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I didn't notice any increase in vibrations, and it's been well over 20,000km. The 2.0 with an automatic transmission is shaky alone, so maybe a manual car might be more noticeable but I doubt it.

If there’s a way to disable the alarm using STAR, I’m not aware of it. I’ve coded new keys and things of that nature but never looked into disabling anything. I’m not even sure what ignore button you mean? There’s the lock/unlock, but beyond that? If you’re hitting unlock on the fob, opening the driver door, getting in, and the alarm is going off when you go to start the car or reopen the door after a time delay or something like that, it could be that the door opening sensor on the driver door has died. To test it, unlock the door using the fob and then wait. The doors should lock themselves and the alarm rearm after 10-20 seconds something like that. Now, if you hit unlock on the fob and open the driver door, but then close it again and wait. If the car locks itself again and rearms, then the door opening sensor isn’t working. Test it again with the passenger door. You can also check the interior lights activate on door opening (as long as you have them set that way on the switch).

@@PBGarage It’s the button to the right of the unlock 🔓 has a picture of a car with a hook 🪝 like for a tow truck. Both my smarts 451 Have the factory alarma. These cars have some microwave sensors Mounted near the gear selector. They all go nuts and think someone’s robbing the car 🚗 and starts honking the horn on itself Wasn’t sure if mb stat allowed you to disable that option

@MrMr123 all my 451s also have factory alarm but none have a tow hook just a blank in the slot next to the unlock. Maybe North American cars don’t have motion sensing.

I can switch mine on and off again while driving or anytime.

@PBGarage so maybe something wrong with mine I tried searching all over the internet with no resolution, it throws "failure sport mode" in my GTS why driving if I switch the sport button on (no other faults or warnings appear) Any idea?

@kopan14 I don’t have a GTS but yeah it would seem something else is up. Good place to start would be a full scan by a mechanic familiar with Porsches. Unfortunately these don’t scan well with typical VW/Audi scanners.

@@PBGarage well it's hard to find a good Porsche mechanic here in my country Should any OBD scanner/reader be able to? I think to invest one to start with Any other reasons that could stop sport mode engaged ? (I.E hidden error codes to clear?...) P.s. my air suspension systems are still working fine with auto levelimg

Generic OBD scanners really can't scan much other than engine/emissions related codes. Sometimes drivetrain faults set a code in the engine module, but if the check engine light is not illuminated, then there probably won't be anything there. I have a video showing some of the challenges with trying to use even a dealer-level tool (VCDS) meant for VW/Audi but with a 957 Cayenne. Even in that case only certain modules are accessible. I've also tried the iCarsoft POR V3.0 and it really doesn't help much either despite being supposedly Porsche specific.

That car isn’t done yet unfortunately.

Thanks for the feedback! It is tricky to tackle without that compressor tool for sure.

I haven’t made a video for the reinstall. Just lift it back into place and be careful with the e-brake handle. You’ll probably need to remove the cover on the back of the ebrake handle and guide the tab into the holder in the handle. You’ll probably don’t want to bend the rod that comes up. Unsure of torque value for subframe bolts. Good and tight in my case lol

@ thank you for getting back to me. I got a 2013 smart pure and I am in the middle of lowering the engine. I had bought the original Mercedes Benz lowering bolts.

Great solution in warm climate, catch cans are tougher on winter driven cars because you can get ice buildup in catch can lines and crankcase pressure will blow out gaskets and main seals.

Cracking the cam gears loose ensures that the cams are aligned with the crankshaft regardless of slight differences in belt length.

We never got the turbo 451 in Canada so I don’t have much experience with it. The 1.0L NA motor we got seems to be pretty reliable. Issues are more often with clutch actuator and other non-engine related stuff. I would go for whichever seems to have been better maintained, and due to age, whichever one has had brakes, suspension replaced etc.

We never got the turbo 451 in Canada so I don’t have much experience with it. The 1.0L NA motor we got seems to be pretty reliable. Issues are more often with clutch actuator and other non-engine related stuff. I would go for whichever seems to have been better maintained, and due to age, whichever one has had brakes, suspension replaced etc.

@@PBGarage Thanks, your channel is amazing🏆

Much appreciated!

Timing belt/idler/tensioner absolutely. Timing chain at the back of the head and the cam chain tensioner. Thermostat. Probably oil pickup tube, PCV components. N75 valve. Diverter valve. Carbon clean if it needs it.

@@PBGarage thanks I’ll have a look at those. I did replace the timing belt at 85k and thermostat around the same time

Couldn't agree more! Thank you.

Yeah I think so but check out the intake tube to make sure it’s not going to yank on the fender. I think you’ll find that removing the rear bodywork and then removing the rear crash bar will open up the back end significantly though. Like even if you can squeak the rear subframe down and out without hanging up on the crash bar, you’ll still only be able to access stuff from the engine cover hole. Might be fine though for the intercooler and gear change motor.

Was easier than I expected.

You could certainly vent the crankcase to atmosphere. I’m in Canada and it gets cold here in winter so it’s the least hassle to still vent to the intake. The slight negative pressure on the crankcase helps condensation flash out of the oil and get pulled through the motor. Running the crankcase vent to atmosphere with a filter pod often results in the filter icing up and then you get excessive pressure build up in the crankcase and blow out main seals, valve cover gaskets, etc etc

Either the switch in the dash, bad wiring, blown fuse? Have you probed around to know where you aren’t getting power anymore?

@@PBGarage The fuse (Nr. 4 25A) keeps blowing as soon as I turn on the blower, both with the old motor and the new one. Unfortunately, I don’t have a multimeter to help me troubleshoot the issue.

Sounds like a short in the blower wiring somewhere. Trace the wires back maybe you can find something obvious.

For the spacer ring? Ebay is probably the easiest, but sometimes expensive. Junkyard are the hardest but cheapest option.

You can put as much power as you want. You just need to size your power and ground wire accordingly is all. All I do is take the signal input from the OEM system.

@ and what amplifier i need?

I am not sure to be honest. We have never seen anyone try, but the bolt patterns appear to at lease match up. Your challenge will be the TCU, since it is integrated with the 3.2 ECU, and all 2.7 have their own ECU(that cannot control a transmission). Electronically, it might be a nightmare to figure out.

@ thank you for replying! So should I be looking for a automatic transmission same year as the 2.7? Want to keep it auto if it’s even possible

Shoot i thought I had it in the video and I just rewatched it and realized I never said. I don’t know from memory sorry.

Sorry old one is long gone now.

Painted? No?

Thank you so much! Some vehicle have their oil pan painted on the inside “don’t ask me why” :)) So in that case after using strong decarbonisation products you have to drop the pan and clean it manually. No paint - no problem:))😉

Interesting!

Not sure about that, best to ask the seller of the shims.

Pops up in VCDS

@@PBGarage will this work with obdeleven?

I would think so, but I’ve never used obdeleven. People say it does all the VCDS things though so?

Right back at you!

Great hope that worked out!

Perhaps your LEDs have been compromised and simply no longer work. You can solder in new LEDs(a little more complicated) or buy a good used switch from online somewhere or take a risk and hit up a junk yard, since these are showing up there all time.

Also thank you for the kind comment!

@@PBGarage thanks!

It’s best if you can do the learn in procedure with Mercedes STAR tool. You can do it manually but it will never be as good.

Hey next video 2.7T turbo update just for you!

Still holding up fine, I checked it before storing the car a couple months ago and it looked the same as the day I installed it.

Hi! The video has a picture of the template, simply measure/trace it on a sheet of paper, or just measure straight on the rubber sheet, the cuts do not need to be very precise.

To be perfectly honest I’m not sure if not having the module coded to the chassis would keep the rear window de mister from working. If you can find someone local with VCDS and code the module you might get lucky, but I’m wondering if it might just be an issue with the buttons on the new module.

They are named in the video, they all have a specific part number.

Yes absolutely

@PBGarage thank you

Keep us posted on how you make out!

Nice work finding a solution!

Just crack the nut on the hard line and be prepared for fuel to come out.

The circuit board might need to be replaced.

It’s a great way to do it!

Thank you!

Like 2600-2800 something like that from memory.

It gets rid of the stock H Pipe yes. There is a 6 speed FWD gearbox in B7 A4s, they’re hard to find but if you can locate one it should swap in. You’ll likely need the gearbox, shift linkage, axles, and if your car is 02-03 you’ll need to retire the VSS to the ABS module.

@PBGarage So much work for an extra gear🤣 Thanks alot for the answers, man. Truly appreciate it

Nice!

a long ball end allen will work, but easy to strip. I was able to use a short 1/4" 10mm with a wobble extension to get them off. With the sub frame loose, engine supported, you should be able to push/pull the subframe a bit to make some room.

Nope! The stock shrouds need to be cut up to fit, so I just deleted them.

@PBGarage what do you think if that can cause some hp loss? Any test done?

This test seems to show not much different in IAT running without shrouds, so likely not a big factor: myaudis4.com/more-shroud-testing/

You should!

It looks scary but trust me even unskilled people can work on them.

Behind the glove box behind d the carpet, pull the carpet down and you should be able to grab it, or take the glove box out as well