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No you do not need the S3100 module. I would use the NEP2 module and connect the Ethernet cables to it. Then you will need to connect at least on of your units to it. The NEP2 will let you connect up to 5 devices, so you can add 3 more units. If you look at the video series on the Caymas you'll see there are 2 AT1 installed on the bow along with a NEP2 module and 3 HDS Live units. If you are going to run multiple AT2 units make sure that you connect their blue wires (SYNC) together to minimize noise.

Thank you. It is very tedious and time consuming to do it that way. But when you're done, the customer is happy and everything works really well, you take pride in your work. He picks the boat up tonight, so I'll see how he likes it in person. He did watch the video twice and shared it to bunch of his buddies.

You're welcome. I hope that you got something out of watching the video. And most companies could learn a bit about customer support, although I can list a couple that are heads above everyone in the industry. It can get expensive to pay a shop to do the work. And unless you know the shop, the quality and reliability may be lacking. I am trying to show how to do the work while explaining why things are done in a certain way.

Thanks for watching. And yes, there is a reason or multiple reasons why I take the time to do a few extra steps. I'm always trying to improve things and make it easier for customers.

Thank you. I was getting a bit tired at the end as evidenced by my fading voice. And then it took a lot of hours to put the final version together. And thanks for watching!!!!

Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching the video, I hope that it helped you.

Thank you. I hope that you it helped you. If you have any questions please post them here and I'll try to get back you.

Hi, if you have the Airmar connected on both channels of the S3100 module and there is no transducer attached directly to the Elite FS unit then you do not need to hook up the sync line. But since you have a 3-in-1 on the Elite FS then if it supported sync then yes you would connect it. But the only unit that currently supports the sync function is the Pro unit. You will see some noise on the Elite. I would disable the Sonar transducer on the Elite FS since the Airmar will give you the sonar. You may see some noise on the side scan but it will still be readable. (little blips but they are regular and you can train your eyes to ignore them.) Thanks for watching the video(s).

Yes you can. But I would connect the red and black wires directly to the battery for each unit. And I would also have a switch on the red wire to disconnect the units (HDS, AT module) from the battery when not in use. The AT module will have a slight current draw and may drain your battery down after time. And don't forget to put a fuse on the red wire. It's a 5A for the AT module and I think a 3A for the HDS 9. And thank you for watching the video. And thanks for the comment too!

Thanks for quick reply; I have amped 32 aph battery with clip terminals. Not sure how to connect 2 accessories. Can I run one wire to battery and split some how? Thanks for working with me.

You're welcome. I would probably run a red wire to the positive on the battery to a breaker (10 Amp should be sufficient), then from the OUT side of the breaker connect both devices (AT, HDS) with inline fuses. Then you can use the breaker also as a cutoff switch. Or put a switch in between the battery and breaker as the cutoff switch since you can extend the life of the breaker but not using it as a switch. The connect both grounds from the units to the battery. I assume that the battery using spade style slide on connectors. If so then I would get a 2 to 1 one style connector for the ground wires. In a larger installation I would use either a buss bar or a fuse block, but you only have 2 devices connected, so the simpler and more compact the better. I think that I showed a 2 to 1 style connect in the video on using a switch for controlling the AT module. And you'll want to seal everything up with marine grade heat shrink.

You need to connect the red and black to your power supply (battery). You should have the red wire on a switch to minimize battery drain when you are note using the AT module. And don't forget to put a fuse on the red wire. It's a 5A for the AT module.

I hope that this video helps you fix your problem. It is a common issue that I've seen and fortunately is straight forward to correct. Thanks for watching the video.

That's an interesting suggestion. Thanks for your suggestion. Most of my customers are bass boats, where most if not all fishing is done from the bow, and prefer to use one GPS antenna placed on the bow for both coordinates and for heading. This is critical for marking waypoints like beds. The Point-1 has a +/- 3 degrees of accuracy on positioning, placing the Point-1 at the stern of the boat creates too large of a position error. Also, the Point-1 is a 32 channel GPS receiver, this gives a positional accuracy of 3 m (9.8 ft.) while the built-in GPS on the Live unit is 16 channels with 20m RMS accuracy. So for this reason it is preferred to use the Point-1 for coordinates. I ran a similar configuration that you suggested except I used a GPS antenna (Point-1 without heading) on the stern for the console units and a Point-1 on the bow for the bow units. When I marked a waypoint on the console it was consistently 20 ft off on the waypoint. Since switching back to all units using one GPS source that is not an issue. And yes, I originally thought that it made more sense to use the antenna closest to the transducer but for me and the way that I utilized the waypoints, it was consistently incorrect. What I would like would be to "configure" the boat to designate both the antenna location(s) and transducer location(s). Then the coordinate would be offset based on the antenna and transducer used for waypoint creation.

Thanks that is a great idea for a video. I was helping the marina's customer with the same problem this week. I'll see what I can put together this weekend. While my boat, with my Pro units, is still at the dealer due to my sickness, I do have everything in my stock to show you how to fix the problem. (Well just a Live unit but it is the same as for a Pro). Thanks again for watching the video(s). Garry

Hi, I just put the sonar video up. Let me know how you like it and if it helps you with your sonar problems. BTW - you're not the only one with this type of problem. It seems that I help multiple customers weekly fix this type of problem.

And if so can u run both to the same fuse

Hi, thanks for watching the video. For a power cord for a unit like a HDS Live or Elite FS, you do not need to connect the Yellow wire. For those units and similar, that wire (yellow) is an output signal that is used to wake up another device such as an Active Target or S3100 module. So, there is no need to connect the yellow wire if you are not connecting it to a module. So, the RED goes to a fused power wire usually coming from a bus bar or using the existing for wiring if it is of sufficient size. The YELLOW wire is not connected. For modules, the RED and YELLOW can be tied to the same switch with fused power to coming it. Let me know if this makes sense to you. And thanks for watching the video(s).

I did the video on the St Lawrence River out of the Massena NY ramp. Is that what you are thinking? Oh, thanks for watching the video I hope that you liked it and also subscribed to my channel.

That's funny, I just reread your comment. And yes, the HD and 3-in-1 are very similar in image quality. I need to try that on different types of water where I may get different return signals.

I have wired from the chassis to a ground on the fuse block. I use that for freshwater boats. However, for saltwater boats I connect the wire to an anode block. This will help with galvanization on the transducer, especially in saltwater. And I have noticed that it does improve the sonar signal a little. So I always connect the case ground to minimize potential issues.

Thank you for subscribing. I did a follow-up video where I had both transducers on my boat which allowed me to easily check the settings and do a better side-by-side comparison. I also did a separate video for the down imaging as well. This is the updated HD vs 3-in-1 video: ruclips.net/video/8qJbeN3u9o8/видео.html Let me know if this helps. I have a couple more videos planned when I can get back boat up here from the dealer. (Still recovering and I'm not able to drive the 2000 miles RT to get it.)

My units are Pro units, so the HDS wakeup wire is connected to the BLUE wire on the S3100 power cord. And the wakeup (YELLOW) wire on the S3100 is connected through a SSR to the boat accessory switch. If you have a Carbon unit then you would connect the Carbon wakeup to the S3100 wakeup wire together. So when the Carbon is powered up the S3100 is activated. If all cases, you must connect the S3100 power leads (red, black) to your power source. Thanks for watching the video.

@@garrywoodruff960 I have one carbon and one pro linked together. which wake up wire should I link the S3100 to?

I would connect the yellow wire that is closest to the S3100. For example, if the Carbon is on the console and the S3100 is also, then use the Carbon wakeup. But if the Pro is on the console then use the Pro. If they are both on the console, then use the Carbon. And connect the wakeup on the Pro to the Blue wire on the S3100. Then on the Pro, enable sync under the System tab under the Settings.

You're welcome. I appreciate you watching the video. I am planning on at least one more video to dig further into the settings. Well, when I get fully recovered, which is getting closer. Make sure that you are subscribed so that you'll be notified. Thanks again.

You will need to connect the new HD transducer to the Pro unit. So I would put the Pro at the console and replace the older 2-in-1 with the 3-in-1 HD transducer. And connect the shoot thru hull to Channel 1 on the Pro. And then you can share the output to the Live unit via Ethernet. Since both units have 2 Ethernet ports, you can connect them as follows: bow unit (Live) to console unit (Pro), and AT1 to the bow unit (Live). Since you have the AT1 there is no advantage to putting the Pro on the bow. Although I have seen some issues with Live units running both Ethernet ports simultaneously. I would be tempted to run 2 Ethernet cables to the Pro - one from the Live and the other from AT module. Of course another option is to use a network hub but that adds cost an bit more complexity. Hopefully that makes sense, if not let me know what questions you have.

@garrywoodruff960 Thank you so much Gary !!

You're welcome.

@garrywoodruff960 HI Gary got my AI HD 2 in 1 installed and it's hooked to the outside port (black one) and thru hull is on blue connector. If I go into pages/sonar the internal sonar ch 1 box isn't checked internal sonar ch2 is and network sonar. Is that right ? Thanks Glenn

You need to have both CH1 and CH2 turned on, as well as Network Sonar. CH1 is the Blue connector and is your in-hull transducer. CH2 is the black connector and is your 2-in-1 HD. I assume that this is on your Pro unit.

That sounds like it would be a good job to work on and make some good videos as well. I am in southern New Hampshire, so that would be quite a drive for you. On the plus side, you could hit Champlain, Ontario, St Lawrence, and Erie on the way back. If you want to discuss this further contact on my Facebook page. Let me know. Garry.

Hi, yes, in method 2, the Active Target will be turned on when the unit is powered up. And yes, you need to connect both the red and black wires to a power source, preferably the same as the one powering the unit. And thank you!

I use ring terminals to attach to the power wires from the units and modules. If you look at some of the other videos you can see how I connect the fuse block.

@garrywoodruff960 OK I am using just one unit a fs 9 my question is dealing with how to connect the yellow wire? Does the yellow wire from the sonar unit connect strait to the AT 2 yellow wire? It looks like they are connected but not thru the fuse block is that correct?

Hi, yes you connect the yellow wires directly together. I usually use a 18-22 size butt connect (Anchor marine heat shrink type). Sorry about the delay, I am still recovering and have good days and bad days. Fortunately the bad days are aren't so bad. Hopefully I'll be able to start making videos soon.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks

I normally run 8 AWG for AT modules. What you need to do is to check for the voltage drop at end of the power wire to make sure that it has minimal drop. The 9s do not pull as much power (see the video on running the units in your house -- I have tables in the there that will give the current draw for the units). I don't know the size of your boat but I've run 8 AWG to the console and then 10 AWG to the bow on a 21 foot boat with 4 12s, no AT module. This worked well. However, the AT module gets better images with larger power wiring. And that power wiring gets run directly to the battery in the stern (with a breaker). I would also put a breaker the battery compartment between the battery and the power wires.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks for the reply, I had some 10 AWG and 12 AWG on hand that is why I originally was going to go that route. It is going on a 17.5 ft champion. The 10 awg from the battery to console is about 10ft long hooked straight to a switch. I then have the two 9s and the AT all connected together into the switch. The 12 awg to front 9 is also about 10 ft long. If you think going to 8 awg is better option I will do that. What is the need for a breaker at battery compartment if I have everything on a switch? And what amp/breaker would you recommend. Thanks

Due to the minimal voltage drop of the 8 AWG, I would use that for your power wiring. You'll get less than 0.1 voltage drop from your battery to the bow. Another advantage is that if you decide to go with larger units in the future then your boat wiring is ready for them. Sorry for the delay, still recovering.

Thanks for another way to control the module. I tried to limit the video to 5 ways for controlling the module and i used methods that I had installed in multiple client boat configurations. Thanks for watching the video.

I'm installing the active target 2 on my pontoon. It's paired to an elite 9. I have it working but if I change the screen to sonar, and then go back to active target it says no source. If I turn the elite off and power it back up the active target works.

I haven't done really deep with the transducer yet so I don't have firsthand knowledge. However, these are the specs for the transducer. Range -- Max 150 ft at 1075 kHz Max 300 ft at 455 kHz I checked on the Simrad site, the transducer is the same over there.

NMEA 2000 is a data bus. I use it for my engine data, Point-1, and other devices. Ethernet is for sharing maps, waypoint (full database and syncing), radar, sonar data, etc. Two different buses and both have their purposes. NMEA 2000 is simple to setup properly once you understand the network. That is, it is a powered balanced network. All devices are connected via a T to the network backbone.

The mount that you see is from Transducer Shield and Saver. Bass Fishin Electronics also has one as well. www.transducershieldandsaver.com/order/ www.bassfishinelectronics.com/ Both sites have very good mounts.

That is so true. I was able to sell my old Lives at a fair price which helped to offset the price. I have noticed that the Pros have a better built-in map, and they are a little faster. The HD transducer capability is nice to have. But the best feature for me is the ability to sync sonar and AT signals to eliminate transducer noise on the screen.

Yes, the 3100 module has the HD transducer connected. Actually, I am using the fish reveal (FR) version of the HD transducer and that requires the S3100 module to fully function.

Unfortunately, the sync capability is only with the HDS Pro, AT2, and S3100 as of now. I had 3-in-1 noise when I was running the AT1 module as well. Yes, stopping the 3-in-1 does eliminate the noise but I left mine running and I just filtered the noise in my head. Thanks for watching the video. Sorry about the delay in responding, I'm just starting to feel better.

Hi, thanks I will try that sequence when I get my boat back (after I can drive). I will let you know if that works for me or if I can find another sequence. And thanks for watching the videos. Sorry the reply took so long, I am just starting to feel better.

Yes it does. That's why you should have a cutoff switch on the battery or a least switch the module. Thanks for watching.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you!

Thanks you for watching the video. I tried to make this video as simple as possible and tried to cover the same things for each type of switching. That's a great suggestion for wiring diagrams. I post on for the SSD usage on my community page a while back. My electronics classes were before the big age of digital, so only 1,000 from them. 8^) For the yellow wire 18 AWG marine tinned stranded is the best to use. I have also use 16 AWG as well. There is very little current draw on the circuit. But you have to consider the wire flex if you go any smaller. I do try to add in tips in the videos. I've helped a lot of people over the years, and I want to share my knowledge. Thanks again for the comment and watching the video!

With the little water time that I have on the S3100/3-in-1 HD FR combination, so far I like that I have seen with the FR. I changed the fish reveal color to lime green so that the fish better pop out. I am planning on getting some serious seat time on the transducer when I pick up my boat in the spring. I can see where it would be extremely useful for locating schools of perch or crappie by idling around. I can also see where it will be useful for smallmouth on river humps and other structure or when they are chasing bait balls. Is it worth the $1400 (USD) for the setup, you'll have to decide. It was for me having the FR capability, HD features, and the sync function which allows me to run 2 side imaging and 2 in-hull sonar transducers without interference. Still that is a lot of money.

@garrywoodruff96 OK. I really appreciate and enjoy your videos! Thanks for taking the time to make and post them!

You're very welcome. I'd glad that you like and watch the videos!

As I mentioned the blue wire is to sync with other capable modules and HDS Pro units. The yellow wire circuit must be different in the Carbon and Live units. So the sync function won't work on them. So for now leave the blue wire unconnected but don't cut it off in case you upgrade to a Pro unit.

I'm glad that it helped. I've been running with the setup that I showed in the video for a long time now. I've even used it to debug a NMEA 2000 network on a boat that was parked in the garage. And thanks for watching the video.

I'm glad that the video helped you with the install. Let me know if you have any issues, I'll see if I can help.

HD def crisper but i honestly liked the 3 in 1 on other parts of your video. Thanks thats like the best video comparison you can find. Appreciate your time sir.

Thanks. I'm glad that you took the time to watch the video. And to me, it is a marginal improvement. That's why I tried to show the data and let viewers decide. I am going to run both. I do prefer the 800mHz on the 3in1 but the HD has better Downscan. I still have to see if I can fune tune the HD. So far, the sidescan fish reveal is useful.

It's the jackplate and I didn't have the motor trimmed up enough. Thanks for watching and noticing that.

@@garrywoodruff960 that's what I was thinking

I'm going to do some more testing with the dual transducers. I may have some other things to try to get better signals back.

Thank you! I'm a DIY type person. More fun to design and build than to buy and use. I had seen too many posts over the years from folks that tried a battery in the house and were having issues. I'm really hoping this will help everyone. And one thing is that you can bring this on the road with you and use your unit where you're staying. That should be good for those inclement weather tournaments.

Thanks Mark. It was really cold that day but I am happy with the results.

Thank you. It was very tedious. Not sure on the flex, but it is the one the boat manufacturer uses. The owner did the work on the trolling motor. I am glad that he had that lock down for it.

NO CRUISE SHIP!!! I had enough trouble moving around this boat. I will say that it is really a nice boat and well built. The towing services in FL use this model for their tow boats, so that says something about ride. Yes it was a good opportunity. I have to thank my buddy, Joe Fonzi, for getting my the work. And thanks.

Each one has its strong points. To me, I like the functionality of the Livescanner. And I continue to see improvements in its design. I haven't installed a Live Foot yet but have seen one on a customer's boat. Both products appear to be well built. The speed control is a must on either product. However, it is an add-on with the Live Foot. A pole brace should be added to either product also. It will stabilize the pole while stowed. From an operational perspective, I like the remote options that I get from Livescanner. The ability to automatically sweep the transducer has been very handy to locate fish quicker. On the Quad Scan model, I can do the sweep to the right or left. This feature really helps when drifting and using live sonar. On the Plus model, the bait lock feature is great to stay on target once you have found the fish. One improvement that is on the newer models of the Livescanner is a quick detach plug on the wiring. This makes it simpler and cleaner to install and also remove the unit if you need to. This plug was not on the Livescanner installed in that video and the upgrade but was on the later Livescanner videos. They also incorporated the wireless module into the control head, further simplifying the installation. Also, I have seen some new features coming out from Livescanner, and I am really looking forward to upgrading my unit. I hope that this helps. I wish that I had hands on the Live Foot to help you more.

I’ve recently purchased an LSS-1 module with side and down imaging, and also 2, 1st gen HDS-7s

Thank you. I glad that you found the video to be useful. No, the switch is only needed for the module. The units have easily accessible power buttons.

That was a good setup at the time. I ran that setup (with 10s) for a couple of years. The LSS-1 transducer is much more compact than the current Lowrance side imaging transducers. Just make sure that the units are updated with the latest update for them.

How would I go about updating the units?

get a micro SD card with carrier that it 32 GB or less. Go to the Lowrance website on the support page. Then select the updates page. Then in the dropdown box in the left, select your unit. Make sure that they are Gen 1. Follow the instructions to download the update to your SD card. Then put the SD card in a unit and power it on. If it needs the update then it will show a bar on the bottom of the screen. When it is done you can then remove the card and do the second unit. This is the latest update: HDS (Gen1) with GPS Patch

Thanks you very much! Yes you should. The setup that I showed in the video had an AT2 and a HDS Pro with the Ghost nosecone. When we did the training on the Pro units and AT2, the initial training only covered the dual AT2 syncing. But in later training, it was mentioned that you could do more with the sync feature. I also have it on my console where I has Pro with older 3-in-1 and a S3100 module with HD fish reveal. Having the sync enabled between the Pro and 3100 results in no noise between the two. It is a very powerful feature to get rid of noise caused by other transducers. In fact, I am still planning a full video about transducer noise issues. Hopefully my boat will be ready at the start of Feb and I can get on the water and shoot the video.

Thanks for all the information Garry@@garrywoodruff960

You're welcome.

Thank you for watching the video. I hope that it was helpful. Yes you should to prevent corrosion on the contacts.

@garrywoodruff960 thank you for answering so fast!👍 also, is the blue data cable necessary? I am about to order one, I already have the vvlink box, 1 yellow terminator, a 4 port jbox, a full nmea network, and a compatible motor and graph. Thank you again!

You're welcome. If you already have a Smartcraft network in your boat with an empty port on a junction box then you do not need the blue data cable. When I added VesselView to the Caymas, it had a proprietary harness, so I had to use the blue data cable coming from the data port on the motor. Since the motor was under warranty, I had the owner get his dealer to the run the cable.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you, I appreciate the info!

You're welcome.