Your channel feels a lot like Inheritance Machining, in that your video quality is superb and you haven't been doing this all that long. I hope that your channel blows up in the same way, it would be well deserved!
Thank you very much! That is quite a compliment. I don't feel that I'm anywhere near as good as inheritance, but it sure does make me feel good to hear that! I truly appreciate your compliment and am grateful for the support. THANK YOU!
I agree with moth of you…. But Brandon is a psychopath….. he is a glutton for punishment but he’s damn good. Have you seen his last cube video!? Gee whiz…. But your content is higher quality as well. I appreciate your channel as well 😎👍 thanks for your content
Hi. Watched this video GREAT IDEA. Went to the shed and made 24 of these. Once again great idea much more positive and coming lose. Always interested in machining as my Father was in the aircraft industry. But I went in another industry. Now retired I set up my own machine shop in the shed Love your sense of humour Take care NSW. AUSTRALIA 👍👍👍
I just started watching your videos last week or so and so far I must say I really like them. I agree that your channels gives me inheritance machining vibes and it isn’t a bad thing. As a fellow machinist myself I really enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
Thank you so much! I really do appreciate the kind words and support. I'll keep working on them and trying to to get better every day! Thank you for watching, and see you on the next one!
Really like your style 👍🏼. What I done: taken a normal wrench (on my lathe 17mm), cut off the open end and use just the ring-handle. Then a little comment when you pointed out that the jam nut can move the other when tightening: Now there is ~90° where the screw will be behind the column. No big problem, just a "thing" 🤭😂.
lol yeah, definitely some "bugs" to work out in this design. This will almost certainly be a "version 1.0" with a V2.0 to come in the future. :) Thank you for watching!
Looks clean and tidy. There is a possibility the timing for height will orient the lock screw into your post. May not matter if next higher/lower is good enough.
Yeah that's a good catch, it didn't occur to me until I started to use it. But I'll use these 3 for a while and see how I like it. And thank you, and also thank you very much for watching!
Hi you could machine a slit and lock screw into the other side but with the head reversed, that way you always have 1 head facing out. It may look 'Funky' but should work :). Love your videos keep them coming. PEACE.@@hersch_tool
This is great, and well done. This video is a good teaching tool, which introduced me to several ideas and a few techniques that I can use in my work - hobby, really. But since I use my adjustable wrench on several nuts or bolts of different sizes on my lathe, I think I'll be sticking to that for a while. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you very much! I am no master machinist or anything, but I am incredibly grateful that I was able to share something that may be useful for you! I really can't express how much I appreciate your feedback. You are very welcome, and thank YOU very much for watching!
Thank you! That's a very kind compliment. I'm just sharing the little bit of knowledge that I have, and trying to learn something new every day. And thank you very much for watching!
I just found your channel and this is the first video I've seen. You mentioned the irony of switching from a wrench to an Allen Key. I also see a problem where the locking screw would be stopped with the key slot facing your tool holder. I'm not sure if you measured out the nut slot to account for thread position in that instance, but I could see that as being your only problem. Please keep your vides coming. I've subscribed and look forward to seeing your channel grow.
Yeah that's definitely a design flaw. I'll probably do a V2.0 at some point in the future to address that and any other issues I find along the way. Thanks very much for the sub btw, I'll keep working hard on the channel and hope to see you in the next one! Thanks!
Great idea, thanks. Those double nutted adjusters drive me nuts. They are fiddly to get them right, and never seem to stay that way. Another tip is to check that those threaded rods for the adjuster are tight in the tool holder. I've several times had a loose one which of course throws off your adjustment. I now Loctite the studs and torque them down good before setting the height.
Thanks very much. The quick lock handle has been a great little upgrade, really glad I did it. This particular project is ok, but I still feel like there is a better version of this to try at some point in the future. Thanks very much for watching!
Thanks so much for making this video. I had made lock nuts with this design a couple of months ago after some inspiration from inheritance machining, from aluminium. My tool holders have a M12x1 thread, making hight adjustment crazy simple. I simply measure the tool tip height over the cross slide (95.65mm in my case) with standard calipers, and I can easily adjust the height by 1/20th of a turn (0.05mm). others on FB asked for more instructions/video, but I never got around to it. nice job choosing brass 🙂
Thanks very much, my design definitely isn't perfect as has been mentioned in the comments but I think it's a pretty good start and was a fun project. And you're very welcome for the video, thank YOU very much for watching! It's the great support and awesome folks here in the comments that make it all so worthwhile and rewarding for me, so thank you!
@@hersch_tool the design works so much better than the 2 locknuts... I hade made a small fleet of 15-ish of those collar split nuts from alu months ago, and they just work perfectly...
@@joergengeerds360 Yeah, the jam nut system just isn't great. I guess I get why they do it, it's cheap and easy to manufacture. but they sure can be a PITA. 🤣
Hello, first of all I love your way of being, of thinking and your humor.. Bravo... Regarding the video, it is very explanatory, clear, the words are always explicit and we see your interest in what you are doing. Just like you, I "have fun" with life, with my work, with what I do... We are in a big game with the same goal for everyone one day... we might as well take advantage of this time to learn skills , share them, distill them here and there... Good luck to you, continue and persevere with your beautiful vision of things, personally I find it very pleasant to watch and listen to, Best regards, Lionel.
Hi Lionel, thank you so much for the kind words and positive feedback. I do love what I'm doing, and the joy and satisfaction that it's brought me is the whole reason I wanted to share it with others. So I am really glad to hear that you're enjoying it as well. I work very, very hard at these videos, and comments like yours are what make it worth every second of it. So, thank you again for your comment, thank you for taking the time to watch, and I hope to see you around. Sincerely, HERSCH.
Yeah that's potential issue. Might end up making a V2.0 after I use these for a while and that'll be one of the things that get fixed. Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
I guess I'm from another civilization. I do my chamfers with a file. Anyway. Good job. And I like your knurling tool. I need to make one because I hate the other type. I mean type that you put pressure on the X axis.
How about modifying a double-ended set screw and attaching a head on one side (press-fit, pin, loctite, etc.)? That way you can tighten it from either side using the same allen key.
You could make a small allen key holder that attaches to the toolpost. Like 3d print it or machine it, maybe held on with magnets. Doesnt need to be a huge key just a small key, then its always there.
Haha, thanks! It's definitely not a perfect solution but it's a good first try I guess. I'll probably have a "V2.0" at some point in the future. Would really like to be able to do it all by hand without any other tools needed. Thanks for watching!
Now all you gotta do is make a double ended Allen WRENCH to use on these and the tool clamping bolts! I always figured doing something like this would also solve the height registration losses tightening the lock nut
is there a solution for the situation where the bolt head is on the backside, colliding with the toolpost? is it stable enough to remove the tool holder, then lock it via the clamp? I love this idea, and am like 85% I want to add this to my lathe as well. Great project!
Very nice video. I'm thinking I need to spend a few hours in the shop now. It is evident you've thought about the content to be able to explain what you're doing without all the 'ums' that plague so many other channels.
Thank you very much! Yes I put a great deal of effort into the vids but it's worth every second for the awesome support and feedback that I get. The "community" of great folks that is springing up around the channel has been humbling, inspiring, and motivating. Thank you so much for watching!
I like the idea. I'm wondering if there is a solution for when the ideal tool height means the new nut/knob sits so access to the allen portion of the fastener is blocked by the tool post. It seems you might be losing some fine adjustability with this. Am I thinking about this correctly?
Yeah that could definitely be an issue. I am going to use these 3 for a while I think and see how it goes. But if it turns out to be a problem then might need to make some modifications. But it's all in fun, learning, and getting better. :)
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.@@hersch_tool
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.@@hersch_tool
Good idea but i think you could bet better all round access to the locking screw if you slit the brass thumbwheel horizontally rather than vertically. The horizontal slit would want to be about 1/4 way down from the top so the force needed to pinch the nut threads together isn't too high. Also consider trying some similar knurled thumb wheels with a homemade 'nyloc' insert and then it is just the friction of the 'nyloc' needed to keep them in the desired height setting. This is not intended to be any negative criticism of your efforts,just a bit of bouncing a few other ideas around. I do agree the standard thumb wheel and locknut system is a PITA to deal with.
Thanks very much, those are both really good ideas. I have been kicking around ideas in my head to improve the design as this first attempt is "ok" but definitely isn't great. The "nyloc" or friction type solution seems interesting because ultimately I am always looking for ways to eliminate all of the extra tools that I'm constantly reaching for to help tighten and loosen things. I am adding both of these ideas to the list lol. There will be a V2.0 at some point when I find that "perfect" solution. Thanks again, and thank you for watching!
One variation you might consider doing is not thread the back end, but instead put in a camlock nut on the back, (with a milled surface to cam off of) and effectively eliminate the need for even the allen key once t he cam-lock-nut is assembled and adjusted so the camlock latch works as expected.
Great idea and execution but what do you do if the height puts the socket head behind the or towards the spindle? I'm curious if the band could be a slip ring around the clamping surface so you could keep the socket head and an easily accessible angle.
Thanks very much. It's not perfect, there are definitely better solutions. this comment has been made about a bazillion times lol, you can lift the holder up and out of the way in that case, it works but again it's not perfect. Thanks very much for watching btw.
Those lock nuts/knurled nuts drive me insane. They either work loose or jam and then wind out the stud. I'd like to replicate what you've done but I'll probably use steel and parkerise them. (Brass ain't cheap)😢 Cheers, Preso
Yep, exactly! And steel might even be a better choice. I think I'll likely make some revisions to the idea over time, and the next version I would also like to try a nice stainless maybe. I love your channel btw, been following on my personal account for quite a while. Thank you so much for watching btw!
Nice job, nice video... great quality. I only see one problem with your new 'system'. how do you tighten the cinch bolt when it faces outward from the headstock... ie faces the toolpost bolt?
Thanks very much! And yeah we've been discussing that in the comments, can always lift it up or even use a washer, but it might need a version 2.0 in the future! Thank you for watching btw!
Not really necessary because there isn't any pressure being applied when it's being adjusted. A thrust washer is good in circumstances where friction is acting against rotation, which isn't really happening here. Good question though, always looking to improve and that's what it takes! Thanks very much for watching btw!
I think you can tighten the brass nut just enough so it will not come loose but can still be turned by hand. Meaning hex wrench will not be needed after initial setup.
Yeah you can definitely find that "sweet spot" for a friction fit that will allow you to adjust it without the Allen wrench but is tight enough that it shouldn't move around on you. Thanks very much for watching!
At certain height settings it seems access to the locking screw will be blocked by other parts of your setup. Is this a problem? You could probably use thin washer used as a spacer when that happens, with the right thickness of washer, it would move the screw to the front. Is there a simpler fix if the access to the locking screw is blocked?
Good question, check the comments it's been brought up a couple times. It can be fixed with a washer, but likely there will be a version 2.0 of this in the future. Gonna use them for a while, and then make tweaks/changes based on experience using them. Thank you for watching!
Yeah that would be ideal. I was working with the cap screws that I had in my box, but I'm getting great ideas in the comments so maybe a version 2.0 in the future. Thank you very much, and thank you for watching!
I think it's a good idea and it will work very well. And if the bolt ends up in front of the centre bolt of the toolpost, all you have to do is lift the toolholder a bit to be able to reach the bolt. So, good one.
What if the screw alignment is straight back into the tool post handles, I don't see how you'll get any tool in there to tighten the locking screw. Apart from that it's a nice idea. Just wondering if you could turn it into a downward locking screw within some kind of cam system?
Yeah that's a valid question. Check the comments, we've been discussing it lol. You could always just lift the tool post off to tighten it, or add a washer, etc. But I'll use these for a while and might revisit with a V2.0 in the future to address any issues and make improvements. But it's not a show stopping issue either way at least for now. A cam lock with a thumb actuated mechanism might be a really cool idea too. Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
Yeah that's a good idea too. You can accomplish something like that with a design like this, just tighten the lock screw enough to cause drag but not enough to lock. I'd make them from steel maybe for that though. Just because the brass is likely to wear quickly against the steel post with all that friction.
I like it except if the new lock screw is facing the main assy, then it's gunna be tight to get an allen wrench in place. How about knurled thumb screws instead ? Next should be mushroom type caps to top the stud for a place to grab the holder when removing it from the post.
Yeah that could definitely be an issue. I think this will likely be "mark 1" of this design lol. Thumb screws are a solid idea, and I love the mushroom post idea as well, that would definitely be a worthwhile upgrade. Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
How about countersinking the other side too? That way, if your adjustment positions the nut in such a way that you can’t get your allen wrench in the set screw, you could just donit from the opposite side?
You mean split the nut in half and use 2 screws instead of one? Yeah that could probably work. I might do some revisions to the design in the future if it turns out to be an issue so I'll be mining all the comments for ideas lol. Thank you, and thank you for watching!
@@jonirish323 The counter sunk side is clearance drilled for bolt, not threaded. That's what applies the clamping pressure as the bolt is tightened. If both sides were threaded, then the bolt would just bottom out and wouldn't apply a clamping force.
I'm confused. If both sides of the slit are threaded, how does tightening the screw actually bring them together? Did you drill out the threads on the counterbore side at some point? Also, what is your plan if you spin the nut and the screw head is facing your quick change post? You won't be able to get a hex key in there.
@@hersch_tool That makes sense, thanks. I must have missed the part where you drilled through the counterbored section with a larger drill bit. The shot at 11:30 when you are holding them makes it look like both halves are threaded.
Just wondering if the threads for the SHCS are in both sides of the split, how you can tighten it. I would have thought it would work better with no threads on the head side, but maybe I’m missing something.
You can't tighten it if both sides are threaded. As I explained in the vid, one side (the head side) is drilled for clearance around the bolt. Thanks for watching!
I found your channel a few days back and watched the top lever being made. I liked your style of video making. but felt that I wanted to see another video with perhaps something original. Well, this was the one. I nice idea that is original, or original enough, that is combined with nicely paced and nicely narrated video. I'm sold and subscribed and liked. And I'll be having a go at my own brass set screw nuts like yours. But since I've got a bucket load of 1" good quality aluminum round bar I suspect that'll be my material of choice. My lathe has two T handle hex key wrenches that I use for my tool holders. I made them up with a cross bar and a knurled "spinner" stub to work with my tool holders. I use a mix of old and new that need a 3/16 and 4mm. Thus the two sizes. I find it's a lot easier to keep the shop made T handle hex key tools than the simple L keys. Those little guys seem to grow legs and hide....
Thank you very much! I'm glad that I was able to earn the sub, I really do appreciate it, thank you! And the multi size t handle sounds like a great idea!
you can just lift it up and out of the way in that case. but i think there is still a better design than this one for that reason which is why i haven't made more of these. thanks for watching
Good question, check the comments, we've been discussing this a lot. Could just lift it up, or use a washer. But might make a V2.0 in the future if it ends up being an issue. Thanks very much for watching btw! 🙂
So, you've eliminated the need for an adjustable wrench to tighten your locking nut. And replaced it with a hex wrench to tighten your locking nut. Nice work.
The one thing I can't stand is good looking parts that are not deburred or have sharp edges. If you hand me a part that has this in my mind you failed. I was taught by old German tool and mold and die makers. That is a Total no no in their shop lol.
Doesn't this limit your height adjustment by like 1/3 of a turn every rotation? Like you can't actually set the height to any position that faces the screw head towards the body of the tool? Or is height not that critical of a measurement in general?
Lol, read through the other comments, this has been asked, a lot... 😅 You can just lift of the tool holder to tighten it if that's the case, or can slide a washer underneath to change the position of screw head. Thanks very much for watching btw!
A lock nut with a nylon insert would work. There are no forces that would make it turn and if it loosens from repeated adjustment you can buy them by the hundreds for pennies.
Yeah that would work as well, but a nyloc nut is difficult to turn, usually requires a wrench, just isn't the solution I'm looking for personally. But I think would be a fine solution. I've actually had nyloc nuts on some of them in the past and ended up ripping them off in a fit of frustration while attempting to adjust tool height and dealing with the lock nut fighting me at every turn... pun intended? lol. Good idea though. :)
It looks nice but the old system is way more practical. Is much easier to trow a wrench on the top nut and turn it than to fiddle around to get the allan wrench in place. Also, I would like to see how you use it if the screw lands in the other side.
Nicely made👍, but i see there a problem.... how you lock the screw, when the hex is ecactly at your tool post? Okay you can take the tool holder out of the toolpost, but unlock the handle, get it out, lock the screw, get it in, lock the handle .......oh and now you realise the tool is too low/high.......the same procedure backwards and perhaps this more than one time......till it fits perfect..... That would bother me, after a short time of usage. 🤔
Don't beat yourself up too much about reinventing the wheel. As long as there are no sharp corners, it is probably still a wheel like object. Good video.
That's definitely not a bad idea either. I've gotten some good ideas in the comments on this one so might be a "version 2.0" in the future. Thank you very much, and thank you for watching!
@@joergengeerds360 Yep, exactly. It's a fair question though, and I think I'll use these 3 for a while and then maybe work on a version 2.0 to address any outstanding issues like that one that come up along the way.
The handsome nuts are nice but the wrench is just extra work. Tighten the screws just enough for a light friction drag and leave the wrench on your bench. Adjust once and you’re done.
You can just lift the tool holder and tighten it down if it's facing the post. But for that reason and some others this isn't the end all be all solution. I still think it's better than the jam nuts, which constantly get stuck together on me, but far from perfect.
Thanks! It's a good start anyway I think. Could definitely use some improvements, but that's what trying and learning is all about! Thanks very much for watching!
Nice project, only seen one thing, if your adjustments have the screw towards the back, you may not have room to get your allen "wrench" to the screw, so yes you traded on wrench for a different one 😂 but still nice project and looks nice too
Lol yeah, sweet sweet irony... 🤣 And yep, it definitely has some "bugs" that need to be worked out. This will likely be a "V1.0", I'll use these ones for a bit and see what I think and then make some tweaks/changes for V2.0 in the future. Thank you very much btw, and thank you for watching!
Piece of advice. I watch hobbist and people who do this for a living. I am very proud of the work I make. So i dont linke dings in my work. Get a long ejector pin of several diameters. Cut the head off. (They are hardend. This may be an issue) Stick them in the tailstock/chuck. Parts catcher! I hate watching parts fling to the bottom of the lathe. One layer of electrical tape will protect both surfaces. Not that it has much force when the cut off tool shoots it off. As for the wrench vs allen key... a small piece of magentic tape and 2 allen keys are easier to maintain and takes up less space than a wrench that is always in the way but no where to be found when i need it. 🤷♂️
Very, VERY carefully... Lol. It's a design flaw. Lots of comments about it. Can pull up the tool holder, use a washer to re-clock the screw, etc. But I'll probably do a 2nd version in the future to address that and any other issues I find along the way. Thanks for watching!
Your channel feels a lot like Inheritance Machining, in that your video quality is superb and you haven't been doing this all that long. I hope that your channel blows up in the same way, it would be well deserved!
Thank you very much! That is quite a compliment. I don't feel that I'm anywhere near as good as inheritance, but it sure does make me feel good to hear that! I truly appreciate your compliment and am grateful for the support. THANK YOU!
@@hersch_tool u
I agree with moth of you…. But Brandon is a psychopath….. he is a glutton for punishment but he’s damn good. Have you seen his last cube video!? Gee whiz….
But your content is higher quality as well. I appreciate your channel as well 😎👍 thanks for your content
Nicely Done! Thanks for posting!
@@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes thanks very much for watching!
Hi.
Watched this video GREAT IDEA.
Went to the shed and made 24 of these.
Once again great idea much more positive and coming lose.
Always interested in machining as my Father was in the aircraft industry.
But I went in another industry. Now retired I set up my own machine shop in the shed
Love your sense of humour
Take care
NSW. AUSTRALIA
👍👍👍
thanks very much. i really appreciate you watching, and im glad they worked out for you. and thank you for the positive feedback!
I just started watching your videos last week or so and so far I must say I really like them. I agree that your channels gives me inheritance machining vibes and it isn’t a bad thing. As a fellow machinist myself I really enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
Thank you so much! I really do appreciate the kind words and support. I'll keep working on them and trying to to get better every day! Thank you for watching, and see you on the next one!
Really like your style 👍🏼. What I done: taken a normal wrench (on my lathe 17mm), cut off the open end and use just the ring-handle.
Then a little comment when you pointed out that the jam nut can move the other when tightening: Now there is ~90° where the screw will be behind the column. No big problem, just a "thing" 🤭😂.
lol yeah, definitely some "bugs" to work out in this design. This will almost certainly be a "version 1.0" with a V2.0 to come in the future. :) Thank you for watching!
Looks clean and tidy. There is a possibility the timing for height will orient the lock screw into your post. May not matter if next higher/lower is good enough.
Yeah that's a good catch, it didn't occur to me until I started to use it. But I'll use these 3 for a while and see how I like it. And thank you, and also thank you very much for watching!
Hi you could machine a slit and lock screw into the other side but with the head reversed, that way you always have 1 head facing out. It may look 'Funky' but should work :). Love your videos keep them coming. PEACE.@@hersch_tool
@@Geordiehux Yeah that's not a bad idea at all. And thank you very much, I'll keep working on them. :) And thank you for watching!
Just lift it up/off and tighten the lock screw
Wouldn't it fall in half with two slits?@@Geordiehux
very good idea!!! this problem has showed itself a few times for me. thanks for the video
Thank you very much! You're very welcome btw, and thank YOU for watching!
This is great, and well done. This video is a good teaching tool, which introduced me to several ideas and a few techniques that I can use in my work - hobby, really. But since I use my adjustable wrench on several nuts or bolts of different sizes on my lathe, I think I'll be sticking to that for a while.
Thank you for posting this.
Thank you very much! I am no master machinist or anything, but I am incredibly grateful that I was able to share something that may be useful for you! I really can't express how much I appreciate your feedback. You are very welcome, and thank YOU very much for watching!
Your videos are very informative. I look forward to seeing what you have planned next.
Thank you! That's a very kind compliment. I'm just sharing the little bit of knowledge that I have, and trying to learn something new every day. And thank you very much for watching!
looks like a good idea. I would have to make 35. so I will just sit back and enjoy. Thanks for the content. Very nice quality.
Haha yeah I have the same problem, not that many but still have to make a lot for all my holders. Thank you by the way, and thank you for watching!
I just found your channel and this is the first video I've seen. You mentioned the irony of switching from a wrench to an Allen Key. I also see a problem where the locking screw would be stopped with the key slot facing your tool holder. I'm not sure if you measured out the nut slot to account for thread position in that instance, but I could see that as being your only problem. Please keep your vides coming. I've subscribed and look forward to seeing your channel grow.
Yeah that's definitely a design flaw. I'll probably do a V2.0 at some point in the future to address that and any other issues I find along the way. Thanks very much for the sub btw, I'll keep working hard on the channel and hope to see you in the next one! Thanks!
Great idea, thanks. Those double nutted adjusters drive me nuts. They are fiddly to get them right, and never seem to stay that way. Another tip is to check that those threaded rods for the adjuster are tight in the tool holder. I've several times had a loose one which of course throws off your adjustment. I now Loctite the studs and torque them down good before setting the height.
@@Changtent thanks very much, and thanks for watching!
That's a great idea, I've had the same problem.
They look very nice, even if you do say so yourself.
I agree, future project.....Tony
Haha, I don't mind tooting my own horn sometimes I guess lol. Thanks very much btw, and thank you for watching!
What a great fix for a specific personal issue. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Smart idea. Good to see you again!
Thanks very much! Good to see you in the comments!
Very nice video. Well done. Will watch more from you.
Thanks very much! I appreciate the support! 👍
I really like the quick lock for your tool post also . I'm using a big crescent wrench
Thanks very much. The quick lock handle has been a great little upgrade, really glad I did it. This particular project is ok, but I still feel like there is a better version of this to try at some point in the future. Thanks very much for watching!
Thanks so much for making this video. I had made lock nuts with this design a couple of months ago after some inspiration from inheritance machining, from aluminium. My tool holders have a M12x1 thread, making hight adjustment crazy simple. I simply measure the tool tip height over the cross slide (95.65mm in my case) with standard calipers, and I can easily adjust the height by 1/20th of a turn (0.05mm). others on FB asked for more instructions/video, but I never got around to it. nice job choosing brass 🙂
Thanks very much, my design definitely isn't perfect as has been mentioned in the comments but I think it's a pretty good start and was a fun project. And you're very welcome for the video, thank YOU very much for watching! It's the great support and awesome folks here in the comments that make it all so worthwhile and rewarding for me, so thank you!
@@hersch_tool the design works so much better than the 2 locknuts... I hade made a small fleet of 15-ish of those collar split nuts from alu months ago, and they just work perfectly...
@@joergengeerds360 Yeah, the jam nut system just isn't great. I guess I get why they do it, it's cheap and easy to manufacture. but they sure can be a PITA. 🤣
I love this! Weekend project for me! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks very much for watching :)
Hello, first of all I love your way of being, of thinking and your humor.. Bravo...
Regarding the video, it is very explanatory, clear, the words are always explicit and we see your interest in what you are doing.
Just like you, I "have fun" with life, with my work, with what I do... We are in a big game with the same goal for everyone one day... we might as well take advantage of this time to learn skills , share them, distill them here and there...
Good luck to you, continue and persevere with your beautiful vision of things, personally I find it very pleasant to watch and listen to,
Best regards, Lionel.
Hi Lionel, thank you so much for the kind words and positive feedback. I do love what I'm doing, and the joy and satisfaction that it's brought me is the whole reason I wanted to share it with others. So I am really glad to hear that you're enjoying it as well. I work very, very hard at these videos, and comments like yours are what make it worth every second of it. So, thank you again for your comment, thank you for taking the time to watch, and I hope to see you around. Sincerely, HERSCH.
@@hersch_tool The pleasure was all mine, I'll watch other videos and like ^^
Great idea. I like it a lot. The only problem is when the screw head faces the tool post. You won't be able to get the wrench in there.
Yeah that's potential issue. Might end up making a V2.0 after I use these for a while and that'll be one of the things that get fixed. Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
Not a problem, just lift the tool holder clear of the post, tighten and drop back in😊
I guess I'm from another civilization. I do my chamfers with a file. Anyway. Good job. And I like your knurling tool. I need to make one because I hate the other type. I mean type that you put pressure on the X axis.
I just found your channel and I love the excellent narration and outstanding video quality ❤Subscribed❤
Thank you very much! I'm glad you're enjoying the vids and I appreciate the awesome compliment. And thanks for the sub!
How about modifying a double-ended set screw and attaching a head on one side (press-fit, pin, loctite, etc.)?
That way you can tighten it from either side using the same allen key.
You could make a small allen key holder that attaches to the toolpost. Like 3d print it or machine it, maybe held on with magnets. Doesnt need to be a huge key just a small key, then its always there.
solid idea!
Awesome nuts! Love these. Mine come loose all the time. This is a better mousetrap vs. the jam nuts.
Haha, thanks! It's definitely not a perfect solution but it's a good first try I guess. I'll probably have a "V2.0" at some point in the future. Would really like to be able to do it all by hand without any other tools needed. Thanks for watching!
Now all you gotta do is make a double ended Allen WRENCH to use on these and the tool clamping bolts! I always figured doing something like this would also solve the height registration losses tightening the lock nut
Hmmm, this is a pretty darn good idea... 🤔 Thank you for watching btw!
is there a solution for the situation where the bolt head is on the backside, colliding with the toolpost? is it stable enough to remove the tool holder, then lock it via the clamp? I love this idea, and am like 85% I want to add this to my lathe as well. Great project!
Nice video!
How do you tighten the split nut when the allen head faces the toolholder?
Thanks very much! You can lift the tool holder or use a washer to re-clock the screw. And thank you for watching!
This is a great idea. Those adjusters annoy me every time I use them. I will size the lock screw to use the same allen key as the tool clamp screws.
Thanks very much! And that is a great idea. Thank you for watching!
Thats a nice one! 👍I thank you - as always - for sharing your work! It seems to me, your video quality is getting better and better...thumbs up! 🙂
Thank you very much! I'm working at getting better 🙂 And as always thank you for watching!
Very nice video. I'm thinking I need to spend a few hours in the shop now.
It is evident you've thought about the content to be able to explain what you're doing without all the 'ums' that plague so many other channels.
Thank you very much! Yes I put a great deal of effort into the vids but it's worth every second for the awesome support and feedback that I get. The "community" of great folks that is springing up around the channel has been humbling, inspiring, and motivating. Thank you so much for watching!
Nicely done!
Thank you very much!
That's my favorite kind of project. Little things you have to make and can't buy. Especially if it's brass/bronze. Man I love bronze.
Me too! It makes me feel like I actually know what I'm doing because it machines so nice lol. Thank you for watching btw!
good idea,nicely done
Thank you very much!
I like the idea. I'm wondering if there is a solution for when the ideal tool height means the new nut/knob sits so access to the allen portion of the fastener is blocked by the tool post. It seems you might be losing some fine adjustability with this. Am I thinking about this correctly?
Yeah that could definitely be an issue. I am going to use these 3 for a while I think and see how it goes. But if it turns out to be a problem then might need to make some modifications. But it's all in fun, learning, and getting better. :)
If the allen screw isn't accessable you could add a washer underneath to change the position.
@@MurrayC Great idea
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.@@hersch_tool
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.@@hersch_tool
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.
Nice editing!
Thank you! I am trying to get better and learn more about it with every video.
I like it man,going to make myself a few, great video..
Thanks very much! It's a fun little project, let me know how you make out. And thank you for watching!
Good idea but i think you could bet better all round access to the locking screw if you slit the brass thumbwheel horizontally rather than vertically. The horizontal slit would want to be about 1/4 way down from the top so the force needed to pinch the nut threads together isn't too high.
Also consider trying some similar knurled thumb wheels with a homemade 'nyloc' insert and then it is just the friction of the 'nyloc' needed to keep them in the desired height setting.
This is not intended to be any negative criticism of your efforts,just a bit of bouncing a few other ideas around. I do agree the standard thumb wheel and locknut system is a PITA to deal with.
Thanks very much, those are both really good ideas. I have been kicking around ideas in my head to improve the design as this first attempt is "ok" but definitely isn't great. The "nyloc" or friction type solution seems interesting because ultimately I am always looking for ways to eliminate all of the extra tools that I'm constantly reaching for to help tighten and loosen things. I am adding both of these ideas to the list lol. There will be a V2.0 at some point when I find that "perfect" solution. Thanks again, and thank you for watching!
Great improvement.
Thank you!
One variation you might consider doing is not thread the back end, but instead put in a camlock nut on the back, (with a milled surface to cam off of) and effectively eliminate the need for even the allen key once t he cam-lock-nut is assembled and adjusted so the camlock latch works as expected.
@@RNMSC yeah that’s a pretty cool idea. Thanks for watching btw!
Great idea and execution but what do you do if the height puts the socket head behind the or towards the spindle? I'm curious if the band could be a slip ring around the clamping surface so you could keep the socket head and an easily accessible angle.
Thanks very much. It's not perfect, there are definitely better solutions. this comment has been made about a bazillion times lol, you can lift the holder up and out of the way in that case, it works but again it's not perfect. Thanks very much for watching btw.
nice upgrade, enjoyed and subbed cheers!
Thanks very much, and thank you for the sub!
Those lock nuts/knurled nuts drive me insane. They either work loose or jam and then wind out the stud. I'd like to replicate what you've done but I'll probably use steel and parkerise them. (Brass ain't cheap)😢
Cheers, Preso
Yep, exactly! And steel might even be a better choice. I think I'll likely make some revisions to the idea over time, and the next version I would also like to try a nice stainless maybe. I love your channel btw, been following on my personal account for quite a while. Thank you so much for watching btw!
Nice job, nice video... great quality. I only see one problem with your new 'system'. how do you tighten the cinch bolt when it faces outward from the headstock... ie faces the toolpost bolt?
Thanks very much! And yeah we've been discussing that in the comments, can always lift it up or even use a washer, but it might need a version 2.0 in the future! Thank you for watching btw!
I wonder if a thrust washer under it would smooth the adjustment even more?
Not really necessary because there isn't any pressure being applied when it's being adjusted. A thrust washer is good in circumstances where friction is acting against rotation, which isn't really happening here. Good question though, always looking to improve and that's what it takes! Thanks very much for watching btw!
great idea ! I sure enjoy your channel , thanks .. 👍👍
Thank you very much! I'm very happy that you're enjoying the channel, and I appreciate you taking the time to watch! So thank YOU! 👍♥️
I think you can tighten the brass nut just enough so it will not come loose but can still be turned by hand. Meaning hex wrench will not be needed after initial setup.
Yeah you can definitely find that "sweet spot" for a friction fit that will allow you to adjust it without the Allen wrench but is tight enough that it shouldn't move around on you. Thanks very much for watching!
Great stuff!
Thank you!
I like that Idea im going to do something like that.
I’m fairly new to machining. I like your ideas a lot. But I was thinking, what about a lever instead of that Allen screw?
It would certainly be nice to not need the Allen wrench, a cam lever maybe? Thanks very much for watching!
At certain height settings it seems access to the locking screw will be blocked by other parts of your setup. Is this a problem? You could probably use thin washer used as a spacer when that happens, with the right thickness of washer, it would move the screw to the front. Is there a simpler fix if the access to the locking screw is blocked?
How do you tighten the hex screw if center height adjustment causes it to be indexed on the side of the tool post?
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.
What if the screw is facing the tool post after setting the height? Are you able to sqeeze the hex key in between?
Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thank you very much for watching!
What do you do when the SHCS ends up in a position that can’t be accessed by an Allen wrench?
Good question, check the comments it's been brought up a couple times. It can be fixed with a washer, but likely there will be a version 2.0 of this in the future. Gonna use them for a while, and then make tweaks/changes based on experience using them. Thank you for watching!
if you could have the Allen key same size as tool holder screws would be good
Yeah that would be ideal. I was working with the cap screws that I had in my box, but I'm getting great ideas in the comments so maybe a version 2.0 in the future. Thank you very much, and thank you for watching!
You rock brother
Thanks man, so do you!
I think it's a good idea and it will work very well. And if the bolt ends up in front of the centre bolt of the toolpost, all you have to do is lift the toolholder a bit to be able to reach the bolt. So, good one.
Thanks very much. I think they came out alright for a first attempt, they work the way I'd hoped they would so that's always a win lol.
What if the screw alignment is straight back into the tool post handles, I don't see how you'll get any tool in there to tighten the locking screw. Apart from that it's a nice idea. Just wondering if you could turn it into a downward locking screw within some kind of cam system?
Yeah that's a valid question. Check the comments, we've been discussing it lol. You could always just lift the tool post off to tighten it, or add a washer, etc. But I'll use these for a while and might revisit with a V2.0 in the future to address any issues and make improvements. But it's not a show stopping issue either way at least for now. A cam lock with a thumb actuated mechanism might be a really cool idea too. Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
It needs to be a split collar with 2 screws that oppose each other. Then either screw can be used to tighten the brass nut at any rotation.
@@TrekSLDuraAce that’s not a bad thought, but that splits the nut completely in two pieces which I think isn’t ideal either.
Rather than some type of lock, I like to have a friction element, tight enough to keep it from drifting, but still allowing adjustment without tools.
Yeah that's a good idea too. You can accomplish something like that with a design like this, just tighten the lock screw enough to cause drag but not enough to lock. I'd make them from steel maybe for that though. Just because the brass is likely to wear quickly against the steel post with all that friction.
I like it except if the new lock screw is facing the main assy, then it's gunna be tight to get an allen wrench in place. How about knurled thumb screws instead ?
Next should be mushroom type caps to top the stud for a place to grab the holder when removing it from the post.
Yeah that could definitely be an issue. I think this will likely be "mark 1" of this design lol. Thumb screws are a solid idea, and I love the mushroom post idea as well, that would definitely be a worthwhile upgrade. Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
How about countersinking the other side too? That way, if your adjustment positions the nut in such a way that you can’t get your allen wrench in the set screw, you could just donit from the opposite side?
You mean split the nut in half and use 2 screws instead of one? Yeah that could probably work. I might do some revisions to the design in the future if it turns out to be an issue so I'll be mining all the comments for ideas lol. Thank you, and thank you for watching!
@@hersch_tool actually, I was thinking of countersinking both sides, so you could insert the bolt from either side.
@@jonirish323 The counter sunk side is clearance drilled for bolt, not threaded. That's what applies the clamping pressure as the bolt is tightened. If both sides were threaded, then the bolt would just bottom out and wouldn't apply a clamping force.
@@hersch_tool ahh
@@jonirish323 😉
I'm confused. If both sides of the slit are threaded, how does tightening the screw actually bring them together? Did you drill out the threads on the counterbore side at some point? Also, what is your plan if you spin the nut and the screw head is facing your quick change post? You won't be able to get a hex key in there.
Both sides are not threaded, and just lift up the tool holder clear of the post.
@@hersch_tool That makes sense, thanks. I must have missed the part where you drilled through the counterbored section with a larger drill bit. The shot at 11:30 when you are holding them makes it look like both halves are threaded.
Just wondering if the threads for the SHCS are in both sides of the split, how you can tighten it. I would have thought it would work better with no threads on the head side, but maybe I’m missing something.
You can't tighten it if both sides are threaded. As I explained in the vid, one side (the head side) is drilled for clearance around the bolt. Thanks for watching!
Ok, thanks for clarifying this for me!
@@almacdonald2506 No probs :)
I like it a lot
Thank you!
I found your channel a few days back and watched the top lever being made. I liked your style of video making. but felt that I wanted to see another video with perhaps something original. Well, this was the one. I nice idea that is original, or original enough, that is combined with nicely paced and nicely narrated video. I'm sold and subscribed and liked. And I'll be having a go at my own brass set screw nuts like yours. But since I've got a bucket load of 1" good quality aluminum round bar I suspect that'll be my material of choice.
My lathe has two T handle hex key wrenches that I use for my tool holders. I made them up with a cross bar and a knurled "spinner" stub to work with my tool holders. I use a mix of old and new that need a 3/16 and 4mm. Thus the two sizes. I find it's a lot easier to keep the shop made T handle hex key tools than the simple L keys. Those little guys seem to grow legs and hide....
Thank you very much! I'm glad that I was able to earn the sub, I really do appreciate it, thank you! And the multi size t handle sounds like a great idea!
👍👍😎👍👍 - fun project
It was a lot of fun, thank you for watching!
Muito bom 👏👏
Muito obrigado
How to tighten the screw if its head will look at the center of the toolholder? )
you can just lift it up and out of the way in that case. but i think there is still a better design than this one for that reason which is why i haven't made more of these. thanks for watching
12:56 Wow, trading a wrench for an allen wrench WAS disappointing. 😄 I was expecting something like a cam to clamp it in position instead.
Haha, baby steps my friend, we’ll get there. This war is far from over! 😉
Mean. To say that they don’t come lose They don’t come lose. 👍
Will your cap screw always be accessible when the allen socket is facing the center post? Any clearance for Clarence the modified Allen key? ?
Good question, check the comments, we've been discussing this a lot. Could just lift it up, or use a washer. But might make a V2.0 in the future if it ends up being an issue. Thanks very much for watching btw! 🙂
@@hersch_tool You fall into the category of " Thinking things through with practical application eludes most people"
@@charlieharper981 not exactly sure what that's supposed to mean
So, you've eliminated the need for an adjustable wrench to tighten your locking nut. And replaced it with a hex wrench to tighten your locking nut. Nice work.
Because we are CIVILIZED people my favorite line love it. 😂
LOL, the irony right? Thanks very much for watching btw!
The one thing I can't stand is good looking parts that are not deburred or have sharp edges. If you hand me a part that has this in my mind you failed. I was taught by old German tool and mold and die makers. That is a Total no no in their shop lol.
@@terrydawson5304 the German machinists are masters indeed. I feel like they value the skills of machining and engineering very highly.
Doesn't this limit your height adjustment by like 1/3 of a turn every rotation? Like you can't actually set the height to any position that faces the screw head towards the body of the tool? Or is height not that critical of a measurement in general?
Lol, read through the other comments, this has been asked, a lot... 😅 You can just lift of the tool holder to tighten it if that's the case, or can slide a washer underneath to change the position of screw head. Thanks very much for watching btw!
Good thinking.
Thanks very much! And thank you for watching!
A lock nut with a nylon insert would work. There are no forces that would make it turn and if it loosens from repeated adjustment you can buy them by the hundreds for pennies.
Yeah that would work as well, but a nyloc nut is difficult to turn, usually requires a wrench, just isn't the solution I'm looking for personally. But I think would be a fine solution. I've actually had nyloc nuts on some of them in the past and ended up ripping them off in a fit of frustration while attempting to adjust tool height and dealing with the lock nut fighting me at every turn... pun intended? lol. Good idea though. :)
It looks nice but the old system is way more practical. Is much easier to trow a wrench on the top nut and turn it than to fiddle around to get the allan wrench in place. Also, I would like to see how you use it if the screw lands in the other side.
Nicely made👍, but i see there a problem.... how you lock the screw, when the hex is ecactly at your tool post?
Okay you can take the tool holder out of the toolpost, but unlock the handle, get it out, lock the screw, get it in, lock the handle .......oh and now you realise the tool is too low/high.......the same procedure backwards and perhaps this more than one time......till it fits perfect.....
That would bother me, after a short time of usage. 🤔
Yeah, it's definitely not perfect. There is room for improvement, I'll make a V2.0 at some point in the future to address issues. Thanks for watching!
Don't beat yourself up too much about reinventing the wheel. As long as there are no sharp corners, it is probably still a wheel like object. Good video.
Haha yeah I guess there's really nothing new under the sun anyway right? Thanks very much btw, and thank you for watching!
Why not just 2 knurled knobs?
That's definitely not a bad idea either. I've gotten some good ideas in the comments on this one so might be a "version 2.0" in the future. Thank you very much, and thank you for watching!
I like it.
Thank you very much!
What if the correct tool height is so that the locking nut is facing the tool holder? You wouldn't have access to the locking nut then.
you can just lift the holder up and off the QCTP
@@joergengeerds360 Yep, exactly. It's a fair question though, and I think I'll use these 3 for a while and then maybe work on a version 2.0 to address any outstanding issues like that one that come up along the way.
The handsome nuts are nice but the wrench is just extra work. Tighten the screws just enough for a light friction drag and leave the wrench on your bench. Adjust once and you’re done.
That's not a bad idea! Thanks!
What happens when the lock bolt is inaccessible?
You can just lift the tool holder and tighten it down if it's facing the post. But for that reason and some others this isn't the end all be all solution. I still think it's better than the jam nuts, which constantly get stuck together on me, but far from perfect.
Master Craftsmen.
Wow that's a very kind compliment! Thank you so much, and thank you for watching!
Not a bad idea.
Thanks! It's a good start anyway I think. Could definitely use some improvements, but that's what trying and learning is all about! Thanks very much for watching!
Nice project, only seen one thing, if your adjustments have the screw towards the back, you may not have room to get your allen "wrench" to the screw, so yes you traded on wrench for a different one 😂 but still nice project and looks nice too
Lol yeah, sweet sweet irony... 🤣 And yep, it definitely has some "bugs" that need to be worked out. This will likely be a "V1.0", I'll use these ones for a bit and see what I think and then make some tweaks/changes for V2.0 in the future. Thank you very much btw, and thank you for watching!
Time to do something about that pesky carriage lock wrench. Lol
It's days are numbered... 😂
Piece of advice. I watch hobbist and people who do this for a living. I am very proud of the work I make. So i dont linke dings in my work. Get a long ejector pin of several diameters. Cut the head off. (They are hardend. This may be an issue) Stick them in the tailstock/chuck. Parts catcher! I hate watching parts fling to the bottom of the lathe. One layer of electrical tape will protect both surfaces. Not that it has much force when the cut off tool shoots it off.
As for the wrench vs allen key... a small piece of magentic tape and 2 allen keys are easier to maintain and takes up less space than a wrench that is always in the way but no where to be found when i need it. 🤷♂️
I do find it somewhat ironic that you swapped a wrench for a allen key. But will admit, looks like you did a nice job
Lol, yeah. I guess I just have something against wrenches... No idea what my deal is with that. 😂 But thank you very much! And thank you for watching!
I call that an allen wrench though...
BUT you had to use a wrench to tighten the knurling tool
The war is far from over! *Shakes fist in air* 😂 lol, thank you very much for watching btw!
Nice
Thank you!
Maybe you can reinvent the NUT on the knurling tool where you don't need a wrench.
a lot of them have bars for hand twisting instead of nuts
uhhmm.... hear me out.. but what if ... what if the head of the screw is directly in the center of the toolholder... how do you thighten it then?
Very, VERY carefully... Lol. It's a design flaw. Lots of comments about it. Can pull up the tool holder, use a washer to re-clock the screw, etc. But I'll probably do a 2nd version in the future to address that and any other issues I find along the way. Thanks for watching!
Maybe you can reinvent a new vise wrech where you don't need a wrench
OOOOH maybe Aloris will buy your reinvention.
Lol 😂 thank you for watching!
Why not use a wing nut in place of the hex nut....no wrench needed.
@@donniee1934 not a bad idea, might run into space constraints though because of the “wing”.
@@hersch_tool
Use a wing nut small enough to clear and tap it to 3/8-24.