MKV GTI mounting the balance shaft! ep2
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this episode I continue on with dressing the engine. I'll be clocking and mounting the balance shaft with the new chain, chain tensioner, front flange and main seal, timing belt gear, crank pulley, timing cover, torqueing the crank bolt and so on!
Really close to dropping this bad boy back in the car and definitely getting hyped about this unplanned build! =D
Want to know what else is done to my GTI? Check out the build series here:
• MKV GTI FORGED REBUILD...
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Almost 10x the population of my town in views, Thank you all for watching! If you have any questions please feel free to drop a comment or check the questions I've previously answered! Also don't forget to give the like button a tap. =D
P.s. I apologize for the poor audio quality and some info not being in this video as it has been heavily edited due to copyright claims.
Did you use any sealant between the pump housing and the block/plate? Thanks
@@jonathannoorani855 No, I believe the manual stated no sealant was necessary on the sandwich plate for the oil pump housing and block.
Did you check the function of the oil pump bypass valve? Its malfunction is notorious for low oil pressure in these engines.
What do we need to look for?
Any reason why you kept the balance shafts in as iv head there prone to seizing up and some other issue with rob in the back wearing to much and cause oil pressure issues why didn’t you do the freewheel kit or the mod where the weight and gears are cut out just curious
The oil pump and balance shaft on the old unit seized on the side that when cut would basically become the idler portion if done that way. Funds had started to get a little tight after all the misc gaskets, seals, bolts, and things that had to be done etc for me to be spending any more on further mods and didn't want to risk potentially ruining the new balance shaft/oil pump assembly unfortunately.
@@WreckedRevival thank you for the reply I have to take my sump off but I just don’t no if I should delete mine iv read it’s important to keep it ! I just don’t no
No problem! I can’t remember all the details about the oil pump/balance shaft assemblies but I remember something about some bypass valves, the pump acting as/maybe having more baffling for oil slosh, and I believe deleting it caused more secondary force vibrations that was only fixable with an ATI fluid/super damper or something along those lines. (More $$$ lol) So I decided not to go that route.
Hello bro, top dead center on oil pump is when the flat sides of the balancers are facing up??? If you put the oil pump as normal way you put on your video ? The round sides are facing down righ?
Yes if looking at it from the perspective of it being mounted or in my video at 1:30 the counterweights should be on the bottom so the flat part would be facing up.👍
@@WreckedRevival thanks, i mounted mine but when i placed the mark on the oil pump, the counterweight get the round face facing each other, so i don’t know if this is the cause, but my car vibrates to damn hard, even in ralenti or no movement, when i gas it gets worse
What is the plate called that goes between the assembly and the bottom end of the motor?I can’t find it anywhere.
search google for Vw bpy balance shaft or oil pump spacer plate and it should show up. Believe it's actually called an intermediary plate.
Where did you find what nm you should use on the bolts for the balancer shaft?
I got most of the TQ specs from Workshop-manuals dot com some I had to just browse forums for.
This is from Vw vortex;
OIL pump chain sprocket :Tightening specification: 20 Nm + an additional 90° As for the 10mm oil pump (balance shaft) bolts to engine block : Tighten the bolts from the inside working toward the outside to 15 Nm + an additional 90°
Balance shaft delete it.
that’s the problem with these engines those shafts spin at high rpm and seize-causing oil pump to Self destruct. Good idea when tuning for sure
Yeah I definitely wanted to go that route with it and do the mk4 oil pump conversion but wasn’t really in the budget after all of the other upgrades/repairs unfortunately.
Can you say me how to timing the oil pump chain?
The motor needs to be at Top dead center for the #1 piston, the balance shaft gear should have a small indicator dot on the outside of the gear somewhere. Then while looking at the gear there should be a hole near the top (in between the mating surface of the balance shaft & gear) where you can slip in a 4mm Alan key to lock the gear/shafts into place for assembly. If there is no timing indicator on the gear, you can see in my video the counter weights on the shafts are towards the bottom of the oil pump/balance shaft assembly
What's the bolt size to put engine on the stand
Kingdom Living not sure on exact length or thread pitch but some of the trans bolts will work
Does the oil pump need to be timed with the crank?
It’s the balance shafts that need to be in time with the motor. The motor needs to be at Top dead center for the #1 piston, the balance shaft gear should have a small indicator dot on the outside of the gear somewhere. Then while looking at the gear there should be a hole near the top (in between the mating surface of the balance shaft & gear) where you can slip in a 4mm Alan key to lock the gear/shafts into place for assembly. If there is no timing indicator on the gear, you can see in my video the counter weights on the shafts are towards the bottom of the oil pump/balance shaft assembly..
@@WreckedRevival thanks you so much man
Fira no problem and good luck! 🙂👍
How much for the motor so far?
Hector Rst
JE 10.27:1 83mm pistons $607
IE rifle drilled H beam rods $625
Block bored/honed 83mm $135
Used cylinder head $420 lol
ACL main & rod bearings $259
Used Crankshaft $220
Used Balance shaft $220
ARP head studs $125
Head gasket kit $85
Oil pump chain/tensioner $75
Crank sensor $60
Main bolts $30
Crank bolt $5
Flywheel bolts $25
Thrust washers $32
Crank pulley bolts $8.40
Oil filter/cooler gasket $10.32
83mm forged short block with all new gaskets bolts etc not including the head was $2524 total so $2944 including the head.
Pretty expensive, but fairly average for a forged 4 cylinder build with arp bolts etc and a lot cheaper than the $4800 my local VW dealer quoted for a short-block lol.
Would’ve just bought a donor car/used motor but decided if I was going to spend a decent amount of money reviving the car I’d rather put the money towards a fresh build.🤘
What shop did you use
Kingdom Living The machine shop I used was Mac weld to bore and hone the block. Then took the pistons, rods, rings, crank etc to Slingblade Performance to do the ring end gaping and short block assembly.
@@WreckedRevival that's what's up. You vested alot of time in it.
Kingdom Living yeah for sure definitely have a lot of time and money in it. Thinking I’ll prob get tune for it and enjoy it. 👍
@@WreckedRevival I got another investment for you!!
Kingdom Living unfortunately I can barely afford to pay attention at the moment lol. The GTI and my current project have broken my bank 😕