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@@russellkeith3193 I believe you can buy them for the ecotech mp pumps And also I have made my own using filter sponge blocks and cutting them about with a bit of trial and error.

Some would say yes and have done it but In my experience this doesn’t work for most there are a few reasons for this I think that stability it probably the most important factor a fish will tolerate a much bigger swing in temperature, salinity, PH, Ect. If you add a nem to this system using tap water then it may do okay if it’s a stable system but this may still be stressful for the nem but not enough on it own to cause it to show if any of the other water cemetery is out of balance or fluctuating then it’s likely to be a problem. In most cases the best part of a fish only tank is being able to treat with medication when needed and if you have used meds in the past this can also result in residual levels of copper or whatever that is toxic to invertebrates. So although it’s not a straight no it’s generally not considered a good idea Unless you are paying close attention to water parameters and confident you are treating the tap water probably. Also even when you do everything right depending on where the nem comes from can have a big impact on your success Try to get one that is tank bred that is accustomed to life in a tank and not the ocean this will help a lot. Hope this is helpful

@raisingreef339 Thx you for you information i will try it. I use prime with my tap water. thx you

@@mckessa17 hi there are a few reasons your coral loose colour. One reason is high nutrients in the water this can feed the zooxanthellae in the corals this photosynthetic algae is brown so can dominate in the coral tissue making the corals look dull and brown. Another reason these can increase is low light as they will increase in number to produce enough energy for the coral so you will have lots of zooxanthellae working to photosynthesis the light if you increase the light level a single zooxanthellae can produce the same energy that many would be needed to so the efficiency is higher and therefore the colour of the coral isn’t dominated by the colour of the algae. But if you increase the light to quickly and the zooxanthellae start to produce oxygen quicker than the coral can release it from its tissue the coral will stress and shed the zooxanthellae in an attempt to survive and this is called bleaching that makes the coral go pale or white and it can take a long time to recover and regain its colour this is why you must increase light levels slowly over time so your don’t shock the corals and stress them. And try to keep nutrients lower and in check. Not sure exactly what issue your dealing with in your tank but hopefully with this explanation you will have a better understanding about what’s happening to your corals.

@@Chrispfish-m8v hi at this moment in time I have no plans to make new videos as I was forced to shut down my tank and I’m unsure when I will be able to return to reefing but I still have my equipment and one day hope to reset up my tank and have a reef once again. Glad you found my video helpful and thanks for your support. 🙏🏻

@@raisingreef339 Hi Rob, great shame your channel is a little gem. I have just started watching your back catalogue and enjoying very vid. When you return I will look forward to that day for the next raising reef video. Take care 👍

Thanks sadly it’s been shut down for a while now and I’m not sure when if ever I will get it going again. Sometimes life gets in the way.

It’s for cooling the tank through evaporation it’s quite effective and in the uk it’s usually sufficient.

@@raisingreef339 that’s rad!

I would feed once or twice a week if you have clownfish inhabiting it then they will often feed the nem plus it will eat there poo so not essential for you to feed them. Also I would feed krill shrimp or a clump of misiss shrimp sometimes muscle

Sorry for late reply I used two ecotech MP10 on the back of the tank to assist the return flow from the sump this worked very well for this set up.

There are some anemones from some Oceans that are not very suitable for home aquarium so if the animals you are buying are of this type that could be your issue. I’m sorry I can’t remember what oceans this refers to exactly as it was a long time ago so some research into this may help. This also applies to species some anemone are much better at surviving in aquariums and others don’t do well. Plus some animals in the shops aren’t always in the best health and could be already close to death and often moving it to another environment finishes it off. My advice is to always buy animals that are captive bread for the best chance of success these are already used to aquarium life and generally harder. If you are confident the anemone you are buying are healthy then you need to look at your acclimatisation techniques and aquarium conditions Although you parameters may seem within acceptable levels there may be contamination in your tank that affects inverts specifically like copper or aluminium for example there are many elements that can be in the water that we don’t test for that can cause us issues. In this instance doing a series of water changes and running activated carbon could also help to resolve the problems your experiencing. Hope this is of some help and you have success keeping anemone going forward as they are a wonderful addition to a reef tank.

Hi thanks for you kind words From what you describe it sounds like the light is a bit strong for them It can be hard to satisfy all your corals/inverters in what is a relatively small depth of water creating some shade with an overhang can help to prevent this to much light reaching them. Or if you can reduce the light level a little over time to see how the tank inhabitants react. Hope this helps and glad you enjoyed my video 👍🏻

Hi congrats on setting up your tank. I find it best to get fish that don’t compete for space so fish that will occupy the sand bed, the rocks, the central water column and those that like it closer to the top. I personally like the smaller fish like gobies and blennys but have a read up on any you like the look of as some are more likely to become a pain for one reason or another although there are no guarantees. Also fire fish are great but they can jump out if you don’t have a cover and they can pick on each other so need to be in more than just a pair. I always say what ever catches your eye read up on and make a decision on wether you think it will be happy in your tank based on the other fish you have or want to add and the size and layout of your tank. But in many cases these rules are a guide and there will be different opinion’s on that is ok based on their own experience. I Hope this is helpful and I hope your tank brings you many hours of joy.

In my follow up to this video I determined that the urchin was eating the Coraline algae on the rocks and it only appeared to be the purple polyps it was after.

I no longer have a reef tank running But at the time of the video It was something like. dkh 10 Calcium 420 Mg 1200 No3 2ppm Po4 0.25

That light is the hydra 32HD on the flex arm bracket.

Not that I could tell for sure but it always grows back as the tiniest remnants will regrow I found that not a scrubbing it off and letting it grow it would clump up and break off and float around the tank and eventually end up growing in other areas anyway. The best solution is if possible removing the affected rock and scrubbing outside the tank and rinsing off before putting back.

@@raisingreef339 so scrubbing will allow kill cloves and reduce spread? Can I scrub will rock is still in tank?? I can’t remove the rock that it sits on

Well I can’t guarantee it won’t help spread the polyps but I would use a syphon and suck out the particles as I scrubbed every time I did a water change to reduce the chance of spreading. Hope this helps.

You can have fish and they do know to stay ways unless it’s a carpet anemone and they can be good at eating you fish Bubble tips are usually the safe bet and if you do see a fish getting eaten by one of these it’s usually a case of poorly or dead fish ending up in it rather than being killed by it. Also some fish and shrimp will be hosted by nems so if you get some clowns fish there is a good chance the will live in it.

If your not getting any nitrate then I would question what’s happening to the ammonia I would get a second opinion on the water test with a different test kit to be sure it’s reading right.

@@raisingreef339 I’m using api salt water test kit so may be the reason. Iv just noticed today that iv got a bit of a bacterial bloom. Ill send off some water to be tested.

@@conorjagger9617 as I recall with api it always gives the lowest reading even when it’s 0 We used them in the shop I worked in as they were cheep.

No not that I can remember it was impossible to get very last bit off the rock so it would grow back from the tiniest piece but only usually in areas it was already growing. I would definitely say where possible remove the rock and scrub in a bucket of water separate to your tank but this isn’t always practical.

@@raisingreef339 this may be a case where I can try to get to know them more. They don't seem to be bothering much. I have put putty over patches where I add coral so it gives the coral a chance to encrust.

There is always a solution 👍🏻

Hi Jim I can’t remember the settings I had running as I shut the tank down and can’t access the info anymore I think it was simply 5% white 0% green and red and 80% on all the others. Give that a try and see how you think it compares to how it looked on camera as this doesn’t always show the colour how it looks in life. Hope this helps.

@@raisingreef339 I was thinking it was something along those lines, I’m acclimating some goniopora with lowers light settings at the moment but once they are happy I will give them a go, it looked to be a pretty much mixed Sps, LPS and soft tank you had, I’m sag you shut it down, what happened?

@@jimelliott33 The room I had it in is an old garage that wasn’t converted properly so it was very cold and I had issues with condensation on the walls that led to mould on everything in my studio so with no other suitable conditions please to relocate the tank I had to close it down.

That sounds good soft corals and nems seem to be more than capable of keeping them in check

Yes this dose seem to be common but from what I herd it had been addressed. Apparently not from your experience Thanks for the compliment could be helpful for someone els.

they can't fix bright UV damaging plastic, that's just the way it is

That’s a sad story for sure. I think this issue is more so with particular types of Nem I have had a few bubble tips die over the years and know of many others that have had them die without issue. It may also have something to do with the size of the tank in comparison to the the Nem and also some tanks run on the brink of a crash and any issue can be enough to tip the balance. But as you say it is a risk like adding many other invertebrates to the tank and worth contemplating before introducing one. Thanks for your comment it may help others to make a more informed choose for there tank.

Hi this plant is band in most of the USA as it can cause havoc if it gets into the local waters. So it may not be that easy to get rid of I have fount it to be prolific in its growth and can regenerate from the tiniest piece. Urchins can make short work if it so if you have them in the local waters they may find they way to it or you could collect them up and put them among it and they may get to work and control it for you.

I do still have it but it’s part of the tank setup so not willing to split.

Hi thanks I can’t remember the the settings I used on the 26hd as I upgraded to the 32Hd and have subsequently shut down my tank I think it was the settings that BRS used for that light so if you can find there video about the 26hd those setting were close to what I used. Hope this is helpful

Sorry for the late response I had to check the tank as I couldn’t remember the sizes The drain lines are 32mm pipe and the return is 20mm

When the aquarium is new there is no need to pre mix the salt water as it will mix just fine in the aquarium before any livestock is present not even bacteria are present at that stage. This is common practice in the hobby and has never caused my any issues over the last 15yrs.

The first sign is whit lumps appear on the leaves and if that happens just pull out affected plants if you don’t spot this then next it will eject all its cells so it goes pale and looks like it’s dying. But as mentioned in the video if you separate it up into many individual plants it doesn’t seem to happen to all at the same time so even if you miss the event it shouldn’t be enough to harm the tank but trimming regularly and lighting 24hrs will also help stop this happening

This can work well to allow the anemone to settle before adding the corals however in practice this doesn’t always work out as at any point the anemone can start to move around sometimes months after staying put and appearing settled so this isn’t guaranteed to avoid issues.

One of my reply below has a link.