Something I would like to mention. I had a p0299 code on my mk6 GTi. I checked for boost leaks and checked the wastegate rod. Everything seemed good. I gave in and sent it to the dealer( I don't work on many turbo VW so i thought it was best.). Dealer told me it needed a turbo. Which i agree. It was passing a lot of oil. I replaced my turbo with a nice new one. Still was getting p0299 and lacking performance. I did some data logging over a few days and all different driving conditions. I thought maybe I had an exhaust restriction. I took the o2 sensor out of the turbo housing(CBFA) and put a bore scope in. Saw the cat looked like a solid black chunk. Replaced the downpipe and checked for boost leaks again. This was months ago and the car is running great and no more p0299. While my situation was rare I wanted to put this out there for anyone who is desperately trying to figure it out and exhausted all other options.
@@dermotricketts7099 My understanding is that the wastegate actuator is part of the actual turbo. It looks to be on the hot side and I don't think you can replace just the actuator. I'm sure it is a bearing that starts to fail at which point it takes out the seal and then you loose boost. I think you have to replace the turbo itself as the wastegate actuator is not serviceable. You will need to double check my option as I am no way an expert, or even an experienced vw/turbo mechanic, on vw’s. I am a mechanic but very little experience with the vw and/or turbo chargers, in general. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy VW’ing!!!
If you have a VW or Audi before 2014, p0299 can also be a bad diverter valve. The older ones have a diaphragm in them that crack and tear. Can replace with a newer piston version.
Our previous Tiguan which was a 2010 had the turbo fail at around 110k then the timing chain tensioner at around 11400. Which basically damaged the whole engine, cost to repair was going to be around 8000 CAD which was about half the value of the car at the time. However, VW covered 70% of the cost for parts damaged by the tensioner failure, because the car was out if warranty by only a couple of months, and because of customer loyalty. It was disappointing to say the least, but it didn't deter us enough from getting another.
The Wastegate rattle is popular, but in my experience, the actuator arm going to the diaphragm can get sluggish or even seized where it won't open as it supposed to making it sluggish/ wont return all the way to make it seal/ or get stuck partially or fully open. Best way is to just get under there and start looking . Good info for people who are unfamiliar with some of the issues that can plague these cars.
I am a senior citizen who owned an O7 Audi A4. Car was a nonstop litany of recalls, electric problems, and turbo issues. At 50K, the turbo ceased altogether--a $4,000 repair. You'd think that VW/Audi could get this 2.0 turbo sorted out. They've only been making this engine for 15+ years.
Hi, thank you for your video, could you please tell me how can the problem of west gate arm movement be fixed? Maybe you have some videos or tutorials or links for me? thanks in advance anyway!
Would also like to thank you for your videos and response to my comments. I bought a 2013 GTI DSG for wholesale cost because it had issues(underboost,misfires,brakes). With your help I have got it sorted out and am still far below book value or even typical asking price in my area.
My VW Golf (1.4 tsi 122 hp dsg 165000 km.) went into fail safe mode on several occasions when driving on the Autobahn. After looking into the matter (vcds and checking the arm of the wastegate) I decided to replace the turbo for a brand new Garrett turbo. Costs : 500 euro and 2,5 hrs. of labour. Now runs like a new tsi again.
Hello Charles, I´m writing from Ecuador. Thanks for the useful videos you publish. One quick question, would you advice to buy a 2.0 tsi or 1.8 tsi equiped car? here I have a couple of options with very low mileage cars. Both passats 2014 with less than 40 k miles! I own a skoda octavia tdi and I have changed the turbo twice already,,,, thanks so much for your time and answer!!
I have used VCDS to for a boost leak check. I used to log and plot the values on a graph in excel versus the RPM. You also can see boost curves too for curiosity. And like you said, look for the specified and actual. I'm pushing 20.0 psi with APR stage 2+ with other bolt ons which potentially can cause boost leaks. They're all fine 2 years later. A big thing for those who have early 2.0 TSI engines, I believe 2010 and older, it's the diverter valve. Early engines had a rubber diaphragm that tends to rupture and you have no boost at all. I caught mine before it was going to tear. 2011's and newer got the revised piston DV. You can either do that, or keep the solenoid part and go with GFB DV+ if you're tuned (recommend it). You will get a fault code but it doesn't do anything and no check engine light. Holds boost very well and vents much faster
hey man ! can i ask you for help? i have a BWA (2006) 2.0 tfsi engine......and after a highway round i get a whistle voice from the turbo side (i recorded it, bit.ly/2kiANPq , boost starts from 0.03 sec) . while the engine is "tepid" (not hot) i dont hear this whistle (and have 16-17psi boost, when the engine is hot i have only 9-12psi).... :S maybe is just a loose bolt? where the boost leaks? I hope there is no problem with the DV....
More than likely that is the DV. If you havent replaced it and you still have the original DV, it is that. I caught mine before it was about to tear. You can either to 1 of two things. GFB DV+ which is what I did, or get the upgraded Rev C which has the piston. GFB is for performance applications and works better. Uses the original solenoid. Rev C is an entirely brand new assembly. Pain in the ass to get to If it isn't the DV, check every single connection from the turbo, charge pipe, intercooler on both sides, then throttle body pipe. I would suspect the DV is the cause
Thanks man! So, i bought the car as used a few months ago....but as far as i remember (when i checked the turbo) it has the original one.....i dont have a turbo related error code only p0441 (purge flow error). I was on a short test recently today, with a tepid engine and havent heard that little noise, and got the boost properly....around 16psi :S (dont you think that, if the DV would wrong i always should have a minor leak? in case of cold/tepid engine as well (?)) But thats true i also got an informations from my mechanic about that the earlier (2.0) TFSI engines has a naughty DV...and can able to burn or tear...because of the heat. maybe i will try to check the bolts and pipes/gaskets before....and if still have the psi loss with HOT engine, i'll take care of a new DV for sure. what do you think about Runtek DV+? www.ebay.com/itm/like/172439568818?lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&item=172439568818&rmvSB=true Its just 38$....maybe its a fake? :S
MaxCo I wouldn't trust that DV lol. Seems like it's a knock off version of GFB. Either way, I would just go with the GFB DV+ even though it costs $130. I've had it for 3 years and it's never given me issues. It does throw a code because of the stiff spring is uses. P2261 or something like that but never throws a check engine light. GFB said if you want to eliminate that code, remove the spring but you won't get the performance benefits of the DV+. It spools up much quicker, holds boost better, and releases boost much faster than stock. All the VW techs at my dealer know about it if my main tech isn't there which is rare. Besides. I'm holding 20-21 psi with mine no problem.
MaxCo I also have a 2010 with the earlier CCTA engine so yes I know all about the DV going bad. I could see a line in the rubber diaphragm where it would've torn. Also, do you have a boost gauge? That's another cause of boost leak too. The vacuum block adapter that goes on the intake manifold.
hey Charles, couldn't you just purchase an aftermarket waste gate acutator with a threaded rod and adjust the preload tension rather than the entire turbo? it seems that the wastegate flapper would still seal, just that the original wastegate has worn quite a bit causing it to lose its preload tension on the flapper when shut.
as far as i know, you dont need to buy an entire new one. just take it to a turborepair company, so they can fix it for a lower price. (and they will check the other parts -vanes,axis,etc- of it as well).
Wouldn't this be just a bad waste-gate and not bad turbo if there is no bearing/shaft play on turbine. I think this good way to say bad waste-gate but not bad turbo IMO
The wastegate in the IHI RHF% turbo for 2.0TSI 200/211 models is somehow integratyed to the turbo and cannot be repaired. Mine is vibrating, causing a bad sound when lifting throttle at low revs, and yes, I'm due for a turbo change (going to upgrate to K04 type)
HumbleMechanic no it doesn’t. You don’t need to replace the entire turbo assembly to replace the wastegate. Think I’m wrong? I just replaced my wastegate on my MK7 GTI without taking my turbo out. Took me just over 1 hr to do it. And every shop and VW tech thought I was wrong. Guess I proved them wrong once again. Please stop giving wrong information to your customers! Your a VW mechanic for crying out loud. The least you can do is actually know how to work/replace things on the cars.
Please can you advice me Mr humble mechanic, I have a bwa 2.0t fsi (ea113) with the k03 turbocharger. I'm pretty sure it has a loose wastegate but I think also from what I have felt down the back of the engine that it has an adjustable actuator arm unlike the one seen here. Would tightening the adjuster on the rod solve this issue ? Or would it still dump exhaust bypassing the exhaust turbine.. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
I’m having boost issues myself. I have a 2.0t fsi bpy and im working on my wastegate its got all these symptoms and when I bought the new wastegate kit the flapper was still wiggle and easily spinable. Any ideas???
@@thegamerthatplays9322 for anybody wondering I resolved my issue. I tightened up the wastegate arm using the adjustment nut 3 turns .. all is good now. I also had another issue which the previous owner replaced the DV and installed it upside down.. with the locating pin causing a boost leak.
There are workarounds for the bad flapper. I pulled the wastegate, cut the arm, threaded a piece on the end to be able to adjust it and was able to fix the slack. Fixed the p0299 issue.
I noticed in your video you have P0299-000. I'm working with a 06' VW GTI 2.0T FSI engine with codes P0299-002 (000665) P0300-001 (000768) P0301-001 (000769) P0303-001 (000771) Car drives ok at lower speeds but bogs down when you try to speed up and hit higher rpms. Car kinda sounds like it's back firing when hitting high rpms and then dropping to low rpms fast (hit the gas and let off quickly). No other codes are set What would you guess? Restricted catalytic converter?
Patrick, I have an Audi 07 A4 B7 that is shooting out the same codes. Though it may not be the same problem, I managed to clear some of the P0300 Series at least. I ended up having to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils. Instead of bouncing back and forth to isolate the problem I just replaced all of them using Ignition Service Kit from ECS and the misfires cleared. The kit comes with pre-gapped Bosch plugs. Paul from Deutsche Auto Parts explains coil errors in great detail: ruclips.net/video/yXRVbifIaRE/видео.html As for the P0299, I have tried to replace the diverter valve and the problem went away for a little bit BUT the engine light turned on again. I am thinking that I will probably need to remove and either have the turbo rebuilt locally OR get a new on as Charles mentioned. I did look at just replacing the waste gate but it seems to only be a a temporary fix. Did you get your VW codes cleared?
There's no such thing as just get a better turbo this drivel is such nonsense without painting the entire picture. What's required to SUPPORT a better turbo upgrade where you can drive on an unrestricted road and top out at insane speeds because of that supporting ECU upgrade and 3" DP upgrade and the Full Catback SS 2.5" or 3" Exhaust upgrade and the Upgraded DV with accompanying Boost gauge and the Transmission upgrade with the Upgraded Clutch Kit and the Suspension upgrade and the Brakes and Brake lines upgrade. After all, you do want to Experience the full potential of having a better turbo just don't misguide people with info like it's a one part upgrade when it involves many other parts and nothing of quality comes cheap!
I have a question if anyone can answer it, the "whistling" sound that he's talking about does it sound like a clean whistle or not? Mine makes what I would describe as rustling leaves noise. Is that something else I need to look into?
What do you call SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is HumbleMechanic Sharing what you know with us great video Thank you very much. Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Charles, I just saw your video about extra training for techs. I'm a journeyman and started working for VW just over a year ago. Would you consider doing a "Tech Series" going over your experiences as a foreman and things you've found that help you diagnose stuff in the shop, common issues, and weird issues you've run into?
+Duncan MacWilliam that's a good idea. I've talked about a lot of that kind of thing in the past. I have had a show about being a shop Forman on my mind a lately.
Hello guys .I repair only westgate valve on my mk6 GTI using special materials.No need replace turbo only westgate, if you have error code P0299.But you need check also air pressure valve.
what were the symptoms of a failing n75? And did you diy, if so can you tell me the steps? The issue im having is when building boost around 2500-3000 rpm is sluggish but after 3000 it builds boost fine. I've replace the diverter valve and no change, also looked at the wastegate actuator rod and wastegate flap rod there is no play at all. So i might be thinking the n75 has failed and there might be a boost leak. So if you have any troubleshooting advice that would be awesome! Thanks.
Hi Charles. I really enjoy watching the video blogs/how-to's for both VW and Audis that you make and as well as Paul. I am new into the VW/Audi family as I have picked up an 06 A4 B7 2.0T FSI. Since picking this vehicle up, Ive been have all sorts of problems. from overboost, to underboost, to cyl4 misfire and other Pcodes that I have seen.I have replaced the TurboCharger with an alternative brand as my old one (WG flapper) assembly was wobbly. Ive ran a boost leak and tighten all pipes,etc.still having the issue. ive replace the diverter valve with the updated version and even purchased the GFB+ and swapped it out with a new DV and then a hybrid BOV. I even replaced the N75 with latest rev. Ive cleaned the gunk out of the intake. replaced the cam follower and also vacuum pump. replaced most of vacuum lines. inspected the BSH revamp delete kit. replaced the PCV valve. What i do notice is that when the engine is idle, i can hear a slight hissing sound but unable to pinpoint it. no leaks from valve cover. there are many times it can only boost at or barely 5. but if i were to start the vehicle in the morning, the car can exceed 5 ~ 15ish @ avg 4.5k rpm. There's also this hesitation when accelerating (it does feel fluid). The car has about 186k miles. compression is at (i might have to use another compression tester) cyl 1~ 3@ 115 and cyl4@ 91. No blue smoke from the tailpipe. car also has an APR stage one ecm upgrade when i purchased the vehicle used earlier this year. someone told be to swap it out with a stock computer to see if the apr upgrade has something to do with it. I do have an obdeleven that i purchased from Paul at www.Shopdap.com and have used to the best of my ability to check the codes, email them and clear em. I also have a boost gauge in the center vent but have not traced it where its connecting to. though one thing i can say is that there is this small vacuum hose that is connected to the intake manifold and reduces the hose to a size similar to 1/8 ID (?) and then connected to some see through inline filter and then connected to a barb fitting and then it is fed through the ecm box. From there Im not sure where it leads to. I really dont want to give up as I have invested alot of time, sweat (living in vegas), long late nights away from the fam while working in the garage. Any suggestion(s) is really appreciated as i would love to get this vehicle back to its glorious state. Cheers, Jason
OMG "the pin on the waste-gate rattling around" There are a LOT of complaints online about the 2019 Jettas that are having rattling noises once the car is engaged between 25-35 mph! Could this be the issue? If so, would the waste gate need to be replaced/fix? There's even a couple of youtube videos proving this noise is happening every time between those speeds, too!
Great video,, good info! Now make a video that reminds me to buy a Toyota. Bad turbo @ 74K Coils & plugs @ 43K. Plus a bunch of other stuff. Put a fork in me I'm done. Tiguan beautiful ride. Carp engine design & quality.
Just finished the DV swap on a 2013 Tiguan 2.0T TSI this morning.. Easy Peasy, 30min max. Unplugged the harness on the factory unit, and oil ran out of the connector.. Yep, she's done.
Bought a 2011 VW Tiguan 4Motion from the dealer. Ended up having a bad turbo charger. Luckily they're replacing the turbo with a VW used turbo, free of charge. Hopefully it works out and the used turbo is good.
Wow - you are fabulous! I'm currently looking at 2010 ( approx ) Vw Passat / Audi A4 etc. Aside from Camchain tensioners and the turbo, are the Other potential pitfalls in your experience? Maybe TDI is a good option? Although i think that the diesel fuel quality in Texas is not the best.. I'll be spending around $7k approx. Thank you my friend! Eddie
MIDLEADING INFORMATION: You can get the wastegate actuator replaced or send it somewhere where they rebuild turbos (way cheaper than dropping over $700 on a new OEM turbo). Also you forgot to mention to check play on the turbine if it moves in and out. Also spin the turbine and if it feels like it hits something, then it’s bad as well. One last check is really easy, run the car hard (pedal to the medal) for at least a good 30 minutes at night. Then park in a dark area, open the hood and check the catalytic converter. If it’s glowing red hot like if it’s lava then turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust system and intake system. You can also smell the burn every time you do a hard pull. You don’t need a new turbo, you can get it repaired/rebuild. You can even buy a good used one. One last thing, expect the life of your turbo to drop drastically if you run a Stage 1 tune or higher. Hopefully this helps someone
Hey I have a 2004 Audi AT 1.8t and last year I upgraded to the K04 turbo with software upgrade, injectors, and high flow CAT. Everything has been running great and still does, except about 6 months ago I noticed my exhaust manifold and turbo housing getting red hot. I mean literally glowing. I used my infrared thermometer and it read 900°. I know turbos are meant to withstand a ton of heat, but what could be the cause of this? Again, no under boost condition. Should I get a high flow exhaust manifold?
Dillon Clark, you're probably running too lean. What's your AFR when under load going through the RPM range? And did you get a proper tune after the upgrades to your injectors, turbo, and high flow cat? How about your fuel pump? Is it able to keep up? Finally, how big are your gaps on your plugs? Bigger gap means bigger spark means hotter burn (potentially)
Hey! I’m getting this error and believe it may be a boat leak. I was reading a thread that mentioned a fitting that fails on the boost pipe. Oil and what not blows out into the engine bay. This along with the whoosh/whistle under acceleration lead me to believe this is the issue. The thread points to this part: www.kermatdi.com/i-123-pumpe-duse-intake-hose-manifold-connection-fix-bew-bhw-brm.html#!year%3D2012%7C%7Cmodel%3DPASSAT%7C%7Cmake%3DVOLKSWAGEN
Working on VW and Audi has got to be a goldmine considering they constantly break and have problems. LOL. They are very nice when running well though. Fairly efficient and sporty.
Have you seen a turbo on say a 2010 cc blow a turbo seal an bellow smoke from the exhaust as well as leak from exhaust side? Will not over heat but lots of white smoke an oil in exhaust
Wait what ? when you describe play in the waste gate flapper valve you repeatedly say ITS GOING TO NEED A TURBO ?? what the hell ? this video is directed at people fixing things themselves right ? Now why the HELL would you be explaining in great detail that it will need a TURBO when the problem isn't even in the turbo it just needs a new waste gate installed ? $65-$85 for a new wastegate versus $900 for a cheap garbage turbo ? plus the cost of a core and once you turn in your original turbo then down the road when that made in china turbo fails rebuilding IT will be pointless because its a made in china crap turbo when you could have simply rebuilt your factory turbo for about $65 for a kit and extra $100 to balance it ?
Have RX7 Turbo. Rebuilding the HT 18S2S Turbocharger cost me 200 - 300 bucks. Is it more expensive on a VW people carrier than on my high performance ( 1988 ... ) sports car ? Isn`t it more clever just to change the turbo after 100000 mls instead of risking parts of it scrapnelling through the engine ? For my RX 7 I always have a used turbo as a spare. ( 100 bucks ) When the one in the car is starting to make noises or causing other troubles I give that away for rebuilding ...
my car just started throwing the P0299 code (2011 A4) and I think my turbo is shot just like this one. with the engine cold, I was able to grab the wastegate actuator rod and it rattles. I haven't done much more investigating from there. I ordered a new wastegate and intend on modifying the actuator rod so its adjustable so I don't ever have to deal with this ever again. I figure its better to waste $100 trying to repair it, than waste $1,500 if it meant it only took $100 to fix.
How many miles are you in, my brothers Audi is at 100k and it’s shooting oil out the exhaust and burning it like crazy so I’m sure the turbo is fucked too
I'm having a problem of clearing my codes on my 2013 passat 2.5.manual. It has 55k miles, I change my oil and spark plugs. I tried to reset the service reset, but not doing it right. I'm a home mechanic that can do certain projects. I have a scran tool that can't clear codes. The scanner shows no problems, but can't clear the reset on the vechile. Please help, because of the procedures on RUclips are vague. It's a strip down passat without steering wheel functions that clear codes. A basic passat, please help me. Of course because I have a VW, always watch your videos. Your advise is better than going to a VW service center. I hope you can help me out.
Charles - I have a 2014 Jetta 1.8 TSI. When RPMs are around 1800-2200 I hear a hissing sound. Dealer says it sounds like a failing Turbo. No CEL lights on. Does that sound like a symptom of the issue?
Having same issue right now. Yes it’s failing turbo likely leaking oil into inter cooler. I’m sure since 3 years have past, I’m assuming your issue is no longer present. What did you do with it?
I'm so embarrassed to ask for your advice. But I need help, I got ripped off and being a chick makes it easy. I bought my 2011 Audi A4 brand new. My check engine light came on years later. They told me bad waste gate and said over 5,000 to fix. I missed the Audi warranty by 2 months and 3,000 miles over. Sick about that. I didn't want to fork out 5000 to fix it, when my car is barely worth 5000. And it drove fine. So I ignored and drove on it, for over a year. Then one late night, my car illuminated 'too low of oil to drive" and at time my oil sensor was chewed on by rodents and wasn't working. So I poured 1 and half liters of oil in car, started it and it smoked like crazy, just bailing out the exhaust. I shut the engine off and had it towed to this auto shop. I told them what happened. I asked them how much they charge to replace turbo. He quoted me 3500. So I agreed. Which was late Thursday, Auto shop calls me next day at 1pm and tells me it's ready.. That seemed very odd to me because this isn't a turbo place. They would have to order it from somewhere. Or find one in Las Vegas. Anyways, I asked them how long the turbo warranty is. They said 2 years. When I left there,, my car drove the very same exact way as it did when I brought the car there. Except for them draining out the oil, I know they didn't put a turbo in my car. My car still smoked a little from the under the hood and the check engine light remained on. I called him to tell him, he said "well I'm sure it would after all that oil." I learned a lesson for trusting these people and not asking to see the turbo that they took out of my car.. I was scared to take my car to them, having no proof that they put a new turbo in and refused to have them ask for more money for things they weren't doing. Skip to a year later and now my turbo is finished. I feel like I have the proof now,, but being a chick, I'm hoping it just the bad turbo.. I gunned the accelerator trying to get out of traffic one day and it said no way, started thumping a bit and was very slow. So my car is in front of my house and I'm going to tow it to that dreadful place that pulled a fast one on me. Can you please give me some advice. I would hate to have them tell me it's something else and I have to pay more big bucks, while they use that money to get my car a turbo. Thank you for your videos and such important information that surely helps us immensely. You are awesome and decent, I can tell.
I do this on out of warranty A4 TFSI engines. IF its warranty of course I do the long ass test plan already knowing what the problem is but out of warranty I go right for the throat. Take out the airbox, grab long needle nose on the wastegate arm, shake the crap out of it with a mirror and boom, diagnosis done. Needs a turbo. Its so common, I just check what I already know what it is.
HI, HUMBLE, i have a 2006 passat 2.0 turbo engine and would like to know the measurement specifications for camshaft lobe, the one drives the cam follower and high pressure pump, i would love to hear if you can help me with that info. thanks a lot and keep going w great technical info videos.
My car is a 2015 jetta se tsi 1.8lt turbo and I cant figure were boost comes in at low rpm around 3000 rpm u here the turbo at 5000 rpm u cant here it at all if I punch from a stop it takes off slow then at 3500 rpm it spins the tires redline is at 6900 rpm
I don't have this code. Only code I is crankshaft and camshaft. But I do have white smoke. Would you have any idea what is could be? Thank you in advanced Love, the videos have helped a lot.
I had cleaned the whole housing of the turbo intake alway to the throttle body and still lacks. I need to tear down the down pipe to see the waist gage for that play you showed. Bcus if its that I'll need a new turbo $1400😬
Absolutely shameless design and to compound it they only allow a whole turbo replacement ? this is shamelessly wasteful and inefficient where so much good parts go into the landfill, while all it needs is just a valve with less play or just changing the turbine housing of the turbo at best
After this long P0299 nightmare, I was finally able to get my car into an actual VW mech and I have a bad turbocharger, and I finally got eyes on it and it's doing exactly this. Make that 7 correct diagnoses. Happened at 61000 miles on my 2011 VW GTI
Could this fault be intermitant ?? Car drives 99 times out 100 but every now again it just looses all power could this problem just starting to develop
wastegate is fine, my boost gauge psi is normal, but i am getting that engine code: p0299 & another one which is "turbo is underboosting" and " turbo boost pressure not detected" and this all happened after my 2013 audi a4, decided to leak oil from the valve cover gasket (technically sealant) & timing cover gasket. which i fixed but now i have this rough idling (extra sound & stress on my engine) & now my car is running in this limp mode where my horsepower & throttle response is delayed & slowed down. help??!!
My scirocco sounds like it rattles/ticking but only when letting off the throttle. Not at idle or steady rpm. Idk if this is a problem or not, no error codes
I have a 2006 2.0TFSI has the same code. Replaced a turbo that I know has done 90,000 miles, car was great with replacement "Ridex Turbo". It lasted about 4 months and the code returned along with a rattle. Figured the turbo was good so changed the DV to a REV G and the car was slightly better but still had P0299. Took it to a mechanic and turns out the wastegate had fallen off and was rattling around inside the turbo. New Borgwarner unit being installed by the shop.
Hey I have a 2010 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T and it lags and sometimes won’t go in reverse and when it won’t it’ll make a weird sound as if it’s changing gears or something is that bad transmission? Or would that apply with this
Agreed 100%. Great video. 4 motion Tiguan #1. Tiguan #2 then CC #3. Info is spot on. Newer models are way easier to diagnose than the old 1.8t and etc.
Bought a brand new apr k04 kit for my octavia EA888.2 straight off apr dealer. I'm facing the same under boost error. Although apr is suggesting me to reset the wastegate mechanism, I've a gut feeling that the issue is happening due to apr providing us a 3.5 Bar sensor wherein k04 run flawlessly on 3 bar tune. Gonna load the 3 bar tune next week to see if it fixes the issue. If not, I'll have to proceed to reset wastegate. Excellent video!
I have a 2006 A4 Quattro 2.0L Im having lack of acceleration.. and white smoke coming out the pipes around when i accelerate in the range 20 to 40 mph every other three days.. I have no turbo code, should i consider it being my turbo?
why does the wastegate fail ? if it is only failure and the turbine is ok, can t that be fixed in some way ? for tdi there is complicated VNT but that can be fixed, can t believe that the wastegate which is just a round plug can t be fixed .
I know this video is extremely old but I'll still ask. If you get the P0299 fault code, does that mean you have to replace the whole thing? Or is there a possibility that it can be fixed?
CHECK ALL YOUR SENSORS! I had p299, epc, plus some slight timing chain rattle, low power, low torque response, p130a, p2337, p102f codes that ALL got fixed after replacing my CRANKSHAFT SENSOR! All my other sensors were pretty new except this one and didn't even expect a fix when I replaced and everything was fixed. Before expensive parts I recommend trying the sensors. I apid for a shop diag that didn't even mention sensors and luckily tried it on my own. I've driven it hard even at full throttle multiple times now and no engine lights weird noise so far. on the new sensor. Power and torque all feel great. Wish I'd replaced the sensor 50k miles ago. '14 Jetta 1.8 tsi
I have an 2010 Tiguan that was getting that code P0299 with 111k miles and found the problem to be the diverter. I replaced it with the new upgraded version and did a clear with the scan tool and she was good to go. I guess I got lucky!
Turbo replaced and another P0299 at 2300 rpm and 36 mph. Mechanic did 2 smoke tests and found no leaks so he's replacing the intercooler. I'm definitely getting the P0299 vanity plates in October.
@@shaneinfinity4597 yes I did, it worked out great, the only problem was I needed to change all fittings and pipes because the turbo pointed the other way.
thats awesome and unfortunate at the same time :( im going to wait till the end of summer to see where CTS is with the kit. If they take longer then that or overprice the kit (it'll be the only bolt on option in existence) then Ill will attempt the IS38 swap
@@waynescott9938 hey what was your symptoms? I have this code alone with other codes. Could you tell me how your car acted when it went out trying to see what kind of money I may be looking at
Hey Humble Mechanic! Loved the video, super informative. Question... My 2011 coded and it was the check engine light. The code was P0299. The dealership confirmed it was my turbo and recommend replacing it. The price was too high and so I'm holding on for my old VW mechanic. Today the light was on, then I got back in my car and the check engine light went out. Since the diagnosis I've been driving it very gingerly. Any thoughts on why the light's out?
Vw passat 2.0 TDI 2007.... 008825 - Leak in Air Intake System P2279 - 006 - - Intermittent - MIL ON 000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0299 - 006 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent Car can't move more then a few cm, then dies. Idles normal. Turbo apparently is stuffed. (previous owner said). How hard is it to check that turbo before even trying to remove it. (is the removal process complicated for someone who is just mechanically minded person)?
A senior citizen who didn’t realIze they bought a luxury sedan which has more electronics than the average car and wonders why things go wrong. Explain a lot when they paid $4000 for a turbo replacement. $500-600 gets you a new turbo off RockAuto and at most a couple hrs to change it.
Do yourselves a favor and upgrade to a turbo with a separate wastegate, unlike our integrated one. Mine was bad on my 2013 Q5 when I bought it with only 33k miles on it about 4 months ago. I thought, “wow, great deal, low miles”. Luckily, I felt something wasn’t quite right and heard a clicking on low boost acceleration while going up a hill and it was covered by the dealer under the 30-day warranty. I had no warning lights or codes in VCDS yet, but I’m sure it was only time before it started causing major issues. No oil consumption luckily, but I think it’s less prevalent on the facelift models that support e85 since they have larger seals. I guess we will see. Changing my oil, AT LEAST, every 5k to be safe.
Hey man need your help, I have a bmw 5 series twin turbo. I have a P0229 “Turbo Underboost” check everywhere and see the left Intercooler is bent and has a hole in the side of it. Do you think replacing this will fix the issue?
I'm not a mechanic but did enjoy this? I just a few months ago purchased a 2017 X1 (F49). It's only the 2nd car I've owned with a turbo. I'm worried since my 1st one a Saab 95 the turbo started leaking oil later years. So I'm still gun shy about turbo's. This car has 51K on it. So I know regular proper oil changes are key? BMW says 10K which I think is insane I always stick to 6K max with top rated synthetic oil. Now BMW says 0-20 oil. I've heard they did that more for MPG but not sure? Was told maybe 5-30 would be better for the engine but worried about the turbo too. What do you think? I'm in Georgia so the cold won't be an issue much but once the engine warms up that's my concern. Liquid Molly got 5-30 and 5-40 BMW certified they say for me car they say the 5-30 now and 5-40 when I get higher miles like over 75K.
not bad turbos, i guess they are just rubbish turbos. i got an old 1.8 with k03 and stock boost is 0.6 bar . but if i bypass the wastegate it's insane 1.4+ bar boost . that's just crazy boost on that old setup 😄
@@HumbleMechanic sorry to dis on your cars man... Lol, im in my 4th month of ownership and I spent 2000 in repairs before the first 30 days... Walked away with estimates of well over 3000 more worth of work I couldn't afford to spend... Been trying to change a few parts at a time to spread out the cost... And now I have a totally new problem... Got my first oil change car didn't wanna crank when I left and went downhill from there... Now after much hesitation, it will crank but when you put it in drive the pedal goes all the way to the floor with no resistance and the car barely moves forward😫 im sure they are good if you take care of them from the beginning
@@becca0984 the problem is the car you bought was used and neglected by previous owner. Happens on every platform. People think cars only require gas and oil changes.
Just bought a 2012 VW Eos 6 months ago with 52k miles on it, already the water pump has gone twice due to the valve cover gasket leaking on the water pump seal. Replaced the valve cover gasket which seemed to fix the problem. This weekend got a low oil pressure warning, checked the oil and nothing was on he dip stick, put 3 qts of oil in her and took her to the dealership. Got a call from the service lead saying the Turbo is going and has been sucking up all the oil. $2,800 for a new turbo. Is the price accurate Humble Mechanic? No way I can afford 2,800 for a new turbo. Please help!!!
Something I would like to mention. I had a p0299 code on my mk6 GTi. I checked for boost leaks and checked the wastegate rod. Everything seemed good. I gave in and sent it to the dealer( I don't work on many turbo VW so i thought it was best.). Dealer told me it needed a turbo. Which i agree. It was passing a lot of oil. I replaced my turbo with a nice new one. Still was getting p0299 and lacking performance. I did some data logging over a few days and all different driving conditions. I thought maybe I had an exhaust restriction. I took the o2 sensor out of the turbo housing(CBFA) and put a bore scope in. Saw the cat looked like a solid black chunk. Replaced the downpipe and checked for boost leaks again. This was months ago and the car is running great and no more p0299.
While my situation was rare I wanted to put this out there for anyone who is desperately trying to figure it out and exhausted all other options.
Wow!!! Got call. They should have caught that when doing the turbo
Yes! Thank you very much.
Was the blocked cat cashing the oil?
I have oil build up going to my intercooler on a MK5 golf GTi.. I assumed the turbo was dying..
You hands down, have the best VW videos on youtube.
+ShotgunFelatio thank you .
I agree best
Were you saying the wastegate actuator is defective or that the turbo charger is bad? I was not sure. Which is it?
@@dermotricketts7099
My understanding is that the wastegate actuator is part of the actual turbo. It looks to be on the hot side and I don't think you can replace just the actuator. I'm sure it is a bearing that starts to fail at which point it takes out the seal and then you loose boost. I think you have to replace the turbo itself as the wastegate actuator is not serviceable. You will need to double check my option as I am no way an expert, or even an experienced vw/turbo mechanic, on vw’s. I am a mechanic but very little experience with the vw and/or turbo chargers, in general. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy VW’ing!!!
@@DFWJonYou can replace the actuator and the wastegate. There’s absolutely no need to change the entire turbo.
I love working on a hot engine reminds of playing the game operation wheni was a kid lol
Sean Thomas Of The Rauchert Family
Ha ha ha ha
If you have a VW or Audi before 2014, p0299 can also be a bad diverter valve. The older ones have a diaphragm in them that crack and tear. Can replace with a newer piston version.
But what if I actually hear the wastegate rattle while revving it in Neutral? Wouldn't be a diverter valve. would it?
Our previous Tiguan which was a 2010 had the turbo fail at around 110k then the timing chain tensioner at around 11400. Which basically damaged the whole engine, cost to repair was going to be around 8000 CAD which was about half the value of the car at the time. However, VW covered 70% of the cost for parts damaged by the tensioner failure, because the car was out if warranty by only a couple of months, and because of customer loyalty. It was disappointing to say the least, but it didn't deter us enough from getting another.
I had that code, but it turns out it was a loose spark plug!!! I felt like such a dummy taking that to the shop
7:48 can you give more details? How to monitor actual boost? What to compare it with?
Thanks
The Wastegate rattle is popular, but in my experience, the actuator arm going to the diaphragm can get sluggish or even seized where it won't open as it supposed to making it sluggish/ wont return all the way to make it seal/ or get stuck partially or fully open. Best way is to just get under there and start looking . Good info for people who are unfamiliar with some of the issues that can plague these cars.
I am a senior citizen who owned an O7 Audi A4. Car was a nonstop litany of recalls, electric problems, and turbo issues. At 50K, the turbo ceased altogether--a $4,000 repair. You'd think that VW/Audi could get this 2.0 turbo sorted out. They've only been making this engine for 15+ years.
Crazy isn’t it
$4,000 for a turbo? You got ripped off......lmao
@@jaredoldhouser3301 lmaoooo
I think it was 4k with install and other services while they're in there
I have two 2.0T's, one is a 14' w/ 156k and the other is a 13' w/ 144k miles. Both turbos are fine so far...
"BAD, TURBO...BAD!!"
*swats it with rolled up newspaper*
Hi, thank you for your video, could you please tell me how can the problem of west gate arm movement be fixed? Maybe you have some videos or tutorials or links for me? thanks in advance anyway!
VW released an actuator clip
Would also like to thank you for your videos and response to my comments. I bought a 2013 GTI DSG for wholesale cost because it had issues(underboost,misfires,brakes). With your help I have got it sorted out and am still far below book value or even typical asking price in my area.
Awesome.
My VW Golf (1.4 tsi 122 hp dsg 165000 km.) went into fail safe mode on several occasions when driving on the Autobahn. After looking into the matter (vcds and checking the arm of the wastegate) I decided to replace the turbo for a brand new Garrett turbo. Costs : 500 euro and 2,5 hrs. of labour. Now runs like a new tsi again.
Where did you buy the turbo from?
Great video , I'll keep this one in my tool box that I carry around between my ears . Thanking
I have 25k miles on my 2014 A4 Quattro and I've been having this code come up. I swapped the DV, cleared the CEL and the code remains. Bad turbo?
Hello Charles, I´m writing from Ecuador. Thanks for the useful videos you publish. One quick question, would you advice to buy a 2.0 tsi or 1.8 tsi equiped car? here I have a couple of options with very low mileage cars. Both passats 2014 with less than 40 k miles! I own a skoda octavia tdi and I have changed the turbo twice already,,,, thanks so much for your time and answer!!
I have used VCDS to for a boost leak check. I used to log and plot the values on a graph in excel versus the RPM. You also can see boost curves too for curiosity. And like you said, look for the specified and actual. I'm pushing 20.0 psi with APR stage 2+ with other bolt ons which potentially can cause boost leaks. They're all fine 2 years later.
A big thing for those who have early 2.0 TSI engines, I believe 2010 and older, it's the diverter valve. Early engines had a rubber diaphragm that tends to rupture and you have no boost at all. I caught mine before it was going to tear. 2011's and newer got the revised piston DV. You can either do that, or keep the solenoid part and go with GFB DV+ if you're tuned (recommend it). You will get a fault code but it doesn't do anything and no check engine light. Holds boost very well and vents much faster
hey man ! can i ask you for help? i have a BWA (2006) 2.0 tfsi engine......and after a highway round i get a whistle voice from the turbo side (i recorded it, bit.ly/2kiANPq , boost starts from 0.03 sec) . while the engine is "tepid" (not hot) i dont hear this whistle (and have 16-17psi boost, when the engine is hot i have only 9-12psi).... :S maybe is just a loose bolt? where the boost leaks? I hope there is no problem with the DV....
More than likely that is the DV. If you havent replaced it and you still have the original DV, it is that. I caught mine before it was about to tear. You can either to 1 of two things. GFB DV+ which is what I did, or get the upgraded Rev C which has the piston. GFB is for performance applications and works better. Uses the original solenoid. Rev C is an entirely brand new assembly. Pain in the ass to get to
If it isn't the DV, check every single connection from the turbo, charge pipe, intercooler on both sides, then throttle body pipe. I would suspect the DV is the cause
Thanks man! So, i bought the car as used a few months ago....but as far as i remember (when i checked the turbo) it has the original one.....i dont have a turbo related error code only p0441 (purge flow error). I was on a short test recently today, with a tepid engine and havent heard that little noise, and got the boost properly....around 16psi :S (dont you think that, if the DV would wrong i always should have a minor leak? in case of cold/tepid engine as well (?))
But thats true i also got an informations from my mechanic about that the earlier (2.0) TFSI engines has a naughty DV...and can able to burn or tear...because of the heat. maybe i will try to check the bolts and pipes/gaskets before....and if still have the psi loss with HOT engine, i'll take care of a new DV for sure.
what do you think about Runtek DV+? www.ebay.com/itm/like/172439568818?lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&item=172439568818&rmvSB=true
Its just 38$....maybe its a fake? :S
MaxCo I wouldn't trust that DV lol. Seems like it's a knock off version of GFB. Either way, I would just go with the GFB DV+ even though it costs $130. I've had it for 3 years and it's never given me issues. It does throw a code because of the stiff spring is uses. P2261 or something like that but never throws a check engine light. GFB said if you want to eliminate that code, remove the spring but you won't get the performance benefits of the DV+. It spools up much quicker, holds boost better, and releases boost much faster than stock. All the VW techs at my dealer know about it if my main tech isn't there which is rare. Besides. I'm holding 20-21 psi with mine no problem.
MaxCo I also have a 2010 with the earlier CCTA engine so yes I know all about the DV going bad. I could see a line in the rubber diaphragm where it would've torn. Also, do you have a boost gauge? That's another cause of boost leak too. The vacuum block adapter that goes on the intake manifold.
hey Charles, couldn't you just purchase an aftermarket waste gate acutator with a threaded rod and adjust the preload tension rather than the entire turbo? it seems that the wastegate flapper would still seal, just that the original wastegate has worn quite a bit causing it to lose its preload tension on the flapper when shut.
as far as i know, you dont need to buy an entire new one. just take it to a turborepair company, so they can fix it for a lower price. (and they will check the other parts -vanes,axis,etc- of it as well).
Wouldn't this be just a bad waste-gate and not bad turbo if there is no bearing/shaft play on turbine. I think this good way to say bad waste-gate but not bad turbo IMO
could be, but it requires the same repair.
Are you saying there's no way to replace just the wastegate? It seems it's only a clamp that holds it on to the turbo. My wastegate is sticking
They apparently cannot replace the wastegate without replacing the rest of the turbo.
The wastegate in the IHI RHF% turbo for 2.0TSI 200/211 models is somehow integratyed to the turbo and cannot be repaired. Mine is vibrating, causing a bad sound when lifting throttle at low revs, and yes, I'm due for a turbo change (going to upgrate to K04 type)
HumbleMechanic no it doesn’t. You don’t need to replace the entire turbo assembly to replace the wastegate. Think I’m wrong? I just replaced my wastegate on my MK7 GTI without taking my turbo out. Took me just over 1 hr to do it. And every shop and VW tech thought I was wrong. Guess I proved them wrong once again.
Please stop giving wrong information to your customers! Your a VW mechanic for crying out loud. The least you can do is actually know how to work/replace things on the cars.
Please can you advice me Mr humble mechanic, I have a bwa 2.0t fsi (ea113) with the k03 turbocharger.
I'm pretty sure it has a loose wastegate but I think also from what I have felt down the back of the engine that it has an adjustable actuator arm unlike the one seen here. Would tightening the adjuster on the rod solve this issue ? Or would it still dump exhaust bypassing the exhaust turbine..
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
I’m having boost issues myself. I have a 2.0t fsi bpy and im working on my wastegate its got all these symptoms and when I bought the new wastegate kit the flapper was still wiggle and easily spinable. Any ideas???
@@thegamerthatplays9322 for anybody wondering I resolved my issue. I tightened up the wastegate arm using the adjustment nut 3 turns .. all is good now.
I also had another issue which the previous owner replaced the DV and installed it upside down.. with the locating pin causing a boost leak.
There are workarounds for the bad flapper. I pulled the wastegate, cut the arm, threaded a piece on the end to be able to adjust it and was able to fix the slack. Fixed the p0299 issue.
When you listen to volkswagen to run a "long life" oil for 18000 miles.. LOL
Do you need especial scaner ,for fix the throttle body on vw passat 08 t fsi.?? Thank you..
I noticed in your video you have P0299-000.
I'm working with a 06' VW GTI 2.0T FSI engine with codes
P0299-002 (000665)
P0300-001 (000768)
P0301-001 (000769)
P0303-001 (000771)
Car drives ok at lower speeds but bogs down when you try to speed up and hit higher rpms. Car kinda sounds like it's back firing when hitting high rpms and then dropping to low rpms fast (hit the gas and let off quickly).
No other codes are set
What would you guess?
Restricted catalytic converter?
Patrick,
I have an Audi 07 A4 B7 that is shooting out the same codes.
Though it may not be the same problem, I managed to clear some of the P0300 Series at least. I ended up having to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils. Instead of bouncing back and forth to isolate the problem I just replaced all of them using Ignition Service Kit from ECS and the misfires cleared. The kit comes with pre-gapped Bosch plugs.
Paul from Deutsche Auto Parts explains coil errors in great detail:
ruclips.net/video/yXRVbifIaRE/видео.html
As for the P0299, I have tried to replace the diverter valve and the problem went away for a little bit BUT the engine light turned on again. I am thinking that I will probably need to remove and either have the turbo rebuilt locally OR get a new on as Charles mentioned.
I did look at just replacing the waste gate but it seems to only be a a temporary fix. Did you get your VW codes cleared?
My brother has a 2012 Tiguan and he said he has a code for low boost and I think im going to to try this. Thank you Charles.
Update on this? Did you fix it?
I note the Golf and Jetta aren't mentioned. They have TSi engines too. But if a turbo fails on a 1.8 hell just get a better turbo and upgrade.
There's no such thing as just get a better turbo this drivel is such nonsense without painting the entire picture. What's required to SUPPORT a better turbo upgrade where you can drive on an unrestricted road and top out at insane speeds because of that supporting ECU upgrade and 3" DP upgrade and the Full Catback SS 2.5" or 3" Exhaust upgrade and the Upgraded DV with accompanying Boost gauge and the Transmission upgrade with the Upgraded Clutch Kit and the Suspension upgrade and the Brakes and Brake lines upgrade. After all, you do want to Experience the full potential of having a better turbo just don't misguide people with info like it's a one part upgrade when it involves many other parts and nothing of quality comes cheap!
I have a question if anyone can answer it, the "whistling" sound that he's talking about does it sound like a clean whistle or not? Mine makes what I would describe as rustling leaves noise. Is that something else I need to look into?
What do you call SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is HumbleMechanic
Sharing what you know with us great video Thank you very much. Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Charles, I just saw your video about extra training for techs. I'm a journeyman and started working for VW just over a year ago. Would you consider doing a "Tech Series" going over your experiences as a foreman and things you've found that help you diagnose stuff in the shop, common issues, and weird issues you've run into?
+Duncan MacWilliam that's a good idea. I've talked about a lot of that kind of thing in the past. I have had a show about being a shop Forman on my mind a lately.
Hello guys .I repair only westgate valve on my mk6 GTI using special materials.No need replace turbo only westgate, if you have error code P0299.But you need check also air pressure valve.
my 2014 VW GLI turbo blew out on me last week. its a garrett honeywell... looks like the wastegate had a lot of gunk and didnt open properly....
what were the symptoms of a failing n75? And did you diy, if so can you tell me the steps? The issue im having is when building boost around 2500-3000 rpm is sluggish but after 3000 it builds boost fine. I've replace the diverter valve and no change, also looked at the wastegate actuator rod and wastegate flap rod there is no play at all. So i might be thinking the n75 has failed and there might be a boost leak. So if you have any troubleshooting advice that would be awesome! Thanks.
Hi Charles. I really enjoy watching the video blogs/how-to's for both VW and Audis that you make and as well as Paul.
I am new into the VW/Audi family as I have picked up an 06 A4 B7 2.0T FSI. Since picking this vehicle up, Ive been have all sorts of problems. from overboost, to underboost, to cyl4 misfire and other Pcodes that I have seen.I have replaced the TurboCharger with an alternative brand as my old one (WG flapper) assembly was wobbly. Ive ran a boost leak and tighten all pipes,etc.still having the issue. ive replace the diverter valve with the updated version and even purchased the GFB+ and swapped it out with a new DV and then a hybrid BOV. I even replaced the N75 with latest rev. Ive cleaned the gunk out of the intake. replaced the cam follower and also vacuum pump. replaced most of vacuum lines. inspected the BSH revamp delete kit. replaced the PCV valve.
What i do notice is that when the engine is idle, i can hear a slight hissing sound but unable to pinpoint it. no leaks from valve cover. there are many times it can only boost at or barely 5. but if i were to start the vehicle in the morning, the car can exceed 5 ~ 15ish @ avg 4.5k rpm.
There's also this hesitation when accelerating (it does feel fluid). The car has about 186k miles. compression is at (i might have to use another compression tester) cyl 1~ 3@ 115 and cyl4@ 91. No blue smoke from the tailpipe. car also has an APR stage one ecm upgrade when i purchased the vehicle used earlier this year. someone told be to swap it out with a stock computer to see if the apr upgrade has something to do with it.
I do have an obdeleven that i purchased from Paul at www.Shopdap.com and have used to the best of my ability to check the codes, email them and clear em.
I also have a boost gauge in the center vent but have not traced it where its connecting to. though one thing i can say is that there is this small vacuum hose that is connected to the intake manifold and reduces the hose to a size similar to 1/8 ID (?) and then connected to some see through inline filter and then connected to a barb fitting and then it is fed through the ecm box.
From there Im not sure where it leads to.
I really dont want to give up as I have invested alot of time, sweat (living in vegas), long late nights away from the fam while working in the garage.
Any suggestion(s) is really appreciated as i would love to get this vehicle back to its glorious state.
Cheers,
Jason
Can't this be fixed with an adjustable actuator rod? Instead of hammering them like some do?
OMG "the pin on the waste-gate rattling around" There are a LOT of complaints online about the 2019 Jettas that are having rattling noises once the car is engaged between 25-35 mph! Could this be the issue? If so, would the waste gate need to be replaced/fix? There's even a couple of youtube videos proving this noise is happening every time between those speeds, too!
Great video,, good info! Now make a video that reminds me to buy a Toyota. Bad turbo @ 74K Coils & plugs @ 43K. Plus a bunch of other stuff. Put a fork in me I'm done. Tiguan beautiful ride. Carp engine design & quality.
Just finished the DV swap on a 2013 Tiguan 2.0T TSI this morning.. Easy Peasy, 30min max. Unplugged the harness on the factory unit, and oil ran out of the connector.. Yep, she's done.
Bought a 2011 VW Tiguan 4Motion from the dealer. Ended up having a bad turbo charger. Luckily they're replacing the turbo with a VW used turbo, free of charge. Hopefully it works out and the used turbo is good.
Wow - you are fabulous! I'm currently looking at 2010 ( approx ) Vw Passat / Audi A4 etc. Aside from Camchain tensioners and the turbo, are the Other potential pitfalls in your experience? Maybe TDI is a good option? Although i think that the diesel fuel quality in Texas is not the best.. I'll be spending around $7k approx. Thank you my friend! Eddie
rear main seal
MIDLEADING INFORMATION: You can get the wastegate actuator replaced or send it somewhere where they rebuild turbos (way cheaper than dropping over $700 on a new OEM turbo). Also you forgot to mention to check play on the turbine if it moves in and out. Also spin the turbine and if it feels like it hits something, then it’s bad as well. One last check is really easy, run the car hard (pedal to the medal) for at least a good 30 minutes at night. Then park in a dark area, open the hood and check the catalytic converter. If it’s glowing red hot like if it’s lava then turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust system and intake system. You can also smell the burn every time you do a hard pull. You don’t need a new turbo, you can get it repaired/rebuild. You can even buy a good used one. One last thing, expect the life of your turbo to drop drastically if you run a Stage 1 tune or higher. Hopefully this helps someone
addio12 this guy’s calls himself humble mechanic. And “likes vdub” but all his videos are him talking shit on them and making claims for videos.
I’m not sure that’s accurate. Or has anything to do with humble or not.
Hey I have a 2004 Audi AT 1.8t and last year I upgraded to the K04 turbo with software upgrade, injectors, and high flow CAT. Everything has been running great and still does, except about 6 months ago I noticed my exhaust manifold and turbo housing getting red hot. I mean literally glowing. I used my infrared thermometer and it read 900°. I know turbos are meant to withstand a ton of heat, but what could be the cause of this? Again, no under boost condition. Should I get a high flow exhaust manifold?
@@dillonclark7737 Could be normal or it needs more fuel to cool it down. Prob get a air fuel ratio sensor installed and make sure its in specs.
Dillon Clark, you're probably running too lean. What's your AFR when under load going through the RPM range? And did you get a proper tune after the upgrades to your injectors, turbo, and high flow cat? How about your fuel pump? Is it able to keep up? Finally, how big are your gaps on your plugs? Bigger gap means bigger spark means hotter burn (potentially)
Hey! I’m getting this error and believe it may be a boat leak. I was reading a thread that mentioned a fitting that fails on the boost pipe. Oil and what not blows out into the engine bay. This along with the whoosh/whistle under acceleration lead me to believe this is the issue.
The thread points to this part: www.kermatdi.com/i-123-pumpe-duse-intake-hose-manifold-connection-fix-bew-bhw-brm.html#!year%3D2012%7C%7Cmodel%3DPASSAT%7C%7Cmake%3DVOLKSWAGEN
GM 1.4L have the same problem, around the same mileage. Same diagnostic procedure. Good video.
Working on VW and Audi has got to be a goldmine considering they constantly break and have problems. LOL. They are very nice when running well though. Fairly efficient and sporty.
Volkswagen, making diy mechanics out of normal people since 1937
Have you seen a turbo on say a 2010 cc blow a turbo seal an bellow smoke from the exhaust as well as leak from exhaust side? Will not over heat but lots of white smoke an oil in exhaust
Wait what ? when you describe play in the waste gate flapper valve you repeatedly say ITS GOING TO NEED A TURBO ?? what the hell ? this video is directed at people fixing things themselves right ? Now why the HELL would you be explaining in great detail that it will need a TURBO when the problem isn't even in the turbo it just needs a new waste gate installed ? $65-$85 for a new wastegate versus $900 for a cheap garbage turbo ? plus the cost of a core and once you turn in your original turbo then down the road when that made in china turbo fails rebuilding IT will be pointless because its a made in china crap turbo when you could have simply rebuilt your factory turbo for about $65 for a kit and extra $100 to balance it ?
Have RX7 Turbo. Rebuilding the HT 18S2S Turbocharger cost me 200 - 300 bucks. Is it more expensive on a VW people carrier than on my high performance ( 1988 ... ) sports car ? Isn`t it more clever just to change the turbo after 100000 mls instead of risking parts of it scrapnelling through the engine ? For my RX 7 I always have a used turbo as a spare. ( 100 bucks ) When the one in the car is starting to make noises or causing other troubles I give that away for rebuilding ...
my car just started throwing the P0299 code (2011 A4) and I think my turbo is shot just like this one. with the engine cold, I was able to grab the wastegate actuator rod and it rattles. I haven't done much more investigating from there. I ordered a new wastegate and intend on modifying the actuator rod so its adjustable so I don't ever have to deal with this ever again. I figure its better to waste $100 trying to repair it, than waste $1,500 if it meant it only took $100 to fix.
my car jerked a bit then I started to hear a whistling noise while in second gear as I spead up on a hill.
previous owner of my cc sport changed oil every 10k miles.... now i’m shopping for a new turbo 🙂
Damg
How many miles are you in, my brothers Audi is at 100k and it’s shooting oil out the exhaust and burning it like crazy so I’m sure the turbo is fucked too
Martin 392 i’m at 150k now. just a bad wastegate i believe. sounds like the seals on your turbo are bad
Colin Clarke you think I can solve my problems with a rebuild kit
Martin 392 you would wanna pull the turbo, clean it up and make sure all the internals are good first
I'm having a problem of clearing my codes on my 2013 passat 2.5.manual. It has 55k miles, I change my oil and spark plugs. I tried to reset the service reset, but not doing it right. I'm a home mechanic that can do certain projects. I have a scran tool that can't clear codes. The scanner shows no problems, but can't clear the reset on the vechile. Please help, because of the procedures on RUclips are vague. It's a strip down passat without steering wheel functions that clear codes. A basic passat, please help me. Of course because I have a VW, always watch your videos. Your advise is better than going to a VW service center. I hope you can help me out.
Charles - I have a 2014 Jetta 1.8 TSI. When RPMs are around 1800-2200 I hear a hissing sound. Dealer says it sounds like a failing Turbo. No CEL lights on. Does that sound like a symptom of the issue?
Having same issue right now. Yes it’s failing turbo likely leaking oil into inter cooler. I’m sure since 3 years have past, I’m assuming your issue is no longer present. What did you do with it?
I'm so embarrassed to ask for your advice. But I need help, I got ripped off and being a chick makes it easy. I bought my 2011 Audi A4 brand new. My check engine light came on years later. They told me bad waste gate and said over 5,000 to fix. I missed the Audi warranty by 2 months and 3,000 miles over. Sick about that. I didn't want to fork out 5000 to fix it, when my car is barely worth 5000. And it drove fine. So I ignored and drove on it, for over a year.
Then one late night, my car illuminated 'too low of oil to drive" and at time my oil sensor was chewed on by rodents and wasn't working. So I poured 1 and half liters of oil in car, started it and it smoked like crazy, just bailing out the exhaust. I shut the engine off and had it towed to this auto shop. I told them what happened. I asked them how much they charge to replace turbo. He quoted me 3500. So I agreed. Which was late Thursday, Auto shop calls me next day at 1pm and tells me it's ready.. That seemed very odd to me because this isn't a turbo place. They would have to order it from somewhere. Or find one in Las Vegas. Anyways, I asked them how long the turbo warranty is. They said 2 years. When I left there,, my car drove the very same exact way as it did when I brought the car there. Except for them draining out the oil, I know they didn't put a turbo in my car. My car still smoked a little from the under the hood and the check engine light remained on. I called him to tell him, he said "well I'm sure it would after all that oil." I learned a lesson for trusting these people and not asking to see the turbo that they took out of my car.. I was scared to take my car to them, having no proof that they put a new turbo in and refused to have them ask for more money for things they weren't doing. Skip to a year later and now my turbo is finished. I feel like I have the proof now,, but being a chick, I'm hoping it just the bad turbo.. I gunned the accelerator trying to get out of traffic one day and it said no way, started thumping a bit and was very slow. So my car is in front of my house and I'm going to tow it to that dreadful place that pulled a fast one on me. Can you please give me some advice. I would hate to have them tell me it's something else and I have to pay more big bucks, while they use that money to get my car a turbo. Thank you for your videos and such important information that surely helps us immensely. You are awesome and decent, I can tell.
Thank you so much. I found this kind of problem in my Audi A3 2012. Took off the turbo and changed the axis of the wastegate for a brand new ones.
I do this on out of warranty A4 TFSI engines. IF its warranty of course I do the long ass test plan already knowing what the problem is but out of warranty I go right for the throat. Take out the airbox, grab long needle nose on the wastegate arm, shake the crap out of it with a mirror and boom, diagnosis done. Needs a turbo. Its so common, I just check what I already know what it is.
HI, HUMBLE, i have a 2006 passat 2.0 turbo engine and would like to know the measurement specifications for camshaft lobe, the one drives the cam follower and high pressure pump, i would love to hear if you can help me with that info. thanks a lot and keep going w great technical info videos.
My 2010 Jetta didn’t have any codes or anything just was making a grinding noise when building boost pulled over turbo was glowing red
Thanks for the explanation. VW mechanic told me my actuator arm has play in it. 2011 GTI.
My car is a 2015 jetta se tsi 1.8lt turbo and I cant figure were boost comes in at low rpm around 3000 rpm u here the turbo at 5000 rpm u cant here it at all if I punch from a stop it takes off slow then at 3500 rpm it spins the tires redline is at 6900 rpm
I don't have this code. Only code I is crankshaft and camshaft. But I do have white smoke. Would you have any idea what is could be? Thank you in advanced Love, the videos have helped a lot.
I had cleaned the whole housing of the turbo intake alway to the throttle body and still lacks. I need to tear down the down pipe to see the waist gage for that play you showed. Bcus if its that I'll need a new turbo $1400😬
Absolutely shameless design and to compound it they only allow a whole turbo replacement ? this is shamelessly wasteful and inefficient where so much good parts go into the landfill, while all it needs is just a valve with less play or just changing the turbine housing of the turbo at best
After this long P0299 nightmare, I was finally able to get my car into an actual VW mech and I have a bad turbocharger, and I finally got eyes on it and it's doing exactly this. Make that 7 correct diagnoses. Happened at 61000 miles on my 2011 VW GTI
Im at the P0299 code rn on my 2010 avant :(
Could this fault be intermitant ?? Car drives 99 times out 100 but every now again it just looses all power could this problem just starting to develop
I have this P0299 on my 1.8 TFSI. I have two codes, P0171 and P0299, i hope the P0171 code is connected to the P0299 code..
wastegate is fine, my boost gauge psi is normal, but i am getting that engine code: p0299 & another one which is "turbo is underboosting" and " turbo boost pressure not detected" and this all happened after my 2013 audi a4, decided to leak oil from the valve cover gasket (technically sealant) & timing cover gasket. which i fixed but now i have this rough idling (extra sound & stress on my engine) & now my car is running in this limp mode where my horsepower & throttle response is delayed & slowed down. help??!!
My scirocco sounds like it rattles/ticking but only when letting off the throttle. Not at idle or steady rpm. Idk if this is a problem or not, no error codes
I have a 2006 2.0TFSI has the same code. Replaced a turbo that I know has done 90,000 miles, car was great with replacement "Ridex Turbo". It lasted about 4 months and the code returned along with a rattle. Figured the turbo was good so changed the DV to a REV G and the car was slightly better but still had P0299. Took it to a mechanic and turns out the wastegate had fallen off and was rattling around inside the turbo. New Borgwarner unit being installed by the shop.
Very useful diagnostic information - will bank that info for any future turbo charger issues i come across. Cheers! :)
Hey I have a 2010 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T and it lags and sometimes won’t go in reverse and when it won’t it’ll make a weird sound as if it’s changing gears or something is that bad transmission? Or would that apply with this
Do you recommend getting an Audi A4 non turbo 2007 model or earlier?
Agreed 100%. Great video. 4 motion Tiguan #1. Tiguan #2 then CC #3. Info is spot on. Newer models are way easier to diagnose than the old 1.8t and etc.
Bought a brand new apr k04 kit for my octavia EA888.2 straight off apr dealer. I'm facing the same under boost error. Although apr is suggesting me to reset the wastegate mechanism, I've a gut feeling that the issue is happening due to apr providing us a 3.5 Bar sensor wherein k04 run flawlessly on 3 bar tune. Gonna load the 3 bar tune next week to see if it fixes the issue. If not, I'll have to proceed to reset wastegate. Excellent video!
My EA211 1.4tsi was down last month also this problem, welding & fixed cost 50 dollars
where can I buy an affordable turbo replacement stock turbo for the MK6 2.0 TSI
I have a 2006 A4 Quattro 2.0L Im having lack of acceleration.. and white smoke coming out the pipes around when i accelerate in the range 20 to 40 mph every other three days.. I have no turbo code, should i consider it being my turbo?
Good call on this tip man. If I ever see this issue a K04 upgrade will be in my near future.
+desertwind16v right on!!! That's what I would do too.
This isn’t a turbo failure. It’s a wastegate failure. Replace the wastegate, not an entire turbo.
why does the wastegate fail ? if it is only failure and the turbine is ok, can t that be fixed in some way ? for tdi there is complicated VNT but that can be fixed, can t believe that the wastegate which is just a round plug can t be fixed .
I know this video is extremely old but I'll still ask. If you get the P0299 fault code, does that mean you have to replace the whole thing? Or is there a possibility that it can be fixed?
Can I just replace the wastegate and actuator?
That’s what I thought you could do?
CHECK ALL YOUR SENSORS! I had p299, epc, plus some slight timing chain rattle, low power, low torque response, p130a, p2337, p102f codes that ALL got fixed after replacing my CRANKSHAFT SENSOR! All my other sensors were pretty new except this one and didn't even expect a fix when I replaced and everything was fixed. Before expensive parts I recommend trying the sensors. I apid for a shop diag that didn't even mention sensors and luckily tried it on my own. I've driven it hard even at full throttle multiple times now and no engine lights weird noise so far. on the new sensor. Power and torque all feel great. Wish I'd replaced the sensor 50k miles ago. '14 Jetta 1.8 tsi
I have an 2010 Tiguan that was getting that code P0299 with 111k miles and found the problem to be the diverter. I replaced it with the new upgraded version and did a clear with the scan tool and she was good to go. I guess I got lucky!
vulcanbespock what is the part number for the diverter? Thx
I got it from ECS...This part will be upgraded...about 40 bucks
7.01830.13.0 PIERBURG
Are you saying that your waste gate didn't have the play in it, as Charles shows in this video?
Turbo replaced and another P0299 at 2300 rpm and 36 mph. Mechanic did 2 smoke tests and found no leaks so he's replacing the intercooler. I'm definitely getting the P0299 vanity plates in October.
GOT MY TURBO FOR $70 AT JUNK YARD
CHECK WASTE GATE NO MOVEMENT..NO OIL LEAK AT THE HOSE...GOOD TO ME...
i am in the process of adapting the IS38 to the VW GLI
i know its two years later but did you end up doing it? Im still waiting for ECS Tuning to release the turbo kit for the EA888.3 GLI
@@shaneinfinity4597 yes I did, it worked out great, the only problem was I needed to change all fittings and pipes because the turbo pointed the other way.
@@shaneinfinity4597 sadly i had to sell my GLI :(
thats awesome and unfortunate at the same time :( im going to wait till the end of summer to see where CTS is with the kit. If they take longer then that or overprice the kit (it'll be the only bolt on option in existence) then Ill will attempt the IS38 swap
@@shaneinfinity4597 awesome you have my support
I have the 2010 vw cc. Is the turbo charger in the same location as the Tiguan, or can i access it from up top?
+Wayne Scott yep top side is best
HumbleMechanic: Thanks, it turns out my turbo charger went out, that part is very expensive.
HumbleMechanic my 2006 vw fsi turbo passat doesn't want to turn on i put a new engin and still wont turn on. What do you recommend i should do?
@@waynescott9938 hey what was your symptoms? I have this code alone with other codes. Could you tell me how your car acted when it went out trying to see what kind of money I may be looking at
Only if it have a turbo. then U have a bad one. :)
Can you do a video on Audi haldax failure and how to tell!!! Thanks 🙏
Hey Humble Mechanic! Loved the video, super informative. Question... My 2011 coded and it was the check engine light. The code was P0299. The dealership confirmed it was my turbo and recommend replacing it. The price was too high and so I'm holding on for my old VW mechanic. Today the light was on, then I got back in my car and the check engine light went out. Since the diagnosis I've been driving it very gingerly. Any thoughts on why the light's out?
Awesome help in diagnosing my turbo problem. This helped me understand what was going on with my 2010 A4. Thanks!
what did it turn out to be
Vw passat 2.0 TDI 2007....
008825 - Leak in Air Intake System P2279 - 006 - - Intermittent - MIL ON
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0299 - 006 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent
Car can't move more then a few cm, then dies. Idles normal. Turbo apparently is stuffed. (previous owner said). How hard is it to check that turbo before even trying to remove it. (is the removal process complicated for someone who is just mechanically minded person)?
A senior citizen who didn’t realIze they bought a luxury sedan which has more electronics than the average car and wonders why things go wrong. Explain a lot when they paid $4000 for a turbo replacement. $500-600 gets you a new turbo off RockAuto and at most a couple hrs to change it.
What to look for if you look at live data with OBD?
Do yourselves a favor and upgrade to a turbo with a separate wastegate, unlike our integrated one. Mine was bad on my 2013 Q5 when I bought it with only 33k miles on it about 4 months ago. I thought, “wow, great deal, low miles”. Luckily, I felt something wasn’t quite right and heard a clicking on low boost acceleration while going up a hill and it was covered by the dealer under the 30-day warranty. I had no warning lights or codes in VCDS yet, but I’m sure it was only time before it started causing major issues. No oil consumption luckily, but I think it’s less prevalent on the facelift models that support e85 since they have larger seals. I guess we will see. Changing my oil, AT LEAST, every 5k to be safe.
Hey man need your help, I have a bmw 5 series twin turbo. I have a P0229 “Turbo Underboost” check everywhere and see the left Intercooler is bent and has a hole in the side of it. Do you think replacing this will fix the issue?
It may not be the only issue, but it is an issue that needs to be fixed. You basically have a boost leak
I'm not a mechanic but did enjoy this? I just a few months ago purchased a 2017 X1 (F49). It's only the 2nd car I've owned with a turbo. I'm worried since my 1st one a Saab 95 the turbo started leaking oil later years. So I'm still gun shy about turbo's. This car has 51K on it. So I know regular proper oil changes are key? BMW says 10K which I think is insane I always stick to 6K max with top rated synthetic oil. Now BMW says 0-20 oil. I've heard they did that more for MPG but not sure? Was told maybe 5-30 would be better for the engine but worried about the turbo too. What do you think? I'm in Georgia so the cold won't be an issue much but once the engine warms up that's my concern. Liquid Molly got 5-30 and 5-40 BMW certified they say for me car they say the 5-30 now and 5-40 when I get higher miles like over 75K.
On my 2007 Passat P0299 was actually caused by a misfire because of a bad coil pack
not bad turbos, i guess they are just rubbish turbos.
i got an old 1.8 with k03 and stock boost is 0.6 bar .
but if i bypass the wastegate it's insane 1.4+ bar boost . that's just crazy boost on that old setup 😄
Po299 in my Renault duster check engine light with no symptoms plz suggest
Conclusion from a VW owner of the worst car mechanically ever owned.... NEVER BUY A VW problem solved 😡
:(
@@HumbleMechanic sorry to dis on your cars man... Lol, im in my 4th month of ownership and I spent 2000 in repairs before the first 30 days... Walked away with estimates of well over 3000 more worth of work I couldn't afford to spend... Been trying to change a few parts at a time to spread out the cost... And now I have a totally new problem... Got my first oil change car didn't wanna crank when I left and went downhill from there... Now after much hesitation, it will crank but when you put it in drive the pedal goes all the way to the floor with no resistance and the car barely moves forward😫 im sure they are good if you take care of them from the beginning
@@becca0984 the problem is the car you bought was used and neglected by previous owner. Happens on every platform. People think cars only require gas and oil changes.
Just bought a 2012 VW Eos 6 months ago with 52k miles on it, already the water pump has gone twice due to the valve cover gasket leaking on the water pump seal. Replaced the valve cover gasket which seemed to fix the problem. This weekend got a low oil pressure warning, checked the oil and nothing was on he dip stick, put 3 qts of oil in her and took her to the dealership. Got a call from the service lead saying the Turbo is going and has been sucking up all the oil. $2,800 for a new turbo. Is the price accurate Humble Mechanic? No way I can afford 2,800 for a new turbo. Please help!!!