I just saw a guy cut one of these in half with an angle grinder to remove the balance shafts. He then plugged two oil feed passage ways by tapping the openings and putting screws in with Loctite. I'll go your way unless I have that shaft play like you had.
I recently saw a guy with an S3 doing the balance shaft sprocket change. His seized and he lost oil pressure, Womp. Hope everything is happy after a good cleaning!
Yes, that is a failure I forgot to mention, when the shafts complete seize and snap the balance shaft sprocket! I've seen that a few times. 1.8T for life!
@@PBGarage Sorry im a bit lost. My oil pump chain snapped twice now in 8 months. Would a freewheel be a good bet to fix this? How can i determine if the balance shaft is the issue or its actualy the oil pump and ill need to change the entire balance shaft assembly?
@@oncaboy Sounds like your shafts are starting to seize up. IF and only if you do NOT loose oil pressure, then a free wheel will solve that issue. If you experience any oil pressure warnings, then you need to replace the pump and cut off for good measure.
Great video. I appreciate well researched and presented material that doesn't tell you what to do, but it gets you thinking which helps you in the short term and you may also find that it helps in the long term as well. It also gets the creative juices flowing and you might even come up with an even better idea.
I remember doing this on a skoda fabia, it had a hole in the sump after being moved with a forklift. the guy had a non balance shaft engine in another fabia, initialy we wanted to just use the sump but it would not clear the balance shaft so we removed the components inc the drive sprocket from the crank and fitted everything from the non balance shaft engine, iirc i only had to tap one of the galleries for a blanking bolt for it to work.
Interesting, I was researching this because I read that this is a common problem on this engine. I have a A4 B7 with a 2.0TFSI BWE engine @ 315 000 km. I have driven it for over 110 000 km and it's never been done. Though this one has been using 15 000 km oil change interval since new, and not 30 000 km long life.
It must definitely have something to do with oil change services. I think they are sensitive to poor maintenance and with these getting into the hands of those who don't properly maintain them exposes them as a weak point. Heard of a few cases on both extremes.
Please make a video once the installation is completed would love to hear how it sounds would love to do the same with my bwa audi TT. Thank you loved the video all the way from South Africa 🇿🇦 ❤
My chain broke on my oil Pump assembly. Pulled over immediately but just not sure what direction to go in as not sure about more damage to other components. And even whether the oil Pump itself is still fully functional.
@@PBGarage I didn’t know they had to be plugged at first either but it was taken care of before i put it back in the engine and i also recommend a oil pressure gauge lol
I need information on what you have done I thinks my balancer shaift needle bearing is done or not existant anymore and I have intermittent low oil pressure warning when I let the gaz off
There is another option you missed. Swap the Totally Fukcing sh1t idea (TFSI) engine for the 1.8t20v and use the TSFI crank to stroke it. Comes with a free 1.8t oil pump and PRV
hahah yes, that is also an option that I would do before trying to retrofit a 1.8T pump to the 2.0T. I mentioned that actually at the end of Option 6 at 13:00 minutes, should have made it option 7 indeed!
Hello, is it possible to see whether the oil strainer is dirty/closed or not via the oil drain plug with an endoscope camera? Can you make a video for us to see if that is possible? Thanks
It certainly is not possible, clearances are way to tight to get a camera to bend into position let alone keep oil from dripping onto tbe lens. Best to take the pan off and inspect.
@@PBGarage Browsing for performance parts in the US is always a bit annoying, as you have to look at B6 for engine and B7 for chassis. But the B7 1.8t I got sure is a cost saving late model, deadhead fuelrail with no vacuum reference, single side SMIC etc.
@@jonasthemovie I've managed to install OEM B7 dual side mount intercoolers into a 1.8T B6. was pretty straight forward actually. Couldnt fit the driver side B7 intercooler, but the rest clicked right together. You can make it a return fuel line set up if want! All of the things are possibles!
Good video. But I wish I would have found it BEFORE I got the modified iabed unit. I swear I searched for days to find anything on the 2.0FSI low oil pressure indication my 2007 A3 was getting. I saw a ton of B7 and others but very little for the 8P. It took nearly 3 months to get the pump/shaft assembly so the car sat. I didn't want to risk the low oil pressure. Plus I couldn't find any junkyards with the 2.0FSI engines. Anyway, when I installed it, my battery was dead from sitting all summer, so I hooked up a charger/starter and something weird happened - the lights began to flash and the horn made a sick sounding honking noise. When I tried to start the car all my dash light flashed and the gear selection row (PRNDS) flashed slowly and continuously. My shifter was locked in position. I used the emergency release under the cover to put it in gear but the transmission did nothing. I downloaded a VCDS scan and just about every module had errors and faults! Ultimately, I had to take it to Blair Automotive in Carrollton TX who found the shift selector bad. Somehow hooking up my jump start box fried it! That was over $2K and almost a month wait for the part from Deutschland. I finally picked it up last week and drove it for the first time with the iabed shaft delete mod and I have to say, it actually seems to idle smoother and QUIETER! the 2.0FSI has always been a 'diesel' at idle. It now sounds more like a garden variety 4 banger. Do you think the balance shafts are what make that rattling noise? I always thought it was the injectors. Both my shafts were loose but not as bad as in your video. Enough to give me an oil pressure light though. I don't notice a power increase as is claimed but then again, I'm at APR stage 2+ so probably not much to notice of the pants. Plus, I'm running cheap tires with no grip right now so any heavy acceleration is greeted with large amounts of traction control (or tire smoke if I turn it off!). Thanks for the video and info.
I don’t think the injectors cause vibrations, they would contribute to noise/ticking, but the balance shafts not being held in place will certainly cause vibrations. The 2.0 in general is known to be a noisy and vibration riddled engine. By letting the battery die/disconnect will cause a fault in every system as they all see power loss. Resetting all the codes with a charged battery will clear them for good. Happy to hear you liked the video!
The camshafts are driven by a chain at the back of the engine(front being the side with belts) The tensioner is spring loaded with an oil feed to tension it. The tensioner has a small feed for the oil and a filter built in. Over time this gets clogged and the engine will sound like a real diesel engine. While youre taking all that apart make sure to replace the cam follower for the high pressure fuel pump, it’s a known weakness and should be a maintenance item every 10000miles to be safe(though mine was still ok at 100k miles)
Hey man, i just bought an audi a3 about a month ago, just realised now that i hear a rattling noise from the sump and an oil light above 2000rpm. Im thinking of option 1, though i dont know what its casualties may be.
Hey man if you could respond this would be super helpful I’m doing the oil pump and that spring sitting next to your assembly came out. Where does that go?
Where's the video for removing the oil pump.. might give that a try before I just 1.8t swap it.. my mk4 gti runs fantastic at 315hp. Just do it again in my mk5.. lol after I blow the 2.ot up.. lol
Check 8:15, it certainly can, which is why I found a good used unit and cut the shafts from the good unit. If I put a free wheel on my original unit, I would still have oil pressure issues once warmed up.
@PBGarage also its the cheapest if you dont scam yourself, even tho the others cost less they take so much more time and effort and the risk of contaminating youre engine also time is money
Depends how you’re slicing it for sure. If you’re doing it as preventative maintenance and you’re just cutting off the gear like Blake did here, it’s free.
Ye this might have been my issue I was hearing. Ticking noise and I was getting low oil pressure light coming on once in a while replaced sender since it was leaking out the connector so replace and no more light but I would get they beep once in a while and then 2 weeks later boom rod out the side of the block on the highway, so I’m going to check it out on the used engine thanks for the vid. What a stupid design
alright buddy i see you are pretty active in replying to messages so I will take my chance. In my case there is a A4 B8 with a 2.0 TFSI engine. Six months ago started some errors regarding oil level but the oil level is ok everytime. So I am thinking doing this freewheel mod but I am afraid it would damage the engine. Another question that pops up in my mind is why Audi/VW developed these engines to work like this with the balance shafts?
Oil level error might just be a bad oil level sensor. Balance shaft assemblies were introduced to make the engine smoother/more comfort, especially for being a premium brand, they come up with all sorts of devices to make it smoother. I honestly have not noticed any change in comfort/NVH. Mines an automatic, so its not smooth to begin with due to the torque converter most likely failing.
The oil light comes on from time to time, I have stopped the car and I have not gone with it, disassembling the pump and cutting the balancer sprocket will it solve the problem? Or do I have to buy another new pump and modify it?
No, the chain rarely fails, unless caused by something else. To do the chain you would have to get into service position, remove the timing belt/crank pulley, timing cog and front main seal cover. not worth it in my opnion unless you are going high HP/
Why can't we just replace oil pump for good measure and weld the wobbled out port hole that balance shaft goes through and then delete it by cutting the balance shaft
You certainly can do that, but you need be able to weld aluminum. I am also uncertain about the path of oil flow through the overall assembly, and leaving it all in place is a safer bet to maintain proper pressure throughout the overall system. I should have mentioned that as an option.
I just saw a guy cut one of these in half with an angle grinder to remove the balance shafts. He then plugged two oil feed passage ways by tapping the openings and putting screws in with Loctite. I'll go your way unless I have that shaft play like you had.
Yep that works too. Never seen it myself but in theory works especially if you are planning to reuse your assembly.
I like all your option explanations. Very helpful as I’m thinking of doing the 1.8 conversion.
Thank you! Keep us posted on the conversion project!
I recently saw a guy with an S3 doing the balance shaft sprocket change. His seized and he lost oil pressure, Womp.
Hope everything is happy after a good cleaning!
Yes, that is a failure I forgot to mention, when the shafts complete seize and snap the balance shaft sprocket! I've seen that a few times. 1.8T for life!
@@PBGarage Sorry im a bit lost. My oil pump chain snapped twice now in 8 months. Would a freewheel be a good bet to fix this? How can i determine if the balance shaft is the issue or its actualy the oil pump and ill need to change the entire balance shaft assembly?
@@oncaboy Sounds like your shafts are starting to seize up. IF and only if you do NOT loose oil pressure, then a free wheel will solve that issue. If you experience any oil pressure warnings, then you need to replace the pump and cut off for good measure.
Great video. I appreciate well researched and presented material that doesn't tell you what to do, but it gets you thinking which helps you in the short term and you may also find that it helps in the long term as well. It also gets the creative juices flowing and you might even come up with an even better idea.
Thank for the great comment! Always happy to hear positive feedback on delivery methods.
Interesting video. Learned a lot about 2L's. And i like the 1.8t swap into a b7 idea.
Ha agreed 1.8 ftw!
Great Video! Very good explanation about the options. Congrats.👏
Thank yoy!
I remember doing this on a skoda fabia, it had a hole in the sump after being moved with a forklift.
the guy had a non balance shaft engine in another fabia, initialy we wanted to just use the sump but it would not clear the balance shaft so we removed the components inc the drive sprocket from the crank and fitted everything from the non balance shaft engine, iirc i only had to tap one of the galleries for a blanking bolt for it to work.
Nice work finding a solution!
Interesting, I was researching this because I read that this is a common problem on this engine. I have a A4 B7 with a 2.0TFSI BWE engine @ 315 000 km. I have driven it for over 110 000 km and it's never been done. Though this one has been using 15 000 km oil change interval since new, and not 30 000 km long life.
It must definitely have something to do with oil change services. I think they are sensitive to poor maintenance and with these getting into the hands of those who don't properly maintain them exposes them as a weak point. Heard of a few cases on both extremes.
Thanx for the video and all the options
Happy to help!
I put the VIS free wheel last weekend and my engine is now working fine. Thanx again
Please make a video once the installation is completed would love to hear how it sounds would love to do the same with my bwa audi TT. Thank you loved the video all the way from South Africa 🇿🇦 ❤
Thanks for the support!! Super cool to hear our videos reach around the world! And yes, update video is coming soon 😁
Seconded, also looking at this for my BWE that is currently in for repairs. Balancing shaft seized and grenaded the entire engine, so it's gotta go
My chain broke on my oil
Pump assembly. Pulled over immediately but just not sure what direction to go in as not sure about more damage to other components. And even whether the oil
Pump itself is still fully functional.
I’m no expert but I think the simplest solution might be a 2.7T swap.
Doubtful that the oil pump is still functional, would need to drop the pan, pump and check for carnage.
Hi , thanks for all this information, my question is ,where is the oil pressure regulator location ? Behind pump ?
Correct, it is behind the pump, from the top of it, you can see a large hex bolt right behind it. Remove that bolt and the valve will spring out.
За допомогою цього клапана , можна підняти тиск масла?
excellent video
Thank you!
I cut both my shafts out and then welded the oil gallies
Heard of that too! No many perform it to that level but those that do, sometimes forget to weld them shut.
@@PBGarage I didn’t know they had to be plugged at first either but it was taken care of before i put it back in the engine and i also recommend a oil pressure gauge lol
You got a video on it or can give some info that is what I was thinking about doing as mine have alot of play in it like the one he has
I need information on what you have done I thinks my balancer shaift needle bearing is done or not existant anymore and I have intermittent low oil pressure warning when I let the gaz off
There is another option you missed. Swap the Totally Fukcing sh1t idea (TFSI) engine for the 1.8t20v and use the TSFI crank to stroke it. Comes with a free 1.8t oil pump and PRV
hahah yes, that is also an option that I would do before trying to retrofit a 1.8T pump to the 2.0T. I mentioned that actually at the end of Option 6 at 13:00 minutes, should have made it option 7 indeed!
Hello, is it possible to see whether the oil strainer is dirty/closed or not via the oil drain plug with an endoscope camera? Can you make a video for us to see if that is possible? Thanks
It certainly is not possible, clearances are way to tight to get a camera to bend into position let alone keep oil from dripping onto tbe lens. Best to take the pan off and inspect.
I got a 1.8T in my B7 Avant Quattro. Not as torquey as the 2.0, but running 215hp at least.
I am super jealous that the 1.8T came in the B7 in Europe! That is the perfect combo for the B7, or a 2.7.
@@PBGarage Browsing for performance parts in the US is always a bit annoying, as you have to look at B6 for engine and B7 for chassis. But the B7 1.8t I got sure is a cost saving late model, deadhead fuelrail with no vacuum reference, single side SMIC etc.
@@jonasthemovie I've managed to install OEM B7 dual side mount intercoolers into a 1.8T B6. was pretty straight forward actually. Couldnt fit the driver side B7 intercooler, but the rest clicked right together. You can make it a return fuel line set up if want! All of the things are possibles!
@@PBGarage Went for a 40% larger driver side IC instead of messing with the air pump placement and radiator support.
Good video. But I wish I would have found it BEFORE I got the modified iabed unit. I swear I searched for days to find anything on the 2.0FSI low oil pressure indication my 2007 A3 was getting. I saw a ton of B7 and others but very little for the 8P. It took nearly 3 months to get the pump/shaft assembly so the car sat. I didn't want to risk the low oil pressure. Plus I couldn't find any junkyards with the 2.0FSI engines.
Anyway, when I installed it, my battery was dead from sitting all summer, so I hooked up a charger/starter and something weird happened - the lights began to flash and the horn made a sick sounding honking noise. When I tried to start the car all my dash light flashed and the gear selection row (PRNDS) flashed slowly and continuously. My shifter was locked in position. I used the emergency release under the cover to put it in gear but the transmission did nothing. I downloaded a VCDS scan and just about every module had errors and faults! Ultimately, I had to take it to Blair Automotive in Carrollton TX who found the shift selector bad. Somehow hooking up my jump start box fried it! That was over $2K and almost a month wait for the part from Deutschland. I finally picked it up last week and drove it for the first time with the iabed shaft delete mod and I have to say, it actually seems to idle smoother and QUIETER! the 2.0FSI has always been a 'diesel' at idle. It now sounds more like a garden variety 4 banger. Do you think the balance shafts are what make that rattling noise? I always thought it was the injectors. Both my shafts were loose but not as bad as in your video. Enough to give me an oil pressure light though. I don't notice a power increase as is claimed but then again, I'm at APR stage 2+ so probably not much to notice of the pants. Plus, I'm running cheap tires with no grip right now so any heavy acceleration is greeted with large amounts of traction control (or tire smoke if I turn it off!).
Thanks for the video and info.
I don’t think the injectors cause vibrations, they would contribute to noise/ticking, but the balance shafts not being held in place will certainly cause vibrations. The 2.0 in general is known to be a noisy and vibration riddled engine. By letting the battery die/disconnect will cause a fault in every system as they all see power loss. Resetting all the codes with a charged battery will clear them for good. Happy to hear you liked the video!
The camshafts are driven by a chain at the back of the engine(front being the side with belts)
The tensioner is spring loaded with an oil feed to tension it.
The tensioner has a small feed for the oil and a filter built in.
Over time this gets clogged and the engine will sound like a real diesel engine.
While youre taking all that apart make sure to replace the cam follower for the high pressure fuel pump, it’s a known weakness and should be a maintenance item every 10000miles to be safe(though mine was still ok at 100k miles)
Hey man, i just bought an audi a3 about a month ago, just realised now that i hear a rattling noise from the sump and an oil light above 2000rpm. Im thinking of option 1, though i dont know what its casualties may be.
Stay tuned we are about to upload a bunch on a GLI with failed oil pump, same setup as the A3.
Hey man if you could respond this would be super helpful I’m doing the oil pump and that spring sitting next to your assembly came out. Where does that go?
That spring is for the chain tensioner
Love the video but whare is the taking out the oil pump video?
Should be up this weekend!
@@PBGarage thanks❤️
Can this be done with the motor in car? Great video.
Yes, we have another video coming showing that process real soon.
@@PBGarage looking forward to watching it. Thanks for the reply.
Awesome video thanks
Thank you!
Where's the video for removing the oil pump.. might give that a try before I just 1.8t swap it.. my mk4 gti runs fantastic at 315hp. Just do it again in my mk5.. lol after I blow the 2.ot up.. lol
Good question, I also want to see the removal and install video.
Its been posted for at least 30 minutes :s check it out! Its hot off the press!
@@PBGarage nice!
Well done!
Thank you!
Forget the 2.0 or 1.8T, that car needs a 2.7T 😎
Good video! Now that you've put 20,000km on the repaired engine, how is it running??
Hahah 1000km so far no issues!
3 months ago I had my car abandoned due to this fault and I can't find a solution in Argentina. If you can recommend me any ebay or Amazon link
www.ebay.com/itm/325613398396?epid=1322073900&hash=item4bd012297c:g:k9EAAOSwk-Re~VMk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0IEG%2Fkvc8559ShB2UpRLqtyvBvxSTziP0%2BHBx%2Bt6%2B7EntK3QKpX5aLVKVKZN6ObKvzVEpNM4mIWcZxMgxpBxVQ8Dz%2BSFePpN55OKSLzE5iSKE4W4rAxPDHfY1GIXSzIH27yr5K2fCYdvTsF9Y5qv25k%2BawoBtFZBcfp6w9zxN6UJoSJXili%2F49ITEPSFj1U5iYwqcFqEmZ67cfroqdfTX9D6aPm9w45uBoVP38zUE%2BsYM91uPuY5%2F9ZM3J%2BkQBAqe%2FV%2F%2BpjxM252WAnz%2BQo5s9Q%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8CTgbKLYg
Thats the one you want. Let us know how it goes!
i do my Balance shaft delete , i cut off my wheel so theres no spinning on the shafts it work 5000km without issues
Are vibrations increased? is it a lot different then before? mine siezed,i pla nto cut them aswell. Answer if u can please
I have not noticed any additional vibrations.
@@TheDraganche the Motor little more swank ob idle 🤭
Does this affect oil pressure at idle once warmed up? I read some people were getting low oil pressure with the balance shaft delete?
Check 8:15, it certainly can, which is why I found a good used unit and cut the shafts from the good unit. If I put a free wheel on my original unit, I would still have oil pressure issues once warmed up.
mikmotoren makes a perfect kit for a lil under 1k no drilling or changing of sprockets
That’s a beauty kit, definitely a great option for anyone wanting to keep the car a long time.
@PBGarage also its the cheapest if you dont scam yourself, even tho the others cost less they take so much more time and effort and the risk of contaminating youre engine also time is money
Depends how you’re slicing it for sure. If you’re doing it as preventative maintenance and you’re just cutting off the gear like Blake did here, it’s free.
Any kind of vibration After this upgrade?
It did not cause any additional vibrations at all.
I feel like swapping to a 1.8T and manual gearbox would be less time/money/effort than replacing that oil pump.
Option 1 should be to delete entire 2.0t and replace with 1.8t. No further options.
Quick question. Can balance shaft make annoying sound when the engine is warm but no sound when cold?
Yes. Oil is thicker when cold. Cold thick oil will fill the loose tolerances until the oil heats up/thins out.
@@PBGarage sounds like balance shaft delete.. 😅
Ye this might have been my issue I was hearing. Ticking noise and I was getting low oil pressure light coming on once in a while replaced sender since it was leaking out the connector so replace and no more light but I would get they beep once in a while and then 2 weeks later boom rod out the side of the block on the highway, so I’m going to check it out on the used engine thanks for the vid. What a stupid design
Yep truly a design flaw imo. Some don't even make it to 100kmiles like mine!
alright buddy i see you are pretty active in replying to messages so I will take my chance. In my case there is a A4 B8 with a 2.0 TFSI engine. Six months ago started some errors regarding oil level but the oil level is ok everytime. So I am thinking doing this freewheel mod but I am afraid it would damage the engine. Another question that pops up in my mind is why Audi/VW developed these engines to work like this with the balance shafts?
Oil level error might just be a bad oil level sensor. Balance shaft assemblies were introduced to make the engine smoother/more comfort, especially for being a premium brand, they come up with all sorts of devices to make it smoother. I honestly have not noticed any change in comfort/NVH. Mines an automatic, so its not smooth to begin with due to the torque converter most likely failing.
The oil light comes on from time to time, I have stopped the car and I have not gone with it, disassembling the pump and cutting the balancer sprocket will it solve the problem? Or do I have to buy another new pump and modify it?
Need to buy another pump and modify it.
Link to video of removing/installing oil pump on 2.0L ? Searched but couldn't find it
Just posted it finally! Check it out!
@@PBGarage awesome! 🙏🙏
drop a link to the the 1st related vid - either pin it as a comment, or in YT Studio add a “card” and timestamp it where you mention it 🤓
Ha need to button the video up first! Still haven’t competed the instal either… but will upset this vid with the link for sure!
Does anyone change the chain on this job?
No, the chain rarely fails, unless caused by something else. To do the chain you would have to get into service position, remove the timing belt/crank pulley, timing cog and front main seal cover. not worth it in my opnion unless you are going high HP/
@@PBGarage thanks for the reply, I decided to leave the chain in place and all is well 👍
@@luk-argen7144 NIce good to hear!
Why can't we just replace oil pump for good measure and weld the wobbled out port hole that balance shaft goes through and then delete it by cutting the balance shaft
You certainly can do that, but you need be able to weld aluminum. I am also uncertain about the path of oil flow through the overall assembly, and leaving it all in place is a safer bet to maintain proper pressure throughout the overall system. I should have mentioned that as an option.
Could you not have removed the balance weights and blocked the holes yourself?
yes, but that requires a significant amount of grinding, and then some means to press in some bushings. More work than just pulling a used one for me.
💯
Thank you!
En español zorry
Yes exactly