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Love it. Thank you. Been wanting to do the same with my Glock 43x. A lot of people under estimate the 43x. With the right upgrades it would be rocking reliable 43x

My shield arms mags haven't had 1 failure in probably 300 rounds or so this last year I've shot it.

Have you seen the black steel gas pedal

Keep that paper towel!😂 it bring all the goods to the table LITERALLY! Great video brother

Just FYI, Springfield has changed the spring weight to 10 pound, so it was probably an issue.

Someone back the adjustment screw out too far.. example under 3lbs. Plus old dried grease in trigger... if you look inside, you'll see the sear never catches the firing pin, only the saftey. Easy fix clean the trigger,oil lightly adjust trigger pull to 3 lbs.

You can buy horse stall mats which is the same material and make 4 targets from one sheet. Use some white spray paint and have the same thing for less than $10 per target.

It’s funny to me. So many people say Prodigy fixes. My 4.25 Prodigy is just under 2700 rounds and I’ve only had two failures to eject. Both with junk Remington UMC ammo. Other than that factory and flawless. I mean, it’s definitely not my Staccato XC. But, it works just fine.

The guys over at Tundra Tactical (might have been trex arms) recently went over this in one of there "different generations" videos. Millennials and genZ tend to not actuate the safety unless there is no more shooting to be done. Finger come off the trigger and that's enough. Older folks (and people trained by them) tend to use the safety each and every time the gun comes off target.

No offense but it amazes me that people bought the hype with these. Nothing inorganic is self healing without some sort of energy applied to it. Maybe 22lr wouldn't degrade it as much but $130 for some glorified rubber targets was wild to me when they came out just as that's a wild price to me now.

Do you trust your life with this gun??

You’ve gotta rack the 1911/2011s so you can get an accurate trigger weight pulling the hammer back isn’t a good overview of the trigger weight. You got to rack it so the disconnector can play a factor in the trigger pull by racking the slide. If you don’t you’ll get a lighter trigger pull which isn’t accurate since that’s not how the gun operates under load/live fire.

I mix my training up with steel and cardboard, and just apply 3” shoot n see pasters on the cardboard along the A zone, particularly the manubrium. Same concept as the Infinity target at minimal cost.

500 steel is the deal. If you are going to have to paint it anyway steel is the way to go. $130,00 would buy you the exact target in steel last year. I don't get anything back from the steel as long as it has a good forward angle on it like yours, I have felt some spalling coming down from overhead but nothing coming straight back. No customer service says a lot about a product and I am glad to see someone finally telling like it is. Too many companies get let off the hook. For the price you paid you should have an immediate answer if there is an issue with the product. Still patently waiting on the finish of the CCP .45 and watching you find the magic torque spec on the stock screw of that 10-22. Enjoyed it as usual.

BCM Bolts are HPT (High Pressure Tested) meaning they are fired with an over pressured 556 round to make sure everything is tough as nails

It lasts longer if you’re a bad shot I guess 😂

Should’ve waited on the radian ramjet for the p365 I heard about it and instantly said the build can wait

After watching this I ordered one and tightened up my Kimber slide it worked great but you need a real good strong vise I also fit a new bushing but realized the barrel hood has too much slop so I ordered a new gunsmith fit barrel.

The reason you would put it on safe is because, as you stated, you don't know what the problem is. It could be something as simple as you didn't reset the trigger. Now you have a loaded gun without the safety enguaged swinging and potentially causing a ND and injury.

I am a formally trained master armorer with over 20 years on the AR platform. Have you simply tried a higher quality upper to begin with? Try a BCM4 standard Bravo Company flat top upper and a good quality barrel. You should freeze the barrel and heat the upper. They are an interference fit. I get great accuracy and battle rifle reliability every time. Nice video and kudos for trying to re invent the wheel.

If you have the slide fitting bars, you can just use a hammer. My biggest concern is the cheap metal that China often uses to copy our products will wear alot faster and I don't know if it will hold up to much bending without causing micro cracks.

Is this gun review or holster review

You’re engaging the safety during the transition so there’s no time lost if the action is committed in muscle memory.

"We suck" speak for yourself 😂 safety always on unless ready to fire. Less then a second. Make it practice always before shooting flip the safety off. But if 3 people are actively shooting I'm most likely grabbing whatever has rounds in it then getting my rifle ready to fire after. Interesting topic though. Curious to read other comments.

Putting a dead or empty rifle on safe in a life or death situation is like dead centering a tree in your car and applying the park brake. Duh...It's empty or it's dead but if you take the time to put it on safe instead of engaging a deadly target YOU will be dead too. Just like the dead cops we were finding back in the day with a left hand full of spent brass out of their revolver. Bad habits cost time and sometime lives. And besides all of that, if you keep that bugger hook off the trigger it's still safe whether the switch is on or off. The operator is the main safety on any firearm period.

Safe, if ur not actively engaging, it's on safe.

Good food for thought id like to see what others say as well. I usually turn the safety back on anytime I come off target just for the sake of not develop training scars and not to stray from standard procedures

By partially shiiming the extension the way you did, you may have actually promoted the barrel not being centered. Assuming a reasonably tight fit to the upper, the barrel will center itself. If you use shim material, it should go all the way around the to accomplish what you were seeking. Really, no reason to shim. The barrel nut compressing the threads on the receiver will center the barrel and the green loctite will swell as it sets to fill the void. I've disassembled many uppers bedded with green loctite without the use of shim material and saw no evidence that the extension failed to center itself in the upper. Still, if you just feel that you must use shim material, go all the way around with it. In your video, you trimmed away shim material leaving the top unsupported. I'll bet that if you applied some heat with a torch, it would have fit.

don't know why the lug cutter was not necessary, must be the wilson barrel was a drop fit not a gunsmith fit, technically if you stop the slide a 1/2 inch before battery it should not go in on its own supposed to be pushed in, per kunhausen manual, personally I would rather see your stoning and filing rather than you just telling me you stoned and filed. I do enjoy your adventures keep them up!

I bought a shot timer and used it yesterday for the first time. Apparently I’m pretty fast. I had .18-.19 splits, 6 shots @ 1.26 doing the bill drill. 5” prodigy with 11lb spring.

Did i hear a ricochet?😬

15% discount on this optic?!!?! Order from Amazon and use promo code NOBODYTC15

Faxon match grade barrels. No need for any of that as they are an exact fit.

I loved every min of this video

You suggest using perpendicular instead of concentric. To explain in the machinist world those words mean two completely different things. Concentricity is referring to the fact that they are perfectly on the same axis. Or at least as close to that as is possible perpendicular would mean they are 90° offset for each other. Concentricity is extremely important when you have two separate parts that are machined at different times. Two cuts will never be the same so you have to true items to each other. Therefore making them concentric there's a lot of different processes and some are more accurate than others put in general concentricity and perpendicular are two completely different things. Hope this helps

Damn good video brother got to love the surprise that keep showing up. I have almost the exact same set up with my 43x. I went with the Tungsten guide rod.

New sub here. I like what you're doing. I can't say this enough when it comes to the trigger safety pin. Use lots of loctite. Mine would keep backing out and I would lose it. That's with my G45 though, but Im sure its the same on the 43x.

This makes me glad that my "inferior" Ruger M77 tang safety has never given me even a hint that it could ever do this, although I always have the barrel pointed in a direction where it could harm nothing whenever I switch off the safety.

They run better when they're loose😅

How annoying is it to try to field strip it with that comp 😂

For the viewers out there- if the 1911 slide stops with the cartridge almost aligned with the bore then it is likely an extractor that is a little bit too tight. The rim of the cartridge coming up from below and going under the extractor doesn't have enough leverage to push the extractor over.

I think these are options when you have inferior quality parts, and there's that much slop that needs to be corrected. A better solution would be to invest in a quality armorer's course and learn the why's of what seperates quality from inferior products and after that once you know which companies invest in their customers and take pride in their work and care, it becomes much easier to build, pretty much all but guaranteed everything will marry together in a sympohny of awesomeness. Of course, there are no absolute guarantees when human error is ever lurking and possible, but for the most part, quality parts fit together even when made by different manufacturers because they adhere to the fundamental specifications. You greatly increase the probability of not having fitment or function issues. Not all ar's are created equal.

Love it, damn, just when I thought I was done spending money. I watched this video, the compensator and the trigger is a must have now. 😢 subbed.

The Midwest URR will also perfectly align your barrel to your upper receiver. There is enough slop on your indexing pin that you can actually put the barrel in with a slight cant. What will happen is your locking lugs will drag on the extension, and your feed ramps won’t line up right with your m4 feed ramps in the upper. Best tool I ever bought for my toolbox.

Been saying this for years. Buy a quality barrel, bcg, upper, and some quality glass. Good trigger will take the meathead out of the equation some.

aye man smooth build. so many surprises. What the heck is this?!?

You should get your own talk show. Sir talks a lot

Using a reaction type of mounting tool, one w a “wing” that goes into the charging handle/gas tube slot in my opinion stabilizes the barrel extension and the upper receiver and during proper torquing (ie. pushing/stabilizing the barrel towards the tool) while torquing does a better job and the most realistic alignment/ mounting for the platform. Some upper tools that mimic Geisele are better due to barrel extension lock up but it also personal preference. Advise staying away from aluminum models unless build usage is not going be excessive due to over stressing the tool. Also, I believe this was stated but if not , during mounting , torque barrel w 33ms or copper anti seize and do it three times as in torquing back off nut, thread 3/4 ish of the nut and retorque and repeat for three times . From there, increase torque in 5ft lbs increments until realistic alignment and try not to exceed 65lbs( personal preference) allowed up to 80lbs G.I. Spec nut. But excessive torque “ possibly”can rreact w undesired receiver stretching creating “possibly “ a less accurate rifle. That’s most specifically w steel Gi nuts , consider barrel nut shims past if it’s needs to go past 65lbs to time correctly. Strictly one persons opinion…ps edit almost forgot , realistically doing anything of this properly w a “ reaction “ rod esque tool, the notion of snapping a alignment pin / damage receiver should truly be a misnomer as if done correctly and either issue arises, it would arise during at some point during use and personally feel I’d rather discover component failure here than when it’s actually needed. Summed up, minimal chance of damage to quality functional parts.