MKV GTI Cylinder head disassembly ep3
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- I've finally gotten pretty much all of the parts for reassembly. This episode I'll mainly be doing a disassembly, inspecting, cleaning, then reassembling the cylinder head and prepping it for the block.
Want to know what else is done to my GTI? Check out the build series here:
• MKV GTI FORGED REBUILD...
Link to the $24.99 HPFP stud kit:
www.urotuning....
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Over 3000 views now, I appreciate you all and Thank you! Feel free to ask questions about anything I may have left out in this builds video series! =D
How do you learn how to do this? I have a blown cylinder head on my Eos and trying to figure out how I can fix it myself 😂
You could probably do the head gasket with just a basic mechanics tool kit, 1/4 or 3/8 drive long reach torx and hex bits, and a 1/4" + 3/8 or 1/2 torque wrench, the cam locking tool, and required parts of course.
If you've never done a head gasket I'd definitely recommend buying or searching online for the Golf, GTI, EOS service repair manual and give the cylinder head section a read through.
It'll have step by step instructions with torque specs, assembly order, and any other useful info of what to or not to do. I think the best advice that I wish I'd gotten when starting would be to take the time to organize everything (both parts & tools) in a way that best suits you remembering how to re-assemble it and use your time efficiently.
Is it worth it to port and polish the cylinder head?
Performance benefits aside, porting mainly polishing the Intake side may help with sludge build up a bit being direct injection. Gains probably won’t be huge but almost always some power potential from porting a factory head (scaling with power level).
I tried the studs on the hpfp but went back to the bolts just because it was easier to service the cam follower with new $1 bolts.
Yeah it’s definitely easier to remove/install with bolts, think I had to unbolt the fuel line and evap line from the top of the IM to get the HPFP off/on. If I had to redo buying the HPFP studs I’d probably try to find an ARP or equivalent bolt that’s not TTY instead.
The only reason I used the studs was to avoid stripping the threads in the aluminium head. Taking the bolts out frequently will bring issues eventually.
Mark Raumer Right, that could be a nightmare 😳 and was my main concern with the hpfp bolts, didn’t want to ruin the housings threads doing a routine job like the cam follower something.
What did you use to remove that gasket maker on the head frame piece? Im doing the same and the stuff is pretty dry and hard to get out.
Yeah anaerobic gasket maker cures to be pretty solid, whoever assembled this head used regular gasket maker but when I did my GLI I ran a razor along all of it to help break it up then chiseled it all out with a set of picks 90degree, 45, straight etc. Pretty tedious & time consuming job.
Also for the cam cradle since it's sealed with anaerobic gasket maker as long as you use a low consistent speed and are careful enough to not hit a cam journal then using a BRASS wire wheel will make fairly quick work of it.
Thanks man. Im doing this exact rebuild for my stg3 and in in the process of cleaning parts.
gtiboy87ful no problem man, if you have any questions let me know and nice! Slowly building mine, next step for me may be injectors/hpfp, a tune or a k04. Think I may get the Unitronic turbo kit since it comes with a tune.
@@WreckedRevival look me up on fb Tommy Callaghan background will be pic of a terrain race I did. Had few other questions.
do you gave a link for the stud kit of hpfp??
I've added a link to the description for you! here's another one to make it easier for everyone !www.urotuning.com/products/fuel-pump-bolt-to-stud-kit-2-0t-fsi-hpfp