I’ve bought a few Vevor products. 30L ultrasonic cleaner, 6” mill vise, and my latest, small mag drill. So far, I’m quite pleased. For the hobbyist, the quality, in relation to price point, is very good. The packaging for shipping is the best I’ve seen. The user manuals are marginal, but I can’t complain about quality.
Agreed with every part of this comment.. and I will say this, I work my tools hard, sometimes it could be considered “a bu se” . And they have held up and surprised me big time . Ohh and ps, also have noticed the same casting patterns or bits pieces to be the same as the more expensive one.
@@hersch_tool you welcome, however i wished if u have tested it on a very wide web (perhaps a far broken 135 bit) to really test the split point perhaps u can make a short reel or a follow up video on that, it will be great as nobody made that before, for me it is the real test as anybody can hand resharpen a thin web drill successfully
thank you very much! i've been legitimately happy with mine. i use it all the time now just because it's so easy to touch up a drill before using it. definitely has turned out to be useful little machine
I had never heard of a split point / secondary relief point until today. That says more about me, but that alone made this video of the Vevor drill sharpener of added value. Greetings from the Netherlands.
This is the 3rd video I've watched to help me understand my Vevor and it was really good. One thing I noticed is as you mentioned drills that are close to the beginning or end of the size range of a collet are harder to work with because the fit is very tight or very loose at the beginning. Especially small drills. One example is 1/8". In fact anything this size or smaller are difficult to orient properly using the collet jig on the left of the machine. as you rotate them clockwise sometimes the cutting edge of the drill doesn't stop against the ledge because the drill is just too small to catch. Also my smaller drills sometimes have a parabolic shape so that the primary cutting edge isn't straight. When this happens I visually double check and rotate the drill so that a) the cutting edge is parallel to the flat spot on the collet fixture and b) the chisel line at the crown of the drill is oriented about 1 o'clock position relative to flat spot on the collet fixture (assuming flat spot is oriented up at 12 oclock). In the manual there is a sketch where the chisel is oriented closer to 2 o'clock position so maybe that's more correct... but on the bigger drills that work with the jig it seems to orient the chisel line to more about 1. If a drill bit is broken and I'm trying to regrind it's often difficult to see or feel it's orientation. So in that case I end up just guessing, tightening the collet and grinding it. After an initial grind I can go back to the orientation jig at the left and am able to visualize the drill better (and rotate it clockwise to stop against the ledge as you instructed). I also have to use the orientation jig twice and grind twice if I'm changing a drill from 118 to 135 degrees. I changed most of my bits to 135 on the theory that with the split tip they will work better on hard steel. For wood drilling is easy anyway so having the 135 angle isn't a big problem for me. I've wanted a drill sharpener for a while and am glad I got this instead of the drill doctor. I bought some dewalt 135 degree Split tips and they are so much faster through heavy steel than the standard 118 harbor freight bits that I now grind to that standard.
Thanks very much! I'm glad the vid was helpful. And yeah, I do the same thing. Most of my drills have now been re-ground to 135 degrees using this machine. The vast majority of the drilling that I do is in steel of some sort, often stainless so it just makes sense. It's a good little machine, I've been very happy with mine. Thanks very much for watching!
I bought one of the different versions of this machine but for all intents and purposes it’s exactly the same. I noticed after sharpening a number of different sized bits the grit of the wheel became smoother and gave a more consistent finish which was a plus. It takes less than a minute to sharpen any bit up to 1/2” and as you mentioned because it’s metric I bought an extra set of ER20 collets in imperial size for the bits that are at just the outside range. Luckily the machine is pretty easy to figure out after using it and applying logic to the process because if I had to rely solely on the instructions I would have returned it because I don’t think I could have figured it out from scratch. They really need to hire someone who’s fluent in Chinese and English to rewrite the manual. There’s also no mention whatsoever about how to use or adjust the relief when using that portion of the machine. I do like that it’s extremely quiet and does its job well regardless of cost. This thing is a bargain.
I have watched most of the videos on the Vevor and yours is the easiest to follow, albeit there weren't very many when I purchased my grinder. I still watch them to see if someone has a tip or two. I have not played with the split point dial adjustment; but I use the pins whenever I change from large or small bits. I have a 13B and as you found out, it is very easy to use. I have sharpened about the same number of bits as you, but I have that many again to do. I sort them by the condition of the shank, albeit I will probably sharpen all of them and use the bad shanks in my drill press. I do most of my drilling with a mill and use Imperial R8 collets The bad shanks don't work very well in R8 collets. Good presentation!
thanks very much, i appreciate that. and i love mine. i use it all the time now, it's just so easy to touch up a drill mid project, good little machine imho.
I'm a fabricator so I'm always drilling. i've had decent luck sharpening by hand but I'd like to have more consistency. I think this is the tool for the job
Good job on the review, I did the same. I made an alteration on mine after doing the review. My drills looked great and worked well in the drill press but when used in a hand drill i noticed the drills required a lot of pressure. Then I discovered that the drill didn't have enough relief angle... or so it appeared. This angle is hard to measure because you are measuring off a curve. Plus after doing a little research there is a wide range of recommended relief angle. Anyway, I put a stop on mine to limit the rotation of the collet/drill while sharpening and it helped reduce the needed pressure needed to drill in steel.
Thanks very much! That's interesting, I haven't noticed them needing more pressure but I haven't tried one in a hand drill yet either. I'll have to look into that, thanks for the "tip"... pun intended... hahahaha! love your channel btw, been watching for a long time. I'll have to check your videos for that mod you made, I remember you doing a review a while ago but don't remember the mod. thanks again!
Machinist here. Tbh I have a drill doctor in the shop, two actually, one that is very old and still in the box. But Ive had mild to little success with the new one. The best I've done is watch a butt ton of Japanese YT vids on sharpening by hand and after going straight to the grinder on my first try I had amazing results. So good I didn't think it was real. Did a few more and sure enough they worked great.
I sharpen larger drills by hand and can say that I've become fairly adept and get good consistent results. But for smaller drills, this thing just makes it too easy to not use lol. A perfect split point every time, and even quickly re-profile if you want for a specific job like drilling a lot of stainless or whatever. I don't know why but I find it harder to get a reliable result when hand grinding the smaller drills. I guess it's harder to see what I'm doing and easier to go too far in one direction. Thanks so much for watching btw!
This machine is a viable option to a Darex sharpener, at around $4000. A Drill Doctor is something you buy at Home Depot, then realizing the job it does, you give it to your son in law. 😅
SD = Synthetic Diamond (man made). I have the same machine and I think it is excellent! Most of the Vevor products I've purchased have been very good. The only exception is the Vevor MX-8x14 mini lathe. It has been a piece of crap and took about 9 months of scraping, grinding and elbow grease to get it to cut metal.
Ahhh, synthetic, that makes sense. And I agree, I've been pleasantly surprised with the general quality of vevor's stuff. Sorry to hear about the mini lathe though. I think they are hit or miss in general from what I've heard. But it sounds like you got it squared away though, so kudos on tackling the problem head on. Thanks for watching btw!
EXCELLENT review & tutorial. I have one of these new in the box and never would have figured out how to use it. The only question I would ask in addition to your excellent review is: are there replacement wheels available? Thanks so much for the interesting and informative video.
Thank you very much! I'm so glad that you found it helpful! And yep, you can get replacement wheels from a few different sources I've found. Shars has them, also eBay, and you can get them from US distributors as well, though they are much pricier but I imagine the quality is also higher. You're looking for: 78mm x 10mm x 12.63mm arbor. Cheers, and thank you for watching!
@@andyscott5978As you mention a price in Euros I assume you are in Europe which is weird as I am in France and the price of this unit on the Vevor site is 269.99 euros. Perhaps you hit the wrong button doing a dollar to euro conversion?
Thank you for watching! And yeah the vevor has at least earned its place in my little shop. I have to admit, I didn't know how much I needed a drill sharpener until I had one lol.
An excellent review of what appears to a very good product. I’m very impressed by the close fits of the components and overall quality of the machine. This sharpener is light years ahead of my old DD 500.
Yep, they're standard ER collets so it's easy to find replacements or even additional sizes if you want. Thanks very much btw, and thank you for watching!
So what is the difference between B and D versions of this machine? I was looking for 10 videos. And what i saw - advertise for buy this machine, no real understood of what are the versions, what are the concurrents of this, who invent this at all. I dont see any small drills grinding like 1/10" or even less (2,0 mm 2.3 mm.). There is collet for this. How well it is working?
@@hersch_tool great, if i understood correctly for both hss and cobalt drill bit you are using the CBN wheel and for the carbide drill bits you should use the SD wheel?
@@hersch_tool The next to the point splitting hole with U and D on it. It is supposedly used to adjust point splitting. No one has made a video and changed the knob setting to show what it does.
@@freds4703 It moves the whole assembly up and down, basically further into or further away from the grinding wheel. It allows you to control the depth of the grind for the split point. I think I did actually film a bit about it, but for whatever reason it didn't make it into the vid, likely because I forgot to add it lol. But in my experience, the real world adjustability is very small due to the size rang of drills you'll be grinding. You have a very small window where it gives the grind that you need across that entire range. So, find that spot, set it, and forget it really.
I recon this test will tell a good story, coz I think that’s what most people buying this will do.. sit down and re sharpen the “collection” over the years of drill bits they have laying about EVERYWHERE! Haha 😂🤣
Lol, yeah that was my thought. And I watched a couple other reviews of this unit before making this vid and hadn't seen anyone else do that, so I figured it might be useful for some folks. Thank you for watching btw!
If it will make it easier for you, measure the collets with a caliper and write down the sizes. Then measure the drill bit you want to secure and find the collet that fits. Yes, I am being sarcastic because all ER collets are made to fit a range of sizes. They are very handy when you don't have an R8 that fits exactly. The numbers on the collets correspond to the numbers on the dial when indexing the bit into the collet. The numbers on the collets are mm, but it makes no difference since ER collets fit all standards within the range of the collet. Since the adjustment is variable, I will leave it to you to figure out which number you need to set in relation to the size of the bit. It all works flawlessly if you are smarter than the machine! You also need to read the book to learn how to use the dial. You figure it out, the rest of us had to!
If it will make it easier for you, measure the collets with a caliper and write down the sizes. Then measure the drill bit you want to secure and find the collet that fits. Yes, I am being sarcastic because all ER collets are made to fit a range of sizes. They are very handy when you don't have an R8 that fits exactly. The numbers on the collets correspond to the numbers on the dial when indexing the bit into the collet. The numbers on the collets are mm, but it makes no difference since ER collets fit all standards within the range of the collet. Since the adjustment is variable, I will leave it to you to figure out which number you need to set in relation to the size of the bit. It all works flawlessly if you are smarter than the machine! You also need to read the book to learn how to use the dial. You figure it out, the rest of us had to!
Lol, yeah but end mills have much more complex and varied cutting geometry depending on the intended use; center cutting, roughing, finishing... Not to mention that they are also side cutting, have a wide range of flute counts, etc. To sharpen end mills, you really need versatility, not a machine like this. Thanks for watching!
@@hersch_tool yeah I have an old school drill sharpening apparatus that has a guide which locks into the flute. That should be good for endmills, just super tricky to set up. I also have a generic drill doctor type grinder that does half of the Vevor sharpening. No zero point possibilities and no centering. It'll sharpen a drill but might require some back and forth. One thing I should ask will the Vevor sharpen left hand drills? I tried by accident and it to me a sec or two to figure out why it was destroying my tip geometry... Thanks for the response and the video review!
@@skyfreakwi That's a great question, but unfortunately I can't see how this machine could do it. The geometry it creates comes from a combination of the swinging profile mechanism, and the bevel on the grinding wheel. Since a LH drill geometry is essentially "mirrored" to a RH, it's not gonna work. Also, I'm thinking that the wheel would be spinning in the wrong direction as well. If you're really interested in being able to sharpen a lot of different types of cutting tools and geometries, then either a T&C grinder, or a single lip grinder might be good options. I actually have a single lip grinder that I bought a while ago. I can try to do a video on using it for different types of tools in the future.
Obviously you are getting paid big bucks by Vevor for a good product. But with a 1/2" drill maximum it with sell in small shops(hobby) but not for the price .
@@dennistennyson8856 Why would Vevor pay me??? I have the bigger version of this but I haven't said a single thing about it!!! I just find it amusing that this is now your third stupid comment where you try to find silly things to say about it!!! It will sell to people that drill a lot of holes under 13mm, it's as simple as that & It will be incredible value for money for them.
@@dennistennyson8856Another stupid comment by 8856. If you want a cheap piece of shit drill grinder, buy a drill doctor. Anything that uses a chuck instead of a collet is a piece of shit. Do you know what a collet is or how it works? Look it up, you will be smarter if you can read!
@@dennistennyson8856Cost wise it may make sense to throw chinese bits away. But I can't bring myself to do it. And if only once I'm missing a size I need and can regrind it without going to the hardware store or calling to order tools it pays for itself. I LOVE being able to sharpen stuff quickly.
I mate I don't agree with you on the sharpen quality its very good... Also depends how bad your drill is..Its as good as you can do by hand unless you do this 20 times a day
You seldom get both sides even when you hand sharpen unless you use a gauge, and then it takes about twice as long as the machine. It takes me less than a minute to sharpen a bit on the Vevor and that includes the split point.
@@GeorgeGeorge-yb2sz Yep, agreed. Honestly the longer I have this thing in the shop and get used to having it, the more I think that I would never want to give it up lol.
Just looked at the velor site and the Product description sucks. When are these manufactures going to hire people that know ENGLISH to write the manuels and instruction booklets. Some of them are so bad they make no sense.😢
Yeah, that's pretty much par for the course with import tools. I mentioned that in my vid as well. Fortunately, it's pretty simple to figure out how everything works though. I didn't have too much trouble despite the instructions being, "difficult" to follow lol.
I’ve bought a few Vevor products. 30L ultrasonic cleaner, 6” mill vise, and my latest, small mag drill. So far, I’m quite pleased. For the hobbyist, the quality, in relation to price point, is very good. The packaging for shipping is the best I’ve seen. The user manuals are marginal, but I can’t complain about quality.
Yeah, I'd have to agree with you based on my experience so far as well. Thanks for watching btw!
Agreed with every part of this comment.. and I will say this, I work my tools hard, sometimes it could be considered “a bu se” . And they have held up and surprised me big time .
Ohh and ps, also have noticed the same casting patterns or bits pieces to be the same as the more expensive one.
@@replicant357 Yeah, I've noticed that as well ;)
Drill Dr. for the win and 60% the price
I was curious about this product. Thanks for the video
You're very welcome, and thank you for watching!
you reviewed this very professionally, thanks
Thank you! And thanks very much for watching!
@@hersch_tool
you welcome, however i wished if u have tested it on a very wide web (perhaps a far broken 135 bit) to really test the split point
perhaps u can make a short reel or a follow up video on that, it will be great as nobody made that before, for me it is the real test as anybody can hand resharpen a thin web drill successfully
Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
I love at 19:30 you went all "This old tony" in your delivery. lol
That's quite a compliment! :) Thank you for watching!
Nice thorough review. Very well done..
Thanks very much. And thanks for taking the time to watch
Enjoying your videos from a fellow hobbyist, you are doing a good job.
Thank you so much! Hearing that is what makes it all worthwhile and keeps me motivated.
Good review. Thx for the vid.
Thank you very much! And thank you for watching.
Thanks for the sharpener review. Seriously thinking about trying this one out. Great job
thank you very much! i've been legitimately happy with mine. i use it all the time now just because it's so easy to touch up a drill before using it. definitely has turned out to be useful little machine
I had never heard of a split point / secondary relief point until today. That says more about me, but that alone made this video of the Vevor drill sharpener of added value. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thank you very much! I'm glad you got something worthwhile out of it. :) Greetings from the states, and thank you for watching!
This is the 3rd video I've watched to help me understand my Vevor and it was really good. One thing I noticed is as you mentioned drills that are close to the beginning or end of the size range of a collet are harder to work with because the fit is very tight or very loose at the beginning. Especially small drills. One example is 1/8". In fact anything this size or smaller are difficult to orient properly using the collet jig on the left of the machine. as you rotate them clockwise sometimes the cutting edge of the drill doesn't stop against the ledge because the drill is just too small to catch. Also my smaller drills sometimes have a parabolic shape so that the primary cutting edge isn't straight. When this happens I visually double check and rotate the drill so that a) the cutting edge is parallel to the flat spot on the collet fixture and b) the chisel line at the crown of the drill is oriented about 1 o'clock position relative to flat spot on the collet fixture (assuming flat spot is oriented up at 12 oclock). In the manual there is a sketch where the chisel is oriented closer to 2 o'clock position so maybe that's more correct... but on the bigger drills that work with the jig it seems to orient the chisel line to more about 1. If a drill bit is broken and I'm trying to regrind it's often difficult to see or feel it's orientation. So in that case I end up just guessing, tightening the collet and grinding it. After an initial grind I can go back to the orientation jig at the left and am able to visualize the drill better (and rotate it clockwise to stop against the ledge as you instructed). I also have to use the orientation jig twice and grind twice if I'm changing a drill from 118 to 135 degrees. I changed most of my bits to 135 on the theory that with the split tip they will work better on hard steel. For wood drilling is easy anyway so having the 135 angle isn't a big problem for me. I've wanted a drill sharpener for a while and am glad I got this instead of the drill doctor. I bought some dewalt 135 degree Split tips and they are so much faster through heavy steel than the standard 118 harbor freight bits that I now grind to that standard.
Thanks very much! I'm glad the vid was helpful. And yeah, I do the same thing. Most of my drills have now been re-ground to 135 degrees using this machine. The vast majority of the drilling that I do is in steel of some sort, often stainless so it just makes sense. It's a good little machine, I've been very happy with mine. Thanks very much for watching!
Great review, thanks. JG
Thank you! You're very welcome, and thank you for watching!
I bought one of the different versions of this machine but for all intents and purposes it’s exactly the same. I noticed after sharpening a number of different sized bits the grit of the wheel became smoother and gave a more consistent finish which was a plus. It takes less than a minute to sharpen any bit up to 1/2” and as you mentioned because it’s metric I bought an extra set of ER20 collets in imperial size for the bits that are at just the outside range. Luckily the machine is pretty easy to figure out after using it and applying logic to the process because if I had to rely solely on the instructions I would have returned it because I don’t think I could have figured it out from scratch. They really need to hire someone who’s fluent in Chinese and English to rewrite the manual. There’s also no mention whatsoever about how to use or adjust the relief when using that portion of the machine. I do like that it’s extremely quiet and does its job well regardless of cost. This thing is a bargain.
Yeah I agree on pretty much every point. Especially about the wheels, once they even out a bit they do give a much nicer finish. Thanks for watching!
very nice video been looking at this machine for a while now i'll probably buy one . thank you.
Thanks very much! It's a good little machine, I hope it works out as well for you as it did for me. And thank you for watching!
Good video, good narration job.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much! I appreciate that. And thank you for watching!
I have watched most of the videos on the Vevor and yours is the easiest to follow, albeit there weren't very many when I purchased my grinder. I still watch them to see if someone has a tip or two. I have not played with the split point dial adjustment; but I use the pins whenever I change from large or small bits.
I have a 13B and as you found out, it is very easy to use. I have sharpened about the same number of bits as you, but I have that many again to do. I sort them by the condition of the shank, albeit I will probably sharpen all of them and use the bad shanks in my drill press. I do most of my drilling with a mill and use Imperial R8 collets The bad shanks don't work very well in R8 collets.
Good presentation!
Thank you very much, that's quite a big compliment!
Great video. Very thorough.
I'm getting one
Thanks very much! I hope it works out well for you, mine has been a good tool so far.
Great job. You stuck with the operation and use of the machine without a bunch of filler babble.
Thanks very much, and thank you for watching!
Very well done presentation. Thank you.😊
Thanks! And thank you very much for watching!
Awesome video. I like how you hit all the details but did not drag everything out. makes me want to buy one. Thanks
thanks very much, i appreciate that. and i love mine. i use it all the time now, it's just so easy to touch up a drill mid project, good little machine imho.
I'm a fabricator so I'm always drilling. i've had decent luck sharpening by hand but I'd like to have more consistency. I think this is the tool for the job
@@cameronjacobs3144 i've been very happy with mine, it works surprisingly well considering how cheap it is compared to the name brand options.
Good job on the review, I did the same. I made an alteration on mine after doing the review. My drills looked great and worked well in the drill press but when used in a hand drill i noticed the drills required a lot of pressure. Then I discovered that the drill didn't have enough relief angle... or so it appeared. This angle is hard to measure because you are measuring off a curve. Plus after doing a little research there is a wide range of recommended relief angle. Anyway, I put a stop on mine to limit the rotation of the collet/drill while sharpening and it helped reduce the needed pressure needed to drill in steel.
Thanks very much! That's interesting, I haven't noticed them needing more pressure but I haven't tried one in a hand drill yet either. I'll have to look into that, thanks for the "tip"... pun intended... hahahaha! love your channel btw, been watching for a long time. I'll have to check your videos for that mod you made, I remember you doing a review a while ago but don't remember the mod. thanks again!
@@hersch_tool I never made a video on the modification, I probably need to.
@@WinkysWorkshopI would like to see a video of your modification Wink.
Machinist here. Tbh I have a drill doctor in the shop, two actually, one that is very old and still in the box. But Ive had mild to little success with the new one. The best I've done is watch a butt ton of Japanese YT vids on sharpening by hand and after going straight to the grinder on my first try I had amazing results. So good I didn't think it was real. Did a few more and sure enough they worked great.
I sharpen larger drills by hand and can say that I've become fairly adept and get good consistent results. But for smaller drills, this thing just makes it too easy to not use lol. A perfect split point every time, and even quickly re-profile if you want for a specific job like drilling a lot of stainless or whatever. I don't know why but I find it harder to get a reliable result when hand grinding the smaller drills. I guess it's harder to see what I'm doing and easier to go too far in one direction. Thanks so much for watching btw!
This machine is a viable option to a Darex sharpener, at around $4000. A Drill Doctor is something you buy at Home Depot, then realizing the job it does, you give it to your son in law. 😅
Great video
Thanks!!!
Better carried out than other reviews of the machine
That's quite a high compliment, thanks very much!
SD = Synthetic Diamond (man made). I have the same machine and I think it is excellent!
Most of the Vevor products I've purchased have been very good. The only exception is the Vevor MX-8x14 mini lathe. It has been a piece of crap and took about 9 months of scraping, grinding and elbow grease to get it to cut metal.
Ahhh, synthetic, that makes sense. And I agree, I've been pleasantly surprised with the general quality of vevor's stuff. Sorry to hear about the mini lathe though. I think they are hit or miss in general from what I've heard. But it sounds like you got it squared away though, so kudos on tackling the problem head on. Thanks for watching btw!
EXCELLENT review & tutorial. I have one of these new in the box and never would have figured out how to use it. The only question I would ask in addition to your excellent review is: are there replacement wheels available? Thanks so much for the interesting and informative video.
Thank you very much! I'm so glad that you found it helpful! And yep, you can get replacement wheels from a few different sources I've found. Shars has them, also eBay, and you can get them from US distributors as well, though they are much pricier but I imagine the quality is also higher. You're looking for: 78mm x 10mm x 12.63mm arbor. Cheers, and thank you for watching!
524.99Euros from Vevor. I think not.
@@andyscott5978As you mention a price in Euros I assume you are in Europe which is weird as I am in France and the price of this unit on the Vevor site is 269.99 euros. Perhaps you hit the wrong button doing a dollar to euro conversion?
Nice chips coming off that drill. Good timing.. I'm looking at getting the DD750... I might have to look at the vevor, if the price is right.
Thank you for watching! And yeah the vevor has at least earned its place in my little shop. I have to admit, I didn't know how much I needed a drill sharpener until I had one lol.
That was hot rolled steel in your demo.
An excellent review of what appears to a very good product. I’m very impressed by the close fits of the components and overall quality of the machine. This sharpener is light years ahead of my old DD 500.
Thanks very much! And yeah I was pleasantly surprised by the machine myself. It's already saved a lot of drills from the bin... 🤣
Nice review. Considering getting one myself. Are the collets a standard ER collet?
Yep, they're standard ER collets so it's easy to find replacements or even additional sizes if you want. Thanks very much btw, and thank you for watching!
Those chips are kind of funky they come off in little bits a good sharp Grill will leave a long stringy chip
Can it do brad points?
Nope, can't do brad points. Thank you for watching!
So what is the difference between B and D versions of this machine? I was looking for 10 videos. And what i saw - advertise for buy this machine, no real understood of what are the versions, what are the concurrents of this, who invent this at all. I dont see any small drills grinding like 1/10" or even less (2,0 mm 2.3 mm.). There is collet for this. How well it is working?
hello, did you try to sharpen hss-co drill bit? if yes which wheel did you use? thanksssssss
Yes, you'll use the CBN wheel for all HSS drills. Thanks for watching :)
@@hersch_tool great, if i understood correctly for both hss and cobalt drill bit you are using the CBN wheel and for the carbide drill bits you should use the SD wheel?
@@akka4751 yeah, HSS with cobalt, tungsten, moly, whatever is all still just HSS. And use the diamond for carbide.
In all videos about this machine I have never seen a demo of what the rear knob does and how to do it. Can you show?
Which rear knob? On the split point side?
@@hersch_tool The next to the point splitting hole with U and D on it. It is supposedly used to adjust point splitting. No one has made a video and changed the knob setting to show what it does.
@@freds4703 It moves the whole assembly up and down, basically further into or further away from the grinding wheel. It allows you to control the depth of the grind for the split point. I think I did actually film a bit about it, but for whatever reason it didn't make it into the vid, likely because I forgot to add it lol. But in my experience, the real world adjustability is very small due to the size rang of drills you'll be grinding. You have a very small window where it gives the grind that you need across that entire range. So, find that spot, set it, and forget it really.
How would you sharpen a left-hand drill twist?
This machine is for standard RH drills. Thanks for watching!
yeah no problem, decent video, need left hand drill twist please review one of those@@hersch_tool
Carefully by hand and use a gauge.
I recon this test will tell a good story, coz I think that’s what most people buying this will do.. sit down and re sharpen the “collection” over the years of drill bits they have laying about EVERYWHERE! Haha 😂🤣
Lol, yeah that was my thought. And I watched a couple other reviews of this unit before making this vid and hadn't seen anyone else do that, so I figured it might be useful for some folks. Thank you for watching btw!
For $256.00 it should come with American sized collects. NO SALE !
Do you want it to make you a cup of tea & bring you a biscuit as well???
If it will make it easier for you, measure the collets with a caliper and write down the sizes. Then measure the drill bit you want to secure and find the collet that fits. Yes, I am being sarcastic because all ER collets are made to fit a range of sizes. They are very handy when you don't have an R8 that fits exactly.
The numbers on the collets correspond to the numbers on the dial when indexing the bit into the collet. The numbers on the collets are mm, but it makes no difference since ER collets fit all standards within the range of the collet. Since the adjustment is variable, I will leave it to you to figure out which number you need to set in relation to the size of the bit. It all works flawlessly if you are smarter than the machine!
You also need to read the book to learn how to use the dial. You figure it out, the rest of us had to!
If it will make it easier for you, measure the collets with a caliper and write down the sizes. Then measure the drill bit you want to secure and find the collet that fits. Yes, I am being sarcastic because all ER collets are made to fit a range of sizes. They are very handy when you don't have an R8 that fits exactly.
The numbers on the collets correspond to the numbers on the dial when indexing the bit into the collet. The numbers on the collets are mm, but it makes no difference since ER collets fit all standards within the range of the collet. Since the adjustment is variable, I will leave it to you to figure out which number you need to set in relation to the size of the bit. It all works flawlessly if you are smarter than the machine!
You also need to read the book to learn how to use the dial. You figure it out, the rest of us had to!
Collets work just fine with imperial.
So the real question is how does it do on endmills ? Ope u just said it no endmills...😢 C'mon Vevor!!! Time to step that shit up!
Lol, yeah but end mills have much more complex and varied cutting geometry depending on the intended use; center cutting, roughing, finishing... Not to mention that they are also side cutting, have a wide range of flute counts, etc. To sharpen end mills, you really need versatility, not a machine like this. Thanks for watching!
@@hersch_tool yeah I have an old school drill sharpening apparatus that has a guide which locks into the flute. That should be good for endmills, just super tricky to set up. I also have a generic drill doctor type grinder that does half of the Vevor sharpening. No zero point possibilities and no centering. It'll sharpen a drill but might require some back and forth.
One thing I should ask will the Vevor sharpen left hand drills? I tried by accident and it to me a sec or two to figure out why it was destroying my tip geometry...
Thanks for the response and the video review!
@@skyfreakwi That's a great question, but unfortunately I can't see how this machine could do it. The geometry it creates comes from a combination of the swinging profile mechanism, and the bevel on the grinding wheel. Since a LH drill geometry is essentially "mirrored" to a RH, it's not gonna work. Also, I'm thinking that the wheel would be spinning in the wrong direction as well. If you're really interested in being able to sharpen a lot of different types of cutting tools and geometries, then either a T&C grinder, or a single lip grinder might be good options. I actually have a single lip grinder that I bought a while ago. I can try to do a video on using it for different types of tools in the future.
Vevor makes an end mill grinder, but it is 2 or 3 hundred more than the drill sharpener
One price I saw was $300.00, definitely no sale.
This is your second ridiculous comment, do you work for drill (wobbly chuck) doctor???
Obviously you are getting paid big bucks by Vevor for a good product. But with a 1/2" drill maximum it with sell in small shops(hobby) but not for the price .
@@dennistennyson8856 Why would Vevor pay me??? I have the bigger version of this but I haven't said a single thing about it!!! I just find it amusing that this is now your third stupid comment where you try to find silly things to say about it!!! It will sell to people that drill a lot of holes under 13mm, it's as simple as that & It will be incredible value for money for them.
@@dennistennyson8856Another stupid comment by 8856. If you want a cheap piece of shit drill grinder, buy a drill doctor. Anything that uses a chuck instead of a collet is a piece of shit. Do you know what a collet is or how it works? Look it up, you will be smarter if you can read!
@@dennistennyson8856Cost wise it may make sense to throw chinese bits away. But I can't bring myself to do it. And if only once I'm missing a size I need and can regrind it without going to the hardware store or calling to order tools it pays for itself. I LOVE being able to sharpen stuff quickly.
I mate I don't agree with you on the sharpen quality its very good... Also depends how bad your drill is..Its as good as you can do by hand unless you do this 20 times a day
That's OK! ;) That's why I put it on video, so you can make your own decision. Thank you for watching!
You seldom get both sides even when you hand sharpen unless you use a gauge, and then it takes about twice as long as the machine. It takes me less than a minute to sharpen a bit on the Vevor and that includes the split point.
@@GeorgeGeorge-yb2sz Yep, agreed. Honestly the longer I have this thing in the shop and get used to having it, the more I think that I would never want to give it up lol.
Just looked at the velor site and the Product description sucks. When are these manufactures going to hire people that know ENGLISH to write the manuels and instruction booklets. Some of them are so bad they make no sense.😢
Yeah, that's pretty much par for the course with import tools. I mentioned that in my vid as well. Fortunately, it's pretty simple to figure out how everything works though. I didn't have too much trouble despite the instructions being, "difficult" to follow lol.
Thank you🙂