Handloading PART VI, How to Measure Cartridge Overall Length ~ GunBlue's Complete Guide
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Learn how to easily and accurately measure your cartridge overall length with only Scotch tape and your calipers, without any need for expensive gauges, adapters, and complicated procedures! GunBlue will give you all you need to know about correct distances from the rifling, so that you can have the most accurate and reliable ammo possible.
learned more about my craft in 38 minutes by watching your video than the previous 60+ years I have reloaded.
Thank you sir
that method of measureing is the slickest i have ever heard of. Hornady must hate you.
I tried watching this video about 5 times and then realized I need to take notes. Keep dropping knowledge it's appreciated 😃
😂. I have to do the same. I've I've been a meticulous note-taker for over 30 years because my memory just isn't enough to get through things that matter to me and I find when I take notes, the act of doing it helps get the content ingrained in my mind.
7x
Ii
Sir, there‘s nobody on the internet more knowledgeable about these things than you are.
At least I haven‘t found anybody.
i would like to say what a tremendous honor it is to be on the receiving end of such invaluable knowledge.thank you .my father recently passed away and one thing he always wanted to do was learn how to reload. he knew a lot about firearms (i did not realize what a lot was until i found your channel) and he taught me everything i know .but you have taken it far and beyond . it would make him proud and at ease to know that i have been studying all of your videos for over two weeks now .i would like to know the materials your vice is made up of .thanks again. YOU ARE ONE OF A KIND GOLDEN . I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS GUY.
I am sorry for your loss. Losing my dad was very lonely experience because we did so much together, often in the outdoors. I am green when it comes to handloading for accuracy too. All of the Captains videos about the subject are the best I have found. I just feel like many of the other guys out there who showcase hardware, do the videos for personal profit. I don't mind that at all, but I would prefer they mention that they are. The captain truly wants to pass on his experience that is his gift and our reward. We are lucky to be able to learn it! This is valuable stuff!
@@Jeff_Seely I look forward with great anticipation to watching mr blue . It's going to be great when he tells some of the spicy stories . I've been hand loading ever since the stupid shortage happened . I can proudly say I got some of the last primers that were 50 - 60 bucks with haz mat fee . The first time I bought some I bought a hundred from midway for 5 bucks . I just bought a 1000 brick for 99 bucks plus haz mat . I was nervous at first but after you get over the initial blow your self up thing by devolping a system with all the checks and balances to ensure safety the rest just fell into place . I don't load hot loads or push limits because I don't want to use more components than I have to . I did not start hand loading for development . I started out of necessity. Sure I have made some mistakes . Sure God was watching out for me a couple of times . I don't msg dump and I don't shoot every weekend . Since it is a two hour drive to my spot. I take my time and enjoy the fruits of my labor . I wish my dad could enjoy it with me . But I'm sure he occupied trying to convince God to smite psycho democrats .
Psycho Democrats indeed. They've justify themselves in some of the most backwards notions and are fundamentally flawed simply because they've turned their backs on the Lord and have not kept God's statutes. The Isrealites constantly lived among these types and they did well when they kept God's statutes and thy suffered when they did not. We have to keep God's statutes and stay prayed up among these folks. God wont forsake us if we put God first! God commands us to love them but not their ways! My way of loving them is to tell them what is right. Tell them about the gosphel and let them decide how they conduct themselves. I am enjoying reloading. It is a great way of putting 100% of my mind on something. I am a programmer and my mind is constanly on code developement to the point where I just need to train myself away or I get weary. If I clean the house, my mind is still code. If I am paying bills, still on code. But while reloading, my mind is on safely measuring powder and seating primers. I use Captain's tools and methods and my rounds have already surpassed Hornady factory match ammo, in terms of accuracy. I watch Captain again and again on shooting instruction and he helps me with that too.
@@Jeff_Seely THANKS JEFF . ITS PROBABLY FOR THE BETTER BECAUSE MY FATHER COULD NOT STAND SOCIALISTS AND IF HE WERE STILL ALIVE HE PROBABLY WOULD HAVE HAD TO DISPATCH A FEW THEN I WOULD HAVE HAD TO HELP HIM ON THE LANB AND THAT WOULD HAVE TOTALLY INTERFERED WITH MY LOAD PROGRESSIONS .
Many Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I have been reloading for 30 years & am always picking up new information from you. As the old saying goes “you are never too old to learn”!
Thank you for the tip. I flipped the order of the two measurements to avoid pulling tape into my barrel. Worked like a charm.
So many people misunderstand this "engaged measurement" *and unnecessarily risk damaging their rifles. Once you know this measurement for that specific bullet just back the number down .015 to .030 and compare it with the saami recommendation..mostly make sure the cartridges still "rack in and out " of magazine..thank you again sir it's the easiest most straight forward method!
I don't push the limits I stay right in the middle so if by chance I'm off by a grain either way I'm still within the parameters of safety .
Thank you so much, very well done, taught an old dog a new trick, just getting into rifle reloading appreciate the common sense no BS information, learned more in this video than all the rest I have watched and will not cost me a thing.
You taught me three important lessons here : I've seen a purchasable tool which I believe I viewed on Gunwerks utilizing this concept but making use of clamps in leui of tape. The optimal bullet seating as well as utilizing at least the caliber as an anchor I did not know either.
God bless you for sharing this with the community!
This is genius. I have broke 3 Hornady gauges gently having the brass stick an wiggling the gauge trying to extract. I did 4 different bullets for testing in minutes. So thank you, and God bless.
Gun Blue, Hello from Florida, you do a great job at explaining a very complicated process to someone who knows nothing......thank you Bob
Hands-down, you are the most pragmatic and one of the most experienced instructors, from which I've ever learned. I was just about to spend in excess of $100 dollars for the tools to do these tasks. I think that even if I had those specialty tools in my reloading tool kit, that I would leave them laying there and do OAL measurements this way. A million thanks for these videos! God bless!
You are the go to guy on all my reloading knowledge 👍
Wish I had viewed this video before i went out and spent all that money on a bunch of items I didn't really need!.Your remarks on the incremental tolerances is invaluable. I appreciate your videos because they are creating a new picture of understanding for me. Thanks for telling it like it is. Much appreciated!
I am about the same age as you and have been shooting and hunting from the age of 7. I thought I knew a lot about guns until I started following your videos. You sir have probably forgotten more then I knew. I appreciate your knowledge and your willingness to share it.......God bless.
Just now seeing this - fantastic video - PRACTICAL aspect of the topic - well illuminated so even a cave man can understand it. Thank you.
Your doing a great service for all the gun communities around the world. A big thank you from Canada!
Thank you. This answered so many questions for me. I'll be watching this again and again.
I tried this out, and to be honest, it is very difficult to measure accurately. I’m sure it is fine for getting a rough usable COAL, but from a precision standpoint, it has multiple levels of crudeness that add up to large variances. The rod doesn’t exactly fill the barrel, so it will be at some angle when applying tape. The use of flexible tape is an obvious problem, and then measuring the tape with calipers was giving me + / - 10 thousandths depending how I looked at it, not to mention that using the calipers as you show has them at an angle, which degrades the measurements. But again, probably accurate enough to stay away from the rifling.
I compared this method to my simple one: I have a once-fired case that I neck-sized, and then cut a thin slot in the neck. It holds a bullet tight enough that I have to get a good grip and yank it out. I stick it in too long, and chamber it. I then eject it and measure the length. When I tried the method in this video, I repeated it entirely several times, and got large variances. With my method, I get the same result every time, down to the thousandth.
Also, there are good points here made about buying a bunch of stuff that isn’t necessary. I do, however, like to measure cartridge length from the ogive with a comparator. The tip is the weakest part of a bullet, and is the part most likely to vary from one to the next in the same box.
BTW, did I thank you for this video ? Novices like myself really appreciate your videos.
Best reloading instructor on youtube, ive been looking to advance my reloading. Thankyou for the help.
Well done. Common sense approach! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I literally had all the Hornady stuff in my cart to do this. Came to many Canadian pesos. This is awesome. Thank you.
A lot of simple facts and truths very well explained! I would love to have a few beers and discuss reloading. An excellent video that really drove home sensible facts. Very helpful!
GunBlue, greetings from Tennessee. I have been loading for 25+ years and find there is always something to learn. I love your videos and how your discussion is like you are talking to an old friend. I really like the tape method of length determination and see how this will work perfect with hollow point or match type bullet or the newer polymer tip bullets . Lead tip or soft point bullets can get deformed and I suppose carefully choosing one that appears pristine needs to be done. Your knowledge is immense and thanks for sharing!!!
George1mac
I've never found it to be that critical.
That is something that got on my mind as well. I have bullets here from Nosler and hornady with those plastic tips that can vary 0.010 from each other. Is that difference negligible?
@@artsandclouds probably if you maintain 0.030 inch leade.
I know that it been a long time since you made this video but this is exactly the video I was looking for! the whole series! Thank you very much sir!
"Won't you be, won't you be, won't you be my neighbor", I would be a pain in the neck, endless questions aimed at your endless wealth of knowledge.
I used to grab an empty case & insert a bullet lightly engaged into the neck so the ogive engages into the rifling when the bolt is closed. The measurement of the round is my overall length minus 15>30 thou. Doublecheck with match soot on ogive on bullet when bolt closed & extracted that there is no rifling marks on the bullet ogive. That was a while back as I no longer reload or hunt with centre fires. Only .22 left for grandkids training. Guys like you got me into reloading & accurate rounds. Nick Harvey my hero in Au. Be safe always.
Good morning again Sir. I'm enjoying your videos now with my morning coffee. Me being very cautious and particular about things being correct; this video series is answering many questions and very informative. I'm a new subscriber and had not viewed these yet when I asked a question earlier this week. I really appreciated you taking the time to answer it in such detail anyway. Thank you.
I successfully used this method to make some starting loads for a new .270 this evening. Very simple and clever. Thank you.
Just purchased a reloading kits, watching all videos with extreme interest. Keep up the good work!!
I am in the same situation. Just got back in to reloading after 35 years. This information is in depth and well presented . Thank you very much GunBlue490
I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge. Have learned so much from you.
Thank you for putting your knowledge out here for everyone to learn from. I literally just purchased the Hornady OAL gauge set and then I just happened upon this video. Now I am going to try both and see how close they are to one another lol. Thanks again GunBlue490.
well then . as it turns out. i just learned something from you today. Thank you for educating some of us. i guess i dont know everything yet . hahahahha. your time sir. was not wasted .thank you for taking the time.
Very good explanation how you need to allow the bullet to ramp up to speed before the olgive to engage the rifling .
Much easier on the rifling , God Bless , saves me buying barrels and expensive gauges and tools .
Its an education watching these videos, so much important information, a legend
Excellent instruction and with no fancy equipment. I love it! 😆
Thank you for the explanation of bullet _specific_ COLA! I've focused on the SAAMI specifications in the past and wondered why I ran into problems!
Very educational and on point to educate reloaders safely !
These videos are so helpful and understandable,thanks for sharing
I love this guy!!
As new reloader I find is video's to be a godsend!!
I love this guy..wise calm and interesting full of knowledge..thanks for all your videos..i just bought Lee's reloading kit but csnt find primers right now so I'll just be over here measuring everything lol
I size the neck just enough to hold the bullet then l just gently chamber it.When l pull it out l know where the lands are. Am l making sense?. It works for me👍Thanks for the educational vids.
Greets from Canada
This answers the most confusing part of reloading for me thanks
Just tried this. Very good way to measure the COAL. I was using the bullet in the case and close the bolt method, but was getting inconsistent readings on a berger vld bullet. Tried your method and is much more consistent. A variation to the tape method I found is you can place a bore guide (or a something as a reference) on the rod and measure from muzzle to the bore guide, zero your calipers with a closed bolt the put the bullet in measure with the calipers from the muzzle to bore guide again this will give the correct reading displayed the calipers.
Thanks Gunblue, Love watching your videos all the way from Australia.
Frankford arsenal has an OAL measuring device(clamps and rod tip)that works from the muzzle. It is more simple than using the modified case(Hornady). Certainly both devices are less crude than marking bullet with a sharpie.
My husband has used nothing but the Hornady 180 gr. Interlock flat base. Accurate and effective on game.
how does this man know so much???!! amazing!!
Thank you for sharing your deep knowledge!
Awesome directions
Another similar method I use is to size a brass rod roughly 1in shy of the muzzle closest to the dia of the bore to contact the bullet tip. With the tail of the caliper use as a depth mike and record the reading. Remove the bullet and install the bolt with firing pin retracted and record the reading. Subtract the values and that is the number you are looking for. In my 22-250 savage with a sierra 55 gr spitzer my max is 2.468.
Somebody else who likes the 257 Roberts, YES!! ;-)
I'm a member of that "cult" two times over.
Well theres at least 3 of you! I jest, im sure its a decent cartridge, ive not researched it myself so i cant really comment.
Phil Ward love the 257 Bob. It’s making a comeback for sure. I enjoy loading for it
Sir, I've watched your video and it was very helpful. My rifle is Rem 783 in 308 cal. I measured COL using your method and got 2.905 in. Then I've used a loose bullet method and got 2.9165. I figured the higher number is due to bullet pull back by rifling. Anyhow, I figured 2.905 is closer to the truth. According to your advice, the optimal cartridge length for my rifle would be between 2.890 and 2.875. Here is my challenge. I am using Hornady SST 165 gr bullet. The boat tail length is roughly 0.1545 and the overall bullet length is 1.2785 If I add a minimum 0.308 to account for "contact length" there may be only 0.816 in of bullet sticking out from the brass. My brass is 2.009 in, so maximum round length would be 2.825 in. That is far away from optimal length of 2.890 - 2.875. It sounds like I need a long, non-boat tale flat base bullet. Can you think of any good choices? In your opinion, do I have an unusually long chamber for this caliber?
Oleksandr Ananiev
Commercial 308 Winchester chambers are throated long enough to accept commonly used 180 grain flat base bullets, with clearance to the rifling. Factory ammo is typically made to shorter OAL than can be achieved by the handloader for a given cartridge, due to this generous chambering. I don't know if your bullets are slender target styles, or boat tail hunting bullets with shorter profiles. 165 grain bullets with boat tails have very short shanks that don't leave much latitude for adjustments inside the neck, fore and aft, if you wish to have full contact with the case of 308. That's quite true of a great many calibers, and very few can be loaded ideally. I can't reach anywhere close to optimal overall length with 50 grain boat tail bullets in my new 222 Remington, but those bullets shoot 1/3rd of an inch groups routinely. Same for 75 or 87 grain bullets in my 257 Roberts, which shoots half inch or less. First of all, unless you are shooting beyond 400 yards, there is no practical point in using boat tails. Flat base bullets are generally more accurate anyway, and boat tails only extend trajectory and resist wind drift over extended ranges. Secondly, slight compromises can certainly be made without loss of bullet seating strength. After all, the 300 Win Mag seats only .264, and the old 300 Savage got by with only .221 contact, which is less than optimal for .224 bullets! I would feel entirely comfortable within those bounds, unless you are using the ammo under strenuous conditions or in a hard cycling gun. Never allow a bullet shank to sink below the case neck where the ogive is buried. As for hunting profiles, most 165 grain boat tail bullets have almost identical shank length as their 150 grain flat base counterparts of the same brand, and the 150 grain bullet with the 308 is bread and butter, so a hunting profile 165 grain bullet should seat with decent overall length, and will be reasonably close to the lands, even if not within .030 inch.
Another method is to cut a slot in the neck of a piece of brass (preferably one that’s already bad) after you run it through a resizing die so it will put light tension on a bullet and just start a bullet in the neck then seat the dummy round, remove it, measure it and subtract 15-30 thousandths and you have your max COAL for that bullet and a reusable tool to use with other bullets
AND to double check your measurements. Take the measurement from the outsides of the tape and deduct the thickness of one of the tapes and it should be the same as your value 2.930. (just a checking procedure/ call me goofy) I've yet to measure my new 6.5 CM Tikka but this is on the agenda.
Gunblue, I have never heard of this method but was looking for an answer for obtaining oal as I had recently had a discussion about a problem I had with maintaining the oal of my cartridges on my T-mag. I had noticed a few years back that my cartridges varied a few thousand and I believed it was from the flex of my turrent plate fit. this lead to a discussion about gaining the proper oal in the first place, the gauge you mention was what two folks were quick to endorse even though I couldn't see how that gauge would work having never even seen one or heard of them. the method I was taught was to seat a bullet in just a little and load it up so the lands pushed the bullet into the case, eject it and measure and set your die in about .002 -.010 I'm hearing what you are saying so i think I'm going to set it a factory spec. and see how that works. But is the method I was taught a bad method?
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge with us, it's nice to hear a voice of wisdom and reason amidst the static.
I would like to ask you a question- I continue to use my original RCBS powder measure from 1982, my question to you is how or do you clean your powder measure? I wipe out the interior but that's it. The reason I'm asking is that recently I noticed that the adjustments are getting stiffer.
Thank again for a job well done
Thanks again! 2nd time around for me. What great information.
Firstly, thank you for this great video as well as all of the others you have made. I always measure the chamber length of my rifles using your method of utilizing a cleaning rod and tape method. Just for the heck of it and to compare my measurements with something different I purchased the $12.00 Frankford OAL length gauge. It actually uses the identical method that you have shown the Frankford use's 2- plastic clamps instead of using tape. I measured the chamber in my Savage .223 today using both methods. I measured each way 5- times and for some odd reason each and every time I got measurements with the Frankford that are exactly .010" longer than when using tape. This is very perplexing and I can not figure out for the life of me why the Frankford is measuring .010 longer than when using tape because both methods of measuring are identical. The only reason that makes sense is that the Frankford clamps are not exactly symmetrical thus the difference of 10 one thousands of an inch. I know that the tape is being applied parallel and therefore should be symmetrical. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I supposed that is why the gauge is only $12.00!
Thank you for these lessons. Very much appriecated
I have found your posts to be really informative.👍
Mr GunBlue490....You rock! Thanks so much!
21:30 Perhaps another visual aid for the bullet engaging the rifling would be two nested funnels.
@22min it starts. Thanks for the vid
Like before I watch cause I know your info is always good and well explained, thank you Sir
RE: 222 Remington..Speer 50 gr. Sp: After I insert the case and the bullet into the chamber/ rifling, I remove the case and OAL gage. The OAL plunger is at, or slightly beyond the case neck…This also occurs with other bullet brands and grains.
I'm not sure what you are referring to. I didn't speak of using an OAL gauge or plunger. I don't know what you mean by the OAL plunger being at or slightly beyond the case neck. Most rifle chamber throats are cut to permit the longest bullets in a given caliber, which means that lighter, shorter bullets will not reach the rifling when the bullet is properly seated one caliber deep into the neck, but most shoot perfectly fine, and can achieve excellent accuracy, even if seated very far back from the rifling.
again , master at his best
A local gunsmith uses the “Macaroni Method”, as he call it. He squeezes soft Velveeta cheese down a warm barrel, chills the barrel to solidify the cheese, then pops it out with an air compressor.
so I took a fired cased, put in my resizing die and just nudged a little crimp. Then I drilled out the primer pocket after (knocking out the primer) to fit a cleaning rod through it. With the light crimp I could push a bullet into the case that lightly held it. I dropped the case and bullet into the chamber. I took the handle end of my cleaning rod and pushed it through the primer pocket hole and lightly tapped the bullet out into the lands. I then inserted the bolt and cycled the bolt the to make it chambered okay and ejecteed the bullet. That gave me an overall length measurement to work back from. I'll keep the drilled out case to reuse for any bullet weight for that caliber and reuse it.
That will certainly work, but allow me to make a suggestion on the dummy round theme, which will greatly simplify matters. It's a very fast process I use quite often as an alternative to the taped rod, and it is used by many veteran handloaders and recommended by some loading manuals, too.
Take a completely sized unprimed case and start the bullet into the case, and then chamber the round by pushing the bolt forward, which will seat the bullet to the maximum overall length. I've been able to easily seat bullets with pressure on the bolt up to 35 caliber this way with no issue. Drill a 3/16" hole crosswise through the case to identify it, and mark the case with the identity of the bullet and it's overall length. You can keep this dummy round to set the initial length of your seating stem, from which you can subtract the desired bullet clearance. I have a complete collection of these dummies for each rifle.
Very rarely, certain types of bullets will be grasped by the lands of the rifling and pull it partially or fully out, but that's usually seen by rub marks by the case. If in doubt, color a bullet with a Magic marker before seating the bullet. Any withdrawal will be showed by the scraped off ink.
thanks again! i've been contemplating for almost thirty years why my mauser 8 x 68s locked up the bolt on my starting loads. this thousand dollar rifle (acquired new) has shot two times. i no longer trusted the published loading data and simply put it away. perhaps this procedure will offer some insight. loaded ammo is hard to find now, as it was then, and this hiccup soured my confidence in shooting in general....
Spend 40 bucks and don’t take a chance. I have spent 40 bucks in more frivolous places than that.
Love the OAL gauge trick I will be using it. Thanks
On the Hornady overall length gage there is a "PUSH ROD" (plunger) that screws into the back of rifle case. This ""push rod" pushes the bullet into the chamber....Upon removing the case, the overall length gage is at, or slightly beyond (sticking out) the case neck...This also occurs with other bullet brands and grains.
Of course. It's a silly, expensive, and complicated device designed to pluck your wallet. That's why I did this video, to save you such waste and aggravation. If you follow my method, it works regardless of bullet brands or weights, and costs nothing.
to be the most accurate on loading, if i always went off the ogive, i then should have all bullets to the same off the land of the barrel. that giving me the most accurate. as i am using Nosler on my 7 mm rem mag but i have noticed that some of the tips and bullet length are measured are not all the same. thank you for all the great videos god bless.
Carry out the same procedure as described above and using the same bullet load a dummy round and seat the bullet to achieve the same overall length. Then fit a comparator to your caliper and what you measure minus your jump is what you seat all your rounds to. Regardless of variations in your bullets, your jump will be constant. Hope this helps.
2 years later this old timer is correct on all and lee all the way
Thank you for your no nonsense video much appreciated and answered all my question the biggest tip was once you get your OVAL to reduce it down another .015 to .030" to achieve better groups. I have friends that are using the first OVAL ( touching the lands) and getting grate groups. My Question is this an unsafe practice.
It's a common practice among benchrest shooters. It significantly raises pressure, so the load must be reduced accordingly or it will be unsafe. It's fine for target shooting, but because the rifling can pull an unfired bullet and spill powder, leaving the bullet jammed, it's a VERY poor method of loading for field and hunting loads. Typically, any rifle will find a highly accurate sweet spot somewhere around .020 from the lands, with the best velocity and freedom from worry.
@@GunBlue490 thank you very much and yes I agree I have seen my buddy pull his bolt back and the projectile stayed in the gun that's why ask I you this question. Thank you for your honesty I value and respect that very much. I will be watching your other videos they are very resourceful.
I have a concern using this method as it uses the tip of the bullet to establish the COAL. Out of curiosity I measured a box of Hornady ELD bullets from top to base and the bullets measured as much as .014” difference. I then went thru the same box of bullets but used a clamp on device for my calipers that uses a bushing that contacts a point near the bullet ogive and every bullet measured exactly the same.
In theory, it seems possible using the bullet tip to establish COAL that I could make a round that is touching the rifling lands when I think I’m seating bullets .015” off the lands.
Could you please comment on the inconsistencies of bullet length due to the tip shape or length inconsistencies?
I didn't know the rule about having the bullet one caliber deep. Great info.
That's the optimal depth, but some circumstances can call for less at one's discretion. For instance, many rifles have long throats to accommodate heavy bullets, where seating slightly closer to the rifling may provide better accuracy with short bullets. This is an issue that should be weighed in the light of its use, for instance: If it's a target or varmint round, where it can be gently single fed, without the prying effects of running from the magazine, a bullet can be seated to as little as a half caliber without concern. However, if it's a game hunting round, no amount of finessed seating depth for a 3/8 inch difference in accuracy is going to make a dime of difference, but could cost a hunting trip. That rule not only provides for a secure grip, but it also keeps the bullet properly aligned, concentric to the bore axis. Keep in mind that a great percentage of factory loaded ammo is seated deeply and very far from the rifling and can also be capable of fine accuracy.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks. I'm loading for an M48 Yugo Mauser in 8MM. I have some very old 150 grain round nose bullets from probably the 60s someone gave me. They are very short and even with them barely in the case they are actually below the min OAL my book says is ok. They shot fine though when I tried them at the range.
@@GunBlue490 z
Different bullets have different shapes ogives am l right?
Thank you for your professional video!
Big like!!!
Outstanding! Well done Sir!
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.🤥
If you are doing high grade accuracy rifle ammo in small quantities, it's a simple process of pushing out the media with a sharp object. I use a turkey trussing needle. Otherwise, any such debris will simply blow out by the primer and ignite the powder with no hazard whatsoever. Primers are very powerful and will easily take care of it. A stuck particle can't possibly blow the gun up.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you for your reply. Your knowledge is highly respected by me and a lot of reloaders. I know that to much powder can cause a problem like I know that to little power can cause a dangerous pressure spike. After over 200,000 reloads I had a round blow out the rear left side of a case in 223. I thought that a piece or a corn cob, or a clump, could have caused a pressure problem that could have exceeded the pressure. Also after searching the internet and youtube I could find no video or articules about tumbling media stuck in the case and the problem it could cause. They say if you reload long enough you will have a problem no matter how careful you are. I guess it was just my time for a round to blow. Thank you again. Stay well.
@@baugwan1 Thank you for your support. Any case failure would be from either a weakened case, or an over-loaded one. On what you told me, I suspect the weakened case, as it's pretty difficult to charge most .223 cases with such a heavy charge when using standard .223 ball powders. When using a multi-stage automated press, stick to powders that nearly fill a case, so stuck powder in the hopper dropping down can't give an overcharge without you seeing it, and always look at the level of powder before seating a bullet. BL-C2 and CFE223 are excellent in that regard.
You are so knowledgeable. I truly respect and enjoy your video's. This was is right on as usual and just so common sense. My question for you is should this be done every couple hundred rounds as your landing wears down? What would you suggest? I hope you get time to answer this. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.
The leade of a rifle should not change every couple hundred shots unless it's an overbore cartridge or overheated by abusive firing. If accuracy changes, it can be measured again, but that's the sign of a dying barrel that has a seriously deteriorated bore.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you sir for taking your time to answer me. I will heed your advice.
does a boat tail encourage a venturi effect at the case neck and cause more gas in front of the bullet?
I'm currently working up a load for a Winchester model 70 30-06 using Nosler Partition Spitzer 150 grain bullets. The bullet is only seated 0.268" in the cartridge neck, this is with a 0.030" seating depth off the lands. This setup currently violates the "cardinal rule" of having the same amount of bullet seating depth in the neck as the diameter of the bullet. If I were to follow the "cardinal rule" my bullet jump would go from 0.030" to 0.070", would having 0.070" bullet jump be a problem? Would my accuracy suffer? Is this length of jump even safe to have?
So after you get your measurement you subtract 0.030 from your over all measurement? Is 0.030 the number you use on all bullets as part of the equation( i know measure each type though)
Excellent technique, I think if you knew you’d be doing this enough, a couple of short lengths of rod or bar drilled to fit over the rod and with a grub screw fitted would make this even simpler and surer than tape
Tiny binder clips would probably also work well
This method has been around for many years in a few variations....including attaching metal rings secured to a cleaning rod with set screws (Sinclair). Try the method shown above three times with three different bullets. How much variation do you have? I'd say you have lots of potential variables with bullet tips, tape applications, measuring variations, and variations in technique from one time to the next. Write down your results from three attempts as said. How good is "good enough" for you?
What I find most astonishing about your videos sir is there are no negative comment.Why is that?Measuring between pieces of scotch tape really?
How do you know the cartridge you put in the chamber is contacting the lands in the first place? Alot of methods depict a loose bullet in the casing. Nothing like that was mentioned? Thanx.
Watch again, maybe you will understand what he is doing.
Excellent tutorial!
Once again thank you for such detailed information and simple explanations. You are a natural teacher. I hope you still check your comments and will answer these questions. I have a 270 that has a throat long enough that it doesn't make it possible to lengthen the cartridge to within .030 from the landings. When I measure the distance I am as much as .240 away from the landings and that would not allow me to extend the COL length that long because of the magazine distance and also it would not allow me to load the bullet deep enough using minimum cartridge diameter depth. I can extend the cartridge length another .050 without problems with loading and ejection but is it worth it? Would you lengthen as much as possible knowing the bullet is still a large amount away from the landings or in this case just stick with the standard length? I don't know if I am gaining anything. I could possibly extend the COL some more if I changed the bullet from a boat tail to a flat base? What pressure increase, if any, is there to worry about? Do you accept emails for such questions? Thank you in advance.
I also have this same issue with a Rem 700 270 Win. Any additional insight would be great on the topic.
My husband follows his loading manual big time. He shoots a .300 win.
Excellent, well explained
I use to minimally seat a bullet in a case place the dummy cartridge in the chamber then close the bolt. This would press the bullet against the rifling a further back into the case. Extract the cartridge measure the overall length then subtract.015-.030 . That would be the total length I would need. Is that an acceptable way. Thanks
Wow, now that's good stuff, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.Thanks for watching.
Gun Blue-I'm looking to get a Base to Ogive measurement for any particular bullet. Using the method in this video-would I then seat a bullet to the depth I get from the dial caliper, then take a Comparator and measure B.T.O.? Or- Modern technology being what it is- would I just assume ALL bullets in a given weight/lot will have the same Base to ogive if seated to the same depth? Thank You!
I'm new to reloading. I am reloading some nosler .308 at 150gr. The SAMMI max OAL is 2.810. When I use your method, I measure the max cartridge length at 2.940. If I back off 0.030 from this to get the best shooting accuracy, then I'm at 2.910 which exceeds SAMMI. Should I just stick with 2.810 which appears to be 0.13 from the optimum OAL in my Remington Model 600.
have enjoyed watching