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You’re so creepy dude, can’t stand watching you.

Once in a while I'll have shadows appearing around a fan that won't respond to my regular methods. I'll flatten the image and use the object selection tool on the fan and then inverse. Now I'll use the dropper to get a good color selection near fan and just use the Brush to paint over the offending shadow. Adjust your opacity and flow as needed. Quick Fix!

Very well explained regarding the doubling of depth of field ( not the misunderstanding of aperture). I am lucky enough to have acquired several Olympus MFT cameras and have recently added the OM5 ( replacing my EM5mkiii) to my collection. Paired with smaller lenses it’s ideal as an every day camera. Have just found your channel and will sub, thank you .

Do you think this works with a westscott flash

What is the difference between silicon dome diffuser and plastic dome diffuser which comes in ak r1 kit

Why earlier you used color mode, but now you returned to luminosity mode ?

I often ask realtors, do you ever wonder why so manty listing photos look exactly the same? Then I tell them, it's because most of them are shipped off to India or Asia for editing....then I have them look ay flambient which I can return the same day....sold.

You dont need adapter for v1 and godox difuser. your magmod diffuser already old and looks yellow. also diffusers people buy to shoot people not walls

Love mine ! 😎👍

For enfuse or hdr a really fast cpu is best. With as many cores as possible. For alignment a really fast gpu. Minimal 16 gb for Lightroom but 32 is better. Without align and just jpg enfuse can be 1,5 second for a 3 AE bracket. I recommend EnfuseGUI to drag drop the brackets. Don’t stack in LR and keep the library small and fast. Yes a different cable will work on Panasonic.

Hello, I have a problem with this lamp, I would like it to trigger 3 other lamps with it but at same time do not flash V1, it is possible in the quadralite version, if I change the mother mode to M to -- v1 still flashes, do you know any solution? Thank you very much

The mac studio is a MASSIVE upgrade over the MacBooks. Been incredible for me

⁠ I have no doubt the M2 will run faster. While I’m doing all of my work on Lightroom and Photoshop, I probably have 15 tabs open in Safari because I don’t want to close them. So the speed is really quite good but if you want to use it more, absolutely go for the M2. but the big thing to slow this computer down is the amount of RAM. 16 is just not enough.

Really good and useful tutorials, earned yourself a sub👍

Hello Joe, nice looking video, I’ve never tried doing HDR plus flash, generally just Flambient You asked about the Mac, I bought the 14 inch M1 with 16 gigs of ram and it’s plenty fast enough running Photoshop and Lightroom and other programs at the same time, I never have to wait. If I had to do it over again, I would absolutely go with 32 gigs of ram. So if you have a choice, and need to save some money, instead of the M2 or M3, go with the M1, but buy 32 gigs of ram.

Been watching a ton of these tutorials but they were all a little confusing, your's just perfect and very simple to follow. Also love the Jesus sticker, God bless brother 👍

How much do you typically find yourself dropping the exposure, if at all, before your flash pops? 2 stops? None?

EnfuseGUI is a good alternative for the Enfuse plugin that is maybe not supported in LR on Mac.

Hi!!!! I'm hoping you see this. Im just learning how to do all of this (im talking brand new over here....) do you have a video on how you made your presets? Or rather good presets to start out with? Thanks!

Thank you for the tutorial. How many stops are you under exposing your camera, when doing the flash pops? Thanks Joe.

Literally watching all your videos....learning alooot

This is freaking brilliant. I've been shooting HDR pretty exclusively for close to 10 years, and this explains flambient better than I've ever seen. To boot, it will DRAMATICALLY improve my shoot workflow. Now all I need is a reliable remote triggering process for a sony and this will fundamentally improve my workflow. Holy crap dude.

The way we criticize our own work 😅😅😅😅😅

sometimes I do something similar - but I need a little more umph....so I use an iFootage magic arm on the side of my camera cage and attach an EC200 extension to my AD200 with a round head (a little heavier than a speed light - but not by a lot, that EC200 is pretty light weight; the AD200 body is clamped to the leg of my tripod. The negative is a little heavier - the positive, if you accidentally toe tap your tripod, it's less likely to move. I get more power, same convenience as your set-up. and get to use my regular hot shoe remote, which for me is a little easier to see and use (I'm old and have glasses).....same principal, different road. On a side note, when using a magic arm, I can tilt it into the room a little more when a door jam may normally eat up most of the light on a camera mounted speed lite.

I want to start e RE photography business. I’m not a trained photographer but have been shooting landscapes for a bit now. I’m so overwhelmed. I don’t know where to even start. Watched hundreds of RUclips videos. It seems that you need to be a one stop shop to even make it. Stills, video, drones, virtual tours, floor plans, etc. by the time I learn all of it, I’ll retire from corp world. Plus you gotta have a website with your work. Getting all that knowledge and equipment before I even start takes time and thousands of dollars. I’ve got a canon 5d classic but my lenses aren’t good for RE. They are 35, 50 and 200mm, and 16-35mm used canon lenses are $700-900. Drones are at least 1k. 360 cameras are $500-1000k. It makes my head spin. Do you have any advice for someone like me on where to start and what to buy and what services to start with? Thank you in advance.

Guys. I cant figure it out. I have godox v1pro. 100% i can connect my other godox v350 flash to be triggered ?

A like and subscription just for the sticker! Love seeing my brothers in Christ loving God unashamedly 👊🏾

Good tip with the custom button…

I watched your video twice just now and noted that you were complaining about the lag moving files from Photoshop back to Lightroom. I think I see a possible fix, plus a suggestion to use an Action. I noticed when you went to Save the file in Photoshop back to Lightroom that there were 8 files open in Photoshop at the top of the screen (video at 11:32). And it looks like six of those files are TIF files that I regularly see at about 120MB in size EACH. Those files are tying up a lot of RAM memory! That could be what's slowing things down when Photoshop is saving the file back to Lightroom! I wrote an Action that closes down the file each time Photoshop transfers the file back to Lightroom, thereby freeing up the RAM (so there are NO files showing up at the top of the screen in that space). The sequence is Ctrl-F to Flatten, Ctrl-S to Save, then CTRL-W to Close. The problem I ran into with this sequence in an Action is that at the Save step, the computer takes a couple seconds to Save while the next command executes and then doesn't Close the file. One solution is to add a Stop after the Save so that a screen pops up during execution of the Action where you can hit OK and proceed. That step is added after the CTRL-S step by clicking on The Hamburger Menu at the upper right of the Action window, then "Insert Stop", you can put a message in the dialog box that opens up to "hit OK to proceed", then end the Action with the CTRL-W to close, then stop the recording. The Action can be programmed into a CTRL or ALT key combination, then hit the OK key to proceed past the Stop step. It will save a few keystrokes over the three CTRL- sequences. May be CTRL sequence on the left side of the keyboard with the left hand and hit the OK button with the right hand. Another option here is to program these steps into a mouse button with a program like X-Mouse Button Control (it's for the PC platform, FREE!). Here is the string in X-Mouse that will execute the pause automatically: {CTRL}F{Wait:1}{CTRL}S{Wait:2}{CTRL}W This saves a TON of mouse clicks for EVERY photo! As far as the question of machine performance, I found that there are some super deals on retired Dell office computers (I have NEVER owned a Mac computer because of price). I bought a Dell 800 G4 on eBay, added a 500GB disk-on-a-card that plugs directly into the motherboard, plus another 500GB SSD and 32GB of RAM. The system processor is an i7-8700 3.2GHz. All in for just under $250. This combination of components has revolutionized the speed of my editing process. Throw in some Actions and you'll be flying!

Back to report, after using the ML-CD15 on my Godox 520 for several months, that it is getting the job done as good or better than using the shoot through umbrella. It's easy to bounce back on the ceiling or point forward from next to the camera. I found a tool holster on Amazon that it fits into perfectly.

Hi Joe, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. After 10 plus years of shooting full frame canon (6d mkii with 11-24 and 17 TSE- I’ve recently started watching your videos and I’ve bought a OMD1 mk1 and the 7.5 laowa a month or so ago (hoping to save my back). Do you have a video on how you configured your camera to override the flash on custom 2.

Hi Joe, good to see you again. You're a busy guy...good for you!

My 2¢…I’ve created a preset for my lens details, then when I import, I choose that preset…saves time…2ndly, I’ve mounted my AD200 to my cage, on the side, with a MagMod dome, then I’ve been experimenting with placing/firing off several other little Godox flashes in other rooms, ala light farming, when needed…sped up my workflow…still use your previous color/darken tricks with dup layers, but have a PS action…very fast

How do you deal with weird unnatural shadows from flash pops though? Like on the humidifier thing in the far right corner of the room; after a flash pop there is a shadow on it - do you have a good technique to get rid of those things?

Im thinking of getting the GH7. Sounds like you'd live it. Its like an upgraded S5ii but MFT. My problem is that i want the lower depth of field and worry the MFT will be too limiting to my photography. Tough choices ahead...

is there any working method now without pasting the adapter?

Hi Joe, sorry I am confused. I am trying to assimilate this technique but I thought the blending mode for flambience was luminosity instead of lighten. I understand you used lighten in order to blend together the different flash pics but what about ambient layer and flash (composite) layer?

Aaaaah, that's cool! I am also into real estate and interiors with an E-M1X and an E-M1III as a backup 📸 Cheers from Bulgaria!

Im struggling with this. I cant change my v1 to a transmitter

OMG... I've been trying to figure out that problem for a long time. Distance limitation from trigger.

Hi there , most of the photos I have seen do have the house fixture lights on , but you do not . Does it help or makes it worse when you have them on ?

Thank you for this. Exactly the video I needed to make my decision. I’m going to save money. I’m going with Godox

Made to look super easy... brilliant.

It’s working well for me, but I’m having trouble getting it to fully remove me when I blend with the gradient tool. It shows me faintly, transparent but still visible. What do I need to adjust so it blends it better?

Pheww I needed this ! I got to do a quinceañera next week. So I’m lookin at this tutorial haha

omg thank you for this !! i almost got the wrong one

Just use magnets & super glue it on GODOX ML-CD15 so it will stick to your flash that has metal parts.

yes but iso performance is also twice as bad so you could jut shoot full frame at f8 on a higher iso and have similar results... this argument is thrown around way too much (and i say this as a m43 user)

Great videos, Joe. Tell me why you use a white layer mask with a black foreground selected verses a black layer mask and a white foreground. Does that have anything to do with luminosity mode versus normal, darken or lighten blending modes?

Cool, but it doesn't look natural at all.