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I think 80CrV2 is a great steel choice for a chef knife. It's extremely durable, and offers pretty good edge retention, with a relatively simple heat treatment. I'm curious to know why you wouldn't use 80CrV2 for a kitchen knife?

@@DavidMoonForge i prefer to use 135cr3 because it's more harder than 80crv2 ,but that's catch my attention. I will test 80crv2 soon for this kind of knife. Thanks for the answer.

@@Pripyat1986. I've never personally used 135Cr3, really just because of availability in the US. I've heard great things about that steel though. It's got a really high carbon content, so you can achieve a very hard blade out of the quench. Some people would prefer the added hardness and thus better edge retention, but generally harder blades are more difficult to sharpen. Depending on whether the knife is going to a home chef or a professional kitchen could make the difference in steel choice. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts if you compare the two steels on a chef knife.

Bummer dude. That sucks!

Thanks dude! 🤙

I do plan on making these with scales as well.

I agree that a Rockwell hardness tester is a much more accurate way to test the hardness of a blade. As you mentioned, they're far more expensive than this ~$50 set of hardness files. I've been in the market for one for awhile, and plan to get one soon. As far as the results from this knife, when you run a file across a surface that's been finished to 400-grit or so you're going to see surface scratches from almost all of the files. You can feel and hear how the file digs into the steel or not. That being said, the 60 Rc file scratched the surface, but felt like it skated. That's why I estimated the hardness of the blade around 60 Rc. I would expect a 60 Rc file to scratch the surface of another 60 Rc object, but probably not really be able to remove material. I think you brought up some good points, and that it would make for a good video comparing a true Rockwell hardness tester to these files and how they react to steels of different hardness. Thanks for watching, and commenting. 🤙

​@@DavidMoonForgeThanks for the clarity..I didn't think about the 400 grit finish..when shopping for a used HR-150a tester the little silver case has all the pricey accessories..often this is missing..stay far away from those..I was able to get a new but slightly damaged paint only unit for 1/2 cost..there's shipping / transport blocks inside that must be removed for it to function correctly..most damaged shipment dealer are clueless and sell cheap thinking the tester is damaged internally etc..the accessories alone are $400+ to replace..skip the tester without accessories..Cheers

@@agentcovert thanks for the advice!

That's what I'm talking about

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Thanks!

Thanks buddy! 🤙 Glad to see you're still around! 😁 This is one of the models I'm going to start making regularly in addition to custom orders.

Based on the heat treat, I'd say those were 1084.

No way, that's wild! 😂 I went to Blade Show Atlanta this year, but I didn't have a table. Do you have a website or socials I can check out?

I think the only downside to using water is that it can cause your diamond stone to rust. You'd probably need to blow it dry with an air compressor after each use.

​@@DavidMoonForgeI usually use water. When I'm done I rinse the stone well with running water, towel it off, then set it in the sun or even just the hairdryer to get it good and dry before putting it away. Started doing that after one did rust on me.

@@TTT69304 yeah, that would work. Whatever you can do to get it thoroughly dried quickly.

No, sharpening a recurve blade (I assume that's what you mean by a curved blade) is quite different. All of the same sharpening principles apply, but you'll want to use a round or oval shaped sharpening rod instead of a flat stone.

Thanks! 🤙

Thank you! Your epoxy is 🔥. 🤙

I can't promise it won't destroy your bank account! 😛 It's a Coal Iron Works 12-ton press. It's pretty awesome. I'm totally happy with it. I'd love to upgrade to a digital press controller so I don't need to mess around with all the different size kiss blocks.

Thank you! 🙏

What kind of knife do you want to see?

@@DavidMoonForge like a custom knife 🔪 or a bowie

@@guillermoalfaro2714 thanks for the feedback. I've got orders for a tanto EDC and a custom EDC for a firefighter. I'll work those videos into the mix. Thanks for watching. 🤙

@@guillermoalfaro2714 no Bowie orders in the queue right now. Lol, lots of chef knives. I'll see if I can make one just for fun one of these days.

Thanks! 🤙

Right on, I'm actually working on a batch of these right now. I should have them up on the website in a week or two.

What is the medium being used. Looks like gravel. Love the look.

@@fredwarner6980 yup, it's just garden gravel from the hardware store. I've tried some of the other polishing media, and I like gravel the best.

I use a ton of ironwood. IMO it's one of the best natural materials for a knife handle. It's naturally pretty water resistant, it doesn't swell or crack over time, and you can get some really beautiful grain variations. That being said, it's very dense and hard so it burns through saw blades. It's also naturally kind of oily, so it gums up sanding belts quickly and you can end up burning the wood. I cut it with a band saw, and I do all of the rough shaping with a 36 grit ceramic belt. I wouldn't try to go above 120 grit on a machine.

Lol, thanks. I think so too! 😛

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That was 3 coats.

Thank you! 😛 The handle scales are desert ironwood.

I forge in a slight taper from the spine to the edge, then I'll do a convex grind with a slack belt to apex the edge. The convex grind with the belt will only be on the bottom inch or so of the blade. I'll sharpen it at around 30 degrees. I basically treat this more like an axe or hatchet.

@@DavidMoonForge perfect, that’s what I wanted to know. Thank you so much

@@Niksow you bet, thanks for watching! 🤙

Yeah, you're probably right.

The press is a 12-ton press from Coal Iron Works. I'm not sure which other machines you're referring to. I built my 2x72 grinder. The forge is a heavily modified Hell's Forge double burner. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 🤙

I do 3 cycles in ferric chloride at 5 minutes each. After each cycle in the ferric, I sand with increasingly higher grit paper; 1000, 1500, 2000. That mostly just sands the highs and leaves the valleys relatively untouched. Next I etch in coffee for 2 hours. I pull out the blade, submerge it in baking soda water to neutralize the acid in the coffee, then rinse it with water. I blow it dry with the air compressor, and then let it sit overnight. After the oxides have set overnight I polish it with a sunshine cloth to get the final result.

Hey, I saw your email. I'll send you some options if you're interested in a knife. Thanks for watching! 🤙

Hey, I saw your email. I'll send you some options if you're interested in a knife. Thanks for watching! 🤙

@@DavidMoonForge my email storage is full I can't receive any email please give me your number

I think so too! 😁 Thanks for watching! 🤙

This is actually all 80CrV2. I just needed to weld up several layers of flat bar to get thick enough starting stock to make the knife.

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Thanks for watching! The handle is what connects the tool to the user. It can definitely make or break a knife. Oftentimes people pick up a knife and know immediately that they do or don't like it before they've ever used it to cut something.

Thank you! I appreciate that! 🤙

Thanks!

I use diamond stones by Ultra Sharp, and the angle guide is by Wedgek. There are links to both in the video description and on my website www.davidmoonforge.com under the product links tab.

@DavidMoonForge ok thank you very much.

You bet, thanks for watching! 🤙 I did a full video on sharpening awhile back. That might be helpful if you're looking for sharpening tips. ruclips.net/video/npKE-Hu4r3A/видео.htmlsi=3mmfhSe7BQtTgRLl

@DavidMoonForge i definitely struggle with it. I also struggle with figuring out if i did the heat treat correctly and have the blade hard enough. I am slow at this and slowly getting the things i need to be successful and making my first good knife, with a sharp edge.

@@chrismansfield3126 keep at it. Knife making is a journey, not a destination. The more knives you make, the better you'll get. Just keep learning and try to have fun with it. I've made a lot of knives that weren't even good enough to give away, let alone sell.

Yeah, I've seen that trick using a hacksaw blade. I attached one to the work bench once, but it always felt kind of slow and clunky to use. With the guillotine paper cutter I cut 2 - 4 sheets at a time, depending on the grit/thickness of the paper. That seems to be faster for me. I definitely like the smaller footprint of the hacksaw blade thing though. Thanks for watching and sharing! 🤙

@DavidMoonForge has the blade dulled at all with the paper cutter? Too be honest that was the reason I passed on that idea I thought the sandpaper would screw up the blade ro quickly.

@@TheMotownPhilly no, I've cut hundreds of sheets with it, and it still works great. You just need to apply some lateral pressure on the handle when you cut so that it pushes the blade arm towards the cutting platform.

Thank you! 🤙

Thank you! 🤙

It's the 12-ton press from Coal Iron Works.

I don't typically use flux when I forge weld. Soaking the billet causes the oil to burn off in the forge and leave a thin carbon film that protects the layers from oxygen. I've had good results with clean forge welds using this method. Flux eats away at your forge liner, so if I can avoid using it, I see it as a win.

How come? I've never worked with red sandalwood before. Can you tell me anything about it?

No, I just make them myself. Occasionally I'll have an ambitious friend that wants to make their own knife, but I don't host classes or anything like that. Thanks for watching! 🤙

Thank you!

Thank you! 🤙