Nice tutorial man! I've been right where you are a couple years ago. I think you and I have nearly identical short blocks, not sure if you also have forged rods, but my oil marker lines are yellow instead. As long as one mods the balance shaft (to accommodate for the inevitable seizing), regularly changes the cam follower on regular intervals, and primes the oil system 3 times when doing timing or rebuilds (since the VVT gobbles all the oil from the pain during the first prime) then the car will live a good long life.
Hey Thanks for the comment Scott! I believe the bolt comes with the o-ring integral to it. I dont believe its a separate piece you have to go and get as long as the bolt is new.
Hello, is it possible to see whether the oil strainer is dirty/closed or not via the oil drain plug with an endoscope camera? Can you make a video for us to see if that is possible? Thanks
Yes, I think it would be possible - but yould need a high quality camera. The one I have is 7 years old and is a very low res camera/scope. However, that it a great idea and I will try to make a video of that! Thank you for the comment and suggestion!
No, I used 15NM and an additional 90*. 15 NM is what the Factory Service Manual (FSM) calls for. The 20NM +90* is the torque spec for the sprocket bolt, I believe.
Hey My Friend, on this video, I was installing a WASA free wheeling sprocket that is 'deleting' the balance shaft - hence no timing necessary. If you are trying to time the OEM components, check out this excellent video: ruclips.net/user/shorts9D0PNP2vSCs
So I am doing what you've done, but I did not pull my engine. My balance shaft seized, and I've done the cheap mans balance shaft delete by cutting out the small gear, essentially turning the cog into a free wheel. I'm assuming I have to remove the crank timing belt sprocket in order to get that plate off so I can access the oil pump sprocket. I believe what I'm needing is a crank locking pin. Having troubles finding one. Every site says item wont' fit ):
Hey Matt! I would say go ahead and remove the oil pump from the engine. Sounds like all you need to do is bust loose the T45 (?) fastener holding the oil pump sprocket (and chain) on. Once you break that T45 loose you can remove the sprocket and the chain will hang off the crank. An impact will knock that loose no problem or you can jam a small punch into the teeth of the sprocket to hold it. Good luck!
@@beerwrenchgarage sorry, I have the oil pump out. What I'm having trouble with is getting the new oil pump chain on. Looks like I have to remove the front main seal in order to get the chain on. I am having the worst time getting the crankshaft sprocket off.
@@mattpursell9151 Hey Matt, the install would be the reverse of the disassembly: remove the sprocket - bolt the pump to the engine, hook the sprocket the chain and install the bolt for the sprocket, finally install the tensioner and let loose on the tensioner pin. If you are determined to get the crankshaft sprocket on, ensure the transmission is engaged (parking brake engaged) and then put a breaker bar and loosen the crank bolt. This may take some doing as Ive seen some of these 2.0 crank bolts rust in place fiercely.
So I just did an engine swap, and I'm getting EPC light with intermittent low oil pressure warnings... How doable is this with the motor still in the car? Was hoping it's just a matter of cleaning the pan/pickup out.. But if we gotta swap pumps, I'd rather not take the engine back out 🤦
Its 'Do-able' in the same way emergency surgery is do-able in a camping tent 500 miles from an operating room. You can do it, but you will have to drop the subframe a significant amount. Its honestly almost as much work to pull the motor out and do it on a stand. HOWEVER, you are assuming the oil pump is bad. It could very well be you have bad oil squirter(s) and that will require a whole engine tear down to get to all 4. In my case, for this red car, it was a couple of bad oil squirters causing low oil pressure.
I dont think you HAVE to. Its probably there to avoid the chain whipping up oil unnecessarily. I dont think it would be catastrophic to run the engine without it - but if you CAN get a replacement, I would just to be safe.
Hey Brother - good questions! Two reasons: The main reason is that the OEM balance shaft sprocket has a tendency to fail. Typically, when it fails, it essentially collapses on its self, throws the chain and kills the oil pump, leading to catastrophic failure. Its not a super likely chance of occurrence, but removing the sprocket helps 'bulletproof' the oil pump. The second reason is to reduce parasitic drag on the crank and free up a small bit of horsepower. While technically, deleting the balance shaft leads to increased noise and vibration, I have seen very little difference. A well running balance shaft-less 2.0 FSI will be virtually indistinguishable from an average 2.0 FSI with a balance shaft.
@@beerwrenchgarage that's what I was concerned with. I know any honda over 2.2 liters has balance shafts.. but I might have to inspect my pump make sure it looks OK ans there's no clogs or Play in shaft.
@@MyHomeGarage Yeah, so for the Audi 2.0 balance shafts, because they are integral to the oil pump, its a bit of a land mine. Theres nothing inherently bad about the shaft itself - its just the weird bolt that Audi uses to secure the balance shaft sprocket to the shaft. Like I said before if the bolt fails, it takes out the pump. I mean its not a super high rate of failure, but when it hpapens, its general catastrophic. For this engine, I wanted to maximize its ability to go another 100K miles, so it made sense to spend $200 on the WASA freewheel. On other engines, it the balance shaft is not integrated into other components, I wouldnt worry about it. That being said, Im not familiar with the Honda designs. If you have one out, it might make for a good little video.
@@beerwrenchgarage honda is exactly the same with thr 4 cylinder engines k series balance shaft and oil pump integrated. I have one sitting ona bench I'll post a pic. Yeah I'm waiting on a extra car to come back so I can take the audi and take my time. I watch to pull motor do rear chain the the phaser bolt it stripped. I gotta drill it out. I wanna do a carbon cleaning. I hate how these engines idle. It doesn't feel premium. I want to change the transmission mount. Inspect clutch flywheel ect. When I sell this car I want the next owner to have a flawless faily. As much as possible anyway lol.
@@MyHomeGarage I hear you Bro - these fucking engines are very finnicky. Two points - 1.) you can do just as well a job of cleaning the valves with a pick, some Mopar carbon cleaner, and a tooth brush as with a fancy walnut set up. 2.) The PCV system on these cars is complex and integrates the valve cover and the turbo. People sleep on the PCV system, but its an important part of getting this engine to run well. Good luck with the adjuster bolt. I've done two - both times with the cam out of the car - one time I was able to drill through the bolt - smash a torx socket in there and spin it out. The other time, after many tries of drill the bolt out - I gave up and cut the adjuster off the top of the cam with a sawzall (was able to save the adjuster - needed a new cam).
Hi! Thanks for the comment - its been about 2 years now and the balance shaft is working perfectly. The engine runs excellent and the increase in noise/vibration is so minimal that most people wont notice.
To be honest, I dont think so. BUT a worn tensioner can fail and throw off the chain, causing the pump to quit and catastrophically affecting oil pressure. Great question, thank for asking!
@@beerwrenchgarage No worries. The tensioner is quite worn in my engine and it's making the chain looser because it cuts 1-2 mm into the plastic. I couldn't torque down the bolt for the pump after inspecting the pump. It would just skip the teeth when I tried to do the initial torque of 20 Nm. And the low pressure problem is really strange because it only occurs during slowdown and only sometimes. Hot idle is fine.
Not yet. I've driven the car for a few miles with no oil pressure light. Have not hooked up a mechanical gauge yet as Im sorting out some drivetrain issues/waiting on parts. Will update as soon as I get everything together.
Zero issues. On the WASA website, they have an option to pay by credit card. I bought freewheel just like any other transaction online. To be honest, I was actually surprised at how quick it arrived (within 2 weeks).
Ive been waiting to make a video on it. But I'll give an update here: I've currently got just under 500 miles on the engine with no oil pressure light. Have not put the mechanical gauge on for readings yet - but am planning to make a video of that and a compression test. No issues with the engine - she runs great (knock on wood). There is a slight increase in vibration from the balance shaft not being present though.
No, didn’t block the balance shaft - that’s what the WASA sprocket does - the outside of the sprocket spins with the chain and inside keeps the balance shaft stationery.
Sorry for taking a while to reply. First, the engine (crank) needs to be at TDC, then the oil pump sprocket with the sharp teeth has a skinny line mark on it. The mark on the sprocket need to be essentially pointing down (or up) on the crank, at that point jam a punch between the teeth of the sprocket and the body of the pump to immobilize the sprocket/chain, then you can tighten the bolt for the sprocket. If you need that specific section from the manual, email me (beerwrenchkc@gmail.com) and I will get it to you.
@@psiturbo Yes - Yes it is! Sorry I didnt update this particular comment but my channel has the video on running and oil pressure after the WASA delete: Here it is: ruclips.net/video/cctQFoGDniM/видео.html
The clean view of the chain was so helpful for me. I really needed to understand how the tensioner worked and this did it perfectly.
Thanks Bro! I love reading these kinds of comments - so excited the video helped you out!
Nice tutorial man! I've been right where you are a couple years ago. I think you and I have nearly identical short blocks, not sure if you also have forged rods, but my oil marker lines are yellow instead. As long as one mods the balance shaft (to accommodate for the inevitable seizing), regularly changes the cam follower on regular intervals, and primes the oil system 3 times when doing timing or rebuilds (since the VVT gobbles all the oil from the pain during the first prime) then the car will live a good long life.
Thanks for watching Brother! You are right on in your 2.0 wisdom!
Great help, one thing missed-the O ring on the top of the special bolt 😊
Hey Thanks for the comment Scott! I believe the bolt comes with the o-ring integral to it. I dont believe its a separate piece you have to go and get as long as the bolt is new.
Hello, is it possible to see whether the oil strainer is dirty/closed or not via the oil drain plug with an endoscope camera? Can you make a video for us to see if that is possible? Thanks
Yes, I think it would be possible - but yould need a high quality camera. The one I have is 7 years old and is a very low res camera/scope. However, that it a great idea and I will try to make a video of that! Thank you for the comment and suggestion!
Really helpful video. Regarding the NM to tight the oil pump bolts, did you use 20 NM plus
90 degree?
No, I used 15NM and an additional 90*. 15 NM is what the Factory Service Manual (FSM) calls for. The 20NM +90* is the torque spec for the sprocket bolt, I believe.
Hola no has indicado el calado de los balanceadores de la bomba de aceite. Cual es?
Hey My Friend, on this video, I was installing a WASA free wheeling sprocket that is 'deleting' the balance shaft - hence no timing necessary. If you are trying to time the OEM components, check out this excellent video: ruclips.net/user/shorts9D0PNP2vSCs
muchas gracias!!
So I am doing what you've done, but I did not pull my engine. My balance shaft seized, and I've done the cheap mans balance shaft delete by cutting out the small gear, essentially turning the cog into a free wheel. I'm assuming I have to remove the crank timing belt sprocket in order to get that plate off so I can access the oil pump sprocket. I believe what I'm needing is a crank locking pin. Having troubles finding one. Every site says item wont' fit ):
Hey Matt! I would say go ahead and remove the oil pump from the engine. Sounds like all you need to do is bust loose the T45 (?) fastener holding the oil pump sprocket (and chain) on. Once you break that T45 loose you can remove the sprocket and the chain will hang off the crank. An impact will knock that loose no problem or you can jam a small punch into the teeth of the sprocket to hold it. Good luck!
@@beerwrenchgarage sorry, I have the oil pump out. What I'm having trouble with is getting the new oil pump chain on. Looks like I have to remove the front main seal in order to get the chain on. I am having the worst time getting the crankshaft sprocket off.
@@mattpursell9151 Hey Matt, the install would be the reverse of the disassembly: remove the sprocket - bolt the pump to the engine, hook the sprocket the chain and install the bolt for the sprocket, finally install the tensioner and let loose on the tensioner pin. If you are determined to get the crankshaft sprocket on, ensure the transmission is engaged (parking brake engaged) and then put a breaker bar and loosen the crank bolt. This may take some doing as Ive seen some of these 2.0 crank bolts rust in place fiercely.
Yea, I must have one of those. I broke an idle pulley while trying to get the crank bolt off ):@@beerwrenchgarage
So I just did an engine swap, and I'm getting EPC light with intermittent low oil pressure warnings... How doable is this with the motor still in the car? Was hoping it's just a matter of cleaning the pan/pickup out.. But if we gotta swap pumps, I'd rather not take the engine back out 🤦
Its 'Do-able' in the same way emergency surgery is do-able in a camping tent 500 miles from an operating room. You can do it, but you will have to drop the subframe a significant amount. Its honestly almost as much work to pull the motor out and do it on a stand. HOWEVER, you are assuming the oil pump is bad. It could very well be you have bad oil squirter(s) and that will require a whole engine tear down to get to all 4. In my case, for this red car, it was a couple of bad oil squirters causing low oil pressure.
Do you have to put the plastic cover back on? Mine broke
I dont think you HAVE to. Its probably there to avoid the chain whipping up oil unnecessarily. I dont think it would be catastrophic to run the engine without it - but if you CAN get a replacement, I would just to be safe.
I need your help where did you get your part oil pump and balancer delete?
Just go to the WASA website: wasamotor.com/shop/vw-audi-skoda-and-seat/tfsi-2-0-ea113/oil-pump-balance-shaft/balance-shaft-delete-tfsi-2-0-freewheel/
Hey brother. Question. Why aren't you using the balance shaft? What is the purpose of the free spinning sprocket.
Hey Brother - good questions! Two reasons: The main reason is that the OEM balance shaft sprocket has a tendency to fail. Typically, when it fails, it essentially collapses on its self, throws the chain and kills the oil pump, leading to catastrophic failure. Its not a super likely chance of occurrence, but removing the sprocket helps 'bulletproof' the oil pump. The second reason is to reduce parasitic drag on the crank and free up a small bit of horsepower. While technically, deleting the balance shaft leads to increased noise and vibration, I have seen very little difference. A well running balance shaft-less 2.0 FSI will be virtually indistinguishable from an average 2.0 FSI with a balance shaft.
@@beerwrenchgarage that's what I was concerned with. I know any honda over 2.2 liters has balance shafts.. but I might have to inspect my pump make sure it looks OK ans there's no clogs or Play in shaft.
@@MyHomeGarage Yeah, so for the Audi 2.0 balance shafts, because they are integral to the oil pump, its a bit of a land mine. Theres nothing inherently bad about the shaft itself - its just the weird bolt that Audi uses to secure the balance shaft sprocket to the shaft. Like I said before if the bolt fails, it takes out the pump. I mean its not a super high rate of failure, but when it hpapens, its general catastrophic. For this engine, I wanted to maximize its ability to go another 100K miles, so it made sense to spend $200 on the WASA freewheel. On other engines, it the balance shaft is not integrated into other components, I wouldnt worry about it. That being said, Im not familiar with the Honda designs. If you have one out, it might make for a good little video.
@@beerwrenchgarage honda is exactly the same with thr 4 cylinder engines k series balance shaft and oil pump integrated. I have one sitting ona bench I'll post a pic. Yeah I'm waiting on a extra car to come back so I can take the audi and take my time. I watch to pull motor do rear chain the the phaser bolt it stripped. I gotta drill it out. I wanna do a carbon cleaning. I hate how these engines idle. It doesn't feel premium. I want to change the transmission mount. Inspect clutch flywheel ect. When I sell this car I want the next owner to have a flawless faily. As much as possible anyway lol.
@@MyHomeGarage I hear you Bro - these fucking engines are very finnicky. Two points - 1.) you can do just as well a job of cleaning the valves with a pick, some Mopar carbon cleaner, and a tooth brush as with a fancy walnut set up. 2.) The PCV system on these cars is complex and integrates the valve cover and the turbo. People sleep on the PCV system, but its an important part of getting this engine to run well. Good luck with the adjuster bolt. I've done two - both times with the cam out of the car - one time I was able to drill through the bolt - smash a torx socket in there and spin it out. The other time, after many tries of drill the bolt out - I gave up and cut the adjuster off the top of the cam with a sawzall (was able to save the adjuster - needed a new cam).
It’s been a few years how’s the balance shaft holding up?
Hi! Thanks for the comment - its been about 2 years now and the balance shaft is working perfectly. The engine runs excellent and the increase in noise/vibration is so minimal that most people wont notice.
Can a worn pump tensioner cause low pressure?
To be honest, I dont think so. BUT a worn tensioner can fail and throw off the chain, causing the pump to quit and catastrophically affecting oil pressure. Great question, thank for asking!
@@beerwrenchgarage
No worries.
The tensioner is quite worn in my engine and it's making the chain looser because it cuts 1-2 mm into the plastic. I couldn't torque down the bolt for the pump after inspecting the pump. It would just skip the teeth when I tried to do the initial torque of 20 Nm.
And the low pressure problem is really strange because it only occurs during slowdown and only sometimes. Hot idle is fine.
Any updates on the oil pressure?
Not yet. I've driven the car for a few miles with no oil pressure light. Have not hooked up a mechanical gauge yet as Im sorting out some drivetrain issues/waiting on parts. Will update as soon as I get everything together.
ruclips.net/video/cctQFoGDniM/видео.html
How was ordering the wasa free wheel? Ordering with bank info can’t figure out.
Zero issues. On the WASA website, they have an option to pay by credit card. I bought freewheel just like any other transaction online. To be honest, I was actually surprised at how quick it arrived (within 2 weeks).
Where’s the update though
Ive been waiting to make a video on it. But I'll give an update here: I've currently got just under 500 miles on the engine with no oil pressure light. Have not put the mechanical gauge on for readings yet - but am planning to make a video of that and a compression test. No issues with the engine - she runs great (knock on wood). There is a slight increase in vibration from the balance shaft not being present though.
ruclips.net/video/cctQFoGDniM/видео.html
Did you block the balancers when you put the wasa gear
No, didn’t block the balance shaft - that’s what the WASA sprocket does - the outside of the sprocket spins with the chain and inside keeps the balance shaft stationery.
How do you set timing on balance shaft?
Sorry for taking a while to reply. First, the engine (crank) needs to be at TDC, then the oil pump sprocket with the sharp teeth has a skinny line mark on it. The mark on the sprocket need to be essentially pointing down (or up) on the crank, at that point jam a punch between the teeth of the sprocket and the body of the pump to immobilize the sprocket/chain, then you can tighten the bolt for the sprocket. If you need that specific section from the manual, email me (beerwrenchkc@gmail.com) and I will get it to you.
If you don't do impersonations of Adam Sandler - you're missing out.
Hahaha! You're the 2nd person thats compared me to Adam Sandler recently.
Nice video......
Thanks for watching!
How is your oil pressure with the WASA ballance shaft delete?
Excellent question. I havent driven the car yet. I will update once Im able to get some miles on her.
@@beerwrenchgarage Cool thanks.
@@beerwrenchgarage still not running?
@@psiturbo Yes - Yes it is! Sorry I didnt update this particular comment but my channel has the video on running and oil pressure after the WASA delete: Here it is: ruclips.net/video/cctQFoGDniM/видео.html
@@beerwrenchgarage Did you use WASA 3or4 oil squirters?