Видео

Is it worth saving your metal shavings for scrap?

Yo, speaking of hardening, grinding ain`t the sole method of acquiring precision... CBN turning works brilliantly, but requires care, as it is as bad or worse than grinding on a lathe with a tpg... Bare ways are easily ruined with hardened chips and dust that forms during turning of ultra hard stuff... CBN will cut it in chips, but glass hard material will generate dust regardless... You also have hardturning carbide, but both of those are in my view pre-finishing tooling, as precision instruments are solely generated by lapping, if we really wanna be honest about things... And making a lap for a lathe is 10x easier than generating a straight lap... Just shield and cover those ways for the whole process, and not with junk, as hardturning chips will eat through any easily combustible or l.t. melting material... Making cylindrical instruments of precision in the shop the proper way is not outside the realms of possibility for almost anyone with a lathe... I would wager that it is easier to make cyl. precision stuff with a hobby shop than it is to make flat precision instruments, or rather, it takes much less effort to do so... From lap making to the speed and ease of the whole process... Milling a piece flat and square is harder than turning a piece cyl, hardening affects flat and rectangular pieces worse than it does the cyl. ones, and lapping of flat surfaces is more intense in every way than it is to slide a lap up and down a spinning shaft evenly and checking every however often your skill demands you to... Also, for those with interests in casting, i would perhaps consider using white bronze for this project... Cast a majestic handle with a few pseudo-diameters, give `er the centers, turn the actual diameters and lap it in... By white bronze i am referring to Cu-Al bronze alloy with high aluminium content, which results in a glass hard and brittle as fuck material, but one remarkably good for both wear and tear resistance, corrosion near-immunity, relative ``slipperiness`` which makes it ideal for tooling like this... Being glass hard also makes it immune to abrasive charging when lapped with a soft laps... Just don`t drop it on the floor, but then, the same goes for steel instruments... It also won`t have the potential to wring with a fine finished bore that you are checking, but will instead have a natural lubricity to it due to aforementioned material properties... And it is easy to make... Just good copper pipe from scrapyard and some good purity alu(not hard to source either)... Best regards! Steuss

A dandy indeed! 👍🏻nice looking knurling ya got there buddy.. 😮

Vise.... not vice. Catholics have vices, machinists have vises.

Very good for new and older machinists. Thanks again for your time enjoyed it

Good video. Very instructive.

I don't understand why a lot of people don't mess with hardened material. you do NOT need grinding capabilities to work with heat treated materials! you can use normal carbide tooling, you just need to be careful what your playing with and what the hardness is, a lot of insert tooling will tell you what surface footage and chipload it works with for hardened material. hardened stuff isn't that scary, just gotta know what your doing. unless it's case hardened or an exotic heat treated material, but if your playing with them your using cbn and diamond tooling anyway. TLDR if used correctly, carbide tooling will be more than good enough for hardened material. hss can also be used but I wouldn't recommend it.

Great video as always!

Nice thorough review. Very well done..

Great project for the new machinist to practice hitting some dimensions, reading a micrometer, etc. Good tip on using the compound at 6 degrees, too.

I would have liked to see the tool in use early on in the video. Really early. I didn't, so I stopped watching.

👍👍😎👍👍

Nice project, thx for the vid.

Another great video with easy, for us novice hobbyists, to understand explanations. Sometime when you are trying to come up with something for us viewers, would you consider doing a video on how to get correct chip development on the lathe. All the channels talk about chips, ie. good and bad, but how do you fix bad chips? Not the kind you eat.🥚

Cool project to make.. thank you for sharing

1.25x

In all videos about this machine I have never seen a demo of what the rear knob does and how to do it. Can you show?

Nice editing and narration. Beautiful machine work.

I think you mean "ANNULAR" cutters.

Hello, first of all I love your way of being, of thinking and your humor.. Bravo... Regarding the video, it is very explanatory, clear, the words are always explicit and we see your interest in what you are doing. Just like you, I "have fun" with life, with my work, with what I do... We are in a big game with the same goal for everyone one day... we might as well take advantage of this time to learn skills , share them, distill them here and there... Good luck to you, continue and persevere with your beautiful vision of things, personally I find it very pleasant to watch and listen to, Best regards, Lionel.

DO NOT buy the cheapest Vevor mag drill. I did and it was a mistake. Wet noodle.

Turn you speed down a bit 425/450 rpm would be about right it will bring your tip heat down and the bits last longer too.

The run out is unacceptable. Send it.

This drill is not very good. It doesn’t have the proper depth adjustment

An-new-lar cutter

I thought that the motor/head could be positioned higher up on the slde to give you more Z height. Is that not possible on the version that they sent you?

Nice!

First thing I thought when you started screwing the chuck onto the adapter was "No register? That's gonna run out like crazy."

What model out there has a coolant system that works for the drill bits?

An IT guy doesn't know how to google "annular pronunciation" LOL. an-yuh-lr. Whoda thunk it. Probably the 3rd video I've seen on these Mag Drills, and they have all had bad runout with the chuck.

Thanks for the video! I like mag drills had one at shop before I retired. I have a idea for you if you are speaking terms with local machine shops let them know about you and what you can do maybe they will send you work they aren't interested in or to small to deal with shops around my area do for me , and sometimes more than I can do Goodluck see you in next video

Impressive machine; weird that you can only drill the surface it's standing on because nothing will fit underneath the drill... 0:37 "My wife is currently standing on a ladder" - shucks, you're saying she's not 11 feet tall!!? Props to her for the camera work.

digging these sunday funday videos!

Are you sure the spindle doesn’t go up? If not why is there so much stick out? Thanks for the video.

I absolutely love your pegboard background.

One of the first projects I ever did with my mini lathe since the plastic handles came pre-broken for my convenience or something! Certainly feels like a more luxury machine with shop made handles. Keep up the great work and thanks for taking the time to upload videos. Regards Doc from Australia.

Drill Dr. for the win and 60% the price

could of bought your self a hydrolic hole punch from vevor

You make it look so simple, man. Thank you.

My. Machine needs this upgrade. Loved the clarity of the video and accompanying voiceover!

I’ve missed the machining videos

17:30 If you cut off a wrench to that length, and just left it on, that would be exactly the same, and the benefit of removing it ... if it got in the way of recording or any other reason. :)

I bought one of the different versions of this machine but for all intents and purposes it’s exactly the same. I noticed after sharpening a number of different sized bits the grit of the wheel became smoother and gave a more consistent finish which was a plus. It takes less than a minute to sharpen any bit up to 1/2” and as you mentioned because it’s metric I bought an extra set of ER20 collets in imperial size for the bits that are at just the outside range. Luckily the machine is pretty easy to figure out after using it and applying logic to the process because if I had to rely solely on the instructions I would have returned it because I don’t think I could have figured it out from scratch. They really need to hire someone who’s fluent in Chinese and English to rewrite the manual. There’s also no mention whatsoever about how to use or adjust the relief when using that portion of the machine. I do like that it’s extremely quiet and does its job well regardless of cost. This thing is a bargain.

Are you going to make another follower to use with tapa that are not center drilled? Like the majority of small taps!

I like the tools you have made, but I always wonder why you let finished parts, some in brass, some knurled, some just with a nice finish just bang and drop into the chip tray when parting them off.

I am a sr it engineer and lost mine 3 months ago. I totally get it! File for unemployment asap! Then get the $ sent in cash or paypal style transfers only. This will keep you from interfering with the unemployment benefits. Take any machining work you can get. You got this!

Good luck and best wishes. The only thing I'd like to add is from my personal experience. When making a part, such as this cross slide screw, don't make just one. When you have all your tools out and setups, go ahead and make an extra - throw it up on eBay. If it's a common machine, like with your customer, there is certainly someone else out there looking for that same part. The cost of the material is minimal and machine time isn't that much more when doing a second or third...

So, 17:05 Did NASA force you to sign an NDA? Blink twice if Yes. Blink thrice if they're in the room with you right now. 👀

So you want my two cents worth, the abridged version. So really nothing wrong with the concept but don’t expect to make a profit or a living from a small hobby shop just because you have tools and are a good craftsman. The guy who taught me the trade had a 13” Jet, C3 mill and a lot of other tools and etc. He built machines mostly and was the only shop for 25 miles in any direction but barely paid his bills. If you want to take on work for beer or tooling money go for it. If you want to make a living at at it is much much harder and there is a lot more that goes into the equation than it looks like on the surface. One of the most important is while the best machinist I have ever known did it as a hobby none of the home hobbyists can turn out a part fast enough to keep a customer happy. Most of them spend too mch time fiddling around unnecessary setups and the machines are way too light to compete (I normally rough at .250-.3) Most of the shops I have worked in were not well equipped, had worn out machines and lousy tooling. Attracting enough work to keep a steady income is much harder than it sounds. You need much bigger equipment, I wouldn’t try and run a shop with less than a 16x60 lathe and a 10x50 mill. You need to be able to weld as well. A 6000# forklift is a must. Not to say a shop can’t find a niche but that takes time and special circumstances (if you ever find them) Gunsmithing is probably your best bet if you want to deal with that can of worms. Long story short. I have been a machinist and owned machine tools since jr high (31 years) and while I have built a few parts for lawn mowers we gave up on trying to run a shop and got 9-5 jobs. I don’t regret it.

I made a special connector for a hobby brewer that eliminated the need for 3 stock adapters. The part he needed was basically a stainless steel adapter with different thread than any commercially available adapter. Previously he had to combine 3 different commercially available adapters which ended up being about 3 inches long, I made a 1 inch part that had the fist and last threads and a hex body. Very small job but my first using Stainless steel which was challenging. I was not trying to make money since I an still a newbie but He paid for the job and even bought me extra materials.