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At least $30 overpriced. Cup holder is useless if used as intended as an arm rest. Doubtful it will stay in place on rough roads with window down.

What year is your Montero?

Worked for a 2014 Toyota Camry as well, exact same issue. Thank you for posting this tip!

tengo una toyota sienna 2011 dejo de echar aire frio y el conpresor esta atibado cual pude ser la falla

I'm not so sure about the mobile 1 data base on my past experience using the mobile 1 oil. I feel my car didn't perform as good as it should using mobile 1. Hence why I switch to amsoil. The way it runs and perform after I made the switch is quite significant to where I can actually feel the difference it made to my car.

O'Reilly keeps a Santech part in stock. It's around $55 but if you need it fixed quickly, it works just fine. My 2013 Sienna just lost right side fan motor bearings. I'm replacing both motors.

Thank you for the video sir, I'll try it for my Toyota Camry 2014

Are the part numbers the same for a ‘15 Sienna?

Can i change with gas in it or i have to fisrt let the gas out of tha system before changing this solenoid?

Thank you so much for the video. Was about to replace the entire compressor on my 2015 Sienna but came across your video. I measured 150 psi on the high side with my gauges (about 93 degrees ambient) and I knew it was full of freon, so I was cautiously optimistic. For others reading this, you can access it completely from the top without removing anything, just have to have patience and slightly small hands. Would recommend when trying to remove after you have the snap ring out to grab some pliers and gently twist the solenoid back and forth. I did that wiggling it back and forth for about a minute before putting any pressure on it to remove it. Seemed to work itself fairly loose after about 30 seconds. Avoided snapping of the connector. Entire job took less than 2 hours, and almost all of that time was pulling a vacuum and refilling. Very happy wife, thanks for the great video!

Just picked one up, Definitely recommend it 👌🏻

Looks like you all had fun on your vacation. Hope all is doing well. Have a great Sunday ❤

Corrosion may be because of the lower plastic skid plate being gone

Cool seeing all the different markets and food. Also, the Sienna is looking proper!

Thanks for taking us along on your tour🙂

Wow. Thanks a lot. Your video helped me fix my Toyota Sienna van. I really appreciate your help and great explanation. Thanks. I have a very strong magnet and as I brought it close it clicked and the fan turned on. Then I put a small magnet the same like you have shown in the video and tested the ac. It works great now. Thanks for your help.🙏🙏🙏🙏

02 Montero with over 250k, I too suffered an hit an run, swiped on my driver and drivers passenger doors, Replaced doors with good junkyard doors, 2 years later still runs like nothing happened.

You had so much trouble because you should have added a little bit of pressure back into the system it's under vacuum ... So it was holding the sensor in.... I just use the small oil charge and put just enough in so that it had pressure to blow it out.... Comes out easy

There's nothing better than a good, honest video from someone who seemed very true to their words. Great work. I just bought mine this morning at 9:00am

I got 603 still got it from 2001

Does system need to be evacuated?

Amsoil hands down. I won’t use anything else.

How do you replace the two wheel lights for the 4wd? Any bulbs for them similar like this?

Do you have a video on how to install the rear tail lights and rear colights for the bumper?

Very helpful!

Looks like a wonderful vacation! Looking forward to some drone shots! 🤙

crazy, at least 2012-2022 seems like a good 10 years. we had a 2016 same issue and dead at 2023. i share your disappointment! glad the control valve swap worked!

Thank you for your video. Perhaps I missed it, but with the failed control valve, were you still able to see the failure on the gauges? I have a 2015 Sienna and its AC system seems a bit lacking. When I first fire up the car when it's been sitting in humid heat (it was 91 today with humidity of 60%) and let it idle, it's blowing at around 60 degrees at the vents. After about 20 or so minutes of driving it was finally getting down into the mid to low 40's from the vents. Am I just expecting too much from the system? It's an automatic AC unit, not a manual like yours.

Just use normal synthetic oils such as Kirkland, super tech or Amazon oil (since they are the same oil) and change every 5k for mixed driving and you’ll be fine. That’s for group 3 oils. No need to go with these fancy group 4 or mystery oils unless you are driving a race car. Complete waste of money and time if you do so. All oils have to meet same minimum specs. if you use GTLoils, which are high end group 3 or group 3+, such as pennzoil platinum uktra, with which you can go to go 7k miles mixed driving . If doing stop and go delivery and idling type of driving change. Every 3k and maybe 4k on GTL oils. If just highway miles on cruise control go 7 or 8k on normal synthetic and 10k on GTL. So that’s basically it. Use conventional oil if you have older car such as a truck from 2000 that you put only 1000 miles a year. Time wise synthetics upto 1 year and conventional upto 6 months. This way you are not wasting money and product and also protecting your engine. Group 4 and group 5 oils are for racing purposes and are a waste of money for your daily driver. People get fought up in brand loyalty instead of understanding that oil is primarily affected by heat cycles, fuel dilution and oxidation & shear wear, and not by miles driven. An oil with 2000 miles of a delivery vehicle that does all day idling and stop and go driving may mean more worn than someone who does 200 miles freeway driving daily and has 8k miles. Always use the weight specified by the automaker and do not deviate from it. Today’s tight tolerances and VCT engines need correct viscosity or engine damage will occur. No need to add additives either. If you are driving a race car, such as something with 700 hp and 12k rpm, then you need to worry about group 4 or 5 oils otherwise you are wasting your time and money. Your Toyota Camry or dodge 1500 hauling grocers or going to work and back at 55 mph does not need group 4 or 5 even though you love your car and “feel” that it will benefit from it 😂😂

Ironman 4x4 has an awesome quick disconnect mount that is pretty awesome and affordable. I purchased the quick disconnect when I bought an awning from them and it's super easy just 2 pins. My awning comes off and into storage when there is no trip planned for the near future.

I’ve owned this ratchet for 4 years with 2 years of use in field daily (field technician) doing repairs. I highly recommend the batteries, charger and ratchet all still works.

Is it worth it to get toyota parts or generic brands would suffice? Thanks

Do you have to unplug the negative battery cable to do this?

You should buy EZ Drain oil plus they are Great💯

I bought this in 2012. Still working good. You just remind how old we are getting.

How did you unplug the wire from the AC sensor. I did try to do on my Toyota RAV4 but it didn’t come out

I like you video my car is 1997 pajero

in wear metal no diff.

I can tell you firsthand what a legend Aaron is. I purchased a swag from Rainger during Covid and it went missing twice when it was shipped. Aaron when he was made aware of this got in his car and drove 4 hours to deliver my swag to my door. I live in outback Queesland so I was pretty impressed wth the company's service and cotinue to support Raingery putting their brand out there by word of mouth.

That impact driver tool is powerful! I thought it was pneumatic until it was shown complete in the video, I need one of those. Good video, will look for more in your channel.

Thanks for the video, I tried to take the valve out over the weekend and I could not do it with out putting a lot of pressure with the pliers. I did not want it to break it. I will try it another day.

where is the factory location for the door lock brain. the black box

Where you get your lip from? absolutely mint bro

I use to use mobile 1 full synthetic on all of my vehicles, but have been getting valve lifter rattling at every cold start. Until I decided to switch to amsoil signature series. With ever oil and filter change I did with mobile 1. I notice that the oil was very liquidy like water texture and the filter looks cooked. The motor oil just doesn't look like it has any of the lubricity quality left on it. With this new amsoil signature series. I notice that the valve lifter rattling was completely gone with every cold start. Which is how it should be with every start up. You shouldn't be hearing no valve lifter rattling during cold start. From now it's just gonna be amsoil for me. The oil life is just much better with amsoil signature series.

One of my cars has not been driven in 2 years (the battery was brand new 2 years ago). Do you think this would start it? Thanks!

I always love it when a foreign brand nobody knows about comes along and offers the same features as the well-known brands, gives you more accessories like a nice hard case and can sell it for a lower price. There's another video testing this Kimo against the famous Milwaukee M12 and there was was no major difference other than speed.

About to replace our compressor and this worked! Saved us a ton and have a happy wife thanks to you!

No magnet trick huh? 😔