with their sizing die in my .32 Special extensively, and they are very, very accurate. Lee will make custom anything. FYI, in testing, bullets sufficiently hard for hunting velocities are utterly worthless for game, as they plow through oak and come out like they went in like a military FMJ.
Have fun with your project, and God bless.
Awesome presentation!
Excellent video, and valuable information sir. Love your content. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent presentation.
EXCELLENT SEMINAR Thank you so Much
As a kid, I use to have a manual crank spring run record player for kid's songs. Would be just the ticket. Basically you're looking for uniformity in your process and make it repeatable. The water bath scenario appeals most to me without the expenses.
Thanks so much for the wonderful, complete information.
Wow you got it right l learned so much thank you sir for your time and trouble you are a great teacher keep up the good work
I love the rotisserie motor thingy you made that's awesome
Super informative and helpful video. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for the knowledge, tips and tricks.
Up front, I don't have the ability to anneal at home. After a few reloadings, I toss the cases. I'm kind of a student of 8541 tactical, and find his methods of sizing and neck control work for me.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your teaching! 😊
True knowledge, and to the point. Awesome video! Thank you so much!
Worthy Brother, It's seven years later now and I am curious to know how this Vertex Bench-Source has held up. I have retired and looking at the price I'll stick with doing it the poor-mans way. But I'm still curious as to how well it's held up all these years. My older brother gave me his 721 in .300 Winchester Magnum. I took it to the range the other week and found out how hard hitting the recoil is. Thank goodness for lead sled's. Peace be with you.
The woodchuck den makes a annealing tip for a torch like that, so it surrounds the brass, no spinning necessary
Thank you for the video. I got some .303 British cases to anneal.
As I was sitting here pondering the purchase of an Oehler Ballistic Chronograph it crossed my mind that the Lee Case Collator and loading tubes might be adapted to work with the Vertex Bench Source case annealer. But placing things by hand may be relaxing for some of us. Just a thought though.
Patman Crowley
I've considered my Lee feeder too, but I actually enjoy feeding them, and if I put it in automated mode, what would I do except watch it and get bored... The first chronograph I used back in the early 70s was an Oehler, owned by my friend the first that used sky screens. I can't remember the model or price, but it was a lot, on the order of a high grade gun. He bought it, and I used it. LOL. Took a while to set up and was a bit finicky, as they had not yet figured out sky difusers, so sunlight played havoc. I was muttering about it to my local gun store owner, when he pulled a $79.95 Chrony off the shelf and showed it to me. My bride gave it to me a couple of weeks later for Christmas, and it's been doping out countless thousands of accurate velocities since 1988. My late dad used to wear out barrels testing loads with that thing, and I don't recall changing many batteries. It's clunky, and has their old cardboard windows, but every time I look at new ones, I just can't think if a good reason, and shooting through windows in cardboard isn't all that tough from 15 feet. LOL. Thanks for watching.
I have seen your bedding part 1 & 2. I have bought a parker hale C (detachable clip, would have prefered a floor plate) 300 Win. Mag. I was planning to free float it because the barrel was tight in the stock like you have explained why its done from the factory. When I removed the stock the forend was already glass beded to keep the barrel tight in the stock but not around the recoil lug or crossbolt.
This will also be tricky atound the back of the trigger guard assembly. May I send you a few pictures for advice.
Thx
Roy
Great video and explanation! Thank you.
I do it in the dark so i can stop when the neck of the case just begin to glow, if you dont go further it won't destroy the brass. To know if you annealed the brass correctly you can do some test with some bad cases, by tring to crush them with some pliers to see its hardness. The only way to do it evenly is to use a machine, there are plenty of videos explaining how to make one.
I'm learning more and more , thank you , Sir
finally, a guy that knows his stuff.
I swear if Gunblue490 had a video on how to scratch your back side, it would be an hour and a half long!
LOL, yes but I am sure that you would still learn something by watching that video, he is a great trainer and is very methodical and a bit of an inventor, tinkerer to some degree. Thank you for all your experience and guidance in these days, and we are still having fun too, which is good.
Yes, but his voice is comforting and sincere.
Yes but if you listen there is a plethora of knowledge to absorb from him. Brilliant man.
Yes, definitely make a good politician 😁
I think if your intentions are an insult then maybe take your insults and shovel up urs
I didn't hear abour the water pan method before! Currently I'm simply neck sizing my brass until one in the batch starts to split at the neck, which is usually 7-15 reloadings depending on the make and caliber.
minutemanqvs
Now you know how to make them last longer!
Very good information and very informative !
👍👍👍👍👍
That was a great video. Thanks for the information 👍🏼
Great video, thank you for posting
sir, you really should organize your videos into playlist. I love your videos ans how you explain things. I recently watched your newer video on oiling guns and thought learned more in that hour that months of researching myself. but its hard to find. especially if you arent looking for that video specifically, it will be found easier. I say this as a new subscriber who is in the process if going through many many videos you have uploaded trying to soak up as much Info as I can. But its difficult trying to find spacificly handgun videos or maintenance videos etc. Not knocking on your work beacuse the way you explain things really leave no room for "maybe this is what he ment".
Thank You for your effort & time, I just became a subscriber.
At 75 and reloaded for 50 years I and plenty of others enjoy and learn each time this great man takes his time to teach
Thank you for the tips and ideas. You’ve gained a subscriber.