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Asians bathe in cow shit to prevent getting Covid, I don’t take advice trom them.

I currently look like Grandpa Smurf, and just noticted on the tube that Engineer’s blue gives you cancer. Live and learn …

Great video on a subject that few people actually show. I am doing the babbitt’s for a 36” bandsaw much like Keith Rucker video. I don’t think he actually shows this process though. Thanks for the video!

I like your art. Thank you for sharing your work.😅😊 @Fancupraateca

I need a ~1m straight edge to re-scrape my revett. Don't suppose you know of any going?

Great to see these videos, I just picked a MK1 up for myself as well, it’s currently in bits having an evaporator bath lol.

Very nice work. I don’t know anything about scraping.

Great video ! I started a craft eng apprenticeship in 1977 tool making for the first year, hand scraping was part of that for lath beds and milling machines, this video has refind what i was taught all those years ago, A1 me old mucker ive learnt more from this now at 63 than what i did at 16 as a Young spunker, thanks mate great video 👍😜

1 Blue 2 Holbrook 3 40 hours I have enjoyed you machinery restorations since you started the channel kerp up th good work

They should make some automation for this to scrape cylinders instead of cross hatch honing. The pattern just looks better.

very informative thankyou...cool idea for the competition you had too. great way of getting people watching and getting more views

How the hell can it be straight if u scrape it by hand

Damn!just finished the watching both episodes I’m a beginner and this was the best explanation of hand scraping I’ve seen. Thank you sir!

I have no (immediate) interest in scraping but YT decided to recommend this video to me, and I've watched it from beginning to end. Not only was it fascinating but I appreciated your obvious senior professional experience with it all and you've explained it so well and at such a layman's level that I feel as if - though knowing I couldn't - would execute a perfect scraping on my first try. Kudos and thank you for teaching me something today.

Just rebuilt one myself … I had exactly the same issue with that front bush … it should be held in place by that beryllium strip .. up against the material … reason it comes out is the shaft is corroded and when you disassemble it you pull the bush out … so I’ve re set it .. and works fine …. With the bush in the right place it draws 2 amps at 12v …. With it pressing against the strip ( not located ) it draws 5 amps … and that bearing gets very hot and … so that front bearing needs to be in its hole

Why not just use a whetstone ? Just curious.

Best way to remove the floor pan?

hello hows clanger109 getting on not seen any videos for six months

Im pretty sure thats gonna be a precision lathe 😂😂

Excellent. Ive seen scraping on a flat surface but never on a cyclical one

I love the colour of the block

I have no doubt that a lot of Experts have learned from your excellent video. Thanks.

can you suggest alternative paints?

DSG the lathe they want to be .

No videos lately? Everything okay?

My man, you put a lot of effort into this video. Many thanks from everyone out here. Most babbitt repair is needed for countershafts or whatever. I'm glad you took the time to do one on a lathe headstock; quite different. Thanks!!!

I tàķe my hat of to you mate

Buy Mig mate 37 years ìn trade

While I admire your work and think it's of excellent quality the idea that using any original surface as a true reference is not wise. As a drafter designer I can assure you that the machining tolerances on that machine were never tighter than +- .002. It would have been cost prohibitive to call for anything tighter than that and would never ever been called out. Good luck with your efforts and for your own piece of mind it will be far better than it ever was when produced! Your lathe will be super accurate compared to original!

Hey mate, Did you account for bar sag in the horizontal plain?

Nice!

Hi, 4 years later, I am pleased found your work > I have an prewar MG where the wm bearing is oil fed from the bottom. Rebuilding it is 'stuck', wil not turn and after measuring, it needs scraping.... The engine was not 'running' when I got the car, no history known... only 'barned' for more than 35+ years... and a crank 'possibly reground in its life'... as was smaller than factory dimensions.... Thanks for your upload, if you still see this...

Ive been using shapers since i was 16 (now 47)… the Elliott 10M is a banging machine, i have one & there an unstoppable lil’ beast

Just rewatching this as now working on cross slide myself. Really useful yet again

The mysterious green bracket mounted on the bulkhead is the anchor point for the Bowden cable clevis on the 2.25 litre diesel cable (as opposed to second rod) operated throttle. Trunnion in the lever of the cross shaft then operates on cable shelf. Similar arrangement at injection pump with the Bowden cable clevis anchored to a bracket secured off 2 of the pump mounting studs. I'm sure your improvisation will achieve the desired result!

Great video. Does anyone know where I can get straight edges here in the UK?

scraping spindles... whoa, all I know and hear about is about scraping surface plates and straight planes.

too much talking, then only a view of your head for the actual scraping part.

Amazing work!

By far the best scrapping video on RUclips. I’m in middle of a reciprocating saw conversion to help me power scrape. I’ll post on my channel soon. This helps a lot. Thanks for taking time to make the video.

Traduire en Francais.Mercie

Thank you

Looking good, I love the colour of the Landie! With your wiring, have you not got a Haynes manual for the series 3 ? The wiring diagram is in there and it gives all the colours of the wires. You can identify everything from that. Yes the red/ white cables are your sidelight nd illumination. I'm not sure if you had it on yours but my 1978 series 3 109" had a switch that turned off the dash illumination I think yours has a rheostat to vary the brightness? I think the one bulb holder you were looking at that has a whole glass bulb like a sidelight push in bulb is for the ignition/ charge light from the alternator. I hope that helps.

Coming along! Did you ever have a video discussing painting? Primer, finish, hardeners, accelrators, and how you protected your lungs?

On the wiper switch pretty sure the plunge is to operate the washer pump and the other switch is for a vehicle with no washer only wipers.

Look up plastic welding and also superglue and bi-carb fixing videos for hints. Mike at Britannica Restorations can supply wiring diagrams so you can make sense of colours. 👍🏻🙏🦘

Great videos. Love watching the work on this Land Rover. Happy New Year. Marc from Australia 🇦🇺

My memory says: Those door cill plates had smal "L" shaped l return plates underneath for the 2 bolts (into bulkhead) , this would raise them up at the front! HTH

Jeez some amazing progress made on this Mat, although teasing the poor lass while she's doing you a favour while not exactly being sensible is exactly what us dads do 🤣🤣 Really pleased that you go the sill problem sorted out to your satisfaction mate, that was a sickener to watch and I can't even imagine what it felt like for you, but its all sorted now and its onwards and upwards into the confusing world of wires and Lucas electrics but hopefully not annoying the angry pixie gods who live in the cables enough to let their anger smoke escape 😉 All the best for the bells, stay safe and we'll see you in the New Year 🥃🥃

Great job on the binnacle. All the best.