ruclips.net/user/shortshLG31e8Vocs?feature=share something like this I just want to add a timer and a micro switch to activate the heater on the up stoke
I found this video last Summer when I was searching for an effective, yet affordable, way to anneal my brass. Watch the video, take your time assembling the different components, test it on a few rejects to get the timing and process dialled in and then get started! I decided on a stripped wire with a tight tolerance to reduce the duration of annealing. One of the most useful videos I’ve found on RUclips!
Greetings, I constructed an annealer assembly using your idea with a similar unit but added a couple of convenience refinements. In lieu of using the push button all the time I installed a 3.5mm phono jack and plug. The jack receptacle is installed at the rear of the annealer and wired in parallel and soldered to the push button pins. The male plug is wired to the dry contacts of the timer so that when the dry contacts of the timer close it acts the same as pushing the button thus turning on the annealer. This allows the annealer to be used for other purposes and not dedicated to servicing brass. An on/off toggle switch was also installed on the cover of the timer case and wired in series with the “hot” conductor of the power cord so the timer can be turned off and on rather than having to unplug the timer from the power strip each time. The annealing unit came wired so the fan stays on all the time. On other units where the fan only comes on when the button is pushed the fan can be rewired to the annealer input power wires so that the fan stays on all the time. I have not had the annealer overheat as yet even when annealing a couple of hundred cases at a time. I found that using #10 AWG solid wire took too long to heat up and cool down. I made some coils with #12 AWG solid wire and they seem to work better, reducing heating and cooling times. All in all everything works quite well and I believe is much safer than the propane torch or hot lead immersion methods. Good luck.
How is your setup working? I ended up doing something similar with the parallel timer. It worked great for my 1st session...~250 pcs of brass at 1.20s each. Next time I tried to use it, it died. Fan ran for about 30 seconds. The timer fired the coil twice and then it died...no light, no fan, no nothing. I can't seem to find a fuse it the thing. Any ideas what might have shorted or opened?
As everyone else has said, thank you Sir, great system, haven't built mine yet, but will soon. I shoot .45-70 and .40-65, those brass cases are rare items here in Canada. The prices of your system is higher in Canada but not anywhere near the price of the AMP. That annealer is $1950. here in Canada, so you have saved myself and many more people a lot of money, thank you. Dave & The Girls
I took your ideafurther by adding an ice cube relay to send power to initiate a signal to trigger theswitch. Ifound the annealer needs to run constantly to cool. In short, 2 cords from the same circuit,one to the controller, and one to the annealler. A cord from the controller goes to a coil that pushes the button, so the internal fan runs constantly.
Work in progress. Ordered all the parts. I didn't have any bullet boxes to spare so I used a cardboard factory loaded eldx box. Came out looking pretty good. I just wish we could post pics in the comments
Just put one of these together. Works great! The fan runs the entire time button pushed or not! Goodbye propane! I used a bullet box as well. Thanks for the vid.
The funny thing is seeing others copying this setup and posting videos of same. I built a twin to this and it works fine, once I figure out how to set the relay timer that is. That’s on me. I saw no reason to post a copy of work you’ve already done. Have recommended the setup to others as well. I DID get an aluminum block and had it CNC’d for 7mag cases. That eliminates the issue of overheating a plastic reloading tray. It was also cheaper and I had access to someone who did that free. This is the cheapest setup of all my reloading “toys”. Great concept and kudo’s to posting this.
It took a year to talk myself into trying it. But I finally did it. $240 and I just annealed my first set of brass. If anyone is handy enough to reload, then putting all this together is not that hard of a job. Thank for the how to, I never would have come up with this on my own.
I just finished my build too with some improvement. I disassembled induction heater and jumped out 2 button wires and 2 12v fan wires by an old 4 wire usb cord. The fan wires connect directly to the dc power supply and button wires to the relay terminals. Then I put 12v power supply into the same control box. This way the fan is always on when plugged in and only a low voltage control signal goes through the relay.
Thank you so much! I am going to make one from basic components for my senior project for my EE degree. Glad to see people are doing this already. As a student I can never afford any nice reloading equipment and have had it in my mind to make this to save money for other things.
This is awesome. Thanks for sharing. It does appear though that it's heating the case to far down. Also another idea is to take what you've built and put it in a case. The with a perfectly aligned hole in the top just drop the brass in head down and wait for it to kick on and off, then just keep repeating. At that point it would be a matter of how fast you can remove one brass and insert another one. And since it will align perfectly you won't have to worry if the brass is touching the coil once you drop it in.
Outstanding. Works just like you say. I set mine up next to a single stage LEE Challenger and changed out the switch for the inductor so that I don't have to hold the button down. Control is through the relay with a locking on/off on the inductor. I raise the brass into the inductor coil and use a longer gap between cycles to give me time to swap the cases in the shell holder. I'm using it to anneal 24ga Magtec shotgun brass to form .577/450 Martini-Henry cases. Once I got the time dialed in I haven't ruined a case since, forming in 3 steps and annealing between each step. I'm not doing hundreds of cases (generally a box of 25), so the longer time isn't a big deal and the fan keeps up with the temperature well.
Also I bought copper for this in a roll 99.?? Pure. I cut exactly a foot, might want to go 14/15” next time. Also I found 4mm fiberglass sheathing on EBay.
Insulation Braided Sleeving, 33Ft-4mm High TEMP Fiberglass Sleeve White. This is the listing, going to be a millimeter larger so I can get it right the first time. I would rather it fit with all the wait.
@@jetthreat5000 that's twice the cost and you literally have to build it with a lot of components and it doesn't look as user friendly with caliber changes
@@cademarti1365 First off, you will blow the induction board on this since it isn’t water cooled as it is designed to be used in short periods and over and over a hundred plus times. Second, the DIY GinaErick induction annealer isn’t hard to build. Third, it’s stupid easy to switch between calibers.
Just finished mine. Rolled my coil for my '06 Springfield custom. Glad I have plenty of range brass I really underestimate the power in my daylight bench. Tonight I had it dark lit with my EDC led flashlight pointed at the creaking so would not run into anything bug. Will adjust my timer at night and install a foot switch. Coil is the ground wire in a piece of 10 4 w/ground romex. Mandrel is 5/8 in birch dowel. Thanks for a really great DIY annealer.
Great idea and great video! I hope you make money from us using the links to buy. -Cheers! UPDATE: Note that some brass heats up MUCH faster than others. I thought something was wrong with my unit, until I tried another brand of cartridge and bam! It heated up just like the video. Slow heating is not a bad thing - it give you finer control over the result. Also, don't forget to cut the coil wire as short as possible, like in the video - it helps a lot.
I have a 0-150vac variac and I'm thinking I can do this very same thing using nichrome resistance wire. I like the timer so will incorporate that into the build. Up till now I just use the variac to make hot wires for cutting foam but have nichrome wire in sizes from .09 guitar string size to 3/16" heater coil. Will let you and all know how it works out.
I’m going to try to Mount this above my press and raise the case with the ram then when it shuts off lower ram and use a case kicker to kick the case into a baking pan. Then reload the shell holder
Thank you very much for sharing this information. This is by far the cheapest setup out there, and has the same degree of accuracy. You need an affiliate link to the items so you can get some kind of compensation for this information. Either way thanks for sharing this with the community.
Technically all the coil 'turn' counts should be in 1/2 turn increments. When you make a full turn, the end wire is pointing in the wrong direction. You need both leads pointing in the same direction so you can attach them to the power source (heater). This is why the directions for making inductors by wrapping wire around a drill bit references 3.5 or 5.5 turns.
I’ve been contemplating taking on the challenge of building one of the several different diy annealers I’ve seen. . This one is hands down the best. Thanks.
Great system. I used 8 gage copper wire and made my own coils by wrapping it around some tubing. I started with 5/8" I.D., and it took 9.5 seconds to get the .556 brass to glow. I then made another coil with a 1/2" I.D., and the heating time really decreased - 2.5 seconds to get the same glow. So by decreasing the I.D. by 1/8", the time to heat was about 1/4 of the time. BTW, I also saw that the 110-volt timers listed on Amazon don't go less than 1 second, so the 12-volt timer was necessary.
@John Hagerman I built mine using the 110V timer. It skips having to use a secondary plug and cable to run the setup which for me is a big plus. I am more than pleased so far. I just got it completed yesterday. That said the wiring of the 110V unit was a PITA. It took a while because the instructions are worthless. I got it now though and it's fine. Anyway this is the first I've seen anyone explaining the difference between the 12V vs 100V timers. Really though asking out of curiosity more than anything would being able to time below 1 second make a difference? I could easily convert mine for $12 but at first glance I don't see the need.
@@tyler6147 Actually I originally built it with the 120v unit before I found out it didn't do less than 1 second intervals, so I switched to the 12 volt. In my limited experience so far, I think the 1 second interval would be workable if the induction coil I.D. is larger, like I originally had with the 5/8" I.D. coil. Certainly using the smaller coil means that the timing is more critical due to the fast temperature rise - maybe that's not such a good thing. By making your own coils and experimenting with I.D. sizes, an operator could probably come up with a happy medium pretty quickly.
@@johnhagerman1465 That's exactly what was running through my head. Maybe play with the coils a bit and see what happens. I am using the coils that came in the pack (with the heat resistant stuff on them). I straightened them and rewound one of them to see how it works. I have three of them so I can possibly come up with an optimal diameter.
I'm sure I'm missing something but am I correct that the white wire from the extension cord does not get hooked to the module? The white wire does not get cut.
Place the hand held induction heater on a drill(Hand drill) press stand to lower and raise to a set height, use a foot pedal/swich to start heater, place a U shaped aluminum channel as guide and drill case sized holes in a strip of wood or aluminum that will run in the guide under the heater coil, place water bucked under the end of guide so cases drop through hole. About the same as cartridge press, One hand to run the handle and the other to place the cases. Nock youself out if you want to automate. Same foot activated swich for a raise and lower hidraulic/pneumatic/electrical press stand
Thank you for this video. I just built this setup but put it in a box with a trapdoor. Mounted the hot rod in the box on all thread with hanger strap. Sloted the holes and added knobs so you can adjust your coil up and down. The all thread lets you adjust the left,right. If you pop the back off of the timer you'll see a connector labeled trigger. I soldered wires to the gnd and low signal terminals and ran them to a momentary pushbutton on the front of the box for a start pushbutton instead of using the one on the front of the timer. I'm using a 15a 24vdc power supply to feed the timer, solenoid, and some cooling fans. I ganged up two computer turbo looking fans to force air into the back of the hot rod so it has a continuous air flow instead of only running it's internal fan when the timer turns it on. There's a pretty good breeze coming out of the front of the hot rod. I have a timer relay that will auto activate the trapdoor with the annealer finishes. Getting the cases out of the coil asap may lessen the heat soaking into the coil. My first coil attempt was 12awg wrapped 7 times around a 10mm socket. It would do a 308 in 4 seconds. The second was 8 wraps around a 308 case for 556. It turns the case red in 1.5 seconds. I think I'll do a different .308 coil with 8 wraps around a 338L case to get more efficiency. Thank you NETT for this vid and your updates!
@@northeasttexastactical375 added one more fan inside the box that blows out through the coil access to cool off the coil. Works very well. 6.5 creed brass in 1.7 seconds.
Up too 800 6.5 cases through the annealer without issue. Figured out if you set the timer to a continuous loop with a 7 second delay you can just feed it cases without it getting hot. Currently looking at a pile of parts and electronics that will become a case feeder for it.
You can buy an induction heater kit off Amazon for $20 +/- I bought one of the larger ones with a water cooled coil and used a 48v 1000w PSU to drive it. It heats up a 1/2" bolt cherry red in a few seconds.
Hello Mr North. Just question for you or others reading. I bought everything and it works AWESOME. However, the induction heater I have works with the fan on all the time even when you don't press the red button. This is good to save the machine as you mentioned. However, when I put it on the timer relay the fan only works when the button is pressed. I think the relay cuts all the power off the heater. Is there a way to adjust the relay so that it still powers the fan ??? Or the work I did with the relay is just a continuous stop watch. PLS HELP!
I would imagine the 27 thumb downs were the product manufacturers that are pissed you made something better for way less and more consistency. getting the parts now thanks.
Silly me. I have been putting as many cases as will fit in a Cake pan. Fill with water up to level I don't want to get hot. Then Broil till right glow is reached. I might have to build one of these. Thanks
Ohh goodness.... no... get you one of these. I've got a followup video in the works to clarify some stuff and share what I've learned the past year running it.
I like many who reload want to anneal our brass cases, but what method is cost-effective? The AMP isn't cost-effective by any means, but if you have the bread, buy it. The flame, yes leaves a question "did it do the job or not." The recoil method may be "I don't have a way to test my machine." Whatever method you are using, it may work to a degree to anneal brass cases. Eric Cortina and Vortex have videos on the subject saying with the flame method about 7/8 seconds. EP Integrations annealer is what I use. It is fast and simple!
I can't drop $1300 on a machine and didn't want the fidgety propane solutions that looked like you were basically guessing and very inconsistent. I looked up making an annealer and this is the first one I have seen that didn't require 500 steps and some sketchy circuit building. I may just pick the parts up, the big difference between this an AMP is they have the formulas and hardness tester, I'm thinking of just doing some range work where you anneal for X amount of time and go up a short amount, shoot, a bit more, shoot and grab the velocity and group size data to see where the peak accuracy comes from.
If you reduce the watts on the transformer output, the case would heat up a little slower and it would be easier to time the precise amount needed to get perfect results. As much as the $200 induction heater is significantly less expensive than the professional units, you can make one from a discarded microwave transformer very easily for under $80. It's not about saving $120, it's about getting a unit that is perfect for the job.
@@InvestorAcademyPodca The transformer would only be for the power supply. Read the electricbike dot com article on making a resistance soldering unit and spot welder from a microwave transformer first, then here is the video I would use ruclips.net/video/YO_cYhV6eIM/видео.html
Making sure I understand your wiring. You cut the extension cord so that hot wore is cut in two, but leave the ground and neutral? The cord is plugged into the wall, and the hot wire goes to the relay. The relay outputs the hot wire to the end of the extension cable, in which the heater is plugged in to. The relay itself is powered by an ac/DC power supply. Is that correct?
I bought the same parts that are in the video and went through some testing/adjusting to get the output time set to get just the right amount of "glow" to anneal brass. The problem I'm now encountering is that 4 days ago 3.9 seconds was exactly the right time needed..... Yesterday I got (using the same piece of 308 brass) more like 6.5 seconds as being the correct amount of heating time. Same deal with other calibers (using the same piece of brass of THAT caliber for testing/setup. I can't figure out why the time seems so wildly different. I've tried checking most everything---supply/source voltage and current, connections, etc., etc. I test in a darkened room so I can see pretty much exactly how much "glow" I'm getting in the brass....BUT why so much varying? I mean like nearly double or half the time! I'm now wondering if the timer is not turning on/off as indicated. Anyone else having that sort of issue?
Just a thought, but is the brass you’re annealing from the same manufacturer? i.e. Remington, Hornady, Lapua, Winchester, Norma, Alpha….? If the manufacturer is different, the timing will be different for each. I’ve noticed that on the expensive AMP machine, it requires you to input which brand of brass you’re annealing.
Just saw this, sorry. I will say you don't want to just keep annealing the same test piece, it does react differently if it's already annealed. And different brands definitely have different anneal times. Could be the depth of the coils on the case is different.
Bet I've come back and watched this video 6+ times. Even though I have the ANNEALEEZ 2.0 I still want one of these. Just so much faster to set up and the speed at which it accomplishes the task is fascinating. I'm by no means a high volume shooter and the whole reloading process is therapeutic for me (I'm from the south so we don't do anything fast anyways). Must be the tinkerer inside of me. :-)
I'm confused as you seem to use different parts at different times. If I understand it correctly, the induction unit gets plugged into the power strip after it has been modified to attach to the timer. The extension cord gets attached to the timer and plugs into a wall outlet. Correct? There is no necessity for a wall wart at all.
Put mine together last night and with the way my coil is wound, I'm not sure I'm going to mess with the timer. I don't think it matters how far down the case your anneal goes as long as the neck and shoulder are fully annealed. (obviously you don't want to soften the case head or web). I just wound the coils using the coil winding mandrels that come with my Socket Set (8mm and 9mm mandrel as you did-- worked great!). It seems plenty effective to just heat until you see the first hint of glow, then release.
Funny that I’d get a notification of ETT liking my comment the same day I finished the timer build. It works great! My particular coil needs 1.4 seconds for a good anneal, but I’m pleased.
From 3:54 to 4:02 you are suddenly test voltage from a wire that came out of where?? 4:08 to 4:12 you have a switch that was not introduced so we're did it come from? What does it do?
I was just making sure the positive and negative wires were correct. That is just the 12v power supply I'm connecting to the module. Instead of stripping my 12v plug, I just have a female barrel plug adapter with those 2 wires coming out of it. You could literally just plug in 2 wires directly from a car battery and it would be the same thing.
This is one of the best annealing videos on RUclips (I've watched/re-watched several times), thanks! I recently purchased the induction heater and a timer. One wrinkle though: while the heater looks identical, the interior fan runs constantly (which is probably good for cooling) once plugged in. I hesitate to disable this by using the timer to control power to the unit....but don't have a lot of great options. I'm not really interested in changing the internal wiring to exclusively power the heater from the timer..... I guess another option would be going the route of removing the case out the bottom, as the GinaErik design does- Any thoughts or wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks again for the cost effective idea!
Glad you liked it. Ive seen guys who get the one with the fan on full time. Regardless, the induction unit will only have power when the relay allows it, so technically it shouldn't matter how the fan operates when plugged in normally because they will all operate the same when using the timer module. The only difference I see is when you aren't pushing the button the fan will still cycle on and off for the set amount of time due to the relay.
One work-around you can do is to have a short 'off' phase that is just long enough to transition onto or off of a case. Then hold the coil well above during 1-2 cycles without pressing the button that powers the coil so that the fan runs but the inductor does not. You could also just keep another fan blowing nearby, like the creator of this mentioned is good to do anyways.
@@ericstrabel4365 some units run the fan full time whether the button is on or off, so that would work. Mine only works when the button is pushed though.
I'm curious how much power (ex. how many amps) the device is drawing during the annealing cycle. I'm assuming the open circuit voltage on the output (where the induction coils connect) is a nominal 120 V.
Good for you. I am doing something about the same. I use copper tube and pump water through it. Never gets hot. Use a computer water cooling radaitor and fan.
I thought about upgrading to something like that, but it only takes 1 second, or actually like .92 seconds to anneal a case, so I can do 100 cases in about 6-7 minutes with a 3 second off cycle
Yes the AC wire diagram for the timer is wrong. It was drawn as if it was DC except they put the (+) on the wrong side of the load. To make it work you would splice an additional piece of wire into the cord's white(neutral), which would go to the timer's GND terminal. Then cut the black(hot) wire; split the male plug side into two wires, and connect one to VCC and one to S1. Finally, connect the black wire on the female plug side to SO. Leave the green wire uncut. This applies to the device in your first link.
Finished putting the pieces of mine together today. Disassembled the heater so I’m using the time to just control the switch. The fan runs continuously on the heater and it stays nice and cool. 1.5 on and 4 seconds off is just right for the coil I made to use on 38 special brass. I ordered some 3mm fiberglass braiding with my timer and used 8 gauge copper for my coil. Stayed nice and cool
Just completed mine. I used a stock coil that fits great over my brass. To pick the cycle time I watched the brass turn gray and creep down the neck and about 3/8" passed the shoulder. The case never glowed. I believe that should work nicely. It took 19 seconds for reference... I was quite surprised it took that long but Im ok with it. I can't see spending $1400 on the AMP when this appears to do the same job with great repeatability. Thank you very much for sharing!!!
@@northeasttexastactical375 Thank you, I saw thats what you did and read some comments. I'll pick up some wire and give it a shot. Again, thanks for sharing. Great and simple DIY.
How do you know your annealing temperature....Annealing Made Perfect show that for a .223 case flash annealing to 1000F took 3.4 seconds. Each case head stamp and caliber requried a specific temperature/time for flash annealing...time is easy to measure...how do you know your temperature is high enough for complete annealing?
That may be their time with their standard size coil that is the same size regardless of size of case being annealed. Here, you can custom size your coil to anneal much much faster. If you go 3.4 seconds with this rig you'll completely melt a case. There is templaque you can use or use a brass glow color chart to get the right color of red glow. There seems to be quite a big gap from perfectly annealed to over annealed, and it's been working great for me. Just had a 5rd group with my .260 with a 1.6 SD. Check it out on our facebook.
Hallo... wow looks great But how have u conected the timer with the annealing machine? Or U controll just the energy current, with the timer? My english is not the best!!! Preise explain it,... Greetings from Germany
There are no modifications to the annealer, it is just plugged into the power strip. The timer is what controls the circuit on the power strip. So you could technically put anything on a timer that's plugged into the power strip.
Thanks for checking. The wire that comes with the kit is 10ga. Have you ever tried 5 five coils of it? Or do you think that it will make it take longer? So have you settled on 12ga? How do you insulate it? Is wire available with that white braided insulation? Thank you. Mike
I haven't tried 5 coils of the 10ga wire that came with it. I think it would take longer and it would heat more of the case than I need. I don't insulate the 12ga wire I use, it's just bare wire. Just make sure the coils aren't touching or you effectively "short out" the coil in between. I used my 12ga, 5 coil wire on a piece of 300WM brass and it took a little under 3 seconds to over anneal it. Ive used the 12ga unprotected wire exclusively since making the video and I love the speed i'm getting from it.
I thought I was ready to go and I now see that the timer I ordered ( I wanted a 110V model) only goes to 1 second intervals. After searching all day, I can't seem to find a 110V timer that goes to 0.1 or 0.01 seconds. I may have to reconsider a 12V model. I was trying not to used a transformer. If I end up going to a 12V model, can I use a small transformer or do I need one from a laptop, etc? Thanks again for your help. Mike
@@mikeortho1 You can use any DC inverter, I just had an extra laptop charger laying around. You can get the one in the link in the description from Amazon as well
I was looking at the gas machines i dont like the fuel running out idea. I do like the induction idea but as you realized and said its quite spendy. I like this idea. BRILLIANT! Thank you! I just subscribed
Confused on your wiring setup. You don't show a few steps. It seems that you have stripped two WHITE cables: one is the 3-prong power cord, what is the other white cable? Also you seem to have an adaptor to connect the ac/dc converter to timer?
Really like the idea of induction heating, but I've been trying to think of a way to incorporate a case feeder, so the case drops down into the induction heater.
When the cases overhead, do they all melt in the same spot? Facing the unit like that? That may indicate a lack of uniformity in the annealing. Not sure you care, but you could spin them while they're heating to avoid that.
P5 isn't the time increments, it's the on/off programming cycle. I can't find my instruction sheet but it's on there, whenever you toggle it, the decimal will move across the zeroes.
I have not. I've had a bit more time behind this thing now and I can keep it cool enough with the table fan to run about 100rds in 15-20 minutes. Definitely long enough to get some work done.
@@northeasttexastactical375 Hi. I'm making progress on my annealer using the same handheld unit as you. Thanks again for sharing your project. I see you're using 4 windings in your coil, did you ever try 5? Some of the cases I'll be annealing will be 30 cal magnums and I'm wondering how it might work with 5 coils? Do you think it would take more or less time to anneal a case. Do you think the unit can handle 5 coils? Thanks for any insight that you may share. Mike
How many cases are you getting, or averaging, per coil? Example: Let’s say you’re doing .223/5,56 cases. How many cases are you getting done before a coil burns out? Same question for, say, .308 cases? Or any other cases you have/may have done if you haven’t used it on .308? Is there a way to maybe adjust the output of the conductor itself? And when you make your own coils, what are you using to wrap the wire your making the coil out of to get them nice and round? I can see a .50 caliber casing for like the .223/5.56 brass. Or a flashlight barrel maybe. As for making sure the coils don’t touch, what happens if they do? And how or why does the matter when the coils are a part of the same wire? Or is it that not having them touch simply makes it conduct better? Lastly, the material around the coils looks like it’s that same stuff I see wrapped around wires inside of like toaster ovens and other electronics where heat is conducted. Is that what it is, a white non burning or flame/heat resistant cloth material? If so, you can take old stuff apart and get more. 😬 Thanks in advance.
I haven't burnt out a coil yet. I don't let it get hot enough. I do a 4 second off cycle and with the fans going it keeps the coil cool enough. Keep the coils small, my .223 coil is a 300WM wrapped case size. My magnums are a towel rod that was just bigger than the cases. If the coils touch they just negate a coil and you lose efficacy. When the coils are sized right, you shouldn't have to run the annealer more than 2 seconds even for magnums, I'm under 1 second for my .223 brass, about 1.75 for .308. Don't worry about the white sheathing. I don't even use those coils, the wires are too thick. Takes too long. Thinner wire goes faster
Hello, Are you using two 3-prong extension cords? I see two black wires. Also are you able to post a picture or a description of all the electrical wiring? Much appreciated!!
@@northeasttexastactical375 thank you! One more question if you don’t mind...I see one white and one black wire coming out of the adaptor. What connector are you using to attach to the adaptor receptacle(the green and black receptacle). I hope my question makes sense. Thanks again.
I’m not that intense about this stuff. It’s a hobby and a passion for me. I appreciate people like you that are investing time and energy to make it better for all. Keep up the good work.
So is he cutting the prong end/male end of the extension cord and then stripping the wires? And then did he cut off the charge end of the ac/DC charge cord? I wish he showed what he did there in more depth.
Don't cut the end off. Just cut away the outer sheathing and only splice the black wire into the controller switch. You can cut off the charge end of the DC charger if you want. I just spliced it into a female connector that was attached to the switch.
@@northeasttexastactical375 wow, thanks. I think I understand now. So just to double check... are you plugging into the wall outlet both the extension cord and the charge cord powering the relay switch? So using two outlet sockets?
@@northeasttexastactical375 thanks much for the super quick replies. I'll be using your links. Last question, when the table fan is running, does it not mess up the heating coil temperatures and heat times?
It sounds like your coil is the wrong size. You might want to try more coils and wrapping them tighter. How long does it take to anneal each case? Because it takes me about two to three seconds.
Try a thinner gauge wire. I experimented with thick and thin wires and the thick wires just heated up the coil and took forever to heat the brass up. With thinner wire you'll be able to get 7 to 10 coils
It can "overheat" but it's got a auto shutoff that kicks it off until it cools. The number of cycles is dependent on how long it takes for each different cartridge. And that is dependent on the length and gauge of the coil used. My 223 I can do 50 easy in 5 or 6 minutes. If it does overheat, I stick the shop-vac hose on the tail end and suck a bunch of air through it for a minute and it's ready to go again
Worked with industrial induction heaters in the past. They kept the coils cool by making them from small dimension rectangular copper tubing and pumping distilled water through through it while it’s running. The wires are connected to each end of the coil and it’s electrically just like you have on your setup. Pure water is a pretty good insulator, and using about 8-10” of small diameter rubber tubing at each end of the tube turns the water in the tube into a long resistor with a low cross sectional area and therefore a high resistance. I remember seeing wires connected to a water cooling system totally blew my mind until I figured out how it worked…. Once a tube sprung a leak and a maintenance man simply shortened the hose to quickly get it back in service. He equipment didn’t work correctly and because we were not aware of the hose repair it took a while to figure out what the problem was.. I’ve got about a years worth of brass before I need to think about annealing, maybe I’ll set something up on my Dillon 650. It would be pretty easy.
I've been using propane with 'some' success meaning sub 1/2 MOA consistently from my 6.5 C and .223. This however would be more consistent and faster than what I'm doing. Thanks!!
So, I bought of these on ebay. Its the unit that comes in a black box with at least 3 coils. Unfortunately, this unit took too long to heat up brass. Nothing like the performance in the video? Mine turned on when plugged in. I wonder if the "older" ones are more powerful? Oh well. I returned it.
It has a lot to do with the length and thickness of the wire and how many coils. My "go-to" right now is about 12 or 14ga wire, no insulation, with about 7 tight coils, protruding about an inch from the unit. Heats my .260 in 1.9 seconds.
@@bginvestor101 yikes, I assume they are all made in China, you got a lemon. Or hell, maybe I just got a good one, no telling how many guys have made this thing now. I hope they're having the same success as I am with it.
Just got mine set up. You must have cut you coils? I ended up with 8 wraps on a 1/2” 1/4 drive extended socket and it’s perfect for short magnums and PRC at about 5.35 second.
I did cut the coils initially, but I ended up using a thinner wire with about 7 wraps around a 300WM case. The coil wraps are probably only an inch tall total because of how thin the wire is and its uninsulated. My .260 takes 1.9 seconds to anneal; I'd imagine I could do a PRC case in less than 3 sec. with the coil I'm using
Great Idea! I duplicated your work except I bought the Nearpow "infinite repeat cycle timer" off Amazon for $17 and saved the work of building a timer. Works great. I do 10sec on and 4 sec off for 308win
I plan on taking this a step further by making a mount for my press and activation on the up stroke.
That would be awesome, post a pic when you get it finished
Mclick, it’s been 8 months. Your public needs to hear how you did it.
@Mclick12B , lets go buddy,
Aaaaaany time now
ruclips.net/user/shortshLG31e8Vocs?feature=share something like this I just want to add a timer and a micro switch to activate the heater on the up stoke
I found this video last Summer when I was searching for an effective, yet affordable, way to anneal my brass. Watch the video, take your time assembling the different components, test it on a few rejects to get the timing and process dialled in and then get started! I decided on a stripped wire with a tight tolerance to reduce the duration of annealing. One of the most useful videos I’ve found on RUclips!
Greetings,
I constructed an annealer assembly using your idea with a similar unit but added a couple of convenience refinements. In lieu of using the push button all the time I installed a 3.5mm phono jack and plug. The jack receptacle is installed at the rear of the annealer and wired in parallel and soldered to the push button pins. The male plug is wired to the dry contacts of the timer so that when the dry contacts of the timer close it acts the same as pushing the button thus turning on the annealer. This allows the annealer to be used for other purposes and not dedicated to servicing brass. An on/off toggle switch was also installed on the cover of the timer case and wired in series with the “hot” conductor of the power cord so the timer can be turned off and on rather than having to unplug the timer from the power strip each time. The annealing unit came wired so the fan stays on all the time. On other units where the fan only comes on when the button is pushed the fan can be rewired to the annealer input power wires so that the fan stays on all the time. I have not had the annealer overheat as yet even when annealing a couple of hundred cases at a time.
I found that using #10 AWG solid wire took too long to heat up and cool down. I made some coils with #12 AWG solid wire and they seem to work better, reducing heating and cooling times. All in all everything works quite well and I believe is much safer than the propane torch or hot lead immersion methods. Good luck.
Could I talk you into building one like yours for cost od materials plus your profit
How is your setup working? I ended up doing something similar with the parallel timer. It worked great for my 1st session...~250 pcs of brass at 1.20s each. Next time I tried to use it, it died. Fan ran for about 30 seconds. The timer fired the coil twice and then it died...no light, no fan, no nothing. I can't seem to find a fuse it the thing. Any ideas what might have shorted or opened?
As everyone else has said, thank you Sir, great system, haven't built mine yet, but will soon. I shoot .45-70 and .40-65, those brass cases are rare items here in Canada. The prices of your system is higher in Canada but not anywhere near the price of the AMP. That annealer is $1950. here in Canada, so you have saved myself and many more people a lot of money, thank you. Dave & The Girls
I took your ideafurther by adding an ice cube relay to send power to initiate a signal to trigger theswitch. Ifound the annealer needs to run constantly to cool. In short, 2 cords from the same circuit,one to the controller, and one to the annealler. A cord from the controller goes to a coil that pushes the button, so the internal fan runs constantly.
That’s how I’m going to set mine up
Work in progress. Ordered all the parts. I didn't have any bullet boxes to spare so I used a cardboard factory loaded eldx box. Came out looking pretty good. I just wish we could post pics in the comments
Just put one of these together. Works great! The fan runs the entire time button pushed or not! Goodbye propane! I used a bullet box as well. Thanks for the vid.
The funny thing is seeing others copying this setup and posting videos of same. I built a twin to this and it works fine, once I figure out how to set the relay timer that is. That’s on me. I saw no reason to post a copy of work you’ve already done. Have recommended the setup to others as well. I DID get an aluminum block and had it CNC’d for 7mag cases. That eliminates the issue of overheating a plastic reloading tray. It was also cheaper and I had access to someone who did that free. This is the cheapest setup of all my reloading “toys”. Great concept and kudo’s to posting this.
It took a year to talk myself into trying it. But I finally did it. $240 and I just annealed my first set of brass. If anyone is handy enough to reload, then putting all this together is not that hard of a job.
Thank for the how to, I never would have come up with this on my own.
I just finished my build too with some improvement. I disassembled induction heater and jumped out 2 button wires and 2 12v fan wires by an old 4 wire usb cord. The fan wires connect directly to the dc power supply and button wires to the relay terminals. Then I put 12v power supply into the same control box. This way the fan is always on when plugged in and only a low voltage control signal goes through the relay.
That sounds clean!
Thank you so much! I am going to make one from basic components for my senior project for my EE degree. Glad to see people are doing this already. As a student I can never afford any nice reloading equipment and have had it in my mind to make this to save money for other things.
This is awesome. Thanks for sharing. It does appear though that it's heating the case to far down. Also another idea is to take what you've built and put it in a case. The with a perfectly aligned hole in the top just drop the brass in head down and wait for it to kick on and off, then just keep repeating. At that point it would be a matter of how fast you can remove one brass and insert another one. And since it will align perfectly you won't have to worry if the brass is touching the coil once you drop it in.
wow, that's just awesome!! came across the AMP annealer and it's +$1500 price. *cough* i'm a fan of DIY stuff AND saving money. this, sir is a WIN!
Outstanding. Works just like you say. I set mine up next to a single stage LEE Challenger and changed out the switch for the inductor so that I don't have to hold the button down. Control is through the relay with a locking on/off on the inductor. I raise the brass into the inductor coil and use a longer gap between cycles to give me time to swap the cases in the shell holder. I'm using it to anneal 24ga Magtec shotgun brass to form .577/450 Martini-Henry cases. Once I got the time dialed in I haven't ruined a case since, forming in 3 steps and annealing between each step. I'm not doing hundreds of cases (generally a box of 25), so the longer time isn't a big deal and the fan keeps up with the temperature well.
I built mine, have to fine tune the timer to the brass. It goes on then off like yours, so it works. Very fast.
Very cool, glad I could help.
Also I bought copper for this in a roll 99.?? Pure. I cut exactly a foot, might want to go 14/15” next time.
Also I found 4mm fiberglass sheathing on EBay.
Let us know how long the sheathing last or how it holds up.
Insulation Braided Sleeving, 33Ft-4mm High TEMP Fiberglass Sleeve White. This is the listing, going to be a millimeter larger so I can get it right the first time. I would rather it fit with all the wait.
The eBay high temp sleeve came and it’s fine
Thanks for sharing. I'll go this route and verify the temp with tempilaq and spend the other 1100.00 on other shooting equipment.
Don't waste your time. If you want to do induction annealing on a budge build the GinaErik DIY induction annealer.
@@jetthreat5000 that's twice the cost and you literally have to build it with a lot of components and it doesn't look as user friendly with caliber changes
@@cademarti1365 First off, you will blow the induction board on this since it isn’t water cooled as it is designed to be used in short periods and over and over a hundred plus times. Second, the DIY GinaErick induction annealer isn’t hard to build. Third, it’s stupid easy to switch between calibers.
@@jetthreat5000 I see several people made and use this but none saying theirs broke
@@jetthreat5000 where's the plans to build this other one?
Just finish building this and it works great! Thank you so much for the info and the savings! Excellent video and really easy to follow.
So how do you know when the case has been sufficiently annealed ?
Just finished mine. Rolled my coil for my '06 Springfield custom.
Glad I have plenty of range brass I really underestimate the power in my daylight bench.
Tonight I had it dark lit with my EDC led flashlight pointed at the creaking so would not run into anything bug.
Will adjust my timer at night and install a foot switch.
Coil is the ground wire in a piece of 10 4 w/ground romex.
Mandrel is 5/8 in birch dowel.
Thanks for a really great DIY annealer.
Great idea and great video! I hope you make money from us using the links to buy. -Cheers!
UPDATE: Note that some brass heats up MUCH faster than others. I thought something was wrong with my unit, until I tried another brand of cartridge and bam! It heated up just like the video. Slow heating is not a bad thing - it give you finer control over the result. Also, don't forget to cut the coil wire as short as possible, like in the video - it helps a lot.
I have a 0-150vac variac and I'm thinking I can do this very same thing using nichrome resistance wire. I like the timer so will incorporate that into the build. Up till now I just use the variac to make hot wires for cutting foam but have nichrome wire in sizes from .09 guitar string size to 3/16" heater coil. Will let you and all know how it works out.
I’m going to try to Mount this above my press and raise the case with the ram then when it shuts off lower ram and use a case kicker to kick the case into a baking pan. Then reload the shell holder
Hopefully my brass sticks out enough above the press
Thank you very much for sharing this information. This is by far the cheapest setup out there, and has the same degree of accuracy. You need an affiliate link to the items so you can get some kind of compensation for this information. Either way thanks for sharing this with the community.
It was tricky moving the decimal point on the the timer, but i figured it out, cept forgot how i did it
Technically all the coil 'turn' counts should be in 1/2 turn increments. When you make a full turn, the end wire is pointing in the wrong direction. You need both leads pointing in the same direction so you can attach them to the power source (heater). This is why the directions for making inductors by wrapping wire around a drill bit references 3.5 or 5.5 turns.
Thanks for the good advice! Us non-engineers would never have known this.
Gotta love that phrase, "Technically speaking", always comes from a "certain" kind of person 🤣🤣🤣
I’ve been contemplating taking on the challenge of building one of the several different diy annealers I’ve seen. . This one is hands down the best. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I will be building mine later this month and prepping Brass in December.
I've recommended this video to MANY people.
Great system. I used 8 gage copper wire and made my own coils by wrapping it around some tubing. I started with 5/8" I.D., and it took 9.5 seconds to get the .556 brass to glow. I then made another coil with a 1/2" I.D., and the heating time really decreased - 2.5 seconds to get the same glow. So by decreasing the I.D. by 1/8", the time to heat was about 1/4 of the time. BTW, I also saw that the 110-volt timers listed on Amazon don't go less than 1 second, so the 12-volt timer was necessary.
Good info, thanks!
@John Hagerman I built mine using the 110V timer. It skips having to use a secondary plug and cable to run the setup which for me is a big plus. I am more than pleased so far. I just got it completed yesterday. That said the wiring of the 110V unit was a PITA. It took a while because the instructions are worthless. I got it now though and it's fine.
Anyway this is the first I've seen anyone explaining the difference between the 12V vs 100V timers. Really though asking out of curiosity more than anything would being able to time below 1 second make a difference? I could easily convert mine for $12 but at first glance I don't see the need.
@@tyler6147 Actually I originally built it with the 120v unit before I found out it didn't do less than 1 second intervals, so I switched to the 12 volt. In my limited experience so far, I think the 1 second interval would be workable if the induction coil I.D. is larger, like I originally had with the 5/8" I.D. coil. Certainly using the smaller coil means that the timing is more critical due to the fast temperature rise - maybe that's not such a good thing. By making your own coils and experimenting with I.D. sizes, an operator could probably come up with a happy medium pretty quickly.
@@johnhagerman1465 That's exactly what was running through my head. Maybe play with the coils a bit and see what happens. I am using the coils that came in the pack (with the heat resistant stuff on them). I straightened them and rewound one of them to see how it works. I have three of them so I can possibly come up with an optimal diameter.
@@tyler6147 I bought 3 feet of 8 ga solid wire from a local (real) electrical supply shop for $5, so feel free to experiment as much as you want!
Thank you so much! I have wanted an induction annealer but just cant swing the AMP price tag!
Thanks for posting this option. I have listed my set up on E-Bay.
Just built mine and it works like a charm! Thanks for smart people like you figuring this sh*t out for all us dummies out there
I'm sure I'm missing something but am I correct that the white wire from the extension cord does not get hooked to the module? The white wire does not get cut.
Place the hand held induction heater on a drill(Hand drill) press stand to lower and raise to a set height, use a foot pedal/swich to start heater, place a U shaped aluminum channel as guide and drill case sized holes in a strip of wood or aluminum that will run in the guide under the heater coil, place water bucked under the end of guide so cases drop through hole. About the same as cartridge press, One hand to run the handle and the other to place the cases. Nock youself out if you want to automate. Same foot activated swich for a raise and lower hidraulic/pneumatic/electrical press stand
Thank you for this video. I just built this setup but put it in a box with a trapdoor. Mounted the hot rod in the box on all thread with hanger strap. Sloted the holes and added knobs so you can adjust your coil up and down. The all thread lets you adjust the left,right. If you pop the back off of the timer you'll see a connector labeled trigger. I soldered wires to the gnd and low signal terminals and ran them to a momentary pushbutton on the front of the box for a start pushbutton instead of using the one on the front of the timer. I'm using a 15a 24vdc power supply to feed the timer, solenoid, and some cooling fans. I ganged up two computer turbo looking fans to force air into the back of the hot rod so it has a continuous air flow instead of only running it's internal fan when the timer turns it on. There's a pretty good breeze coming out of the front of the hot rod. I have a timer relay that will auto activate the trapdoor with the annealer finishes. Getting the cases out of the coil asap may lessen the heat soaking into the coil. My first coil attempt was 12awg wrapped 7 times around a 10mm socket. It would do a 308 in 4 seconds. The second was 8 wraps around a 308 case for 556. It turns the case red in 1.5 seconds. I think I'll do a different .308 coil with 8 wraps around a 338L case to get more efficiency. Thank you NETT for this vid and your updates!
Yes! 7 wraps with 12awg wire anneals most of my cases in under 2 seconds. Love the upgrades! 👍
@@northeasttexastactical375 I present the Ghetto Ass Annealing Made Pretty Good 400.
ruclips.net/video/2i58FN0C9wA/видео.html
@@northeasttexastactical375 added one more fan inside the box that blows out through the coil access to cool off the coil. Works very well. 6.5 creed brass in 1.7 seconds.
Up too 800 6.5 cases through the annealer without issue. Figured out if you set the timer to a continuous loop with a 7 second delay you can just feed it cases without it getting hot. Currently looking at a pile of parts and electronics that will become a case feeder for it.
@@northeasttexastactical375 casefeeder code test. ruclips.net/video/p9OSeGtVa3g/видео.html
You can buy an induction heater kit off Amazon for $20 +/- I bought one of the larger ones with a water cooled coil and used a 48v 1000w PSU to drive it. It heats up a 1/2" bolt cherry red in a few seconds.
Didn’t see it...do you have a link or detailed description?
@@MrOffshore search induction heater on Amazon. There are a wide range of options depending on what you are doing
Hello Mr North. Just question for you or others reading. I bought everything and it works AWESOME. However, the induction heater I have works with the fan on all the time even when you don't press the red button. This is good to save the machine as you mentioned. However, when I put it on the timer relay the fan only works when the button is pressed. I think the relay cuts all the power off the heater. Is there a way to adjust the relay so that it still powers the fan ??? Or the work I did with the relay is just a continuous stop watch. PLS HELP!
I would imagine the 27 thumb downs were the product manufacturers that are pissed you made something better for way less and more consistency. getting the parts now thanks.
All 27 AMP owners..
I’m doing this for annealing
Awsome vid especially with the timer. Never know had such thing.
Silly me.
I have been putting as many cases as will fit in a Cake pan. Fill with water up to level I don't want to get hot. Then Broil till right glow is reached.
I might have to build one of these.
Thanks
Ohh goodness.... no... get you one of these. I've got a followup video in the works to clarify some stuff and share what I've learned the past year running it.
I like many who reload want to anneal our brass cases, but what method is cost-effective? The AMP isn't cost-effective by any means, but if you have the bread, buy it. The flame, yes leaves a question "did it do the job or not." The recoil method may be "I don't have a way to test my machine." Whatever method you are using, it may work to a degree to anneal brass cases. Eric Cortina and Vortex have videos on the subject saying with the flame method about 7/8 seconds. EP Integrations annealer is what I use. It is fast and simple!
Ive been using the salt method. Works but is a bit of a process. 2 min in to your video, You got me convinced to switch
I can't drop $1300 on a machine and didn't want the fidgety propane solutions that looked like you were basically guessing and very inconsistent. I looked up making an annealer and this is the first one I have seen that didn't require 500 steps and some sketchy circuit building. I may just pick the parts up, the big difference between this an AMP is they have the formulas and hardness tester, I'm thinking of just doing some range work where you anneal for X amount of time and go up a short amount, shoot, a bit more, shoot and grab the velocity and group size data to see where the peak accuracy comes from.
If you reduce the watts on the transformer output, the case would heat up a little slower and it would be easier to time the precise amount needed to get perfect results. As much as the $200 induction heater is significantly less expensive than the professional units, you can make one from a discarded microwave transformer very easily for under $80. It's not about saving $120, it's about getting a unit that is perfect for the job.
@@ronaldroberts7221 Huh, sounds interesting. I'll have to do some research on that.
@@InvestorAcademyPodca The transformer would only be for the power supply. Read the electricbike dot com article on making a resistance soldering unit and spot welder from a microwave transformer first, then here is the video I would use ruclips.net/video/YO_cYhV6eIM/видео.html
My timer never loops even though I am in P05 and loop count is 99. Also my timer never displays “out” like shown in the video. What am I doing wrong?
Making sure I understand your wiring.
You cut the extension cord so that hot wore is cut in two, but leave the ground and neutral?
The cord is plugged into the wall, and the hot wire goes to the relay. The relay outputs the hot wire to the end of the extension cable, in which the heater is plugged in to. The relay itself is powered by an ac/DC power supply.
Is that correct?
Yes
Thanks!
I bought the same parts that are in the video and went through some testing/adjusting to get the output time set to get just the right amount of "glow" to anneal brass. The problem I'm now encountering is that 4 days ago 3.9 seconds was exactly the right time needed..... Yesterday I got (using the same piece of 308 brass) more like 6.5 seconds as being the correct amount of heating time. Same deal with other calibers (using the same piece of brass of THAT caliber for testing/setup. I can't figure out why the time seems so wildly different. I've tried checking most everything---supply/source voltage and current, connections, etc., etc. I test in a darkened room so I can see pretty much exactly how much "glow" I'm getting in the brass....BUT why so much varying? I mean like nearly double or half the time! I'm now wondering if the timer is not turning on/off as indicated. Anyone else having that sort of issue?
Just a thought, but is the brass you’re annealing from the same manufacturer? i.e. Remington, Hornady, Lapua, Winchester, Norma, Alpha….? If the manufacturer is different, the timing will be different for each. I’ve noticed that on the expensive AMP machine, it requires you to input which brand of brass you’re annealing.
Just saw this, sorry. I will say you don't want to just keep annealing the same test piece, it does react differently if it's already annealed. And different brands definitely have different anneal times. Could be the depth of the coils on the case is different.
Bet I've come back and watched this video 6+ times. Even though I have the ANNEALEEZ 2.0 I still want one of these.
Just so much faster to set up and the speed at which it accomplishes the task is fascinating. I'm by no means a high volume shooter and the whole reloading process is therapeutic for me (I'm from the south so we don't do anything fast anyways). Must be the tinkerer inside of me. :-)
You'll love it, get ready to sell the Anal-eaze on eBay.
I'm confused as you seem to use different parts at different times. If I understand it correctly, the induction unit gets plugged into the power strip after it has been modified to attach to the timer. The extension cord gets attached to the timer and plugs into a wall outlet. Correct? There is no necessity for a wall wart at all.
Brilliant setup. Thanks for the video
Put mine together last night and with the way my coil is wound, I'm not sure I'm going to mess with the timer. I don't think it matters how far down the case your anneal goes as long as the neck and shoulder are fully annealed. (obviously you don't want to soften the case head or web). I just wound the coils using the coil winding mandrels that come with my Socket Set (8mm and 9mm mandrel as you did-- worked great!). It seems plenty effective to just heat until you see the first hint of glow, then release.
Funny that I’d get a notification of ETT liking my comment the same day I finished the timer build. It works great! My particular coil needs 1.4 seconds for a good anneal, but I’m pleased.
From 3:54 to 4:02 you are suddenly test voltage from a wire that came out of where?? 4:08 to 4:12 you have a switch that was not introduced so we're did it come from? What does it do?
I was just making sure the positive and negative wires were correct. That is just the 12v power supply I'm connecting to the module. Instead of stripping my 12v plug, I just have a female barrel plug adapter with those 2 wires coming out of it. You could literally just plug in 2 wires directly from a car battery and it would be the same thing.
This is one of the best annealing videos on RUclips (I've watched/re-watched several times), thanks!
I recently purchased the induction heater and a timer. One wrinkle though: while the heater looks identical, the interior fan runs constantly (which is probably good for cooling) once plugged in. I hesitate to disable this by using the timer to control power to the unit....but don't have a lot of great options. I'm not really interested in changing the internal wiring to exclusively power the heater from the timer..... I guess another option would be going the route of removing the case out the bottom, as the GinaErik design does-
Any thoughts or wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks again for the cost effective idea!
Glad you liked it. Ive seen guys who get the one with the fan on full time. Regardless, the induction unit will only have power when the relay allows it, so technically it shouldn't matter how the fan operates when plugged in normally because they will all operate the same when using the timer module. The only difference I see is when you aren't pushing the button the fan will still cycle on and off for the set amount of time due to the relay.
One work-around you can do is to have a short 'off' phase that is just long enough to transition onto or off of a case. Then hold the coil well above during 1-2 cycles without pressing the button that powers the coil so that the fan runs but the inductor does not. You could also just keep another fan blowing nearby, like the creator of this mentioned is good to do anyways.
@@ericstrabel4365 some units run the fan full time whether the button is on or off, so that would work. Mine only works when the button is pushed though.
@@northeasttexastactical375 ah, I gotcha
.
Got mine assembled and working last night. Thank for the informations.
I'm curious how much power (ex. how many amps) the device is drawing during the annealing cycle. I'm assuming the open circuit voltage on the output (where the induction coils connect) is a nominal 120 V.
Good for you. I am doing something about the same. I use copper tube and pump water through it. Never gets hot. Use a computer water cooling radaitor and fan.
I thought about upgrading to something like that, but it only takes 1 second, or actually like .92 seconds to anneal a case, so I can do 100 cases in about 6-7 minutes with a 3 second off cycle
Was fast and easy to put together. Works great! Thanks for the video.
The use of Tempilaq can help insure you get to 750 degrees and no more.
Ordered all parts today! I’m so excited about making this happen. Thanks for sharing!!
So my old soldering iron should do the same thing. Make coil press the trigger and
bam I got annealer. Ima try it. Got nothing to loose.
Yep, exactly 💯 ...so much cheaper too. Spin it up, let me know how it goes😐
5:01 to 5:08 "let's get this thing plugged in" ??? What are you plugging in. The extension cord, the power adaptor cord, or both??
That would be the power to the module, 12v or whatever DC voltage you're working with. I think it handles up to 48v DC.
Yes the AC wire diagram for the timer is wrong. It was drawn as if it was DC except they put the (+) on the wrong side of the load. To make it work you would splice an additional piece of wire into the cord's white(neutral), which would go to the timer's GND terminal. Then cut the black(hot) wire; split the male plug side into two wires, and connect one to VCC and one to S1. Finally, connect the black wire on the female plug side to SO. Leave the green wire uncut. This applies to the device in your first link.
Great video to provide such a low cost, clean, and result-consistent solution! Thank you Sir!
Just built and works great.
Finished putting the pieces of mine together today. Disassembled the heater so I’m using the time to just control the switch. The fan runs continuously on the heater and it stays nice and cool. 1.5 on and 4 seconds off is just right for the coil I made to use on 38 special brass.
I ordered some 3mm fiberglass braiding with my timer and used 8 gauge copper for my coil. Stayed nice and cool
Just completed mine. I used a stock coil that fits great over my brass. To pick the cycle time I watched the brass turn gray and creep down the neck and about 3/8" passed the shoulder. The case never glowed. I believe that should work nicely. It took 19 seconds for reference... I was quite surprised it took that long but Im ok with it. I can't see spending $1400 on the AMP when this appears to do the same job with great repeatability. Thank you very much for sharing!!!
You can speed that time up by wrapping more coils tighter around the case.
@@northeasttexastactical375 Thank you, I saw thats what you did and read some comments. I'll pick up some wire and give it a shot. Again, thanks for sharing. Great and simple DIY.
How do you know your annealing temperature....Annealing Made Perfect show that for a .223 case flash annealing to 1000F took 3.4 seconds. Each case head stamp and caliber requried a specific temperature/time for flash annealing...time is easy to measure...how do you know your temperature is high enough for complete annealing?
That may be their time with their standard size coil that is the same size regardless of size of case being annealed. Here, you can custom size your coil to anneal much much faster. If you go 3.4 seconds with this rig you'll completely melt a case. There is templaque you can use or use a brass glow color chart to get the right color of red glow. There seems to be quite a big gap from perfectly annealed to over annealed, and it's been working great for me. Just had a 5rd group with my .260 with a 1.6 SD. Check it out on our facebook.
Hallo... wow looks great
But how have u conected the timer with the annealing machine?
Or U controll just the energy current, with the timer?
My english is not the best!!!
Preise explain it,...
Greetings from Germany
There are no modifications to the annealer, it is just plugged into the power strip. The timer is what controls the circuit on the power strip. So you could technically put anything on a timer that's plugged into the power strip.
@@northeasttexastactical375 thank you so much... Great
How does this device handle the collapsing field feedback, as in auto calibrates itself?
I'm really impressed by the heating time !!!
Thanks, this is reloading's best kept secret.
Thanks for checking. The wire that comes with the kit is 10ga. Have you ever tried 5 five coils of it? Or do you think that it will make it take longer? So have you settled on 12ga? How do you insulate it? Is wire available with that white braided insulation? Thank you. Mike
I haven't tried 5 coils of the 10ga wire that came with it. I think it would take longer and it would heat more of the case than I need. I don't insulate the 12ga wire I use, it's just bare wire. Just make sure the coils aren't touching or you effectively "short out" the coil in between. I used my 12ga, 5 coil wire on a piece of 300WM brass and it took a little under 3 seconds to over anneal it. Ive used the 12ga unprotected wire exclusively since making the video and I love the speed i'm getting from it.
That sounds good. I’ll give it a try. Mike
@@mikeortho1 id try 5 coils of the 12ga bare wire and just space out the coils enough to get the coverage you need on the bigger cases.
I thought I was ready to go and I now see that the timer I ordered ( I wanted a 110V model) only goes to 1 second intervals. After searching all day, I can't seem to find a 110V timer that goes to 0.1 or 0.01 seconds. I may have to reconsider a 12V model. I was trying not to used a transformer. If I end up going to a 12V model, can I use a small transformer or do I need one from a laptop, etc? Thanks again for your help. Mike
@@mikeortho1 You can use any DC inverter, I just had an extra laptop charger laying around. You can get the one in the link in the description from Amazon as well
I was looking at the gas machines i dont like the fuel running out idea. I do like the induction idea but as you realized and said its quite spendy. I like this idea. BRILLIANT! Thank you! I just subscribed
Why do we only anneal the neck and not the whole case?
Confused on your wiring setup. You don't show a few steps. It seems that you have stripped two WHITE cables: one is the 3-prong power cord, what is the other white cable? Also you seem to have an adaptor to connect the ac/dc converter to timer?
2 quick questions: what temp were you shooting for to be annealed? Where did you find the brass glow color chart? I’ve looked but can’t find one.
Really like the idea of induction heating, but I've been trying to think of a way to incorporate a case feeder, so the case drops down into the induction heater.
Thank you! Just bought…. I repair things that get rusted together randomly… this will be a great 2 for one…
Very nice!!
When the cases overhead, do they all melt in the same spot? Facing the unit like that? That may indicate a lack of uniformity in the annealing. Not sure you care, but you could spin them while they're heating to avoid that.
you will never hold it right in the middle perfectly with this setup and i bet you will never notice the difference either
i bought the same relay controller but the options on p5 are in minutes, not hundredths of a second. how do i get it to hundredths of seconds?
P5 isn't the time increments, it's the on/off programming cycle. I can't find my instruction sheet but it's on there, whenever you toggle it, the decimal will move across the zeroes.
@@northeasttexastactical375 I couldn't find any way to toggle the decimal place. I just annealed my 80 cases without the relay and just counted second
This is the best Idea I have seen to date on this topic. Add in the comment from Mclick12B and your set. Thanks for the inspiration.
Have you ever considered a water cooled coil? Thanks, it's great
I have not. I've had a bit more time behind this thing now and I can keep it cool enough with the table fan to run about 100rds in 15-20 minutes. Definitely long enough to get some work done.
@@northeasttexastactical375
Hi. I'm making progress on my annealer using the same handheld unit as you. Thanks again for sharing your project. I see you're using 4 windings in your coil, did you ever try 5? Some of the cases I'll be annealing will be 30 cal magnums and I'm wondering how it might work with 5 coils? Do you think it would take more or less time to anneal a case. Do you think the unit can handle 5 coils? Thanks for any insight that you may share. Mike
No open flame means added safety. Very cool.
How many cases are you getting, or averaging, per coil? Example: Let’s say you’re doing .223/5,56 cases. How many cases are you getting done before a coil burns out?
Same question for, say, .308 cases? Or any other cases you have/may have done if you haven’t used it on .308?
Is there a way to maybe adjust the output of the conductor itself?
And when you make your own coils, what are you using to wrap the wire your making the coil out of to get them nice and round? I can see a .50 caliber casing for like the .223/5.56 brass. Or a flashlight barrel maybe.
As for making sure the coils don’t touch, what happens if they do? And how or why does the matter when the coils are a part of the same wire? Or is it that not having them touch simply makes it conduct better?
Lastly, the material around the coils looks like it’s that same stuff I see wrapped around wires inside of like toaster ovens and other electronics where heat is conducted. Is that what it is, a white non burning or flame/heat resistant cloth material? If so, you can take old stuff apart and get more. 😬
Thanks in advance.
I haven't burnt out a coil yet. I don't let it get hot enough. I do a 4 second off cycle and with the fans going it keeps the coil cool enough. Keep the coils small, my .223 coil is a 300WM wrapped case size. My magnums are a towel rod that was just bigger than the cases.
If the coils touch they just negate a coil and you lose efficacy. When the coils are sized right, you shouldn't have to run the annealer more than 2 seconds even for magnums, I'm under 1 second for my .223 brass, about 1.75 for .308.
Don't worry about the white sheathing. I don't even use those coils, the wires are too thick. Takes too long. Thinner wire goes faster
Hello,
Are you using two 3-prong extension cords? I see two black wires. Also are you able to post a picture or a description of all the electrical wiring? Much appreciated!!
Just one extension cord, the black wire is just cut and both cut ends are inserted into the controller
@@northeasttexastactical375 thank you! One more question if you don’t mind...I see one white and one black wire coming out of the adaptor. What connector are you using to attach to the adaptor receptacle(the green and black receptacle). I hope my question makes sense. Thanks again.
Disregard please. I see how now. Thanks
what is the temperature that the inductor and shells get to?
699.8 Kelvin
@@northeasttexastactical375 thanks!! wow i think that's 800*F which is about what i want for annealing!!! thanks again!
Already have the AMP, but this is pretty awesome. Nice job.
The first AMP owner who didn't take it as an assault on his character! Very nice! Glad you liked it.
I’m not that intense about this stuff. It’s a hobby and a passion for me. I appreciate people like you that are investing time and energy to make it better for all. Keep up the good work.
@@northeasttexastactical375 i'm sure the AMP guy took a boat load of crap from the torch guys at first!
So is he cutting the prong end/male end of the extension cord and then stripping the wires? And then did he cut off the charge end of the ac/DC charge cord? I wish he showed what he did there in more depth.
Don't cut the end off. Just cut away the outer sheathing and only splice the black wire into the controller switch. You can cut off the charge end of the DC charger if you want. I just spliced it into a female connector that was attached to the switch.
@@northeasttexastactical375 wow, thanks. I think I understand now. So just to double check... are you plugging into the wall outlet both the extension cord and the charge cord powering the relay switch? So using two outlet sockets?
@@livetooextreme yes, one powers the timer, the other powers the heater.
@@northeasttexastactical375 thanks much for the super quick replies. I'll be using your links. Last question, when the table fan is running, does it not mess up the heating coil temperatures and heat times?
@@livetooextreme not at all.
I can only do about 10 cases and the coil is glowing red hot .If i do much more the unit shuts down till it can cool off which takes along time .
It sounds like your coil is the wrong size. You might want to try more coils and wrapping them tighter. How long does it take to anneal each case? Because it takes me about two to three seconds.
@@northeasttexastactical375 4 coils and the diameter will touch the body diameter of 6.5 Creedmoor tight spacing . 4 to 5 seconds .
Try a thinner gauge wire. I experimented with thick and thin wires and the thick wires just heated up the coil and took forever to heat the brass up. With thinner wire you'll be able to get 7 to 10 coils
@@northeasttexastactical375 Ok ,i will try that ,thanks
What is the relay that’s plugged into the DC power cord to wire into switch?
You can direct wire it, I just used quick disconnects.
Any cap on the number of cycles or if you will have to replace the coil?
It can "overheat" but it's got a auto shutoff that kicks it off until it cools. The number of cycles is dependent on how long it takes for each different cartridge. And that is dependent on the length and gauge of the coil used. My 223 I can do 50 easy in 5 or 6 minutes. If it does overheat, I stick the shop-vac hose on the tail end and suck a bunch of air through it for a minute and it's ready to go again
so do u plug the dc box into the extension cord? and the plug in for the heater goes where? on the extension cord or the wall?
Worked with industrial induction heaters in the past. They kept the coils cool by making them from small dimension rectangular copper tubing and pumping distilled water through through it while it’s running. The wires are connected to each end of the coil and it’s electrically just like you have on your setup. Pure water is a pretty good insulator, and using about 8-10” of small diameter rubber tubing at each end of the tube turns the water in the tube into a long resistor with a low cross sectional area and therefore a high resistance. I remember seeing wires connected to a water cooling system totally blew my mind until I figured out how it worked…. Once a tube sprung a leak and a maintenance man simply shortened the hose to quickly get it back in service. He equipment didn’t work correctly and because we were not aware of the hose repair it took a while to figure out what the problem was.. I’ve got about a years worth of brass before I need to think about annealing, maybe I’ll set something up on my Dillon 650. It would be pretty easy.
I've been using propane with 'some' success meaning sub 1/2 MOA consistently from my 6.5 C and .223. This however would be more consistent and faster than what I'm doing. Thanks!!
Need to hurry up and build one. Awesome video.
So, I bought of these on ebay. Its the unit that comes in a black box with at least 3 coils. Unfortunately, this unit took too long to heat up brass. Nothing like the performance in the video? Mine turned on when plugged in. I wonder if the "older" ones are more powerful? Oh well. I returned it.
It has a lot to do with the length and thickness of the wire and how many coils. My "go-to" right now is about 12 or 14ga wire, no insulation, with about 7 tight coils, protruding about an inch from the unit. Heats my .260 in 1.9 seconds.
@@northeasttexastactical375 yes, I understand. I've studied this. I feel this unit was under powered based on the coil and brass size.
@@northeasttexastactical375 it was taking 15 to 16 seconds..
@@bginvestor101 yikes, I assume they are all made in China, you got a lemon. Or hell, maybe I just got a good one, no telling how many guys have made this thing now. I hope they're having the same success as I am with it.
I knew I was in the right place when you broke out the Berger bullet box. 😉
Just got mine set up. You must have cut you coils? I ended up with 8 wraps on a 1/2” 1/4 drive extended socket and it’s perfect for short magnums and PRC at about 5.35 second.
I did cut the coils initially, but I ended up using a thinner wire with about 7 wraps around a 300WM case. The coil wraps are probably only an inch tall total because of how thin the wire is and its uninsulated. My .260 takes 1.9 seconds to anneal; I'd imagine I could do a PRC case in less than 3 sec. with the coil I'm using
@@northeasttexastactical375 so shorter wires heat up quicker I assume? It would make sense but just want to verify.
Shorter and thinner, yes
Just thought of this. You could powder coat the wire at the coil point to make sure they don’t touch each other
The wire gets glowing hot as well after prolonged use. That would stink up your house in a hurry
Great Idea! I duplicated your work except I bought the Nearpow "infinite repeat cycle timer" off Amazon for $17 and saved the work of building a timer. Works great. I do 10sec on and 4 sec off for 308win
10 seconds it's a bit long, change up your coil and get that down to under 2 seconds per case.
Have you considered a multi coil ? Do 4 to 6 cases at a time
I did consider it and I tried it, it's in the follow-up video to this one