Great to see another update. Absolutely brilliant result with the paint and the glazing. Your workmanship and perseverance are truly inspiring my friend. I will watch part 2 later on. Thanks for sharing.
Wouldn't mind a quick look at the rolling chassis every now and then to keep up with how it's all going. I really admire your skill and persistence. Thanks for showing us the project.
Not done much to it as have been working on the bodywork for what seams likes months ! Ive just edited the next one (roof), then its the bulkhead /roof/tub and door alignment .... hopeful that by next week the videos will be up to date ! Thanks for stopping by. mat
Hello Mat, Sorry I have been on the missing list, I'm back now... Looks like you've made great progress, well done. I am off to watch part two now. Take care. Paul,,
I am getting the feeling of peeking over the brow of whats been a big hill to climb' any luck and I should be able to freewheel down the backside soon ! Cheers Paul. mat
Looking good…. taking shape… Might be worth a check on that last pop rivet we saw being done on screen, looks like it left a little sharp bit where the pin snapped out the middle..
If I were to use the hand scraping analagy - I am at that tricky stage where I've just give the face a new scrape over and 'if I've done it right, it should all now come in on this print - then its spotting and breaking up the big areas' - the critical bit is 'if Ive done it right :-) Hope you are well Brian. Mat
Yeh, been a bit pre-occupied and not had motivation to upload much. So the etch primer is traditional solvent based from Paintman Paints - appears to do its job well, thinned to 30-40% with its bespoke acide solvent. Then its Upol primre filler 2K - thats been great - used around 12ltrs thus far and got wings n doors n bonnet to do. Final top coat is enamel from paintman paint. Watch the next upload as I talk about my view on the paint systems. Im a beginner with no experience prior to this - so might not be relevent / interesting if youve been spraying before. All the best Mat
@@livingoffgridinscotland I guess things to decide are if you are likely to want to touch up damage ata later date, the coach enamel is probably a quicker job for touching up - as long as you can keep it dry for 48hrs. 2K certainly has its advantages in application, what put me off was the 'H&S' stuff and the more I read the more confused I got with clear coats etc and the issues with etch primer, primer filler then colour then clear.... seamed like a lot of coats. In reality, Ive done etch primer, then 2-3 coats primer/filler (2k) then 2-3 coats of enamel - each coat was a day and left overnight. I used the Upol because it was recommended to me by an experianced auto spray expert friend. Along with extra fast hardner and thinner. Not having forced drying - he advised the extra fast and overnight drying time. I havenet had a problem between the paints. I did start with a Raptor 2K primer filler on the bulkhead and it was a failure - not sure why, but I have a near enough full tin and thinner available ! Paintman Paint have been very helpful, and their service is great. I havent decided what I would do if I tried another full respray - one things for sure I would want a bigger workshop !
Looking really good. Bit of a shame about the scratches, but it's a working vehicle and I don't think that it's anything to beat yourself up about. You could touch them in if you can be bothered. Have you tried Woollies for the rubber extrusions ? Best wishes.
I masked the rubber n glass and went over it with another coat - it is far from perfect but its protected. Managed to get seals sorted and got window seals for a good price £6/mtr and the two main seals from a series landy parts specialist - they went in fine.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great to see another update. Absolutely brilliant result with the paint and the glazing. Your workmanship and perseverance are truly inspiring my friend. I will watch part 2 later on. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it
Wouldn't mind a quick look at the rolling chassis every now and then to keep up with how it's all going. I really admire your skill and persistence. Thanks for showing us the project.
Not done much to it as have been working on the bodywork for what seams likes months ! Ive just edited the next one (roof), then its the bulkhead /roof/tub and door alignment .... hopeful that by next week the videos will be up to date ! Thanks for stopping by. mat
Hello Mat,
Sorry I have been on the missing list, I'm back now... Looks like you've made great progress, well done. I am off to watch part two now.
Take care.
Paul,,
I am getting the feeling of peeking over the brow of whats been a big hill to climb' any luck and I should be able to freewheel down the backside soon ! Cheers Paul. mat
Looking good…. taking shape…
Might be worth a check on that last pop rivet we saw being done on screen, looks like it left a little sharp bit where the pin snapped out the middle..
Oh yes, we check all of Nats work 🤓
Gday, starting to all come together now mate, great job, cheers
Thanks 👍
It’s not hand scraping but slow and steady gets you there!
If I were to use the hand scraping analagy - I am at that tricky stage where I've just give the face a new scrape over and 'if I've done it right, it should all now come in on this print - then its spotting and breaking up the big areas' - the critical bit is 'if Ive done it right :-) Hope you are well Brian. Mat
Came up nice mate 👍🇦🇺
Thanks 👍
Lookin nice !!
Thanks!
good job! Could you tell me where or how to get the tool to install the window gasket?
EBay, auto glazing tool. They are quite inexpensive at £15 , be sure to get one with multiple tips. Mine was branded Lazer.
I was waiting on your next instalment!
Are you using single pack or 2pack paint?
Yeh, been a bit pre-occupied and not had motivation to upload much. So the etch primer is traditional solvent based from Paintman Paints - appears to do its job well, thinned to 30-40% with its bespoke acide solvent. Then its Upol primre filler 2K - thats been great - used around 12ltrs thus far and got wings n doors n bonnet to do. Final top coat is enamel from paintman paint. Watch the next upload as I talk about my view on the paint systems. Im a beginner with no experience prior to this - so might not be relevent / interesting if youve been spraying before. All the best Mat
@@lookcreations is top coat 2k
I’ve just been using upol 2k black filler primer today on my axles and metal ribs for under the rear tub
@@livingoffgridinscotland Top coat is a synthetic enamel. So traditional solvent based paint.
@@lookcreations thanks, just seen your second video
Just about to order paint myself
@@livingoffgridinscotland I guess things to decide are if you are likely to want to touch up damage ata later date, the coach enamel is probably a quicker job for touching up - as long as you can keep it dry for 48hrs. 2K certainly has its advantages in application, what put me off was the 'H&S' stuff and the more I read the more confused I got with clear coats etc and the issues with etch primer, primer filler then colour then clear.... seamed like a lot of coats. In reality, Ive done etch primer, then 2-3 coats primer/filler (2k) then 2-3 coats of enamel - each coat was a day and left overnight. I used the Upol because it was recommended to me by an experianced auto spray expert friend. Along with extra fast hardner and thinner. Not having forced drying - he advised the extra fast and overnight drying time. I havenet had a problem between the paints. I did start with a Raptor 2K primer filler on the bulkhead and it was a failure - not sure why, but I have a near enough full tin and thinner available ! Paintman Paint have been very helpful, and their service is great. I havent decided what I would do if I tried another full respray - one things for sure I would want a bigger workshop !
Looking really good. Bit of a shame about the scratches, but it's a working vehicle and I don't think that it's anything to beat yourself up about. You could touch them in if you can be bothered. Have you tried Woollies for the rubber extrusions ? Best wishes.
I masked the rubber n glass and went over it with another coat - it is far from perfect but its protected. Managed to get seals sorted and got window seals for a good price £6/mtr and the two main seals from a series landy parts specialist - they went in fine.
Traduire en Francais.Mercie
I will see if it is possible via RUclips subtitles