little tip i learned once i started working at vw eric, on vw connectors, push in on the connector while you're pushing out on the little tab, makes a world of difference and they SHLIP right off lol, ive broken way too many using pocket screwdrivers etc and had to replace that small harness
Your knowledge of this engine helped me immensely. I have the same engine in my 2013 Tiguan. I performed your vacuum test, and the engine stalls like yours. Ordering a PCV valve today. Thank you!!
Now I am setting my alarm early to check for SMA videos in the morning. This causes me to have to buy 2 extra cups of coffee at work to stay awake every day. Totally worth it!
Eric, use a couple zip ties to make a loop,slide one under the back and one under the front of the coil. Slip your finger(s) into it and pull up. Comes out much easier. Its how i do all mine.
Great to see you working on a Vw. I notice that a lot of queries on forums where owners have problems are invariably not answered. Sometimes trouble codes have no obvious connection to the problem. Luckily, they are pretty reliable.
Neat trick I picked up: I pull the harness connectors off VAG ignition coils super easily by placing a Swiss army knife cork screw in the lock tab and pulling along with the connector. Pops right off :)
Hi sir. You should definitely find someone who schools folks on Volkswagens, and take the class; well that is if you’re interested in learning about VDubs. My advice: Do it. I’ve seen most of your videos. Very informative, and never boring. You always have a positive attitude, I’ve never seen you curse, at least during your videos; and you definitely know your stuff. You definitely deserve the crown of Box end wrenches and sockets.
Eric you need to get the VCDS from Ross tech, the best for Audi-VW, plus their support is even better. With that tool there is no guessing if you can do a relearn, adaptation, coding or setting monitors.
@@karlzwaschka4905 Yes. Just bought one and used on my 2015 A6 3.0t Quattro. I'll be testing it on my '09 A4 Quattro this coming weekend but I see no reason it won't work.
PCV valves, with a ball and spring, did an elegant job of clearing blowby gasses without needing any electronic control. It's hard to avoid the thought that progressive engineering can be a step backward when you search for parts on an old vehicle like this. Great summary, it's always fun to follow along.
What those old PCV valves didn't do was keep oil and carbon off the backside of the intake valves, and with modern GDI engines that's pretty important.
Unfortunately I see a lot of Volkswagens, so I've seen this problem a lot. BMW also has a similar issue. Tip for VW electrical connectors, push the connector inwards then push down the release tab. Will come undone every time!
Thank you for that tip! I hate that style of interconnected wiring harness for the coils; get one coil connector loose, go fiddle with the next and end up relocking the connector on the previous one!
Wow! I had one sucking that much vacuum making a loud squealing noise on a 2016 Escape. Long story short the customer decided to "modify" the PCV causing this. It was the same thing though I could barely remove the oil cap. Not good at all!
Had my 2008 Golf GTI 2.0T since new. Gave it a stage 1 reflash, aftermarket dogbone mount and insert, and heavier rear sway bar. Every time I get in it and drive I get a huge smile, even after 10years. It's by far the best drive I've ever owned (I'm 68 so have had a lot of different cars) and gets a service once a year always using premium VW502 or newer spec oil. I have replaced the HPFP cam follower once, a couple of DSG services, and a few sets of tyres, one set of brakes and rotors, one battery, timing belt and water pump. Nothing in there indicates this is anything but a high quality product providing immense driving enjoyment. I'm not ready to trade it on anything new. You can stuff your cheap Japanese, Korean, and US cars where the sun don't shine, hehe. I've owned them all before the GTI.
A heavy rear bar is about the best value mod that can be done on any GTi. It balances the turn in response so much better than the "plough ahead factory understeer".
@@ToddKing Haha, I'm 72 now and the GTI is still going strong, it still brings a smile and I still give it plenty when road conditions suit. Hang in there, you can still get one :) When I took delivery of it in 2008 there was a 75yo guy picking up his GTI as well....
@@einfelder8262 I was a Volkswagen Audi tech for over 20 years so I know all about them. Great cars though they can be high maintenance and not cheap to do so. It's good to hear you still are airing it out. Keep tearing it up.
Replacing the PCV valve/oil separator peice is NOT necessary- IF you replace the peice correctly. The key is to use the OEM rubber diaphragm peice. Not the cheap dorman type you mentioned. I replaced MY diaphragm, and rebuilt mine. 20k miles later - NOT a problem. I may be the rare ones who got lucky. you do NOT have to replace this whole piece. of course its' easier to just replace the whole part, but for $30, I fixed the problem....thaks for your videos. also I dida pcv bypass and put a oil/water catch can in, and it's catching all the moisture and spent fuel/oil that's not being recirculated backinto the turbo - ANOTHER huge recommendation.
I bought the product Fixd because people are not aware of my 2013 VW CC turbo at garages. Dealerships wanted 185.00 to diagnose. I paid 60.00 you should look at some videos. Product is unreal at all their features!
Finally a real car on SMA! LOOL! 😂😂 That OTC is slooooooow! A real doctor like Dr O operates on anything,Euro trash included! Well done Dr O and thank you for the video! 👍
15:38 "don't break, don't break", LOL! I hear ya Eric - I like VWs, but hate their plastic parts! More VW & Audi videos Eric - this was great! many repairs can still be made without Vag-Com using a generic scan
No oil leaks while that problem was there. LOL. I have an A4 B7 and have a tool box just for it. But, it's a fantastic car to drive, just that you must do the maintenance or suffer the consequences. I second the Rosstech VCDS recommendation.
This vehicle does not have a valve cover gasket or spark-plug tube seals. It uses a special VW green silicone, P/N: D154103A1. Also the valve cover is the camshaft retaining frame and integrates in itself the cam bearings. This frame is unique to the cylinder head and if you put any other frame, the engine will seize. The "valve cover"/retaining frame is not available as a separate part as it is married to the cylinder head and if you brake it, you must buy a new cylinder head. Also, Eric, there is a special tool to remove the coils on all audi/VW models. Tool number: T40039
Panhead49EL Easy Panhead...someone has to fix VeryWrong's to make them run right and Eric is 1 of the best candidates as he loves learning and teaching us at same time.
Looked to be an easy job. Everything easy to get to. Didn't have dozens of hoses, wires, and brackets blocking. I've read through many of the comments. It appears that most don't like VWs. I'm finishing up a 2000 golf diesel. Rebuilt the front suspension and had to pull intake manifold. Heavy blockage, carbon build-up. 398,000 on it. It ran good before I started on it. Should be like new.
That Amount of vacuum is Impressive with the oil cap and the dipstick not good But Impressive and wow at the Whistle sounds coming from air rushing in the rear main seal good Demonstration and video Eric O @7:05 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Just had one of these done on my 2009 VW Tiguan...Called an oil separator....the sound it was making was horrendous and didn't sound at all like it was coming from that area...thought my engine was a gonner. Had that belt squealing/metal on metal scrapping sound...I didn't have a code reader at the time and had other things I knew were needed....leaking water pump. They also replaced my air intake manifold gasket covered under warranty to 120k surprisingly but I was thankful for that because they were able to reduce the cost of the water pump replacement because you have to take the intake off to get to the water pump. If I had known with a code reader that it was that oil separator I could have easily fixed it myself and saved about $300. It cost about $500 to have it done (ridiculous). My recommendation is to not buy a used VW ever! They don't make them with serviceability in mind for anyone especially a DIY guy. Also as you said the plastic is horrible everywhere on the vehicles. In my opinion that cheap plastic is a very planned/calculated failure. Especially when you make water pump housings that fails over and over and common out of that cheap plastic... My choices - Toyota, Honda, Lexus or Acura ONLY!
Huh. Even a guy who rarely works on VW has still seen this pattern failure enough times that he already knows what part to order as soon as it hits the bay. Fancy that.
Translation the VW pvc design is 100% defective. So the sample size to see the defect of 3 cars is more than enough to expect the defect it is not a matter of if it will fail but when.
Europeans do things differently than Domestic, Japanese and Koreans. Strange too! That Volks Wagon sounded like a diesel! Still.......Great Video! Learned something new.
Love to help but I only ever see these with Diesel engines! Ross tech is a good source of info and that German/Canadian chap we know 😉 Did you try the Autel on it, depending on model you don't always have to select the VW channel numbers just select Advanced Measurements and all your PID's are there. Seen the same squealing valve cover on Vauxhall Astra's over here. Nice work 👍
Happen to come across this video recently because of my girlfriends 2010 VW CC. With 2.0T, this car has some serious punch but what the engineers don't understand is that putting a huge amount of air compression and high pressure fuel injection into an engine with a plastic intake manifold is not going to end well. That translates to the customer (my girlfriend) and the customer's boyfriend (me) as follows: Intake manifold failure. Remove/replace. Timing chain tensioner failure, resulting in catastrophic engine damage (engine was replaced). Transmission beginning to weep and sob its ruby red tears of hydraulic fluid. ALL.UNDER.50K.MILES!!!! If I were German, my overall rating of VW is Lugen stuck schiebe!
I am not a VW fan (far from it), but timing chain tensioner fails usually is because of too long oil change intervals. Don't believe VW and change the oil twice as often as indicated by VW.
@@ronaldderooij1774 not the case with us. I change the oil religiously, at old-school intervals (as in, every 3 to 5K miles) with top shelf stuff--Royal Purple oil & Bosch filter)
That rear main seal's days are numbered, that vacuum leak probably started to delaminate the seal from its hold down plate. Wouldn't be surprised if it came back with the same faults and an oil leak! Gravy job tho, even more so if it's not 4motion
Other notable features (in real life) are: excellent driveability, easily tuned, chain tensioners that fail, plastic water pumps that fail, hopelessly inept PVC system, extreme intake valve carbon fouling, terrible rear main seal design, unknown engine check lights that the dealer cannot solve, and a myriad of plastic parts that leak or fail, coil packs that fail, cheap connectors that become brittle and break... I only wish the Germans could have made it more complicated. and, I'm sure they're working on that.
I have new injectors, new variable valve timing sensor, new sparks, fully rebuilded engine, new timing chain, new dual mass flywheel, dsg clutch pack and 2 years old mechatronics :) and it's still shaky on cold. When it worm up (15 sec) and revs will drop below 1000 rpm. It works ok and only each 5-7 sec I can feel some ticks.
What I've seen also with the vw's. that pcv valve thing goes bad, and on the turbo ones it causes boost pressure to go into the crank case. Witch causes the rear main to blow out, literally. It turns the whole engine to a leak pit. Ive repaired two now so far, they will also cause lean fuel trims until the rear main is fixed
Very interesting pcv system I don't work on Bmw's Or VW's I'm used to the Good old PCV right angle tubes with a Hose thanks for sharing Eric O very entertaining @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
That was a Good one, every day's a school day, about clearing codes on VW, if you blow a fuse for the wipers, say they freeze up, after renewing the fuse, you have to go and clear the code from the PCM,
awesome vidjeo. my first paid gig after i got my certs was an audi a8 100k, including the timing belt. the one car line that puckers me up a bit still. when i buy cars at the auction, i avoid certain manufacturers.
You should not have fixed it, put a hose on it and run it as a vacuum cleaner^^ Joking aside, as a German I think those VW designs are often hilarious. But this PCV system is actually a pretty clever design because it does prevent oil from getting onto the back of the valves, which is a major problem for direct injecion engines. What confuses me is their strategy when it comes to picking materials. The valve cover is aluminum (which is becoming rare), but many of the hose clamps and connectors are made of cheap crappy plastic. But although I really do not like VWs at all, let's face it: all car manufacturers have flaws, and especially on such repair channels you only get to see the stuff that breaks. That can deliver a wrong impression.
Always always always check the rear main seal after replacing those PCV assemblies. The two go hand in hand on the Audi side, not sure if it's as common on VW. I've only ever used the factory scan tool to run the drive cycle, but it's always called "Readiness Code". They do run an open and closed loop, so I'm not sure why your scan tool was saying open loop. I want to say it would be listed under "CL Status" on the OEM data, but don't hold me to it. Did you get a water pump job out of it too?
In the constant search for better fuel economy and performance with lower emissions, the internal combustion engine is reaching its limits, as demonstrated in the evolution of the simple PCV valve. I see electric cars as a partial solution. Oil companies will not like it, but it is much easier to monitor and control the emissions of generating stations than to monitor millions of polluting vehicles. While many (myself included) will miss the fuel burners, the upside is that engineers should be able to focus on handling and safety to a greater degree. Europe is leading the way on this.
Eric...if you are going to pick up more VW/Audi work, I would strongly suggest investing in the VAGCOM software. It is specifically for VW products. And it will let you initiate a drive cycle.
Yeah I do not see many of them and I should have done a follow up video the Autel was able to run the forced monitor test and worked well. But you are right if I do a lot I should get one!
So ....the infamous P0171 at idle.... am a former 28 yr Toyota MDT. Have had 3 separate CC 2.0's that simply have made me feel like a Diagnostic child. Last one has had PCV/Valve cover, Intake Manifold, Brake booster, O2 sensors, injectors, throttle body...installed at the local FolksVagen dealer has completely drawn a blank after $3000 worth of parts thrown at it. At least you my friend....have helped some
Old comment but you can remove the vacuum supply to that separator and watch the fuel trims. If they normalize then you're probably sucking in air from the rear main seal or some other part on the engine.
I had no clue what a "triple square" was until 15 months ago when I repaired my buddy's daughter's '06 Jetta. It ain't no Torx I'll tell ya that! :D It does look like 3 squares equally spaced over one another - how about that? :) Thing was puking oil like crazy .. out the vacuum pump! I couldn't wrap my head around the fact a gas engine had a vacuum pump ... and then I just recently found GM trucks have them now too! What is this world coming to ... Anyway .. service manual says to yank tranny to replace pump! I uttered something about the Nope Nope Train going to some "expletive" That-Ville town ... and just removed the (don't know what it's called) from the shift shaft on top of the tranny, yanked the pump apart (which they said not to do) and loaded it up with Permatex Right Stuff, & reassembled. No more leak! Did a full brake job, and also replaced one hub bearing. Had to buy a couple sets of triple square sockets for that one. VWs are odd creatures!
Yeah I have a customer with a 2.5 with the vacuum pump and same thing. you can pull it apart after removing the trans range sensor and fix it right in place :D
THAT'S the part I couldn't remember - range sensor! I swear I have 2 brain cells - one's lost and the other is trying to find it ... :D Yep, was the same engine on the Jetta - naturally aspirated 2.5 .
Volvo has same issue with their pcv. Check engine light usually will come back on. Only way to prevent it from coming back on is to reset adaptive memory ie disconnect ECM or battery. Driving the car can take as many as 3 days for light to go off. Also if you have vida subscription that will reset adaptive memory. Nice work.
My daughter has a 2001 Jetta MKIV 1.8T wolfsburg... with NO Check Engine Light! Shhhh... I hope it didn't see me typing this... It's a freaking unicorn for sure! You don't want to know the amount of man-hours and the list of parts it took me to achieve this... It sure is a pleasure to drive when it's working though (rarely).
I think the closed loop issues is with the OTC, not the car, they go into closed loop very fast normally. FYI we do at least 10 crank case vents a month. If you need any info or help on VW just let me know:) or you know Thomasexovcds too:)
One of my favorite customers has a 2009 Tiguan with the two point slow. Came in with multiple issues like this one and it did have a few weak coils and original plugs. Replaced all four plugs and coils, performed Italian tune up and it drove great for a few hundred miles before it started acting up again. No lean codes but the plugs were awfully white.
I used to work for a shop that worked exclusively on European cars. Every since brand of Euro car has issues with their crankcase vent. These not only cause lean running codes and major oil consumption issues (with can destroy the engine through not only oil starvation but also due to extreme detonation due to sucking in tons of oil vapor under load), but can also cause oil leaks, especially on turbo cars. Manifold vacuum turns to Manifold boost under a load and it will put full boost pressure into the crankcase. I've seen crank seals literally blown and and removed from their home in the engine because of CCV faults. At my shop, EVERY car that had an oil leak from anywhere got the crankcase vacuum checked during the diagnostic process.
I replace my PCV setup on my 2016 Jetta 1.8 Turbo with a catch can just eliminate all that plus helps with the carbon on the backside of the valves with the direct injection I absolutely love that car though and nice video man keep up the good work
Love the videos, Eric, and your explanation of things ...curious if you have ever had the privilege of doing either of the BMW 3.0L or 4.4L crankcase/PCV system?
Always check rear main seals on these 2.0 when oil separator fails will cause rear make to blow out and can cause lean codes see it all the time at the dealer
Eric, according to RUclips's Humble Mechanic, to open a VW dealership in the US, the franchise needs to buy $600,000USD VW specialty tools to commence trade. So you did well to find the problem, regards Stewart, Australia
That is common of most makes. They all have special tools, a couple scan tools and specific space requirements before they will let you open. The catch to that is that the dealer only needs ONE set of all those tools in the shop, regardless of the size of the shop. That is why each tech ends up buying the special tools they use and their own scan tool. Needing to "wait in line" for the scan tool can kill your day...
Eva Gillies Yeah, to open a dealership, not to work on them. There are a ton of specialty seal installers and such that are not necessary for 95% of the work. Ross-tech makes a very adequate VAG scanner that's fairly inexpensive. Do not think that you need anywhere near that much investment to actually work on them.
Michael Gleason Yeah I agree, my comment was about VW's requirement for a dealership. When the Humble Mech made that statement he was comparing the specialty tool differences with Asian cars in a conversation with Eric the car guy. As far as the after market tools for VW in the US, I wouldn't know, as I reside in Australia. However, I have heard from a local mechanical engineer, buying a VW is dangerous for your wallet, as VW customer service sucks, and Australia dosen't have Lemon Laws for new cars, Regards.
Hey man, vw’s operate in the same way as ford and the rest. The fuel system will switch from open to closed loop as soon as the ecu receives a signal from the lambda sensor. This will happen as soon as the sensor is hot enough and begins generating a signal. A brand new car can switch from open to closed within one minute of startup. An older car or older sensor may take 2-3 mins. If it takes longer then the sensor is lazy. If it doesn’t switch to closed loop then usually the sensor is knackered. You can check with your scope. Also remember if sensor 1 is cooked sensor 2 will still tell the ecu that the car you just repaired is now running very rich. I believe sensor 2 does influence the ecu somewhat on fuel trimming although sensor 1 (regulating probe) is the main boy for that.
Great video! I'd for sure reach out and pick Charles', (a.k.a. The Humble Mechanic) brain for any VW's. So are you actively searching for someone to fill in while Josh is going off to college? Maybe Keith out on Staten Island has someone "dying" to move out of the city and be a country mechanic, lol.
Hi Eric. I have a vw golf 1.8 tsi and of course it has a problem after 136k. When I am driving at low speed and release the gas pedal let's say before I make a full stop, weird noise is coming from engine, like something is loose (rattling noise like a metal cover hitting other parts) I did inspect underneath it but can't find anything. It happens only when I release the gas pedal at any speed between 15km/h and 60 km/h. Thank you
I'm not sure if your snap on Verus has the feature to set the readiness monitors ( try the expert mode) VCDS may be able to do it depending on the chassis, it's usually 01 engine and then cleared the codes, go back and go to readiness 15 . If the vehicle you are working on has the feature to set monitors, it will be highlighted on the left bottom corner and just follow each step. It may take up to 20 mins to set the monitors.
Bro blessed up am a auto mechanic i like how yu share that video educating other young inspired mechanic keep up the good job , final do yu have any used car lift for sale
@@geraldsanford2411 ah don't worry. The Skoda Octavia is just a hair smaller than this car but gets 115hp 1litre turbo 3cyl. Two lads can get in the engine bay and lift the engine out if need be. 😂
That was a great video Eric o but seams like everyone has an ideal on what you should of done Lol. But I like it your way you done a great job see ya next time!!!!!!!!!
Always great videos! Best on RUclips!! Keep going at the VW's @Eric - you'll get there. ;) I have a slight rough idle on my '98 Golf Cabrio 1.6 AFT 190k km. (nothing obvious, nothing fixes it) If you can help me fix that I'll buy you a beer next time you're in the Algarve.
Also check for oil leaks, rear main seal are common on the 2.0l the upper timing cover seal working for vw usually when breather valve goes bad rear main seal also leaks
You see the millions of vacuum hoses on the older 1.8T's, looks like they've cleaned some of that up with these newer engines. I'm a BMW and GM guy so those aren't quite as bad.
little tip i learned once i started working at vw eric, on vw connectors, push in on the connector while you're pushing out on the little tab, makes a world of difference and they SHLIP right off lol, ive broken way too many using pocket screwdrivers etc and had to replace that small harness
Your knowledge of this engine helped me immensely. I have the same engine in my 2013 Tiguan. I performed your vacuum test, and the engine stalls like yours. Ordering a PCV valve today. Thank you!!
Just bought a cc, this is listed among the top 5 problems. Now I know what to do if it occurs. Thank you! 👍😎
Now I am setting my alarm early to check for SMA videos in the morning. This causes me to have to buy 2 extra cups of coffee at work to stay awake every day. Totally worth it!
i love when the phone goes off and boom a new video from sma now i can start my day of fixing more junk
Total trim at ~1%, yeah, you fixed it! Thanks for discussing this with us Eric. Good stuff. Thanks!
Eric, use a couple zip ties to make a loop,slide one under the back and one under the front of the coil. Slip your finger(s) into it and pull up. Comes out much easier. Its how i do all mine.
Absolutely great video, got my car running within 30 minutes all thanks to you. Appreciate the effort and help!
Great to see you working on a Vw. I notice that a lot of queries on forums where owners have problems are invariably not answered. Sometimes trouble codes have no obvious connection to the problem. Luckily, they are pretty reliable.
Neat trick I picked up: I pull the harness connectors off VAG ignition coils super easily by placing a Swiss army knife cork screw in the lock tab and pulling along with the connector. Pops right off :)
Hi sir. You should definitely find someone who schools folks on Volkswagens, and take the class; well that is if you’re interested in learning about VDubs. My advice: Do it.
I’ve seen most of your videos. Very informative, and never boring. You always have a positive attitude, I’ve never seen you curse, at least during your videos; and you definitely know your stuff. You definitely deserve the crown of Box end wrenches and sockets.
I thought I was going to watch South Main, not Humble Mechanic, lol. Great video either way.
Finally a Vw video!
Victor216 Amen!
Eric you need to get the VCDS from Ross tech, the best for Audi-VW, plus their support is even better. With that tool there is no guessing if you can do a relearn, adaptation, coding or setting monitors.
Agreed! It's not that expensive at all, either.
VCDS the one and only diagnostics tool you need for VW, even better than the original VAS testers.
Anybody used the OBDEleven with Android with success?
@@karlzwaschka4905 Yes. Just bought one and used on my 2015 A6 3.0t Quattro. I'll be testing it on my '09 A4 Quattro this coming weekend but I see no reason it won't work.
@@karlzwaschka4905 pro version is good to go. i always used it on my vw sharan.
The Humble Mechanic is your man on VW's and Audi's. 😉
Chris Smith I've never seen a repair video on his channel. Stopped following him at least a year ago because of that.
PCV valves, with a ball and spring, did an elegant job of clearing blowby gasses without needing any electronic control. It's hard to avoid the thought that progressive engineering can be a step backward when you search for parts on an old vehicle like this. Great summary, it's always fun to follow along.
more like progressive service department / job filler ;)
What those old PCV valves didn't do was keep oil and carbon off the backside of the intake valves, and with modern GDI engines that's pretty important.
Unfortunately I see a lot of Volkswagens, so I've seen this problem a lot. BMW also has a similar issue. Tip for VW electrical connectors, push the connector inwards then push down the release tab. Will come undone every time!
Thank you for that tip! I hate that style of interconnected wiring harness for the coils; get one coil connector loose, go fiddle with the next and end up relocking the connector on the previous one!
Mr O, Tommy Wolf from positive leads diagnostic is a Volkswagen Guru. He could certainly answer any questions about fuel trims and open loop status.
Yep I put his links in the description and in the video information button.
Hoopty_ Medic ditto that.
Humble Mechanic !
Wow! I had one sucking that much vacuum making a loud squealing noise on a 2016 Escape. Long story short the customer decided to "modify" the PCV causing this. It was the same thing though I could barely remove the oil cap. Not good at all!
FordTechMakuloco why would someone do that? Lol
Lol they modified it huh? Installed an old road draft tube and called it a day :D !
WOO HOO Volker Wagon Eric u are the man finally in my realm beating my head trying to fix my car this helps I have a 07 passat!
You are a video machine this past week. We like!
Humble mechanic and deutsche auto parts RUclips channels are excellent resources.
Had my 2008 Golf GTI 2.0T since new. Gave it a stage 1 reflash, aftermarket dogbone mount and insert, and heavier rear sway bar. Every time I get in it and drive I get a huge smile, even after 10years. It's by far the best drive I've ever owned (I'm 68 so have had a lot of different cars) and gets a service once a year always using premium VW502 or newer spec oil. I have replaced the HPFP cam follower once, a couple of DSG services, and a few sets of tyres, one set of brakes and rotors, one battery, timing belt and water pump.
Nothing in there indicates this is anything but a high quality product providing immense driving enjoyment. I'm not ready to trade it on anything new.
You can stuff your cheap Japanese, Korean, and US cars where the sun don't shine, hehe. I've owned them all before the GTI.
A heavy rear bar is about the best value mod that can be done on any GTi. It balances the turn in response so much better than the "plough ahead factory understeer".
When I grow up I want to get one of those fast cars and become a hotrodder but I'm only 60... 😁
@@ToddKing Haha, I'm 72 now and the GTI is still going strong, it still brings a smile and I still give it plenty when road conditions suit. Hang in there, you can still get one :) When I took delivery of it in 2008 there was a 75yo guy picking up his GTI as well....
@@einfelder8262 I was a Volkswagen Audi tech for over 20 years so I know all about them. Great cars though they can be high maintenance and not cheap to do so. It's good to hear you still are airing it out. Keep tearing it up.
Replacing the PCV valve/oil separator peice is NOT necessary- IF you replace the peice correctly. The key is to use the OEM rubber diaphragm peice. Not the cheap dorman type you mentioned.
I replaced MY diaphragm, and rebuilt mine. 20k miles later - NOT a problem. I may be the rare ones who got lucky. you do NOT have to replace this whole piece. of course its' easier to just replace the whole part, but for $30, I fixed the problem....thaks for your videos. also I dida pcv bypass and put a oil/water catch can in, and it's catching all the moisture and spent fuel/oil that's not being recirculated backinto the turbo - ANOTHER huge recommendation.
Welcome to our world, Eric
You're good to go, Eric. You fixed it.
Every time I have a problem, you have great answers, VW being my latest project- thanks for the tips, again.
"The Money light is on..." HAHA! How appropriate for a V-Dub. I'm using that term from now on. Thanks Eric!
I bought the product Fixd because people are not aware of my 2013 VW CC turbo at garages. Dealerships wanted 185.00 to diagnose. I paid 60.00 you should look at some videos. Product is unreal at all their features!
Finally a real car on SMA! LOOL! 😂😂 That OTC is slooooooow!
A real doctor like Dr O operates on anything,Euro trash included! Well done Dr O and thank you for the video! 👍
Nice diagnosis & repair! Playing with VWs, Audis and BMWs...nice change of pace.
Humble Mech has a really valuable skill. He will never be out of work unless the public wises up and what are the odds of that?
love the channel, I'm at work a vw Nashville assembly right now on 1 s t morning break , on the suv atlas line.
oh man that is cool!
In the future Dorman will make a car out of their parts and will call it a Yugo.
And a station wagon called a "we go"
Don't insult Yugo like that!
Knock knock.
Who’s’ there?
Yugo.
Yugo who?
Yugo Fock yourself!
Excerpt from Bill Cosby stand up comedy routine from the 1970’s
now thats funny right there
Or a YuDon'tGo :)
15:38 "don't break, don't break", LOL! I hear ya Eric - I like VWs, but hate their plastic parts!
More VW & Audi videos Eric - this was great! many repairs can still be made without Vag-Com using a generic scan
Oh yeah man their plastic is the worst!
No oil leaks while that problem was there. LOL. I have an A4 B7 and have a tool box just for it. But, it's a fantastic car to drive, just that you must do the maintenance or suffer the consequences. I second the Rosstech VCDS recommendation.
This vehicle does not have a valve cover gasket or spark-plug tube seals. It uses a special VW green silicone, P/N: D154103A1. Also the valve cover is the camshaft retaining frame and integrates in itself the cam bearings. This frame is unique to the cylinder head and if you put any other frame, the engine will seize. The "valve cover"/retaining frame is not available as a separate part as it is married to the cylinder head and if you brake it, you must buy a new cylinder head.
Also, Eric, there is a special tool to remove the coils on all audi/VW models. Tool number: T40039
Deep breaths... nicccceeee and slow
Go to your happy place....go to your happy place!!!
Panhead49EL Easy Panhead...someone has to fix VeryWrong's to make them run right and Eric is 1 of the best candidates as he loves learning and teaching us at same time.
RV Shadow Good thing they don't puke oil out of them like a Cadillac Northstar
Wolf277 Try any of the 2.0L TSI’s. Oil leaks out of Everywhere!
Had exactly the same on a Volvo V50 2.5 T5 turned out to be a split diapragm on the pcv whistling too through various seals ... nice work 😎
Another video! Holy smokes. Seriously spoiled recently, Eric O. Great work!
Looked to be an easy job. Everything easy to get to. Didn't have dozens of hoses, wires, and brackets blocking. I've read through many of the comments. It appears that most don't like VWs. I'm finishing up a 2000 golf diesel. Rebuilt the front suspension and had to pull intake manifold. Heavy blockage, carbon build-up. 398,000 on it. It ran good before I started on it. Should be like new.
That Amount of vacuum is Impressive with the oil cap and the dipstick not good But Impressive and wow at the Whistle sounds coming from air rushing in the rear main seal good Demonstration and video Eric O @7:05 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
5am, great way to start the morning! THANKS!
haha! thanks for being the "official 1st" monitor!
Thanks! Only way to stop the idiots is to be first yourself unfortunately :(
Haha some one has to keep an eye on the "firsts"
toysareforboys m
You look like a great start to the morning.
Just had one of these done on my 2009 VW Tiguan...Called an oil separator....the sound it was making was horrendous and didn't sound at all like it was coming from that area...thought my engine was a gonner. Had that belt squealing/metal on metal scrapping sound...I didn't have a code reader at the time and had other things I knew were needed....leaking water pump. They also replaced my air intake manifold gasket covered under warranty to 120k surprisingly but I was thankful for that because they were able to reduce the cost of the water pump replacement because you have to take the intake off to get to the water pump. If I had known with a code reader that it was that oil separator I could have easily fixed it myself and saved about $300. It cost about $500 to have it done (ridiculous). My recommendation is to not buy a used VW ever! They don't make them with serviceability in mind for anyone especially a DIY guy. Also as you said the plastic is horrible everywhere on the vehicles. In my opinion that cheap plastic is a very planned/calculated failure. Especially when you make water pump housings that fails over and over and common out of that cheap plastic... My choices - Toyota, Honda, Lexus or Acura ONLY!
Huh. Even a guy who rarely works on VW has still seen this pattern failure enough times that he already knows what part to order as soon as it hits the bay. Fancy that.
thats called EXPERIENCE
Translation the VW pvc design is 100% defective. So the sample size to see the defect of 3 cars is more than enough to expect the defect it is not a matter of if it will fail but when.
Europeans do things differently than Domestic, Japanese and Koreans. Strange too! That Volks Wagon sounded like a diesel!
Still.......Great Video! Learned something new.
Love to help but I only ever see these with Diesel engines! Ross tech is a good source of info and that German/Canadian chap we know 😉 Did you try the Autel on it, depending on model you don't always have to select the VW channel numbers just select Advanced Measurements and all your PID's are there. Seen the same squealing valve cover on Vauxhall Astra's over here. Nice work 👍
Happen to come across this video recently because of my girlfriends 2010 VW CC. With 2.0T, this car has some serious punch but what the engineers don't understand is that putting a huge amount of air compression and high pressure fuel injection into an engine with a plastic intake manifold is not going to end well. That translates to the customer (my girlfriend) and the customer's boyfriend (me) as follows:
Intake manifold failure. Remove/replace.
Timing chain tensioner failure, resulting in catastrophic engine damage (engine was replaced).
Transmission beginning to weep and sob its ruby red tears of hydraulic fluid.
ALL.UNDER.50K.MILES!!!! If I were German, my overall rating of VW is
Lugen stuck schiebe!
hope you got in on that class action lawsuit. just got a check for just over 1k to compensate for timing chain tensioner replacement.
@@hcagostini indeedy-do! Total engine rebuild plus loaner car for free. Damn crooks with their plastic engine parts...
I am not a VW fan (far from it), but timing chain tensioner fails usually is because of too long oil change intervals. Don't believe VW and change the oil twice as often as indicated by VW.
@@ronaldderooij1774 not the case with us. I change the oil religiously, at old-school intervals (as in, every 3 to 5K miles) with top shelf stuff--Royal Purple oil & Bosch filter)
That rear main seal's days are numbered, that vacuum leak probably started to delaminate the seal from its hold down plate. Wouldn't be surprised if it came back with the same faults and an oil leak! Gravy job tho, even more so if it's not 4motion
steve Yep, that seal is hosed. At least it's not an Audi 3.0. Bitch of a job.
But the good thing is, when it starts to leak just jook a vacuum line to the oil cap and it will just suck air in and the oil won't get out!
Other notable features (in real life) are: excellent driveability, easily tuned, chain tensioners that fail, plastic water pumps that fail, hopelessly inept PVC system, extreme intake valve carbon fouling, terrible rear main seal design, unknown engine check lights that the dealer cannot solve, and a myriad of plastic parts that leak or fail, coil packs that fail, cheap connectors that become brittle and break... I only wish the Germans could have made it more complicated. and, I'm sure they're working on that.
what you said = the same for US cars ....
Get a manual one and that rear main seal is now maintenance item lol.
@@Dcc357 I know.
I have new injectors, new variable valve timing sensor, new sparks, fully rebuilded engine, new timing chain, new dual mass flywheel, dsg clutch pack and 2 years old mechatronics :) and it's still shaky on cold. When it worm up (15 sec) and revs will drop below 1000 rpm. It works ok and only each 5-7 sec I can feel some ticks.
What I've seen also with the vw's. that pcv valve thing goes bad, and on the turbo ones it causes boost pressure to go into the crank case. Witch causes the rear main to blow out, literally. It turns the whole engine to a leak pit. Ive repaired two now so far, they will also cause lean fuel trims until the rear main is fixed
Cold beer and sma, great way to start my "weekend"
Very interesting pcv system I don't work on Bmw's Or VW's I'm used to the Good old PCV right angle tubes with a Hose thanks for sharing Eric O very entertaining @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
That was a Good one, every day's a school day, about clearing codes on VW, if you blow a fuse for the wipers, say they freeze up, after renewing the fuse, you have to go and clear the code from the PCM,
I pretty much know what it was before watching the video, I hate working on them but they are always money makers for me. PS love the channel.
Thanks Travis :D
Half expected you to say... Damn this thing drives nice! The reason we buy VWs.
No spark plug tube seals on here! The whole valve cover is the camshaft journal plate or bridge. Sealed with anaerobic sealant. Don't you love it?
Well boom! there ya go haha. Just learned something!
awesome vidjeo. my first paid gig after i got my certs was an audi a8 100k, including the timing belt. the one car line that puckers me up a bit still. when i buy cars at the auction, i avoid certain manufacturers.
You should not have fixed it, put a hose on it and run it as a vacuum cleaner^^
Joking aside, as a German I think those VW designs are often hilarious. But this PCV system is actually a pretty clever design because it does prevent oil from getting onto the back of the valves, which is a major problem for direct injecion engines.
What confuses me is their strategy when it comes to picking materials. The valve cover is aluminum (which is becoming rare), but many of the hose clamps and connectors are made of cheap crappy plastic.
But although I really do not like VWs at all, let's face it: all car manufacturers have flaws, and especially on such repair channels you only get to see the stuff that breaks. That can deliver a wrong impression.
Most VW's have a plastic valve cover. That TSI motor has a metal one because it also serves as a camshaft bearing bridge plate.
*PLASTIC* intake headers and thermostat assemblies are popular...
Fords used to have issues with plastic caliper pistons...
Seeing how often Charles from The Humble Mechanic mentions brittle, breaky VW plastic parts, I'd be very careful handling them!
Always always always check the rear main seal after replacing those PCV assemblies. The two go hand in hand on the Audi side, not sure if it's as common on VW. I've only ever used the factory scan tool to run the drive cycle, but it's always called "Readiness Code". They do run an open and closed loop, so I'm not sure why your scan tool was saying open loop. I want to say it would be listed under "CL Status" on the OEM data, but don't hold me to it. Did you get a water pump job out of it too?
In the constant search for better fuel economy and performance with lower emissions, the internal combustion engine is reaching its limits, as demonstrated in the evolution of the simple PCV valve. I see electric cars as a partial solution. Oil companies will not like it, but it is much easier to monitor and control the emissions of generating stations than to monitor millions of polluting vehicles. While many (myself included) will miss the fuel burners, the upside is that engineers should be able to focus on handling and safety to a greater degree. Europe is leading the way on this.
Eric...if you are going to pick up more VW/Audi work, I would strongly suggest investing in the VAGCOM software. It is specifically for VW products. And it will let you initiate a drive cycle.
Yeah I do not see many of them and I should have done a follow up video the Autel was able to run the forced monitor test and worked well. But you are right if I do a lot I should get one!
So ....the infamous P0171 at idle.... am a former 28 yr Toyota MDT. Have had 3 separate CC 2.0's that simply have made me feel like a Diagnostic child. Last one has had PCV/Valve cover, Intake Manifold, Brake booster, O2 sensors, injectors, throttle body...installed at the local FolksVagen dealer has completely drawn a blank after $3000 worth of parts thrown at it. At least you my friend....have helped some
Old comment but you can remove the vacuum supply to that separator and watch the fuel trims. If they normalize then you're probably sucking in air from the rear main seal or some other part on the engine.
I had no clue what a "triple square" was until 15 months ago when I repaired my buddy's daughter's '06 Jetta. It ain't no Torx I'll tell ya that! :D It does look like 3 squares equally spaced over one another - how about that? :)
Thing was puking oil like crazy .. out the vacuum pump! I couldn't wrap my head around the fact a gas engine had a vacuum pump ... and then I just recently found GM trucks have them now too! What is this world coming to ...
Anyway .. service manual says to yank tranny to replace pump! I uttered something about the Nope Nope Train going to some "expletive" That-Ville town ... and just removed the (don't know what it's called) from the shift shaft on top of the tranny, yanked the pump apart (which they said not to do) and loaded it up with Permatex Right Stuff, & reassembled. No more leak!
Did a full brake job, and also replaced one hub bearing. Had to buy a couple sets of triple square sockets for that one.
VWs are odd creatures!
Yeah I have a customer with a 2.5 with the vacuum pump and same thing. you can pull it apart after removing the trans range sensor and fix it right in place :D
THAT'S the part I couldn't remember - range sensor!
I swear I have 2 brain cells - one's lost and the other is trying to find it ... :D
Yep, was the same engine on the Jetta - naturally aspirated 2.5 .
This is my bread and butter baby ! Keep em comin
Volvo has same issue with their pcv. Check engine light usually will come back on. Only way to prevent it from coming back on is to reset adaptive memory ie disconnect ECM or battery. Driving the car can take as many as 3 days for light to go off. Also if you have vida subscription that will reset adaptive memory. Nice work.
Thomas EXOVCDS would be proud. Way to tackle the unknown.
A vacuum leak and no brake cleaner. Fell a bit let down lol
LoL 🤗
Reasonably considering the cover and components are plastic break clean will ruin it and make it turn white. Sometimes even makes the plastic brittle.
I have a 07 passat 2.0t cool to finally see vdub repairs like to see more please !!!
My daughter has a 2001 Jetta MKIV 1.8T wolfsburg... with NO Check Engine Light! Shhhh... I hope it didn't see me typing this... It's a freaking unicorn for sure! You don't want to know the amount of man-hours and the list of parts it took me to achieve this... It sure is a pleasure to drive when it's working though (rarely).
Bulb is blown
Great fix and fuel trims to die for !!
I think the closed loop issues is with the OTC, not the car, they go into closed loop very fast normally. FYI we do at least 10 crank case vents a month. If you need any info or help on VW just let me know:) or you know Thomasexovcds too:)
Yes it was with the OTC, I should have made a follow up vid. the Autel worked fine and ran the forced monitor test with out a hitch :D
Great video like always! Dayummmm that engine was a noisy little F-er...... hope the engine cover quieted it down some
One of my favorite customers has a 2009 Tiguan with the two point slow. Came in with multiple issues like this one and it did have a few weak coils and original plugs. Replaced all four plugs and coils, performed Italian tune up and it drove great for a few hundred miles before it started acting up again. No lean codes but the plugs were awfully white.
I used to work for a shop that worked exclusively on European cars. Every since brand of Euro car has issues with their crankcase vent. These not only cause lean running codes and major oil consumption issues (with can destroy the engine through not only oil starvation but also due to extreme detonation due to sucking in tons of oil vapor under load), but can also cause oil leaks, especially on turbo cars. Manifold vacuum turns to Manifold boost under a load and it will put full boost pressure into the crankcase. I've seen crank seals literally blown and and removed from their home in the engine because of CCV faults. At my shop, EVERY car that had an oil leak from anywhere got the crankcase vacuum checked during the diagnostic process.
I replace my PCV setup on my 2016 Jetta 1.8 Turbo with a catch can just eliminate all that plus helps with the carbon on the backside of the valves with the direct injection I absolutely love that car though and nice video man keep up the good work
hi man i had vw jetta 1.4 tsi in canada i had rough idle issue what u think is same like your car
fantastic jobs with volume and of course content of videos
Love the videos, Eric, and your explanation of things ...curious if you have ever had the privilege of doing either of the BMW 3.0L or 4.4L crankcase/PCV system?
Always check rear main seals on these 2.0 when oil separator fails will cause rear make to blow out and can cause lean codes see it all the time at the dealer
What is an oil seperator
@@seandonnelly3150 another name for the PCV module
WOW … Ive never seen the removal of the oil cap cause the engine to die … that is awesome
Oil cap or pull the dipstick. If its starts running rough or dying out, change the pcv valve.
Eric, according to RUclips's Humble Mechanic, to open a VW dealership in the US, the franchise needs to buy $600,000USD VW specialty tools to commence trade. So you did well to find the problem, regards Stewart, Australia
That is common of most makes. They all have special tools, a couple scan tools and specific space requirements before they will let you open. The catch to that is that the dealer only needs ONE set of all those tools in the shop, regardless of the size of the shop. That is why each tech ends up buying the special tools they use and their own scan tool. Needing to "wait in line" for the scan tool can kill your day...
Eva Gillies Yeah, to open a dealership, not to work on them. There are a ton of specialty seal installers and such that are not necessary for 95% of the work. Ross-tech makes a very adequate VAG scanner that's fairly inexpensive. Do not think that you need anywhere near that much investment to actually work on them.
I've yet to find anything that the Ross-Tech VCDS couldn't take care of.
Michael Gleason Yeah I agree, my comment was about VW's requirement for a dealership. When the Humble Mech made that statement he was comparing the specialty tool differences with Asian cars in a conversation with Eric the car guy. As far as the after market tools for VW in the US, I wouldn't know, as I reside in Australia. However, I have heard from a local mechanical engineer, buying a VW is dangerous for your wallet, as VW customer service sucks, and Australia dosen't have Lemon Laws for new cars, Regards.
Don't forget all the 'signage' and corpórate furniture required......
Hey man, vw’s operate in the same way as ford and the rest. The fuel system will switch from open to closed loop as soon as the ecu receives a signal from the lambda sensor. This will happen as soon as the sensor is hot enough and begins generating a signal. A brand new car can switch from open to closed within one minute of startup. An older car or older sensor may take 2-3 mins. If it takes longer then the sensor is lazy. If it doesn’t switch to closed loop then usually the sensor is knackered. You can check with your scope. Also remember if sensor 1 is cooked sensor 2 will still tell the ecu that the car you just repaired is now running very rich. I believe sensor 2 does influence the ecu somewhat on fuel trimming although sensor 1 (regulating probe) is the main boy for that.
Eric good job ,you got it worked over.
How did you figure out it was that part the first time you came across the problem. Great job again.
Great video! I'd for sure reach out and pick Charles', (a.k.a. The Humble Mechanic) brain for any VW's.
So are you actively searching for someone to fill in while Josh is going off to college? Maybe Keith out on Staten Island has someone "dying" to move out of the city and be a country mechanic, lol.
interesting!! learn something new!! thanks Eric
Humble mechanic just put up a video on this very part on how to diagnose it and a link on how to change it!
Hi Eric. I have a vw golf 1.8 tsi and of course it has a problem after 136k. When I am driving at low speed and release the gas pedal let's say before I make a full stop, weird noise is coming from engine, like something is loose (rattling noise like a metal cover hitting other parts) I did inspect underneath it but can't find anything. It happens only when I release the gas pedal at any speed between 15km/h and 60 km/h. Thank you
great job buddy. that car looks very comfortable. for sure and for certain
I'm not sure if your snap on Verus has the feature to set the readiness monitors ( try the expert mode) VCDS may be able to do it depending on the chassis, it's usually 01 engine and then cleared the codes, go back and go to readiness 15 . If the vehicle you are working on has the feature to set monitors, it will be highlighted on the left bottom corner and just follow each step. It may take up to 20 mins to set the monitors.
Bro blessed up am a auto mechanic i like how yu share that video educating other young inspired mechanic keep up the good job , final do yu have any used car lift for sale
great help, fixed my car with the exact describtion and fault :D
Thanks for showing us under the hood of a VW . I will keep my Honda and Toyota .
haha yeah me too :D
I AGREE ill keep my easy to work onb simple 1996 ford f150 4.9 l6 so much room i can stand inside engine compartment and work on it
@@geraldsanford2411 ah don't worry. The Skoda Octavia is just a hair smaller than this car but gets 115hp 1litre turbo 3cyl. Two lads can get in the engine bay and lift the engine out if need be. 😂
That was a great video Eric o but seams like everyone has an ideal on what you should of done Lol. But I like it your way you done a great job see ya next time!!!!!!!!!
Always great videos! Best on RUclips!!
Keep going at the VW's @Eric - you'll get there. ;)
I have a slight rough idle on my '98 Golf Cabrio 1.6 AFT 190k km. (nothing obvious, nothing fixes it) If you can help me fix that I'll buy you a beer next time you're in the Algarve.
Was the exact problem with my daughters EOS. After replacing car runs better than it has in a while.
Also check for oil leaks, rear main seal are common on the 2.0l the upper timing cover seal working for vw usually when breather valve goes bad rear main seal also leaks
Eric, I sure am glad to see you working on a vw and not me. lol
awsome video , help alot when you have same fault code/issue , thanks !
You see the millions of vacuum hoses on the older 1.8T's, looks like they've cleaned some of that up with these newer engines.
I'm a BMW and GM guy so those aren't quite as bad.