Correct. The check valve is the issue that permits pressure in the assembly and blows out the diaphragm. Even Changing to a “severe duty “ diaphragm valve will not cure the issue as pressure should not be in the assembly Install a new assembly. Then Install an extra inline one way valve in the line between intake and pcv as a preliminary check valve. Helps hold the high boost spikes from sharp pressure hits when tuned.
Man this guy makes some of the most informative mechanics videos on RUclips. I absolutely love the level of detail he goes into. Much love from the UK 🇬🇧
Mine was letting air in. Replaced the whole unit. Fixed my turbo underboost. Fixed my oil leaks. Fixed my vacuum leak. Fixed my rough idle. Fixed my lean mixture. Fixed my misfire. Dude. This PCV valve on Audis is so complicated and so detrimental to this car in every aspect. Thank God I cought this before I went and fixed other expensive things
I agree and I simply don't understand why they keep using these complicated valves. I've worked on two Volkswagens and both developed oil leaks and ran shitty presumably from excess crankcase pressure.
Naptown Tuner ... you are THE MAN. Bought my son a very well-maintained B8 for his college graduation, and we're watching your videos to sort a few issues. You have a gift as a mechanic, but frankly, even moreso as a teacher.
I’ve owned gti model golf’s since 2004. Learned a lot from this. Been seeing a lot of talk about pcv and crankcase pressure. So I wanted to understand it a little better
Hi NaptownTuner. YES, thanks to you I fixed my '11 GTI and got the check-engine light to go out. I already did the new diaphragm and cap, from your other video, but it did not fix it. Then I saw this video and I did the blow-in/suck-out test as you demonstrated. No resistance in either direction. Will save that new cap/diaphragm/spring for a future spare. New PCV assembly was the fix. THANK YOU!!
I love your commitment to understand what is going on with those things. Really useful, under-boost or over-boost issues. Most people just look at the turbo. The quena man!
Men, im from Brazil and i do not founded a information specific like that. Thank you so much. Im with a Audi A3 2014 in my office with p0068 and now i can see whats happening. Thanks from Brazil, bro
Kudos to your dedication demonstrating the mechanism of the check valve. Today I fixed the P2187 problem by replacing the PCV valve assembly AND the short hose attached to the port you blew into. When buying the PCV valve assembly, I highly recommend purchasing the one that comes with the hose.
This was one of the best educational videos so far. That valve is VERY complex and you can create several more videos on its functions. It is not as simple as it looks.
I love that you explain my car specifically and just gives me a better understanding of all Audis and their basics. Thank you so much brotha I really appreciate your videos
I’ve changed coil and plugs , Maf sensor, throttle body and fuel injectors . Rough morning start and engine light came back on next is the pcv valve . 2016 Audi A5 . You helped me get through some rough project.
2014 TT owner here (2.0 TFSI). Researching my $3,000 upper/lower cam timing (and timing belt) replacement job got me turned onto this channel. Really digging it so far. I know some things about cars but really appreciate the second opinion on whats the garage's been telling me
You are amazing!...My tiguan is from 2011 and during these days it started throwing bluish smoke from the engine exhaust, I was about to disassemble the turbo, I thought the turbo seals were blown and it is pumping oil in the intake, I did the try to blow the PCV that you do in this video, (it tastes disgusting after 100K Miles), but it was worth it!!!! I discovered that it was not working correctly, I clarify it is the original from the factory, I touch change and for now, although it remains to be tested, it does not smoke anymore so I think it should work, but I wanted to thank you for sharing this work that has helped me not to waste in parts not necessarily, that I have to change.
As painful as the broken belt has been, it provided a good opportunity to film some unique 2.0T content for you. Keep filming NT! Near the end of this video I think you summarized most of the damage I've seen it caused, but you forgot one - the broken wiring harness. That broken belt fiasco would have been quite an expensive repair at the dealership. Love this one, I have tested mine out a long time ago but never knew how much, if any, air gogin through would be ok. Seeing the lower mileage ones with NO air bypass (when blowing) is a great comparison - thanks!
Had that happening on a mercedes w204, it ALSO snapped the transmission oil pipes that go to the radiator. The serpentine belt damage is equally catastrophic
This is the best explanation of how these things work. I am now dealing with a blown crank seal because of the failed oil separator. I will be making this a yearly inspection item on the wife's car.
I've just replaced the PCV valve in my 5 year old 125,000 mile VW Golf 1.5 TSi (it's a European car). What a difference. Engine idles quieter, engine far smoother, fuel economy better. The parts man at the Parts Dept of my VW garage said there's been a couple of revisions of the valve. Well worth the £92, about $120, I paid for it. (I fitted it myself)
Great video. My engine management light came on and it was diagnosed as this part. The idle was sometimes fluctuating on revs and it sounded rather unhealthy. The whole unit was replaced and I was given the old one. Upon doing your blow suck test, the old part seemed perfect. But upon opening the unit up.....yep, the rubber diaphragm was split. Whilst I guess I could of just replaced the rubber diaphragm, the whole unit was only £70 so it's worth while doing.
Yep the main rubber diaphragm is just one of many things this module performs.. agree that whole assembly needs to be replaced at 50k. Yep that side is a check valve to close off the intake when there’s boost pressure and when naturally aspirated it opens to allow vacuum to pull in blow by to re burn .. I’d imagine a faulty check valve would create much more valve deposits and misfire, too rich codes..etc. really educational video as always .. I think the AK version is the one with the green valve before that update it was all black
Wow dude you are an intelctual person . I understood very well of your explanation of the Problem txt that I am going through with my 2006 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 Turbo. Excellent job on explaining and hands on Teaching. I learned a lot thank you so much God-bless. Well done
Us 2.0T owners owe you big time👍🏽 always useful info that is hard to find from techs and online forums im gonna replace my PCV to see if it helps my consumption any
I know it’s been two years and idk how this was recommended, but I replaced the diaphragm on my younger brothers 2.0 years ago for making noise. Now I’m thinking about replacing the whole thing, I’ve been driving it and it seems pretty sluggish in boost. Thank you for this video, awesome job man!
Wow & thanx for going the full MONTY DUDE, love the way you spent time explaining how the system works. You blow my mind and enjoyed every moment. Thank you again. Ashley South Africa.
Excellent job done. Thanks. I hope this video outing in forward could solve the problem that I have when I raise upper than 3000 RPM IDDLE FINE BOOST COMES A LIGHT ON
That would probably explain why some of those aftermarket oil catch cans don't work quite as well. I Didn't understand the functionality until now. Thanks for the amazing content 👍
Absolute awesome videos definitely appreciate you and others like you who were out making great informational content to avoid ridiculous dealer repair costs for those of us brave enough to try to wrench on our own
Muito agradecido pela verdadeira aula de mecânica. Aqui no Brasil existe uma cultura de trocar somente o diafragma principal, porque não entendem o funcionamento da válvula. Vou multiplicar o que você ensinou por aqui! Deus abençoe sua vida!!!
2016 Q5 2.0T, ran great with 0 oil consumption for 85K, overnight it went to using a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so but performance was great, no smoke at all, no leaks, didn't make sense. I watched your video and convinced me this might be the culprit. So I changed my oil, the PCV/Oil Separator (hoping that will solve the consumption issue). The diaphragm still looked good but that isn't the only part that fails as you demonstrated. If my consumption stops, I'll do a video on the consumption linking your video for the explanation, I'm feeling positive that it will. Thanks, Great video!
Don't ya hate it when these weasels make bold commitments nobody asked them to make, only to completely forget about them because they're always full of gobshite... When your consumption is a quart every 1000mi or less; replace Coils, Plugs, PCV, Fuel Injectors, and have the mechanic do a compression test/diagnostic test to see what else is going wrong. Regardless of how much Audi claims their engines should consume, NO car engine should consume that much oil, that fast. @@xchaoticghostx6574
2011 B8 150k had a P2187 code on OBD2 scanner and random misfire codes on VCDS. Replaced the PCV module as a whole. The old one was original body that already had a Dorman snap on done at some point. After watching the video which was Awesome like always and the old module failed the “blow” check. Really happy to be able to identify the problem of the old module. Thanks!
I have a 2013 VW CC 2.0 turbo that gives whitish smoke if I really romp on it, and increased oil consumption (about 1 quart every 2000 miles). I have a VW shop telling me to replace the turbo, but multiple videos showing the possibility of this valve failure, which may increase oil consumption. I think I will have this replaced first before doing anything else. So many thanks to all you guys showing us these problems.
@@ingr4m Have not done that yet. My 80-year old mom required 24 hour care for 4 weeks, vomiting daily, then we got notice toove in 60 days owner sold condo, just made a cross country move, not sure when I will get to this.
@@daveys35 Hi Daveys, hope you and your mom is doing better now. I recently bought an Audi S3 which also gives whitish smoke (a lot) if i romp it. Did changing the PCV fix it for you?
Thanks for posting, it helped me. My Passat B6 2009 1.8 TSI (BZB) engine was shaking badly in the morning after a very cold night outside and had misfire error codes. In the end, the PVC was ok, but the crankshaft seal to the gearbox was leaking. I think the PVC froze and built up pressure. I replaced the PCV (OEM VW) and the sealing ring (reinforced version) as well as the clutch at the same time (yes, the gearbox had to come out of course, grrr). Now the engine is running better than before. Best regards from southern Germany
I enjoy watching and learning from you. I just got my first 2011 a5 Quattro 2.uh oh ! I know I’m in for a rollercoaster ride with it but I’m fine with it. All your info from your vids are great ! Thanks.
I love learning how valves/parts etc actually work. Its not enough to know which part is faulty but to know why its faulty. Keep upu the good work dude
Nice to understand how that PVC valve system works. I am new to Audi 2.0 Turbo. I just had that changed by a shop and paid a lot of money. Oil change too. Found out later they over filled oil by 2 quarts. But I caught it that night before any damage to my car. I will never go back to they again. I think they just were looking for my money. Cause me engine damage for them to look like a hero! They are not even a dealership just a place that specializes in foreign cars. Thanks for the good videos!!
Such an oversight with an actual integral part of the turbo system. I immediately replaced this part after watching this and boom! I have wayyyyy better throttle response and the car holds boost so much better. I’m on a stage 1 tune and was wondering what the hell was up with the loss of power. Night and day difference after replacement. Still throwing a code for the IMRC though and plan to replace that soon too!
I had all kinds of codes on my 2013 VW CC for a long time, 103k miles, and bought a diaphragm top AND the entire assembly on Amazon. I could not get the damn top off the assembly even after removing the entire assembly, it broke in half. But sure enough the diaphragm had multiple tears! I swapped the entire breather assembly and the engine light went Off all by itself and it runs much smoother! We'll see how long the $30 breather assembly lasts! I kept the old assembly and will probably clean it, do the blow/suck test, and put the new diaphragm on, in case the $30 one fails...haha
There's zero comparison between you and other RUclipsrs to explain what's actually happening. For one, I've been questioning my pcv for a while. I seen your finger tip test but now I just witnessed you doing the blow test. I've not seen or heard of anyone doing this before. You deserve more respect than you gain. You're just awesome 😎👍. I do ponder. I don't have a terrible idle, but on a cold start and it rests on the idle. I get blips / judders. Random. Could this be the pcv? Cheers.
You are so right my breather hose that’s from pcv connected to my intake pipe is pulling oil into my engine I will definitely replace it thank you so much
I just started watching bro and you educated me in the way I love thanks just replaced coils and plugs and still shaking so I’m guessing it’s the crankshaft
Thanks so much for this video!! I replaced one of those valves on a 2017 1.8. it was leaking oil, misfiring, etc. I really wanted to know how the damn thing works. You're the first one that I've seen rip one apart and explain it. Why on Earth does Volkswagen use a part like that that can cause so much damage to the engine. It just seems like a really bad design to me! How do other manufacturers handle crankcase ventilation with turbos? I get the need for a robust system to handle the changing pressures due to the boost, but there must be a better system out there that doesn't constantly fail.
For the new folks finding this here, there's an official TSB from VW telling techs to blow on the hose to diagnose PCV failure. No need to suck. Just blow.
I would recommend searching out Chris Martino from ADAS LI, that man has found things' that even VAG of American didn't know with the pvc systems. When it comes to the EA888 I haven't seen anyone understand them like him. I remember talking to him about the pcv diagram hole and he said that not only do different revision have different size holes but they are also tired to the pcm updates. When he called VAG of America he was told to talk to an engineer and they didn't even know. When he was talked to the guy in Germany he was told the reason is not important just do as the repair as the manual tells you.
I put a catch can on the inatke side of mine. Im not paying 200 to 400 bucks for a kit. I ordered a cheap catch can and cut the plastic hoses off the fittings. As im makimg this system i didnt want boost going into my catch can so im using an inline pcv before the catch can. Double insurance for boost getting into the engine
Good work on the pcv. Iv been thinking of adapting one of these to my rb30 nissan 6 cylinder as the nissan uses just a basic pcv with no oil separation. The rb30 is in a 1987 Holden vl turbo in Australia.
I put a new factory pcv on my 2012 2.0 turbo, oil still flows out of the pcv into the intake manifold and flows through the throttle body and down the intake tube. This puts the car into a limp mode. At that point the check engine light and EPC light are on at the same time.
So I have a 2015 Audi Q5, 2.0T, and its using a lot of oil, like a quart every 600 miles. It has 88K miles now, been driving it since 16K, about 4 years. It uses less oil during highway driving. There are no other signs of problems, it drives just fine. The oil separator has never been changed. I suspect this is the problem, or the main problem. The dealer, and Audi customer service swear there is no such issue. I think I am going to change my oil separator next week.
You would either laugh or cry 2018 Golf R 25000 kms had issues with misfire and rough idle so finally after some research some from you and others I set my eyes on pcv replacement but the thing is dude its been doing this for atleast 10k on a new engine so im a lil worried about dmg...
Recently purchased a 17 q5 with a 2.0t bought it used it was perfectly fine, needed some oil figured I would add some oil added castrol edge euro 5w 40 My car started smoking and threw me these code you mention
This was great! I replaced that diaphragm but am still seeing a lot of oil consumption and oil in my intercooler piping. Guess I’m going to be replacing the whole thing next! At 134k miles currently
@@AngelRodriguez-jv6oc it only reduced my oil consumption. I don’t get the puff of smoke anymore on hard acceleration but it’s still using oil. I haven’t put enough miles on it yet to fully determine. I will be back to my normal driving habits next week and can update you then.
@@bryani8973 still using a lot of oil unfortunately. I can see that there is oil spray coming from the connection between the pcv and the intake tube. Going to put in a one way valve in there as someone else did tomorrow during my oil change. If that doesn’t work, I may put in the catch can kit that replaces the pcv valve all together with the aluminum plate and catch can.
My Tiguan was running badly and getting oil in the turbo system. Turned out that the little round valve in the PCV/ oil separator was missing. It was sucking oil into the turbo and blowing it through the intercooler.
VW used the black cap separator/regulator until 2018, Audi switched to the clear in 2012 and VW has way worse carbon issues. According to what I read, the clear cap deposits way smaller oil molecules than the black and doesn’t create as much vacuum. VW’s have a failure that causes a whistle from the front and rear crank seals. Excessive vacuum sucks them in. 21+ Tiguans have a new design with a smaller diaphragm and pressure sensor (it’s on the new evo4 engine too). It has a failure that puts boost on the crankcase. Causes oil leaks from the plastic pan and upper timing cover. One I replaced actually cracked the oil pan. What people don’t realize when they put catch cans on these, that oil separator system is a catch can and it puts the oil back in to the engine not in to an external storage bottle.
1. You MUST pressure test the entire plumbing by filling the compressor cover with boost pressure using an air compressor. There is a video DIY how-to in my channel where I do this on my 5.3L Turbo application. 2. To get around crap OEM pcv valves that leak I always use Toyota Supra 1995-02 Twin Turbo PCV valve. Place in-line with current pcv system from intake to crankcase. Use two for added flow if needed in parallel. Make sure as part of pressure testing (#1) you verify the pcv valve is closing fully under boost. 3. Always measure the crankcase pressure to ensure PCV action sufficient. There is also a DIY How-to in my channel using 1-bar map sensor and 5v source. The biggest problem with PCV and people is they do not measure the crankcase pressure. They do not realize that is takes energy to drive fluids through hoses. They do not realize that the PCV system depends on air filter pressure drop (post filter pressure drop) to Drive evacuation during WOT. It must be measured and set manually by the end user if you are modifying the engine.
Just replaced a front crank seal. Noticed an oil leak under the crank pulley and checked the PCV (10 years old) and yep, boost was bleeding through the check valve as the valve failed. Think I caught it early enough to not cook the rear main seal as the valve still had a little bit of resistance.
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
You just demonstrated that the diaphragm repair kits aren’t worth buying because the check valves fail elsewhere. You are the king!
where is your mechanic shop i am in columbus indiana and i have problems with a 2010 audi a4
Correct.
The check valve is the issue that permits pressure in the assembly and blows out the diaphragm.
Even Changing to a “severe duty “ diaphragm valve will not cure the issue as pressure should not be in the assembly
Install a new assembly. Then Install an extra inline one way valve in the line between intake and pcv as a preliminary check valve. Helps hold the high boost spikes from sharp pressure hits when tuned.
@@VFORCEJOHN do you have a part number for that extra inline check valve?
@@VFORCEJOHN part number for the inline?
Thank you! I was gonna just buy the repair too! Great channel!
Man this guy makes some of the most informative mechanics videos on RUclips. I absolutely love the level of detail he goes into. Much love from the UK 🇬🇧
Mine was letting air in. Replaced the whole unit. Fixed my turbo underboost. Fixed my oil leaks. Fixed my vacuum leak. Fixed my rough idle. Fixed my lean mixture. Fixed my misfire. Dude. This PCV valve on Audis is so complicated and so detrimental to this car in every aspect. Thank God I cought this before I went and fixed other expensive things
I agree and I simply don't understand why they keep using these complicated valves. I've worked on two Volkswagens and both developed oil leaks and ran shitty presumably from excess crankcase pressure.
First time watching a very detail mechanic - Respect
Naptown Tuner ... you are THE MAN. Bought my son a very well-maintained B8 for his college graduation, and we're watching your videos to sort a few issues. You have a gift as a mechanic, but frankly, even moreso as a teacher.
bad bad purchase! How many miles? And we'll maintained? What do you consider we'll maintained?
@@psiturbowho cares bruh I got a 2011 a4 178k rn I put 17k miles in under 2 years and hasn’t been so bad pretty fun car I’m getting an s4 next
I’ve owned gti model golf’s since 2004. Learned a lot from this. Been seeing a lot of talk about pcv and crankcase pressure. So I wanted to understand it a little better
Hi NaptownTuner. YES, thanks to you I fixed my '11 GTI and got the check-engine light to go out. I already did the new diaphragm and cap, from your other video, but it did not fix it. Then I saw this video and I did the blow-in/suck-out test as you demonstrated. No resistance in either direction. Will save that new cap/diaphragm/spring for a future spare. New PCV assembly was the fix. THANK YOU!!
I love your commitment to understand what is going on with those things. Really useful, under-boost or over-boost issues. Most people just look at the turbo. The quena man!
Men, im from Brazil and i do not founded a information specific like that. Thank you so much. Im with a Audi A3 2014 in my office with p0068 and now i can see whats happening. Thanks from Brazil, bro
Kudos to your dedication demonstrating the mechanism of the check valve. Today I fixed the P2187 problem by replacing the PCV valve assembly AND the short hose attached to the port you blew into. When buying the PCV valve assembly, I highly recommend purchasing the one that comes with the hose.
This was one of the best educational videos so far.
That valve is VERY complex and you can create several more videos on its functions. It is not as simple as it looks.
Found this at random. You're awesome for actually looking into this and trying to understand it fully. Thanks for the detail.
Sacrificing your lungs for science! Much appreciated bro! Best explanation ever on this subject.
I love that you explain my car specifically and just gives me a better understanding of all Audis and their basics. Thank you so much brotha I really appreciate your videos
Absolute legend of a explanation on the pcv valve your explanation is just incredible
I’ve changed coil and plugs , Maf sensor, throttle body and fuel injectors . Rough morning start and engine light came back on next is the pcv valve . 2016 Audi A5 . You helped me get through some rough project.
Did it fix it?
Did it fix it?
2014 TT owner here (2.0 TFSI). Researching my $3,000 upper/lower cam timing (and timing belt) replacement job got me turned onto this channel. Really digging it so far. I know some things about cars but really appreciate the second opinion on whats the garage's been telling me
i got a new engine for less than that lol
You are amazing!...My tiguan is from 2011 and during these days it started throwing bluish smoke from the engine exhaust, I was about to disassemble the turbo, I thought the turbo seals were blown and it is pumping oil in the intake, I did the try to blow the PCV that you do in this video, (it tastes disgusting after 100K Miles), but it was worth it!!!! I discovered that it was not working correctly, I clarify it is the original from the factory, I touch change and for now, although it remains to be tested, it does not smoke anymore so I think it should work, but I wanted to thank you for sharing this work that has helped me not to waste in parts not necessarily, that I have to change.
My guy really knows these cars inside and out 😂 good stuff as always
As painful as the broken belt has been, it provided a good opportunity to film some unique 2.0T content for you. Keep filming NT! Near the end of this video I think you summarized most of the damage I've seen it caused, but you forgot one - the broken wiring harness. That broken belt fiasco would have been quite an expensive repair at the dealership. Love this one, I have tested mine out a long time ago but never knew how much, if any, air gogin through would be ok. Seeing the lower mileage ones with NO air bypass (when blowing) is a great comparison - thanks!
Had that happening on a mercedes w204, it ALSO snapped the transmission oil pipes that go to the radiator. The serpentine belt damage is equally catastrophic
This is the best explanation of how these things work. I am now dealing with a blown crank seal because of the failed oil separator. I will be making this a yearly inspection item on the wife's car.
I've just replaced the PCV valve in my 5 year old 125,000 mile VW Golf 1.5 TSi (it's a European car). What a difference. Engine idles quieter, engine far smoother, fuel economy better. The parts man at the Parts Dept of my VW garage said there's been a couple of revisions of the valve. Well worth the £92, about $120, I paid for it. (I fitted it myself)
Very well explained. Your're a great teacher. Thank you.
Great video. My engine management light came on and it was diagnosed as this part. The idle was sometimes fluctuating on revs and it sounded rather unhealthy.
The whole unit was replaced and I was given the old one.
Upon doing your blow suck test, the old part seemed perfect. But upon opening the unit up.....yep, the rubber diaphragm was split.
Whilst I guess I could of just replaced the rubber diaphragm, the whole unit was only £70 so it's worth while doing.
Not only was it informative..... But it was also entertaining. Thank you
Yep the main rubber diaphragm is just one of many things this module performs.. agree that whole assembly needs to be replaced at 50k. Yep that side is a check valve to close off the intake when there’s boost pressure and when naturally aspirated it opens to allow vacuum to pull in blow by to re burn .. I’d imagine a faulty check valve would create much more valve deposits and misfire, too rich codes..etc. really educational video as always .. I think the AK version is the one with the green valve before that update it was all black
Wow dude you are an intelctual person . I understood very well of your explanation of the Problem txt that I am going through with my 2006 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 Turbo. Excellent job on explaining and hands on Teaching. I learned a lot thank you so much God-bless. Well done
Us 2.0T owners owe you big time👍🏽 always useful info that is hard to find from techs and online forums im gonna replace my PCV to see if it helps my consumption any
Btw i have a CPMA 2.0T, engine build date 02/01/2013, so not sure why i have consumption as i thought it was fixed in late 2012
I know it’s been two years and idk how this was recommended, but I replaced the diaphragm on my younger brothers 2.0 years ago for making noise. Now I’m thinking about replacing the whole thing, I’ve been driving it and it seems pretty sluggish in boost. Thank you for this video, awesome job man!
Wow & thanx for going the full MONTY DUDE, love the way you spent time explaining how the system works. You blow my mind and enjoyed every moment. Thank you again. Ashley South Africa.
Dude, I really needed this exact info in this video. You make incredible videos !!!! I love the details you go through
NAPTOWN TUNER GREAT VID KEEP UP THE GREAT EXPLANATIONS AND TAKING THE TIME TO SHOW IT IN DETAIL
This guy has saved me thousands of dollers and made it even possible for a broke ass too own these cars , thanks brother much love from Toronto Canada
Excellent job done. Thanks. I hope this video outing in forward could solve the problem that I have when I raise upper than 3000 RPM IDDLE FINE BOOST COMES A LIGHT ON
That would probably explain why some of those aftermarket oil catch cans don't work quite as well. I Didn't understand the functionality until now. Thanks for the amazing content 👍
Absolute awesome videos definitely appreciate you and others like you who were out making great informational content to avoid ridiculous dealer repair costs for those of us brave enough to try to wrench on our own
Muito agradecido pela verdadeira aula de mecânica. Aqui no Brasil existe uma cultura de trocar somente o diafragma principal, porque não entendem o funcionamento da válvula. Vou multiplicar o que você ensinou por aqui! Deus abençoe sua vida!!!
You are a saver now i know what to check toconfirm my PCV. Thanks
2016 Q5 2.0T, ran great with 0 oil consumption for 85K, overnight it went to using a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so but performance was great, no smoke at all, no leaks, didn't make sense. I watched your video and convinced me this might be the culprit. So I changed my oil, the PCV/Oil Separator (hoping that will solve the consumption issue). The diaphragm still looked good but that isn't the only part that fails as you demonstrated. If my consumption stops, I'll do a video on the consumption linking your video for the explanation, I'm feeling positive that it will. Thanks, Great video!
So, did it solve the issue ?
Did it fix it?
Yo man let us know what the fuck happened 😂
Don't ya hate it when these weasels make bold commitments nobody asked them to make, only to completely forget about them because they're always full of gobshite...
When your consumption is a quart every 1000mi or less; replace Coils, Plugs, PCV, Fuel Injectors, and have the mechanic do a compression test/diagnostic test to see what else is going wrong.
Regardless of how much Audi claims their engines should consume, NO car engine should consume that much oil, that fast.
@@xchaoticghostx6574
2011 B8 150k had a P2187 code on OBD2 scanner and random misfire codes on VCDS. Replaced the PCV module as a whole. The old one was original body that already had a Dorman snap on done at some point. After watching the video which was Awesome like always and the old module failed the “blow” check. Really happy to be able to identify the problem of the old module. Thanks!
Thank you. Very informative. And thanks for blowing through those valves to educate us.
I have a 2013 VW CC 2.0 turbo that gives whitish smoke if I really romp on it, and increased oil consumption (about 1 quart every 2000 miles). I have a VW shop telling me to replace the turbo, but multiple videos showing the possibility of this valve failure, which may increase oil consumption. I think I will have this replaced first before doing anything else. So many thanks to all you guys showing us these problems.
Hi david. Did the valve replacement fix it for you? If not I'm interested to hear next steps and if that remedied it? Thanks
@@ingr4m Have not done that yet. My 80-year old mom required 24 hour care for 4 weeks, vomiting daily, then we got notice toove in 60 days owner sold condo, just made a cross country move, not sure when I will get to this.
@@daveys35 have you done it now?
My TT got its 3. PVC Valve but it dosent help.
@@daveys35 Hi Daveys, hope you and your mom is doing better now. I recently bought an Audi S3 which also gives whitish smoke (a lot) if i romp it. Did changing the PCV fix it for you?
@@Pwnztankerz Mine turned out to be a turbo oil valve diverter
Thanks for posting, it helped me. My Passat B6 2009 1.8 TSI (BZB) engine was shaking badly in the morning after a very cold night outside and had misfire error codes. In the end, the PVC was ok, but the crankshaft seal to the gearbox was leaking. I think the PVC froze and built up pressure. I replaced the PCV (OEM VW) and the sealing ring (reinforced version) as well as the clutch at the same time (yes, the gearbox had to come out of course, grrr). Now the engine is running better than before. Best regards from southern Germany
I enjoy watching and learning from you. I just got my first 2011 a5 Quattro 2.uh oh ! I know I’m in for a rollercoaster ride with it but I’m fine with it. All your info from your vids are great !
Thanks.
Thanks Naptown Tuner for another great video. Please keep em' coming, let us know how we can show or support.
I love learning how valves/parts etc actually work. Its not enough to know which part is faulty but to know why its faulty. Keep upu the good work dude
Nice to understand how that PVC valve system works. I am new to Audi 2.0 Turbo. I just had that changed by a shop and paid a lot of money. Oil change too. Found out later they over filled oil by 2 quarts. But I caught it that night before any damage to my car. I will never go back to they again. I think they just were looking for my money. Cause me engine damage for them to look like a hero! They are not even a dealership just a place that specializes in foreign cars. Thanks for the good videos!!
I went right to my car and checked it! All good! Great informative video!
Such an oversight with an actual integral part of the turbo system. I immediately replaced this part after watching this and boom! I have wayyyyy better throttle response and the car holds boost so much better. I’m on a stage 1 tune and was wondering what the hell was up with the loss of power. Night and day difference after replacement. Still throwing a code for the IMRC though and plan to replace that soon too!
this guy is in another level with this 2.0 ts
I had all kinds of codes on my 2013 VW CC for a long time, 103k miles, and bought a diaphragm top AND the entire assembly on Amazon. I could not get the damn top off the assembly even after removing the entire assembly, it broke in half. But sure enough the diaphragm had multiple tears! I swapped the entire breather assembly and the engine light went Off all by itself and it runs much smoother!
We'll see how long the $30 breather assembly lasts! I kept the old assembly and will probably clean it, do the blow/suck test, and put the new diaphragm on, in case the $30 one fails...haha
There's zero comparison between you and other RUclipsrs to explain what's actually happening. For one, I've been questioning my pcv for a while. I seen your finger tip test but now I just witnessed you doing the blow test. I've not seen or heard of anyone doing this before. You deserve more respect than you gain. You're just awesome 😎👍. I do ponder. I don't have a terrible idle, but on a cold start and it rests on the idle. I get blips / judders. Random. Could this be the pcv? Cheers.
"your precious boost"
Very useful.
I Like these 2.0T videos!
You are so right my breather hose that’s from pcv connected to my intake pipe is pulling oil into my engine I will definitely replace it thank you so much
EXTREMELY helpful, thanks for the info!
Thanx man, made me laugh at the shit we all deal with on cars!
Genius! Your a blessing and I think the best on RUclips! Thank you!
Another great video. Thanks for the content!
excellent point to test , best THANKS
This is great information. I'm buying the full unit from audi instead I of a rebuild one.
Top Drawer analysis SIR!
Nap I did the pcv diaphragm on my a6 2.0t and it fixed the issue. Thank you brother!
Thank you so much for posting these videos, they are very helpful and informative
bro you are the best guy on the planet
I just started watching bro and you educated me in the way I love thanks just replaced coils and plugs and still shaking so I’m guessing it’s the crankshaft
you are the best, excellent video, we look forward to more
you sir are amazing for posting 2.0t content
This is great. I have a brand new 1 on standby.......need to check it prior to installing it on my 13 q5 with 80k. Thank u so much!
Thanks so much for this video!! I replaced one of those valves on a 2017 1.8. it was leaking oil, misfiring, etc. I really wanted to know how the damn thing works. You're the first one that I've seen rip one apart and explain it. Why on Earth does Volkswagen use a part like that that can cause so much damage to the engine. It just seems like a really bad design to me! How do other manufacturers handle crankcase ventilation with turbos? I get the need for a robust system to handle the changing pressures due to the boost, but there must be a better system out there that doesn't constantly fail.
For the new folks finding this here, there's an official TSB from VW telling techs to blow on the hose to diagnose PCV failure. No need to suck. Just blow.
Really like the way you described
I would recommend searching out Chris Martino from ADAS LI, that man has found things' that even VAG of American didn't know with the pvc systems. When it comes to the EA888 I haven't seen anyone understand them like him.
I remember talking to him about the pcv diagram hole and he said that not only do different revision have different size holes but they are also tired to the pcm updates. When he called VAG of America he was told to talk to an engineer and they didn't even know. When he was talked to the guy in Germany he was told the reason is not important just do as the repair as the manual tells you.
I put a catch can on the inatke side of mine. Im not paying 200 to 400 bucks for a kit. I ordered a cheap catch can and cut the plastic hoses off the fittings. As im makimg this system i didnt want boost going into my catch can so im using an inline pcv before the catch can. Double insurance for boost getting into the engine
We have same problem that's Great information thanks
Good work on the pcv. Iv been thinking of adapting one of these to my rb30 nissan 6 cylinder as the nissan uses just a basic pcv with no oil separation. The rb30 is in a 1987 Holden vl turbo in Australia.
I put a new factory pcv on my 2012 2.0 turbo, oil still flows out of the pcv into the intake manifold and flows through the throttle body and down the intake tube. This puts the car into a limp mode. At that point the check engine light and EPC light are on at the same time.
Exactly the same problem I'm faced with ....
So I have a 2015 Audi Q5, 2.0T, and its using a lot of oil, like a quart every 600 miles. It has 88K miles now, been driving it since 16K, about 4 years. It uses less oil during highway driving. There are no other signs of problems, it drives just fine. The oil separator has never been changed. I suspect this is the problem, or the main problem. The dealer, and Audi customer service swear there is no such issue. I think I am going to change my oil separator next week.
And hey with skills like that, If the mechanic business ever goes south...😊
Love your channel, informative and entertaining.
You would either laugh or cry 2018 Golf R 25000 kms had issues with misfire and rough idle so finally after some research some from you and others I set my eyes on pcv replacement but the thing is dude its been doing this for atleast 10k on a new engine so im a lil worried about dmg...
you might not wanna suck on your pcv valve, but... whatever! this is the best pcv valve video on youtube by far!
Recently purchased a 17 q5 with a 2.0t bought it used it was perfectly fine, needed some oil figured I would add some oil added castrol edge euro 5w 40
My car started smoking and threw me these code you mention
Any help why that happen
love this guy!
This was great! I replaced that diaphragm but am still seeing a lot of oil consumption and oil in my intercooler piping. Guess I’m going to be replacing the whole thing next! At 134k miles currently
Did it work?
@@AngelRodriguez-jv6oc it only reduced my oil consumption. I don’t get the puff of smoke anymore on hard acceleration but it’s still using oil. I haven’t put enough miles on it yet to fully determine. I will be back to my normal driving habits next week and can update you then.
@@davegladys9820 any updates?
@@bryani8973 still using a lot of oil unfortunately. I can see that there is oil spray coming from the connection between the pcv and the intake tube. Going to put in a one way valve in there as someone else did tomorrow during my oil change. If that doesn’t work, I may put in the catch can kit that replaces the pcv valve all together with the aluminum plate and catch can.
My Tiguan was running badly and getting oil in the turbo system. Turned out that the little round valve in the PCV/ oil separator was missing. It was sucking oil into the turbo and blowing it through the intercooler.
VW used the black cap separator/regulator until 2018, Audi switched to the clear in 2012 and VW has way worse carbon issues. According to what I read, the clear cap deposits way smaller oil molecules than the black and doesn’t create as much vacuum. VW’s have a failure that causes a whistle from the front and rear crank seals. Excessive vacuum sucks them in. 21+ Tiguans have a new design with a smaller diaphragm and pressure sensor (it’s on the new evo4 engine too). It has a failure that puts boost on the crankcase. Causes oil leaks from the plastic pan and upper timing cover. One I replaced actually cracked the oil pan. What people don’t realize when they put catch cans on these, that oil separator system is a catch can and it puts the oil back in to the engine not in to an external storage bottle.
Hopefully this solves my issues! Thanks man.
1. You MUST pressure test the entire plumbing by filling the compressor cover with boost pressure using an air compressor. There is a video DIY how-to in my channel where I do this on my 5.3L Turbo application.
2. To get around crap OEM pcv valves that leak I always use Toyota Supra 1995-02 Twin Turbo PCV valve. Place in-line with current pcv system from intake to crankcase. Use two for added flow if needed in parallel. Make sure as part of pressure testing (#1) you verify the pcv valve is closing fully under boost.
3. Always measure the crankcase pressure to ensure PCV action sufficient. There is also a DIY How-to in my channel using 1-bar map sensor and 5v source.
The biggest problem with PCV and people is they do not measure the crankcase pressure. They do not realize that is takes energy to drive fluids through hoses. They do not realize that the PCV system depends on air filter pressure drop (post filter pressure drop) to Drive evacuation during WOT. It must be measured and set manually by the end user if you are modifying the engine.
I always learn something from your vids man, and it's always entertaining also lol
Awesome video. Very important info.
Awesome info, they changed this on my first engine before they fix the piston update, my new engine I don't know, so I am going to kiss my 2.0t :-)
Will McGregor/ Johnson, Its Leonard your friend. Awesome video :)
Thank you Sir! very enlightening.
Thanks mate. You're a Legend!
Great explanation mate, your awesome
great video totally just replaced my pcv to many moving parts but man awesome video
Very well explained. Thank you sir!
Good video, Man. Thanks.
Just replaced a front crank seal. Noticed an oil leak under the crank pulley and checked the PCV (10 years old) and yep, boost was bleeding through the check valve as the valve failed. Think I caught it early enough to not cook the rear main seal as the valve still had a little bit of resistance.